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I 


CROSSING  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  IN  WINTER.  [See  p.  232. 


THIRTY  YEARS 


OF 

ARMY  LIFE  ON  THE  BORDER. 


COMPRISING 

DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  INDIAN  NOMADS  OF  THE  PLAINS ; 

EXPLORATIONS  OF  NEW  TERRITORY; 

A TRIP  ACROSS  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  IN  THE  WINTER; 

DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THE  HABITS  OF  DIFFERENT  ANIMALS  FOUND  IN  THE 
WEST,  AND  THE  METHODS  OF  HUNTING  THEM ; 

WITH  INCIDENTS  IN  THE  LIFE  OF  DIFFERENT  FRONTIER  MEN, 

&o.,  &o. 


BY  COLONEL  R.  B.  MARCY,  U.  S.  A., 

AUTHOR  OF  “THE  PRAIRIE  TRAVELER.” 


Numerous  JHlustrattons. 


NEW  YORK: 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN  SQUARE. 


1866. 


o 


/ 


?3 

A133 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  sixty-six,  by 

HARPER  & BROTHERS, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District  of 
New  York. 


BOSTON  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 
CHESTNUT  HILL,  MA  02167 


MAY  1 4 1985  - 


INTRODUCTORY. 


In  this  age  of  many  books,  it  is  hardly  possible  that  any 
new  publication  can  need  an  apology  or  an  explanation.  I 
have  keen  persuaded  by  many  friends  that  the  contents  of 
the  book  which  is  herewith  presented  to  the  public  are  not 
without  value  as  records  of  a fast  vanishing  age,  and  as 
truthful  sketches  of  men  of  various  races,  whose  memory 
will  shortly  depend  only  on  romance,  unless  some  one  who 
knew  them  shall  undertake  to  leave  outlines  of  their  pecul- 
iar characteristics. 

More  than  thirty  years  of  service  in  the  United  States 
Army,  a large  portion  of  .the  time  on  the  frontiers,  on  the 
prairies,  or  among  the  far  Western  mountains,  have  given 
me  some  experience  in  the  life  of  the  frontiersman,  as  well 
as  made  me  the  frequent  companion  of  the  hardy  trappers, 
the  pioneers,  the  advance-guards  of  civilization,  while- it  has 
been  necessary  for  me  to  meet  on  either  friendly  or  hostile 
terms  nearly  all  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  the  prairies. 

If  any  excuse  were  needed  for  the  publication  of  sketches 
somewhat  desultory  and  disconnected  as  these  will  prove, 
I am  persuaded  that  excuse  may  be  found  in  the  simple 
fact  that  all  these  subjects  of  my  description — men,  condi- 
tions of  life,  races  of  aboriginal  inhabitants,  and  adventur- 
ous hunters  and  pioneers — are  passing  away.  A few  years 
more,  and  the  prairie  will  be  transformed  into  farms,  the 


X 


INTRODUCTORY. 


mountain  ravines  will  be  the  abodes  of  busy  manufactur- 
ers, the  aboriginal  races  will  have  utterly  disappeared,  and 
the  gigantic  power  of  American  civilization  will  have  taken 
possession  of  the  land  from  the  great  river  of  the  West  to 
the  very  shores  of  the  Pacific.  It  can  not  be  entirely  in 
vain  that  any  one  contributes  that  which  he  knows  from 
personal  experience,  however  little,  to  aid  in  preserving  the 
memory  of  the  people  and  the  customs  of  the  West  in  the 
middle  of  the  nineteenth  century.  The  wild  animals  that 
abound  on  the  great  plains  to-day  will  soon  be  as  unknown 
as  the  Indian  hunters  who  have  for  centuries  pursued  them. 
The  world  is  fast  filling  up.  I trust  I am  not  in  error  when 
I venture  to  place  some  value,  however  small,  on  every 
thing  which  goes  to  form  the  truthful  history  of  a condi- 
tion of  men  incident  to  the  advance  of  civilization  over  the 
continent — a condition  which  forms  peculiar  types  of  char- 
acter, produces  remarkable  developments  of  human  nature 
— a condition,  also,  which  can  hardly  again  exist  on  this  or 
any  other  continent,  and  which  has  therefore  especial  value 
in  the  sum  of  human  history.  This  is  the  only  apology 
which  I have  to  offer  for  the  anecdotes  of  persons  and  the 
sketches  of  frontier  life  which  I have  ventured  to  make  a 
part  of  this  volume.  Such  people  will  probably  not  again 
be  found  in  the  future  life  of  the  race,  and  unless  some  rec- 
ord be  made  of  them,  it  is  by  no  means  certain  that  genera- 
tions to  come  will  not  regard  them  as  solely  the  creatures 
of  fiction,  in  whose  pages  they  have  for  the  most  part  hith- 
erto been  described. 

The  portions  of  the  volume  devoted  to  relations  of  per- 
sonal adventure,  as  well  as  those  which  refer  to  the  gener- 
al characteristics  of  the  Western  country,  to  modes  of  travel 


INTRODUCTORY. 


XI 


and  life  on  the  prairies,  the  advice  I have  given  to  those 
who  may  be  called,  either  in  public  service  or  for  private 
purposes,  to  cross  the  great  plains,  the  accounts  of  hunting, 
and  descriptions  of  Western  game  and  the  methods  of  pur- 
suing and  killing  it — all  these  parts  of  the  volume  are  of- 
fered to  the  public  in  the  hope  that  they  may  have  prac- 
tical value,  and  be  of  public  as  well  as  private  benefit. 


' 


' 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  INDIANS  OF  THE  PLAINS. 

The  Indians  of  the  Plains  not  described  in  Bancroft’s  History. — Different  in 
Habits  from  the  Eastern  Tribes. — First  discovered  by  Coronado. — Simi- 
larity in  Habits  with  the  Arabs. — Pantomimic  Language. — Characteristics 
of  different  Tribes Page  17 


CHAPTER  H. 

COMANCHE  INDIANS. 

Comanche  Indians. — Local  Subdivisions  of  the  Tribe. — Nomads. — Dimin- 
nishing  in  Numbers.  — Fear  of  visiting  the  Whites.  — Courtship. — Poly- 
gamy.— Is-sa-keep. — Receiving  Guests. — Council. — Singular  Custom. — 
Propensity  for  Horse-racing. — Kickapoo  Horse-race. — War  Expeditions. 
— Method  of  Recruiting. — Mexican  Prisoners. — Parker  Family. — Treat- 
ment of  Negroes. — Visit  to  the  Fort. — Mourning  Ceremonies. — Ideas  of 
the  Bible. — Opinion  of  the  Whites. — Medicine  Lodges. — Ideas  of  their  own 
Importance. — Way  to  treat  them. — Belief  in  the  Deity 43 

CHAPTER  111. 

INDIAN  WARFARE. 

Indian  Warfare. — French  Army  in  Algeria. — Turkish  Method  of  Warfare. 
— Tracking  Indians. — Telegraphing  by  Smokes. — Delawares,  Shawnees, 
and  Kickapoos. — Guides  in  the  Great  Desert. — The  Khebir. — Delaware’s 
Idea  of  the  Compass. — Black  Beaver. — Jealousy  of  his  Wife. — Coman- 
che’s Ideas  of  the  Whites. — John  Bushman. — Marriage  Relations. — Jim 
Ned. — Great  Horse-thief. — Comanche  Law. — Juan  Galvan. — Kickapoos 
good  Hunters. — Respect  for  Law 67 

B 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

PUEBLO  INDIANS. 

Pueblo  Indians. — Early  Discovery. — Situations  of  their  Towns. — Moquis. — 
Coronado’s  Expedition. — Visit  to  Santa  Domingo. — Laguna. — Christmas 
Ceremonies. — Church  Services. — Bird  Orchestra. — Dances. — Moqui  Vil- 
lages.— Peculiar  Dances. — Feasting.— Origin  of  the  Moquis. — Marriage 
Ceremony.  — Estufas. — Pottery.  — Extensive  Ruins.  — Large  Houses. — 
Casas  Grandes Page  97 

CHAPTER  V. 

RED  RIVER  EXPEDITION. 

Red  River  Expedition.  — Order. — Early  Efforts  to  explore  it. — Navigable 
Portion. — Copper  Ores.  — New  Ore. — Dr.  Hitchcock’s  Opinion. — Great 
Gypsum  Belt. — Cause  of  bad  Taste  in  the  Water. — Witchita  Mountains. 
— Extent  of  Choctaw  Reservation. — Beautiful  Country. — Visit  ofWitche- 
taws. — Buffaloes. — Comanche  Trails. — Buffalo  Chase. — Panther  killed. — 
Unaccountable  Appearance  of  Water.  — South  Winds. — Encamping. — 
Head  of  North  Fork. — Visit  to  Canadian  River. — Mirage. — Head  of  Salt 
Fork. — Lano-Estacado. — Prairie  Dog  Town. — Leaving  the  Train. — Bad 
Water. — Suffering  from  the  Effects  of  bad  Water. — Reach  the  Head  of 
the  main  Fork  of  Red  River. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Bears. — Remarkable 
Canon 114 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Turning  homeward. — Peculiar  Basin. — Another  Panther  killed. — Witchita 
Mountains. — Mount  Scott. — Buffalo  Chase. — Witchetaw  Villages. — Fine 
Soil. — Reported  Massacre. — Mexican  Prisoners. — Accused  of  Horse-steal- 
ing.— Arrival  at  Fort  Arbuckle. — Anxiety  of  Friends. — Review  of  Char- 
acteristics of  the  Country  passed  over. — Ranges  of  the  Indians 154 

CHAPTER  VII. 

INDIAN  RESERVATIONS. 

Arrival  at  Fort  Belknap. — Troubles  of  the  Small  Tribes  of  Texas. — Jose 
Maria. — Council. — Major  Neighbors. — Wolf  Dance. — Comanche  Visit  to 
the  Tonkawas. — Admiration  for  the  Major’s  Wardrobe. — Enlists  in  a 
War  Expedition. — Little  Witchita  River. — Big  Witchita  River. — Perilous 
Position  of  Major  Neighbors.  — Head  of  Big  Witchita, — Bad  Water. — 
Reach  Brazos  River. — Head>of  the  Brazos. — Abundance  of  Game. — Ke- 
tumsee. — Clear  Fork  of  the  Brazos. — Council. — Location  of  the  Reserva- 
tions.— Summary.  — Double  Mountain  Fork.  — Mesquit  Tree.  — Mesquit 
Gum. — Civilizing  Comanches 170 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

WINTER  EXPEDITION  OYER  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

Winter  Expedition  oyer  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Objects  of  the  Expedition. 
— General  Scott’s  Opinions. — Leaving  Fort  Bridger. — Desertion  of  Indian 
Guide. — Descending  Mountain. — Singular  Corral. — Reach  Grand  River. 
— Ute  Indians. — Commence  the  Ascent  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Snow. 
— Cache  Luggage. — Mules  giving  out  and  dying. — Provisions  consumed. 
— Commence  eating  Mules. — Ptarmigan. — Getting  lost. — New  Guide. — 
Excellent  Conduct  of  the  Soldiers.  — Destitute  Condition.  — Bivouac. — 
Reach  the  Summit  of  the  Mountains. — Send  Messengers  to  Fort  Massa- 
chusetts.— Return  of  the  Messengers. — Joy  of  the  Party. — Mariano. — 
Overeating. — Arrival  at  Fort  Massachusetts. — Arrival  at  Taos. — Compar- 
ative Qualities  of  different  Animals  in  Snow Page  224 

CHAPTER  IX. 

RETURN  TRIP  TO  UTAH. 

Return  Trip  to  Utah. — Route  of  the  March. — Organization  of  the  Party. — 
Order  to  Halt. — Fontaine-qui-bouille. — Herd  of  Elk. — Arrival  of  Re-en- 
forcements.— Terrible  Snow-storm. — Stampede. — Storms. — Platte  River. 
— Denver  City. — Arrival  at  Fort  Bridger.  — Entrance  into  Salt  Lake 
City. — Scarcity  of  Mormons. — Salt  Lake. — Bathing. — Mormon  Industry. 
— Proclamation  by  Brigham  Young. — Mormon  Depredations. — Order  of 
Daniel  H.  Wells. — Interview  with  Captain  Yan  Yliet. — Tone  of  the  Pul- 
pit and  Press. — Benediction  by  Heber  Kimball 251 

CHAPTER  X. 

UNEXPLORED  TERRITORY. 

Unexplored  Territory. — Lack  of  geographical  Information  in  1849. — Wagon 
Road  from  Fort  Smith. — New  Road  from  Dona  Ana. — Great  Canon  of 
the  Colorado. — Visit  of  the  Spaniards. — Mr.  Kern’s  Opinions. — Tall  Race 
of  Men. — Height  of  the  Canon. — Attempts  to  explore  it. — Splendid  Scen- 
ery. — Mineral  Considerations.  — Method  for  exploring  the  Canon  sug- 
gested  276 


CHAPTER  XI. 

HUNTING. 

Hunting. — Its  Benefits  to  the  Soldier. — Disposition  of  Fire-arms. — Nama- 
quas.  — Tracking.  — Horse  Tracks.  — Elk  Hunt.  — Faculties  of  Indians. 
— Deer  Hunting. — Rifles. — Antelope. — Bear. — Lassoing  Grizzlies. — Am- 
ateur Sportsman. — Big-Horn. — Buffalo. — Rapidly  diminishing. — H.  H. 
Sibley’s  Remarks.  — Range  of  the  Buffalo.  — Chasing  on  Horseback.  — 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Stalking.— Winter  Hun  ting. —The  Beaver.— The  Prairie  Dog.— Hints  to 
Sportsmen Page  283 

CHAPTER  XII. 

PIONEERS  OF  THE  WEST. 

Pioneers  of  the  West. — Frontier  Settlers. — Night  at  a Log  Cabin.— Effects 
of  drinking  Mint  Juleps. — A young  Cadet’s  Arrival  at  West  Point. — Prai- 
rie Belle. — Texas  Surveyor. — Dinner  in  Arkansas. — Night  in  Arkansas. 
— New  Use  of  Tea. — Yankee  Curiosity  illustrated. — Propensity  for  roam- 
ing.— Meeting  a Fellow-statesman  in  Mexico. — An  old  Acquaintance. — 
Southern  Curiosity. — Virginia  Hospitality.  — Perversion  of  the  English 
Language. — Arrival  in  the  Settlements  in  1849. — A Texas  Clergyman’s 
Experience. — Frontier  Settlers  of  Texas. — Major  Neighbors’s  Experience. 
— The  Six-man  Team. — Texas  Volunteers. — Recuperative  Character  of 
the  Frontiersman  illustrated 356 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

MOUNTAINEERS. 

Mountaineers. —Jim  Bridger.  — His  Troubles  with  the  “Danites.” — Sir 
George  Gore. — Tim  Goodale  and  Jim  Baker. — Bear  Fight. — Singular 
Duel. — Mariano. — Mr.  Clyburn. — His  Adventures  in  the  Mountains. — 
His  Return  to  the  Settlements. — Narrow  Escape  on  Rock  River. — Indian 
Law 399 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

CAPTAIN  MARTIN  SCOTT. 

Captain  Martin  Scott. — The  Coon  Story. — The  Bear-hunter. — The  Horse- 
race.— Courting  Days. — Rifle  and  Pistol  Shooting. — His  Duel. — Expedi- 
tion with  Explorers. — Hunting  in  Texas. — Wonderful  Dog. — “Tally 
Ho  !” — Return  Home  to  Bennington. — His  Death 424 


THIRTY  YEARS  OF 
ARMY  LIFE  ON ‘THE  BORDER. 


CHAPTER  I. 

•THE  INDIANS  OF  THE  PLAINS. 

The  Indians  of  the  Plains  not  described  in  Bancroft’s  History. — Different  in 
Habits  from  the  Eastern  Tribes. — First  discovered  by  Coronado. — Simi- 
larity in  Habits  with  the  Arabs. — Pantomimic  Language. — Characteristics 
of  different  Tribes. 

In  the  third  volume  of  Bancroft’s  History  of  the  United 
States  may  be  found  a very  circumstantial,  comprehensive, 
and  reliable  account  of  the  aborigines,  who,  from  the  time 
of  the  advent  of  Europeans,  have  inhabited  that  portion  of 
our  territory  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi  Biver,  and  the 
author,  in  this  connection,  has  presented  many  highly  in- 
teresting facts  relative  to  their  habits,  languages,  institu- 
tions, and  religions ; but,  with  the  exception  of  a brief  allu- 
sion to  the  partially  civilized  eastern  Sioux  or  Dacotahs, 
he  as  yet  has  said  nothing  concerning  the  Comanche,  Kio- 
way,  Cheyenne,  and  other  numerous  and  warlike  tribes 
that  range  over  the  great  plains  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

Several  years’  service  in  the  district  of  country  frequent- 
ed by  this  peculiar  type  of  the  Indian  race  has  frequently 
thrown  me  in  contact  with  different  tribes,  and  thereby  af- 
forded me  good  opportunities  for  observing  their  peculiari- 
ties and  habits,  and  for  collecting  the  facts  which  follow. 

Whatever  common  anatomical  or  phrenological  charac- 
teristics physiologists  may  have  detected  in  the  skulls  of 
the  great  families  of  the  Algonquin,  Iroquois,  Cherokee,  or 

B* 


18 


DISCOVERY  OF  THE  PRAIRIE  INDIANS. 


Catawba  tribes,  and  those  of  the  natives  on  the  Pacific 
Coast,  yet  between  the  habits,  languages,  and  institutions 
of  the  Red  Men  who  roam  over  the  Plains,  and  those  of  the 
Indians  so  elaborately  described  by  our  distinguished  histo- 
rian, there  exists  as  wide  a contrast  as  can  be  found  be- 
tween the  Bedouins  of  the  desert  and  the  denizens  of  Lon- 
don, Paris,  or  New  York. 

The  earliest  information  we  have  of  the  prairie  tribes  is 
contained  in  Castenada’s  account  of  the  daring  expedition 
of  Coronado,  which  was  sent  out  from  Cicuya,  New  Mexico, 
in  search  of  the  “ golden  city”  of  Quivera,  during  the  sum- 
mer of  1541. 

After  marching  for  several  days,  the  party  encountered 
“an  Arab  people  called  Querechos , who  lived  in  buffalo- 
skin  tents,  and  subsisted  exclusively  on  the  raw  flesh  of 
those  animals.”  Continuing  their  march  in  an  easterly  di- 
rection, the  Spaniards  reached  extensive  plains,  covered 
with  countless  herds  of  buffalo  and  their  erratic  enemies, 
the  Indian  nomads  of  the  prairies.  These  people  had  no 
horses  then,  but  they  possessed  great  numbers  of  dogs, 
which  were  used  to  transport  their  luggage  as  they  follow- 
ed the  migrations  of  the  buffalo.  They  were  a mild,  peace- 
able race  of  people,  who  extended  to  the  Spaniards  the 
warmest  hospitality  and  friendship,  and  they  were  not  ad- 
dicted to  those  horrible  practices  which  prevailed  among 
some  of  the  Indians  in  New  Mexico  and  Sonora.  They 
“jerked”  or  dried  the  meat,  and  made  the  pemmican,  at 
that  early  period,  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  it  is  pre- 
pared at  the  present  day  by  the  half-breeds  upon  the  Red 
River  of  the  North,  and  they  still  continue  to  use  the  dogs 
as  pack  animals. 

From  this  it  appears  that  the  Indians  seen  by  the  Spanish 
explorers  were  the  same  type  of  aborigines  as  are  now  found 
roaming  over  the  vast  prairies  of  North  America,  and  with 


HABITS  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


19 


the  exception  of  the  changes  incident  to  the  introduction 
of  the  horse,  their  habits  and  manner  of  living  in  the  six- 
teenth century  were  precisely  the  same  as  they  are  at  the 
present  moment.  The  whimsical  caprices  of  fashion  hold 
no  tyrannical  sway  over  their  beaux  and  belles.  They 
are  not  obliged  to  send  three  thousand  miles  to  ascertain 
what  particular  colored  ribbon  would  be  authorized  to 
adorn  a bonnet  during  the  succeeding  month,  or  what  spe- 
cial style  of  neck-tie  would  meet  the  approbation  of  the 
beau  monde  in  Paris.  The  material  and  cut  of  their  gar- 
ments to-day  are  precisely  the  same  as  they  were  three 
hundred  years  ago ; indeed,  so  uniform  and  permanent  is 
their  method  of  conducting  all  the  affairs  of  life,  that  an 
expert  has  only  to  examine  the  remains  of  an  old  camp- 
fire, or  even  a moccasin,  in  order  to  determine  what  partic- 
ular tribe  of  Indians  passed  that  way. 

The  habits  of  all  the  prairie  tribes  assimilate  very  closely 
to  each  other  in  some  respects,  as,  for  example,  they  all  fol- 
low the  buffaloes ; use  the  bow  and  arrow,  lance  and  shield ; 
take  the  war-path,  and  fight  their  battles  mounted  on  horse- 
back, in  the  open  prairie;  transport  their  lodges  and  all 
their  worldly  effects  wherever  they  go ; never  till  the 
ground,  but  subsist  exclusively  on  fresh-meat  diet.  All 
use  the  sweat  or  medicine  lodges,  and  religiously  believe  in 
the  efficacy  of  incantations  and  jugglery  in  curing  diseases, 
preparing  for  war,  the  chase,  etc.  On  the  contrary,  the  na- 
tives of  the  Eastern  States,  from  the  time  of  the  first  dis- 
covery of  the  country,  lived  in  permanent  villages,  where 
they  cultivated  fields  of  corn,  and  possessed  strong  attach- 
ment for  their  ancestral  abodes  and  sepulchres.  Seldom 
wandering  far  from  home,  they  did  not  use  horses,  but  al- 
ways made  their  war  and  hunting  expeditions  on  foot,  and 
sought  the  cover  of  trees  on  going  into  action. 

In  their  treatment  of  prisoners  of  war  there  has  been 


20 


ARABS  AND  PRAIRIE  INDIANS. 


also  a very  marked  dissimilarity.  The  Eastern  aborigines, 
although  they  put  their  victims  to  tortures  of  the  most  ap- 
palling character,  seldom,  if  ever,  violated  the  chastity  of 
th$  females ; while,  on  the  contrary,  the  prairie  Indians  do 
not  put  their  prisoners  to  death  by  prolonged  tortures,  but 
invariably  compel  the  females  to  submit  to  their  lewd  em- 
braces. I have  known  of  several  well-authenticated  in- 
stances where  their  barbarous  treatment  of  females  has 
proved  this  conclusively. 

As  there  seems  to  be  a most  striking  physical  similitude 
between  the  deserts  of  Arabia,  and  the  steppes  of  Central 
Asia,  and  the  prairie  mesas  of  our  own  country,  a marked 
resemblance  is  also  observed  in  the  habits  and  customs  of 
the  respective  inhabitants.  The  Arabs  of  the  desert,  the 
Tartar  tribes,  and  the  aboriginal  occupants  of  the  prairies, 
are  alike  wanderers,  having  no  permanent  abiding-places, 
transporting  their  lodges  or  tents  wherever  they  go,  and 
where  these  are  pitched  there  are  their  homes.  They  alike 
permit  no  authorities  to  control  them  but  such  as  receive 
the  unanimous  sanction  of  the  masses,  and  the  rule  of  their 
leaders  is  guided  by  the  counsels  of  their  wise  old  men,  who 
in  many  instances  allay  dissensions  and  curb  the  impetuos- 
ity of  ambitious  younger  warriors,  whose  thirst  for  fame 
would  otherwise  involve  the  nation  in  protracted  wars. 
Their  government  is  essentially  patriarchal,  guided  by  wise 
and  fraternal  councils.  They  are  insensible  to  the  wants 
and  luxuries  of  civilization,  and  know  neither  poverty  nor 
riches,  vice  or  virtue,  and  are  alike  exempt  from  the  de- 
plorable vicissitudes  of  fortune.  Theirs  is  a happy  state 
of  social  equality,  which  knows  not  the  perplexities  of  po- 
litical ambition  or  the  crimes  of  avarice.  They  are  alike 
the  most  expert  horsemen  in  the  world,  and  possess  the 
same  fond  attachment  for  the  animal.  I once  made  an  ef- 
fort to  purchase  a favorite  horse  from  a chief  of  one  of  the 


BEDOUIN  HORSE. 


21 


bands  of  the  Southern  Comanches  (Se-na-co),  and  offered 
him  a large  price,  but  he  could  not  be  persuaded  to  part 
with  him.  He  said  the  animal  was  one  of  the  fleetest  in 
their  possession,  and  if  he  were  to  sell  him  it  would  prove 
a calamity  to  his  whole  band,  as  it  often  required  all  the 
speed  of  this  animal  to  insure  success  in  the  buffalo  chase ; 
that  his  loss  would  be  felt  by  all  his  people,  and  he  would 
be  regarded  as  very  foolish ; moreover,  he  said  (patting  his 
favorite  on  the  neck),  “I  love  him  very  much.” 

The  like  estimation  in  which  the  horse  is  held  among  the 
Eastern  nomads  is  illustrated  in  a very  interesting  story 
related  by  Mr.  W.  C.  Prime  in  his  “ Boat  Life  in  Egypt  and 
Nubia.”  He  says : “ Speaking  of  horses  as  we  rode  along, 
one  of  the  governor’s  officers  told  me  a story  of  an  old  sheik 
of  the  Bedouins  that  I have  seen  in  print  in  two  or  three 
forms,  but  never  precisely  in  this : 

“ He  was  old  and  poor.  The  latter  virtue  is  common 
to  his  race.  He  owned  a tent,  a Nubian  slave,  and  a mare ; 
nothing  else.  The  mare  was  the  fleetest  animal  on  the  des- 
ert. From  the  Nile  to  the  Euphrates  fame  of  this  animal 
had  gone  out,  and  kings  had  sought  in  vain  to  own  her. 
The  love  of  the  Bedouin  for  his  horse  is  not  that  fabled  af- 
fection that  we  read  of  in  books.  This  love  is  the  same  af- 
fection that  an  American  nabob  has  for  his  gold,  or  rather 
that  a poor  laborer  has  for  his  wages.  His  horse  is  his  life. 
He  can  rob,  plunder,  kill,  and  destroy  ad  libitum  if  he  have 
a fleet  steed.  If  he  have  none,  he  can  do  nothing,  but  is  the 
prey  of  every  one  who  has.  Acquisition  is  a prominent 
feature  of  Arab  character,  but  accumulation  is  not  found  in 
the  brain  of  a son  of  Ishmael.  The  reason  is  obvious.  If 
he  have  wealth  he  has  nowhere  to  keep  it.  He  would  be 
robbed  in  the  night.  He  would,  indeed,  have  no  desire  to 
keep  it;  for  the  Bedouin  who  murders  you  for  a shawl,  or 
a belt,  or  some  gay  trapping,  will  give  it  away  the  next  day. 


22 


NUBIAN  SLAVE. 


“Living  this  wandering  life,  the  old  sheik  was  rich  in 
this  one  mare,  which  was  acknowledged  to  be  the  fleetest 
horse  in  Arabia. 

“Ibrahim  Pasha  wished  the  animal,  as  his  father  had 
wished  before  him.  He  sent  various  offers  to'  the  old 
sheik,  but  in  vain.  At  length  he  sent  a deputation,  with 
five  hundred  purses  (a  purse  is  five  pounds),  and  the  old 
man  laughed  at  them. 

“ ‘Then,’  said  Ibrahim  Pasha,  ‘I  will  take  your  mare.’ 

« ‘ Try  it.’ 

“ He  sent  a regiment  into  the  desert,  and  the  sheik  rode 
around  them,  and  laughed  at  them,  and  the  regiment  came 
home. 

“ At  last  the  sheik  died  from  a wound  received  in  a fray 
with  a*  neighboring  tribe.  Dying,  he  gave  to  his  Nubian 
slave  all  that  he  had — this  priceless  mare — and  the  duties 
of  the  blood  revenge. 

“The  faithful  slave  accepted  both,  and  has  ever  since 
been  the  terror  of  the  Eastern  desert.  Yearly  he  comes 
down  like  a hawk  on  the  tents  of  that  devoted  tribe,  and 
leaves  a ball  or  a lance  in  man  or  woman.  No  amount  of 
blood  satisfies  his  revenge;  and  the  mare  and  the  black 
rider  are  as  celebrated  in  Arabia  as  the  wild  huntsman  in 
European  forests,  and  much  better  known.” 

The  only  property  of  these  people,  with  the  exception  of 
a few  articles  belonging  to  their  domestic  economy,  consists 
entirely  in  horses  and  mules,  of  which  they  possess  great 
numbers.  These  are  mostly  pillaged  from  the  Mexicans, 
as  is  evident  from  the  brand  which  is  found  upon  them. 
The  most  successful  horse-thieves  among  them  own  from 
fifty  to  two  hundred  animals. 

In  their  political  and  domestic  -relations  there  is  also  a 
similarity  to  the  Old  World  nomads.  They  are  governed 
by  a chief,  the  tenure  of  whose  office  is  hereditary  so  long 


WAR  EXPEDITIONS. 


23 


as  his  administration  meets  the  approbation  of  his  follow- 
ers. He  leads  them  to  war,  and  presides  at  their  delibera- 
tions in  council ; but  should  he  disgrace  himself  by  any  act 
of  cowardice  or  maladministration,  they  do  not  hesitate  to 
depose  him  and  place  a more  competent  man  in  his  stead. 
Their  laws  are  such  as  are  adapted  to  their  peculiar  situa- 
tion, and  are  sanctioned  by  the  voice  of  the  people.  Their 
execution  is  vested  in  the  subordinate  chiefs,  or  captains,  as 
they  are  called,  and  they  are  promptly  and  rigidly  enforced. 
In  respect  to  the  rights  of  property,  their  code  is  strictly 
Spartan.  They  are  perhaps  as  arrant  freebooters  as  can  be 
found  upon  the  face  of  the  earth ; and  they  regard  stealing 
from  strangers  as  perfectly  legitimate  and  honorable,  and: 
that  man  who  has  been  most  successful  in  this  is  the  most 
highly  honored  by  his  tribe ; indeed,  a young  man  who 
has  not  made  one  or  more  of  these  expeditions  into  Mexico 
is  held  in  but  little  reputa  In  evidence  of  this,  I was  told 
by  an  old  chief  of  the  Northern  Comanches,  called  Is-sa- 
keep,  that  he  was  the  father  of  four  sons,  who  he  said  were 
as  fine  young  men  as  could  be  found ; that  they  were  a 
great  source  of  comfort  to  him  in  his  old  age,  and  could 
steal  more  horses  than  any  young  men  in  his  band. 

As  these  forays  are  often  attended  with  much  toil  and 
danger,  they  are  called  u war  expeditions.”  It  not  unfre- 
quently  happens  that  but  six  or  eight  young  men  set  out 
upon  one  of  these  adventures,  and  the  only  outfit  each  re- 
quires is  a horse,  with  the  war  equipments,  consisting  of 
the  bow  and  arrows,  lance  and  shield,  with  occasionally  a 
gun.  Thus  prepared,,  they  set  out  upon  a journey  of  a 
thousand  miles  or  more,  through  a perfectly  wild  and  deso- 
late country,  dependent  for  subsistence  wholly  upon  such 
game  as  they  may  chance  to  find.  They  make  their  way 
to  the  northern  provinces  of  Mexico,  where  they  lie  in  wait 
near  some  hacienda  until  a favorable  opportunity  offers  to 


24 


BOW  AND  ARROW. 


sweep  down  upon  a solitary  herdsman,  and,  with  the  most 
terrific  yells,  drive  before  them  all  the  animals  they  desire. 
Wo  to  the  panic-stricken  ranchero  who  fails  to  make  a 
precipitate  retreat,  as  they  invariably  kill  such  men  as  of- 
fer the  slightest  impediment  to  their  operations,  and  take 
women  and  children  prisoners,  whom  they  hold  in  bondage 
of  the  most  servile  character.  They  are  sometimes  absent 
from  their  tribes  two  years  or  more  before  their  success 
is  sufficient  to  justify  their  returning  with  credit  to  them- 
selves. 

The  use  of  the  bow,  which  is  the  favorite  arm  and  con- 
stant appendage  of  the  prairie  Indian,  and  which  he  makes 
use  of  exclusively  in  hunting  the  buffalo,  is  taught  the  boys 
at  a very  early  age ; and  by  constant  and  careful  practice, 
they  acquire  a degree  of  proficiency  in  the  art  that  renders 
them,  when  grown  up  to  manhood,  formidable  in  war,  as 
well  as  successful  in  the  chase.  Their  bows  are  made  of 
the  tough  and  -elastic  wood  of  the  “ bois  d’arc,”  or  Osage 
orange  (Maclura  aurantiaca ),  strengthened  and  re-enforced 
with  the  sinews  of  the  deer  wrapped  firmly  around  them, 
and  strung  with  a cord  made  of  the  same  material.  They 
are  not  more  than  one  half  the  length  of  the  old  English 
long-bow,  which  was  said  to  have  been  sixteen  hands’ 
breadth  in  length.  The  arrows  are  twenty  inches  long,  of 
flexible  wood,  with  a triangular  point  of  iron  at  one  end, 
and  two  feathers,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  at 
the  opposite  extremity.  At  short  distances  the  bow,  in  the 
hands  of  the  Indian,  is  effective,  and  frequently  throws  the 
arrow  entirely  through  the  huge  carcass  of  the  buffalo.  In 
using  this  instrument,  the  Indian  warrior  protects  himself 
from  the  missiles  of  an  enemy  with  a shield  of  circular 
form,  covered  with  two  thicknesses  of  hard,  undressed  buf- 
falo hide,  separated  by  a space  of  about  an  inch,  which  is 
stuffed  with  hair;  this  is  fastened  to  the  left  arm  by  two 


INDIAN  WOMEN. 


25 


bands,  in  such  a manner  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  free 
use  of  the  hand,  and  offers  such  resistance  that  a rifle-ball 
will  not  penetrate  it  unless  it  strikes  perpendicular  to  the 
surface.  They  also  make  use  of  a war-club,  made  by  bend- 
ing a withe  around  a hard  stone  of  about  two  pounds 
weight,  which  has  been  previously  prepared  with  a groove 
in  which  the  withe  fits,  and  is  thereby  prevented  from  slip- 
ping off.  The  handle  is  about  fourteen  inches  long,  and 
bound  with  buffalo  hide. 

The  men,  are  about  the  medium  stature,  with  bright,  cop- 
per-colored complexions  and  intelligent  countenances,  in 
many  instances  with  aquiline  noses,  thin  lips,  black  eyes 
and  hair,  with  but  little  beard.  They  never  cut  the  hair, 
but  wear  it  of  very  great  length,  and  ornament  it  upon  state 
occasions  with  silver  and  beads.  Their  dress  consists  of 
leggins  and  moccasins,  with  a cloth  wrapped  around  the 
loins.  The  body  is  generally  naked* above  the  middle,  ex- 
cept when  covered  with  the  buffalo  robe,  which  is  a con- 
stant appendage  to  their  wardrobe.  The  women  are  short, 
with  crooked  legs,  and  are  obliged  to  crop  their  hair  close 
to  their  heads.  They  wear,  in  addition  ta  the  leggins  and 
moccasins,  a skirt  of  dressed  deer-skin.  They  also  tattoo 
their  faces  and  breasts,  and  are  far  from  being  as  good  look- 
ing as  the  men. 

Notwithstanding  these  people  are  hospitable  and  kind 
to  strangers,  and  apparently  amiable  in  their  dispositions, 
yet,  when  a warrior  conceives  himself  injured,  his  thirst 
for  revenge  knows  no  satiety.  Grave  and  dignified  in  his 
deportment,  and  priding  himself  upon  his  coolness  of  tem- 
per and  the  control  of  his  passions,  yet,  when  once  pro- 
voked, he,  like  the  majority  of  his  race,  is  implacable  and 
unrelenting ; an  affront  is  laid  up  and  cherished  in  l\is 
breast,  and  nothing  can  efface  it  from  his  mind  until  ample 
reparation  has  been  made.  He  has  no  idea  of  forgiveness : 


26 


INDIAN  TOILET. 


the  insult  must  be  atoned  for  by  blood.  With  other  tribes, 
quarrels  can  often  be  settled  by  presents  to  the  injured 
party ; but  with  the  prairie  Indians,  the  law  of  equity  is 
such  that  no  reconciliation  can  take  place  until  the  reproach 
is  wiped  out  with  the  blood  of  their  enemy.  They  make 
no  use  of  money  except  for  ornaments.  Like  other  tribes, 
they  are  fond  of  decking  themselves  with  paint,  beads,  and 
feathers ; and  the  young  warrior  often  spends  more  time  at 
his  toilet  than  the  most  conceited  coxcomb  that  can  be  found 
in  civilized  life.  Bright  red  and  blue  are  their  favorite  col- 
ors ; and  vermilion  is  an  important  article  in  the  stock  of 
goods  of  one  of  their  traders.  This  they  always  carry  about 
their  persons;  and  whenever  they  expect  to  meet  stran- 
gers, they  always  (provided  they  have  time)  make  their 
toilet  with  care,  and  paint  their  faces.  Some  few  of  their 
chiefs  who  have  visited  their  Great  Father  at  Washington 
have  returned  strongly  impressed  with  the  numerical  pow- 
er and  prosperity  of  the  whites;  but  the  great  majority  of 
them,  being  entirely  ignorant  of  every  thing  that  relates  to 
us,  and  a portion  of  them  having  never  even  seen  a white 
man,  believe  the  prairie  Indians  to  be  the  most  powerful 
people  in  existence ; and  the  relation  of  facts  which  conflict 
with  this  notion,  by  their  own  people,  to  the  masses  of  the 
tribes  at  their  prairie  firesides,  only  subjects  the  narrator  to 
ridicule,  and  he  is  set  down  as' one  whose  brain  has  been 
turned  by  the  necromancy  of  the  pale-faces,  and  is  thence- 
forth regarded  as  wholly  unworthy  of  confidence. 

The  Northern  and  Middle  Comanches,  as  well  as  the  Ki- 
oways,  Cheyennes,  Sioux,  and  other  tribes,  subsist  almost 
exclusively  upon  the  flesh  of  the  buffalo,  and  are  known 
among  the  Indians  as  “buffalo  eaters;”  and  they  are  gen- 
erally found  upon  the  trails  of  those  animals,  migrating 
with  them  from  place  to  place,  as  the  seasons  come  around, 
over  those  vast  and  inhospitable  plains  of  the  West,  which 


I 


/ 


HEALTH  OF  THE  PRAIRIES.  27 

are,  for  the  most  part,  not  susceptible  of  cultivation,  and 
seem  destined  in  the  future,  as  in  the  past,  to  be  the  abode 
of  these  wandering  savages.  This  barren  district,  however, 
exhibits  one  characteristic  which  compensates  for  many  of 
its  asperities,  as,  perhaps,  no  part  of  the  habitable  globe  is 
more  favorable  to  health  and  the  continuation  of  human  . 
existence  than  this.  Free  from  marshes,  stagnant  water, 
great  bodies  of  timber,  and  all  other  sources  of  poisonous 
malaria,  and  open  to  every  wind  that  blows,  this  immense 
grassy  expanse  is  purged  from  impurities  of  every  kind, 
and  the  air  imparts  a force  and  vigor  to  the  body  and  mind 
which  repays  the  occupant  in  a great  measure  for  his  de- 
privations. Nature,  which  almost  every  where  exhibits 
some  compensation  to  man  for  great  hardships,  has  here 
conferred  upon  him  health,  the  first  and  best  of  her  gifts. 
It  is  a fact  worthy  of  remark  that  man,  in  whatever  situa- 
tion he  may  be  placed,  is  influenced  in  his  modes  of  exist- 
ence, his  physical  and  moral  condition,  by  the  natural  re- 
sources of  climate,  soil,  and  other  circumstances  around  him, 
over  the  operations  of  which  he  has  no  control.  Fortunate- 
ly, such  is  the  flexibility  of  his  nature  that  he  soon  learns 
to  adapt  himself  to  the  hardest  and  most  untoward  circum- 
stances, and,  indeed,  ultimately  becomes  not  only  reconciled 
to  his  lot,  but  persuades  himself  that  his  condition  is  far 
preferable  to  that  of  most  others. 

The  example  of  our  Western -border  settlers  is  illustra- 
tive of  this  fact,  as  they  continue  to  move  farther  and  far- 
ther west  as  the  settlements  encroach  upon  them,  prefer- 
ring a life  of  dangerous  adventure  and  solitude  to  personal 
security  and  the  comforts  and  enjoyments  of  society;  and 
what  was  at  first  necessity  to  them  becomes  in  time  a 
source  of  excitement  and  pleasure. 

The  nomadic  Indian  of  the  prairies  demonstrates  the  po- 
sition still  more  forcibly ; free  as  the  boundless  plains  over 


28 


LASSOING  ANTELOPE.  * 


which  he  roams,  he  neither  knows  nor  wants  any  luxuries 
beyond  what  he  finds  in  the  buffalo  or  the  deer  around 
him.  These  serve  him  with  food,  clothing,  and' a covering 
for  his  lodge,  and  he  sighs  not  for  the  titles  and  distinctions 
which  occupy  the  thoughts  and  engage  the  energies  of  civil- 
ized man.  His  only  ambition  consists  in  being  able  to  cope 
successfully  with  his  enemy  in  war,  and  in  managing  his 
steed  with  unfailing  adroitness.  He  is  in  the  saddle  from 
boyhood  to  old  age,  and  his  favorite  horse  is  his  constant 
companion.  It  is  when  mounted  that  the  prairie  warrior 
exhibits  himself  to  the  best  advantage ; here  he  is  at  home, 
and  his  skill  in  various  manoeuvres  which  he  makes  avail- 
able in  battle — such  as  throwing  himself  entirely  upon  one 
side  of  his  horse,  and  discharging  his  arrows  with  great  ra- 
pidity toward  the  opposite  side  from  beneath  4he  animal’s 
neck  while  he  is  at  full  speed — is  truly  astonishing.  Many 
of  the  women  are  equally  expert,  a‘s  equestrians,  with  the 
men.  They  ride  upon  the  same  saddles  and  in  the  same 
manner,  with  a leg  upon  each  side  of  the  horse.  As  an 
example  of  their  skill  in  horsemanship,  two  young  women 
of  one  of  the  bands  of  the  Northern  Comanches,  while  we 
w.ere  encamped  near  them,  upon  seeing  some  antelopes  at 
a distance  from  their  camp,  mounted  horses,  and,  with  las- 
sos in  their  hands,  set  off  at  full  speed  in  pursuit  of  this 
fleetest  inhabitant  of  the  plains.  After  pursuing  them  for 
some  distance,  and  taking  all  the  advantages  which  their  cir- 
cuitous course  permitted,  they  finally  came  near  them,  and, 
throwing  the  lasso  with  unerring  precision,  secured  each 
an  animal,  and  brought  it  back  in  triumph  to  the  camp. 
Every  warrior  has  his  war-horse,  which  is  the  fleetest  that 
can  be  obtained,  and  he  prizes  him  more  highly  than  any 
thing  else  in  his  possession,  and  it  is  seldom  that  he  can  be 
induced  to  part  with  him  at  any  price.  He  never  mounts 
him  except  when  going  into  battle,  the  buffalo  chase,  or 


GUARD  DETAILS. 


29 


upon  state  occasions.  On  his  return  from  an  excursion  he 
is  met  at  the  door  of  his  lodge  by  one  of  his  wives,  who 
takes  his  horse  and  attends  to  its  wants  with  the  utmost 
care.  The  prairie  warrior  performs  no  menial  labor;  his 
only  occupation  is  in  war  and  the  chase.  His  wives,  who 
are  but  little  dearer  to  him  than  his  horse,  perform  all  the 
drudgery.  He  follows  the  chase,  he  smokes  his  pipe,  he 
eats  and  sleeps ; and  thus  he  passes  his  time,  and  in  his 
own  estimation  he  is  the  most  lordly  and  independent  sov- 
ereign in  the  universe. 

The  mode  of  life  of  the  prairie  tribes,  owing  to  their  un- 
settled and  wandering  habits,  is  such  as  to  render  their  con- 
dition one  of  constant  danger  and  apprehension.  The  se- 
curity of  their  numerous  animals  from  the  encroachments 
of  their  enemies,  and  their  constant  liability  to  attacks, 
make  it  imperatively  necessary  for  them  to  be  at  all  times 
upon  the  alert.  Their  details  for  herdsmen  are  made  with 
as  much  regularity  as  the  guard  details  at  a military  post ; 
and  even  in  times  of  the  most  profound  peace,  they  guard 
their  animals  both  night  and  day,  while  scouts  are  often 
patrolling  upon  the  adjoining  heights  to  give  notice  of  the 
approach  of  strangers,  when  their  animals  are  hurried  to  a 
place  of  security,  and  every  thing  made  ready  for  defense. 
The  manner  in  which  they  salute  a stranger  is  somewhat 
peculiar,  as  my  own  reception  at  one  of  their  encampments 
will  show.  The  chief  at  this  encampment  was  a very  cor- 
pulent old  man,  with  exceedingly  scanty  attire,  who,  imme- 
diately on  our  approach,  declared  himself  a great  friend  of 
the  Americans,  and  persisted  in  giving  me  evidence  of  his 
sincerity  by  an  embrace,  which,  to  please  him,  I forced  my- 
self to  submit  to,  although  it  was  far  from  agreeable  to  my 
own  feelings.  Seizing  me  in  his  brawny  arms  while  we 
were  yet  in  the  saddle,  and  laying  his  greasy  head  upon 
my  shoulder,  he  inflicted  upon  me  a most  bruin -like 

C* 


30 


INDIAN  RECEPTIONS. 


squeeze,  which  I endured  with  a degree  of  patient  forti- 
tude worthy  of  the  occasion ; and  I was  consoling  myself 
upon  the  completion  of  the  salutation,  when  the  savage 
again  seized  me  in  his  arms,  and  I was  doomed  to  another 
similar  torture,  with  his  head  on  my  other  shoulder,  while 
at  the  same  time  he  rubbed  his  greasy  face  against  mine  in 
the  most  affectionate  manner ; all  of  which  proceeding,  he 
gave  me  to  understand,  was  to  be  regarded  as  a most  dis- 
tinguished and  signal  mark  of  affection  for  the  American 
people  in  general,  whom,  as  he  expressed  it,  he  loved  so 
much  that  it  almost  broke  his  heart ; and  in  particular  for 
myself,  who,  as  their  representative,  can  bear  testimony  to 
the  strength  of  his  attachment.  On  leaving  his  camp,  the 
chief  shook  me  heartily  by  the  hand,  telling  me  at  the  same 
time  that  he  was  not  a Comanche,  but  an  American ; and 
as  I did  not  feel  disposed  to  be  outdone  in  politeness  by  an 
Indian,  I replied  in  the  same  spirit  that  there  was  not  a 
drop  of  Anglo-Saxon  blood  in  my  veins,  but  that  I was 
wholly  and  absolutely  a Comanche,  at  which  he  seemed  de- 
lighted, duly  understanding  and  appreciating  the  compli- 
ment. These  people  are  hospitable  and  kind  to  all  with 
whom  they  are  not  at  war ; and  on  the  arrival  of  a stranger 
at  their  camps  a lodge  is  prepared  for  him,  and  he  is  enter- 
tained as  long  as  he  chooses  to  remain  among  them.  They 
are  also  kind  and  affectionate  to  each  other,  and  as  long  as 
any  thing  comestible  remains  in  the  camp,  all  are  permitted 
to  share  alike;  but  with  these  exceptions,  they  are  pos- 
sessed of  but  few  virtues.  Polygamy  is  sanctioned,  and  is 
very  common  among  them,  every  man  being  allowed  as 
many  wives  as  he  can  support. 

A few  years  ago  the  Comanches  (for  what  reason  I could 
not  learn)  took  an  inveterate  dislike  to  the  negroes,  and 
massacred  several  small  parties  of  those  who  attempted  to 
escape  from  the  Serninoles  and  cross  the  Plains  for  the  pur- 


HOSTILITY  TO  NEGROES. 


31 


pose  of  joining  Wild  Cat  upon  the  Rio  Grande.  Upon  in 
quiring  of  them  the  cause  of  their  hostility  to  the  blacks, 
they  replied  that  it  was  because  they  were  slaves  to  the 
whites ; that  they  were  sorry  for  them.  I suspect,  howev- 
er, that  they  were  actuated  by  other  motives  than  they 
cared  about  acknowledging,  and  that  instead  of  wishing  to 
better  their  condition  by  sending  them  to  another  world, 
where  they  would  be  released  from  the  fetters  of  bondage, 
they  were  apprehensive,  if  they  permitted  them  to  pass 
quietly,  that  in  time  Wild  Cat’s  followers  upon  the  Rio 
Grande  would  augment  to  such  a degree  that  he  would  in- 
terfere with  their  marauding  operations  along  the  Mexican 
borders.  These  people,  who  are  so  extremely  jealous  of 
their  own  freedom  that  they  will  often  commit  suicide  rath- 
er than  be  taken  prisoners,  are  the  more  prone  to  enslave 
others,  and  this  dominant  principle  is  carried  to  the  great- 
est extreme  so  far  as  regards  their  women.  A beast  of 
burden  and  a slave  to  the  will  of  her  brutal  master,  yet, 
strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  woman  seems  contented  with 
her  lot,  and  submits  to  her  fate  without  a murmur.  The 
hardships  imposed  upon  the  females  are  most  severe  and 
cruel.  The  distance  of  rank  and  consideration  which  ex- 
ists between  the  black  slave  and  his  master  is  not  greater 
than  between  the  prairie  warrior  and  his  wife.  Every  de- 
grading office  that  is  imposed  upon  the  black  by  the  most 
tyrannical  master,  falls,  among  these  people,  to  the  lot  of 
the  wretched  female.  They,  in  common  with  other  In- 
dians, are  not  a prolific  race;  indeed,  it  is  seldom  that  a 
woman  has  more  than  three  or  four  children.  Many  of 
these,  owing  to  unavoidable  exposure,  die  young ; the  boys, 
however,  are  nurtured  with  care,  and  treated  with  great 
kindness  by  their  mothers,  while  the  girls  are  frequently 
beaten  and  abused  unmercifully.  I have  never  seen  an 
idiot,  or  one  that  was  naturally  deformed,  among  them. 


32 


PANTOMIME. 


Of  all  the  Indians  I had  before  encountered,  there  were 
none  who  had  not  an  extreme  fondness  for  spirituous  liq- 
uors. The  prairie  tribes  that  I have  seen  say  the  taste  of 
such  liquor  is  not  pleasant,  that  it  makes  fools  of  them,  and 
that  they  do  not  desire  it.  If  there  are  exceptions  to  this, 
I think  they  may  be  set  down  as  factitious  rather  than  nat- 
ural, the  appetite  having  been  created  by  occasional  indul- 
gence in  the  use  of  a little  at  a time. 

Their  diet  is  very  simple ; as  I said  before,  from  infan- 
cy to  old  age,  their  only  food,  with  the  exception  of  a few 
wild  plants  which  they  find  on  the  prairies,  is  fresh  meat, 
of  which,  in  times  of  plenty,  they  consume  enormous  quan- 
tities. In  common  with  many  other  tribes,  they  can,  when 
necessity  demands  it,  abstain  from  eating  for  several  days 
without  inconvenience,  and  they  are  enabled  to  make  up  at 
one  meal  the  deficiency.  All  of  them  are  extravagantly 
fond  of  tobacco,  which  they  use  for  smoking,  mixed  with 
the  dried  leaves  of  the  sumach,  inhaling  the  smoke  into 
their  lungs,  and  giving  it  out  through  their  nostrils.  Their 
language  is  verbal -and  pantomimic.  The  former  consists 
of  a very  limited  number  of  words,  some  of  which  are  com- 
mon to  all  the  prairie  tribes.  The  latter  is  used  and  under- 
stood with  great  facility  and  accuracy  by  all  the  tribes  from 
the  Gila  to  the  Columbia,  the  motions  and  signs  to  express 
ideas  being  common  to  all. 

This  pantomimic  vocabulary,  which  is  exceedingly  grace- 
ful and  significant,  when  oral  communication  is  impractica- 
ble, constitutes  the  court  language  of  the  Plains ; and,  what 
was  a fact  of  much  astonishment  to  me,  I discovered  that  it 
was  nearly  the  same  as  that  practiced  by  the  mutes  in  one 
of  our  deaf  and  dumb  institutions  that  I visited.  For  ex- 
ample, there  were  some  five  or  six  boys  directed  to  take 
their  places  at  the  black-boards  and  interpret  what  I pro- 
posed to  say.  I then,  by  pantomimic  signs,  told  them  that 


INDIANS  AND  MUTES. 


38 


I went  on  a buffalo  hunt,  saw  a herd,  chased  them  on  horse- 
back, fired  my  gun  and  killed  one,  cut  it  up,  ate  some  of 
the  meat,  and  went  to  sleep — every  word  of  which  was 
written  down  upon  the  black-board  by  each  boy  as  rapidly 
as  the  signs  were  made,  excepting  that  all  made  the  com- 
mon mistake  of  taking  the  buffalo  for  deer. 

The  name  of  each  tribe  of  Indians  has  a signification, 
which  is  represented  by  a sign  that  is  well  understood  by 
them  all. 

The  Comanche,  or  “Snake,”  is  indicated  by  making  with 
the  hand  a waving  motion,  in  imitation  of  the  crawling  of 
the  reptile. 

The  Cheyenne,  or  “Cut  Arm,”  by  drawing  the  hand 
across  the  arm  to  imitate  cutting  it  with  a knife. 

The  Arapahoes,  or  “ Smellers,”  by  seizing  the  nose  with 
the  thumb  and  forefinger. 

The  Sioux,  or  “Cut-throats,”  by  drawing  the  hand  across 
the  throat. 

The  Pawnees,  or  “Wolves,”  by  placing  a hand  on  each 
side  of  the  forehead,  with  two  fingers  pointing  to  the  front, 
to  represent  the  narrow,  sharp  ears  of  the  wolf. 

The  Crows,  by  imitating  the  flapping  of  the  bird’s  wings 
with  the  palms  of  the  hands. 

On  approaching  strangers  the  prairie  Indians  put  their 
horses  at  full  speed,  and  persons  not  familiar  with  their  pe- 
culiarities and  habits  might  interpret  this  as  an  act  of  hos- 
tility ; but  it  is  their  custom  with  friends  as  well  as  ene- 
mies, and  should  not  occasion  groundless  alarm. 

When  a party  is  discovered  approaching  thus,  and  are 
near  enough  to  distinguish  signals,  all  that  is  necessary  in 
order  to  ascertain  their  disposition  is  to  raise  the  right  hand 
with  the  palm  in  front,  and  gradually  push  it  forward  and 
back  several  times.  They  all  understand  this  to  be  a com- 


34 


MARTIAL  AMBITION. 


mand  to  halt,  and  if  they  are  not  hostile  it  will  at  once  be 
obeyed. 

After  they  have  stopped,  the  right  hand  is  raised  again 
as  before,  and  slowly  moved  to  the  right  and  left,  which 
signifies  “ I do  not  know  you.  Who  are  you  ?”  They 
will  then  answer  the  inquiry  by  giving  their  signal.  If 
this  should  not  be  understood,  they  may  be  asked  if  they 
are  friends  by  raising  both  hands  grasped  in  the  manner 
of  shaking  hands,  or  by  locking  the  two  forefingers  firmly 
while  the  hands  are  held  up.  If  friendly,  they  will  respond 
with  the  same  signal;  but  if  enemies,  they  will  probably 
disregard  the  command  to  halt,  or  give  the  signal  of  anger 
by  closing  the  hand,  placing  it  against  the  forehead,  and 
turning  it  back  and  forth  while  in  that  position. 

No  people,  probably,  on  the  face  of  the  earth  are  more 
ambitious  of  martial  fame,  or  entertain  a higher  apprecia- 
tion for  the  deeds  of  a daring  and  successful  warrior  than 
the  North  American  savages  of  the  Plains.  The  attain- 
ment of  such  reputation  is  the  paramount  and  absorbing 
object  of  their  lives;  all  their  aspirations  for  distinction  in- 
variably take  this  channel  of  expression.  A young  man  is 
never  considered  worthy  to  occupy  a seat  in  council  until 
he  has  encountered  an  enemy  in  battle,  and  he  who  can 
count  the  greatest  number  of  scalps  is  the  most  highly  hon- 
ored by  his  tribe.  This  idea  is  inculcated  from  their  earli- 
est infancy.  It  is  not  surprising,  therefore,  that  with  such 
weighty  inducements  before  him,  the  young  man  who,  as 
yet,  has  gained  no  renown  as  a brave  or  warrior,  should  be 
less  discriminate  in  his  attacks  than  older  men  who  have 
already  acquired  a name.  The  young  braves  should,  there- 
fore, be  closely  watched  when  encountered  on  the  Plains. 

The  prairie  tribes  are  seldom  at  peace  with  all  their 
neighbors,  and  some  of  the  young  braves  of  a tribe  are  al- 
most always  absent  upon  a war  excursion.  These  forays 


YOUNG  WARRIORS. 


35 


sometimes  extend  into  the  heart  of  the  northern  states  of 
Mexico,  where  the  Indians  have  carried  on  successful  inva- 
sions for  many  years.  They  have  devastated  and  depopu- 
lated a great  part  of  Sonora  and  Chihuahua.  The  objects 
of  these  forays  are  to  steal  horses  and  mules,  and  to  take 
prisoners ; and  if  it  so  happens  that  a war-party  has  been 
unsuccessful  in  the  accomplishment  of  these  ends,  or  has 
had  the  misfortune  to  lose  some  of  its  number  in  battle, 
they  become  reckless,  and  will  often  attack  a small  party 
with  whom  they  are  not  at  war,  provided  they  hope  to  es- 
cape detection.  The  disgrace  attendant  upon  a return  to 
their  friends  without  some  trophies  as  an  offset  to  the  loss 
of  their  comrades  is  a powerful  incentive  to  action,  and 
they  extend  but  little  mercy  to  defenseless  travelers  who 
have  the  misfortune  to  encounter  them  at  such  a conjunc- 
ture. 

While  en  route  from  New  Mexico  to  Arkansas  in  1849  I 
was  encamped  near  the  head  of  the  Colorado  River,  and 
wishing  to  know  the  character  of  the  country  for  a few 
miles  in  advance  of  our  position,  I desired  an  officer  to  go 
out  and  make  the  reconnoissance.  I was  lying  sick  in  my 
bed  at  the  time,  or  I should  have  performed  the  duty  my- 
self. I expected  the  officer  would  have  taken  an  escort 
with  him,  but  he  omitted  to  do  so,  and  started  off  alone. 
After  proceeding  a short  distance  he  discovered  four  mount- 
ed Indians  coming  at  full  speed  directly  toward  him,  when, 
instead  of  turning  his  own  horse  toward  camp,  and  endeav- 
oring to  make  his  escape  (he  was  well  mounted),  or  halt- 
ing and  assuming  a defensive  attitude,  he  deliberately  rode 
up  to  them ; after  which  the  tracks  indicated  that  they  pro- 
ceeded about  three  miles  together,  when  the  Indians  most 
brutally  killed  and  scalped  my  most  unfortunate  but  too 
credulous  friend,  who  might  probably  have  saved  his  life 
had  he  not,  in  the  kindness  of  his  excellent  heart,  imagined 


36 


MURDER  OF  AN  OFFICER. 


that  the  savages  would  reciprocate  his  friendly  advances. 
He  was  most  woefully  mistaken,  and  his  life  paid  the  for- 
feit of  his  generous  and  noble  disposition. 

I have  never  been  able  to  get  any  positive  information 
as  to  the  persons  who  committed  this  murder,  yet  circum- 
stances render  it  highly  probable  that  they  were  a party  of 
young  Indians  who  were  returning  from  an  unsuccessful 
foray,  and  they  were  unable  to  resist  the  temptation  of  tak- 
ing the  scalp  and  horse  of  the  lieutenant. 

A small  number  of  white  men,  in  traveling  upon  the 
Plains,  should  not  allow  a party  of  strange  Indians  to  ap- 
proach them  unless  able  to  resist  an  attack  under  the  most 
unfavorable  circumstances. 

It  is  a safe  rule,  when  a man  finds  himself  alone  in  the 
prairies,  and  sees  a party  of  Indians  approaching,  not  to  al- 
low them  to  come  near  him,  and  if  they  persist  in  so  doing, 
to  signal  them  to  keep  away.  If  they  do  not  obey,  and  he 
be  mounted  upon  a fleet  horse,  he  should  make  for  the  near- 
est timber.  If  the  Indian^  follow  and  press  him  too  close- 
ly, he  should  halt,  turn  around,  and  point  his  gun  at  the 
foremost,  which  will  often  have  the  effect  of  turning  them 
back,  but  he  should  never  draw  trigger  unless  he  finds ^that 
his  life  depends  upon  the  shot ; for,  as  soon  as  his  gun  is 
discharged,  his  sole  dependence,  unless  he  have  time  to  re- 
load, must  be  upon  the  speed  of  his  horse. 

The  Indians  of  the  Plains,  notwithstanding  the  encomi- 
ums that  have  been  heaped  upon  their  brethren  who  for- 
merly occupied  the  Eastern  States  for  their  gratitude,  have 
not,  so  far  as  I have  observed,  the  most  distant  conception 
of  that  sentiment.  You  may  confer  numberless  benefits 
upon  them  for  years,  and  the  more  that  is  done  for  them 
the  more  they  will  expect.  They  do  not  seem  to  compre- 
hend the  motive  which  dictates  an  act  of  benevolence  or 
charity,  and  they  invariably  attribute  it  to  fear  or  the  ex- 


KEEP  AWAY! 


1) 


• 

* 

• 

baker’s  views. 


89 


pectation  of  reward.  When  they  make  a present,  it  is  with 
a view  of  getting  more  than  its  equivalent  in  return. 

I have  never  yet  been  able  to  discover  that  the  Western 
wild  tribes  possessed  any  of  those  attributes  which  among 
civilized  nations  are  regarded  as  virtues  adorning  the  hu- 
man character.  They  have  yet  to  be  taught  the  first  rudi- 
ments of  civilization,  and  they  are  at  this  time  as  far  from 
any  knowledge  of  Christianity,  and  as  worthy  subjects  for 
missionary  enterprise,  as  the  most  untutored  natives  of  the 
South  Sea  Islands.  % 

The  only  way  to  make  these  merciless  freebooters  fear  or 
respect  the  authority  of  our  government  is,  when  they  mis- 
behave, first  of  all  to  chastise  them  well  by  striking  such  a 
blow  as  will  be  felt  for  a long  time,  and  thus  show  them 
that  we  are,  superior  to  them  in  war.  They  will  then  re- 
spect ns  much  more  than  when  their  good-will  is  purchased 
with  presents. 

The  opinion  of  a friend  of  mine  (Jim  Baker),  who  has 
passed  the  last  twenty-five  years  of  his  life  among  the  In- 
dians of  the  Bocky  Mountains,  corroborates  the  opinions  I 
have  advanced  upon  this  head,  and  although  I do  not  en- 
dorse all  of  his  sentiments,  yet  many  of  them  are  deduced 
from  long  and  matured  experience  and  critical  observation. 
He  says : 

“ They  are  the  most  onsartainest  varmints  in  all  creation, 
and  I reckon  tha’r  not  mor’n  half  human ; for  you  never 
seed  a human,  arter  you’d  fed  and  treated  him  to  the  best 
fixins  in'  your  lodge,  jist  turn  round  and  steal  all  your 
horses,  or  ary  other  thing  he  could  lay  his  hands  on.  Ho, 
not  adzackly.  He  would  feel  kinder  grateful,  and  ask  you 
to  spread  a blanket  in  his  lodge  ef  you  ever  passed  that 
a-way.  But  the  Injun  he  don’t  care  shucks  for  you,  and  is 
ready  to  do  you  a heap  of  mischief  as  soon  as  he  quits  your 
feed.  Ho,  Cap.,”  he  continued,  “it’s  not  the  right  way  to 


40 


bakek’s  views. 


give  um  presents  to  buy  peace ; but  ef  I war  governor  of 
these  yeer  United  States,  I’ll  tell  you  what  Vd  do.  I’d  in- 
vite um  all  to  a big  feast,  and  make  b’lieve  I wanted  to 
have  a big  talk ; and  as  soon  as  I got  um  all  together,  I’d 
pitch  in  and  sculp  about  half  of  um,  and  then  t’other  half 
would  be  mighty  glad  to  make  a peace  that  would  stick. 
That’s  the  way  I’d  make  a treaty  with  the  dog’ond,  red- 
bellied  varmints;  and  as  sure  as  you’re  born,  Cap.,  that’s 
the  only  way.” 

I suggested  to  him  the  idea  that  there  would  be  a lack 
of  good  faith  and  honor  in  such  a proceeding,  and  that  it 
would  be  much  more  in  accordance  with  my  notions  of 
fair  dealing  to  meet  them  openly  in  the  field,  and  there  en- 
deavor to  punish  them  if  they  deserve  it.  To  this  he  re- 
plied : 

“Tain’t  no  use  to  talk  about  honor  with  them,  Cap.; 
they  hain’t  got  no  such  thing  in  um  ; and  they  won’t  show 
fair  fight,  any  way  you  can  fix  it.  Don’t  they  kill  and 
sculp  a white  man  when-ar  they  get  the  better  on  him? 
The  mean  varmints,  they’ll  never  behave  themselves  until 
you  give  um  a clean  out-and-out  licking.  They  can’t  onder- 
stand  white  folks’  ways,  and  they  won’t  learn  um ; and  ef 
you  treat  um  decently,  they  think  you  are  afeard.  You 
may  depend  on’t,  Cap.,  the  only  way  to  treat  Injuns  is  to 
thrash  them  well  at  first,  then  the  balance  will  sorter  take 
to  you  and  behave  themselves.” 

It  is  highly  important  to  every  man  passing  through  a 
country  frequented  by  Indians  to  know  some  of  their  hab- 
its, customs,  and  propensities,  as  this  will  facilitate  his  in- 
tercourse with  friendly  tribes,  and  enable  him,  when  he 
wishes  to  avoid  a conflict,  to  take  precautions  against  com- 
ing in  collision  with  those  who  are  hostile. 

Almost  every  tribe  has  its  own  way  of  constructing  its 
lodges,  encamping,  making  fires,  its  own  style  of  dress,  by 


INDIAN  LODGES. 


41 


some  of  which  peculiarities  the  experienced  frontiersman 
can  generally  distinguish  them. 

The  Osages,  for  example,  make  their  lodges  in  thew shape 
of  a wagon-top,  of  bent  rods  or  willows  coveted  with  skins, 
blankets,  or  the  bark  of  trees. 

The  Kickapoo  lodges  are  made  in  an  oval  form,  some- 
thing like  a rounded  haystack,  of  poles  set  in  the  ground, 
bent  over,  and  united  at  top ; this  is  covered  with  cloths  or 
bark. 

The  Witch etaws,  Wacos,  Towackanies,  and  Tonka  was 
erect  their  hunting  lodges  of  sticks  put  up  in  the  form  of 
the  frustum  of  a cone  and  covered  with  brush. 

All  these  tribes  leave  the  frame-work  of  their  lodges 
standing  when  they  move  from  camp  to  camp,  and  this,  of 
course,  indicates  the  particular  tribe  that  ejected  them. 

The  Delawares  and  Shawnees  plant  two  upright  forked 
poles,  place  a stick  across  them,  and  stretch  a canvas  cov- 
ering over  it,  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the  “ tente  d'abrV'' 

The  Sioux,  Arapahoes,  Cheyennes,  Utes,  Snakes,  Black- 
feet,  and  Kioways,  make  use  of  the  Comanche  lodge,  cov- 
ered with  dressed  buffalo  hides. 

All  the  prairie  Indians  I have  met  with  are  the  most  in- 
veterate beggars.  They  will  flock  around  strangers,  and, 
in  the  most  importunate  manner,  ask  for  every  thing  they 
see,  especially  tobacco  and  sugar ; and,  if  allowed,  they  will 
handle,  examine,  and  occasionally  pilfer  such  things  as  hap- 
pen to  take  their  fancy.  The  proper  way  to  treat  them  is 
to  give  them  at  once  such  articles  as  are  to  be  disposed  of, 
and  then,  in  a firm  and  decided  manner,  let  them  under- 
stand that  they  are  to  receive  nothing  else. 

A party  of  Keechis  once  visited  my  camp  with  their 
principal  chief,  who  said  he  had  some  important  business 
to  discuss,  and  demanded  a council  with  the  ccipitan.  After 
consent  had  been  given,  he  assembled  Jiis  principal  men, 

D* 


42 


KEECHI  COUNCIL. 


and,  going  through  the  usual  preliminary  of  taking  a big 
smoke , he  arose,  and  with  a great  deal  of  ceremony  com- 
menced his  pompous  and  flowery  speech,  which,  like  all 
others  of  a similar  character,  amounted  to  nothing,  until  he 
touched  upon  the  real  object  of  his  visit.  He  said  he  had 
traveled  a long  distance  over  the  prairies  to  see  and  have  a 
talk  with  his  white  brothers;  that  his  people  were  very 
hungry  and  naked.  He  then  approached  me  with  six 
small  sticks,  and,  after  shaking  hands,  laid  one  of  the  sticks 
in  my  hand,  which  he  said  represented  sugar,  another  sig- 
nified tobacco,  and  the  other  four,  pork,  flour,  whisky,  and 
blankets,  all  of  which  he  assured  me  his  people  were  in 
great  need  of,  and  must  have.  His  talk  was  then  con- 
cluded, and  he  sat  down,  apparently  much  gratified  with 
the  graceful  and  impressive  manner  with  which  he  had  ex- 
ecuted his  part  of  the  performance. 

It  then  devolved  upon  me  to  respond  to  the  brilliant  ef- 
fort of  the  prairie  orator,  which  I did  in  something  like  the 
following  manner.  After  imitating  his  style  for  a short 
time,  I closed  my  remarks  by  telling  him  that  we  were 
poor  infantry  soldiers,  who  were  always  obliged  to  go  on 
foot ; that  we  had  become  very  tired  of  walking,  and  would 
like  very  much  to  ride.  Furthermore,  I had  observed  that 
they  had  among  them  many  fine  horses  and  mules.  I then 
took  two  small  sticks,  and  imitating  as  nearly  as  possible 
the  manner  of  the  chief,  placed  one  in  his  hand,  which  I 
told  him  was  nothing  more  nor  less  than  a first-rate  horse, 
and  then  the  other,  which  signified  a good  large  mule.  I 
closed  by  saying  • that  I was  ready  to  exchange  presents 
whenever  it  suited  his  convenience. 

They  looked  at  each  other  for  some  time  without  speak- 
ing, but  finally  got  up  and  walked  away,  and  I was  not 
troubled  with  them  again. 


COMANCHE  INDIANS. 


43 


CHAPTER  II. 

COMANCHE  INDIANS. 

Comanche  Indians. — Local  Subdivisions  of  the  Tribe. — Nomads. — Dimin- 
nishing  in  Numbers. — Fear  of  visiting  the  Whites. — Courtship. — Poly- 
gamy.— Is-sa-keep. — Receiving  Guests. — Council. — Singular  Custom. — 
Propensity  for  Horse-racing. — Kickapoo  Horse-race. — War  Expeditions. 
— Method  of  Recruiting. — Mexican  Prisoners. — Parker  Family. — Treat- 
ment of  Negroes. — Visit  to  the  Fort. — Mourning  Ceremonies. — Ideas  of 
the  Bible. — Opinion  of  the  Whites. — Medicine  Lodges. — Ideas  of  their  own 
Importance. — Way  to  treat  them. — Belief  in  the  Deity. 

Of  all  the  prairie  tribes,  with  perhaps  the  exception  of 
the  Dacotahs  or  Sioux,  the  Comanches  are  the  most  numer- 
ous and  warlike.  They  have  been  variously  estimated  as 
numbering  from  12,000  to  18,000  souls ; probably  the  for- 
mer is  nearest  the  truth.  They  have  three  local  grand  di- 
visions, namely,  the  Northern,  Middle,  and  Southern,  and 
designated  by  them  as  Tennawas,  Yamparacks,  and  Coman- 
ches. These  are  subdivided  into  smaller  bands,  each  hav- 
ing its  separate  chief  or  captain. 

The  division  of  the  nation  known  as  the  “ Southern  Co- 
manches” remains  permanently  within  the  limits  of  the  ter- 
ritory pertaining  to  Texas.  It  consists  of  two  bands,  each 
of  which  has  its  principal  and  subordinate  chiefs,  and  they 
do  not  of  late  years  acknowledge  the  sovereignty  of  a com- 
mon ruler  and  leader  in  their  united  councils  nor  in  war. 
The  names  of  their  two  principal  chiefs  were  in  1854  “Se- 
naco”  and  “ Ketumsee.”  The  aggregate  number  in  the  two 
bands  at  that  period  was  about  1100  souls. 

These  people  lead  a predatory  and  pastoral  life,  roving 


44 


SOUTHERN  COMANCHES. 


from  place  to  place  in  search  of  game  for  their^  own  sub- 
sistence and  grass  for  their  animals.  Their  range  extends 
from  the  Red  River  to  the  Colorado.  In  the  summer  they 
are  sometimes  found  upon  the  former  stream,  but  the  win- 
ters are  always  passed  upon  the  waters  of  the  Brazos  and 
Colorado,  where  the  grass  remains  fresh  and  green  during 
the  winter  season,  and  the  climate  is  mild  and  agreeable. 

As  the  buffaloes  have  entirely  abandoned  their  hunting 
grounds,  and  do  not  now  extend  their  migrations  south  of 
Red  River  in  this  direction,  and  as  these  Indians  do  not 
venture  to  cross  that  stream  in  pursuit  of  them,  they  derive 
no  sustenance  from  the  flesh  of  these  animals,  or  clothing 
from  their  skins,  and  they  are  reduced  to  the  necessity  of 
depending  upon  the  deer  and  antelope  for  food  and  raiment. 
Fortunately,  in  this  mild  and  genial  climate  they  require 
but  little  clothing.  \ 

In  a country  like  theirs,  where  the  game  is  by  no  means 
abundant,  the  means  for  sustaining  life  are  exceedingly  pre- 
carious and  uncertain,  and  the  Indians  who  depend  exclu- 
sively upon  the  fruits  of  the  chase  are  often  subjected  to 
great  privations  and  sufferings;  and  were  it  not  for  their 
horses  and  mules,  which  are  made  use  of  for  food  when 
nothing  else  can  be  obtained,  many  of  them  would  perish 
from  hunger.  They  formerly  possessed  great  numbers  of 
these  animals,  but  they  are  rapidly  diminishing,  and  I ob- 
served a very  sensible  decrease  in  five  years. 

They  have  lived  so  long  near  the  border  white  settlers 
that  they  are  familiar  with  many  of  their  customs  and  hab- 
its, but,  like  their  red  kindred  in  other  places,  they  unfortu- 
nately only  see  fit  to  adopt  such  as  are  detrimental  to  them. 
They  are  becoming  addicted  to  the  use  of  that  bane  of  their 
race,  ardent  spirits,  and  are  much  more  idle  and  licentious 
than  before  they  came  in  contact  with  the  pale-faces.  Dis- 
eases induced  by  their  immoral  practices,  with  the  almost 


MIDDLE  COMANCHES. 


45 


continual  wars  in  which  they  have  been  engaged,  have 
probably  contributed  largely  to  the  great  aggregate  of  mor- 
tality among  them.  They  themselves  acknowledge  that 
their  numbers  are  rapidly  diminishing,  and  that  it  is  only 
a few  years  since  they  were  much  more  populous  than  at 
present.  Many  of  them  have  the  discernment  to  foresee 
that  the  only  means  by  which  they  can  preserve  their  iden- 
tity as  a nation,  for  any  great  length  of  time,  is  in  an  im- 
mediate abandonment  of  their  present  nomadic  life,  and  the 
adoption  of  agricultural  habits. 

It  can  not  be  expected  that  the  maje  adults  of  the  present 
generation  will  cast  aside  their  national  prejudices  against 
tilling  the  soil  (which  they  regard  as  the  occupation  of  a 
slave),  and  at  once  fall  into  habits  of  industry ; but  may  it 
not  be  hoped  that  the  women  and  children  can  be  taught 
the  rudiments  of  agriculture,  and  the  next  generations  de- 
rive profit  therefrom  ? 

The  “Middle  Comanches,”  as  their  designation  implies, 
occupy  the  country  lying  between  the  other  divisions  of 
the  tribe.  There  are  two  bands  in  this  branch  of  the  na- 
tion, called  “ No-co-nies”  and  “ Ten-na-was.”  Their  prin- 
cipal chiefs  are  named  “ Pah-hah-eu-ka,”  “ Po-hah-cot-o- 
wit,”  and  “ Choice.” 

From  the  best  information  that  can  be  obtained,  they  are 
supposed  to  number  about  3500  souls.  They  spend  the 
winters  in  Northwestern  Texas,  and  in  the  summer  move 
north,  across  the  Eed  and  Canadian  Rivers,  toward  the  Ar- 
kansas, in  pursuit  of  the  buffaloes.  They  migrate  with  the 
game  and  seasons.  They  are  more  in  a state  of  nature  than 
the  Southern  Comanches,  still  using  the  buffalo  skin  for  a 
covering,  and  seldom  visiting  the  white  settlements. 

They  are  on  terms  of  peace  and  friendship  with  their 
neighboring  brethren  on  either  side  of  them,  and  seem  to 
form  an  intermediate  connecting  link  between  them. 


46 


NORTHERN  COMANCHES. 


They  interchange  visits  with  their  neighbors,  and  one  of 
their  sub-chiefs  was  present  with  them  when  they  met  us 
upon  the  Brazos. 

They  have  occasionally  seen  the  white  traders,  and  a few 
of  them  have  visited  some  of  the  outer  settlements  upon 
the  Colorado,  but  they  generally  have  but  a very  vague 
conception  of  the  customs,  numbers,  and  power  of  the 
whites.  Some  years  since  I chanced  to  meet  with  one  of 
their  chiefs  at  a trading-post  near  the  Canadian.  He  had 
left  his  band  on  Bed  River,  and  come  in  alone  to  visit  a 
Cherokee  trader,  and  stated  that  he  had  endeavored  to  pre- 
vail upon  some  of  his  people  to  accompany  him,  but  they 
all  declined,  upon  the  supposition  that  he  was  embarking 
upon  a desperate  expedition,  where  his  life  would  be  placed 
in  imminent  jeopardy,  and  they  were  not  disposed  to  en- 
counter the  risks  attending  such  a reckless  adventure. 

The  “ Northern  Comanches”  are  much  more  wild  than 
either  of  the  others  we  have  spoken  of.  Through  summer 
and  winter  they  range  the  plains  upon  the  trails  of  the  buf- 
faloes. At  one  time  their  larder  is  overstocked  and  they 
gorge  themselves  to  repletion,  while  at  another  time  they 
are  famishing  for  the  aliment  necessary  to  sustain  life.  All 
of  them  are  alike  a race  of  hunters,  depending  from  day  to 
day  upon  the  results  of  the  chase. 

The  country  they  inhabit  extends  from  the  Arkansas  to 
Red  River,  and  it  is  but  seldom  that  they  have  met  with 
any  whites,  and  when  I saw  them  in  1849  none  of  them 
had  ever  seen  a house,  with  the  exception  of  a few  who  had 
been  in  Mexico. 

Although  I have  not  been  able  to  obtain  sufficient  data 
to  enable  me  to  arrive  at  any  thing  like  a satisfactory  esti- 
mate of  the  numbers  of  this  branch  of  the  nation,  yet  there 
. is  no  doubt  that  they  greatly  exceed  the  aggregate  of  the 
other  two. 


COMANCHE  LODGE, 


COMANCHE  COURTSHIP. 


49 


The  Comanches  suppose  their  original  progenitors  came 
from  the  west. 

Polygamy  is  prevalent  among  them,  every  man  having 
as  many  wives  as  he  can  support. 

Their  courtship  is  as  brief  as  it  is  peculiar.  When  he  de- 
sires to  marry,  the  suitor  provides  himself  with  horses,  and 
such  goods  as  he  thinks  will  be  acceptable  to  the  father  of 
his  intended,  takes  them  to  the  lodge  occupied  by  the  head 
of  the  family,  and  then  seats  himself  near  by  to  await  the 
result  of  the  negotiation.  The  father  then  comes  out,  ex- 
amines what  has  been  offered,  and,  if  it  is  satisfactory,  leads 
out  his  daughter  and  hands  her  over  to  the  bridegroom,  and 
the  marriage  ceremony  is  completed.  The  girl  has  no  voice 
in  the  matter,  and  has  no  alternative  but  to  submit  to  the 
decision  of  her  father. 

This  summary  method  of  match-making  often  leads  to 
family  dissension;  and  as  young  girls  are  often  compelled 
to  unite  their  fortunes  with  old  men,  this  not  unfrequently 
results  in  subsequent  elopements  with  younger  lovers.  In 
such  cases,  the  husband  pursues  the  truants ; and  their  for- 
mer practice  authorized  him,  in  case  he  overtook  them,  to 
put  them  to  death ; but  now  they  generally  compromise  the 
matter  by  an  equivalent  in -horses,  after  which  the  girl  be- 
comes the  property  of  her  lover. 

Ketumsee,  the  chief  of  one  of  the  bands  of  Southern  Co- 
manches, a man  at  least  sixty  years  old,  had  four  wives,  the 
eldest  of  whom  was  not  over  twenty  years  of  age.  They 
seemed  very  fond  of  the  old  man,  and  would  sit  by  the 
hour  combing  his  hair  and  caressing  him.  I showed  one 
of  them  a photographic  likeness  of  my  wife,  which  seemed 
to  interest  her  very  much,  and  she  frequently  requested  me 
to  allow  her  to  look  at  it  afterward.  She  seemed  to  imag- 
ine that  it  was  living,  and  would  point  to  the  eyes  and 
smile,  as  much  as  to  say  it  could  see. 


50 


IS-SA-KEEP. 


I upon  one  occasion  asked  her  how  slie  would  like  to 
leave  Ketumsee  and  go  home  with  me.  She  in  reply 
pointed  to  the  photograph,  and  drew  her  other  hand  across 
her  throat,  most  significantly  indicating  that,  in  her  judg- 
ment, my  house  would  be  any  thing  but  a safe  place  for 
her,  and  as  I was  rather  inclined  to  the  same  opinion  my- 
self, I did  not  feel  disposed  to  discuss  the  subject  any  far- 
ther. 

It  was  formerly  regarded  by  the  Comanches  as  an  essen- 
tial part  of  genuine  hospitality  that  their  guests  should  have 
wives  assigned  to  them  during  their  stay  in  camp.  This 
custom,  however,  is  now  pretty  much  abandoned.  In  1849, 
while  en  route  to  New  Mexico,  I met  with  a very  large  band 
of  Northern  Comanches,  commanded  by  a venerable  old 
chief  called  Is-sa-keep  (Wolf’s  Shoulder).  He  requested  us 
to  encamp  at  a certain  place,  as  he  wished  to  hold  a council 
with  us.  I complied  with  his  request,  and  the  next  morn- 
ing he,  with  about  a dozen  of  his  principal  men,  dressed 
and  painted  in  the  most  fantastic  manner,  rode  into  our 
camp  with  great  pomp  and  ceremony,  dismounted  at  my 
tent,  and  after  embracing-  me  a la  Mexicano  (only,  to  use  a 
trite  phrase,  “ a good  deal  more  so,”  as  they  nearly  squeezed 
the  breath  out  of  my  body),  they  seated  themselves  around 
the  door  of  my  tent,  and  intimated  that  they  were  ready 
for  a “big  talk.”  I informed  them  that  we  were  escorting 
emigrants  to  California,  and  that  in  all  probability  many 
more  would,  from  time  to  time,  travel  over  the  same  road, 
and  that  our  authorities  would  hold  them  responsible  if  these 
people  were  molested.  I also  informed  them  that  our  gov- 
ernment, by  treaty  with  Mexico,  had  obligated  itself  to  put 
a stop  to  farther  depredations  upon  the  people  of  that  coun- 
try by  Indians  living  within  our  territory,  and  that  all  Mex- 
ican prisoners  in  their  hands  must  be  turned  over  to  our  au- 
thorities forthwith,  etc. 


AVERSION  TO  LIQUOR. 


51 


Is-sa-keep  replied  that  the  talk  was  very  good  except  in 
the  two  particulars  of  horse-stealing  and  returning  prison- 
ers, which  made  him  very  sad. 

After  the  council  was  concluded  I mixed  a glass  of  weak 
brandy  toddy  and  offered  it  to  the  chief.  He  tasted  the 
beverage  and  passed  it  to  the  next,  and  from  him  it  went 
around  the  entire  circle,  all  the  Indians  taking  a sip,  but  at 
the  same  time  making  grimaces,  as  if  it  was  not  pleasant. 
The  glass  was  handed  back  to  me  by  the  chief,  with  the  re- 
mark that  it  was  not  good,  as  it  took  away  their  senses  and 
made  fools  of  them. 

Shortly  after  this  I observed  my  interpreter,  Black  Bea- 
ver, engaged  in  quite  an  animated  discussion  with  the  chief, 
which  led  me  to  inquire  what  they  were  talking  about.  At 
this  time  there  were  probably  five  hundred  emigrants  and 
soldiers  collected  directly  around  our  circle,  all  manifesting 
the  utmost  curiosity  to  hear  every  thing  that  was  said.  Bea- 
ver, in  reply  to  my  question,  then  said,  “He  say,  captain,  he 
bring  two  wife  for  you,”  pointing  to  two  girls  who  were 
sitting  near  by.  I was  a good  deal  embarrassed  at  such  a 
proposition,  made  in  presence  of  so  large  an  assembly,  but 
told  Beaver  to  inform  the  chief  that  this  was  not  in  accord- 
ance with  the  customs  of  the  white  people ; that  they  only 
had  one  wife  at  home,  and  were  not  at  all  disposed  to  mar- 
ry others  when  abroad.  This  was  interpreted  to  Is-sa-keep, 
and,  after  a brief  consultation,  Beaver  interpreted,  “He  say, 
captain,  you  the  strangest  man  he  never  see ; every  man  he 
seen  before,  when  he  been  travlin’  long  time,  the  fust  thing 
he  want,  wife” 

Lieutenant  John  Buford  (afterward  General  Buford),  who 
was  attached  to  my  command  at  this  time,  had,  just  previ- 
ous to  our  departure  from  Arkansas,  received  from  his  un- 
cle in  Kentucky  a present  of  one  of  the  finest  of  his  large 
stud-of  thorough-bred  horses,  and  he  had  taken  great  pains 


52 


PROPENSITY  FOR  RACING. 


to  keep  him  up  in  good  running  condition  during  our  trip. 
He  had  heard  of  the  inveterate  propensity  of  the  Coman- 
ches  for  horse-racing,  and  expected  they  might  be  disposed 
to  try  the  speed  of  some  of  their  own  animals  with  his.  As 
we  were  all  anxious  to  witness  the  comparative  racing  qual- 
ities of  the  full-blooded  stock  and  the  Indian  horses,  we  in- 
quired of  the  chief  if  he  was  inclined  to  enter  any  of  his 
horses  against  that  of  the  lieutenant.  He  said  he  was  very 
fond  of  the  sport,  but  that,  unfortunately,  all  of  their  fleetest 
horses  were  then  absent  on  a buffalo  hunt ; but  if,  on  our  re- 
turn, we  still  wished  to  try  the  experiment,  he  would  will- 
ingly bet  as  many  horses  as  we  chose  to  risk  upon  the  re- 
sult, provided  we  would  consent  to  run  fourteen  miles. 

The  race  did  not,  therefore,  come  off  at  that  time,  but 
Beaver  seemed  to  be  fully  impressed  with  the  conviction 
that  if  it  had,  our  thoroughbred  would  have  been  beaten. 

As  an  evidence  in  favor  of  this  supposition,  he  said  he 
once  accompanied  a party  of  Kickapoos,  who  had  pur- 
chased a very  fleet  race-horse  from  a white  man  in  Mis- 
souri, and  took  him  a long  distance  out  into  the  Plains  for 
the  express  purpose  of  running  him  against  the  Comanche 
horses.  They  conducted  him  very  carefully,  packing  grain 
for  him  the  entire  distance,  and  took  with  them  a large 
number  of  other  horses  to  wager  with  Comanches,  and 
they  all  expected  confidently  to  make  a good  speculation. 

They  arrived  at  the  Comanche  camp,  and  made  bets  of 
all  their  horses  and  their  blankets,  and  the  preliminaries 
of  the  contest  were  satisfactorily  arranged  for  all  parties. 
Beaver,  who  was  the  guest  of  the  principal  chief,  felt  the 
most  perfect  confidence,  and  was  disposed  to  venture  every 
thing  he  possessed,  but  his  host  endeavored  to  dissuade 
him  from  betting  on  the  race  at  all,  telling  him  he  would 
be  certain  to  lose  his  property.  He  persisted,  however,* 
and  the  chief  took  all  his  bets.  The  race  was  run,  and,  to 


WAR  EXPEDITIONS. 


53 


the  astonishment  and  discomfiture  of  the  Kickapoos,  their 
horse  was  badly  beaten.  The  magnanimous  chief  then 
told  Beaver  to  take  back  his  horses,  and  never  again  to 
venture  in  a speculation,  the  success  of  which  depended 
upon  beating  the  Comanches  in  horse-racing. 

The  vanquished  sportsmen,  with  the  single  exception  of 
my  friend  Beaver,  returned  home  on  foot,  partially  deprived 
of  their  clothing,  and  a good  deal  chopfallen,  and,  as  I un- 
derstand, resolved  from  thenceforth  never  to  repeat  the  ex- 
periment. 


WAR  EXPEDITIONS. 

When  a chief  desires  to  organize  a war-party,  he  pro- 
vides himself  with  a long  pole,  attaches  a red  flag  to  the 
end  of  it,  and  trims  the  top  with  eagle  feathers.  He  then 
mounts  his  horse  in  his  war  costume,  and  rides  around 
through  the  camp  singing  the  war-song.  Those  who  are 
disposed  to  join  the  expedition  mount  their  horses  and  fall 
into  the  procession ; after  parading  about  for  a time,  all  dis- 
mount, and  the  war-dance  is  performed.  This  ceremony  is 
continued  from  day  to  day  until  a sufficient  number  of  vol- 
unteers are  found  to  accomplish  the  objects  desired,  when 
they  set  out  for  the  theatre  of  their  intended  exploits. 

As  they  proceed  upon  their  expedition,  it  sometimes  hap- 
pens that  the  chief  with  whom  it  originated,  and  who  inva- 
riably assumes  the  command,  becomes  discouraged  at  not 
finding  an  opportunity  of  displaying  his  warlike  abilities, 
and  abandons  the  enterprise ; in  which  event,  if  others  of 
the  party  desire  to  proceed  farther,  they  select  another  lead- 
er and  push  on,  and  thus  so  long  as  any  one  of  the  party 
holds  out. 

A war-party  is  sometimes  absent  for  a great  length  of 
time,  and  for  days,  weeks,  and  months  their  friends  at  home 
anxiously  await  their  return,  until  suddenly,  from  afar,  the 

E* 


54 


PRISONERS. 


- 

shrill  war-cry  of  an  avant  courier  is  heard  proclaiming  the 
approach  of  the  victorious  warriors.  The  camp  is  in  an  in- 
stant alive  with  excitement  and  commotion.  Men,  women, 
and  children  swarm  out  to  meet  the  advancing  party. 
Their  white  horses  are  painted  and  decked  out  in  the  most 
fantastic  style,  and  led  in  advance  of  the  triumphant  pro- 
cession ; and,  as  they  pass  around  through  the  village,  ffhe 
old  women  set  up  a most  unearthly  howl  of  exultation, 
after  which  the  scalp-dance  is  performed  with  all  the  pomp 
and  display  their  limited  resources  admit  of,  the  warriors 
having  their  faces  painted  black. 

When,  on  the  other  hand,  the  expedition  terminates  dis- 
astrously by  the  loss  of  some  of  the  party  in  battle,  the  rel- 
atives of  the  deceased  cut  off  their  own  hair  and  the  tails 
and  manes  of  their  horses  as  symbols  of  mourning,  and 
howl  and  cry  for  a long  time. 

The  Comanches  always  have  among  them  Mexican  pris- 
oners, whom  they  have  captured  when  they  were  young 
children,  and  have  raised  and  adopted  into  the  nation- 
They  seem  readily  to  embrace  the  habits  of  the  Indians, 
and  intermarry  with  them. 

I had  in  my  employ  for  some  considerable  time  a young 
man  named  Parker,  who,  with  a sister,  were  captured  by 
the  Comanches  on  the  borders  of  Texas  when  they  were 
only  six  or  eight  years  old.  The  Indians  murdered  all  the 
family  with  the  exception  of  these  two  children  and  their 
mother ; the  latter,  fortunately,  was  absent  from  home  at 
the  time.  They  carried  the  children  away  to  their  prairie 
haunts,  where  they  kept  them  for  several  years,  until  at 
length  a Delaware'  trader  purchased  the  boy  and  brought 
him  to  Fort  Gibson,  from  whence  he  was  sent  home  to  his 
mother’s  house.  She  was,  of  course,  greatly  rejoiced  to  see 
him  again,  but  deplored  the  loss  of  her  daughter,  and  pre- 
vailed upon  the  young  man  to  return  into  the  Plains,  hunt 


TREATMENT  OF  PRISONERS. 


55 


up  the  Comanches,  and  endeavor  to  purchase  his  sister  from 
them. 

He  went,  found  the  camp,  and  used  every  argument  in 
his  power  to  prevail  upon  his  sister  to  leave  the  Indians 
and  return  home  with  him,  but  it  was  of  no  avail.  She 
told  him  that  she  knew  no  mother  except  her  adopted  In- 
dian parent;  that  her  husband,  children,  and  friends,  and 
all  else  that  she  held  dear  on  earth,  were  there,  and  there 
she  was  resolved  to  remain  for  the  remainder  of  her  life. 
He  left  her  and  returned  home  alone,  and,  if  she  is  living, 
she  is  probably  with  the  savages  yet. 

A few  years  since  there  was  another  white  man  living  in 
Western  Texas  who  was  captured  by  the  Comanches  when 
a small  boy,  and  lived  with  them  until  he  was  grown  up. 
On  his  return  to  his  relatives  he  had  become  so  thorough- 
ly Comancheized  that,  at  times  when  he  felt  hungry,  he 
would  take  his  rifle,  go  out  into  his  father’s  pasture,  shoot 
down  an  ox,  and,  after  cutting  off  a steak,  build  a fire,  and 
cook  it  on  a stick,  leaving  the  remainder  for  the  wolves ; 
and  it  was  some  considerable  time  before  his  family  could 
convince  him  of  the  impropriety  of  this  improvident  pro- 
ceeding. 

A Delaware  trader,  in  1850,  brought  into  the  settlements 
two  negro  girls  which  he  had  obtained  from  the  Comanches. 
It  appeared  that  they  had  been  with  a number  of  Seminole 
negroes  who  attempted  to  cross  the  Plains  to  join  Wild  Cat 
upon  the  Rio  Grande. 

The  party  had  been  intercepted  by  the  Indians,  and  ev- 
ery one,  with  the  exception  of  these  two  girls,  put  to  death. 
They  were  taken  to  the  camp,  where  the  most  inhuman 
barbarities  were  perpetrated  upon  them.  Among  other 
fiendish  atrocities,  the  savages  scraped  through  their  skin 
into  the  flesh,  believing  that  beneath  the  cuticle  the  flesh 
was  black  like  the  color  upon  the  exterior.  They  burned 


56 


SWAPPING  WIVES. 


them  with  live  coals  to  ascertain  whether  fire  produced  the 
same  sensations  of  pain  as  with  their  own  people,  and  tried 
various  other  experiments  which  were  attended  with  most 
acute  torture.  The  poor  girls  were  shockingly  scarred  and 
mutilated  when  I saw  them. 

While  I was  stationed  at  Camp  Arbuckle,  on  the  Cana- 
dian River,  in  1850,  a band  of  prairie  Indians  came  in  to 
see  us,  and,  as  this  was  probably  the  first  time  they  had 
ever  entered  a white  man’s  habitation,  every  thing  was 
novel  to  them,  and  their  curiosity  was  very  much  excited. 
The  chief  examined  various  articles  of  furniture,  books,  and 
pictures,  but  nothing  seemed  to  attract  his  attention  so 
much  as  an  oil-cloth  rug  upon  the  floor.  It  was  covered 
with  bright  colors,  which  appeared  to  take  his  fancy  amaz- 
ingly, and  he  scrutinized  it  very  closely.  He  scraped  it 
with  his  finger  nails,  and,  wetting  his  fingers,  tried  to  wash 
off  the  coloring ; and,  after  he  had  seen  all  that  interested 
him,  inquired  if  the  President  had  sent  me  all  those  things 
from  Washington.  My  wife  showed  him  specimens  of  em- 
broidery, which  pleased  him  so  much  that  he  paid  her  the 
compliment  of  proposing  to  exchange  wives  with  me,  and, 
upon  my  referring  him  to  her  for  a decision,  he  informed 
me  that  he  was  not  in  the  habit  of  trading  with  squaws,  but 
if  I would  only  say  the  word,  he  was  ready  to  swap  right 
off. 

When  a Comanche  warrior  dies,  he  is  buried  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a high  hill,  in  a sitting  posture,  with  his  face  to  the 
east,  and  his  buffalo  robe  and  all  his  scanty  wardrobe  with 
him.  His  best  horses  and  all  his  war  implements  are  killed 
and  destroyed,  and  the  remainder  of  his  animals  have  their 
manes  and  tails  shaved  close,  and  the  women  of  the  family 
crop  their  hair  as  a symbol  of  affliction  and  mourning.  Aft- 
er the  death  the  relatives  and  friends  of  the  deceased  as- 
semble morning  and  evening  outside  the  camp,  where  they 


MRS.  SANTA  ANA. 


57 


cry  and  cut  themselves  with  knives  for  half  an  hour  or 
more ; and  this  sometimes  lasts  for  a month. 

When  any  person  dies  the  corpse  is  buried  immediate- 
ly. The  death  of  a young  warrior  is  always  greatly  la- 
mented, and  the  mourning  ceremonies  continue  a long  time ; 
but  when  an  old  man  dies  they  only  mourn  for  him  a few 
days,  upon  the  principle  that  his  services  were  no  longer 
useful  to  his  people. 

In  1849  I met  with  the  widow  of  a prominent  chief  of 
the  Southern  Comanches,  “ Santa  Ana,”  who  had  then  been 
dead  about  three  years ; yet  she  still  continued  the  mourn- 
ing ceremonies,  and  every  evening,  just  before  sunset,  she 
could  be  seen  on  a hill  adjacent  to  the  camp  crying  and 
howling  most  piteously.  This  woman  possessed  a large 
number  of  very  valuable  horses  and  mules,  and  she  had  re- 
ceived several  very  advantageous  offers  to  renew  matrimo- 
nial relations  with  leading  men  of  the  tribe,  but  she  declined 
them  all,  and  seemed  devoted  to  the  memory  of  her  depart- 
ed husband. 

She  did  not  associate  much  with  the  men,  but  pitched 
her  lodge  at  a distance  from  all  others ; and  I was  informed 
that  there  was  no  man  in  the  tribe  who  could  excel  her  in 
hunting.  She  was  said  to  have  killed  in  one  morning  near 
Fort  Chadbourn  fourteen  deer. 

She  was  one  of  the  most  dignified  and  distinguished -look- 
ing persons  we  saw  in  the  tribe. 

These  Indians  believe  that  all,  after  death,  go  to  a place 
in  the  spirit  world  where  there  is  no  scarcity  of  buffalo,  and 
where  their  condition  is  supremely  happy  provided  they 
have  taken  a plenty  of  scalps  and  stolen  a goodly  number 
of  horses  in  this  world.  They  also  believe  that  the  Great 
Spirit  permits  them  to  revisit  the  earth  in  the  night-time, 
but  requires  them  to  return  to  the  spirit  hunting-grounds 
before  the  dawn  of  day. 


58 


IDEAS  OF  THE  BIBLE. 


While  with  the  Southern  Comanches  I showed  a Bible  to 
Senaco,  and  endeavored,  through  the  medium  of  a good  in- 
terpreter, to  make  him  comprehend  its  import.  * Among  oth- 
er things,  I stated  to  him  that  it  was  a talk  which  had  been 
communicated  to  our  forefathers  by  the  Great  Spirit,  and 
by  them  carefully  handed  down  from  generation  to  genera- 
tion to  us. 

I then  asked  him  if  his  people  had  ever  heard  of  this 
book  before.  He  answered  in  the  negative,  and  added  that 
in  his  opinion  this  talk  emanated  from  the  God  of  the  white 
man,  as  the  Comanches’  God  was  so  far  distant  in  the  sky 
that  they  could  not  hear  him  speak,  and  when  they  wished 
to  communicate  with  him  they  were  obliged  to  do  it  through 
the  medium  o^  the  sun,  which  they  could  see  and  hold  con- 
verse with. 

They  are  desirous  of  procuring  from  whomsoever  they 
meet  testimonials  of  their  good  behavior,  which  they  pre- 
serve with  great  care,  and  exhibit  upon  all  occasions  to 
strangers  as  a guarantee  of  future  good  conduct. 

On  meeting  with  a chief  of  the  Southern  Comanches  in 
1849,  after  going  through  the  usual  ceremony  of  embracing, 
and  assuring  me  that  he  was  the  best  friend  the  Americans 
ever  had  among  the  Indians,  he  exhibited  numerous  certifi- 
cates from  the  different  white  men  he  had  met  with,  testify- 
ing to  his  friendly  disposition.  Among  these  was  one  that 
he  desired  me  to  read  with  special  attention,  as  he  said  he 
was  of  the  opinion  that  perhaps  it  might  not  be  so  compli- 
mentary in  its  character  as  some  of  the  others.  It  was  in 
these  words : 

“ The  bearer  of  this  says  he  is  a Comanche  chief,  named 
Senaco;  that  he  is  the  biggest  Indian  and  best  friend  the 
whites  ever  had ; in  fact,  that  he  is  a first-rate  fellow ; but 
I believe  he  is  a d — d rascal,  so  boh  out  for  him” 

I smiled  on  reading  the  paper,  and,  looking  up,  found  the 


EXCHANGING  PRESENTS. 


59 


chief’s  eyes  intently  fixed  upon  mine  with  an  expression  of 
the  most  earnest  inquiry.  I told  him  the  paper  was  not  as 
good  as  it  might  be,  whereupon  he  destroyed  it. 

Five  years  after  this  interview  I met  Senaco  again  near 
the  same  place.  He  recognized  me  at  once,  and,  much  to 
my  surprise,  pronounced  my  name  quite  distinctly. 

These  Indians,  like  most  others,  are  accustomed,  in  their 
diplomatic  intercourse,  to  exchange  presents,  and  they  seem 
to  have  no  idea  of  friendship  unaccompanied  by  a substan- 
tial token  in  this  form.  Moreover,  they  measure  the  strength 
of  the  attachment  of  their  friends  by  the  magnitude  of  the 
presents  they  receive.  In  the  talk  which  I held  with  Is-sa- 
keep,I  took  occasion  to  say  that  the  President  of  the  United 
States  was  the*  friend  of  his  red  children,  and  desired  to  live 
at  peace  with  them  all.  He,  in  reply,  said  he  was  much 
astonished  to  hear  this;  for,  judging  from  the  few  trifling 
presents  I had  made  his  people,  he  had  formed  the  opinion 
that  the  “Big  Captain”  of  the  pale-faces  held  them  in  but 
little  estimation. 

The  limited  intercourse  that  has  existed  between  the  Co- 
manches  and  the  whites  does  not  appear  to  have  prepos- 
sessed the  former  much  in  our  favor,  as  the  following  inci- 
dent, which  was  related  to  me  by  Mr.  Israel  Fulsom,  a very 
intelligent  and  educated  Chickasaw,  goes  to  show.  Upon 
a certain  occasion,  while  he  was  visiting  them,  he  remarked 
to  the  chief  that  it  was  only  a few  years  since  the  people 
of  his  own  nation  were  equally  as  uncivilized  as  the  Co- 
manches,  but  that,  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  white 
missionaries,  they  had  been  induced  to  abandon  their  pre- 
carious hunting  habits,  and  had  learned  to  read  and  write, 
and  to  cultivate  the  soil,  so  that  they  were  then  enabled  to 
live  in  the  same  manner  as  the  white  people,  and  were  al- 
ways supplied  with  abundance  of  food. 

The  chief  replied  that  he  had  no  doubt  there  were  some 


60 


OPINIONS  OF  WHITE  MEN. 


advantages  to  be  derived  from  education,  and  that  he  had 
often  given  the  subject  his  serious  consideration,  but  that 
the  pale-faces  were  all  such  arrant  rascal^  that  he  was  afraid 
to  let  them  take  up  their  abode  with  his  people.  Where- 
upon Mr.  Folsom  suggested  to  him  that  probably  he  had 
met  with  only  the  bad  specimens  of  the  white  race,  and 
that  he  himself  had  known  very  many  good  men  among 
them  who  had  conferred  important  benefits  upon  the  Red 
Man. 

The  Comanche  replied  that  possibly  such  might  be  the 
case,  but  he  had  always  been  under  the  impression  that 
there  were  but  few,  if  any  honest  white  men.  He  said  far- 
ther, that  if  the  Chickasaws  would  send  out  one  of  their 
educated  men  to  teach  their  children  to  read  and  write, 
they  would  have  no  objections. 

Like  other  Indians,  they  submit  with  imperturbable  sto- 
icism and  apathy  to  misfortunes  of  the  most  serious  charac- 
ter, and,  in  the  presence  of  strangers,  manifest  no  surprise 
or  curiosity  at  the  exhibition  of  novelties ; yet  this  appar- 
ent indifference  is  assumed,  and  they  are,  in  reality,  very  in- 
quisitive people.  In  every  village  may  be  seen  small  struc- 
tures, consisting  of  a frame- work  of  slight  poles,  bent  into  a 
semi-spherical  form,  and  covered  with  buffalo  hides.  These 
are  called  medicine  lodges , and  are  used  as  vapor-baths.  The 
patient  is  seated  within  the  lodge,  beside  several  heated 
stones,  upon  which  water  is  thrown,  producing  a dense  hot 
vapor,  which  brings  on  a profuse  perspiration,  while,  at  the 
same  time,  the  shamans,  or  medicine-men,  who  profess  to 
have  the  power  of  communicating  with  the  unseen  world, 
and  of  propitiating  the  malevolence  of  evil  spirits,  are  per- 
forming various  incantations,  accompanied  by  music,  on  the 
outside.  Such  means  are  resorted  to  for  healing  all  dis- 
eases; and  I am  also  informed  that  their  young  men  are 
obliged  to  undergo  a regular  course  of  steam-bathing  before 


OPINIONS  OF  THEMSELVES. 


61 


they  are  considered  worthy  of  assuming  the  responsible  du- 
ties of  warriors.  The  knowledge  they  possess  of  their  early 
history  is  very  vague  and  limited,  and  does  not  extend  far- 
ther back  than  a few  generations.  They  say  that  their  fore- 
fathers lived  precisely  as  they  do,  and  followed  the  buffalo ; 
that  they  came  from  a country  toward  the  setting  sun, 
where  they  expect  to  return  after  death.  They  acknowl- 
edge the  existence  and  power  of  a great  supernatural  agent, 
who  directs  and  controls  all  things;  but  this  power  they 
conceive  to  be  vested  in  the  sun,  which  they  appeal  to  on 
all  occasions  of  moment. 

As  I remarked  before,  the  Northern  Comanches  are  fully 
impressed  with  the  conviction  that  theirs  is  the  most  pow- 
erful race  in  existence,  and  in  1854  some  of  their  chiefs 
sent  a message  to  the  commanding  officer  of  one  of  our 
military  posts  to  the  effect  that,  as  soon  as  the  grass  ap- 
peared in  the  spring,  he  intended  paying  him  a visit,  when 
he  might  expect  to  receive  a severe  whipping,  and  lose  all 
his  animals.  Shortly  afterward  the  post  was  abandoned, 
and  our  interpreter  informed  me  that  the  Indians  verily  be- 
lieved it  was  in  consequence  of  the  threat  they  had  made. 

The  question  as  to  what  line  of  policy  will  the  most 
speedily  and  effectually  bring  these  Indians  into  subjection 
to  the  dictates  of  our  authorities,  and  control  their  future 
movements,  is  one  fraught  with  difficulties,  but  must  sooner 
or  later  be  met. 

The  limits  of  their  accustomed  range  are  rapidly  con- 
tracting, and  their  means  of  subsistence  undergoing  a cor-" 
responding  diminution.  The  white  man  is  advancing  with 
rapid  strides  upon  all  sides  of  them,  and  they  are  forced  to 
give  way  to  his  encroachments.  The  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  the  buffaloes  will  become  extinct,  and  they  will  then 
be  compelled  to  adopt  some  other  mode  of  life  than  the 
chase  for  a subsistence. 


F 


62 


PROPER  POLICY. 


Excepting  a portion  of  the  Southern  Comanches,  they 
have  not  as  yet  taken  the  first  step  toward  civilization,  and 
are  entire  strangers  to  labor  or  husbandry.  The  Indians 
must  live,  and  when  the  Plains  will  not  afford  them  a main- 
tenance, they  will  unquestionably  seek  it  from  their  neigh- 
bors. No  man  will  quietly  submit  to  starvation  when  food 
is  within  his  reach,  and  if  he  can  not  obtain  it  honestly  he 
will  steal  it,  or  take  it  by  force.  If,  therefore,  we  do  not  in- 
duce them  to  engage  in  agricultural  avocations,  we  shall,  in 
a few  years,  have  before  us  the  alternative  of  exterminating 
the  race  or  feeding  them  perpetually. 

That  they  are  destined  ultimately  to  extinction  does  not, 
in  my  mind,  admit  of  a doubt,  and  it  may  be  beyond  the 
agency  of  human  control  to  avert  such  a result.  But  it 
seems  to  me  in  accordance  with  the  benevolent  spirit  of  our 
institutions  that  we  should  endeavor  to  make  the  pathway 
of  their  exit  from  the  sphere  of  human  existence  as  smooth 
and  easy  as  possible,  and  I know  no  more  effectual  way  of 
accomplishing  this  than  by  teaching  them  to  till  the  soil. 

For  the  reasons  before  mentioned,  it  may  at  first  be  nec- 
essary for  our  government  to  assert  its  authority  over  them 
by  a prompt  and  vigorous  exercise  of  the  military  arm,  and 
as  soon  as  this  is  felt  and  acknowledged,  the  fostering  hand 
of  government  should  be  kindly  extended  to  them,  and 
strong  inducements  offered  to  all  who  are  disposed  to  labor, 
and  every  assistance  given  them  upon  the  new  sphere  of 
action.  In  doing  this,  we  discharge  a debt  of  honor  to  the 
Red  Man,  and  confer  upon  him  benefits  of  vastly  more  im- 
portance than  by  giving  him  presents  of  money  and  goods, 
the  greater  part  of  which  are  oftentimes  stolen  by  corrupt 
agents  and  unprincipled  traders.  The  tendency  of  the 
policy  I have  indicated  will  be  to  assemble  these  people  in 
communities  where  they  will  be  more  readily  controlled, 
and  I predict  from  it  the  most  gratifying  results. 


TEXAS  RANGERS. 


63 


The  predatory  incursions  of  the  Northern  and  Middle 
Comanches  upon  the  western  borders  of  Texas  and  the 
northern  states  of  Mexico  were  carried  on  successfully  and 
uninterruptedly  for  many  years.  During  the  existence  of 
the  republic  of  Texas,  the  pioneers  of  that  country  were 
continually  harassed  by  bands  of  these  freebooters,  and  the 
result  of  their  efforts  shows  how  difficult  it  was  to  subdue 
them  in  war. 

From  1838  to  1842,  the  republic  was  involved  in  contin- 
ual hostilities  with  these  Indians,  and  during  a portion  of 
that  time  they  had  a large  force  in  the  field,  many  of  whom 
were  frontier  settlers,  whose  sinews  of  iron  and  frames  of 
oaken  firmness  had  undergone  such  a system  of  training 
that  they  were  enabled  to  set  at  defiance  the  vicissitudes  of 
the  most  capricious  climate,  and  were  capable  of  enduring 
almost  any  amount  of  exposure  and  fatigue.  These  men 
were  commanded  by  energetic  and  experienced  leaders,  and 
were  well  qualified  to  fill  their  stations. 

Thus  organized,  they  constituted  the  renowned  u Texas 
Rangers,”  who  are  to  this  day  held  up  by  their  statesmen 
as  examples  of  the  most  successful  Indian  fighters  that  our 
country  has  produced. 

The  operations  of  the  Rangers,  as  with  our  own  troops 
that  have  been  stationed  along  the  Rio  Grande  frontier, 
were  generally  directed  against  war-parties,  which  were  well 
mounted,  and  only  suffered  themselves  to  be  approached 
when  it  suited  their  purposes,  as  they  could  at  any  time 
make  their  escape  to  their  distant  homes  in  the  north, 
where  they  were  out  of  reach  from  pursuit. 

In  this  protracted  warfare  it  was  seldom  that  any  deci- 
sive advantages  were  gained  over  the  Indians,  and  after  ex- 
pending her  utmost  energies  in  the  vain  attempt  to  chastise 
them  into  subjection,  the  sparsely-populated  republic  was 
finally  compelled  to  resort  to  the  peace  policy. 


64 


KELIGION. 


One  of  the  most  prominent  features  in  the  religious 
creeds  of  the  natives  of  this  continent,  and  a coincidence 
of  faith  common  to  them  all,  so  far  as  I have  been  able  to 
learn,  is  the  remarkable  fact  that  they  universally  acknowl- 
edge the  existence  of,  and  pay  homage  to,  one  great  and 
almighty  Spirit. 

They  are  Theists  of  the  least  sensual  stamp ; and  that  they 
have  seldom,  if  ever,  been  idolaters,  is  a fact  that  is  well  es- 
tablished in  the  history  of  the  race  from  the  discovery  of 
America.  It  is  true  that  many  of  the  tribes  are  in  the 
habit  of  making  their  supplications  to  the  great  Disposer 
of  Events  through  the  medium  of  the  sun,  moon,  or  earth. 
This,  however,  is  only  true  so  far  as  these  media  are  to  be 
considered  as  symbolic  of  the  real  deity.  They  are  not  re- 
garded as  in  themselves  possessing  the  power  of  supreme 
divinity,  but  as  intermediate  agents  through  which  wish- 
es are  communicated  to  the  Creator. 

In  some  other  nations  of  the  Old  World  the  type  has 
sometimes  been  adopted  as  the  real  and  actual  deity  or  ob- 
ject of  worship. 

“Sun-worship”  seems  to  have  been  universal  over  the 
Old  World.  It  has  been  found  in  Egypt,  Chaldea,  Persia, 
Greece,  India,  Scandinavia,  Lapland,  Britain,  Germany,  and 
many  other  countries.  “The  fire  - worshipers”  had  been 
taught  by  their  fathers  to  worship  the  sun  and  the  fire,  as 
emblems  of  the  god  of  the  world.  They  ceased  to  look  be- 
yond the  emblem,  and  worshiped  it  as  the  real  deity.  In 
Mexico  and  Peru  the  Incas  and  priests  claimed  to  be  “chil- 
dren of  the  sun.”  But  the  Indians  of  North  America  have 
continued  to  look  beyond  the  symbol  to  the  being  it  repre- 
sented. They  have  never  been  idolaters.  They  have  nev- 
er worshiped  the  emblem  in  the  place  of  the  true  deity. 
And  still,  in  their  figurative  language,  they  often  speak  as 
if  they  considered  the  sun  as  their  god.  They  often  call 


RELIGION. 


65 


themselves  “children  of  the  sun,”  as  well  as  “souls  made 
of  fire,”  etc.  The  Indian  warrior  and  orator  Tecumseh,  at 
the  conclusion,  of  a speech,  was  told  that  his  “father,”  the 
Governor  of  Indiana,  desired  him  to  take  a chair.  He  re- 
jected it  with  scorn.  “My  father!”  said  the  indignant 
chief,  throwing  himself  on  the  ground ; “ the  sun  is  my  fa- 
ther, and  the  earth  is  my  mother,  and  I will  repose  upon 
her  bosom  !”* 

In  evidence  of  what  I have  stated,  I remark  that  Du 
Pratz  found  the  Indians  in  the  Mississippi  Valley  worship- 
ing a “ great  and  most  perfect  Spirit,  compared  with  whom 
all  other  things  were  as  nothing,  and  by  whom  all  things 
were  made.” 

Lewis  and  Clarke,  fifty  years  ago,  found  the  Indians  in- 
habiting the  Upper  Missouri  possessing  a religious  faith 
which  consisted  exclusively  in  a firm  belief  in  the  exist- 
ence of  “ one  great  Spirit ” who  ruled  the  destinies  of  men. 

Roger  Williams  expressed  the  conviction  that  if  any 
white  man  doubted  the  existence  of  the  God  of  the  uni- 
verse, “ the  Indians  could  teach  him.” 

The  venerable  missionary  Heckewelder,  after  forty  years’ 
residence  among  the  Delawares,  said  that  habitual  devotion 
to  the  Supreme  Being  was  one  of  the  most  prominent  traits 
in  the  mind  of  the  Red  Man. 

Notwithstanding  the  high  veneration  that  these  people 
entertain  for  the  Great  Spirit,  and  the  remarkable  fact  that 
among  those  I have  known  there  is  nothing  in  their  vocab- 
ularies that  enables  them  to  give  oral  expression  to  an 
oath,  yet,  as  strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  first  expressions 
they  learn  after  coming  in  contact  with  the  white  race  are 
invariably  those  of  profanity  and  obscenity,  and  this  can 
only  be  accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  their  earliest  asso- 

* Theology  of  the  American  Indians,  National  Quarterly  Review,  June, 
1863. 

F* 


66 


CIVILIZATION. 


ciations  among  the  whites  are  with  unprincipled  Indian 
-traders  and  immoral  frontiersmen,  who  teach  them  all  our 
vices,  and  none  of  our  virtues. 

Most  of  the  Eastern  tribes  of  Indians  have,  through  the 
efforts  of  missionaries  and  philanthropists,  been  taught  the 
rudiments  of  our  revealed  religion,  and  many  of  them  have 
been  worthy  Christians,  exercising  a good  influence  over 
their  red  brethren.  But  thus  far,  no  such  efforts  have  ever 
been  made  to  improve  the  moral  of  physical  condition  of 
the  Comanches;  no  missionaries  have,  to  my  knowledge, 
ever  visited  them,  and  they  have  no  more  idea  of  Christian- 
ity than  they  have  of  the  religion  of  Mohammed.  We  find 
dwelling  almost  at  our  doors  as  barbarous  and  heathenish 
a race  as  exists  on  the  face  of  the  earth ; and  while  our  be- 
nevolent and  philanthropic  citizens  are  making  such  efforts 
to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  savages  in  other  countries, 
should  we  not  do  something  for  the  benefit  of  these  wild 
men  of  the  prairies?  Those  dingy  noblemen  of  nature,  the 
original  proprietors  of  all  that  vast  domain  included  be- 
tween the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  have  been  de- 
spoiled, supplanted,  and  robbed  of  their  just  and  legitimate 
heritage  by  the  avaricious  and  rapid  encroachments  of  the 
white  man.  Numerous  and  powerful  nations  have  already 
become  exterminated  by  unjustifiable  wars  that  he  has 
waged  with  them,  and  by  the  effects  of  the  vices  he  has  in- 
troduced and  inculcated  ; and  of  those  that  remain,  but  few 
can  be  found  who  are  not  contaminated  by  the  pernicious 
influences  of  unprincipled  and  designing  adventurers.  It 
is  not  at  this  late  day  in  our  power  to  atone  for  all  the  in- 
justice inflicted  upon  the  Red  Men;  but  it  seems  to  me  that 
a wise  policy  would  dictate  almost  the  only  recompense  it 
is  now  in  our  power  to  make — that  of  introducing  among 
them  the  light  of  Christianity  and  the  blessings  of  civiliza- 
tion, with  their  attendant  benefits  of  agriculture  and  the 
arts. 


CIVILIZED  WARFARE. 


67 


CHAPTER  III. 

INDIAN  WARFARE. 

Indian  Warfare. — French  Army  in  Algeria. — Turkish  Method  of  Warfare. 
— Tracking  Indians. — Telegraphing  by  Smokes. — Delawares,  Shawnees, 
and  Kickapoos. — Guides  in  the  Great  Desert. — The  Khebir. — Delaware’s 
Idea  of  the  Compass. — Black  Beaver. — Jealousy  of  his  Wife. — Coman- 
che’s Ideas  of  the  Whites. — John  Bushman. — Marriage  Relations. — Jim 
Ned. — Great  Horse-thief. — Comanche  Law. — Juan  Galvan. — Kickapoos 
good  Hunters. — Respect  for  Law. 

The  art  of  war,  as  taught  and  practiced  among  civilized 
nations  at  the  present  day,  is  no  doubt  well  adapted  to  the 
purposes  for  which  it  was  designed,  viz.,  the  operations  of 
armies  acting  in  populated  districts,  furnishing  ample  re- 
sources, and  against  an  enemy  who  is  tangible,  and  makes 
use  of  similar  tactics  and  strategy.  But  the  modern  schools 
of  military  science  are  but  illy  suited  to  carrying  on  a war- 
fare with  the  wild  tribes  of  the  Plains. 

The  vast  expanse  of  desert  territory  that  has  been  an- 
nexed to  our  domain  within  the  last  few  years  is  peopled 
by  numerous  tribes  of  marauding  and  erratic  savages,  who 
are  mounted  upon  fleet  and  hardy  horses,  making  war  the 
business  and  pastime  of  their  lives,  and  acknowledging 
none  of  the  ameliorating  conventionalities  of  civilized  war- 
fare. Their  tactics  are  such  as  to  render  the  old  system  al- 
most wholly  impotent. 

To  act  against  an  enemy  who  is  here  to-day  and  there 
to-morrow;  who  at  one  time  stampedes  a herd  of  mules 
upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  and  when  next 
heard  from  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  populated  districts 
of  Mexico,  laying  waste  haciendas,  and  carrying  devasta- 


68 


TRUE  MILITARY  POLICY. 


tion,  rapine,  and  murder  in  his  steps ; who  is  every  where 
without  being  any  where ; who  assembles  at  the  moment 
of  combat,  and  vanishes  whenever  fortune  turns  against 
him ; who  leaves  his  women  and  children  far  distant  from 
the  theatre  of  hostilities,  and  has  neither  towns  nor  maga- 
zines to  defend,  nor  lines  of  retreat  to  cover ; who  derives 
his  commissariat  from  the  country  he  operates  in,  and  is 
not  encumbered  with  baggage-wagons  or  pack-trains ; who 
comes  into  action'  only  when  it  suits  his  purpose,  and  never 
without  the  advantage  of  numbers  or  position — with  such 
an  enemy  the  strategic  science  of  civilized  nations  loses 
much  of  its  importance,  and  finds  but  rarely,  and  only  in 
peculiar  localities,  an  opportunity  to  be  put  in  practice. 

Our  little  army,  scattered  as  it  has  been  over  the  vast 
area  of  our  possessions,  in  small  garrisons  of  one  or  two 
companies  each,  has  seldom  been  in  a situation  to  act  suc- 
cessfully on  the  offensive  against  large  numbers  of  these 
marauders,  and  has  often  been  condemned  to  hold  itself  al- 
most exclusively  upon  the  defensive.  The  morale  of  the 
troops  must  thereby  necessarily  be  seriously  impaired,  and 
the  confidence  of  the  savages  correspondingly  augmented. 
The  system  of  small  garrisons  has  a tendency  to  disorganize 
the  troops  in  proportion  as  they  are  scattered,  and  renders 
them  correspondingly  inefficient.  The  same  results  have 
been  observed  by  the  French  army  in  Algeria,  where,  in 
1845,  their  troops  were,  like  ours,  disseminated  over  a vast 
space,  and  broken  up  into  small  detachments  stationed  in 
numerous  intrenched  posts.  Upon  the  sudden  appearance 
of  Abd  el  Kader  in  the  plain  of  Mitidja,  they  were  defeat- 
ed with  serious  losses,  and  were  from  day  to  day  obliged 
to  abandon  these  useless  stations,  with  all  the  supplies  they 
contained.  A French  writer,  in  discussing  this  subject, 
says: 

“We  have  now  abandoned  the  fatal  idea  of  defending 


FRENCH  IN  ALGERIA. 


69 


Algeria  by  small  intrenched  posts.  In  studying  the  char- 
acter of  the  war,  the  nature  of  the  men  who  are  to  op- 
pose us,  and  of  the  country  in  which  we  are  to  operate,  we 
must  be  convinced  of  the  danger  of  admitting  any  other 
system  of  fortification  than  that  which  is  to  receive  our 
grand  depots,  our  magazines,  and  to  serve  as  places  to  re- 
cruit and  rest  our  troops  when  exhausted  by  long  expedi- 
tionary movements. 

“ These  fortifications  should  be  established  in  the  midst 
of  the  centres  of  action,  so  as  to  command  the  principal 
routes,  and  serve  as  pivots  to  expeditionary  columns. 

“We  owe  our  success  to  a system  of  war  which  has  its 
proofs  in  twice  changing  our  relations  with  the  Arabs. 
This  system  consists  altogether  in  the  great  mobility  we 
have  given  to  our  troops.  Instead  of  disseminating  our 
soldiers  with  the  vain  hope  of  protecting  our  frontiers  with 
a line  of  small  posts,  we  have  concentrated  them,  to  have 
them  at  all  times  ready  for  emergencies,  and  since  then  the 
fortune  of  the  Arabs  has  waned,  and  we  have  marched 
from  victory  to  victory. 

“This  system,  which  has  thus  far  succeeded,  ought  to 
succeed  always,  and  to  conduct  us,  Grod  willing,  to  the 
peaceful  possession  of  the  country.” 

In  reading  a treatise  upon  war  as  it  is  practiced  by  the 
French  in  Algeria,  by  Colonel  A.  Laure,  of  the  2d  Alge- 
rine Tirailleurs,  published  in  Paris  in  1858, 1 was  struck 
with  the  remarkable  similarity  between  the  habits  of  the 
Arabs  and  those  of  the  wandering  tribes  that  inhabit  our 
Western  prairies.  Their  manner  of  making  war  is  almost 
precisely  the  same,  and  a successful  system  of  strategic 
operations  for  one  will,  in  my  opinion,  apply  to  the  other. 

As  the  Turks  have  been  more  successful  than  the  French 
in  their  military  operations  against  the  Arab  tribes,  it  may 
not  be  altogether  uninteresting  to  inquire  by  what  means 


70 


TURKISH  SOLDIERS. 


these  inferior  soldiers  have  accomplished  the  best  re- 
sults. 

The  author  above  mentioned,  in  speaking  upon  this  sub- 
ject, says: 

“ In  these  latter  days  the  world  is  occupied  with  the  or- 
ganization of  mounted  infantry,  according  to  the  example 
of  the  Turks,  where,  in  the  most  successful  experiments 
that  have  been  made,  the  mule  carries  the  foot-soldier. 

“ The  Turkish  soldier  mounts  his  mule,  puts  his  provi- 
sions upon  one  side  and  his  accoutrements  upon  the  other, 
and,  thus  equipped,  sets  out  upon  long  marches,  traveling 
day  and  night,  and  only  reposing  occasionally  in  bivouac. 
Arrived  near  the  place  of  operations  (as  near  the  break  of 
day  as  possible),  the  Turks  dismount  in  the  most  profound 
silence,  and  pass  in  succession  the  bridle  of  one  mule  through 
that  of  another  in  such  a manner  that  a single  man  is  suffi- 
cient to  hold  forty  or  fifty  of  them  by  retaining  the  last 
bridle,  which  secures  all  the  others;  they  then  examine 
their  arms,  and  are  ready  to  commence  their  work.  The 
chief  gives  his  last  orders,  posts  his  guides,  and  they  make 
the  attack,  surprise  the  enemy,  generally  asleep,  and  carry 
the  position  without  resistance.  The  operation  terminated, 
they  hasten  to  beat  a retreat,  to  prevent  the  neighboring 
tribes  from  assembling,  and  thus  avoid  a combat. 

u The  rpUIk:S  had  only  three  thousand  mounted  men  and 
ten  thousand  infantry  in  Algeria,  yet  these  thirteen  thou- 
sand men  sufficed  to  conquer  the  same  obstacles  which 
have  arrested  us  for  twenty-six  years,  notwithstanding  the 
advantage  we  had  of  an  army  which  was  successively  re- 
enforced until  it  amounted  to  a hundred  thousand. 

“ Why  not  imitate  the  Turks,  then,  mount  our  infantry 
upon  mules,  and  reduce  the  strength  of  our  army  ? 

“ The  response  is  very  simple : 

“ The  Turks  are  Turks — that  is  to  say,  Mussulmans — 


ARABS. 


71 


and  indigenous  to  the  country;  the  Turks  speak  the  Arabic 
language;  the  Deys  of  Algiers  had  less  country  to  guard 
than  we,  and  they  care  very  little  about  retaining  possession 
of  it.  They  are  satisfied  to  receive  a part  of  its  revenues. 
They  were  not  permanent ; their  dominion  was  held  by  a 
thread.  The  Arab  dwells  in  tents;  his  magazines  are  in 
caves.  When  he  starts  upon  a war  expedition,  he  folds 
his  tent,  drives  far  away  his  beasts  of  burden,  which  trans- 
port his  effects,  and  only  carries  with  him  his  horse  and 
arms.  Thus  equipped,  he  goes  every  where ; nothing  ar- 
rests him ; and  often,  when  we  believe  him  twenty  leagues 
distant,  he  is  in  ambush  at  precisely  rifle  range  from  the 
flanks  of  his  enemy. 

“It  may  be  thought  the  union  of  contingents  might  re- 
tard their  movements,  but  this  is  not  so.  The  Arabs,  wheth- 
er they  number  ten  or  a hundred  thousand,  move  with 
equal  facility.  They  go  where  they  wish  and  as  they  wish 
upon  a campaign ; the  place  of  rendezvous  merely  is  indi- 
cated, and  they  arrive  there. 

“ What  calculations  can  be  made  against  such  an  organi- 
zation as  this  ? 

“Strategy  evidently  loses  its  advantages  against  such 
enemies ; a general  can  only  make  conjectures ; he  marches 
to  find  the  Arabs,  and  finds  them  not ; then,  again,  when 
he  least  expects  it,  he  suddenly  encounters  them. 

“ When  the  Arab  despairs  of  success  in  battle,  he  places 
his  sole  reliance  upon  the  speed  of  his  horse  to  escape  de- 
struction : and  as  he  is  always  in  a country  where  he  can 
make  his  camp  beside  a little  water,  he  travels  until  he  has 
placed  a safe  distance  between  himself  and  his  enemy.” 

TRACKING  INMANS. 

When  an  Indian  sentinel  intends  to  watch  for  an  enemy 
approaching  from  the  rear,  he  selects  the  highest  position 


72 


TRAILING  INDIANS. 


available,  and  places  himself  near  the  summit  in  such  an 
attitude  that  his  entire  body  shall  be  concealed  from  the 
observation  of  any  one  in  the  rear,  his  head  only  being  ex- 
posed above  the  top  of  the  eminence.  Here  he  awaits  with 
great  patience  so  long  as  he  thinks  there  is  any  possibility 
of  danger,  and  it  will  be  difficult  for  an  enemy  to  surprise 
him  or  to  elude  his  keen  and  scrutinizing  vigilance.  Mean- 
while his  horse  is  secured  under  the  screen  of  the  hill,  all 
ready  when  required.  Hence  it  will  be  evident  that,  in 
following  Indian  depredators,  the  utmost  vigilance  and  cau- 
tion must  be  exercised  to  conceal  from  them  the  movements 
of  their  pursuers.  They  are  the  best  scouts  in  the  world, 
proficient  in  all  the  artifices  and  stratagems  available  in  bor- 
der warfare,  and  when  hotly  pursued  by  a superior  force, 
after  exhausting  all  other  means  of  evasion,  they  scatter  in 
different  directions;  and  if,  in  a broken  or  mountainous 
country,  they  can  do  no  better,  abandon  their  horses  and 
baggage,  and  take  refuge  in  the  rocks,  gorges,  or  other  hid- 
ing-places. This  plan  has  several  times  been  resorted  to 
by  Indians  in  Texas  when  surprised,  and,  notwithstanding 
their  pursuers  were  directly  upon  them,  the  majority  made 
their  escape,  leaving  behind  all  their  animals  and  other 
property. 

For  overtaking  a marauding  party  of  Indians  who  have 
advanced  eight  or  ten  hours  before  the  pursuing  party  are 
in  readiness  to  take  the  trail,  it  is  not  best  to  push  forward 
rapidly  at  first,  as  this  will  weary  and  break  down  horses. 
The  Indians  must  be  supposed  to  have  at  least  fifty  or  sixty 
miles  the  start ; it  will,  therefore,  be  useless  to  think  of  over- 
taking them  without  providing  for  a long  chase.  Scouts 
should  continually  be  kept  out  in  front  upon  the  trail  to  re- 
connoitre and  give  preconcerted  signals  to  the  main  party 
when  the  Indians  are  espied. 

In  approaching  all  eminences  or  undulations  in  the  prai- 


INDIAN  FIGHTING. 


73 


ries,  the  commander  should  be  careful  not  to  allow  any  con- 
siderable number  of  his  men  to  pass  upon  the  summits  un- 
til the  country  around  has  been  carefully  reconnoitred  by 
the  scouts,  who  will  cautiously  raise  their  eyes  above  the 
crests  of  the  most  elevated  points,  making  a scrutinizing 
examination  in  all  directions ; and,  while  doing  this,  should 
an  Indian  be  encountered  who  has  been  left  behind  as  a 
sentinel,  he  must,  if  possible,  be  secured  or  shot,  to  prevent 
his  giving  the  alarm  to  his  comrades.  These  precautions 
can  not  be  too  rigidly  enforced  when  the  trail  becomes 
“ warm and  if  there  be  a moon,  it  will  be  better  to  lie  by 
in  the  daytime  and  follow  the  trail  at  night,  as  the  great 
object  is  to  come  upon  the  Indians  when  they  are  not  an- 
ticipating an  attack.  Such  surprises,  if  discreetly  conduct- 
ed, generally  prove  successful. 

As  soon  as  the  Indians  are  discovered  in  their  bivouac, 
the  pursuing  party  should  dismount,  leave  their  horses  un- 
der charge  of  a guard  in  some  sequestered  place,  and,  be- 
fore advancing  to  the  attack,  the  men  should  be  instructed 
in  signals  for  their  different  movements,  such  as  all  will 
easily  comprehend  and  remember.  As,  for  example,  a pull 
upon  the  right  arm  may  signify  to  face  to  the  right,  and  a 
pull  upon  the  left  arm  to  face  to  the  left ; a pull  upon  the 
skirt  of  the  coat,  to  halt ; a gentle  push  on  the  back,  to  ad- 
vance in  ordinary  time ; a slap  on  the  back,  to  advance  in 
double  quick  time,  etc.,  etc. 

These  signals,  having  been  previously  well  understood 
and  practiced,  may  be  given  by  the  commander  to  the  man 
next  to  him,  and  from  him  communicated  in  rapid  succes- 
sion throughout  the  command. 

I will  suppose  the  party  formed  in  one  rank,  with  the 
" commander  on  the  right.  He  gives  the  signal,  and  the 
men  move  off  cautiously  in  the  direction  indicated.  The 
importance  of  not  losing  sight  of  his  comrades  on  his  right 


74-  - 


INDIAN  FIGHTING. 


and  left,  and  of  not  allowing  them  to  get  out  of  his  reach, 
so  as  to  break  the  chain  of  communication,  will  be  apparent 
to  all,  and  great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  men  do  not 
mistake  their  brothers  in  arms  for  the  enemy.  This  may 
be  prevented  by  having  two  pass-words , and  when  there  be 
any  doubt  as  to  the  identity  of  two  men  who  meet  during 
the  night  operations,  one  of  these  words  may  be  repeated 
by  each.  Above  all,  the  men  must  be  fully  impressed  with 
the  importance  of  not  firing  a shot  until  the  order  is  given 
by  the  commanding  officer,  and  also  that  a rigorous  person- 
al accountability  will  be  enforced  in  all  cases  of  a violation 
of  this  rule. 

If  the  commander  gives  the  signal  for  commencing  the 
attack  by  firing  a pistol  or  gun,  there  will  probably  be  no 
mistake,  unless  it  happens 'through  carelessness  by  the^acci- 
dental  discharge  of  fire-arms. 

I can  conceive  of  nothing  more  appalling,  or  that  tends 
more  to  throw  men  off  their  guard  and  produce  confusion, 
than  a sudden  and  unexpected  night-attack.  Even  the  In- 
dians, who  pride  themselves  upon  their  coolness  and  self- 
possession,  are  far  from  being  exempt  from  its  effects  ; and 
it  is  not  surprising  that  men  who  go  to  sleep  with  a sense 
of  perfect  security  around  them,  and  are  suddenly  aroused 
from  a deep  slumber  by  the  terrific  sounds  of  an  onslaught 
from  an  enemy,  should  lose  their  presence  of  mind. 

TELEGRAPHING  BY  SMOKES. 

The  transparency  of  the  atmosphere  upon  the  Plains  is 
such  that  objects  can  be  seen  at  great  distances ; a mount- 
ain, for  example,  presents  a distinct  and  bold  outline  at  fifty 
or  sixty  miles,  and  may  occasionally  be  seen  as  far  as  a 
hundred  miles. 

The  Indians,  availing  themselves  of  this  fact,  have  been 
in  the  habit  of  practicing  a system  of  telegraphing  by 


TELEGRAPHING. 


. 75 


means  of  smokes  during  the  day  and  fires  by  night,  and,  I 
dare  say,  there  are  but  few  travelers  who  have  crossed  the 
mountains  to  California  that  have  not  seen  these  signals 
made  and  responded  to  from  peak  to  peak  in  rapid  succes- 
sion. 

The  Indians  thus  make  known  to  their  friends  many 
items  of  information  highly  important  to  them.  If  enemies 
or  strangers  make  their  appearance  in  the  country,  the  fact 
is  telegraphed  at  once,  giving  them  time  to  secure  their  ani- 
mals, and  to  prepare  for  attack,  defense,  or  flight. 

War  or-hunting  parties,  after  having  been  absent  a long 
time  from  their  erratic  friends  at  home,  and  not  knowing 
where  to  find  them,  make  use  of  the  same  preconcerted  sig- 
nals to  indicate  their  presence. 

Yery  dense  smokes  may  be  raised  by  kindling  a large 
fire  with  dry  wood,  and  piling  upon  it  the  green  boughs  of 
pine,  balsam,  or  hemlock.  This  throws  off  a heavy  cloud 
of  black  smoke  which  can  be  seen  very  far. 

This  simple  method  of  telegraphing,  so  useful  to  the  sav- 
ages both  in  war  and  in  peace,  may,  in  my  judgment,  be 
used  to  advantage  in  the  movements  of  troops  co-operating 
in  separate  columns  in  the  Indian  country. 

I shall  not  attempt  at  this  time  to  present  a matured  sys- 
tem of  signals,  but  will  merely  give  a few  suggestions  tend- 
ing to  illustrate  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  use 
of  them. 

For  example,  when  two  columns  are  marching  through 
a country  at  such  distances  apart  that  smokes  may  be  seen 
from  one  to  the  other,  their  respective  positions  may  be 
made  known  to  each  other  at  any  time  by  two  smokes 
raised  simultaneously  or  at  certain  preconcerted  intervals. 

Should  the  commander  of  one  column  desire  to  commu- 
nicate with  the  other,  he  raises  three  smokes  simultaneous- 
ly, which,  if  seen  by  the  other  party,  should  be  responded 


76  • 


SIGNALS. 


to  in  the  same  manner.  They  would  then  hold  themselves 
in  readiness  for  any  other  communications. 

If  an  enemy  is  discovered  in  small  numbers,  a smoke 
raised  twice  at  fifteen  minutes’  interval  would  indicate  it ; 
and  if  in  large  force,  three  times  with  the  same  intervals 
might  be  the  signal. 

Should  the  commander  of  one  party  desire  the  other  to 
join  him,  this  might  be  telegraphed  by  four  smokes  at  ten 
minutes’  interval. 

Should  it  become  necessary  to  change  the  direction  of 
the  line  of  march,  the  commander  may  transmit  the  order 
by  means  of  two  simultaneous  smokes  raised  a certain 
number  of  times  to  indicate  the  particular  direction;  for 
instance,  twice  for  north,  three  times  for  south,  four  times 
for  east,  and  five  times  for  west ; three  smokes  raised  twice 
for  northeast,  three  times  for  northwest,  etc.,  etc. 

By  multiplying  the  combinations  of  signals  a great  vari- 
ety of  messages  might  be  transmitted  in  this  manner ; but, 
to  avoid  mistakes,  the  signals  should  be  written  down  and 
copies  furnished  the  commander  of  each  separate  party, 
and  they  need  not  necessarily  be  made  known  to  other  per- 
sons. 

During  the  day  an  intelligent  man  should  be  detailed  to 
keep  a vigilant  look-out  in  all  directions  for  smokes,  and 
he  should  be  furnished  with  a watch,  pencil,  and  paper,  to 
make  a record  of  the  signals,  with  their  number,  and  the 
time  of  the  interval  between  them. 

DELAWARES,  SHAWNEES,  AND  KICKAPOOS. 

It  is  highly  important  that  parties  making  expeditions 
through  an  unexplored  country  should  secure  the  services 
of  the  best  guides  and  hunters,  and  I know  of  none  who 
are  superior  to  the  Delawares  and  Shawnee  Indians.  They 
have  been  with  me  upon  several  different  occasions,  and  I 


KHEBIRS. 


. 77 


fiave  invariably  found  them  intelligent,  brave,  reliable,  and 
in  every  respect  well  qualified  to  fill  their  positions.  They 
are  endowed  with  those  keen  and  wonderful  powers  in 
woodcraft  which  can  only  be  acquired  by  instinct,  practice, 
and  necessity,  and  which  are  possessed  by  no  other  people 
that  I have  heard  of,  unless  it  be  the  khebirs  or  guides  who 
escort  the  caravans  across  the  great  desert  of  Sahara. 

General  E.  Dumas,  in  his  treatise  upon  the  “ Great  Des- 
ert,” published  in  Paris,  1856,  in  speaking  of  these  guides, 
says: 

“The  khebir  is  always  a man  of  intelligence,  of  tried 
probity,  bravery,  and  skill.  He  knows  how  to  determine 
his  position  from  the  appearance  of  the  stars ; by  the  expe- 
rience of  other  journeys  he  has  learned  all  about  the  roads, 
wells,  and  pastures ; the  dangers  of  certain  passes,  and  the 
means  of  avoiding  them ; all  the  chiefs  whose  territories  it 
is  necessary  to  pass  through ; the  salubrity  of  the  different 
localities ; the  remedies  against  diseases ; the  treatment  of 
fractures,  and  the  antidotes  to  the  venom  of  snakes  and 
scorpions. 

“In  these  vast  solitudes,  where  nothing  seems  to  indi- 
cate the  route,  where  the  wind  covers  up  all  traces  of  the 
track  with  sand,  the  khebir  has  a thousand  ways  of  direct- 
ing himself  in  the  right  course.  In  the  night,  when  there 
are  no  stars  in  sight,  by  the  simple  inspection  of  a handful 
of  grass,  which  he  examines  with  his  fingers,  which  he 
smells  and  tastes,  he  informs  himself  of  his  locale  without 
ever  being  lost  or  wandering. 

“ I saw  with  astonishment  that  our  conductor,  although 
he  had  but  one  eye,  and  that  defective,  recognized  perfectly 
the  route ; and  Leon,  the  African,  states  that  the  conductor 
of  his  caravan  became  blind  upon  the  journey  from  oph- 
thalmia, yet  by. feeling  the  grass  and  sand  he  could  tell 
when  we  were  approaching  an  inhabited  place. 

G* 


78 


DELAWARES. 


“Oar  guide  had  all  the  qualities  which  make  a good 
khebir.  He  was  young,  large,  and  strong ; he  was  a mas- 
ter of  arms;  his  eye  commanded  respect,  and  his  speech 
won  the  heart.  But  if  in  the  tent  he  was  affable  and  win- 
ning, once  en  route  he  spoke  only  when  it  was  necessary, 
and  never  smiled.” 

The  Delawares  are  but  a minute  remnant  of  the  great 
Algonquin  family,  whose  early  traditions  declare  them  to 
be  the  parent  stock  from  which  the  other  numerous  branch- 
es of  the  Algonquin  tribes  originated.  And  they  are  the 
same  people  whom  the  first  white  settlers  found  so  numer- 
ous upon  the  banks  of  the  Delaware. 

When  William  Penn  held  his  council  with  the  Delawares 
upon  the  ground  where  the  city  of  Philadelphia  now  stands, 
they  were  as  peaceful  and  unwarlike  in  their  habits  as  the 
Quakers  themselves.  They  had  been  subjugated  by  the 
Five  Nations,  forced  to  take  the  appellation  of  squaws,  and 
forego  the  use  of  arms ; but  after  they  moved  West,  beyond 
the  influence  of  their  former  masters,  their  naturally  inde- 
pendent spirit  revived,  they  soon  regained  their  lofty  posi- 
tion as  braves  and  warriors,  and  the  male  squaws  of  the 
Iroquois  soon  became  formidable  men  and  heroes,  and  so 
have  continued  to  the  present  day.  Their  war-path  has 
reached  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  Hud- 
son’s Bay  on  the  north,  and  into  the  very  heart  of  Mexico 
on  the  south. 

They  are  not  clannish  in  their  dispositions  like  most  oth- 
er Indians,  nor  by  their  habits  confined  to  any  given  local- 
ity, but  are  found  as  traders,  trappers,  or  hunters  among 
most  of  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  our  continent.  I even 
saw  them  living  with  the  Mormons  in  Utah. ' They  are 
among  the  Indians  as  the  Jews  among  the  whites,  essential- 
ly wanderers. 

The  Shawnees  have  been  associated  with  the  Delawares 


THE  COMPASS. 


79 


185  years.  They  intermarry  and  live  as  one  people.  Their 
present  places  of  abode  are  upon  the  Missouri  River,  near 
Fort  Leavenworth,  and  in  the  Choctaw  Territory,  upon  the 
Canadian  River,  near  Fort  Arbuckle.  They  are  familiar 
with  many  of  the  habits  and  customs  of  their  pale  - faced 
neighbors,  and  some  of  them  speak  the  English  language, 
yet  many  of  their  native  characteristics  tenaciously  cling  to 
them. 

Upon  one  occasion  I endeavored  to  teach  a Delaware  the 
use  of  the  compass.  He  seemed  much  interested  in  its 
mechanism,  and  very  attentively  observed  the  oscillations 
of  the  needle.  He  would  move  away  a short  distance,  then 
return,  keeping  his  eyes  continually  fixed  upon  the  needle 
and  the  uniform  position  into  which  it  settled.  He  did  not, 
however,  seem  to  comprehend  it  in  the  least,  but  regarded 
the  entire  proceeding  as  a species  of  necromantic  perform- 
ance got  up  for  his  especial  benefit,  and  I was  about  put- 
ting away  the  instrument  when  he  motioned  me  to  stop, 
and  came  walking  toward  it  with  a very  serious  but  incred- 
ulous countenance,  remarking,  as  he  pointed  his  finger  to- 
ward it,  “Maybe  so  he  tell  lie  sometime.” 

BLACK  BEAVER. 

In  1849  I met  with  a very  interesting  specimen  of  the 
Delaware  tribe  whose  name  was  Black  Beaver.  He  had  for 
ten  years  been  in  the  employ  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, and  during  this  time  had  visited  nearly  every  point 
of  interest  within  the  limits  of  our  unsettled  territory.  He 
had  set  his.  traps  and  spread  his  blanket  upon  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia ; and  his  wanderings  had 
led  him  south  to  the  Colorado  and  Gila,  and  thence  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific  in  Southern  California.  His  life  had 
been  that  of  a veritable  cosmopolite,  filled  with  scenes  of 
intense  and  startling  interest,  bold  and  reckless  adventure. 


80 


DELAWARE  CHARGE. 


He  was  with  me  two  seasons  in  the  capacity  of  guide,  and 
I always  found  him  perfectly  reliable,  brave,  and  compe- 
tent. His  reputation  as  a resolute,  determined,  and  fearless 
warrior  did  not  admit  of  question,  yet  I have  never  seen  a 
man  who  wore  his  laurels  with  less  vanity. 

When  I first  made  his  acquaintance  I was  puzzled  to 
know  what  to  think  of  him.  He  would  often,  in  speaking 
of  the  prairie  Indians,  say  to  me, 

“ Captain,  if  you  have  a fight,  you  mustn’t  count  much 
on  me,  for  I’ze  a big  coward.  When  the  fight  begins  I 
’spect  you’ll  see  me  run  under  the  cannon;  Injun  mighty 
’fraid  of  big  gun.” 

I expressed  my  surprise  that  he  should,  if  what  he  told 
me  was  true,  have  gained  such  a reputation  as  a warrior ; 
whereupon  he  informed  me  that  many  years  previous,  when 
he  was  a young  man,  and  before  he  had  ever  been  in  battle, 
he,  with  about  twenty  white  men  and  four  Delawares,  were 
at  one  of  the  Fur  Company’s  trading-posts  upon  the  Upper 
Missouri,  engaged  in  trapping  beaver.  While  there,  the 
stockade  fort  was  attacked  by  a numerous  band  of  Black- 
feet  Indians,  who  fought  bravely,  and  seemed  determined  to 
annihilate  the  little  band  that  defended  it. 

After  the  investment  had  been  completed,  and  there  ap- 
peared no  probability  of  the  attacking  party’s  abandoning 
their  purpose, “ One  d — d fool  Delaware”  (as  Black  Beaver 
expressed  it)  proposed  to  his  countrymen  to  make  a sortie, 
and  thereby  endeavor  to  effect  an  impression  upon  the 
Blackfeet.  This,  Beaver  said,  was  the  last  thing  he  would 
ever  have  thought  of  suggesting,  and  it  startled  him  prodig- 
iously, causing  him  to  tremble  so  much  that  it  was  with 
difficulty  he  could  stand. 

He  had,  however,  started  from  home  with  the  fixed  pur- 
pose of  becoming  a distinguished  brave,  and  made  a great 
effort  to  stifle  his  emotion.  He  assumed  an  air  of  determ- 


A BRAVE  MAN. 


81 


ination,  saying  that  was  the  very  idea  he  was  just  about  to 
propose ; and,  slapping  his  comrades  upon  the  back,  started 
toward  the  gate,  telling  them  to  follow.  As  soon  as  the 
gate  was  passed,  he  says,  he  took  particular  care  to  keep  in 
the  rear  of  the  others,  so  that,  in  the  event  of  a retreat,  he 
would  be  able  to  reach  the  stockade  first. 

They-  had  not  proceeded  far  before  a perfect  shower  of 
arrows  came  falling  around  them  on  all  sides,  but  fortu- 
nately without  doing  them  harm.  Not  fancying  this  hot 
reception,  those  in  front  proposed  an  immediate  retreat,  to 
which  he  most  gladly  acceded,  and  at  once  set  off  at  his  ut- 
most speed,  expecting  to  reach  the  fort  first.  But  he  soon 
discovered  that  his  comrades  were  more  fleet,  and  were 
rapidly  passing  and  leaving  him  behind.  Suddenly  he 
stopped  and  called  out  to  them,  “ Come  back  here,  you 
cowards,  you  squaws;  what  for  you  run  away  and  leave 
brave  man  to  fight  alone  ?”  This  taunting  appeal  to  their 
courage  turned  them  back,  and,  with  their  united  efforts, 
they  succeeded  in  beating  off  the  enemy  immediately 
around  them,  securing  their  entrance  into  the  fort. 

Beaver  says  when  the  gate  was  closed  the  captain  in 
charge  of  the  establishment  grasped  him  warmly  by  the 
hand,  saying,  “ Black  Beaver,  you  are  a brave  man ; you 
have  done  this  day  what  no  other  man  in  the  fort  would 
have  the  courage  to  do,  and  I thank  you  from  the  bottom 
of  my  heart.” 

In  relating  the  circumstance  to  me  he  laughed  most 
heartily,  thinking  it  a very  good  joke,  and  said  after  that 
he  was  regarded  as  a brave  warrior. 

T'he  truth  is,  my  friend  Beaver  was  one  of  those  few  he- 
roes who  never  sounded  his  own  trumpet ; yet  no  one  that 
knows  him  ever  presumed  to  question  his  courage. 

At  another  time,  while  Black  Beaver  remained  upon  the 
head  waters  of  the  Missouri,  he  was  left  in  charge  of  a 


82 


BLACK  BEAVER. 


“cache”  consisting  of  a quantity  of  goods  buried  to  prevent 
their  being  stolen  by  the  Indians.  During  the  time  he  was 
engaged  upon  this  duty  he  amused  himself  by  hunting  in 
the  vicinity,  only  visiting  his  charge  once  a day.  As  he 
was  making  one  of  these  periodical  visits,  and  had  arrived 
upon  the  summit  of  a hill  overlooking  the  locality,  he  sud- 
denly discovered  a large  number  of  hostile  Blackfeet  occu- 
pying it,  and  he  supposed  they  had  appropriated  all  the 
goods.  As  soon  as  they  espied  him,  they  beckoned  for  him 
to  come  down  and  have  a friendly  chat  with  them. 

Knowing  that  their  purpose  was  to  beguile  him  into  their 
power,  he  replied  that  he  did  not  feel  in  a talking  humor 
just  at  that  time,  and  started  off  in  another  direction,  where- 
upon they  hallooed  after  him,  making  use  of  the  most  in- 
sulting language  and  gestures,  and  asking  him  if  he  consid- 
ered himself  a man  thus  to  run  away  from  his  friends,  and 
intimating  that,  in  their  opinion,  he  was  an  old  woman,  who 
had  better  go  home  and  take  care  of  the  children. 

Beaver  says  this  roused  his  indignation  to  such  a pitch 
that  he  stopped,  turned  around,  and  replied,  “Maybe  so; 
s’pose  three  or  four  of  you  Injuns  come  up  here  alone,  I’ll 
show  you  if  I’ze  old  womans.”  They  did  not,  however,  ac- 
cept the  challenge,  and  Beaver  rode  off. 

Although  the  Delawares  generally  seem  quite  happy  in 
their  social  relations,  yet  they  are  not  altogether  exempt 
from  some  of  those  minor  discords  which  occasionally  creep 
in  and  mar  the  domestic  harmony  of  their  more  civilized 
pale-faced  brethren. 

I remember,  upon  one  occasion,  I had  bivouacked  for  the 
night  with  Black  Beaver,  and  he  had  been  endeavoring  to 
while  away  the  long  hours  of  the  evening  by  relating  to  me 
some  of  the  most  thrilling  incidents  of  his  highly  adventur- 
ous and  erratic  life,  when  at  length  a hiatus  in  the  conver- 
sation gave  me  an  opportunity  of  asking  him  if  he  was  a 


A JEALOUS  WIFE. 


83 


married  man.  He  hesitated  for  some  time ; then  looking 
up  and  giving  his  forefinger  a twirl,  to  imitate  the  throwing 
of  a lasso,  replied,  “ One  time  me  catch  ’um  wife.  I pay 
that  woman,  his  modder , one  hoss — one  saddle — one  bridle 
— two  plug  tobacco,  and  plenty  goods.  I take  him  home 
to  my  house — got  plenty  meat — plenty  corn — plenty  every 
thing.  One  time  me  go  take  walk,  maybe  so  three,  maybe 
so  two  hours.  When  I come  home,  that  woman  he  say, 
c Black  Beaver,  what  for  you  go  way  long  time  ?’  I say, 
‘ I not  go  nowhere ; I just  take  one  littel  walk.’  Then  that 
woman  he  get  heap  mad,  and  say, 1 Ho,  Black  Beaver,  you 
not  take  no  littel  walk.  I know  what  for  you  go  way; 
you  go  see  nodder  one  woman .’  I say,  ‘ Maybe  not.’  Then 
that  woman  she  cry  long  time,  and  all  e’time  now  she  mad. 
You  never  seen  ’Merican  woman  that  a- way  ?” 

I sympathized  most  deeply  with  my  friend  in  his  distress, 
and  told  him  for  his  consolation  that,  in  my  opinion,  the 
women  of  his  nation  were  not  peculiar  in  this  respect ; that 
they  were  pretty  much  alike  all  over  the  world,  and  I was 
under  the  impression  that  there  were  well-authenticated  in- 
stances even  among  white  women  where  they  had  subject- 
ed themselves  to  the  same  causes  of  complaint  so  feelingly 
depicted  by  him.  Whereupon  he  very  earnestly  asked, 
“ What  you  do  for  cure  him  ? Whip  him  ?”  I replied, 
Ho ; that,  so  far  as  my  observation  extended,  I was  under 
the  impression  that  this  was  generally  regarded  by  those 
who  had  suffered  from  its  effects  as  one  of  those  chronic 
and  vexatious  complaints  which  would  not  be  benefited  by 
the  treatment  he  suggested,  even  when  administered  in 
homoeopathic  doses,  and  I believed  it  was  now  admitted  by 
all  sensible  men  that  it  was  better  in  all  such  cases  to  let 
nature  take  its  course,  trusting  to  a merciful  Providence. 

At  this  reply  his  countenance  assumed  a dejected  ex- 
pression, but  at  length  he  brightened  up  again  and  triumph- 


84 


COMANCHE  INCREDULITY. 


antly  remarked,  “ I tell  you,  my  friend,  what  I do ; I ketch 
’um  nodder  one  wife  when  I go  home.” 

Black  Beaver  had  visited  St.  Louis  and  the  small  towns 
upon  the  Missouri  frontier,  and  he  prided  himself  not  a lit- 
tle upon  his  acquaintance  with  the  customs  of  the  whites, 
and  never  seemed  more  happy  than  when  an  opportunity 
offered  to  display  this  knowledge  in  presence  of  his  Indian 
companions.  It  so  happened,  upon  one  occasion,  that  I had 
a Comanche  guide  who  bivouacked  at  the  same  fire  with 
Beaver.  On  visiting  them  one  evening  according  to  my 
usual  practice,  I found  them  engaged  in  a very  earnest  and 
apparently  not  very  amicable  conversation.  On  inquiring 
the  cause  of  this,  Beaver  answered, “ I’ve  been  telling  this 
Comanche  what  I seen  ’mong  the  white  folks.” 

I said,  “Well,  Beaver,  what  did  you  tell  him?” 

“I  tell  him  ’bout  the  steam-boats,  and  the  rail-roads,  and 
the  heap  o’  houses  I seen  in  St.  Louis.” 

“Well,  sir,  what  does  he  think  of  that?” 

“He  say  I’ze  d — d fool.” 

“What  else  did  you  tell  him  about?” 

“I  tell  him  the  world  is  round,  but  he  keep  all  e’time 
say,  ‘ Hush,  you.  fool ! do  yous  ’pose  I’ze  child.  Haven’t  I 
got  eyes?  Can’t  I see  the  prairie?  You  call  him  round?’ 
He  say,  too,  ‘ Maybe  so  I tell  you  something  you  not  know 
before.  One  time  my  grandfather  he  make  long  journey 
that  way  (pointing  to  the  west).  When  he  get  on  big 
mountain,  he  seen  heap  water  on  t’other  side,  jest  so  flat  he 
can  be,  and  he  seen  the  sun  go  straight  down  on  t’other 
side.’  I then  tell  him  all  the  serivers  he  seen,  all  e’time  the 
water  he  run;  s’pose  the  world  flat,  the  water  he  stand 
still.  Maybe  so  he  not  b’lieve  me  ?” 

I told  him  it  certainly  looked  very  much  like  it.  I then 
asked  him  to  explain  to  the  Comanche  the  magnetic  tele- 
graph. He  looked  at  me  earnestly,  and  said, 


JOHN  BUSHMAN. 


85 


“What  you  call  that  magnetic  telegraph?” 

I said,  “You  have  heard  of  New  York  and  New  Or- 
leans?” 

“Oh  yes,”  he  replied. 

“Very  well ; we  have  a wire  connecting  these  two  cities, 
which  are  about  a thousand  miles  apart,  and  it  would  take 
a man  thirty  days  to  ride  it  upon  a good  horse.  Now  a 
man  stands  at  one  end  of  this  wire  in  New  York,  and  by 
touching  it  a few.  times  he  inquires  of  his  friend  in  New 
Orleans  what  he  had  for  breakfast.  His  friend  in  New  Or- 
leans touches  the  other  end  of  the  wire,  and  in  ten  minutes 
the  answer  comes  back — ham  and  eggs.  Tell  him  that, 
Beaver.” 

His  countenance  assumed  a most  comical  expression,  but 
he  made  no  remark  until  I again  requested  him  to  repeat 
what  I had  said  to  the  Comanche,  when  he  observed, 

“No,  captain,  I not  tell  him  that,  for  I don’t  b’lieve  that 
myself.” 

Upon  my  assuring  him  that  such  was  the  fact,  and  that  I 
had  seen  it  myself,  he  said, 

“ Injun  not  very  smart ; sofnetimes  he’s  big  fool,  but  he 
holler  pretty  loud ; you  hear  him  maybe  half  a mile ; you 
say  ’Merican  man  he  talk  thousand  miles.  I ’spect  you  try 
to  fool  me  now,  captain ; maybe  so  you  lie?  3 

JOHN  BUSHMAN. 

Previous  to  my  departure  from  Fort  Washita  upon  my 
Bed  River  expedition,  I employed  five  Delawares  and  Shaw- 
nees  as  guides  and  hunters.  One  of  them,  by  the  name  of 
John  Bushman,  who  could  speak  English  and  Comanche 
fluently,  was  constituted  interpreter  and  the  head  man  of 
the  Indians. 

I directed  him  to  tell  his  comrades  that  I proposed  to 
pay  each  of  them  one  dollar  per  day  during  the  time  wc 

H 


86 


A QUESTION  OF  WAGES. 


should  be  absent.  With  this  all  seemed  to  be  satisfied,  and 
I supposed  every  thing  was  arranged  -to  suit  them ; but  it 
seemed  that  Bushman  had  conversed  with  Black  Beaver 
upon  the  subject  previous  to  leaving  home,  and  Beaver  had 
informed  him  that  he  had  received  from  me  two  dollars  and 
a half  per  day,  and  suggested  to  John  that  he  would  prob- 
ably get  the  same  compensation  for  his  services.  I was 
not  advised  of  this,  however,  and  supposed  he  would  only 
expect  the  same  pay  as  the  other  Indians,  until  one  day, 
after  he  had  acted  as  interpreter  for  me  with  a party  of 
prairie  Indians  who  had  visited  our  camp,  he  came  to  me 
and  said,  “You  not  tell  me  yet,  captain,  how  much  you 
goin’  give  me.” 

I replied  that  I had  stated  to  him  distinctly  before  leav- 
ing Fort  Washita  that  each  Delaware  would  receive  one 
dollar  a day.  He  answered, 

“I  no  understand  um  that-a-way,  captain.  Black  Bea- 
ver he  say  maybe  so  give  um  two  dollar  half  one  day.” 

I told  him  Black  Beaver  was  not  authorized  to  make 
contracts  for  me ; moreover,  I added,  a dollar  a day  was 
good  pay,  but  in  consideration  of  his  acting  as  interpreter, 
I would  allow  him  an  additional  per  diem  of  half  a dollar, 
which  was  more  than  he  had  any  right  to  expect;  that  I 
was  disposed  to  compensate  him  liberally,  but  that  the  gov- 
ernment had  no  money  to  throw  away  by  paying  three 
prices  for  a thing. 

John  acquiesced  in  this  decision,  but  in  a very  surly 
mood,  and  did  not  recover  his  usual  spirits  for  some  days. 
At  length,  however,  he  seemed  to  be  content,  and  on  our 
return  to  Fort  Arbuckle,  after  I had  settled  with  him,  and 
as  he  was  about  leaving  for  his  home,  I said  to  him, 
“Well,  John,  you  are  going  home  now.  In  case  I make 
another  expedition  into  the  Plains,  would  you  like  to  ac- 
company me?”  “Ho,”  he  replied,  very  abruptly.  “And 


FOLLOWING  A TRAIL. 


87 


why  not,  pray  ?”  “ Because  that  government  he  hain’t  got 

no  money  to  throw  away.” 

John  Bushman  had  acted  as  interpreter  for  me  at  Fort 
Arbuckle,  when  I first  established  that  post,  and  he  was  a 
true  specimen  of  the  Indian  type — dignified,  reserved,  and 
taciturn,  self-reliant,  independent,  and  fearless. 

He  was  a man  of  eminently  determinate  and  resolute 
character,  with  great  powers  of  endurance,  and  a most  acute 
and  vigilant  observer,  distinguished  by  prominent  powers 
of  locality  and  sound  judgment.  These  traits  of  character, 
with  the  abundant  experience  he  had  upon  the  Plains,  made 
him  one  of  the  very  best  guides  I ever  met  with.  He 
never  sees  a place  once  without  instantly  recognizing  it  on 
seeing  it  the  second  time,  notwithstanding  he  may  ap- 
proach it  from  a different  direction ; and  the  very  moment 
he  takes  a glance  over  a district  of  country  he  has  never 
seen  before,  he  will  almost  invariably  point  out  the  partic- 
ular localities  (if  there  are  any  such)  where  water  can  be 
found,  when  to  others  there  seems  nothing  to  indicate  it. 

An  incident  which  was  related  to  me  as  occurring  with 
one  of  these  guides  a few  years  since,  forcibly  illustrates 
their  character.  The  officer  having  charge  of  the  party  to 
which  he  was  attached  sent  him  out  to  examine  a trail  he 
had  met  with  on  the  prairie,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
where  it  would  lead  to.  The  guide,  after  following  it  as  far 
as  he  supposed  he  would  be  required  to  do,  returned  and 
reported  that  it  led  off  into  the  prairie  to  no  particular 
place,  so  far  as  he  could  discover.  He  was  told  that  this 
was  not  satisfactory,  and  directed  to  take  the  trail  again, 
and  to  follow  it  until  he  gained  the  required  information. 
He  accordingly  went  out  the  second  time,  but  did  not  re- 
turn that  day,  nor  the  next,  and  the  party,  after  a time,  be- 
gan to  be  alarmed  for  his  safety,  fearing  he  might  have 
been  killed  by  the  Indians.  Days  and  weeks  passed  by, 


EASY  DIVORCE. 


88 

but  still  nothing  was  heard  of  the  guide,  until,  on  arriving 
at  the  first  border  settlement,  to  their  astonishment,  he 
made  his  appearance  among  them,  and,  approaching  the 
commanding  officer,  said,  “Captain,  that  trail  which  you  or- 
dered me  to  follow  terminates  here.”  He  had,  with  indom- 
itable and  resolute  energy,  traversed  alone  several  hund- 
red miles  of  wild  and  desolate  prairie,  with  nothing  but  his 
gun  to  depend  upon  for  a subsistence,  determined  this  time 
to  carry  out  the  instructions  of  his  employer  to  the  letter. 

John  Bushman  had  been  married  for  many  years,  and 
had  several  children  when  I first  met  him,  but  his  wife 
was  getting  in  years,  and  he  resolved  to  provide  himself 
with  a younger  companion.  Accordingly,  he  one  day  intro- 
duced into  his  household  a young  Mrs.  Bushman,  which  pro- 
ceeding very  much  exasperated  the  elder  matron.  Shortly 
after  this  innovation  upon  his  domestic  relations,  I called 
at  his  cabin,  and,  observing  the  two  squaws  looking  very 
demure  and  sad,  I asked  John  what  the  trouble  was.  He 
replied,  pointing  to  the  elder,  “ That  woman,  he  mad.” 
Then,  turning  toward  the  other,  he  said,  “That  one  he  mad 
too,  captain.” 

The  day  following  the  elder  wife  took  her  children,  and 
left  John  to  enjoy  his  honeymoon  without  farther  molest- 
ation. 

The  marriage  contract  among  the  Delawares  and  Shaw- 
nees,  it  appears,  is  only  binding  so  long  as  it  suits  the  con- 
venience and  wishes  of  the  parties.  It  can  be  revoked  at 
any  time  when  either  party  feels  disposed ; and  a woman 
who  leaves  her  husband  is  authorized  by  their  laws  to 
take  with  her  all  the  personal  property  which  she  possessed 
at  the  date  of  the  marriage.  It  can  not  be  alienated,  and 
her  husband  does  not  acquire  the  slightest  claim  upon  it. 

This  law  of  property,  I think,  is  a very  just  and  wise  pro- 
vision, because  it  makes  the  woman  somewhat  independent 


JIM  NED. 


89 


of  her  husband,  and,  no  doubt,  frequently  deters  a tyran- 
nical man  from  maltreating  his  wife.  In  the  instance  al- 
luded to,  Bushman’s  wife  carried  away  all  the  horses  be- 
longing to  the  family,  as  they  were  her  property. 

JIM  NED. 

This  somewhat  remarkable  specimen  of  humanity  is  a 
Delaware,  united  with  a slight  admixture  of  the  African. 
He  had  a Delaware  wife,  and  adopted  the  habits  of  that 
tribe,  but  at  the  same  time  he  possessed  all  the  social  vivac- 
ity and  garrulity  of  the  negro.  He  was,  however,  exceed- 
ingly sensitive  upon  the  subject  of  the  African  element  in 
his  composition,  and  resorted  to  a variety  of  expedients  to 
conceal  it  from  strangers,  one  of  which  was  by  shaving  off 
his  kinky  locks,  and  keeping  his  head  continually  covered 
with  a shawl  “a  la  Turk.” 

"When  I first  met  Jim  in  1849,  he  had  the  reputation  of 
being  one  of  the  most  expert,  daring,  and  successful  horse- 
thieves  among  the  southwestern  tribes.  The  theatre  of  his 
exploits  was  not  confined  to  our  territory,  but  his  forays 
often  extended  into  Mexico,  and  it  was  seldom  that  he  re- 
turned empty-handed. 

Although  he  was  generous  and  hospitable  in  his  disposi- 
tion, yet  he  was  eminently  vindictive  and  revengeful  to- 
ward those  who  interfered  with  his  favorite  pursuit,  and  it 
was  said  that  several  of  his  tribe  had  with  their  lives  paid 
the  penalty  of  incurring  his  displeasure. 

My  friend  Black  Beaver  used  to  talk  to  me  a great  deal 
about  this  noted  freebooter,  but  w&s  very  far  from  being 
prepossessed  in  his  favor.  They  had,  it  seems,  upon  a cer- 
tain occasion,  a difficulty  which  came  near  resulting  in  a 
serious  quarrel.  Jim,  no  doubt  thinking  that  his  antece- 
dents were  of  a character  to  deter  any  one  who  knew  him 
from  voluntarily  placing  himself  in  a hostile  attitude  to- 

H* 


90 


UNFAITHFULNESS  PUNISHED. 


ward  him,  remarked  to  Beaver,  in  the  course  of  the  discus- 
sion that  ensued,  “ I suppose,  sir,  you’ve  heard  of  one  Dela- 
ware man  that  people  call  Jim  Ned?'1  To  which  Beaver 
replied  “that  he  had  several  times  heard  of  the  individual 
named.” 

“Very  well,”  Jim  said.  “Have  you  not  also  heard  that 
when  a man  incurs  his  displeasure,  the  climate  becomes 
very  sickly  for  him,  and  that  he  does  not  generally  live 
long  after  it?” 

Beaver  was  no  coward,  and,  knowing  the  fact  of  the  oth- 
er’s sensitive  disposition,  he  replied,  “ I’ze  not  very  rich  In- 
dian just  now ; I hazn’t  got  much  money,  but  maybe  so 
I’ze  got  enough  to  pay  for  one  d — d nigger,  s’poze  I kill 
him.” 

Jim  Ned  had  been  a great  deal  among  the  wild  tribes  of 
the  Plains,  and  was  familiar  with  many  of  their  customs 
and  peculiarities.  He  was  with  me  for  several  weeks  in 
1854,  and  related  to  me  several  incidents  in  his  life,  which 
interested  me  not  a little. 

As  we  were  sitting  by  our  camp-fire  one  evening,  he 
asked  me  if  I knew  how  the  prairie  Indians  punished  an 
incontinent  wife.  I replied  that  I did  not,  unless  it  was  by 
cutting  off  an  ear,  or  the  end  of  her  nose.  He  then  related 
to  me  the  following  incident,  which  came  under  his  own 
observation. 

Some  years  before,  it  appeared,  he  had  been  the  guest  of 
a Comanche  chief,  who  was  encamped  with  his  band  near 
the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos.  This  chief  was  possessed 
of  large  herds  of  horses,  that  were  tended  and  cared  for  by 
some  six  or  eight  wives  of  various  ages,  from  eighteen  to 
fifty. 

During  Jim’s  visit,  one  of  the  youngest  and  most  attract- 
ive of  these  damsels  was  prevailed  upon  by  a young  brave 
to  leave  her  lord,  and  elope  with  him  upon  a war  expedi- 


JUAN  GALVAN. 


91 


tion  into  Mexico.  The  old  chief  expressed  much  indigna- 
tion toward  his  truant  spouse  and  her  lover,  and  threatened 
all  manner  of  punishments  on  their  return.  Time  passed 
by,  and  in  the  course  of  about  two  months  the  pair  returned 
to  the  encampment.  The  chief  soon  learned  that  they  were 
there,  and  on  the  following  morning,  j ust  before  daybreak, 
awoke  Jim  Ned,  saying  to  him,  “Get  up,  my  friend ; I want 
you  to  see  a specimen  of  Comanche  law.”  He  was  dressed 
in  his  full  war  costume,  with  his  face  painted  in  various 
fanciful  colors,  and  his  horse  saddled  at  the  door  of  his 
lodge.  He  seated  himself  near  Jim,  lighted  his  pipe,  and, 
pulling  several  whiffs,  passed  it  to  him,  after  which  he  took 
his  lance,  mounted  his  horse,  and  rode  out  into  the  camp, 
and  in  a short  time  returned  with  his  truant  companion 
behind  him. 

They  dismounted  before  the  lodge,  and  he  told  the  wom- 
an to  sit  down  in  a place  which  he  designated ; then,  load- 
ing his  rifle,  he  approached  her,  and  directed  her  to  cross 
her  feet  one  above  the  other.  When  this  was  done,  he 
placed  the  muzzle  of  his  gun  directly  over  them  and  fired, 
the  ball  passing  though  the  centre  of  both  feet.  “ Now,” 
he  said,  “run  away  again  if  you  like.”  The  friends  of  the 
woman  then  approached  and  carried  her  off.  This,  Jim 
says,  is  Comanche  law. 

JUAN  GALVAN. 

While  I was  serving  in  Southern  Texas,  on  the  borders 
of  Mexico,  I became  acquainted  with  an  interesting  speci- 
men of  the  primitive  inhabitants  of  that  wild  and  sterile 
region. 

He  was  a Mexican,  by  the  name  of  Juan  Galvan,  who 
had  passed  all  his  life  (about  fifty  years)  upon  a ranch  near 
Lerado,  on  the  Rio  Grande. 

He  had  often  been  attacked  and  robbed  by  the  prairie 


92 


A CUNNING  TRICK. 


Indians,  who,  even  as  late  as  1854,  when  I was  there,  would 
occasionally  make  raids  upon  the  country. 

Galvan  was  regarded  as  one  of  the  best  guides  in  the 
country.  He  understood  all  the  mysteries  of  trailing  and 
“signs”  perfectly,  and  was  often  employed  as  guide  for  par- 
ties of  troops  sent  out  on  scouts  in  pursuit  of  Indians.  He 
was  a brave  man,  and  wore  the  scars  of  many  battles  in 
which  he  had  been  engaged  against  the  savages. 

He  related  to  me  several  interesting  adventures  in  his 
experience,  which  forcibly  illustrated  the  habits  and  peculi- 
arities of  the  Indian  race. 

Among  others,  he  told  me  that  he  was,  some  years  be- 
fore, with  a command  of  our  troops  in  pursuit  of  and  upon 
a fresh  trail  of  Indians,  when,  as  they  entered  a dense  thick- 
et of  chaparral  bordering  an  arroya,  they  suddenly  came 
upon  the  enemy  prepared  to  give  battle. 

Our  men  immediately  made  the  attack,  and  charged  into 
the  chaparral.  Galvan  fired  at  aft  Indian  who,  a moment 
before,  had  discharged  his  gun  at  him,  and  his  shot  took 
effect,  as  he  supposed,  for  the  Indian  fell  upon  the  ground 
uttering  the  most  pitiful  groans.  He  did  not  stop  to  give 
him  another  shot,  supposing  he  had  received  his  death- 
wound,  but  pushed  on  to  give  battle  to  others. 

When  he  had  passed  on  about  one  hundred  yards,  how- 
ever, much  to  his  astonishment  up  jumped  the  identical 
savage,  slapping  his  chest,  and  in  a most  triumphant  tone 
crying  out  in  Spanish,  “ Nada,  nada,  nada ! Bueno,  bueno, 
bueno  !”  (Nothing,  nothing,  nothing  ! Good,  good,  good !) 
and  at  the  same  time  he  fired  his  gun  at  him,  which,  it  ap- 
peared, he  had  loaded  while  in  the  act  of  playing  the  part 
of  the  dead  Indian. 

At  another  time  Galvan  was  out  with  Lieutenant  Hud- 
son and  a detachment  of  our  soldiers  upon  the  trail  of  a 
party  of  Comanches,  whom  they  overtook  in  an  arroya. 


KICKAPOOS. 


93 


The  Indians,  seeing  there  was  no  chance  for  escape,  scat- 
tered, took  cover,  and  commenced  fighting.  In  a short  time 
they  espied  the  lieutenant,  and  cried  out  in  Spanish,  “ Mira! 
mira ! curahoe  capitano  Americano”  (look  ! look  ! d — d 
American  captain) ; and  immediately  several  of  them  seem- 
ed determined  to  kill  him.  One  approached  him  very  close, 
and  discharged  several  arrows  at  him,  when  the  lieutenant 
ran  up  and  seized  him  by  the  hair  of  the  head,  and  attempt- 
ed to  cut  him  down  with  his  sabre,  but  unfortunately  the 
arm  was  so  dull  that  he  was  unable  to  inflict  much  injury 
upon  him,  and  the  savage  turned  upon  him  with  an  arrow, 
and  stabbed  him  so  severely  that  he  died  in  a few  days. 

KICKAPOO  INDIANS. 

This  minute  fraction  of  what  was  once  a formidable  tribe 
of  Indians  is  now  reduced  to  a very  few  warriors,  a portion 
of  whom,  in  1854,  lived  upon  the  Choctaw  reservation  near 
the  Witchita  River. 

They,  like  the  Delawares  and  Shawnees,  are  well  armed 
with  good  rifles,  in  the  use  of  which  they  are  very  expert, 
and  there  are  no  better  hunters  or  warriors  upon  the  bor- 
ders. They  hunt  altogether  on  horseback,  and  after  a par- 
ty of  them  have  passed  through  a section  of  country,  it  is 
seldom  that  any  game  is  left  in  their  trace. 

They  are  intelligent,  active,  and  brave,  and  frequently 
visit  and  traffic  with  the  prairie  Indians,  and  have  no  fears 
of  meeting  these  people  in  battle,  provided  the  odds  are  not 
more  than  six  to  one  against  them. 

The  manner  in  which  they  execute  justice  upon  their 
own  people  who  have  been  guilty  of  infractions  of  their 
laws  is  shown  in  the  following  case  of  the  murder  of  the 
Comanche  agent,  Colonel  Stem,  and  another  man,  who  were 
traveling  together  near  Fort  Belknap  in  1853. 

They  were  within  about  ten  miles  of  the  fort  when  they 


94 


MURDER  PUNISHED. 


were  fired  upon  by  two  Indians,  who  missed  them,  but  im- 
mediately attacked  with  their  rifles  clubbed  and  beat  them 
to ‘death. 

The  murderers  made  their  escape,  and  no  clew  could  be 
obtained  of  them  for  a long  time,  until  at  length  the  com- 
manding officer  of  Fort  Belknap  received  information  that 
induced  him  to  believe  the  perpetrators  of  the  deed  were 
Kickapoos,  living  near  Fort  Arbuckle.  Accordingly,  he 
sent  an  officer  to  that  post,  and  the  chief  of  the  Kickapoos 
was  called  in,  and  told  that  there  were  good  reasons  for  be- 
lieving that  some  of  his  band  had  committed  the  act.  He 
was  then  told  that  those  persons  must  be  given  up  to  our 
authorities,  and,  if  they  attempted  to  escape,  they  must  be 
shot  down,  and  evidence  of  their  identity  brought  to  the 
fort. 

The  chief  replied  that  their  head  men  had  been  in  coun- 
cil upon  the  same  subject  all  the  previous  night,  and  that 
they  had  taken  the  matter  into  very  serious  consideration. 
The  facts  had  been  reported  by  a boy  who  was  in  company 
with  the  Indians  when  the  deed  was  perpetrated.  The 
murderers  had  made  their  escape,  but  the  chief  stated  that 
his  young  warriors  were  already  on  their  trail,  and  would 
probably  overtake  them,  and  as  soon  as  they  were  appre- 
hended they  should  be  given  up. 

The  chief  then  returned  to  his  village,  and  soon  afterward 
one  of  the  murderers  was  brought  in,  and  immediately 
bound,  placed  upon  a horse,  and  they  started  with  him  to 
the  fort.  Before  they  reached  there,  however,  he  threw  him- 
self from  the  horse,  cut  his  bonds  with  a knife  he  had  con- 
cealed in  his  leggins,  and  attempted  to  flee,  but  he  was  im- 
mediately shot  down  through  the  heart  by  his  guard,  and 
his  body  carried  into  the  fort  and  exhibited  to  the  com- 
manding officer.  The  chief  then  said  that  all  his  warriors 
were  in  pursuit  of  the  other  man,  and  would  probably  ap- 


A brother’s  justice. 


95 


prehend  him;  that  he  had  sent  them  out  in  pairs,  or  twos; 
and  that,  should  any  of  the  whites  meet  with  a single  Kick- 
apoo  out  by  himself  in  any  direction,  they  could  kill  him 
without  hesitation ; they  would  be  certain  to  have  executed 
the  right  one. 

Several  days  elapsed  without  any  information  from  the 
fugitive,  when  a runner  came  in  and  communicated  the  fol- 
lowing facts.  It  appeared  that  the  Indian,  on  leaving  his 
village,  had  made  his  way  to  another  camp  upon  the  Cana- 
dian Eiver,  where  he  had  a brother  living.  On  entering 
the  village,  he  went  toward  his  brother’s  lodge,  exclaiming, 
in  a loud  tone  of  voice,  “I  am  the  murderer  of  the  two 
white  men  near  Fort  Belknap,  and  if  any  man  wishes  to 
take  my  life,  here  I am,  ready  to  die.”  No  one  molesting 
him,  he  passed  on  to  his  brother’s  lodge,  and  seating  him- 
self, partook  of  supper ; then,  turning  to  his  brother,  said, 
“ Here  I am,  my  brother,  a fugitive  from  justice.  I would 
have  gone  and  joined  the  Comanches,  but  I was  fearful  I 
should  starve  before  I found  them.  I am  hunted  down  like 
a wild  beast.  I am  like  a wounded  deer,  that  can  not  get 
away.  I had  nowhere  else  to  go  but  to  you.”  He  contin- 
ued talking  with  his  brother  for  some  time,  when  finally  the 
latter  invited  him  to  walk  outside  of  the  camp,  where  they 
could  have  a more  free  interchange  of  views.  As  soon  as 
they  were  a short  distance  from  the  village,  the  brother 
stepped  back,  raised  his  tomahawk,  and  with  a single  blow 
felled  the  murderer  to  the  ground,  but  did  not  kill  him. 
He  then  seized  him,  saying,  “ My  brother,  I have  repeatedly 
warned  you  of  the  consequences  of  following  the  path  you 
have,  and  told  you  that  it  would  ultimately  lead  you  to  dis- 
grace and  ruin.  You  have  violated  the  laws  of  your  tribe 
and  of  the  United  States,  and  you  have  thereby  brought  the 
nation  into  difficulty  with  the  pale-faces,  and  they  expect 
ample  reparation  for  the  deed  you  have  committed,  and  it 


96 


REGARD  FOR  LAW. 


now  becomes  my  duty  to  kill  you.”  He  then  deliberately 
put  him  to  death,  and  immediately  went  and  reported  the 
fact  to  the  chief,  who  at  once  assembled  a council  of  the 
principal  men,  and,  after  addressing  them,  and  explaining 
the  nature  of  the  case,  he  called  for  a volunteer  to  cut  off  the 
head  of  the  murderer,  saying  that  the  distance  to  the  fort 
was  too  great  to  transport  the  body,  and,  as  the  command- 
ing officer  required  positive  evidence  that  the  man  had  been 
killed,  it  became  necessary  that  they  should  take  the  head 
to  him.  Ho  one  volunteering,  he  said,  u As  no  one  seems 
willing  to  do  this  act,  I shall  be  obliged  to  do  it  myself 
which  he  accordingly  did,  and  carried  the  head,  with  a 
strong  escort,  to  Fort  Arbuckle. 

The  foregoing  incident  evinces  a high  regard  for  law,  and 
an  inflexibility  of  spirit  in  the  execution  of  its  mandates 
seldom  found  among  any  people,  and  it  exhibits  the  Kick- 
apoo  character  in  vivid  and  faithful  colors. 


PUEBLO  INDIANS. 


97 


CHAPTER  IV. 

_PUEBLO  INDIANS. 

Pueblo  Indians. — Early  Discovery. — Situations  of  their  Towns. — Moquis. — 
Coronado’s  Expedition. — Visit  to  Santa  Domingo. — Laguna. — Christmas 
Ceremonies. — Church  Services. — Bird  Orchestra. — Dances. — Moqui  Vil- 
lages.— Peculiar  Dances. — Feasting. — Origin  of  the  Moquis. — Marriage 
Ceremony.  — Estufas. — Pottery.  — Extensive  Ruins. — Large  Houses. — 
Casas  Grandes. 

Three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  years  ago,  and  eighty- 
three  years  before  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth, 
a Franciscan  missionary,  named  Marcus  de  Niza,  with  that 
spirit  of  self-sacrifice  and  devotion  to  the  interests  of  his 
Church  which  characterized  the  monks  of  his  order,  soli- 
tary and  alone  traversed  the  vast  expanse  of  desert  coun- 
try lying  between  the  city  of  Mexico  and  the  Gila  River, 
and  penetrated  into  the  very  heart  of  New  Mexico,  where 
he  discovered  a class  of  aborigines  living  in  houses  and 
towns,  and  far  more  advanced  in  the  arts  than  any  others 
that  have  been  met  with  since  within  the  limits  of  our  pos- 
sessions. These  Indians  cultivated  cotton,  and  manufac- 
tured cloth  from  it.  They  also  understood  the  art  of  mak- 
ing and  coloring  a very  superior  quality  of  pottery. 

Their  villages  or  towns  were  generally  located  in  the 
most  elevated  and  defensible  positions,  and  regularly  laid 
out  into  streets  and  public  squares  like  European  cities. 
Their  houses  were  two,  three,  four,  and  sometimes  as  many 
as  seven  stories  high,  and  occasionally  pierced  with  loop- 
holes for  defense,  but  invariably  the  entrances  were  from 
the  roofs,  with  no  doors  upon  the  sides.  They  cultivated 

I 


98 


CORONADO  S EXPEDITION. 


corn,  were  industrious  and  unwarlike  in  their  habits,  and 
seemed  to  live  comfortably  and  happy. 

This  same  class  of  Indians  still  exists  in  New  Mexico, 
and,  with  the  exceptions  of  some  few  modifications  brought 
about  by  the  introduction  of  domestic  animals  and  the  com- 
mingling of  the  Catholic  religion  with  their  own  primitive 
forms  of  Aztec  worship,  their  habits,  customs,  and  religion 
are  almost  precisely  the  same  to-day  as  they  were  when 
first  seen  by  the  Spanish  priest.  These  Indians  are  now 
called  “ Pueblos ,”  or  people  who  live  in  towns. 

The  most  remarkable  specimens  of  the  Pueblos  that  I 
have  heard  of  are  the  Moquis,  who  occupy  seven  towns  or 
villages  situated  in  a very  inaccessible  locality,  about  mid- 
way between  the  Bio  del  Norte  and  the  Colorado  River, 
and  a short  distance  north  of  the  Little  Colorado.  But 
very  few  of  our  people  have  ever  visited  them,  and  it  is  a 
most  striking  fact  that  this  section,  which,  after  Florida, 
was  the  first  of  our  present  possessions  visited  by  Euro- 
peans,, should  be  the  last  to  be  explored  by  the  present  gen- 
eration. 

The  first  successful  attempt  to  explore  this  region  was 
made  while  Nuno  de  Guzman  was  President  of  New  Spain 
in  1540,  and  was,  as  I said  before,  intrusted  to  the  command 
of  Francisco  Yasquez  Coronado.  The  expedition  consisted 
of  300  volunteers,  mostly  Spaniards  of  good  families,  who 
were  induced  to  join  the  enterprise  under  the  belief  that 
they  were  to  be  led  direct  to  the  veritable  “ El  Dorado.” 

They  marched  to  Sonora,  and  thence,  crossing  the  Gila, 
traveled  two  weeks  through  the  desert  north  of  that  stream, 
until  at  length  they  reached  one  of  the  towns  they  were  in 
search  of,  called  Cibola,  which  they  found  built  upon  an 
elevated  cliff,  the  houses  having  three  and  four  stories,  erect- 
ed in  terrace  form,  and  the  approaches  to  the  summit  of  the 
cliff  so  narrow  and  steep  as  to  be  very  difficult  of  access. 


A PUEBLO  VISITED. 


99 


Nevertheless,  “ Coronado  assailed  it  sword  in  hand,  and  car- 
ried it  in  an  hour.” 

From  thence  he  proceeded  east  to  another  larger  town, 
called  Tigoeux,  on  the  Eio  Grande,  where  he  made  his 
head-quarters  during  the  winter  of  1540-1.  At  this  place, 
which  some  suppose  to  have  been  near  Isletta,  “ some  of 
the  houses  were  seven  stories  in  height,  and  rose  above  the 
rest  like  towers,  having  embrasures  and  loopholes.” 

From  thence  he  made  his  expedition  into  the  Plains, 
where  he  encountered  the  prairie  Indians  and  vast  herds 
of  buffalo,  and  returned  to  Gran  Quivera,  on  the  Pecos 
Eiver. 

Upon  the  occasion  of  Coronado’s  visit  to  New  Mexico  he 
had  a large  number  of  sheep,  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
flocks  of  sheep  seen  among  the  Pueblo  Indians  at  the  pres- 
ent day  sprang  from  those  introduced  by  Coronado. 

I visited  one  of  these  pueblo  towns  ( Santa  Domingo)  in 
1849.  On  our  entrance  the  streets  seemed  to  be  deserted, 
and  we  were  for  some  time  unable  to  find  any  person  to 
guide  us  to  the  residence  of  the  governor  (cacique).  At 
length,  however,  we  reached  the  house  and  ascended  a lad- 
der to  the  roof,  and  thence  by  another  ladder  descended 
through  a trap-door  into  the  principal  room  of  the  house. 
This  method  of  ingress  and  egress  must  have  originated 
from  purposes  of  defense,  as  when  the  exterior  ladder  is 
removed  there  is  no  way  of  entering  the  establishment. 
Immediately  on  our  appearance  the  governor  set  before  us 
some  meat  and  tortillas,  and  gave  us  an  invitation  “ to  eat” 
and  the  same  ceremony  was  observed  in  all  the  houses  we 
visited.  It  seemed  to  be  a universal  custom  with  them. 

While  we  were  conversing  with  the  governor,  who  was  a 
very  dignified  and  sensible  old  Indian,  we  heard  strange 
noises  in  the  street,  and,  on  looking  out,  saw  four  young 
Indians  dressed  in  a very  peculiar  tight-fitting  costume  of 


100 


CALLING  OUT  WORKMEN. 


different  colors,  something  like  those  we  see  upon  the 
clowns  in  a circus.  Around  their  heads  were  wreaths  of 
wheat,  and  in  their  hands  they  carried  gourds  containing 
small  pebbles,  which  they  kept  continually  shaking. 

They  were  going  from  house  to  house  in  a kind  of  mo- 
notonous dancing  gait,  at  the  same  time  crying  out  some- 
thing in  Indian  which  we  could  not  understand,  and  as  they 
passed  along  they  would  strike  the  exterior  ladders  of  cer- 
tain houses.  The  alcalde  informed  us  that  they  were  his 
criers,  who  were  calling  out  the  people  to  work  in  the  field, 
and  this  ceremony,  it  appeared,  was  gone  through  with  ev- 
ery day. 

This  pueblo  was  on  the  Rio  Grande,  in  the  settled  part 
of  the  territory,  and  the  Indians  were  accustomed  to  see 
Americans  almost  every  day;  yet  they  have  preserved 
their  national  characteristics  intact,  and  have  not  adopted 
any  of  the  habits  of  the  whites. 

The  Moqui  Indians,  who  also  live  in  pueblos  or  towns, 
are  so  remote  from  the  settlements,  and  in  such  an  inac- 
cessible country,  that  but  very  few  white  men  have  ever 
visited  them. 

Surgeon  P.  G.  S.  Ten  Broeck,  United  States  Army,  in 
1851-2,  paid  a visit  to  the  Pueblo  of  Laguna,  and  also  to 
the  Moqui  villages,  where  he  spent  several  days,  having  a 
good  opportunity  afforded  him  of  witnessing  their  peculiar 
ceremonies  and  customs ; and  as  his  description  of  the  re- 
markable idiosyncracies  of  this  anomalous  race  (or  rather 
type  of  a race)  is  highly  interesting  and  truthful,  I have 
taken  the  liberty  of  making  some  extracts  from  a paper 
furnished  by  him  to  Mr.  H.  R.  Schoolcraft. 

He  attended  church  on  Christmas  at  Laguna,  and  gives 
his  impressions  in  the  following  words : “ The  church  was 
quite  a large  building  of  stone,  laid  up  in  mud,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a wooden  cross.  It  is  long  and  narrow,  and 


PUEBLO  WORSHIP. 


101 


the  walls  are  whitewashed  in  much  the  same  style  that  the 
Indians  paint  their  earthen-ware.  The  front  is  continued 
about  ten  feet  above  the  roof,  the  whole  overtopped  by  a 
cross,  and  in  this  wall  are  three  arches  containing  as  many 
sized  bells,  whose  tones  are  by  no  means  Orphean,  and  which 
are  tolled  by  Indians  standing  on  the  roof,  and  pulling  cords 
attached  to  the  different  clappers.  (Query : where  did  the 
bells  come  from  ?) 

11  The  Indians  appear  greatly  delighted  in  jingling  these 
bells  upon  all  occasions ; but  this  morning  they  commenced 
very  early,  and  made,  if  possible,  more  noise  than  usual. 
After  breakfast  I entered  church  and  found  the  people  as- 
sembling for  worship,  the  men  in  their  best  blankets,  buck- 
skin breeches,  and  moccasins,  and  the  squaws  in  their  gay- 
est tilmas.  Many  of  the  latter  wore  blankets  of  red  cloth 
thrown  over  the  ordinary  colored  tilma  or  manta.  Candles 
were  lighted  at  the  altar,  within  the  limits  of  which  were 
two  old  men  performing  some  kind  of  mystic  ceremony. 
Soon  an  old,  ragged,  dirty-looking  Mexican  commenced  re- 
citing the  rosary  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  all  who  under- 
stood Spanish  joined  in  the  responses.  When  the  rosary 
was  finished,  this  same  old  fellow  sang  a long  song  in  praise 
of  Montezuma,  which  he  afterward  told  me  was  written 
by  himself,  the  burden  of  which  was  1 Cuando ! cuando ! 
nabro  otis  Montezuma,  cuando  P 

“ This  being  ended,  some  other  ceremonies  which  I did 
not  understand  were  gone  through  with  by  the  Indians; 
speeches  were  made  by  the  governor  and  some  of  the  old 
men,  and  the  congregation  then  quietly  dispersed  to  pre- 
pare themselves  for  the  pastimes  of  the  afternoon.  As  they 
passed  out  I noticed  that  a great  many  of  them  carried  in 
their  hands  little  baskets  containing  images,  some  of  sheep 
and  goats,  others  of  horses,  cows,  and  other  domestic  ani- 
mals, and  others,  again,  of  deer  and  beasts  of  the  chase, 


1(?2 


BIRD  ORCHESTRA. 


quite  ingeniously  wrought  in  mud  or  dough.  Inquiring 
the  reason  of  this,  I was  told  that  it  was  their  custom  from 
time  immemorial  that  those  who  had  been  successful  with 
herds,  in  agriculture,  in  the  chase,  or  any  other  way,  car- 
ry images  (each  of  that  in  which  he  had  been  blessed  dur- 
ing the  past  year)  to  the  altar,  there  to  lay  them  at  the  feet 
of  the  Great  Spirit. 

“ But  I have  deferred  until  the  last  what  was  to  me  by 
far  the  most  curious  and  interesting  in  this  singular  Christ- 
mas service — I mean  the  orchestra.  Just  over  the  entrance 
door  there  was  a small  gallery,  and  no  sooner  had  the 
Mexican  commenced  his  rosary  than  there  issued  from  this 
a sound  like  the  warbling  of  a multitude  of  birds,  and  it 
was  kept  up  until  he  had  ceased.  There  it  went,  through 
the  whole  house,  bounding  from  side  to  side,  echoing  from 
the  very  rafters — fine,  tiny  warblings,  and  deep-toned,  thrill- 
ing sounds.  The  note  of  the  wood-thrush  and  the  trillings 
of  the  Canary  bird,  were  particularly  distinct.  What  could 
it  mean  ? I determined  to  find  out,  and,  having  worked 
my  way  up  into  the  gallery,  I there  found  fifteen  or  twenty 
young  boys  lying  down  upon  the  floor,  each  with  a small 
basin  two  thirds  full  of  water  in  front  of  him,  and  one  or 
more  short  reeds  perforated  and  split  in  a peculiar  manner. 
Placing  one  end  in  the  water,  and  blowing  through  the 
other,  they  imitated  the  notes  of  different  birds  most  won- 
derfully. It  was  a curious  sight;  and,  taken  altogether,  the 
quaintly  painted  church,  the  altar  with  its  lighted  candles 
and  singular  inmates,  the  kneeling  Indians  in  their  pictur- 
esque garbs,  and,  above  all,  the  sounds  sent  down  by  the 
bird  orchestra,  formed  a scene  not  easily  forgotten.  I be- 
lieve I was  more  pleased  with  this  simple  and  natural 
music  than  I have  ever  been  with  the  swelling  organs  and 
opera  - singers  who  adorn  the  galleries  of  our  churches  at 
home.  About  four  o’clock  this  afternoon  a party  of  seven 


CURIOUS  DANCE. 


103 


men  and  as  many  squaws  appeared  in  the  yard  in  front  of 
the  church,  accompanied  by  an  old  man  bearing  a tombe , 
and  commenced  one  of  their  dances. 

“ The  tombe  is  a peculiar  drum,  used  by  all  the  Indians  in 
this  country  at  their  festivals.  It  is  made  of  a hollow  log 
about  two  and  a half  feet  long,  and  fifteen  inches  in  diame- 
ter. A dried  hide,  from  which  the  hair  has  been  removed, 
is  stretched  over  either  end,  and  to  one  side  a short  pole  is 
lashed,  to  support  the  instrument  when  played  upon.  A 
drum-stick,  like  those  used  for  the  bass  drum,  but  with  a 
longer  handle,  is  employed  in  playing,  and  with  this  they 
pound  away  with  great  energy,  producing  a dull  roar,  which 
is  audible  at  a considerable  distance,  and  is  almost  deafen- 
ing to  one  unaccustomed  to  it,  if  approached  too  near.  The 
dancers  were  accompanied  by  a band  of  elderly  men,  who 
immediately  commenced  singing  in  time  with  the  bum- 
bum  of  the  tombe.  All  the  dancers  appeared  in  their  best 
attire,  the  men  and  squaws  wearing  large  sashes,  most 
fancifully  worked  and  dyed,  and  also  eagle  and  turkey 
feathers  in  their  hair  and  hanging  down  their  backs,  and 
from  the  waist  of  each  was  suspended  a skin  of  the  silver- 
gray  fox.  The  men’s  legs  were  naked  from  the  knee  down, 
and  painted  red.  Their  hair  hung  loose  upon  their  shoul- 
ders, and  both  men  and  women  had  their  hands  painted 
with  white  clay  in  such  a way  as  to  resemble  open-work 
gloves.  The  women  had  on  beautifully-worked  mantas, 
and  were  barefooted,  with  the  exception  of  a little  piece 
tied  about  the  heel,  which  looked  like  that  part  of  an  em- 
broidered slipper.  They  all  wore  their  hair  combed  over 
' their  faces  in  a manner  that  rendered  it  utterly  impossible 
to  recognize  any  of  them.  Every  man  carried  in  his  hand 
a gourd  partly  filled  with  little  pebbles,  which  he  shook  in 
exact  time  with  the  music.  They  dance  a kind  of  hop- 
step,  and  the  figure  is  something  like  the  countermarch, 


104 


THE  MOQUIS. 


the  couple  leading  up  toward  the  church,  and  then  turning, 
filed  back  again.  The  women  keep  their  elbows  close  to 
their  sides,  and  their  heels  pressed  firmly  together,  and  do 
not  raise  the  feet,  but  shuffle  along  with  a kind  of  rolling 
motion,  moving  their  arms,  from  the  elbows  down,  with 
time  to  the  step.  At  times  each  man  dances  around  his 
squaw,  while  she  turns  herself  about,  as  if  her  heels  formed 
a pivot  on  which  she  moved.  Dancers,  tombe,  and  singers 
keep  most  excellent  time,  and  there  is  no  discord  among 
the  gourds.  After  dancing  a short  time  in  front  of  the 
church,  they  went  into  the  Plaza  and  continued  till  dark, 
when  they  separated.” 

These  dances  were  continued  on  the  26th,  27th,  and  28th 
of  December,  in  the  same  manner  as  on  Christmas.  N 

On  the  81st  of  March,  1852,  the  doctor  visited  the  Mo- 
quis  at  their  villages.  He  says  of  them,  “ Between  eleven 
and  twelve  to-day  we  arrived  at  the  first  towns  of  Moqui. 
All  the  inhabitants  turned  out,  crowding  the  streets  and 
house-tops  to  have  a view  of  the  white  men.  All  the  old 
men  pressed  forward  to  shake  hands  with  us,  and  we  were 
at  once  feasted  upon  guavas  and  a leg  of  mutton  broiled  on 
coals.  After  the  feast  we  smoked  with  them,  and  tkey 
then  said  that  we  should  move  our  camp  in,  and  that  they 
would  give  us  a room  and  plenty  of  wood  for  the  men,  and 
sell  us  corn  for  the  animals;  accordingly,  our  command 
was  moved  into  town. 

“ The  three  villages  here  are  situated  on  a strong  bluff 
about  800  feet  high,  and  from  80  to  150  feet  wide,  which  is 
approached  by  a trail  passable  for  horses  at  only  one  point. 
This  is  very  steep,  and  an  hour’s  work  in  throwing  down 
stones,  with  which  it  is  in  many  places  built  up,  could  ren- 
der it  utterly  inaccessible  to  horsemen.  At  all  other  points 
they  have  constructed  footpaths,  steps,  etc.,  by  which  they 
pass  up  and  down.  The  side  of  the  rock  is  not  perfectly 


DANCE  OF  MOQUIS. 


105 


perpendicular,  but,  after  a sheer  descent  of  60  or  70  feet, 
there  are  ledges  from  five  to  eight  yards  wide,  on  which 
they  have  established  their  sheep-folds.  The  bluff  is  about 
800  yards  long,  and  the  towns  are  some  180  yards  apart. 

“ The  houses  are  built  of  stone,  laid  in  mud  (which  must 
have  been  brought  from  the  plain  below,  as  there  is  not  a 
particle  of  soil  upon  the  rock),  and  in  the  same  form  as  the 
other  pueblos.  They  are  whitewashed  inside  with  white 
clay.  Hanging  by  strings  from  the  rafters  I saw  some  cu- 
rious and  rather  horrible  little  Aztec  images,  made-  of  wood 
or  clay,  and  decorated  with  paint  and  feathers,  which  the 
guide  told  me  were  £ saints but  I have  seen  the  children 
playing  with  them  in  the  most  irreverent  manner.” 

Speaking  of  the  dances  of  the  Moquis,  the  doctor  says : 
“ The  dance  of  to-day  has  been  a most  singular  one,  and 
differs  from  any  I have  seen  among  the  other  Pueblo  In- 
dians, the  dresses  of  the  performers  being  more  quaint  and 
rich.  There  were  twenty  men  and  as  many  women,  ranged 
in  two  files.  The  dresses  of  the  men  were  similar  to  those 
before  described,  except  that  they  wear  on  their  heads  large 
pasteboard  towers,  painted  typically,  and  curiously  decora- 
ted with  feathers,  and  each  man  has  his  face  entirely  cover- 
ed with  a visor  made  of  small  willows  with  the  bark  peeled 
off,  and  dyed  a deep  brown.  The  women  all  have  their 
hair  put  up  in  the  manner  peculiar  to  virgins ; and  immedi- 
ately in  the  centre,  where  the  hair  is  parted,  a long,  straight 
eagle’s  feather  is  fixed.  But  by  far  the  most  beautiful  part 
of  their  dress  is  a tilma  of  some  three  and  a half  feet  square, 
which  is  thrown  over  the  shoulders,  fastened  in  front,  and, 
hanging  down  behind,  reaches  half  way  below  the  knee. 
This  tilma  is  pure  white.  Its  materials  I should  suppose 
to  be  cotton  or  wool.  Its  texture  is  very  fine,  and  it  has 
one  or  more  wide  borders  of  beautiful  colors,  exceedingly 
well  wrought  in  and  of  curious  patterns.  The  women  also 


106 


MOQUI  MUSIC. 


wear  visors  of  willow  sticks,  which  are  colored  a bright  yel- 
low, and  arranged  in  parallel  rows  like  Pandean  pipes.  On 
each  side  of  the  files  is  placed  a small  boy,  who  dances  or 
canters  up  and  down  the  line,  and  is  most  accurately  mod- 
eled after  the  popular  representation  of  his  satanic  majes- 
ty’s imps.  With  the  exception  of  a very  short-fringed  tu- 
nic reaching  just  below  the  hip-joint,  and  a broad  sash  fast- 
ened around  the  waist,  the  boy  is  entirely  naked.  The 
whole  body  is  painted  black,  relieved  by  white  rings  placed 
at  regular  intervals  over  the  whole  person.  The  appear- 
ance of  these  little  imps  as  they  gamboled  along  the  line  of 
dancers  was  most  amusing.  They  had  neither  a tombe  ac- 
companiment nor  a band  of  singers ; but  the  dancers  fur- 
nished their  own  music,  and  a most  strange  sound  it  was, 
resembling  very  much  the  noise,  on  a large  scale,  of  a swarm 
of  blue-bottle-flies  in  an  empty  hogshead.  The  dance  was 
a most  monotonous  one,  the  dancers  remaining  in  the  same 
place,  and  alternately  lifting  their  feet  in  time  to  the  song 
and  the  gourds.  The  only  change  of  position  was  an  occa- 
sional 1 about  face.’ 

“ When  they  first  came  in,  two  old  men,  who  acted  as 
masters  of  ceremonies,  went  along  the  whole  line,  and,  with 
a powder  held  between  the  thumb  and  fore  finger,  anoint- 
ed each  dancer  on  the  shoulder.  After  dancing  a while 
in  the  mode  above  described,  the  ranks  were  opened,  and, 
rugs  and  blankets  being  spread  upon  the  ground,  the  vir- 
gins squatted  on  them,  while  the  men  kept  up  a kind  of 
murmuring  dance  in  front.  Every  third  or  fourth  female 
had  at  this  time  a large  hollow  gourd  placed  before  her,  on 
which  rested  a grooved  piece  of  wood,  shaped  like  an  old- 
fashioned  wash-board,  and  by  drawing  the  dry  shoulder- 
blade  of  a sheep  rapidly  across  this,  a sound  was  produced 
similar  to  that  of  a watchman’s  rattle.  After  performing 
the  same  dance  on  each  side  of  the  Plaza,  they  left,  to  re- 


MASKS  AND  AMUSEMENTS. 


107 


turn  again  in  fifteen  minutes;  and  thus  they  kept  it  up 
from  sunrise  till  dark,  when  the  dancing  ceased. 

“As  appendages  to  the  feast,  they  had  clowns  who  served 
as  messengers  and  waiters,  and  also  to  amuse  the  spectators 
while  the  dancers  were  away.  The  first  batch  consisted  of 
six  or  eight  young  men  in  breech -clouts,  having  some 
comical  daubs  of  paint  on  their  faces  and  persons,  with 
wigs  made  of  black  sheepskins.  Some  wore  rams’  horns 
on  their  heads,  and  were  amusing  themselves  by  attempts 
at  dancing,  singing,  and  running  races,  when  they  were 
attacked  by  a huge  grizzly  bear  (or  rather  a fellow  in  the 
skin  of  one),  which,  after  a long  pursuit  and  many  hard 
fights,  they  brought  to  bay  and  killed.  They  then  imme- 
diately opened  him,  and  took  from  out  of  his  body  a quan- 
tity of  guavas,  green  corn,  etc.,  which  his  bearship  had  un- 
doubtedly appropriated  from  the  refreshments  provided  for 
the  clowns.  But  no  sooner  had  they  disposed  of  Bruin 
than  a new  trouble  came  upon  them  in  the  shape  of  two 
ugly  little  imps,  who,  prowling  about,  took  every  opportu- 
nity to  annoy  them ; and  when,  by  dint  of  great  persever- 
ance, they  succeeded  in  freeing  themselves  from  these  mis- 
shapen brats,  in  rushed  eight  or  ten  most  horrible-looking 
figures  (in  masks),  all  armed  with  whips,  which  they  did 
not  for  a moment  hesitate  to  apply  most  liberally  to  any  of 
the  poor  clowns  who  were  so  unlucky  as  to  fall  into  their 
clutches.  They  even  tied  some  hand  and  foot,  and  laid  them 
out  in  the  Plaza. 

“ It  seemed  they  were  of  the  same  race  as  the  imps,  and 
came  to  avenge  the  treatment  they  had  received  at  the 
hands  of  the  clowns,  for  the  ‘ limbs  of  Satan’  returned  al- 
most immediately,  and  took  an  active  part  in  their  capture, 
and  in  superintending  the  flaggellating  operations.  Such 
horrible  masks  I never  saw  before ; noses  six  inches  long, 
mouths  from  ear  to  ear,  and  great  goggle  eyes  as  big  as 


108 


GREAT  FATHER  AND  MOTHER. 


half  a hen’s  egg,  hanging  by  a string  partly  out  of  the 
socket. 

“ The  simple  Indians  appeared  highly  delighted  with 
these  performances,  and  I must  avow  having  had  many  a 
hearty  laugh  at  their  whimsicalities. 

“While  the  dances  were  going  on,  large  baskets  filled 
with  guavas  of  different  forms  and  colors,  roasted  corn, 
bread,  meat,  and  other  eatables,  were  distributed  by  the  vir- 
gins among  the  spectators.  The  old  governor  tells  me  this 
evening  that  it  is  contrary  to  their  usages  to  permit  the  fe- 
males to  dance,  and  that  those  whom  I supposed  to  be 
young  virgins  were  in  fact  young  men,  dressed  for  the  oc- 
casion. This  is  a custom  peculiar  to  the  Moquis,  I think, 
for  in  all  other  pueblos  I visited  the  women  dance. 

“ The  government  of  these  people  is  hereditary,  but  does 
not  necessarily  descend  to  the  sons  of  the  incumbent ; for 
if  the  people  prefer  any  other  blood  relation,  he  is  chosen. 

“ The  population  of  the  seven  villages  I should  estimate 
at  8000,  of  which  one  half  is  found  in  the  first  three.  They 
say  that  of  late  years  wars  and  diseases  have  greatly  de- 
creased their  numbers.  They  spoke  of  fevers  and  disease, 
which  I supposed  to  be  phthisis  and  pertussis.  They  ob- 
serve no  particular  burial  rites.  They  believe  in  the  exist- 
ence of  a Great  Father,  who  lives  where  the  sun  rises,  and  a 
Great  Mother,  who  lives  where  the  sun  sets.  The  first  is 
the  author  of  all  the  evils  that  befall  them,  as  war,  pesti- 
lence, famine,  etc. ; and  the  Great  Mother  is  the  very  re- 
verse of  this,  and  from  her  are  derived  the  blessings  they 
enjoy.  In  the  course  of  the  ‘talk,’  the  principal  governor 
made  a speech,  in  which  he  said,  ‘ Now  we  all  know  that 
it  is  good  the  Americans  have  come  among  us,  for  our 
Great  Father,  who  lives  where  the  sun  rises,  is  pacified ; and 
our  Great  Mother,  who  lives  where  the  sun  sets,  is  smiling, 
and,  in  token  of  her  approbation,  sends  fertilizing  showers 


MOQUI  AGRICULTURE. 


109 


* 

(it  was  snowing  at  the  time),  which  will  enrich  our  fields, 
and  enable  us  to  raise  the  harvest  whereby  we  subsist.’ 

“ Of  their  origin  they  give  the  following  account: 

“ Many,  many  years  ago,  their  Great  Mother  brought  from 
her  home  in  the  west  nine  races  of  men,  in  the  following 
forms : first,  the  deer  race ; second,  the  sand  race ; third, 
the  water  race ; fourth,  the  bear  race ; fifth,  the  hare  race  ; 
sixth,  the  prairie-wolf  race ; seventh,  the  rattlesnake  race ; 
eighth,  the  tobacco-plant  race ; ninth,  the  seed-grass  race. 
Having  placed  them  on  the  spot  where  their  villages  now 
stand,  she  transformed  them  into  men,  who  built  the  pres- 
ent pueblos,  and  the  distinction  of  races  is  still  kept  up. 
One  told  me  he  was  of  the  sand  race,  another  the  deer,  etc. 
They  are  firm  believers  in  metempsychosis,  and  say  that 
when  they  die  they  will  resolve  into  their  original  forms, 
and  become  bears,  deer,  etc.  The  chief  governor  is  of  the 
deer  race. 

“ Shortly  after  the  pueblos  were  built,  the  Great  Mother 
came  in  person,  and  brought  them  all  the  domestic  animals 
they  now  have,  which  are  principally  sheep  and  goats,  and 
a few  very  large  donkeys.  The  sacred  fire  is  kept  contin- 
ually burning  by  the  old  men,  and  all  I could  glean  from 
them  was  that  some  great  misfortune  would  befall  their 
people  if  they  allowed  it  to  be  extinguished.  They  know 
nothing  of  Montezuma,  and  have  never  had  any  Spanish 
or  other  missionaries  among  them.  All  the  seeds  they  pos- 
sess were  brought  from  where  the  morning  star  rises.  They 
plant  in  May  or  June,  and  harvest  in  October  or  Novem- 
ber. They  do  not  plow  or  irrigate,  but  put  their  seeds  in 
the  sand,  and  depend  upon  the  rains  for  water.  They  raise 
corn,  melons,  pumpkins,  beans,  and  onions;  also  a cotton 
of  which  I procured  a specimen,  and  a species  of  mongrel 
tobacco.  They  have  also  a few  peach-. trees,  and  are  the 
only  Pueblo  Indians  who  raise  cotton.  They  have  no 

K 


110 


MARRIAGE  CUSTOMS. 


* 

small  grain  of  any  kind.  They  say  they  have  known  the 
Spaniards  ever  since  they  can  remember.  About  twenty 
years  ago,  a party  of  some  fifteen  Americans,  the  first  they 
ever  saw,  came  over  the  mountains  and  took  the  Zuni  trail. 
Six  years  afterward,  another  party,  with  four  females,  pass- 
ed through. 

“ Their  mode  of  marriage  might  well  be  introduced  into 
the  United  States,  with  the  Bloomer  costume.  Here,  in- 
stead of  the  swain  asking  the  hand  of  the  fair  one,  she  se- 
lects the  young  man  who  is  to  her  fancy,  and  then  her  fa- 
ther proposes  the  match  to  the  sire  of  the  lucky  youth. 
This  proposition  is  never  refused.  The  preliminaries  being 
arranged,  the  young  man,  on  his  part,  furnishes  two  pairs 
of  moccasins,  two  fine  blankets,  two  mattresses,  and  two 
sashes  used  at  the  feast;  while  the  maiden,  for  her  share, 
provides  an  abundance  of  eatables,  when  the  marriage  is 
celebrated  by  feasting  and  dancing. 

“ Polygamy  is  unknown  among  them ; but  at  any  time, 
if  either  of  the  parties  become  dissatisfied,  they  can  divorce 
themselves,  and  marry  others  if  they  please.  In  case  there 
are  children,  they  are  taken  care  of  by  the  respective  grand- 
parents. They  are  simple,  happy,  and  most  hospitable  peo- 
ple. The  sin  of  intoxication  is  unknown  among  them,  as 
they  have  no  kind  of  fermented  liquors.  When  a stranger 
visits  one  of  their  houses,  the  first  act  is  to  set  food  before 
him,  and  nothing  is  done  ‘till  lie  has  eaten.’ 

“In  every  village  are  one  or  more  edifices  underground, 
and  you  descend  a ladder  to  get  into  them.  They  answer 
to  our  village  groceries,  being  a place  of  general  resort  for 
the  male  population.  I went  into  one  of  them.  In  the 
centre  was  a small  square  box  of  stone,  in  which  was  a fire 
of  guava  bushes,  and  around  this  a few  old  men  were 
smoking.  All  around  the  room  were  Indians  naked  to  the 
‘breech-clout;’  some  were  engaged  in  sewing,  and  others 
spinning  and  knitting. 


HARNO. 


Ill 


“ On  a bench  in  the  background  sat  a warrior  most  ex- 
travagantly painted,  who  was  undoubtedly  undergoing  some 
ordeal,  as  I was  not  allowed  to  approach  him.  They  knit, 
weave,  and  spin,  as  in  the  other  pueblos,  and,  besides,  make 
fabrics  of  cotton. 

“ The  villages  of  the  Moquis  are  seven  in  number,  and 
more  nearly  correspond  to  the  seven  cities  of  Cibola  than 
any  which  have  yet  been  discovered.  They  are  situated 
in  the  same  valley — they  are  upon  a bluff.  Oraivaz,  called 
Musquins  by  the  Mexicans,  is  almost  due  west  from  the 
bluff,  and  about  thirty  miles  distant.  There  is  another 
town  at  twenty  miles  west  by  south,  and  two  more  about 
south-southwest,  and  some  eight  or  ten  miles  distant  from 
the  first  three.  Of  these,  the  two  at  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  bluff  are  the  largest,  containing  probably  2000  in- 
habitants ; Oraivaz  is  the  second  in  size.  They  all  speak 
the  same  language  except  Harno,  the  most  northern  town 
of  the  three,  which  has  a language  and  some  customs  pecul- 
iar to  itself. 

“It  seems  a very  singular  fact  that,  being  within  150 
yards  of  the  middle  town,  Harno  should  have  for  so  long  a 
period  its  own  language  and  customs.  The  other  Moquis 
say  the  inhabitants  of  this  town  have  a great  advantage 
over  them,  as  they  perfectly  understand  the  common  lan- 
guage, and  none  but  the  people  of  Harno  understand  their 
dialect.  The  women  are  the  prettiest  squaws  I have  yet 
seen,  and  are  very  industrious.  Their  manner  of  dressing 
the  hair  is  very  pretty.  While  virgins,  it  is  done  up  on 
each  side  of  the  head  in  two  inverse  rolls,  which  bear  some 
resemblance  to  the  horns  of  the  mountain  sheep.  After 
marriage  they  wear  it  in  two  large  knots  on  each  side  of 
the  face.  These  people  make  the  same  kind  of  pottery  as 
the  Zunians  and  Lagunians.” 

Notwithstanding  the  country  west  of  the  Rio  del  Norte 


112 


OTHER  EXPEDITIONS. 


presents  so  barren  and  forbidding  an  aspect  that  it  is  only 
here  and  there  along  the  immediate  borders  of  the  few  wa- 
ter-courses that  the  soil  will  yield  any  returns  to  the  hus- 
bandman, yet  this  country  was  once  much  more  populous 
than  at  present.  The  numerous  ruins  of  houses  and  towns 
scattered  all  over  the  country  most  incontestably  establish 
this  fact;  moreover,  the  character  of  these  ruins  goes  to 
show  that  the  people  who  erected  them  were  more  ad- 
vanced in  architecture  than  the  Pueblo’s,  or  any  other  In- 
dians now  existing  in  that  country. 

Captain  Sitgreaves,  in  his  expedition  from  Zuni  to  the 
Colorado,  passed  for  nine  miles  through  a continuous  suc- 
cession of  these  ruins,  in  a locality  where  there  was  no  wa- 
ter for  many  miles,  which  induced  him  to  believe  that  the 
disintegration  of  the  rocks  from  the  surrounding  heights 
had  filled  up  the  beds  of  the  streams,  and  rendered  the  sit- 
uation of  this  ancient  city  uninhabitable. 

Captain  J.  H.  Simpson,  United  States  Engineers,  who  in 
1849  was  attached  to  an  expedition  made  into  the  Navahoe 
country,  in  Northwest  New  Mexico,  describes  the  ruins  of 
several  enormous  houses  he  met  with,  which  were  built  of 
stone,  in  a style  of  architecture  and  masonry  far  better  than 
that  we  find  in  the  pueblos  that  are  now  occupied.  Some 
of  these  houses  contained  from  100  to  160  rooms,  each  upon 
the  ground  floors,  all,  excepting  the  estufas,  of  small  dimen- 
sions, and  not  exceeding  twelve  by  eight  feet  in  area ; the 
doors  only  about  three  feet  by  two,  and  the  windows  some 
twelve  inches  square,  with  no  chimneys.  They  all  had  the 
large  underground  council-rooms,  or  estufas,  like  those  in 
the  pueblos  of  the  present  day,  and  this  would  seem  to  in- 
dicate that  they  were  built  by  a race  of  people  having  sim- 
ilar habits ; yet  the  Pueblo  Indians  do  not  pretend  to  know 
any  thing  about  their  origin.  All  that  can  be  gleaned  from 
them  upon  the  subject  is,  that  they  are  “ casas  grandes ” (big 


\ 


OLD  WOOD. 


113 


houses),  which  is  very  apparent.  What  appears  very  mys- 
terious to  me  in  regard  to  it  is  that  the  beams,  rafters,  and 
floors  in  some  of  these  ruins  should  have  remained  for  so 
great  a length  of  time  as  sound  and  perfect  as  they  were 
when  put  in,  in  some  instances  even  exhibiting  the  print 
of  the  dull  (probably)  stone  axe  used  in  cutting  them. 

If  the  origin  of  these  ruins  was  of  a date  anterior  to  the 
discovery  of  New  Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  I can  only  ac- 
count for  the  preservation  of  the  wood-work  from  the  fact 
of  the  extreme  purity  and  dryness  of  the  atmosphere. 

K* 


114 


RED  RIVER  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

RED  RIVER  EXPEDITION. 

Red  River  Expedition.  — Order. — Early  Efforts  to  explore  it. — Navigable 
Portion. — Copper  Ores. — New  Ore. — Dr.  Hitchcock’s  Opinion. — Great 
Gypsum  Belt. — Cause  of  bad  Taste  in  the  Water. — Witchita  Mountains. 
— Extent  of  Choctaw  Reservation. — Beautiful  Country. — Visit  ofWitche- 
taws. — Buffaloes. — Comanche  Trails. — Buffalo  Chase. — Panther  killed. — 
Unaccountable  Appearance  of  Water. — South  Winds. — Encamping. — 
Head  of  North  Fork. — Visit  to  Canadian  River. — Mirage. — Head  of  Salt 
Fork. — Lafio-Estacado. — Prairie  Dog  Town. — Leaving  the  Train. — Bad 
Water. — Suffering  from  the  Effects  of  bad  Water. — Reach  the  Head  of 
the  main  Fork  of  Red  River. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Bears. — Remarkable 
Canon. 

On  the  5th  of  March,  1852, 1 received  the  following  order: 

(special  orders,  no.  33.) 

“ Adjutant  General's  Office , Washington,  March  5,  1862. 

“ Captain  R.  B.  Marcy,  5th  Infantry,  with  his  company  as 
an  escort,  will  proceed,  without  unnecessary  delay,  to  make 
an  examination  of  the  Red  River  and  the  country  border- 
ing upon  it,  from  the  mouth  of  Cache  Creek  to  its  sources, 
according  to  the  special  instructions  with  which  he  will  be 
furnished. 

******* 

“ Brevet  Captain  G.  B.  McClellan,  Corps  of  Engineers,  is 
assigned  duty  with  this  expedition.  * * * * 

“By  command  of  Major  General  Scott. 

“(Signed)  R.  Jones,  Adjutant  General .” 

As  some  of  the  most  interesting  events  connected  with 
this  expedition  may  possess  sufficient  attraction  for  many 
who  feel  an  interest  in  such  matters  to  compensate  them  for 


EARLY  RED  RIVER  EXPLORATIONS. 


115 


the  perusal,  I have  determined  to  give  them  a passing  no- 
tice here. 

I had  spent  the  greater  portion  of  the  three  previous 
years  in  exploring  the  country  lying  upon  the  Canadian 
River  of  the  Arkansas,  and  upon  the  head  waters  of  the 
Trinity,  Brazos,  and  Colorado  Rivers  of  Texas. 

During  this  time  my  attention  had  frequently  been  called 
to  the  remarkable  fact  that  a great  portion  of  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  important  rivers  in  the  United  States  had 
remained  up  to  that  late  period  wholly  unexplored  and  un- 
known. The  only  information  we  had  upon  the  subject 
was  derived  from  Indians,  and  was,  of  course,  very  indefi- 
nite and  unsatisfactory ; in  a word,  the  country  embraced 
within  the  basin  of  Upper  Red  River  had  always  been  to 
us  a “ terra  incognita .” 

Several  enterprising  travelers  had  at  different  periods  at- 
tempted to  explore  this  river,  but  as  yet  none  had  succeed- 
ed in  finding  its  head  waters. 

At  a very  early  period  officers  were  sent  out  by  the 
French  government  to  explore  Red  River,  but  their  exam- 
inations appear  to  have  extended  no  farther  than  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  present  town  of  Natchitoches,  Louisiana.  On  the 
3d  of  May,  1806,  three  years  after  the  cession  to  the  United 
States,  by  the  First  Consul  of  the  French  Republic,  of  that 
vast  territory  then  known  as  Louisiana,  a small  party  known 
as  the  Exploring  Expedition  of  Red  River,  consisting  of 
Captain  Sparks,  Mr.  Freeman,  Lieutenant  Humphry,  and 
Dr.  Curtis,  with  seventeen  private  soldiers,  embarked  at  St. 
Catharine’s  Landing,  near  Natchez,  Mississippi,  and  started 
to  ascend  Red  River  to  its  sources. 

This  party  encountered  many  difficulties  and  obstructions 
in  the  navigation  of  the  river,  among  the  numerous  bayous 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  great  raft,  but  finally  overcame  them 
all,  and  found  themselves  above  this  formidable  obstacle. 


116 


PIKE  S EXPEDITION. 


They  were,  however,  here  met  by  a large  force  of  Spanish 
troops,  the  commander  of  which  forced  them  to  turn  back 
and  abandon  the  enterprise. 

Another  expedition  was  fitted  out  in  1806  by  our  gov- 
ernment, and  placed  under  the  command  of  that  enterpris- 
ing young  traveler,  Lieutenant  Pike,  who  was  ordered  to 
ascend  the  Arkansas  River  to  its  sources,  thence  to  strike 
across  the  country  to  the  head  of  the  Red  River,  and  de- 
scend that  stream  to  Natchitoches.  After  encountering 
many  privations,  and  intense  sufferings  in  the  deep  snows 
of  the  lofty  mountains  about  the  head  waters  of  the  Ar- 
kansas, Lieutenant  Pike  arrived  finally  upon  a stream 
running  to  the  east,  which  he  took  to  be  Reef  River,  but 
which  subsequent^  proved  to  be  the  Rio  Grande.  Here 
he  was  taken  by  the  Governor  of  New  Mexico  and  sent 
home  by  way  of  Chihuahua  and  San  Antonio,  thus  putting 
a stop  to  his  explorations. 

General  Wilkinson,  under  whose  orders  Lieutenant  Pike 
was  serving  at  the  time,  states,  in  a letter  to  him  after  his 
return,  as  follows:  “The  principal  object  of  your  expedi- 
tion up  the  Arkansas  was  to  discover  the  true  position  of 
the  sources  of  Red  River.  This  was  not  accomplished.” 
Lieutenant  Pike,  however,  from  the  most  accurate  informa- 
tion he  could  obtain,  gives  the  geographical  position  of  the 
sources  of  Red  River  as  in  latitude  38°  N.,  and  longitude 
104°  W.  Again,  in  1819-20,  Colonel  Long,  of  the  United 
States  Topographical  Engineers,  on  his  return  from  an  ex- 
ploration of  the  Missouri  River  and  the  country  lying  be- 
tween that  stream  and  the  head  of  the  Arkansas,  undertook 
to  descend  the  Red  River  from  its  sources.  The  colonel, 
in  speaking  of  this  in  his  interesting  report,  says:  “We 
arrived  at  a creek  having  a westerly  course,  which  we  took 
to  be  a tributary  of  Red  River.  Having  traveled  down 
its  valley  about  two  hundred  miles,  we  fell  in  with  a party 


long’s  expedition. 


117 


of  Indians,  of  the  nation  of 1 Kaskias,’  or  ‘ Bad  Hearts,’  who 
gave  us  to  understand  that  the  stream  along  which  we  were 
traveling  was  Red  River.  We  accordingly  continued  our 
march  down  the  river  several  hundred  miles  farther,  when, 
to  our  no  small  disappointment,  we  discovered  it  was  the 
Canadian  of  the  Arkansas,  instead  of  Red  River,  that  we 
had  been  exploring. 

“ Our  horses  being  nearly  worn  out  with  the  fatigue  of 
our  long  journey,  which  they  had  to  perform  barefooted, 
and  the  season  being  too  far  advanced  to  admit  of  our  re- 
tracing our  steps  and  going  back  again  in  quest  of  the 
source  of  Red  River,  with  the  possibility  of  exploring  it 
before  the  commencement  of  winter,  it  was  deemed  advis- 
able to  give  over  the  enterprise  for  the  present  and  make 
our  way  to  the  settlements  on  the  Arkansas.  We  were 
led  to  the  commission  of  this  mistake  in  consequence  of 
our  not  having  been  able  to  procure  a good  guide  acquaint- 
ed with  that  part  of  the  country.  Our  only  dependence  in 
this  respect  was  upon  Pike’s  map,  which  assigns  to  the 
head  waters  of  Red  River  the  apparent  locality  of  those  of 
the  Canadian.” 

Dr.  James,  who  accompanied  Colonel  Long,  in  his  jour- 
nal of  the  expedition,  says : “ Several  persons  have  recent- 
ly arrived  at  St.  Louis,  in  Missouri,  from  Santa  Fe,  and, 
among  others,  the  brother  of  Captain  Shreeves,  who  gives 
information  of  a large  and  frequented  road,  which  runs 
nearly  due  east  from  that  place,  and  strikes  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  Canadian  ; that,  at  a considerable  distance 
south  of  this  point,  in  the  high  plain,  is  the.  principal  source 
of  Red  River. 

“ His  account  confirms  an  opinion  we  had  previously 
formed,  namely,  that  the  branch  of  the  Canadian  explored 
by  Major  Long’s  party  in  August,  1820,  has  its  sources  near 
those  of  some  stream  which  descends  toward  the  west  into 


118 


humboldt’s  mistake. 


the  Rio  del  Norte,  and,  consequently,  that  some  other  re- 
gion must  contain  the  head  of  Red  River.”  He  continues: 

“From  a careful  comparison  of  all  the  information  we 
have  been  able  to  collect,  we  are  satisfied  that  the  stream 
on  which  we  encamped  on  the  81st  of  August  is  the  Rio 
Raijo  of  Humboldt,  long  mistaken  for  the  sources  of  Red 
River  of  Natchitoches.  In  a region  of  red  clay  and  sand, 
where  all  the  streams  become  nearly  the  color  of  arterial 
blood,  it  is  not  surprising  that  several  rivers  should  have 
received  the  same  name ; nor  is  it  surprising  that  so  accu- 
rate a topographer  as  the  Baron  Humboldt,  having  learned 
that  a red  river  rises  forty  or  fifty  miles  east  of  Santa  Fe, 
and  runs  to  the  east,  should  conjecture  it  might  be  the 
source  of  Red  River  of  Natchitoches. 

“ This  conjecture  (for  it  is  no  more)  we  believed  to  have 
been  adopted  by  our  geographers,  who  have  with  much  • 
confidence  made  their  delineations  and  their  accounts  to 
correspond  with  it.” 

Hence  it  will  be  seen  that  up  to  this  time  there  was  no 
record  of  any  traveler  having  reached  the  sources  of  Red 
River,  and  that  the  country  upon  the  head  waters  of  that 
stream  had  heretofore  been  unexplored.  The  Mexicans, 
and  Indians  on  the  borders  of  Mexicd,  are  in  the  habit  of 
calling  any  river,  the  waters  of  which  have  a red  appear- 
ance, “Rio  Colorado,”  or  Red  River,  and  they  have  applied 
this  name  to  the  Canadian  in  common  with  several  others; 
and  as  many  of  the  prairie  Indians  often  visit  the  Mex- 
icans, and  some  even  speak  the  Spanish  language,  it  is 
a natural  consequence  that  they  should  adopt  the  same 
nomenclature  for  rivers,  places,  etc.  Thus,  if  a traveler  in 
New  Mexico  were  to  inquire  for  the  head  of  Red  River,  he 
would  most  undoubtedly  be  directed  to  the  Canadian,  and 
the  same  would  also  be  the  case  in  the  adjacent  Indian 
country.  These  facts  will  account  for  the  mistake  into 


DR.  GREGG’S  RIO  NEGRO. 


119 


which  Baron  Humboldt  was  led,  and  it  will  also  account 
for  the  error  into  which  Colonel  Long  and  Lieutenant  Pike 
have  fallen  in  regard  to  the  sources  of  the  stream  which  we 
call  Bed  Kiver. 

Dr.  Gregg,  in  his  “ Commerce  of  the  Prairies,”  tells  us 
that  on  his  way  down  the  south  bank  of  the  Canadian  his 
Comanche  guide,  Manuel  (who,  by*the-by,  traveled  six  hund- 
red miles  with  me  upon  the  Plains,  and  whom  I always 
found  reliable),  pointed  out  to  him  breaks  or  bluffs  upon  a 
stream  to  the  south  of  the  Canadian,  near  what  we  ascer- 
tained to  be  the  true  position  of  the  head  of  the  north 
branch  of  Bed  Biver,  and  where  it  approaches  within  twen- 
ty-five miles  of  the  Canadian.  These  bluffs  he  said  were 
upon  the  “ Bio  Negro,”  which  the  doctor  supposed  to  be 
the  Witchita  Biver ; but,  after  having  examined  that  section  * 
of  country,  I am  satisfied  that  the  north  branch  of  Bed 
Biver  must  have  been  alluded  to  by  the  guide,  as  the 
Witchita  rises  farther  to  the  east.  It  therefore  seems  prob- 
able that  “Bio  Negro”  is  the  name  which  the  Mexicans 
have  applied  to  Bed  Biver  of  Louisiana. 

Having  organized  my  party,  and  laid  in  a supply  of  pro- 
visions for  our  expedition  at  Fort  Belknap,  on  the  Brazos 
Biver,  in  Texas,  we,  on  the  1st  day  of  May,  left  that  post, 
and  on  the  9th  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Cache  Creek,  the 
point  at  which  we  were  ordered  to  commence  our  examina- 
tions. 

This  point  was  at  that  time  about  two  hundred  miles,  by 
the  meanderings  of  the  river,  above  the  remotest  white  set- 
tlements where  steam-boats  had  yet  reached.  I am  confi- 
dent, however,  that  at  a high  stage  there  will  be  sufficient 
depth  of  water  to  allow  small  steamers  to  ascend  the  river 
about  fifty  miles  above  Cache  Creek. 

At  a low  stage  of  water  the  river  becomes  very  shallow, 
and  can  then  be  forded  at  almost  any  point.  At  the  mouth 


120 


MARCYLITE. 


of  Cache  Creek  the  Red  River  was  about  two  hundred 
yards  wide  and  four  feet  deep,  with  a current  of  three  miles 
per  hour. 

Cache  Creek  takes  its  rise  in  the  Witchita  chain  of 
mountains.  It  is,  at  the  mouth,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
wide  and  three  feet  deep,  flowing  rapidly  over  a hard  clay 
and  gravel  bed,  between  high,  abrupt  banks,  through  a val- 
ley about  a “mile  wide  of  rich  alluvium,  and  bordered  by 
timber,  which  is  the  best  I met  with  west  of  the  Cross  Tim- 
bers, and  well  adapted  for  building  purposes.  The  soil  in 
the  valley  is  admirably  suited  for  the  culture  of  all  kinds 
of  grain ; and  an  analysis  of  the  subsoil  by  Professor  Shep- 
hard, of  Amherst  College,  showed  that  it  possessed  strong 
and  enduring  constituents. 

* Just  before  we  reached  Cache  Creek  we  passed  a small 
stream,  where  we  picked  up  several  pieces  of  copper  ore 
lying  upon  the  surface,  where  the  rains  had  washed  away 
the  turf. 

The  analysis  of  these  specimens  by  Professor  Shephard 
is  alluded  to  in  his  report  as  follows:  “The  most  interest- 
ing of  the  copper  ores  submitted  by  Captain  Marcy  was  a 
specimen  from  the  main  or  South  Fork  of  Red  River,  near 
the  Witchita  Mountains. 

“It  is  a black,  compact  ore,  strongly  resembling  the  black 
oxide  of  copper  from  the  Lake  Superior  mines,  for  which 
substance  I. at  first  mistook  it.  It  was  partially  coated  by 
a thin  layer  of  the  rare  and  beautiful  atacamite. 

“ This  is  the  first  instance  in  which  this  species  has  been 
detected  in  North  America.  On  subjecting  the  black  ore 
to  a close  investigation,  it  proves  to  be  a substance  hitherto 
undescribed,  and  it  affords  me  much  pleasure  to  name  it,  in 
honor  of  the  very  enterprising  and_successful  explorer  to 
whom  mineralogy  is  indebted  for  the  discoyery,  Marcylite. 
In  small  fragments  it  melts  in  the  heat  of  a candle,  to  the 


COPPER  ORE. 


121 


flame  of  which  it  imparts  a rich  blue  and  green  color.  This 
is  especially  striking  when  a blowpipe  is  employed.  The 
slightest  heat  of  the  instrument  suffices  for  the  fusion  of 
the  ore.  The  chloride  of  copper  is  volatilized,  and  spreads 
over  the  charcoal  support,  from  which  the  splendid  green 
color  rises  also.  Analysis  gave  the  following  as  the  com- 
position of  the  ore : 


Copper 54.30 

Oxygen  and  Chlorine 36.20 

Water 9.50 


100.00, 

with  traces  of  Silica. 

“ The  above  is  undoubtedly  a very  valuable  ore  for  cop- 
per, as  it  is  very  rich  in  metal,  and  easy  of  reduction  in  the 
furnace.” 

We  discovered  traces  of  copper  ore  in  several  other  lo- 
calities on  Bed  Eiver,  and  also  upon  the  Big  Witchita,  in 
1854,  but  it  generally  occurred  in  small  detached  frag- 
ments, from  the  size  of  a pea  to  that  of  a hen’s  egg.  With 
one  exception,  however,  we  saw  no  veins  of  the  ore. 

While  upon  this  subject,  I take  occasion  to  relate  a cir- 
cumstance that  occurred  while  I was  stationed  at  Camp  Ar- 
buckle,  on  the  Canadian  Eiver,  during  the  autumn  of  1850. 

My  old  Delaware  guide,  Black  Beaver,  one  day  came  to 
me,  and,  taking  me  aside,  very  mysteriously  and  cautiously 
pulled  out  from  his  pocket  several  large  pieces  of  green  car- 
bonate of  copper,  at  the  same  time  saying,  “Maybe  so  mon- 
ey.” I assured  him  that  it  was  copper,  and  asked  him  if  it 
was  abundant  where  he  found  it.  He  said  there  was  11  a 
heap .”  And  upon  my  inquiring  whether  he  was  willing  to 
show  me  the  locality,  he  said,  “ Bob  Jones  (a  rich  Chicka- 
saw) he  say,  s’poze  find  um  copper  mine,  give  um  four  hund- 
red dollars.”  I informed  him  that  I was  willing  to  pay  the 
same  amount,  provided  the  ore  was  sufficiently  abundant, 

L 


122 


DELAWARE  LAW. 


and  an  arrangement  was  made  with  him  to  go  with  me  the 
following  morning  to  the  place  where  he  obtained  the  spec- 
imens. I made  my  arrangements,  accordingly,  for  an  early 
departure ; but  Beaver  did  not  make  his  appearance ; and, 
after  my  patience  was  exhausted  in  waiting,  I rode  over  to 
his  house,  where  I found  him  looking  very  sulky,  and  hav- 
ing apparently  made  no  preparations  for  the  trip.  I asked 
him  if  he  was  ready  to  go.  He  replied,  “I  s’pect  maybe  so 
I not  go,  captain.”  “Why  not?”  I inquired.  He  said, 
“Delaware  law,  s’poze  show  um  ’Merican  man  mine,  kill 
um.”  I then  endeavored  to  convince  him  that  there  was 
no  danger  of  any  one  knowing  where  we  proposed  to  go ; 
but  he  had  fully  determined  not  to  have  any  thing  farther 
to  do  with  it,  and  I could  not  persuade  him  to  change  his 
resolution. 

I however  succeeded  subsequently  in  discovering  the  lo- 
cality without  his  agency,  and  found  a considerable  quan- 
tity of  detached  pieces  of  the  ore,  some  of  which  were  as 
large  as  a man’s  head.  It  was  lying  upon  the  surface  of 
the  ground ; but  we  found  no  vein.  I believe,  however,  as 
we  traced  the  surface  ore  for  at  least  three  hundred  yards 
in  a direct  line,  that  excavations  might  discover  a vein  be- 
neath this  line. 

We  afterward  sent  a wagon,  and  transported  a load  of 
this  ore  to  Fort  Smith,  and  it  was  sent  thence  to  Hew  Or- 
leans and  Liverpool,  where  it  was  smelted  by  a Welch 
mining  company,  and  the  proceeds  paid  all  the  expenses  of 
the  transportation.  Farther  than  this,  nothing  was  ever 
done. 

Doctor  Edward  Hitchcock,  in  speaking  of  the  prospects 
for  copper  in  the  country  npon  Red  River,  says  : 

“ How  much  copper  may  be  expected  in  such  a region 
as  that  on  Red  River  I have  no  means  of  judging,  because 
I know  of  no  analogous  formation ; but  as  we  have  proof 


GREAT  GYPSUM  FORMATION. 


123 


that  it  is  an  aqueous  deposit,  and  that  igneous  agency  has 
been  active  not  far  off  (this  is  a strongly -marked  character- 
istic upon  the  Big  Witchita),  it  would  not  be  strange  if  the 
vicinity  of  the  Witchita  Mountains  should  prove  a prolific 
locality.” 

From  the  geological  formation  of  the  Witchita  Mount- 
ains, and  the  character  of  the  quartz  and  the  black  sand 
which  we  observed  there,  we  were  induced  to  believe  that 
gold  might  be  found,  but  Dr.  Hitchcock  did  not  appear  to 
regard  this  as  of  much  consequence.  He  says : “ But, 
though  your  discovery  of  gold  (we  found  only  one  small 
specimen)  will  probably  excite  more  attention,  I feel  that 
the  great  gypsum  deposits  of  the  West  which  you  have 
brought  to  light *will  be  of  far  more  consequence  to  the 
country.” 

In  several  of  my  exploring  expeditions  I had  passed 
through  the  great  gypsum  belt  alluded  to  by  the  doctor,  in 
an  easterly  and  westerly  direction,  at  six  different  points  of 
latitude,  from  the  Canadian  River  on  the  north  to  the  Rio 
Grande  on  the  south,  and  have  observed  it  extending  in  a 
course  nearly  northeast  and  southwest  over  the  entire  dis- 
tance. It  is  from  50  to  100  miles  wide,  and  about  350 
miles  in  length,  and  is  embraced  within  the  meridians  99 
and  104J  of  west  longitude,  and  the  32d  and  the  36th  par- 
allels of  north  latitude. 

In  many  places  I have  observed  all  the  varieties  of  gyp- 
sum, from  the  common  plaster  of  Paris  of  commerce,  to 
pure  selenite,  and  among  specimens  of  the  latter  were  some 
pieces  three  feet  by  four  in  surface,  and  two  inches  in  thick- 
ness, and  as  perfectly  transparent  as  any  crown  glass  I ever 
saw.  Placing  one  of  these  specimens  upon  the  page  of  a 
book,  at  a short  distance  off,  it  was  impossible  to  tell  that 
any  thing  covered  it,  so  perfectly  plain  did  the  letters  show 
beneath  the  plate. 


124 


DR.  HITCHCOCK’S  REMARKS. 


It  is  to  be  regretted  that  I could  not  have  brought  home 
some  of  these  beautiful  specimens,  but  my  means  of  trans- 
portation were  too  limited  to  allow  it. 

Wherever  I have  encountered  this  mineral  I have  inva- 
riably found  the  water  bitter  and  unpalatable,  which  arises 
from  the  decomposition  of  the  rock,  as  an  analysis  of  the 
water  has  shown  that  the  taste  depends  upon  the  presence 
of  three  salts  in  nearly  equal  proportions,  two  of  which,  sul- 
phate of  -magnesia  or  Epsom  salts,  and  chloride  of  sodium, 
are  very  sapid. 

Dr.  Hitchcock  remarked  upon  the  formation  : “ I do  not 
wonder  that  you  were  deeply  impressed  with  the  vast  ex- 
tent of  this  deposit.” 

Professor  D.  D.  Owen,  in  his  late  valuable  report  of  a 
geological  survey  of  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  etc.  (1852),  describes 
a gypseous  deposit  twenty  to  thirty  feet  thick,  and  occupy- 
ing an  area  from  two  to  three  square  miles ; and  he  says 
that  “for  thickness  and  extent  this  is  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant bed  of  plaster-stone  known  west  of  the  Appalachian 
chain,  if  not  in  the  United  States.”  The  distinguished  pro- 
fessor did  not  of  course  know,  when  he  wrote  this,  that 
there  was  in  the  United  States  another  deposit  of  this  min- 
eral several  thousand  times  as  large  as  the  one  mentioned 
by  him.  * 

The  only  other  gypsum  formations  in  the  world  known 
to  geologists  which  compare  with  this  in  magnitude  are 
those  described  by  Mr.  Darwin  in  his  admirable  work  on 
the  geology  of  South  America,  and  are  situated  along  the 
western  slope  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  in  Patagonia  and  Chili. 
Some  of  these  beds  occur  of  the  enormous  thickness  of  six 
thousand  feet,  and  others  are  eleven  hundred  miles  in  sur- 
face extent. 

Dr.  Hitchcock  adds : “ The  specimens  of  this  gypsum  put 
into  my  hands  correspond  with  your  descriptions.  One  of 


THE  WITCHITA  CHAIN. 


125 


them,  of  snowy  whiteness,  and  compact,  it  seems  to  me 
might  answer  for  delicate  gypseous  alabaster,  so  extensive- 
ly wrought  in  other  lands  for  monumental  purposes.  The 
selenite  was  regarded  among  the  ancients  as  the  most  deli- 
cate variety  of  alabaster,  and  was  employed  by  the  wealthy, 
and  in  palaces  for  windows,  under  the  name  of  Phengites. 
It  has  the  curious  property  of  enabling  a person  within  the 
house  to  see  all  that  passes  abroad,  while  those  abroad  can 
not  see  what  is  passing  within ; hence  Nero  employed  it  in 
his  palace.  If  the  splendid  plates  which  you  describe  oc- 
cur in  any  quantity,  it  may  hereafter  be  of  commercial 
value,  as  it  certainly  will  be  of  mineral ogical  interest.” 

One  of  the  most  prominent  features  of  the  country  in  the 
Eed  Eiver  basin  is  the  Witchita  chain  of  mountains.  The 
following  quotations  from  my  journal,  written  upon  the 
ground,  will  give  my  impressions  as  I passed  through  them. 

“ The  chain  is  about  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  from  five 
to  fifteen  miles  wide,  running  about  south  60°  west.  These 
mountains,  and  those  at  the  head  of  the  Brazos  Eiver,  are 
the  only  elevations  of  any^  considerable  magnitude  in  all 
that  vast  expanse  of  territory  included  between,  the  Eed 
and  the  Pecos  Eivers.  Eising,  as  they  do,  in  the  midst  of 
a vast  naked  prairie,  they  present  a most  striking  and  anom- 
alous feature  in  the  scenery  of  that  otherwise  monotonous 
landscape. 

“ Their  conformation  is  generally  of  a coarse,  soft,  flesh- 
colored  granite,  the  peaks  conical,  occasionally  terminating 
in  sharp  points,  standing  at  intervals  of  from  one  fourth  to 
one  mile  apart.  Eed  Eiver  passes  directly  through  the 
western  extremity  of  the  chain. 

“ The  more  we  have  seen  of  the  country  about  these 
mountains,  the  more  pleased  we  have  been  with  it.  In- 
deed, I have  never  visited  any  country  that,  in  my  opinion, 
possessed  greater  natural  local  advantages  for  agriculture 

L* 


126 


SOIL  AND  CLIMATE. 


than  this.  Bounteous  Nature  seems  here  to  have  strewed 
her  favors  with  a lavish  hand,  and  to  have  held  out  every 
inducement  for  civilized  man  to  occupy  it.  The  numerous 
tributaries  of  Cache  Creek,  flowing  from  granite  fountains, 
and  winding,  like  net-work,  in  every  direction  through  the 
valleys  in  the  mountains — with  the  advantages  of  good 
timber,  soil,  and  grass,  the  pure,  elastic,  and  delicious  cli- 
mate, with  a bracing  atmosphere  — all  unite  in  presenting 
rare  inducements  to  the  husbandman.  It  would  only  be 
necessary  for  our  practical  farmers  to  visit  this  locality  ; 
they  could  not  be  otherwise  than  pleased  with  it.  And 
were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  the  greater  part  of  the  most 
desirable  lands  lie  east  of  the  100th  meridian  of  longitude, 
and  within  the  limits  of  that  vast  territory  ceded  by  our 
government  to  the  Choctaws  in  1831,  it  would  be  purchased 
and  settled  by  our  citizens  in  a very  few  years.  As  it  is 
now  situated,  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  settlements,  and 
directly  within  the  range  of  the  Comanches,  it  is  of  no  use 
to  the  Choctaws  themselves,  as  they  seldom  venture  among 
the  prairie  tribes,  and  do  not  even  know  the  character  of 
this  part  of  their  own  territory.  They  have  a superabund- 
ance of  fertile  lands  bordering  upon  the  Bed  and  Canadian 
Bivers,  near  the  white  settlements  of  Texas  and  Arkansas, 
and  they  prefer  occupying  those  to  going  farther  out.  They 
have  thrown  aside  their  primitive  habits  in  a great  degree, 
and  abandoned  the  precarious  and  uncertain  life  of  the 
hunter  for  the  more  quiet  avocation  of  the  husbandman. 
They  look  upon  the  wild  Indian  in  much  the  same  light 
as  we  do,  and  do  not  go  among  them ; indeed,  there  is  but 
little  in  common  with  them  and  the  wild  Indians.”* 

* The  lands  included  within  the  Choctaw  reservation,  which  are  not  oc- 
cupied or  made  use  of  by  them,  are  embraced  within  the  97th  and  100th 
degrees  of  west  longitude,  and  are  bounded  upon  the  north  and  south  by 
the  Canadian  and  Red  Rivers,  being  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in 


TIMBER. 


127 


The  remarks  which  follow  were  made  while  we  were 
encamped  at  an  old  Witchetaw  village  near  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  mountains. 

“Our  camp  is  upon  a branch  of  Cache  Creek,  about  a 
mile  above  the  village  last  occupied  by  the  Witchetaws,  be- 
fore they  left  the  mountains.  Here  they  lived  and  planted 
corn  for  several  years,  and  they  exhibited  much  taste  and 
judgment  in  selecting  this  site  for  their  town.  It  is  situated 
upon  an  elevated  plateau,  directly  along  the  south  bank  of 
the  creek,  and  commands  an  extended  view  of  the  country 
to  the  north,  south,  and  east.  From  its  commanding  posi- 
tion it  is  well  secured  against  surprise,  and  is,  by  nature, 
one  of  the  most  defensible  places  I have  seen. 

“ The  landscape  here  presented  to  the  eye  has  a most 
charming  diversity  of  scenery,  consisting  of  mountains, 
woodlands,  glades,  water-courses,  and  prairies,  all  laid  out 
and  arranged  in  such  peculiar  order  as  to  produce  a most 
delightful  effect  upon  the  senses. 

“ This  must  have  been  a favorite  spot  for  the  Indians, 
and  why  they  have  abandoned  it  I can  not  imagine,  unless 
it  was  through  fear  of  the  Comanches. 

“ The  soil  here,  in  point  of  fertility,  surpasses  any  thing 
we  have  before  seen,  and  the  vegetation  in  the  old  corn- 
fields, consisting  of  rank  weeds  twelve  feet  high,  was  so 
dense  that  it  was  difficult  to  force  a horse  through  it. 

“ The  timber  is  sufficiently  abundant  for  all  purposes  of 
the  agriculturist,  embracing  over-cup  (oak),  post- oak,  black 
walnut,  pecan,  hackberry,  ash,  black  or  Spanish  oak,  elm, 
and  China.  We  found  here  the  wild  passion-flower,  and  a 
beautiful  variety  of  the  sensitive  plant,  which  we  had  not 
before  met  with. 

length  by  fifty  in  width,  and  constituting  an  aggregate  of  about  nine  thou- 
sand square  miles  of  valuable  and  productive  lands,  or  one  thousand  square 
miles  more  than  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 


128 


PETROLEUM. 


“The  creek,  just  above  the  village,  flows  directly  at  the 
base  of  a perpendicular  wall  of  porphyritic  trap,  800  feet 
high,  and  studded  with  dwarf  cedars,  which,  taking  shallow 
root  in  the  crevices  of  the  formation,  receive  their  meagre 
sustenance  from  the  scanty  decomposition  of  the  rocks. 

“ This  interesting  escarpment  has  a columnar  structure, 
with  parallel  flutings  traversing  the  face  in  a vertical  direc- 
tion from  top  to  bottom,  and  has  the  appearance  of  being 
the  vertical  section  of  a round  hill  that  has  been  cleft  asun- 
der, and  one  half  removed. 

“ All  the  sides  of  this  hill,  except  that  upon  the  creek, 
are  smooth,  with  gentle  and  easy  slopes,  covered  with  grass 
up  to  the  very  verge  of  the  acclivity.  On  riding  up  the 
smooth  ascent  of  this  eminence,  and  suddenly  coming  upon 
the  edge  of  the  giddy  precipice,  one  involuntarily  recoils 
with  a shudder  at  the  appearance  of  this  strange  freak  of 
Nature.  Large  veins  of  quartz  traversed  this  formation, 
and,  upon  examination,  it  was  found  to  be  cellular,  like 
sponge  or  honey-comb,  with  the  cells  filled  with  liquid 
naphtha,  about  the  consistency  of  tar,  and  having  a strong 
resinous  odor.  (It  has  since  occurred  to  me  that  this  might 
have  been  the  petroleum  now  so  extensively  known  in 
commerce.) 

“On  the  27th  of  May,  shortly  after  we  had  pitched  our 
tents  upon  Otter  Creek,  a large  party  of  Indians  made  their 
appearance  on  the  opposite  bank,  and  requested  us  to  cut  a 
tree  for  them  to  cross  upon,  as  they  wished  to  have  a ‘ talk 
with  the  capitan.’  Accordingly,  we  cut  down  a tall  tree, 
which  fell  across  the  stream,  and  they  came  over,  and  en- 
camped near  us. 

“They  proved  to  be  a hunting  party  of  Witchetaws,  about 
150  in  number,  and  were  commanded  by  an  old  chief,  ‘Ca- 
naje-Hexie.’  They  had  with  them  a large  number  of 
horses  and  mules,  heavily  laden  with  jerked  buffalo  meat, 


DISCOURAGING  ACCOUNTS. 


129 


and  ten  wild  horses  which  they  had  lassoed  upon  the  prai- 
rie. They  said  they  had  been  in  search  of  us  for  several 
days ; having  learned  we  were  coming  up  Red  River,  they 
were  desirous  of  knowing  what  our  business  was  in  this 
part  of  their  country.  I replied  to  them  that  I was  going 
to  the  head  of  Red  River  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the 
Indians,  cultivating  their  friendship,  and  delivering  to  them 
‘ a talk’  from  the  Great  Captain  of  all  the  whites,  who,  in 
token  of  his  kindly  feelings,  had  sent  some  presents  to  be 
distributed  among  such  of  his  Red  children  as  were  friends 
to  .Americans ; and  as  many  of  them  continue  to  regard 
Texas  as  a separate  and  independent  republic,  I endeav- 
ored to  impress  upon  them  the  fact  that  the  inhabitants  of 
that  state  were  of  the  same  nation  as  the  whites  in  other 
parts  of  the  United  States.  I also  told  them  that  all  the 
prairie  tribes  would  be  held  responsible  for  the  depreda- 
tions committed  against  the  people  of  Texas,  as  well  as 
elsewhere  in  our  territories.  I made  inquiries  concerning 
the  country  through  which  we  still  had  to  pass  in  our  jour- 
nay, 

“They  said  we  would  find  one  more  stream  of  good  wa- 
ter about  two  days’  travel  from  here ; that  we  should  then 
leave  the  mountains,  and  after  that  find  no  more  fresh  wa- 
ter to  the  sources  of  the  river.  The  chief  represented  the 
river  from  where  it  leaves  the  mountains  as  flowing  over 
an  elevated,  flat  prairie  country,  totally  destitute  of  water, 
wood,  or  grass,  and  the  only  substitute  for  fuel  that  could 
be  had  was  the  buffalo  1 chips.’  They  remarked  in  the 
course  of  the  interview  that  some  few  of  their  old  men  had 
been  to  the  head  of  the  river,  and  that  the  journey  could 
be  made  in  eighteen  days  by  rapid  riding;  but  the  ac- 
counts given  by  those  who  had  made  the  journey  were  of 
such  a character  as  to  deter  others  from  attempting  it. 
They  said  we  need  have  no  apprehension  of  encountering 


130 


WANT  OF  WATER. 


Indians,  as  none  ever  visited  that  section.  I inquired  of 
them  if  there  were  not  holes  in  the  earth  where  the  water 
remained  after  rains.  They  said  no ; that  the  soil  was  of 
so  porous  a nature  that  it  soaked  up  the  water  as  soon  as  it 
fell.  I then  endeavored  to  hire  one  of  their  old  men  to  ac- 
company me  as  guide ; but  they  said  they  were  afraid  to 
go  into  the  country,  as  there  was  no  water,  and  they  were 
fearful  they  would  perish  before  they  could  return.  The 
chief  said,  in  conclusion,  that  perhaps  I might  not  credit 
their  statements,  but  that  I would  have  abundant  evidence 
of  the  truth  of  their  assertions  if  I ventured  much  farther 
with  my  command.  This  account  of  the  country  ahead  of 
us  was  truly  discouraging,  and  we  had  any  thing  but  an 
agreeable  prospect  before  us.  As  the  Indians,  from  their 
own  statements,  had  traveled  a great  distance  to  see  us,  I 
distributed  some  presents  among  them,  with  a few  rations 
of  pork  and  flour,  for  which  we  received  their  acknowledg- 
ments in  their  customary  style — by  begging  for  every  thing 
else  they  saw. 

“ About  25  miles  below  this  the  main  river  had  forked, 
and  we  had  taken  the  north  branch. 

“ After  passing  the  mountains,  we  arrived  at  a point  where 
the  branch  we  were  upon  again  divided,  into  two  nearly 
equal  branches. 

“The  water  in  the  south  branch  (which  I called  the 
1 Salt  Fork’)  is  bitter  and  nauseating.  The  water  in  the 
north  branch,  which  we  ascended,  was  not  sweet,  but  could 
be  drank.  It  was  at  the  confluence  105  feet  wide,  three 
feet  deep,  with  a rapid  current. 

“ June  1.  One  of  the  Delawares  caught  two  bear  cubs 
in  the  mountains  to-day,  one  of  which  he  brought  in  his 
arms  to  camp.  He  seems  perfectly  contented,  and  we  shall 
take  the  young  brute  along  with  us. 

“Our  course  here  leaves  the  mountains,  and  we  launch 


GAME. 


131 


out  into  the  prairie  before  us,  which  appears  to  be  an  unin- 
terrupted level  plain  as  far  as  the  eye  can  penetrate.  I 
can  not  leave  these  mountains  without  a feeling  of  sincere 
regret.  The  beautiful  and  majestic  scenery  throughout  the 
whole  extent  of  the  chain,  with  the  charming  glades  lying 
between  them,  clothed  with  luxuriant  sward  up  to  the  very 
bases  of  the  rugged  sides,  besides  the  many  springs  of  deli- 
cious water  bursting  forth  from  the  solid  walls  of  granite, 
and  bounding  along  over  the  debris  at  the  base,  forcibly  re- 
mind me  of  my  own  native  hills,  and  the  idea  of  leaving 
these  for  the  desert  plains  gives  rise  to  an  involuntary  feel- 
ing of  sadness  similar  to  that  I experienced  on  leaving  home. 

“ Our  course  led  us  up  along  the  North  Fork  over  a very 
monotonous  country,  with  nothing  of  special  interest  until, 
on  the  4th  of  June,  as  I was  riding  with  one  of  the  Dela- 
wares in  advance  of  the  train,  we  suddenly  (as  we  rose  upon 
an  eminence)  came  in  sight  of  four  buffalo  cows,  with  their 
calves,  very  quietly  grazing  in  a valley  below  us.  We  at 
once  put  spurs  to  our  horses,  and,  with  our  rifles  in  readi- 
ness, set  off  at  a brisk  gallop  in  pursuit,  but,  unfortunately, 
the  animals  had  ‘ the  wind’  of  us,  and  instantly  bounded 
away  over  the  prairie  at  full  speed.  We  followed  about 
three  miles,  but  they  had  so  much  the  start  that  we  could 
not  overtake  them  without  giving  our  horses  more  labor 
than  we  cared  about,  and  so  abandoned  the  chase. 

“ Our  greyhounds  caught  two  deer  in  fair  chase  upon  the 
open  prairie,  and  they  had  several  races  in  pursuit  of  ante- 
lopes, but  had  not  as  yet  been  able  to  come  up  with  them. 
We  occasionally  saw  a few  wild  turkeys,  but  they  were  not 
as  abundant  here  as  we  found  them  below.  There  were 
several  varieties  of  birds  around  our  camp,  among  which 
w^observed  the  white  owl,  meadow  lark  (which  I have  seen 
every  where  I have  traveled),  mocking-bird,  kingbird,  swal- 
low, quail,  etc. 


132 


BUFFALO. 


“We  passed  the  trail  of  a large  party  of  Comanches  on 
the  6th,  going  south  with  their  families  and  lodges.  The 
Comanches,  during  the  past  year,  have  not  been  friendly 
with  the  Delawares  and  Shawnees,  and  although  there  have 
as  yet  been  no  organized  demonstrations  of  hostilities,  they 
have  secretly  killed  several  men,  and,  in  consequence,  our 
hunters  entertain  a feeling  of  revenge  toward  them.  They, 
however,  go.  out  alone  every  day  on  their  hunts,  six  or 
eight  miles  from  the  command,  and  seem  to  have  no  fears 
of  the  Comanches.  They  are  liable  to  encounter  them  at 
any  moment,  and,  being  poorly  mounted,  they  could  not  es- 
cape by  running ; their  only  alternative  in  such  an  event 
would  be  to  act  on  the  defensive.  I have  cautioned  them 
several  times,  but  they  say  they  are  not  afraid  to  meet  any 
of  the  prairie  Indians  provided  the  odds  are  not  greater 
than  six  to  one.  They  are  well  armed  with  good  rifles,  the 
use  of  which  they  understand  perfectly,  and  are  very  de- 
termined and  brave  fellows.  ' 

“ June  7.  Taking  two  of  the  Indians  this  morning,  I went 
out  for  the  purpose  of  making  an  examination  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  and  ascertaining  whether  good  water 
could  be  found  upon  our  route  for  our  next  encampment. 
We  had  gone  about  three  miles  in  a westerly  direction, 
when  we  struck  a fresh  buffalo  track  leading  north ; think- 
ing we  might  overtake  him,  we  followed  up  the  trace  until 
we  came  near  the  summit  of  an  eminence  upon  the  prairie, 
when  I sent  one  of  the  Indians  (John  Bull)  to  the  top  of 
the  hill,  which  was  about  one  fourth  of  a mile  distant,  to 
look  for  the  animal.  He  had  no  sooner  arrived  at  the 
point  indicated  than  we  saw  him  make  a signal  for  us  to 
join  him  . by  riding  round  rapidly  several  times  in  a circle, 
and  immediately  put  off  at  full  speed  over  the  hills.  We 
set  out  at  the  same  instant  upon  a smart  gallop,  and  on 
reaching  the  crest  of  the  hill  discovered  the  terrified  animal 


A PANTHER. 


133 


fleeing  at  a most  furious  pace,  with  John  Bull  in  hot  pursuit 
about  500  yards  behind  him.  As  we  followed  on  down  the 
prairie  we  had  a fine  view  of  the  chase.  The  Delaware  was 
mounted  upon  one  of  our  most  fractious  and  spirited  horses, 
that  had  never  seen  a buffalo  before,  and,  on  coming  near 
the  animal,  he  seemed  perfectly  frantic  with  fear,  making 
several  desperate  surges  to  the  right  and  left,  any  one  of 
which  must  have  inevitably  unseated  his  rider  had  he  not 
been  a most  expert  and  skillful  horseman.  During  the  time 
the  horse  was  plunging  and  making  such  efforts  to  escape, 
John,  while  he  controlled  him  with  masterly  adroitness, 
seized  an  opportunity  and  gave  the  buffalo  the  contents  of 
his  rifle,  breaking  one  of  his  fore  legs,  and  somewhat  re< 
tarding  his  speed ; he  still  kept  on,  however,  making  good 
running,  and  it  required  all  the  strength  of  our  horses  to 
bring  us  alongside  of  him.  Before  we  came  up,  our  most 
excellent  hunter,  John  Bull,  had  recharged  his  rifle  and 
placed  another  ball  directly  back  of  the  shoulder;  but  so 
tenacious  of  life  is  this  animal,  that  it  was  not  until  the  oth- 
er Delaware  and  myself  gave  him  four  additional  shots  that 
we  brought  him  to  the  ground. 

“On  our  return  we  observed  a pack  of  wolves,  in  com- 
pany with  a multitude  of  ravens,  making  merry  over  the 
barcass  of  the  buffalo  we  had  killed  in  the  morning. 

“ In  the  evening,  shortly  after  we  had  turned  out  our  an- 
imals to  graze,  and  had  made  every  thing  snug  and  com- 
fortable about  us,  ourselves  reclining  very  quietly  after  the 
fatigue  of  the  day’s  march,  one  of  the  hunters  came  into 
camp  and  informed  us  that  a panther  had  crossed  the  creek 
but  a short  distance  above,  and  was  coming  toward  us. 
This  piece  of  intelligence,  as  may  be  supposed,  created  no 
little  excitement  in  our  quiet  circle.  Every  body  was  up 
in  an  instant,  seizing  muskets,  rifles,  or  any  other  weapon 
that  came  to  hand,  and,  followed  by  all  the  dogs  in  camp,  a 

M 


134 


TIMID  DOGS. 


very  general  rush  was  made  toward  the  spot  indicated  fry 
the  Delaware.  On  reaching  the  place,  we  found  where  the 
animal,  in  stepping  from  the  creek,  had  left  water  upon  his 
track,  which  was  not  yet  dry,  showing  that  he  had  passed 
within  a short  time.  We  pointed  out  the  track  to  several 
of  the  dogs,  and  endeavored,  by  every  means  which  our  in- 
genuity could  suggest,  to  inspire  them  with  some  small  de- 
gree of  that  enthusiasm  which  had  animated  us.  We  coax- 
ed, cheered,  and  scolded,  put  their  noses  into  the  track, 
clapped  our  hands,  pointed  in  the  direction  of  the  trail,  hiss- 
ed, and  made  use  of  divers  other  canine  arguments  to  con- 
vince them  that  there  was  something  of  importance  on  hand, 
but  it  was  all  to  no  purpose.  They  did  not  seem  to  enter 
into  the  spirit  of  the  chase,  or  to  regard  the  occasion  as  one 
in  which  there  was  much  glory  to  be  derived  from  follow- 
ing in  the  footsteps  of  their  illustrious  predecessor.  On  the 
contrary,  the  zeal  which  they  manifested  in  starting  out 
from  camp  suddenly  abated  as  soon  as  their  olfactories  came 
in  contact,  with  the  track,  and  it  was  with  very  great  diffi- 
culty that  we  could  prevent  them  from  running  away.  At 
this  moment,  however,  our  old  bear-dog  came  up,  and  no 
sooner  had  he  caught  a sniff  of  the  atmosphere  than,  sud- 
denly coming  to  a stop  and  raising  his  head  into  the  air,  he 
sent  forth  one  prolonged  note,  and  started  off  in  full  cry 
upon  the  trail.  He  led  off  boldly  into  the  timber,  followed 
by  the  other  dogs,  which  had  now  recovered  confidence, 
with  the  men  at  their  heels,  cheering  them  on  and  shouting 
most  vociferously,  each  one  anxious  to  get  the  first  glimpse 
of  the  panther.  They  soon  roused  him  from  his  lair,  and, 
after  making  a few  circuits  around  the  grove,  he  took  to  a 
tree. 

“ I was  so  fortunate  as  to  reach  the  spot  a little  in  ad- 
vance of  the  party,  and  gave  him  a shot  which  brought  him 
to  the  ground.  The 'dogs  then  closed  in  with  him,  and  oth- 


STRANGE  SUPPLY  OF  WATER. 


135 


ers  of  the  party,  coming  up  directly  afterward,  fired  sev- 
eral shots  which  took  effect,  and  he  was  dead.  He  proved 
to  be  a fine  specimen  of  the  North  American  cougar,  meas- 
uring eight  and  a half  feet  from  the  nose  to  the  end  of  his 
tail. 

“We  encamped  one  evening  upon  a small  creek  which, 
with  the  exception  of  some  pools  of  standing  water,  was 
dry.  In  the  course  of  an  hour,  however,  some  of  the  men, 
who  had  been  up  the  creek,  came  running  back  into  camp 
greatly  excited,  and  crying,  “Here  comes  a plenty  of  water, 
boys !”  And,  sure  enough,  in  a few  minutes,  to  our  aston- 
ishment and  delight  (as  we  were  doubtful  about  having  a 
supply),  a perfect  torrent  came  rushing  down  the  dry  bed 
of  the  rivulet,  filling  it  to  the  tops  of  its  banks,  and  contin- 
ued running,  turbid,  and  covered  with  drift  and  froth,  as 
long  as  we  remained.  Our  Delawares  looked  upon  this  as 
a special  favor  from  the  Great  Spirit,  and  a favorable  au- 
gury to  the  success  of  our  enterprise.  To  us  it  was  a most 
mysterious  and  inexplicable  phenomenon,  as  there  had  been 
no  rain  for  three  days,  with  a cloudless  sky.  If  the  stream 
had  been  of  much  magnitude,  we  should  have  supposed 
that  the  water  came  from  a distance,  where  there  had  been 
rains,  but  it  did  not  rise  over  three  or  four  miles  from  where 
we  encamped.  I have  always  since  regretted  that  I did  not 
follow  up  the  stream  to  its  source,  as  I might  have  discov- 
ered from  whence  the  water  came. 

“ Upon  the  Plains  south  of  the  Canadian,  where  I have 
traveled  during  the  summer  months,  a strong  breeze  has 
usually  sprung  up  about  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and 
lasted  until  after  night,  reaching  its  maximum  intensity 
about  three  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  This  breeze  comes 
from  the  south,  and  generally  rises  and  subsides  with  as 
much  regularity  as  the  sea-breeze  upon  the  Atlantic  coast, 
which  fact  has  given  rise  to  the  opinion  that  it  emanates 


136 


PLAN  OF  CAMP. 


from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  However  this  may  be,  these  cool 
and  bracing  winds  temper  the  atmosphere,  heated  to  inten- 
sity by  the  almost  vertical  rays  of  the  sun,  rendering  it 
comfortable  and  pleasant  even  in  midsummer. 

“ June  11.  We  crossed  Sweetwater  Creek  at  three  o’clock 
this  morning,  and  traveled  eight  miles  in  a westerly  course, 
when  we  crossed  two  fresh  Indian  trails,  which,  from  the 
circumstance  of  there  being  no  trace  of  lodge-poles,  our 
guide  pronounced  to  have  been  made  by  war-parties ; and 
he  says  that  he  has,  during  the  day,  seen  four  Indians  upon 
a hill  in  the  distance,  but  they  turned  on  seeing  him,  and 
galloped  off.  The  fact  of  their  not  being  disposed  to  com- 
municate with  us  looks  suspicious,  and  they  may  have  hos- 
tile intentions  toward  us ; but,  with  our  customary  precau- 
tions, I think  we  shall  be  ready  to  receive  them,  either  as 
friends  or  enemies. 

“ Our  usual  method  of  encamping  is,  where  we  can  find 
the  curve  of  a creek  (which  has  generally  been  the  case),  to 
place  ourselves  in  the  concavity,  with  the  wagons  and  tents 
extending  around  in  a semicircle,  uniting  at  each  extremity 
of  the  curve  of  the  creek,  so  as  to  inclose  a sufficient  space 
for  the  command ; thus  we  are  protected  on  one  side  by  the 
creek,  and  upon  the  other  by  the  line  of  wagons  and  tents. 
Immediately  after  reaching  our  camping-ground,  all  the  an- 
imals are  turned  out  to  graze,  under  charge  of  the  team- 
sters, who  are  armed,  and  remain  constantly  with  them, 
keeping  them  as  near  the  command  as  the  supply  of  grass 
will  permit.  We  generally  commence  the  day’s  march 
about  three  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  are  ready  to  en- 
camp by  eleven  o’clock ; this  gives  ample  time  for  the  ani- 
mals to  graze  before  night,  when  they  are  driven  into  camp. 
The  horses  and  mules  are  picketed  within  the  inclosure, 
while  the  oxen  are  tied  up  to  the  wagons;  sentinels  are 
then  posted  upon  each  side  of  the  encampment,  and  kept 


PROPER  DAY’S  MARCH. 


137 


constantly  walking  in  such  directions  that  they  may  have 
the  animals  continually  in  view. 

“Many  have  supposed  that  cattle  in  a journey  upon  the 
Plains  would  perform  better  and  keep  in  better  condition 
by  allowing  them  to  graze  in  the  morning,  before  starting 
upon  the  day’s  march,  which  would  involve  the  necessity 
of  traveling  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  These  persons  are 
of  opinion  that  animals  will  only  feed  at  particular  hours 
of  the  day,  and  that  the  remainder  of  the  day  must  be  allot- 
ted them  for  rest  and  sleep,  and  that,  unless  these  rules  are 
adhered  to,  they  will  not  thrive.  This  opinion,  however,  is, 
I think,  erroneous ; and  I also  think  that  cattle  will  adapt 
themselves  to  any  circumstances,  so  far  as  regards  their 
working  hours  and  their  hours  of  rest.  If  they  have  been 
accustomed  to  labor  at  particular  hours  of  the  day,  and  the' 
order  of  things  is  at  once  reversed,  the  working  hours  being- 
changed  into  hours  of  rest,  they  may  not  do  as  well  for  a 
few  days,  but  they  soon  become  accustomed  to  the  change, 
and  eat  and  rest  as  well  as  before. 

“ By  starting  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  during  the 
summer  months,  the  day’s  march  is  over  before  it  becomes 
very  warm;  whereas  (as  I have  observed),  if  the  animals 
are  allowed  to  graze  before  starting,  the  march  must  con- 
tinue-during  the  middle  of  the  day,  when  the  animals  (par- 
ticularly oxen)  will  suffer  much  from  the  heat  of  the  sun,  • 
and,  so  far  as  my  experience  goes,  will  not  keep  in  as  good 
condition  as  when  the  other  plan  is  pursued.  I have  adopt- 
ed this  course,  and  our  oxen  have  continued  to  improve 
upon  it.  Another  and  important  advantage  to  be  derived 
from  this  is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  animals,  being  tied 
up  at  night,  are  not  liable  to  be  lost  or  stolen.” 

We  continued  on  up  the  North  Fork  of  Red  River  until 
the  16th  of  June,  when  we  reached  the  sources  of  this  stream. 
The  following  is  an  extract  from  mv  journal  of  that  day : 

M*  ~ 


138 


SOURCE  OF  NORTH  FORK. 


“ June  16.  Striking  our  tents  at  three  o’clock  this  morn- 
ing, we  followed  up  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  which  runs 
in  a westerly  course  for  eight  miles,  when  it  suddenly  turns 
to  the  southwest,  and  here  the  elevated  bluffs  which  we 
have  had  in  view  for  several  days  past  approach  the  river 
upon  each  side,  until  there  is  but  a narrow  gorge  or  canon 
for  the  passage  of  the  stream.  These  bluffs  are  composed 
of  calcareous  sandstone  and  clay,  rising  precipitously  from 
the  banks  of  the  stream  to  the  height  of  three  hundred  feet, 
when  they  suddenly  terminate  in  the  almost  perfectly  level 
plain  of  the  ‘Llano  estacado.’  Here  the  river  branches 
out  into  numerous  ramifications,  all  running  into  the  deep 
gorges  of  the  plain.  Taking  the  largest,  we  continued  up 
it,  riding  directly  in  the  bed  of  the  stream  for  about  five 
miles,  when  we  reached  the  source  of  this  branch  of  the 
river,  and,  by  ascending  upon  the  table  lands  above,  we 
could  see  the  heads  of  the  other  branches  which  we  had 
passed  a few  miles  below. 

“ The  latitude  at  this  place,  as  determined  by  several  ob- 
servations of  Polaris,  is  35°  35'  3",  and  the  longitude  101° 
55'.  These  results  make  our  position  only  about  twenty- 
five  miles  from  the  Canadian  River ; and  as  I am  anxious 
to  determine  how  our  observations  conform  to  those  we 
made  in  ascending  that  stream  in  1849, 1 propose  takipg  ten 
men,  and  leaving  the  main  body  of  the  command  to  guard 
our  oxen  and  stores,  to  make  a trip  in  a due  north  course 
to  the  Canadian.  This  will  serve  to  show  the  connection 
between  that  stream  and  a certain  known  point  upon  the 
head  of  the  north  branch  of  Red  River,  and  is,  in  my  opin- 
ion, a geographical  item  which  it  is  important  to  establish 
and  confirm  by  actual  observation,  particularly  as  the  Cana- 
dian has  by  several  travelers  been  mistaken  for  Red  River. 

“ At  our  encampment  of  this  evening  is  the  last  running 
water  we  have  found  in  ascending  this  branch  of  Red  River. 


BOTTLE  DEPOSITED. 


139 


We  are  near  the  junction  of  the  last  branch  of  any  magni- 
tude that  enters  the  river  from  the  north,  and  about  three 
miles  from  the  point  where  it  debouches  from  the  plains, 
in  a grove  of  large  cottonwood-trees  upon  the  south  bank 
of  the  river.  Under  the  roots  of  one  of  the  largest  of  these 
trees,  yhich  stands  near  the  river,  and  below  all  others  in 
the  grove,  we  buried  a bottle  containing  the  following  mem- 
orandum : 

“ ‘On  the  16th  day  of  June,  1852,  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion, composed  of  Captain  R.  B.  Marcy , Captain  Gr.  B.  McClel- 
lan, Lieutenant  J.  Updegraff,  and  Dr.  Gr.  C.  Shumard,  with 
fifty -five  men  of  Company  “D,”  5th  Infantry,  encamped 
here,  having  this  day  traced  the  north  branch  of  Red  River 
to  its  sources.  Accompanying  the  expedition  were  Captain 
J.  H.  Strain,  of  Fort  Washita,  and  Mr.  J.  R.  Suydam,  of  New 
York  city.1 

“On  the  17th,  accompanied  by  eleven  of  our  party,  I 
started  in  a northerly  direction  to  go  in  search  of  the  Cana- 
dian River,  leaving  the  main  party  encamped  on  Red  River. 

“Our  route  led  us  immediately  out  upon  the  elevated 
plateau  of  the  Staked  Plain,  where  the  eye  rested  upon  no 
object  of  relief  within  the  scope  of  vision,  and  our  Dela- 
ware guide,  John  Bushman,  whom  I had  informed  that  we 
expected  to  reach  the  Canadian  that  day,  expressed  great 
incredulity  as  to  the  reliance  to  be  placed  upon  our  astro- 
nomical conclusions.  He  asked  me,  ‘ How  you  know  may- 
be so  Canadian  twenty -five  miles?’  I informed  him  that 
this  was  determined  by  observations  upon  the  moon  and 
stars.  The  expression  of  his  countenance  indicated  that 
he  regarded  us  either  as  £ big  medicine  men’  or  fools,  and 
when  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  plain  before  mention- 
ed, he  turned  to  me  and  said,  £ Maybe  no  Canadian  there’ 
(pointing  to  the  east).  It  certainly  did  not  look  much  like 
it;  but,  after  traveling  about  fifteen  miles,  our  eyes  were 


140 


McClellan’s  creek. 


suddenly  gladdened  by  the  appearance  of  a valley  before 
us,  which  I at  once  recognized  as  that  of  the  Canadian,  and, 
after  traveling  about  ten  miles  farther,  we  found  ourselves 
upon  that  stream. 

“ This  was  a matter  of  much  gratification  to  us,  as  it  con- 
firmed the  accuracy  of  our  calculations  regarding  the  geo- 
graphical position  of  the  sources  of  the  North  Fork  of  Red 
River.  John  Bushman  was  evidently  greatly  astonished  at 
the  precision  of  the  estimates,  and  was  now  prepared  to  be- 
lieve in  our  powers  to  almost  any  extent.  He  came  to  me 
that  evening  and  said,  ‘I  yvant  you,  captain,  to  look  at  stars 
agin,  and  tell  me  where  Comanches  gone;’  and  I could  not 
persuade  him  that  we  were  incapable  of  determining  the 
exact  location  of  every  Indian  camp  in  the  country  by  sim- 
ply looking  at  the  stars  with  a telescope. 

“ The  point  where  we  struck  the  Canadian  is  at  the  mouth 
of  a small  stream  called  Sandy  Creek,  upon  the  map  of  the 
road  I made  from  Fort  Smith  to  Santa  Fd  in  1849.  This, 
being  near  longitude  101°  45',  and  latitude  85°  58',  makes 
our  calculations  for  this  and  the  head  of  Red  River  ap- 
proximate very  closely. 

“On  the  20th  of  June  we  turned  south  toward  the  Salt 
Fork,  and,  after  going  twelve  miles,  skirting  the  border  of 
the  Staked  Plain  from  whence  issued  the  numerous  tributa- 
ries of  the  North  Fork,  we  reached  the  valley  of  a very 
beautiful  stream,  twenty  feet  wide  and  six  inches  deep, 
running  rapidly  over  a gravelly  bed,  through  a valley 
about  a mile  wide,  of  sandy  soil,  with  large  cottonwood- 
trees  along  the  banks.  I have  called  this  ‘McClellan’s 
Creek,’  in  compliment  to  my  friend  Captain  McClellan, 
who  I believe  to  be  the  first  white  man  that  ever  set  eyes 
upon  it. 

“We  were  happy,  on  arriving  here,  to  find  the  water  per- 
fectly pure  and  palatable ; and  we  regard  ourselves  as  most 


4 


THE  MIRAGE. 


MIRAGE. 


143 


singularly  fortunate  in  having  favorable  weather.  The 
rains  of  the  last  two  days  have  made  the  atmosphere  de- 
lightfully cool,  and  afford  us  water  in  many  places  where 
we  had  no  reason  to  expect  it  at  this  season  of  the  year. 

“ During  ths  middle  of  the  day,  when  the  earth  and  the 
adjacent  strata  of  the  air  had  become  heated  by  the  almost 
vertical  raj^s  of  the  sun,  we  observed,  as  usual,  upon  the. 
‘Llano  estacado,’  an  incessant  tremulous  motion  in  the 
lower  strata  of  the  atmosphere,  accompanied  by  a most  sin- 
gular and  illusive  mirage.  This  phenomenon,  which  so 
bitterly  deluded  the  French  army  in  Egypt,  and  has  been 
observed  in  many  other  places,  is  here  seen  in  perfection. 

“ The  very  extraordinary  refraction  of  the  atmosphere 
upon  these  elevated  plateaus  causes  objects  in  the  distance 
to  be  distorted  into  the  most  wild  and  fantastic  forms,  and 
often  exaggerated  to  many  times  their  true  size.  A raven, 
for  instance,  would  present  the  appearance  of  a man  walk- 
ing erect,  and  an  antelope  often  be  mistaken  for  a horse  or 
buffalo.  In  passing  along  over  this  thirsty  and  extended 
plain  in  a warm  day,  the  eye  of  a stranger  is  suddenly  glad- 
dened by  the  appearance  of  a beautiful  lake,  with  green 
and  shady  groves  directly  upon  the  opposite  bank.  His 
heart  beats  with  joy  at  the  prospect  of  speedily  luxuriating 
in  the  cool  and  delicious  element  before  him,  and  he  urges 
his  horse  forward,  thinking  it  very  strange  that  he  does  not 
reach  the  oasis.  At  one  time  he  imagines  that  he  has  made 
a sensible  diminution  in  the  distance,  and  goes  on  with  re- 
newed vigor  and  cheerfulness;  then  again  he  fancies  that 
the  object  recedes  before  him,  and  he  becomes  discouraged 
and  disheartened ; and  thus  he  rides  for  miles  and  miles, 
and  still  he  finds  himself  no  nearer  the  goal  than  when  he 
first  saw  it;  when,  perhaps,  some  sudden  change  in  the 
atmosphere  would  dissipate  the  illusion,  and  disclose  to  him 
the  fact  that  he  had  been  following  a mirage. 


144 


INDIAN  BATTLE-GROUND. 


“ On  the  22d  we  struck  the  principal  branch  of  the  Salt 
Fork  near  where  it  debouches  from  the  Staked  Plain, 
and  directly  at  the  source  is  an  elevated  hill,  with  abrupt 
sides,  terminating  in  a level  summit,  somewhat  in  the  form 
of  a truncated  cone. 

“We  were  much  gratified  in  finding  the  water  at  the 
head  of  this  branch,  as  in  the  North  Fork,  sweet  and  whole- 
some. This  settles  the  question  that  these  branches  of  Red 
River  do  not  take  their  rise  in  salt  plains,  as  has  been  very 
generally  supposed.  On  the  contrary,  the  water  at  their 
sources,  in  the  eastern  borders  of  the  Staked  Plain,  is  as 
pure  as  can  be  desired ; and  this  character  continues  upon 
all  the  confluents  until  they  enter  the  gypsum  formation, 
when  they  become  impregnated  with  salts  that  impart  a 
new  character  to  the  water,  which  continues  to  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi. 

“ Upon  the  rocky  bluffs  bordering  the  river  we  found 
silicified  wood  in  great  quantities  strewed  about  over  a dis- 
tance of  two  miles.  The  petrifaction  was  most  perfect,  ex- 
hibiting all  the  fibres,  knots,  and  bark  as  plainly  as  in  the 
native  state,  and  was  quite  like  cottonwood. 

“ Near  the  place  where  we  pitched  our  tents  on  the  22d 
was  an  old  Indian  encampment,  where  John  Bushman  dis- 
covered that  a battle  had  been  fought  within  the  two  pre- 
ceding months.  The  evidences  of  this  were  apparent  from 
the  remains  of  a large  fire  upon  which  the  victorious  party 
had  burned  the  lodges  and  other  effects  of  the  vanquished. 
Pieces  of  the  lodge  poles,  and  a quantity  of  fused  glass 
beads,  with  small  pieces  of  iron  and  other  articles  pertain- 
ing to  their  domestic  economy,  which  had  partially  escaped 
the  conflagration,  were  found  scattered  about  the  camp. 

“ On  the  24th  we  left  the  Salt  Fork,  and,  striking  south 
over  very  rough  and  undulating  prairies,  we,  on  the  27th, 
came  in  sight  of  the  valley  of  the  Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no,  or 


PRAIRIE  DOG  TOWN. 


145 


the  principal  branch  of  Eed  Biver.  Directly  in  front  of 
us  we  could  see  the  high  table  lands  of  the  Llano  estacado 
towering  up  some  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  surround- 
ing country,  and  bordered  by  precipitous  escarpments,  cap- 
ped with  a stratum  of  snow-white  gypsum,  which  glistened 
in  the  sun’s  rays  like  burnished  silver. 


“Our  route  from  the  Salt  Fork  led  us  through  an  almost 
continuous  dog  town,  which  has  probably  suggested  the 


PRAIRIE  DOG  TOWN. 


name  the  Comanches  have  applied  to  the  main  branch  of 
the  Bed  Biver  of  Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no,  or  ‘ Prairie-Dog-Town 
Biver.’ 

“ The  river  where  we  struck  it  was  nine  hundred  yards 
wide,  flowing  over  a sandy  bed,  with  but  little  water  in  the 
channel,  and  the  valley  was  inclosed  on  each  side  by  rug- 
ged hills  and  deep  gorges. 

“ On  the  28th,  after  marching  eight  miles,  we  reached  the 

N 


A GROTTO. 


146 

base  of  the  elevated  cliffs  that  border  the  Llano  estacado, 
which  spreads  out  to  the  south  and  west  like  the  steppes 
of  Central  Asia  in  an<  apparently  illimitable  desert. 

“ 1 supposed,  from  the  appearance  of  the  country  in  the 
distance,  that  I should  be  able  to  find  a passage  for  our 
wagons  along  at  the  foot  of  these  cliffs ; but,  on  closer  ex- 
amination, we  found  the  ground  so  much  cut  up  by  abrupt 
ridges  and  deep  gullies  that  it  was  impracticable  to  take 
our  train  any  farther  up  this  branch  of  the  river.  Accord- 
ingly, I determined  to  leave  it  here,  and,  with  a small  es- 
cort of  ten  men,  to  push  on  and  endeavor  to  reach  the 
sources  of  the  river. 

“ Taking  provisions  for  six  days,  packed  on  mules,  we 
started  on  the  29th,  and  were  obliged  to  follow  directly  in 
the  bed  of  the  river,  as  the  banks  on  both  sides  were  so. 
rough  as  to  render  it  very  difficult  to  travel  over  them. 

“In  one  of  the  deep  ravines  which  we  encountered  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river  we  discovered  a grotto  inclosed 
with  gypsum  rOcks,  which  appeared  to  have  been  worn  out 
by  the  action  of  water,  forming  an  arched  passway.  The 
sides  were  perfectly  smooth,  and  composed  of  strata  of 
three  distinct  bright  colors,  green,  pink,  and  white,  ar- 
ranged in  such  order  as  to  give  it  an  appearance  of  singular 
beauty. 

“ We  found  a small  rill  of  water  issuing  from  this  cavern, 
and  on  tracing  it  up  discovered  a spring  of  very  cold  water 
bursting  out  from  the  solid  rock.  The  day  was  very  warm 
(the  thermometer  standing  at  twelve  o’clock  M.  at  104°  Fah- 
renheit in  the  shade),  and  the  reflection  of  the  sun’s  rays 
from  the  white  sand  in  the  bed  of  the  river  made  it  exceed- 
ingly oppressive.  We  were  much  exhausted  and  very 
thirsty,  and  we  all  took  huge  draughts  of  this  water;  but, 
as  soon  as  the  cold  sensation  passed  away,  we  discovered 
that  the  water  was  highly  charged  with  salts,  and  very  bit- 


SALTS  IN  WATER. 


147 


ter  and  unpalatable.  Indeed,  tbe  water  in  the  river  and  in 
all  the  tributaries  we  passed  was  of  the  same  character. 
W e bivouacked  that  night  at  a small  pool  of  bitter  water, 
and  our  intense  thirst  caused  us  to  drink  it  freely,  but,  in- 
stead of  allaying,  it  only  served  to  increase  it. 

“At  daylight  on  the  30th  we  were  in  the  saddle  again, 
and  set  out  at  a brisk  pace,  hoping  to  find  some  good  water 
during  the  day. 

“The  lofty  escarpments  which  bounded  the  valley  on 
each  side  rose  precipitously  from  near  the  water’s  edge  to 
the  enormous  altitude  of  from  five  to  eight  hundred  feet, 
and  in  many  places  there,  was  not  room  for  a horse  to  pass 
between  the  foot  of  the  acclivity  and  the  water. 

“ It  was  altogether  impossible  to  travel  upon  either  bank 
of  the  river,  and  the  only  place  where  a horse  could  pass 
was  directly  along  the  defile  of  the  river  bed.  We  found 
frequent  small  rivulets  flowing  into  the  river  through  the 
deep  glens  on  each  side,  but  the  water  in  them  all  was  im- 
pregnated with  the  nauseating  salts.  A very  good  imita- 
tion of  this  compound  may  be  made  by  dissolving  a tea- 
spoonful  of  Epsom  salts  in  a tumbler  of  sweet  water. 

“ Our  noon  halt  was  upon  the  river,  and  we  sent  our 
Delawares  out  in  all  directions  to  search  for  fresh  water,  but 
they  all  returned  unsuccessful.  At  this  time  we  had  be- 
come so  much  affected  by  the  frequent  and  unavoidable 
use  of  the  water  that  we  experienced  constant  burning 
pains  in  the  stomach,  attended  with  loss  of  appetite,  and 
the  most  vehement  and  feverish  thirst.  We  endeavored  to 
disguise  the  taste  of  the  water  by  making  coffee  with  it, 
but  it  retained  the  same  disagreeable  properties  in  that  form 
that  it  had  in  the  natural  state. 

“At  four  in  the  evening  we  again  pushed  forward  up 
the  river,  praying  most  devoutly  that  we  might  reach  the 
end  of  the  gypsum  formation  before  night,  and  that  the  riv- 


148 


SUFFERING  FROM  THIRST. 


er,  which  was  still  of  very  considerable  magnitude,  would 
branch  out  and  soon  come  to  a termination. 

“ Four  miles  from  our  halting-place  we  passed  a large  af- 
fluent coming  in  from  the  north,  above  which  there  was  a 
very  perceptible  diminution  in  the  main  stream  ; and  in  go- 
ing a few  miles  farther,  we  passed  several  more,  causing  a 
still  greater  contraction  in  its  dimensions.  All  these  afflu- 
ents were  similar  in  character  to  the  parent  stream,  bor- 
dered with  lofty  and  precipitous  bluffs,  with  gypsum  veins 
running  through  them  similar  to  those  upon  the  main  river. 

“ Toward  evening  we  arrived  at  a point  where  the  river 
divided  into  two  forks  of  about  equal  dimensions.  We 
followed  the  left,  which  appeared  somewhat  the  largest,  and 
here  found  the  bluffs  receding  several  hundred  yards  from 
the  banks  upon  each  side,  leaving  a very  beautiful  and 
quiet  little  nook,  wholly  unlike  the  stern  grandeur  of  the 
rugged  defile  through  which  we  had  been  passing.  This 
glen  was  covered  with  a rich  carpet  of  verdure,  and  em- 
bowered with  the  foliage  of  the  graceful  china  and  aspen, 
and  its  rural  and  witching  loveliness  gladdened  our  hearts 
and  refreshed  our  eyes,  long  fatigued  with  gazing  upon 
frowning  crags  and  deep,  shady  ravines. 

“After  traveling  twenty-five  miles  we  encamped  upon 
the  main  river,  which  had  now  become  reduced  to  one 
hundred  feet  in  width,  and  flowed  rapidly  over  a sandy 
bed. 

“Although  we  were  suffering  most  acutely  from  the  ef- 
fects of  the  nauseating  and  repulsive  water  in  the  river,  yet 
we  were  still  under  the  painful  necessity  of  using  it.  Sev- 
eral of  the  men  had  been  taken  with  violent  cramps  in  the 
stomach  and  vomiting,  yet  they  did  not  murmur ; on  the 
contrary,  thqy  were  cheerful,  and  indulged  in  frequent  jokes 
at  the  expense  of  those  who  were  sick.  The  principal  top- 
ic of  conversation  with  them  seemed  to  be  a discussion  of 


PUKE  WATER  AGAIN. 


149  . 


the  relative  merits  of  the  different  kinds  of  fancy  iced 
drinks  which  could  be  procured  in  the  cities,  and  the  prices 
that  could  be  obtained  for  some  of  them  if  they  were  with- 
in reach  of  our  party.  Indeed,  it  seems  to  me  that  we  were 
not  entirely  exempt  from  the  agitation  of  a similar  subject; 
and,  from  the  drift  of  the  argument,  I have  no  doubt  that  a 
moderate  quantity  of  Croton  water,  cooled  with  Boston  ice, 
would  have  met  with  a very  ready  market  in  our  little 
mess.  Indeed,  if  I mistake  not,  one  of  the  gentlemen  of- 
fered as  high  as  two  thousand  dollars  for  a single  bucket  of 
the  pure  element ; but,  unfortunately  for  him,  this  was  one 
of  those  rare  occasions  in  which  money  was  not  sufficiently 
potent  to  obtain  the  object  desired. 

“We  spread  our  blankets,  and  endeavored  to  obliterate 
the  sensation  of  thirst  in  sleep;  but,  so  far  as  I was  con- 
cerned, my  slumbers  were  continually  disturbed  by  dreams, 
in  which  I fancied  myself  swallowing  huge  draughts  of  ice- 
water. 

“ We  saddled  up  at  a very  early  hour  on  the  1st  of  July, 
and  pushed  forward  up  the  river  for  several  miles,  when 
we  passed  a large  affluent  putting  in  from  the  north.  A 
few  miles  farther  brought  us  to  another;  and,  in  the  course 
of  the  forenoon,  several  tributaries  had  been  passed,  which 
reduced  the  main  stream  into  a narrow  channel  of  only 
twenty  feet  wide ; and  here  its  bed,  which  had  every  where 
below  been  sandy,  suddenly  changed  to  rock;  the  water, 
which  before  had  been  turbid,  flowing  clear  and  rapidly  over 
it,  and,  to  our  great  delight,  it  was  entirely  free  from  salts. 

“After  undergoing  the  most  intense  sufferings  from 
drinking  the  disgusting  fluid  below  here,  we  indulged  freely 
in  the  pure  and  delicious  element  as  we  ascended  along  the 
narrow  dell  through  which  the  stream  found  its  way. 

“ After  following  up  for  two  miles  the  tortuous  mean- 
derings  of  the  gorge,  we  reached  a point  where  it  became 

N* 


150 


SOURCE  OF  RED  RIVER. 


so  much  obstructed  with  huge  piles  of  rock  that  we  were 
obliged  to  leave  our  animals,  and  clamber  up  the  remainder 
of  the  distance  on  foot. 

“The  gigantic  escarpments  of  sandstone,  rising  to  the 
giddy  height  of  800  feet  upon  each  side,  gradually  closed 
in  as  we  ascended,  until  they  were  only  a few  yards  apart, 
and  finally  united  overhead,  leaving  a long,  narrow  corri- 
dor beneath,  at  the  base  of  which  the  head  spring  of  the 
principal  or  main  branch  of  Red  River  takes  its  rise.  This 
spring  bursts  out  from  its  cavernous  reservoir,  and,  leaping 
down  over  the  huge  masses  of  rock  below,  here  commences 
its  long  journey  to  unite  with  other  tributaries  in  making 
the  Mississippi  the  noblest  river  in  the  universe.  Directly 
at  the  spring  we  found  three  small  cottonwood-trees,  one 
of  which  was  blazed,  and  the  fact-  of  our  having  visited  the 
place,  with  the  date,  marked  upon  it. 

“ On  beholding  this  minute  rivulet  as  it  wends  its  tortu- 
ous course  down  the  steep  descent  of  the  canon,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  realize  that  it  forms  the  germ  of  one  of  the  largest 
. and  most  important  rivers  in  America,  floating  steamers 
upon  its  bosom  for  nearly  2000  miles,  and  depositing  an 
alluvion  along  its  borders  which  renders  its  valley  unsur- 
passed for  fertility. 

“We  took  many  copious  draughts  of  the  cool  and  re- 
freshing water  in  the  spring,  and  thereby  considered  our- 
selves, with  the  pleasure  we  received  from  the  beautiful 
and  majestic  scenery  around  us,  amply  remunerated  for  all 
our  fatigue  and  privations.  The  magnificence  of  the  views 
that  presented  themselves  to  our  eyes  as  we  approached 
the  head  of  the  river  exceeded  any  thing  I had  ever  be- 
held. It  is  impossible  for  me  to  describe  the  sensations 
that  came  over  me,  and  the  exquisite  pleasure  I experi- 
enced as  I gazed  upon  these  grand  and  novel  pictures. 

“ These  stupendous  escarpments  of  solid  rock,  rising  pre- 


SCENERY  AT  THE  SOURCE. 


151 


cipitously  from  the  bed  of  the  river  to  such  a height  as,  for 
a great  portion  of  the  day,  to  exclude  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
were  worn  away,  by  the  lapse  of  time  and  the  action  of  the 
water  and  the  weather,  into  the  most  fantastic  forms,  that 
required  but  little  effort  of  the  imagination  to  convert  into 
works  of  art,  and  all  united  in  forming  one  of  the  grandest 
and  most  picturesque  scenes  that  can  be  imagined.  We 
all,  with  one  accprd,  stopped  and  gazed  with  wonder  and 
admiration  upon  a panorama  which  was  now  for  the  first 
time  exhibited  to  the  eyes  of  civilized  man.  Occasionally 
might  be  seen  a good  representation  of  the  towering  walls 
of  a castle  of  the  feudal  ages,  with  its  giddy  battlements 
pierced  with  loopholes,  and  its  projecting  watch-towers 
standing  out  in  bold  relief  upon  the  azure  ground  of  the 
pure  and  transparent  sky  above.  In  other  places,  our  fan- 
cy would  metamorphose  the  escarpments  into  a bastion 
frojit,  as  perfectly  modeled  and  constructed  as  if  it  had  been 
a production  of  the  genius  of  Vauban,  with  redoubts  and 
salient  angles  all  arranged  in  due  order.  Then,  again,  our 
fancy  pictured  a colossal  specimen  of  sculpture,  represent- 
ing the  human  figure,  with  all  the  features  of  the  face  dis- 
tinctly defined.  This,  standing  upon  its  lofty  pedestal, 
overlooks  the  valley,  as  if  it  had  been  designed  and  exe- 
cuted by  the  Almighty  Artist  as -the  presiding  genius  of 
these  dismal  solitudes. 

“ All  here  was  crude  Nature,  as  it  sprung  into  existence 
at  the  fiat  of  the  Almighty  Architect  of  the  universe,  still 
retaining  its  primeval  type,  its  unreclaimed  sublimity  and 
wildness,  and  it  forcibly  inspired  me  with  that  veneration 
and  awe  which  are  so  justly  due  to  the  high  antiquity  of 
Nature’s  handiworks,  and  which  seem  to  increase  as  we 
consider  the  solemn  and  important  lesson  that  is  taught  us 
in  reflecting  upon  their  permanence  when  contrasted  with 
our  own  fleeting  and  momentary  existence. 


152 


RETURN  TO  CAMP. 


“We  clambered  up  to  the  summit  of  the  escarpment, 
over  the  head  of  the  spring,  and  here  found  ourselves  upon 
the  level  plain  of  the  Llano  estacado. 

“The  approximate  geographical  position  of  this  point,  as 
determined  by  courses  and  distances  from  the  place  where 
we  left  the  train,  is  in  latitude  34°  42'  north,  and  longitude 
103°  7'  11"  west ; and  its  elevation  above  the  sea,  by  care- 
ful barometric  observations,  is  2450  feet. 

“ The  moment  we  passed  the  gypsum  formation  (about 
three  miles  from  the  head  of  the  river)  the  water  became 
pure  and  sweet. 

“We  were  undoubtedly  the  first  white  men  who  had 
ever  visited  the  locality,  and,  from  the  great  difficulty  of  its 
access,  I doubt  if  any  others  will  go  there  very  soon. 

“ Near  the  head  of  the  river  we  saw  numerous  fresh  bear 
tracks,  and  several  of  the  animals  themselves,  two  of  which 
we  killed,  but  they  generally  made  their  escape  into  ^;he 
rocky  defiles,  where  we  were  unable  to  follow  them. 

“ One  of  our  Delawares  (John  Bull)  had  quite  an  excit- 
ing brush  with  a large  bear,  but  did  not  succeed  in  getting  - 
alongside  of  him,  as  he  was  mounted  upon  the  same  frac- 
tious horse  which  he  rode  in  the  buffalo  chase,  and  he  be- 
came perfectly  furious  and  unmanageable  the  moment  he 
saw  the  bear.  This  is  often  the  case,  and  there  is  nothing 
that  frightens  a horse  so  much  as  one  of  these  animals. 

“We  returned  to  our  camp  where  we  left  the  train,  at 
the  foot  of  the  defile  or  canon  through  which  the  river 
passed,  on  the  3d  of  July,  the  distance  to  the  head  of  the 
river  being  sixtyffive  miles.  ” 

I could  not  determine  in  my  own  mind  whether  this  re- 
markable defile  had  been  formed,  after  a long  lapse  of  time, 
by  the  continued  action  of  the  current,  or  had  been  pro- 
duced by  some  great  convulsion  of  Nature,  or  whether  both 
causes  had  contributed  to  its  formation,  some  paroxysmal 


CANONS  OF  RED  RIVER. 


153 


convulsion  having  first  given  birth  to  an  extensive  fissure, 
and  the  ceaseless  erosion  of  the  water  having  afterward  re- 
duced it  to  its  present  condition  ; but  the  following  remarks 
of  the  late  Dr.  Hitchcock  upon  the  subject  are  quite  con- 
clusive. 

“ Your  account  of  the  remarkable  canons  of  Red  River, 
where  it  comes  out  from  the  borders  of  the  { Llano  estaca- 
do,’  as  given  in  your  lecture  before  the  American  Geo- 
graphical and  Statistical  Society,  has  been  read  by  me  with 
great  interest.  For  several  years  past  I have  been  engaged 
in  studying  analogous  phenomena  to  this,  which  seems  to 
me  a neglected  part  of  geology.  The  canons  of  our  south- 
western regions  are  among  the  most  remarkable  examples 
of  erosions  on  the  globe,  and  the  one  on  Red  River  seems 
to  me  to  be  on  a more  gigantic  scale  than  any  of  which  I 
have  found  a description.  You  seem  in  doubt  whether  this 
gorge  was  worn  away  by  the  river,  or  is  the  result  of  some 
paroxysmal  convulsion.  You  will  allow  me  to  say  that  I 
have  scarcely  any  doubt  that  the  stream  itself  has  done  the 
work.  The  fact  that  when  a tributary  stream  enters  the 
main  river  it  passes  through  a tributary  canon,  seems  to  me 
to  show  conclusively  that  these  gorges  were  produced  by 
erosion,  and  not  by  fractures ; for  how  strange  would  it  be 
if  fractures  should  take  those  ramifications  and  curvatures 
which  a river  and  its  tributaries  present.  And,  moreover, 

I find  cases  where  I can  prove,  from  other  considerations, 
that  streams  of  water  (existing  and  ancient  rivers)  have' 
eaten  out  gorges  quite  as  difficult  to  excavate  as  any  of  the 
canons  of  the  West;  so  that,  if  we  must  admit  that  rivers 
have  done  a work  equally  great  in  one  case,  all  presump- 
tion is  removed  against  their  doing  the  same  in  other  cases. 

I have  a great  number  of  facts,  which  I hope  to  be  able,  if 
life  be  spared,  to  present  to  the  public  on  this  subject,  and  I 
am  very  glad  to  add  the  canons  of  Red  River  to  the  num- 
ber.” 


154 


THE  KE-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 


CHAPTER  YI. 

Turning  homeward.— Peculiar  Basin.— Another  Panther  killed.— Witchita 
Mountains.— Mount  Scott.— Buffalo  Chase.— Witchetaw  Villages.— Fine 
Soil.— Reported  Massacre.— Mexican  Prisoners.— Accused  of  Horse-steal- 
ing.—Arrival  at  Fort  Arbuckle.— Anxiety  of  Friends.— Review  of  Char- 
acteristics of  the  Country  passed  over. — Ranges  of  the  Indians. 

On  the  4th  of  July  we  turned  our  faces  homeward,  and 
traveled  along  down  the  “ Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no.”  Our  first 
camp  was  made  at  a very  peculiar  pond  of  water.  It  is  al- 
most round,  about  250  feet  in  diameter,  with  the  water  30 
feet  deep,  and  perfectly  transparent  and  sweet.  The  sur- 
face of  the  water  is  some  20  feet  below  the  top  of  the  bank, 
the  sides  of  which  are  nearly  perpendicular ; and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  for  several  miles,  rises  to  the  height  of 
from  100  to  200  feet.  As  this  pond  seems  to  be  supplied 
by  springs,  and  has  no  visible  outlet,  it  occurred  to  me  that 
there  might  be  a subterraneous  communication  which  car- 
ried off  the  surplus  water  and  the  earth  from  the  depression 
of  the  reservoir. 

On  approaching  this  pond  previous  to  our  encamping, 
one  of  the  officers  and  myself,  who  were  in  advance  of  the 
command,  espied  a huge  panther  very  leisurely  walking 
away  in  an  opposite  direction ; and  as,  in  hunters’  parlance, 
we  “ had  the  wind  of  him,”  it  enabled  me  to  ride  sufficient- 
ly near  to  give  him  a shot  before  he  discovered  us.  He 
made  a tremendous  leap  into  the  air,  and,  running  a short 
distance,  fell  dead,  shot  directly  through  the  heart. 

We  continued  down  the  river,  over  an  arid,  sandy  coun- 
try, almost  entirely  destitute  of  timber  or  good  water,  until 


' 


\ 

> 


. 


THE  WITCHETAWS. 


157 


the  15th,  when  we  again  entered  the  Witchita  Mountains, 
and  skirted  along  the  southeastern  base  for  two  days. 

The  soil  here  is- of  excellent  quality,  and  sustains  a 
heavy  vegetation.  In  addition  to  the  advantages  of  rich 
soil,  good  timber,  and  water,  which  every  where  abound  near 
these  mountains,  may  be  added  the  great  salubrity  of  the 
climate.  The  atmosphere  in  these  elevated  regions  is  cool, 
elastic,  and  bracing,  and  the  breezes  which  sweep  across  the 
Plains  temper  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  render  the  atmos- 
phere, even  in  midsummer,  cool  and  comfortable. 

The  particular  district  embracing  the  Witchita  Mount- 
ains has  for  many  years  been  occupied  and  (with  much  jus- 
tice, it  seems  to  me)  claimed  by  the  Witch etaw  Indians,  who 
have  a tradition  that  their  original  progenitor  issued  from 
the  rocks  of  these  mountains,  and  that  the  Great  Spirit  gave 
him  and  his  posterity  the  country  in  the  vicinity  for  a her- 
itage, and  here  they  continued  to  live  and  plant  corn  for  a 
long  time. 


Notwithstanding  this  claim  of  the  Witchetaws,  which  the 
fact  of  occupancy  and  possession  has  guaranteed  to  them, 
yet  the  whole  of  this  beautiful  country,  as  far  as  the  100th 
degree  of  west  longitude,  is  included  in  the  grant  made  by 
the  United  States  to  the  Choctaws,  who  thereby  possess  the 
greater  part  of  the  lands  upon  Upper  Red  River  that  are 
really  valuable. 

The  Witchetaws  are  an  insignificant  tribe  in  point  of  num- 
bers, not  having  more  than  about  500  souls  in*the  nation, 
and  are  not,  of  course,  prepared  to  substantiate  or  enforce 
their  title  to  this  country ; and,  indeed,  I very  much  doubt 
if  they  have  any  claims  upon  the  consideration  or  generosi- 
ty of  our  government,  being  the  most  notorious  and  invet- 
erate horse-thieves  upon  the  borders,  as  the  early  frontier 
settlers  of  Texas  can  testify ; and  they  are  only  held  in 
restraint  now  by  fear  of  the  troops  near  them.  They  have 


158 


MOUNT  SCOTT. 


always  been  extremely  jealous  of  the  motives  of  the  white 
people  who  have  wished  to  penetrate  to  the  interior  of  their 
country,  and  have,  upon  several  occasions,  driven  off  par- 
ties who  attempted  to  examine  the  country  about  the 
Witchita  Mountains. 

The  Choctaws  and  Chickasaws  do  not  occupy  more  than 
one  fourth  of  their  reservation,  and  the  remaining  three 
fourths  is  of  sufficient  dimensions  to  form  a new  Territory, 
which  is  far  better  adapted  to  agriculture  than  any  other 
of  our  Territories. 

On  the  18th  we  passed  through  the  mountains  and  en- 
camped upon  the  bank  of  a stream  on  the  north  side.  Our 
position  here  was  directly  at  the  base  of  the  most  elevated 
peak  in  the  Witchita  chain,  which,  in  honor  of  our  distin- 
guished lieutenant  general,  I named  “ Mount  Scott.”  Tow- 
ering as  it  does  above  all  surrounding  eminences,  this  peak 
presents  a very  imposing  feature  in  the  landscape,  and  a 
conspicuous  landmark  for  many  miles  around.  The  altitude 
above  the  base,  as  determined  with  the  sextant,  is  1185  feet. 

To  the  north  of  Mount  Scott  lies  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful valleys  I ever  saw.  It  is  about  three  miles  wide,  in- 
closed between  two  ranges  of  mountains,  and  through  it 
winds  a lovely  stream  of  pure  water  about  fifty  yards  wide, 
the  lively  current  of  which  rushes  wildly  down  over  an  al- 
most continuous  succession  of  rapids  and  rocky  defiles.  It 
is  fringed  with  gigantic  pecan,  over-cup,  white  ash,  elm,  and 
hackberry  trees.  About  the  base  of  the  mountains  we  found 
the  post-oak,  and  toward  their  summits  the  red  cedar  grows. 

While  encamped  at  this  place,  I took  my  rifle,  and, 
mounting  a small  Indian  pony  belonging  to  my  servant, 
started  up  the  creek  for  the  purpose  of  hunting  deer.  I had 
only  gone  about  two  miles,  when  I suddenly  discovered  a 
buffalo  bull  cropping  the  grass  under  some  oaks  near  the 
creek.  No  sooner,  however,  did  I see  him,  than,  raising  his 


INDIAN  VILLAGES. 


159 


head,  and  giving  one  look  in  the  direction  from  which  I 
was  approaching,  he  set  off  at  a spanking  gallop  over  the 
prairie.  I applied  the  rowels  most  vigorously  to  the  di- 
minutive beast  I bestrode,  and  endeavored,  by  making  a 
cut-off  over  the  hills,  to  get  within  rifle  range,  but  the  ut- 
most efforts  of  the  pony  were  unequal  to  the  task,  and  all 
I could  do  was  to  give  him  a running  salute  as  he  passed 
at  200  yards  distance. 

On  the  19th,  as  we  were  passing  along  a small  tributa- 
ry of  the  Witchita  called  Rush  Creek,  we  suddenly  came  in 
sight  of  several  squaws,  who  were  collecting  the  tall  grass 
which  grows  along  the  banks  of  the  creek.  They  no  soon- 
er espied  us  than  they  jumped  upon  their  horses,  and  were 
about  making  off.  Some  of  them,  however,  stopped  at  the 
command  of  our  interpreter,  while  one  or  two  galloped  away 
in  the  direction  of  their  village  to  give  notice  of  our  ap- 
proach. They  proved  to  be  Witchetaws  andWacos,  and,  in- 
forming us  that  their  villages  were  about  four  miles  in  ad- 
vance, invited  us  to  pay  them  a visit.  We  passed  through 
the  villages,  which  lay  directly  in  our  route,  and  encamped 
about  half  a mile  below  them,  in  the  valley  of  Rush  Creek. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  we  were  accosted  by  a large 
crowd  of  men,  who  were  anxious  to  learn  where  we  had 
been,  and  whether  we  had  met  with  any  Comanches ; and 
as  it  was  very  seldom  that  any  whites  had  ever  visited  them 
before,  they  seemed  very  glad  to  see  us,  probably  anticipa- 
ting presents. 

There  were  two  villages  here,  occupied  by  the  two  tribes 
just  mentioned.  They  were  situated  in  the  rich  and  fer- 
tile valley  of  Rush  Creek,  where  they  cultivated  corn,  peas, 
beans,  pumpkins,  and  melons.  They  had  no  agricultural 
implements  except  a small  hoe,  with  which  they  prepared 
the  ground  for  the  reception  of  the  seed,  and  performed 
all  other  work  in  the  cultivation  of  the  crop.  The  prolific 


160 


LODGES. 


nature  of  the  soil  gave  them  bountiful  returns,  and  were  it 
not  for  their  improvident  natures,  they  might,  with  little 
labor,  have  sufficient  for  the  whole  year.  But,  like  other 
Indians,  they  only  cared  for  the  present,  and,  from  the  time 
the  corn  was  fit  for  roasting,  they  were  continually  eating 
and  feasting  until  it  was  consumed. 

The  village  of  the  Witchetaws  had  42  lodges,  each  con- 
taining two  families  of  about  ten  persons.  These  lodges 
are  made  by  erecting  a frame- work  of  poles,  placed  in  a cir- 
cle in  the  ground  with  the  tops  united  in  an  oval  form,  and 
bound  together  with  numerous  withes  or  wattles,  the  whole 
nicely  thatched  with  grass  ; and,  when  completed,  it  makes 
a very  commodious  and  comfortable  domicil.  The  interior 
arrangements  are  such  that  every  person  has  a bunk,  raised 
from  the  ground  and  covered  with  buffalo  hides,  forming  a 
couch  which  is  far  from  being  uncomfortable.  When  seat- 
ed around  their  fires  in  the  centre  of  the  lodges,  they  have 
an  air  of  domestic  happiness  about  them  which  I did  not 
expect  to  find. 

The  lodges  are  about  25  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
25  feet  high,  and  in  the  distance  have  very  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  a group  of  haystacks.  With  the  exception 
of  a few  families  that  live  upon  the  Canadian,  the  whole 
Witchetaw  nation  is  concentrated  at  this  place ; their  num- 
bers do  not  exceed  500  souls.  They  have,  during  the  early 
settlement  of  Texas,  given  more  trouble  to  the  people  upon 
the  northern  borders  of  that  state  than  any  other  Indians. 
They  have  no  regard  for  truth,  will  steal,  and  are  wholly 
unworthy  of  confidence,  and  their  vicious  propensities  are 
now  only  kept  in  check  from  fear. 

Living,  as  they  do,  between  the  white  settlements  and 
the  prairie  tribes,  they  are  at  the  mercy  of  both ; they  seem 
to  be  conscious  of  this  fact,  and  express  a desire  to  be  on 
terms  of  friendship  with  all  their  neighbors.  At  my  ur- 


REPORTED  MASSACRED. 


161 


gent  request  they  presented  us  with  several  bushels  of  green 
corn,  which  was  very  acceptable,  as  we  had  seen  no  veg- 
etables for  several  months. 

The  Wacos  live  about  a mile  from  the  Witchetaws,  in 
a village  constructed  like  the  other.  There  are  20  lodges 
in  this  village,  and  about  200  souls.  Their  habits  and  cus- 
toms are  similar  to  the  Witchetaws,  with  whom  they  fre- 
quently intermarry,  and  are  upon  the  best  and  most  friendly 
terms. 

Both  of  these  tribes  subsist  for  a great  portion  of  the 
year  upon  buffalo  and  deer,  and  wear  the  buffalo  robes  like 
the  Comanches.  They  also  use  the  bow  and  arrow  for  kill- 
ing game ; some  of  them,  however,  are  provided  with  rifles, 
and  are  good  shots.  They  have  a large  stock  of  horses 
and  mules,  many  of  which  are  the  small  Spanish  breed 
with  the  Mexican  brand  upon  them,  and  have  probably 
been  obtained  from  the  prairie  tribes ; while  others  are 
large,  well -formed  animals,  and  have  undoubtedly  been 
stolen  from  the  border  whites. 

We  learned  from  these  Indians,  much  to  our  surprise, 
that  a report  had  been  made  to  the  commanding  officer  of 
Fort  Arbuckle,  by  a Keechi  Indian,  to  the  effect  that  our 
whole  party  had  been  overpowered  and  massacred  by  the 
Comanches  near  the  head  of  Bed  Biver. 

The  account  given  by  the  Indian  was  so  circumstantial 
and  minute  in  every  particular,  showing  a perfect  knowl- 
edge of  all  our  movements,  with  our  numbers  and  equip- 
ments, that  the  information  was  evidently  communicated 
by  persons  who  had  been  near  us,  and  observed  our  move- 
ments. This  accounted  for  the  fact  of  the  Indians  avoid- 
ing us  upon  all  occasions. 

They  probably  regarded  us  as  out  on  a hostile  expedi- 
tion, and  may  have  supposed  that  the  report  of  our  mas- 
sacre would  deter  other  troops  from  following  us. 

0* 


162 


WHITE  PRISONERS. 


The  old  chief  To-se-quash  informed  us  that  Pah-hah- 
eu-ka’s  band  of  “ Middle  Comanches,”  in  consequence  of 
some  of  their  people  having  been  killed  near  one  of  our 
military  posts  in  Texas,  were  greatly  exasperated,  and 
would  fight  the  whites  whenever  they  met  them. 

The  following  morning  I sent  for  the  chiefs  of  the  two 
villages,  for  the  purpose  of  endeavoring  to  persuade  them 
to  surrender  to  us  two  Mexican  prisoners  in  their  posses- 
sion, one  a man  about  forty  years  of  age,  and  the  other  a 
boy  of  fifteen. 

The  man  had  been  with  the  Indians  since  he  was  a 
child,  and  said  he  did  not  wish  to  leave  them ; that  he  had 
become  as  great  a rascal  as  any  of  them  (to  which  I gave 
full  credence),  and  should  not  feel  at  home  any  where  else. 

It  appeared,  however,  that  the  boy  had  only  been  with 
them  a few  months.  He  stated  that  he  was  kidnapped  by 
the  Kioways  from  his  home  near  Chihuahua ; that,  in  con- 
sequence of  their  brutal  treatment,  he-  escaped,  and  made  his 
way  to  the  Witchita  Mountains,  where  a Witchetaw  hunt- 
er found  him  in  nearly  a famished  state,  and  brought  him 
to  this  place.  He  said  he  had  been  kindly  treated  by  the 
Witchetaws,  but  was  anxious  to  leave  them  and  go  with  us. 
He  appeared  to  be  very  intelligent,  and  could  read  and 
write  in  his  own  language. 

In  a talk  with  the  chiefs,  I told  them  that  the  Ameri- 
can people  were  now  on  terms  of  friendship  with  the  Mex- 
icans, and  that  by  treaty  we  had  obligated  ourselves  to  re- 
turn to  them  all  prisoners  in  the  hands  of  Indians  in  our 
territory,  and  to  prevent  farther  depredations  being  com- 
mitted upon  them ; that  the  principal  chief  of  the  whites 
(the  President)  would  not  regard  any  tribe  of  Indians  as 
friends  who  acted  in  violation  of  this  treaty ; that  he  con- 
fidently hoped  and  expected  all  the  tribes  who  were  friend- 
ly to  our  people  would  comply  strictly  with  the  require- 


STEALING  HORSES. 


163 


ments  of  the  treaty,  and  give  up  all  prisoners  in  their  pos- 
session. I then  requested  them  to  release  to  me  the  boy, 
and  told  them  if  they  did  this  I should  make  them  some 
presents  of  articles  that  had  been  sent  out  by  the  President 
for  such  of  his  Red  children  as  were  his  friends.  They  hes- 
itated for  a long  time,  stating  that  the  boy  belonged  to  a 
Waco,  and  he  loved  him  so  much  that  it  was  doubtful  if  he 
could  be  persuaded  to  part  with  him.  Whereupon  I told 
them  that  if  they  released  the  boy  quietly,  I should  reward 
them;  but  otherwise  I had  determined  to  take  him  from 
them  by  force,  and  if  compelled  to  resort  to  this  course, 
should  give  them  nothing  in  return.  This  appeared  to 
have  the  desired  effect,  and  they  said  if  I would  make  the 
family  into  which  he  had  been  adopted  a few  presents,  in 
addition  to  what  I had  promised  them,  they  would  release 
him.  I accordingly  distributed  the  presents,  and  took  pos- 
session of  the  boy.  Upon  turning  him  over  to  us  they  di- 
vested him  of  the  few  rags  of  covering  that  hung  about  his 
person,  and  reluctantly  gave  him  to  us;  and  he  made  his 
exit  from  the  Witchetaw  nation  in  the  same  costume  in 
which  he  entered  the  world.  We  soon  had  him  comforta- 
bly clothed,  and  he  was  much  delighted  with  the  change. 

While  we  were  out  on  the  Plains  we  had  found  two 
Indian  horses,  and  had  them  in  our  possession  on  our  ar- 
rival at  the  Witchetaw  villages. 

One  of  the  officers  of  our  party  had,  previous  to  our  de- 
parture from  Fort  Belknap,  lost  a very  fine  horse,  and  he 
had  discovered  subsequently  that  some  of  To-se-quash’s 
band  had  stolen  it.  I mentioned  the  circumstance  to  the 
chief,  and  required  him  either  to  return  the  horse  or  give 
another  in  place  of  it.  At  first  he  denied  that  his  people 
had  taken  the  horse ; but,  upon  our  showing  conclusively 
that  such  was  the  case,  he  acknowledged  the  act,  but  said 
that  we  had  stolen  two  of  their  horses,  and  when  those  were 


164 


OBITUARY  NOTICES. 


returned  he  would  restore  ours.  It  appeared  that  some  of 
their  hunters  had  lost  two  horses  which  we  had  found,  and, 
although  we  did  not  look  upon  the  two  cases  as  being  ex- 
actly parallel,  yet  we  returned  one  of  their  horses,  and  gave 
the  other  to  the  lieutenant. 

About  daylight  on  the  28th  the  party  marched  into  Fort 
Arbuckle,  where  we  found  our  friends  much  astonished 
and  delighted  at  our  sudden  reappearance  among  them, 
when*  they  had  supposed  us  all  massacred  by  the  Co- 
manches. 

The  report  had  been  generally  believed  by  the  officers, 
and  the  commanding  officer  at  Fort  Arbuckle  Jiad  made  an 
official  report  of  the  circumstances  to  the  War  Department. 
We  immediately  dispatched  letters  to  our  friends,  inform- 
ing them  of  our  safety,  and,  after  making  the  necessary  ar- 
rangements for  returning  the  escort  to  Fort  Belknap,  I set 
out  for  Washington. 

On  reaching  home,  I learned  that  my  father’s  family  had 
been,  so  fully  convinced  of  the  truth  of  the  absurd  rumors 
in  regard  to  us  that  they  had  all  put  on  mourning  at- 
tire, and  a funeral  sermon  had  been  preached  upon  the  oc- 
casion. Besides  this,  I had  the  novel  satisfaction  of  reading 
in  the  papers  several  quite  complimentary  obituary  articles 
upon  the  death  of  Captain  Marcy. 

In  a comprehensive  review  of  the  physical  characteris- 
tics of  the  particular  section  of  Bed  River  which  is  com- 
prised within  the  limits  of  the  district  assigned  to  the  atten- 
tion of  the  expedition,  it  will  not  perhaps  be  considered 
irrelevant  to  make  a few  general  observations  upon  the 
more  prominent  features  of  the  country  bordering  upon 
this  stream,  from  its  confluence  with  the  Mississippi  to  its 
sources.  It  will  be  observed,  by  reference  to  a map  of  the 
country  embracing  the  basin  of  this  river,  that  in  ascending 
from  the  mouth,  its  general  direction  as  high  as  Fulton, 


TOPOGRAPHY. 


165 


Arkansas,  is  nearly  north  and  south ; that  here  it  suddenly 
changes  its  course,  and  maintains  a direction  almost  due 
east  and  west  to  its  sources.  One  of  the  first  peculiarities 
which  strikes  the  mind  on  a survey  of  the  topography  of 
this  extensive  district  of  country  is  the  general  uniformity 
of  its  surface:  with  the  exception  of  the  Witchita  range,  no 
extensive  chains  of  lofty  mountains  diversify  the  perspec- 
tive, and  but  few  elevated  hills  rise  up  to  relieve  the  mo- 
notony of  the  prospect.  Another  distinguishing  feature  of 
this  river  is,  that  the  country  on  its  upper  waters  differs  in 
every  respect  from  that  in  the  vicinity  of  its  mouth.  The 
valley  is  found  to  comprise  two  great  geographical  sections, 
each  having  physical  characteristics  entirely  distinct  from 
the  other.  The  main  branch  of  the  river,  from  the  point 
where  it  debouches  out  of  the  Staked  Plain,  flows  through 
an  arid  prairie  country  almost  entirely  destitute  of  trees, 
over  a broad  bed  of  light  and  shifting  sands,  for  a distance, 
measured  upon  its  sinuosities,  of  some  500  miles.  This 
country,  for  the  most  part,  is  subject  to  periodical  seasons 
of  drought,  which  preclude  the  possibility  of  cultivation  ex- 
cept by  means  of  artificial  irrigation.  It  then  enters  a coun- 
try covered  with  forest-trees  of  gigantic  dimensions,  grow- 
ing upon  an  alluvial  soil  of  the  most  pre-eminent  fertility, 
which  sustains  a very  diversified  sylva,  and  affords  to  the 
planter  the  most  bountiful  returns  of  all  the  products  suit- 
ed to  this  latitude.  On  entering  this  section  of  the  river 
we  find  that  the  borders  contract,  and  the  water,  for  a great 
portion  of  the  year,  washes  both  banks,  at  a high  stage,  car- 
rying away  the  loose  alluvium  from  one  side  and  deposit- 
ing it  upon  the  other  in  such  a manner  as  to  produce  con- 
stant changes  in  the  channel,  and  to  render  the  navigation 
difficult.  This  character  prevails  through  the  remainder 
of  its  course  to  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi,  and  throughout 
this  section  it  is  subject  to  heavy  inundations,  which  often 


166 


CHARACTER  OF  RIVER  COURSE. 


flood  the  bottoms  to  such  a degree  as  to  produce  very  seri- 
ous consequences  to  the  planters,  destroying  their  crops, 
and,  upon  subsiding,  occasionally  leaving  a deposit  of  white 
sand  over  the  surface,  rendering  it  thenceforth  entirely  bar- 
ren and  worthless. 

Below  the  great  raft  a chain  of  lakes  continues  to  skirt 
the  river  for  more  than  100  miles:  these  are  supposed  to 
have  been  formed  in  the  ancient  channels  and  low  grounds 
of  former  streams,  whose  discharge  had  gradually  been  ob- 
structed by  an  embankment  formed  of  the  sedimentary 
matter  brought  down  the  river  from  above. 

These  lakes  are  from  five  to  fifty  miles  in  length,  from 
a quarter  to  three  miles  wide,  and  are  filled  and  emptied 
alternately  as  the  floods  in  Red  River  rise  and  fall;  they 
serve  as  reservoirs,  which,  in  the  inundations  of  the  banks 
of  the  river,  receive  a great  quantity  of  water,  and,  as  it  sub- 
sides, empty  their  contents  gradually,  thereby  tending  to 
impede  the  rapid  discharge  of  the  floods  upon  the  Delta. 
Like  all  rivers  of  great  length  which  drain  a large  extent 
of  country,  Red  River  is  subjected  to  periodical  seasons  of 
high  and  low  water.  The  floods  occur  at  very  uniform 
epochs,  but  the  quantity  and  elevation  of  the  water,  as  well 
as  its  continuance  at  a high  stage,  vary  constantly. 

During  the  winter  the  water  often  remains  high  for  sev- 
eral months,  but  the  heavy  rise  which  has  almost  invariably 
been  observed  during  the  month  of  June  often  subsides  in 
a very  few  days. 

The  estimated  distance,  by  the  meanderings  of  the  stream, 
from  the  mouth  to  Preston,  Texas,  is  1600  miles,  and  from 
this  point  to  the  sources  of  the  main  branch  500  more, 
making  the  entire  length  of  the  river  2100  miles.- 

On  emerging  from  the  timbered  lands  upon  Red  River 
into  the  Great  Plains,  we  pass  through  a strip  of  forest  called 
the  Cross  Timbers.  This  extensive  belt  of  woodland,  which 


VEGETATION. 


167 


forms  one  of  the  most  prominent  and  anomalous  features 
upon  the  face  of  the  country,  is  from  five  to  thirty  miles 
wide,  and  extends  from  the  Arkansas  River  in  a southwest- 
erly direction  to  the  Brazos,  some  400  miles. 

At  six  different  points  where  'I  have  passed  through  it, 
I have  found  it  characterized  by  the  same  peculiarities; 
the  trees,  consisting  principally  of  post-oak  and  black-jack, 
standing  at  such  intervals  that  wagons  can  without  diffi- 
culty pass  between  them  in  any  direction.  The  soil  is  thin, 
sandy,  and  poorly  watered.  This  forms  a boundary-line, 
dividing  the  country  suited  to  agriculture  from  the  great 
prairies,  which  for  the  most  part  are  arid  and  destitute  of 
timber.  It  seems  to  have  been  designed  as  a natural  bar- 
rier between  civilized  man  and  the  savage,  as  upon  the  east 
side  there  are  numerous  spring-brooks  flowing  over  a high- 
ly prolific  soil,  with  a superabundance  of  the  best  of  timber, 
and  an  exuberant  vegetation,  teeming  with  the  delightful 
perfume  of  flowers  of  the  most  brilliant  hues;  here  and 
there  interspersed  with  verdant  glades  and  small  prairies, 
affording  inexhaustible  grazing,  and  the  most  beautiful  nat- 
ural meadows  that  can  be  imagined ; while  on  the  other 
side  commence  those  barren  and  desolate  wastes,  where  but 
few  small  streams  greet  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  and  these 
are  soon  swallowed  up  by  the  thirsty  sands  over  which 
they  flow.  Here  but  little  woodland  is  found,  except  on 
the  immediate  borders  of  the  water-courses. 

From  the  point  where  Red  River  leaves  the  timbered 
lands,  the  entire  face  of  the  country,  as  if  by  the  wand  of  a 
magician,  suddenly  changes  its  character.  The  bluffs  now 
approach  nearer  the  river,  and  the  alluvial  bottoms,  which 
below  here  have  been  exceedingly  rich  and  productive,  con- 
tract, and  do  not  support  that  dense  and  rank  vegetation 
which  characterizes  the  lower  portion  of  the  valley.  The 
undergrowth  of  cane-brakes  and  vines  disappears,  and  is  no 


168 


FAVORITE  INDIAN  RESORT. 


more  seen  throughout  the  entire  extent  of  the  valley.  The 
lands  adjacent  gradually  rise,  and  exhibit  broad  and  eleva- 
ted swells  of  surface,  with  spacious  valleys  intervening,  and 
the  soil  continues  to  become  more  and  more  sterile  as  we 
ascend,  until  we  reach  the  101st  degree  of  latitude.  From 
this  point,  with  but  few  exceptions,  there  is  no  more  arable 
land. 

The  Comanches  and  Kiowas  resort  in  great  numbers  to 
the  waters  of  the  North  Fork  of  Bed  River.  Vestiges  of 
their  camps  were  every  where  observed  along  the  whole 
course  of  the  valley ; and  the  numerous  stumps  of  trees 
which  had  been  cut  down  by  them  at  different  periods  in- 
dicated that  this  had  been  a favorite  resort  for  them  during 
many  years. 

In  several  places  we  found  camps  that  had  only  been 
abandoned  a few  days,  and  some  where  the  fires  were  still 
burning.  From  the  great  extent  of  surface  over  which  the 
grass  was  cropped  at  some  of  these  places,  and  from  the 
multitude  of  tracks,  it  was  evident  that  these  Indians  were 
supplied  with  an  immense  number  of  horses ; and  they  had 
been,  without  doubt,  attracted  here  by  the  superior  quality 
of  the  grass,  and  the  abundance  of  the  sweet  cottonwood, 
upon  the  bark  of  which  they  feed  their  horses  in  the  winter 
season. 

Should  the  government  authorities  ever  have  occasion 
to  communicate  with  these  Indians,  many  of  them  can  be 
found  here  during  the  autumn  and  winter  months.  In  the 
summer  season  they  travel  north  in  pursuit  of  the  buffalo, 
generally  ranging  between  the  North  Fork  of  the  Canadian 
and  the  Arkansas  River. 

The  elevated  table  lands  in  which  Red  River,  Brazos, 
and  Colorado  take  their  rise,  extend  from  the  Canadian 
River  in  a southerly  course  to  near  the  Rio  Grande,  some 
four  hundred  miles,  between -the  32d  and  37th  parallels  of 


THE  STAKED  PLAIN. 


169 


latitude.  In  places  it  is  nearly  two  hundred  miles  wide, 
and  is  embraced  within  the  101st  and  104th  meridians  of 
longitude.  Its  elevation  above  the  sea  is  two  thousand  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  at  the  head  of  Red  River.  It  is  very 
level,  smooth,  and  firm,  and  spreads  out  in  every  direction 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  without  a tree,  shrub,  or  any 
other  hbrbage  to  intercept  the  vision.  The  traveler,  in 
passing  over  it,  sees  nothing  but  one  vast,  dreary,  and  mo- 
notonous waste  of  barren  solitude.  It  is  an  ocean  of  desert 
prairie,  where  the  voice  of  man  is  seldom  heard,  and  where 
no  living  being  permanently  resides.  The  almost  total  ab- 
sence of  water  causes  all  animals  to  shun  it ; even  the  In- 
dians do  not  venture  to  cross  it  except  at  two  or  three 
points,  where  they  find  a few  small  ponds  of  water.  I was 
told  in  New  Mexico  that,  many  years  since,  the  Mexicans 
marked  out  a route  with  stakes  across  this  plain,  where 
they  found  water ; and  hence  the  name  by  which  it  is 
known  throughout  Mexico,  of  “ El  Llano  estacado,”  or 
the  “ Staked  Plain.” 


P 


170 


INDIAN  RESERVATIONS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

INDIAN  RESERVATIONS. 

Arrival  at  Fort  Belknap. — Troubles  of  the  Small  Tribes  of  Texas. — Jose 
Maria. — Council. — Major  Neighbors. — Wolf  Dance. — Comanche  Visit  to 
the  Tonkawas. — Admiration  for  the  Major’s  Wardrobe. — Enlists  in  a 
War  Expedition. — Little  Witchita  River. — Big  Witchita  River. — Perilous 
Position  of  Major  Neighbors.  — Head  of  Big  Witchita.  — Bad  Water. — 
Reach  Brazos  River. — Head  of  the  Brazos. — Abundance  of  Game. — Ke- 
tumsee. — Clear  Fork  of  the  Brazos. — Council. — Location  of  the  Reserva- 
tions.— Summary. — Double  Mountain  Fork. — Mesquit  Tree.  — Mesquit 
Gum. — Civilizing  Comanches. 

In  1853,  the  Legislature  of  Texas  passed  an  act  authoriz- 
ing the  general  government  to  have  selected  and  surveyed, 
from  any  vacant  lands  within  the  limits  of  the  state,  reser- 
vations amounting  to  twelve  leagues,  for  the  exclusive  use 
of  the  Indians  inhabiting  that  Territory. 

I was,  in  1854,  selected  by  the  War  Department  to  go  out 
into  the  unsettled  parts  of  the  state,  and,  in  conjunction  with 
Major  Neighbors,  special  agent  for  those  Indians,  to  locate 
and  survey  these  reservations. 

I had  already  explored  a great  portion  of  Northern  and 
Western  Texas,  and  was  perfectly  familiar  with  the  charac: 
ter  of  the  country  upon  Red  River,  Trinity,  some  sections 
of  the  Brazos,  and  Colorado ; but  up  to  that  time  there  was 
no  record  of  any  white  man  having  explored  the  Brazos 
or  the  Big  Witchita  Rivers  to  their  sources.  As  these 
streams  were  included  within  the  limits  of  Texas,  and  as  I 
deemed  it  desirable  to  locate  the  Indians  as  far  as  possible 
away  from  the  white  settlements,  I determined  to  explore 


INDIANS  IN  TEXAS. 


171 


the  streams  alluded  to.  Accordingly,  after  procuring  a suit- 
able escort  and  outfit,  I proceeded  to  Fort  Belknap,  on  the 
Brazos  River,  where  I was  joined  by  Major  Neighbors,  with 
several  Delawares  for  guides,  interpreters,  and  hunters. 

The  Indian  tribes  in  Texas  at  that  time  were  the  South- 
ern Comanchtes,  Witchetaw*,  Wacos,  Towackanies,  Ionies, 
Anahdakas,  Caddos,  Tonkawas,  and  Keechis. 

These  Indians,  with  the  exception  of  the  Comanches, 
constituted  minute  remnants  of  what  were  once  formidable 
tribes,  but  now  the  aggregate  of  their  slender  numbers  would 
hardly  reach  2500  souls. 

The  borderers  of  Texas  have  often  made  war  upon  them 
without  the  slightest  provocation,  and  have,  time  and  time 
again,  robbed  them  of  their  fields,  and  forced  them  to  aban- 
don their  agricultural  improvements,  and  remove  farther 
and  farther  away  as  the  white  settlers  encroached  upon 
them.  They  have  been  robbed,  murdered,  and  starved, 
until  they  have  been  reduced  to  mere  skeletons  of  nomi- 
nal tribes,  which,  when  we  went  among  them,  were  so  much 
disheartened  and  discouraged  that  they  were  perfectly  will- 
ing to  submit  to  any  change  that  held  out  to  them  the  least 
guarantee  of  security. 

These  tribes  are  disposed  to  live  in  peace  and  harmony 
with  the  whites,  and  all  they  ask  is  to  be  allowed  to  cultivate 
their  little  patches  of  ground  without  farther  molestation. 

They  all  possess  a greater  or  less  number  of  horses,  and 
many  of  their  young  men  follow  the  chase,  while  the  old 
men,  women,  and  children  stay  at  home,  and  raise  corn, 
beans,  peas,  watermelons,  squashes,  etc. 

They  have,  as  a general  rule,  kept  their  races  pure  and 
unadulterated  from  admixture  with  the  whites,  yet  it  is  said 
that  many  of  their  women  are  far  from  being  chaste. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Fort  Belknap,  Major  Neigh- 
bors and  myself  called  the  chiefs  of  the  small  tribes  togeth- 


172 


JOSE  MARIA. 


er,  and  held  a council  with  them  concerning  the  settlement 
upon  the  new  reservations. 

The  Ionies  and  Anahdakas  were  represented  by  their 
chief  Jose  Maria,  who  has  the  blood  of  both  tribes  in  his 
veins.  He  was  a fine  specimen  of  his  race,  about  sixty 
years  of  age,  with  an  erect,  elastic  carriage,  and  a dignified 
and  commanding  demeanor. 

A young  and  very  intelligent  chief,  named  Tiner,  who 
commands  that  portion  of  his  tribe  living  upon  the  Brazos 
Biver,  appeared  for  the  Caddos. 

The  Witchetaws  and  Wacos  were  represented  in  the  per- 
son of  an  old  chief,  called  Ock-a-quash,  a full-blooded 
Witchetaw,  who  contends  with  another  chief,  uOche-rash ” 
for  the  precedency  of  rank. 

A subordinate  chief  or  captain,  called  Utsiocks , was  the 
representative  of  the  Towackanies. 

Major  Neighbors  and  myself,  after  the  council  was  con- 
vened, informed  the  Indians  that  we  had  been  sent  out  by 
the  United  States  authorities  to  locate  reservations  for 
them,  and  that  the  government  expected,  as  soon  as  this 
was  done,  they  would  go  upon  the  lands,  and  there  make 
their  permanent  abodes. 

Jose  Maria  stated  that  he  and  his  people  were  perfectly 
well  aware  that  their  Great  Father  (the  President)  had 
abundant  power  to  send  them  wherever  he  chose ; but,  if  it 
was  convenient,  he  would  prefer  having  their  lands  assign- 
ed to  them  below  Fort  Belknap,  upon  the  Brazos.  That,  if 
this  favor  was  granted  him,  as  soon  as  the  lands  were  sur- 
veyed and  marked  out,  he  should  be  ready  to  take  posses- 
sion of  them  with  his  followers.  He  appeared  to  have  the 
welfare  of  his  tribe  at  heart,  and  wished  to  get  the  best  lo- 
cation of  lands  possible  for  them.  He  says  his  people 
have  a tradition  that  they  originally  emanated  from  the  hot 
springs  of  Arkansas ; that  from  them  they  moved  to  Bed 


A PERSECUTED  PEOPLE. 


173 


River,  in  the  vicinity  of  Natchitoches,  where  they  resided 
many  years,  but  were  driven  by  the  whites  from  that  sec- 
tion of  country  to  the  Brazos,  where  they  had  lived  ever 
since.  That  they  had  been  driven  from  their  homes  several 
times  by  the  whites  since  they  came  upon  the  Brazos,  and 
that  they  now  cherished  the  hope  that  their  troubles  were 
ended,  and  that  they  would  in  future  have  permanent 
homes  for  their  families.  He  added  that  he  would  prefer 
to  be  settled  as  near  the  fort  as  possible,  in  order  that  he 
might  receive  protection  against  the  incursions  of  the  prai- 
rie tribes.  That  heretofore  he  had  had  his  enemies,  the 
pale-faces,  on  one  side  of  him,  and  those  lawless  robbers, 
the  Comanches,  on  the  other ; but  that,  of  the  two  evils,  he 
rather  preferred  being  near  the  former,  as  they  generally 
allowed  him  to  eat  a portion  of  what  he  raised,  but  that 
the  Comanches  took  every  thing ; and  although  the  whites 
had  heretofore  been  equally  prone  to  make  war  upon  them, 
yet,  if  they  must  die,  they  should  prefer  to  make  their  en- 
trance into  the  spirit  land  with  full  bellies,  and  for  this  rea- 
son he  would,  if  it  was  agreeable  to  us,  take  his  chances  on 
the  Brazos,  near  the  fort. 

These  views  were  concurred  in  by  Tiner  and  Ock-a- 
quash.  The  chief  of  the  Towackanies  said  they  were  not 
authorized  to  enter  int?  any  definite  arrangements ior  their 
people,  but  would  go  home  and  lay  the  proposition  before 
them,  when  they  would  decide  whether  they  would  remain 
where  they  were  in  the  Choctaw  nation,  or  remove  into 
Texas. 

The  Tonkawas  were  not  represented  in  the  council,  and, 
indeed,  they  were  generally  regarded  as  renegades  and 
aliens  from  all  social  intercourse  with  the  other  tribes. 
They  were  more  like  the  Digger  Indians  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  than  any  others  I have  met  with,  never  attempt- 
ing to  cultivate  the  soil  or  build  houses.  They  lived  in 


174 


MAJOR  NEIGHBORS. 


temporary  bark  or  brush  tenements,  affording  but  little  pro- ' 
tection  from  the  weather,  and  derived  a miserable,  meagre 
subsistence  from  fish,  small  animals,  reptiles,  roots,  or  any 
tiling  else  that  afforded  the  least  nutriment.  They  were 
the  most  ragged,  filthy,  and  destitute  Indians  I have  seen  ; 
and  their  ideas  of  comfort  and  their  manner  of  living  are 
but  one  grade  above  those  of  the  brutes.  Indeed,  the  fol- 
lowing incident,  which  was  related  to  me  by  my  friend  and 
associate,  Major  Neighbors,  would  rather  favor  the  hypoth- 
esis that  in  their  own  judgment,  at  least,  there  may  be  some 
remote  consanguinity  between  them  and  a very  ignoble 
quadruped. 

It  appears  that,  during  the  existence  of  the  Republic  of 
Texas,  the  major  was  appointed  agent  for  the  Tonkawas, 
and  went  out  into  the  Plains  and  took  up  his  abode  with 
them.  After  about  a year  he  succeeded  in  gaining  their 
confidence,  and  ingratiated  himself  into  especial  good  stand- 
ing and  favor  with  the  principal  chief,  who  manifested 
every  disposition  to  oblige  him  whenever  an  opportunity 
offered.  v . 

These  Indians,  in  common  with  all  the  aborigines  of  this 
continent,  were  eminently  superstitious,  believing  in  the 
agency  of  invisible  spirits  in  controlling  the  every-day  af- 
fairs of  life,  and  in  the  efficacy  df  “ medicine-bags”  and 
charms  in  hewing  diseases,  etc.  They  also,  like  the  other 
tribes,  had  their  national  dances  for  different  important  oc- 
casions, and  among  these  ceremonies  was  one  which  seem- 
ed to  me  very  curious,  and  entirely  different  from  any  oth- 
er I had  heard  of.  It  was  called  the  “ Wolf  Dance,”  and 
was  intended  to  commemorate  the  history  of  their  origin 
and  creation.  Their  traditions  have  handed  down  to  them 
the  idea  that  the  original  progenitor  of  the  Tonkawas 
was  brought  into  this  world  through  the  agency  of  the 
wolves. 


ORIGIN  OF  TIIB  TONKAWAS. 


WOLF  DANCE. 


177 


The  dance  is  always  conducted  with,  the  utmost  solemni- 
ty and  secrecy,  and  with  all  the  pomp  and  ceremony  their 
limited  means  allows ; and  it  was  only  by  the  most  urgent 
entreaty,  and  the  exercise  of  all  his  influence  with  the  chief, 
that  he  was  permitted  to  become  a spectator  upon  the  im- 
portant occasion,  and  then  upon  the  express  condition  that 
it  should  be  kept  secret  from  the  other  Indians. 

Before  the  performance  commenced  he  was  clandestinely 
introduced  into  a large  dance-lodge,  where  he  was  secreted 
by  the  chief  in  such  a position  that  he  could  observe  what 
was  going  on  without  himself  being  seen. 

Soon  after  this,  about  fifty  warriors,  all  dressed  in  wolf 
skins  from  head  to  feet,  so  as  to  represent  the  animal  very 
perfectly,  made  their  entrance  upon  all-fours  in  single  file, 
and  passed  around  the  lodge,  howling,  growling,  and  mak- 
ing other  demonstrations  peculiar  to  that  carnivorous  quad- 
ruped. 

After  this  had  continued  for  some  time,  they  began  to 
put  down  their  noses  and  sniff  the  earth  in  every  direc- 
tion, until  at  length  one  of  them  suddenly  stopped,  uttered 
a shrill  cry,  and  commenced  scratching  the  ground  at  a 
particular  spot.  The  others  immediately  gathered  around, 
and  all  set  to  work  scratching  up  the  earth  with  their 
hands,  imitating  the  motions  of  the  wolf  in  so  doing;  and, 
in  a few  minutes,  greatly  to  the  astonishment  of  the  major, 
they  exhumed  from  the  spot  a genuine  live  Tonkawa,  who 
had  previously  been  interred  for  the  performance. 

As  soon  as  they  had  unearthed  this  strange  biped,  they 
ran  around,  scenting  his  person  and  examining  him  through- 
out with  the  greatest  apparent  delight  and  curiosity.  The 
advent  of  this  curious  and  novel  creature  was  an  occasion 
of  no  ordinary  moment  to  them,  and  a council  of  venerable 
and  sage  old  wolves  was  at  once  assembled  to  determine 
what  disposition  should  be  made  of  him. 


178 


VISIT  OF  COMANCHES. 


The  Tonkawa  addressed  them  as  follows:  “You  have 
taken  me  from  the  spirit  land  where  I was  contented  and 
happy,  and  brought  me  into  this  world  where  I am  a stran- 
ger, and  I know  not  what  I shall  do  for  subsistence  and 
clothing.  It  is  better  you  should  place  me  back  where 
you  found  me,  otherwise  I shall  freeze  or  starve.” 

After  mature  deliberation  the  council  declined  returning 
him  to  the  earth,  and  advised  him  to  gain  a livelihood  as 
the  wolves  did ; to  go  out  into  the  wilderness,  and  rob,  kill, 
and  steal  wherever  opportunity  presented.  They  then 
placed  a bow  and  arrows  in  his  hands,  and  told  him  with 
these  he  must  furnish  himself  with  food  and  clothing ; that 
he  could  wander  about  from  place  to  place  like  the  wolves, 
but  that  he  must  never  build  a house  or  cultivate  the  soil ; 
that  if  he  did  he  would  surely  die. 

This  injunction,  the  chief  informed  the  major,  had  al- 
ways been  strictly  adhered  to  by  the  Tonkawas. 

The  Tonkawas,  in  point  of  numbers  when ' compared 
with  the  Comanches,  are  a very  insignificant  tribe ; and  the 
latter,  whenever  they  come  in  contact,  always  exercise  a - 
most  arbitrary  and  domineering  control  over  them.  As 
an  instance  of  this,  while  my  friend  Neighbors  was  quar- 
tered with  them,  a war-party  of  forty  Comanches,  led  by 
the  chief  Mo-ko-cho-pe,  came  into  camp,  and,  riding  up  to 
the  chiefs  lodge,  ordered  him,  in  a most  abrupt  and  dicta- 
torial manner,  to  take  charge  of  their  horses  and  prepare 
supper  for  them,  as  they  proposed  spending  the  night 
there.  Every  thing  they  directed  was  promptly  done,  even 
to  furnishing  them  with  forty  of  their  most  attractive  girls, 
which,  according  to  the  customs  of  some  of  the  tribes  at 
that  period,  was  regarded  as  essential  to  perfect  hospitality. 

In  the  mean  time  the  major  was  endeavoring  to  place 
himself  on  as  favorable  a footing  as  possible  with  the  chief, 
telling  him  who  he  was,  and  that  the  authorities  of  the  re- 


DENUDED  AGENT. 


179 


public  desired  to  establish  and  preserve  peaceable  relations 
with  all  the  prairie  tribes,  but  more  especially  with  the  Co- 
manches. 

The  chief  did  not  exactly  respond  to  these  friendly  sen- 
timents ; on  the  contrary,  he  said  he  believed  the  whites 
were  generally  great  rascals;  nevertheless,  he  acknowledged 
that  my  friend  appeared  to  be  an  exception  to  the  rule,  and 
that  he  was  rather  inclined  to  like  him  than  otherwise ; and 
he  even  condescended  to  express  considerable  admiration 
for  the  new  coat  he  wore.  The  major,  understanding  the 
import  of  the  compliment,  at  once  pulled  off  the  garment 
and  gave  it  to  him.  Another  Indian  then  came  up  and 
gave  his  especial  approbation  to  the  cut  of  his  vest,  another 
considered  his  pants  very  becoming,  while  others  thought 
his  cravat,  boots,  and  stockings  were  very  comfortable. 
All  of  these  articles  were  taken  off  and  distributed  as  they 
were  mentioned,  until  at  length  the  agent  of  the  Lone-star 
republic  found  himself  divested  of  all  his  apparel,  with  the 
exception  of  his  linen  shirt,  out  of  a wardrobe  which  he 
had  but  recently  procured  from  Austin; 

The  figure  which  the  warriors  cut  with  his  garments 
must  have  been  ludicrous  in  the  extreme ; and  the  major 
said  that,  notwithstanding  he  was  almost  in  a state  of  na- 
ture himself,  yet,  when  he  saw  one  of  these  people,  with  only 
a satin  vest,  or  a coat,  pants,  or  cravat,  strutting  about  with 
all  the  pride  of  a city  exquisite,  he  was  unable  to  pre- 
serve his  dignity,  and  laughed  most  heartily. 

After  they  had  stripped  him  of  every  thing  they  could 
get,  they  applauded  his  liberality  in  the  highest  terms,  and 
acknowledged  that  he  was  a first-rate  fellow ; indeed,  they 
thought  he  was  almost  good  enough  to  be  a Comanche ; 
and,  as  an  evidence  of  their  good  opinion,  they  were  willing 
he  should  join  them  in  the  horse-stealing  expedition  upon 
which  they  were  then  bound ; and,  as  an  incentive  to  his 


180 


DEPARTURE  FROM  FORT  BELKNAP. 


ambition,  they  promised,  in  the  event  of  his  good  behavior, 
that  they  would  give  him  a Comanche  wife,  and  adopt  him 
into  the  tribe  on  their  return. 

He  knew  the  effect  of  declining  this  flattering  offer  would 
be  to  incur  their  displeasure,  and  set  out  with  them,  determ- 
ined to  make  his  escape  the  first  opportunity  that  offered. 

After  traveling  several  days  they  arrived  at  a Mexican 
ranch,  where  there  were  large  herds  of  cattle,  and,  as  they 
were  quite  hungry,  the  major,  at  the  request  of  the  chief,  ap- 
plied to  the  proprietor  for  some  beef,  and  promised  him 
payment  through  the  Indian  Bureau  on  his  return  to  Aus- 
tin. The  old  man,  however,  declined  letting  his  beef  go 
unless  the  money  was  paid  upon  the  spot.  When  this  was 
reported  to  Mo-ko-cho-pe,  he  went  to  the  Mexican  himself, 
and  told  him  that  if  he  delivered  to  them  two  beeves  with- 
in half  an  hour’s  time  it  might  be  well  with  him,  but  if  the 
beeves  were  not  turned  over  at  the  time  named  he  would 
burn  his  ranch  and  destroy  all  his  cattle. 

This  had  the  desired  effect,  and  the  beef  was  delivered 
very  soon. 

A few  days  after  this  the  major  made  his  escape  from 
the  Indians  and  returned  to  Austin,-  where  he  was  enabled 
to  replenish  his  wardrobe. 

After  concluding  our  “talk”  with  the  Indians  at  Fort 
Belknap,  we  set  forward  to  explore  the  country  upon  the 
Big  Witchita  and  the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos.  This  re- 
gion was  then  a “ terra  incognita,”  and  has  not  been  occu- 
pied by  white  men  since. 

The  following  extracts  from  my  journal,  giving  my  im- 
pressions of  the  country  as  I passed  over  it,  will  probably 
convey  a more  accurate  idea  of  this  section  than  can  be 
given  in  any  other  way. 

“ On  the  15th  of  July  we  left  Fort  Belknap,  and  traveled 
back  on  the  Preston  road  for  fourteen  miles  to  the  1 Cotton- 


LITTLE  WITCHITA  RIVER. 


181 


wood  Spring ,’  upon  the  large  prairie  east  of  that  post.  Here 
we  encamped,  and  at  an  early  hour  the  following  morning 
left  the  road,  striking  out  into  the  prairie  with  a course  a 
few  degrees  west  of  north  toward  the  Little  Witchita  River, 
passing  over  a rolling  country  covered  with  groves  of  mes- 
quit-trees,  and  intersected  by  several  spring-branches  (trib- 
utaries to  ‘Salt  Creek’),  flowing  through  valleys  clothed 
with  a dense  coating  of  verdure,  and  teeming  with  a multi- 
tude of  beautiful  flowers  of  brilliant  hues,  the  aroma  from 
which  filled  the  atmosphere  with  a most  delicate  and  fra- 
grant perfume. 

“We  made  our  camp  at  a fine  large  spring  near  the  head 
of  one  of  the  branches  of  the  west  fork  of  the  Trinity. 

“Our  course  the  next  day  was  northwest  for  six  miles, 
crossing  several  small  tributaries  of  the  Trinity,  all  of  which 
were  wooded  with  mesquit,  and  occasionally  a grove  of 
post-oak  was  seen,  *with  here  and  there  a cottonwood  or 
willow  tree  along  the  banks. 

“ The  water  in  all  these  branches  is  clear  and  palatable, 
and  may  be  relied  on  throughout  the  season. 

“The  geological  features  of  this  section  are  characterized 
by  a predominance  of  dark  sandstone,  which  in  many  places 
crops  out  or  is  laid  bare  by  the  action  of  water,  and  is  cov- 
ered with  detached  fragments  of  volcanic  scoria. 

“We  are  encamped  to-night  upon  a confluent  of  the 
‘Little  Witchita,’  which  is  here  bordered  by  high,  abrupt, 
rocky  bluffs.  The  water  stands  in  pools  along  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  and,  although  by  no  means  good,  it  is  drink- 
able. 

“ Our  course  on  the  morning  of  the  18th  was  nearly  west, 
gradually  deflecting  to  the  southward,  for  the  purpose  of 
avoiding  the  numerous  branches  of  the  Witchita,  but  we 
soon  discovered  they  would  take  us  too  far  out  of  our 
course,  and  turned  north,  crossing  them  at  right  angles. 


182 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 


“ Our  march  this  morning  led  us  along  a gradual  slope 
of  beautiful  and  picturesque  country,  interspersed  with  mes- 
quit  glades  and  prairie  lawns,  for  about  eight  miles,  when 
we  found  ourselves,  on  reaching  the  crest  of  the  ascent, 
upon  the  summit  level  of  three  streams,  the  ‘Brazos,’  ‘Trin- 
ity,’ and  the  ‘ Little  Witchita.’  Here  a most  beautiful  pan- 
orama was  opened  out  to  our  view.  On  our  left,  in  the 
distance,  could  be  seen  the  lofty  cliffs  bordering  the  Brazos, 
while  in  front  of  us,  toward  the  sources  of  the  Little  Witch- 
ita, were  numerous  conical  mounds,  whose  regular  and  sym- 
metrical outlines  were  exhibited  with  remarkable  truth 
and  distinctness  on  a background  of  transparent  blue  sky. 
On  our  right,  several  tributaries  of  the  Little  Witchita,  em- 
bellished with  light  fringes  of  trees,  flowed  in  graceful  sin- 
uosities among  green  flowering  meadows,  through  a basin 
of  surpassing  beauty  and  loveliness  as  far  to  the  east  as  the 
eye  could  reach — all  contributing  enticing  features  to  the 
romantic  scenery,  and  producing  a most  pleasing  effect  upon 
the  senses. 

“We  continued  the  same  course  on  the  19tb,  crossing 
several  more  of  the  Witchita  tributaries,  which  caused  us 
considerable  detention  in  excavating  banks  and  construct- 
ing bridges  to  cross  our  train. 

“ The  soil  in  the  valleys  of  all  these  streams  is  a rich  mel- 
low alluvion  of  a highly  productive  character,  and,  were  it 
not  for  the  scarcity  of  timber  which  begins  to  be  apparent, 
this  would  undoubtedly  prove  a desirable  farming  locality. 

“ The  adjacent  uplands  are  broken  and  rolling,  but  the 
soil  possesses  the  elements  of  fertility.  Upon  the  summit 
of  the  bluffs,  at  the  head  of  the  streams  we  are  now  passing, 
nothing  can  be  seen  toward  the  west  but  one  unbroken  ex- 
panse of  prairie,  spreading  out  beyond  till  it  is  lost  in  the 
dim  distance. 

“In  previous  communications  to  the  War  Department,  I 


SCARCITY  OF  TIMBER. 


183 


have  spoken  of  the  great  deficiency  of  building  timber 
where  I have  traveled  west  of  the  1 Cross  Timbers.'1  It  may 
be  added  here  that  the  same  facts  are  observed  in  this  sec- 
tion ; and  although  mesquit  is  found  sufficient  for  fuel,  yet 
there  is  a great  scarcity  of  timber  suitable  for  building  pur- 
poses. There  are,  however,  many  quarries  of  stone,  which 
might  answer  as  a substitute. 

“ If  this  country  is  ever  densely  populated  by  agricultur- 
ists, a new  era  in  husbandry  must  be  instituted.  Nature 
seems  to  demand  this.  Instead  of  clearing  up  timbered 
lands  for  the  plow,  as  in  the  Eastern  States,  it  will  be  nec- 
essary to  cultivate  timber ; indeed,  this  has  already  been 
commenced  in  some  Western  prairies  with  successful  re- 
sults. 

“We  find  an  abundance  of  game  throughout  this  section, 
and  our  hunters  are  enabled  to  keep  the  entire  command 
supplied  with  fresh  meat,  so  that  we  have  had  no  occasion 
to  make  use  of  our  beef  cattle. 

“ Our  noon  halt  to-day  was  upon  the  summit  of  a hill, 
where  we  found  a spring  of  cool,  wholesome  water,  sur- 
rounded with  a luxuriant  crop  of  grass,  which  afforded  our 
cattle  the  very  best  pasturage. 

“ After  noon  we  continued  on  for  about  eight  miles  over 
mesquit  glades,  when  we  arrived  in  a broad  lowland  val- 
ley, through  which  meanders  a stream  about  twenty  feet 
wide  and  two  feet  deep.  This  proved  to  be  the  main  trunk 
of  the  Little  Witchita.  Its  banks  are  about  ten  feet  high, 
very  abrupt,  and  skirted  with  elm  and  cottonwood.  The 
water  has  a slightly  brackish  taste,  but  is  palatable. 

“We  remained  in  camp  on  the  20th,  making  preparations 
to  leave  the  train  and  escort  at  this  place,  while  Major 
Neighbors  and  myself  proposed  to  make  an  excursion  to- 
ward Red  River.  As  we  should,  under  any  circumstances, 
be  obliged  to  return  this  way,  and  could  move  much  more 


184 


SWARM  OF  BEES. 


rapidly  with  pack  mules  than  with  our  wagons,  and  as  we 
did  not  anticipate  meeting  hostile  Indians  in  this  direction, 
we  determined  to  take  with  us  only  our  Delawares  and  three 
soldiers.  Accordingly,  on  the  following  morning,  we  start- 
ed at  an  early  hour  in  a course  nearly  due  east  down  the  val- 
ley of  the  creek  upon  which  we  had  encamped,  and,  after 
descending  fifteen  miles,  arrived  at  a point  where  another 
large  tributary  from  the  north  united  with  the  main  branch. 
Directly  at  the  confluence  our  Indians  discovered  a swarm 
of  bees,  that  had  taken  up  their  abode  in  a dry  limb  of  a gi- 
gantic old  cottonwood-tree.  We  were  anxious  to  get  the 
honey,  but  a small  hatchet  was  the  only  substitute  for  an 
axe  in  our  possession  ; and  as  chopping  down  the  tree  with 
this  was  out  of  the  question,  I was  upon  the  point  of  leav- 
ing the  industrious  little  insects  in  quiet  possession  of  the 
fruits  of  their  labors,  when  one  of  the  Delawares  resorted  to 
the  ingenious  expedient  of  climbing  a small  tree  standing 
near  the  cottonwood,  and,  on  reaching  the  top,  swung  him- 
self within  reach  of  the  limb  that  contained  the  desired 
treasure.  He  was  soon  seated  upon  it,  and,  fastening  to  it 
a lariat  which  was  thrown  to  him,  we  seized  the  other  end, 
and  with  our  united  efforts  broke  off  the  part  containing 
the  honey,  which  afforded  us  all  a bountiful  feast.  We  then 
resumed  our  journey  down  the  stream,  and  traveled  thirteen 
miles  before  we  encamped. 

“ The  character  of  the  country  along  the  valley  is  similar 
to  that  at  our  last  camp.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  rich,  pro- 
ducing a heavy  crop  of  grass,  but  the  valley  is  subject  to 
inundation,  and  no  woodland  is  seen  except  directly  along 
the  banks  of  the  stream. 

11  The  valley  varies  from  half  a mile  to  two  miles  in  width, 
and  is  shut  in  by  rolling  uplands,  entirely  void  of  any  tim- 
ber save  mesquit. 

“ There  are  timbered  lands  below  this  point,  but  they  are 


PECAN  FORK. 


185 


mostly  disposed  of  by  the  state,  and  are  not  now  vacant ; 
we  did  not,  therefore,  deem  it  advisable  to  proceed  any  far- 
ther in  this  direction,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  following 
day  turned  north  toward  the  Big  Witchita  Biver,  not  ex- 
pecting to  find  any  more  tributaries  to  the  Little  Witchita, 
but,  after  traveling  about  five  miles,  we  crossed  another 
nearly  as  large  as  the  main  branch.  This  proved  to  be  the 
most  northerly  confluent.  It  was  twelve  feet  wide,  the 
J)anks  high,  and  lined  with  large  pecan  - trees,  and,  as  we 
have  seen  none  of  this  timber  upon  the  other  branches,  it 
occurred  to  us  that  it  might  appropriately  be  named  the 
£ Pecan  Fork.’  The  water  during  this  dry  season  stands  in 
pools  along  the  bed  of  the  creek,  but  it  is  free  from  salts 
and  palatable. 

“ There  is  more  timber  along  this  branch  than  upon  the 
others,  but  away  from  the  stream  no  woodland  is  seen,  and 
the  soil  here  does  not  appear  to  be  as  prolific  as  upon  the 
other  branches. 

“Leaving  the  valley  of  the  * Pecan  Fork,’  we  continued 
on  in  a north  course  over  a very  elevated  prairie  for  seven 
miles,  which  brought  us  upon  the  crest  of  the  ridge  dividing 
the  waters  of  the  ‘ Little’  from  those  of  the  ‘ Big  Witchita,’ 
from  whence  we  descended  by  a smooth  and  regular  grade 
for  eight  miles,  and  entered  the  valle}?-  of  the  latter  stream, 
making  our  noon  halt  in  a grove  of  hackberry-trees,  near  a 
pool  of  muddy  water. 

“ After  dinner  we  crossed  the  valley,  which  was  here 
about  three  miles  wide,  and  found  ourselves  standing  upon 
the  bank  of  the  Big  Witchita,  and,  ascending  about  four 
miles,  discovered  a large  spring  of  cold  pure  water  bursting 
out  from  the  bank  near  the  river,  and  here  made  our  biv- 
ouac for  the  night. 

“After  a long  and  tiresome  march,  through  an  atmos- 
phere heated  almost  to  suffocation  by  the  intense  rays  of  a 

Q* 


186 


BIG  WITCHITA. 


southern  sun,  it  is  difficult  for  one  who  has  not  experienced 
the  sensation  to  conceive  the  exquisite  pleasure  imparted 
by  a drink  of  cold  water,  particularly  after  being  deprived 
of  it  for  a long  time.  Such  was  the  case  with  us  upon  this 
occasion,  and  every  one  now  seemed  perfectly  happy  and 
contented  with  himself  and  all  the  world. 

“ The  £ Big  Witchita’  River  at  this  point  is  180  yards 
wide  and  three  feet  deep,  with  a current  of  about  three 
miles  per  hour.  The  water  is  of  a reddish  cast,  and  rather 
turbid,  but  does  not  contain  so  much  sedimentary  matter  as 
the  water  of  the  Little  Witchita.  It  is  so  excessively  bitter 
and  nauseating  to  the  taste  that  it  can  only  be  drunk  in 
cases  of  the  greatest  extremity,  and  is  similar  to  the  water 
of  Red  River. 

“ We  are  at  this  place  about  twenty-five  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  river  (one  of  our  Delawares  having  visited  this 
locality  before  and  estimated  the  distance),  yet  the  river  is 
wider  here  than  at  its  confluence  with  Red  River. 

“It  never  rises  above  its  banks,  which  are  from  ten  to 
twenty  feet  high,  and  although  its  general  direction  is  near- 
ly east  and  west,  it  frequently  flows  toward  all  points  of  the 
compass  within  a short  distance.  Its  course  is  very  tortu- 
ous, running  from  one  side  to  the  other  of  a valley  about 
four  miles  wide,  bounded  upon  both  sides  by  lofty  bluffs. 
The  soil  in  the  valley  is  a dark  red  and  exceedingly  rich 
alluvion,  covered  with  the  very  best  grass  ; unfortunately, 
however,  the  almost  total  absence  of  woodland,  and  the 
very  great  scarcity  of  good  water,  will  render  this  section 
unsuited  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture. 

“With  the  exception  of  a scanty  skirt  of  cottonwood- 
trees  along  the  course  of  the  river  (and  even  this,  in  many 
places,  entirely  disappears),  there  is  no  timber  in  this  part 
of  the  valley.  These  considerations  influenced  us  in  reject- 
ing this  as  a locality  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  Indians,  ex- 
cept for  purposes  of  hunting. 


BEAVER  CREEK. 


187 


“On  the  morning  of  the  23d  we  reluctantly  took  our  de: 
parture  from  the  cold  spring,  crossed  the  river,  and  ascend- 
ed a large  tributary  which  entered  from  the  northwest, 
about  four  miles  above  our  camp  of  last  night.  This  stream 
is  about  thirty  yards  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  and  flows  with 
a lively  current  over  a stratum  of  rock  and  gravel,  between 
high  banks  bordered  with  cottonwood  and  hackberry  trees. 
The  water  is  bitter,  but  not  so  unpalatable  as  that  in  the 
principal  branch.  It  is  clear,  and  probably  issues  from  the 
gypsum  formation. 

“We  observed  several  places  where  the  beavers  had  left 
evidences  of  their  industry,  and  in  one  spot  they  had  quite 
recently  cut  down  several  large  trees.  This  suggested  to 
us  the  name  we  have  applied  to  this  pretty  stream, £ Beaver 
Creek.’ 

“We  made  our  noon  halt  upon  it,  about  twelve  miles 
above  its  mouth,  and  partook  of  a sumptuous  dinner  of  fish 
and  soft-shell  turtle,  with  which  the  stream  abounds. 

“We  have  been  exceedingly  annoyed  for  a few  days  past 
with  horse-flies.  They  are  enormously  large,  and  their  sav- 
age attacks  upon  our  animals  cause  them  much  acute  suf- 
fering. A dark  blue  variety  that  I saw  was  nearly,  if  not 
quite  as  large  as  a small  humming-bird,  and  they  no  sooner 
light  upon  an  animal  than  the  blood  follows  copiously. 

“We  left  the  creek  in  the  evening  and  traveled  back  to 
the  Big  Witchita,  making  our  camp  upon  the  north  bank, 
near  some  pools  of  fresh  water  in  a ravine. 

“In  the  morning  we  turned  south,  and  directed  our  course 
for  camp,  where  we  arrived  about  twelve  o’clock,  found  ev- 
ery thing  quiet,  and  our  animals  in  fine  'condition  for  our 
onward  march. 

“An  early  departure  was  made  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  we  marched  twelve  miles  along  the  south  bank  of 
the  creek,  making  our  camp  at  some  pools  of  muddy  water. 


188 


COPPER  AND  IRON.’ 


As  we  ascend  this  stream,  the  timber  along  the  banks  di- 
minishes in  size  and  quantity,  and  at  this  place  the  few  trees 
that  are  seen  do  not  average  more  than  fifteen  feet  in  height. 

“We  are  now  near  the  sources  of  the  principal  branch  of 
the  Little  Witchita,  and  as  our  course  from  hence  will  prob- 
ably lead  us  along  the  ridge  dividing  the  Brazos  from  the 
Big  Witchita,  the  waters  of  both  of  which  are  wholly  unfit 
for  use,  we  sent  our  Indians  out,  soon  after  we  encamped,  to 
search  for  good  water  in  advance.  They  returned  in  the 
evening  and  reported  a supply  fifteen  miles  distant. 

“We  resumed  our  march  the  next  day,  in  a course  a lit- 
tle south  of  west,  along  the  high  prairie  ‘ divide,’  making 
our  night  halt  upon  the  summit  of  a very  elevated  bluff 
bordering  the  valley  of  the  Big  Witchita,  and  about  400 
yards  distant  from  a small  spring  of  water  in  a deep  ravine. 

“In  our  course  to-day  we  passed  near  a very  prominent 
mound,  standing  upon  the  crest  of  the  dividing  ridge  where 
it  has  the  greatest  elevation.  From  its  anomalous  conform- 
ation and  peculiar  outline,  it  presents  an  eminently  conspic- 
uous landmark,  and  can  be  distinguished  for  many  miles  in 
all  directions. 

“At  the  base  of  this  mound  we  discovered  some  rich 
specimens  of  the  blue  carbonate  of  copper,  and  near  this  we 
also  observed  a vein  of  iron  ore,  fifteen  feet  in  thickness,  of 
exceedingly  rich  quality. 

“The  dwarf  red  cedar  first  shows  itself  upon  the  bluffs 
of  the  Big  Witchita,  in  the  vicinity  of  our  camp,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  a few  mesquit-trees,  it  is  the  only  wood  in 
this  section. 

“On  the  morning  of  the  27th  we  again  sent  our  Dela- 
wares in  advance  to  search  for  water,  as  we  were  fearful,  if 
we  proceeded  on  with  our  ox-teams  without  taking  this 
precaution,  we  might  be  obliged  to  encamp  without  that 
most  necessary  element.  As  the  country  in  this  direction 


WAR-PARTY. 


189 


is  becoming  so  exceedingly  arid,  we  Lave  resolved,  after  go- 
ing as  far  as  we  find  water  sufficient  for  all  our  animals,  to 
leave  tbe  train  with  a majority  of  the  escort,  and  push  rap- 
idly on,  with  a few  mounted  men  and  pack  animals,  to  the 
sources  of  the  river.  Our  Indians  returned  in  the  evening 
with  their  horses  much  jaded,  and  reported  that  they  could 
find  no  good  water  within  a distance  of  twenty-five  miles, 
save  one  small  spring,  only  affording  sufficient  for  a few 
men. 

“We  therefore,  on  the  following  morning,  found  a suita- 
ble place  to  encamp  our  train,  about  ten  miles  south  of  the 
Big  Witchita,  upon  a small  tributary  of  the  Brazos,  where 
the  water  was  good,  and  the  grass  and  fuel  abundant.  On 
visiting  this  spot,  Major  Neighbors  at  once  recognized  it  as 
the  place  where,  a long  time  since,  he  had  remained  for  sev- 
eral weeks  the  guest  of  a former  chief  of  the  Southern  Co- 
manches  (Mo-ko-cho-pe).  He  had  good  reasons  for  retain- 
ing a vivid  recollection  of  the  locality,  as  during  his  stay 
here  his  life  was  placed  in  imminent  jeopardy.  A war-par- 
ty of  Northern  Indians,  on  their  return  from  a foray  into 
Mexico,  in  passing  along  the  borders  of  Texas  had  lost  one 
of  their  number  in  a skirmish  with  some  of  the  frontier- 
men,  and,  on  their  arrival  at  Mo-ko-cho-pe’s  camp,  learning 
that  my  friend  Neighbors  was  there,  they  at  once  determ- 
ined that  he  should  be  the  victim  to  atone  for  the  death  of 
their  comrade.  They  accordingly  insisted  upon  his  being 
given  up  to  them,  and  enforced  their  arguments  with  threats 
of  vengeance  upon  their  hosts  in  the  event  of  a refusal  to 
comply  with  their  demands. 

“ Mo-ko-cho-pe  replied  to  them  that  Major  Neighbors 
was  his  friend  and  guest,  and  that  if  he  did  not  protect 
him  he  should  be  guilty  of  a flagrant  breach  of  hospitality ; 
that  he  would  never  give  his  sanction  to  such  an  outrage, 
and  if  they  persisted  in  carrying  out  their  designs,  they 


190 


LEAVE  THE  TRAIN. 


would  first  have  to  kill  him,  as  he  was  resolved  to  protect 
him  at  all  hazards.  When  the  council  was  over,  Mo-ko- 
cho-pe  informed  the  major  of  the  result,  and  advised  him 
to  remain  constantly  with  him  during  the  stay  of  the  war- 
riors. He  complied  implicitly  with  this  advice,  and  was 
not  sorry  when  the  war-party  took  its  departure  for  home. 

“On  the  following  morning,  after  giving  directions  to 
Lieutenant  Pearce  for  moving  the  camp,  Major  Neighbors, 
the  doctor,  and  mj^elf,  accompanied  by  five  Indians  and 
four  soldiers,  all  well  mounted,  with  pack  mules  loaded  with 
the  few  supplies  that  were  absolutely  necessary  for  a twelve 
days’  trip,  including  four  five-gallon  India-rubber  water- 
sacks,  set  out  with  the  firm  resolve  to  see  the  head  of  the 
Big  Witchita  and  Brazos  Rivers  before  our  return. 

“ Although  our  numbers  were  small,  and  we  were  about 
to  penetrate  into  the  heart  of  a country  infested  by  Indians 
of  the  most  lawless  propensities,  yet  the  scarcity  of  water 
compelled  us  to  adopt  this  course  in  order  to  proceed  any 
farther  in  this  direction. 

“Our  course  for  the  first  ten  miles  was  nearly  west,  along 
upon  the  crest  of  the  lofty  cliffs  bordering  the  valley  of  the 
Witchita,  when  we  turned  to  the  north,  and  descended  by  a 
very  tortuous  oourse  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  bluffs,  at 
the  base  of  which  we  struck  the  trail  of  a party  of  Indians 
traveling  to  the  north  with  five  stolen  horses.  They  had 
passed  about  ten  days  previous,  and  were  moving  slowly,  all 
of  which  was  evident  from  the  fact  that  the  whites  never 
visit  this  section,  and  that  five  of  the  horses  whose  tracks 
we  saw  were  shod. 

“ Continuing  on  up  the  valley  for.fifteen  miles,  we  had 
the  good  fortune  to  discover  a small  spring  of  cold  pure 
water  near  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  here  we  bivouacked 
for  the  night. 

“We  had  taken  the  precaution  in' the  morning  to  fill 


FIRE  IN  CAMP. 


191 


our  India-rubber  sacks  with  water,  but,  after  traveling  a 
few  hours  exposed  to  the  hot  rajs  of  the  sun,  the  taste  of 
the  water  became  so  rank  and  disagreeable  that  we  could 
not  drink  it.  I had,  however,  previous  to  leaving  New 
York  city,  purchased  for  my  own  use  a canteen  made  of 
the  gutta-percha,  and  I was  happy  to  find  that  this  did  not 
impart  any  disagreeable  properties  to  water,  even  after  re- 
maining for  several  days  exposed  to  the  sun’s  rays  in  an 
atmosphere  heated  to  a temperature  of  102°  in  the  shade. 

“ I take  this  occasion  to  remark  that,  in  my  opinion,  the 
gutta-percha  is  far  preferable  as  a material  for  water  ves- 
sels to  the  India-rubber,  and  I have  no  hesitation  in  recom- 
mending for  use  in  a southern  climate  the  water-tanks  and 
canteens  made  of  this  material. 

“ The  India-rubber,  after  it  has  been  manufactured  for  a 
few  months,  besides  communicating  an  unwholesome  taste  to 
water,  becomes  adhesive,  and  destroy s the  fabric  upon  which 
it  is  spread,  whereas  the  gutta-percha,  after  five  months’  ex- 
posure in  the  climate  of  Texas,  did  not  adhere  in  the  least, 
and  was  unimpaired  by  use. 

“ An  accident  occurred  this  evening  which  gave  us  no 
little  alarm.  While  we  were  bathing  in  the  river  we  heard 
the  cry  of  fire,  and,  running  back  to  camp,  discovered  the 
grass  burning  furiously,  and,  in  spite  of  the  vigorous  ef- 
forts of  the  Indians,  already  in  close  proximity  to  our  equi- 
page. We  dashed  in,  and  were  fortunate  enough  to  secure 
most  of  the  articles  before  the  flames  reached  them. 

“As  we  are  now  just  entering  the  country  where  gypsum 
is  the  predominating  rock,  and  as  we  had  satisfied  ourselves 
in  our  former  travels  that  the  chances  for  finding  good  wa- 
ter in  a section  where  this  mineral  abounds  are  but  few,  we 
pushed  forward  as  rapidly  as  possible  up  the  river,  crossing 
several  small  streams,  all  of  which  we  tasted,  but  found  the 
character  of  the  water  similar  to  that  in  the  main  river. 


192 


SOURCE  OF  BIG  W1TCHITA. 


After  traveling  twenty-seven  miles  we  found  tlie  river  re- 
duced to  a width  of  only  thirty  yards.  We  continued  on 
for  ten  miles  farther,  hoping  every  turn  would  disclose  to 
us  a fresh- water  tributary,  but  we  were  disappointed,  and 
encamped  upon  a small  affluent  of  bitter  water,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  make  use  of.  Several  of  the  party  have 
been  attacked  with  diarrhoea  and  cramps  in  the  bowels 
from  drinking  the  water,  and  it  causes  all  to  feel  more  or 
less  uncomfortable. 

“ The  portion  of  the  valley  over  which  we  have  been 
passing  for  the  last  forty  miles  is  barren  and  sandy,  and 
the  only  woodland  is  upon  the  bluffs,  which  are  covered 
with  dwarf  cedar,  with  an  occasional  lonely  cottonwood  or 
mesquit  in  the  valley.  Here  and  there  may  be  seen  a small 
patch  of  wild  rye  or  gramma  grass,  but  the  principal  herb- 
age in  the  valley  is  a coarse  variety  of  grass  unsuited  to  the 
palates  of  our  animals. 

“ On  the  following  morning  we  left  our  salt-water  biv- 
ouac at  an  early  hour,  and  traveled  rapidly  on  through 
the  rough  and  intricate  labyrinth  of  cedar  bluffs  which  are 
closing  in  near  the  river  bank,  and  rendering  it  necessary 
to  pass  over  them  in  threading  the  narrow  defile  of  the  val- 
ley. A few  miles  brought  us  to  a point  where  the  river 
separated  into  several  branches,  all  having  their  origin  in 
the  valley  before  us.  Taking  the  principal  one  of  these, 
we  followed  it  up  for  several  miles  through  the  lofty  bluffs 
bounding  the  valley,  until  we  reached  its  source  upon  the 
plateau  above.  We  found  ourselves  here  about  two  hund- 
red and  fifty  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and,  on  turn- 
ing toward  the  valley  from  whence  we  had  just  emerged,  a 
most  beautiful  and  extensive  picture  greeted  our  eyes 
— the  different  confluents  of  the  Witchita  dividing  as  they 
neared  their  sources  into  numerous  ramifications,  all  of 
which  we  were  enabled  from  our  lofty  observatory  to 


DESOLATE  COUNTRY. 


193 


trace  in  their  tortuous  meanderings  to  the  very  heads,  and 
beyond  these  could  be  discerned  the  dim  outline  of  a 
range  of  mountains,  which  stretched  away  to  the  south  to- 
ward the  Brazos.  All  united  in  forming  a landscape  pleas- 
ing to  the  eye ; but  this  is  the  only  feature  in  the  country 
which  has  left  an  agreeable  impression  upon  my  memory, 
and  I bade  adieu  to  its  desolate  and  inhospitable  borders 
without  the  least  feeling  of  regret,  for  it  is,  in  almost  every 
respect,  the  most  uninteresting  and  forbidding  land  I have 
ever  visited.  A barren  and  parsimonious  soil,  affording  lit- 
tle but  weeds  and  coarse  unwholesome  grass,  with  an  inter- 
mixture of  cacti  of  most  uncomely  and  grotesque  shapes, 
studded  with  a formidable  armor  of  thorns  which  defies  the 
approach  of  man  or  beast,  added  to  the  fact  already  alluded 
to  of  the  scarcity  of  wood  or  good  water,  would  seem  to 
render  it  probable  that  this  section  was  not  designed  by  the 
Creator  for  occupation,  and  I question  if  the  next  century 
will  see  it  populated  by  civilized  man.  Even  the  Indians 
shun  this  country,  and  there  were  no  evidences  of  their 
camps  along  the  valley,  so  that  the  bears  (which  are  numer- 
ous here)  are  left  in  undisturbed  possession.  On  leaving 
the  Witchita,  we  traveled  south  toward  the  Brazos  for  six 
miles  through  mesquit  groves,  when  we  were  rejoiced  to 
find  a miniature  spring  of  fresh  water  dripping  slowly  out 
from  under  a rock  near  the  crest  of  the  ridge  dividing  the 
waters  of  the  "Witchita  from  those  of  the  Brazos.  After 
suffering  intensely  from  thirst  for  two  days,  it  may  be  im- 
agined that  it  made  our  hearts  glad  to  taste  the  pure  ele- 
ment once  more. 

“ As  there  was  no  reservoir  to  retain  the  water  as  it  is- 
sued from  the  rocks,  we  went  to  work  with  our  knives  and 
tin  cups,  and  in  a few  minutes  each  of  us  had  excavated  a 
small  hole  in  the  hard  clay,  which  soon  filled,  and  gave  us 
a most  refreshing  draught.  I am  not  prepared  to  say  that 

R 


194 


BRAZOS  RIVER. 


it  was  equal  to  Croton  water  cooled  with  Rockland  ice  (be- 
ing of  a deep  brown  color,  and  thick  with  sediment),  yet  I 
doubt  if  the  good  people  of  Gotham  ever  enjoyed  their 
boasted  and  justly  renowned  beverage  more  than  we  did 
this.  It  was  free  from  salts — that  was  sufficient  for  us — 
and  we  did  ample  justice  to  its  merits,  as  numerous  cupsful, 
which  disappeared  in  rapid  succession  down  our  parched 
and  feverish  throats,  abundantly  evinced. 

“Our  course  from  the  spring  was  nearly  parallel  with  the 
chain  of  mountains  now  distinctly  visible,  apparently  about 
fifteen  miles  to  our  right.  The  direction  of  the  chain  seems 
to  be  nearly  north  and  south,  and  extends  off,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach,  toward  the  Brazos.  Our  route  lay  in  the 
direction  of  one  of  the  most  prominent  peaks  of  the  chain, 
which  was  a very  perfect  cone,  and  apparently  symmetrical 
upon  all  sides.  Many  of  the  other  peaks,  however,  were 
truncated  and  irregular.  Twelve  miles’  travel  brought  us 
to  a branch  of  the  Brazos,  fifty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep, 
with  a rapid  current  flowing  over  a bed  of  quicksand,  and 
the  water,  as  usual,  bitter  and  unpalatable. 

“ On  the  1st  of  August  we  continued  on  toward  the  con- 
ical peak  of  the  mountains  for  twelve  miles,  when  we  struck 
another  branch  of  the  Brazos,  which  was  spread  out  over  a 
broad  bed  of  loose  sand  that  absorbs  most  of  the  water.  We 
followed  up  the  north  bank  of  this  for  a few  miles,  when 
we  encountered  still  another  tributary,  of  an  entirely  differ- 
ent appearance.  It  was  shut  in  by  high,  abrupt  clay  banks, 
the  water  clear,  deep,  and  covered  with  water  grasses,  v#ry 
much  like  one  of  our  northern  spring-brooks,  and  I felt  the 
utmost  confidence  that  we  should  find  the  water  fresh,  but 
it  proved  to  be,  if  possible,  worse  than  that  in  the  other 
branches. 

“It  is  thirty  yards  wide,  from  two  to  fifteen  feet  deep, 
and  runs  through  a valley  about  two  miles  wide,  with  no 
trees  upon  its  banks. 


MOUNTAINS. 


195 


“ It  was  literally  alive  with  a multitude  of  large  cat  and 
buffalo  fish,  several  of  which  we  caught  and  cooked  for  our 
dinner,  and  can  vouch  for  their  good  flavor. 

“After  dinner  we  crossed  the  stream,  which  we  called 
‘Catfish  Fork,’  and  in  eight  miles  passed  the  Round  Mount- 
ain, making  our  camp  in  the  mountains  five  miles  beyond. 

“We  find  many  spring-brooks  issuing  from  the  sides  of 
the  mountains,  but,  unfortunately,  the  formation  here  is  gyp- 
sum, and  all  the  streams  are  bitter. 

“ On  the  following  morning  we  made  our  way  with  dif- 
ficulty over  the  rugged  mountainous  region  for  several 
miles,  when  we  reached  the  base  of  a high  peak,  which  we 
determined  to  ascend.  Accordingly,  leaving  our  horses  in 
charge  of  the  men,  we  clambered  up  the  precipitous  sides 
of  the  eminence,  and,  on  attaining  the  summit,  found  our- 
selves in  a position  overlooking  the  surrounding  country 
for  a great  extent  in  all  directions. 

“The  principal  trunk  of  the  Brazos,  which  was  about 
two  miles  to  the  south,  could  be  traced  in  its  course  through 
the  mountains  to  the  west  to  its  very  source,  and  beyond 
this,  after  passing  a plain  of  several  miles  in  extent,  could 
be  seen  another  group  of  mountains  much  more  elevated 
than  those  we  are  now  traversing.  They  seem  to  be  about 
forty  miles  distant,  and  present  much  the  appearance  of 
some  of  the  most  elevated  spurs  in  the  Witchita  range,  and 
fully  as  elevated. 

“ The  outline  of  the  crest  of  this  group  is  more  deeply 
serrated  and  irregular,  and  the  apices  of  the  peaks  more 
acute  than  those  of  the  range  we  are  now  standing  upon, 
having  every  appearance  of  upheaval  and  volcanic  origin. 
If  this  conclusion  is  correct,  they  are  probably  composed  of 
primitive  rocks,  and,  from  their  geographical  position  and 
the  direction  of  the  group,  both  of  which  are  nearly  in  the 
direct  line  connecting  the  two  primitive  ranges  of  the 


196 


HEAD  OF  BRAZOS  RIVER. 


Guadalupe  and  Witchita,  it  has  occurred  to  me  that  this 
might  be  an  intermediate  outcrop  of  the  same  continuous 
chain.  I was  surprised  to  find  these  lofty  mountains  at  the 
.sources  of  the  Brazos,  as  I had  before  supposed  the  entire 
face  of  the  country  lying  between  the  Pecos  and  Red  Riv- 
ers to  be  one  continuous  and  unbroken  plain,  and  that  the 
Brazos,  like  the  Red  and  Colorado  Rivers,  had  its  origin  in 
the  table  lands  of  the  Llano  estacado.  On  facing  to  the 
east,  and  looking  back  over  the  country  we  had  been  trav- 
ersing, it  seemed  to  be  an  almost  perfectly  smooth  and  lev- 
el surface,  without  a hill  or  valley,  through  which-  we  could 
trace  the  several  tributaries  of  the  Brazos,  as  they  flowed 
on  in  graceful  curves,  until  they  finally  united  in  one  com- 
mon receptacle,  generally  known  as  the  main  or  £ Salt  Fork.’ 
This  we  followed  with  our  eyes  for  many  miles,  when  it 
gradually  disappeared  in  the  murky  atmosphere  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

“ After  feasting  our  eyes  for  some  time  upon  this  rare 
and  magnificent  scenery,  we  reluctantly  turned  our  steps 
down  the  mountain,  and  rode  forward  to  the  river. 

“It  was  a broad,  shallow  stream,  very  similar  to  the  other 
branches  I have  described,  about  forty  yards  wide,  with  a 
bed  of  light  quicksand,  and  the  water  very  saline  to  the 
taste.  We  were  subsequently  told  by  the  Comanches  that 
above  this  point,  upon  the  plain  between  the  two  ranges  of 
mountains,  this  stream  passes  over  a field  of  salt  (chloride 
of  sodium),  and  that  above  that  the  water  is  palatable. 

“After  traveling  ten  miles  south  from  the  Brazos  we  left 
the  gypsum  formation,  and  at  length  discovered  a pool  of 
fresh  water.  We  were  all  much  rejoiced  at  our  good  for- 
tune, and  bivouacked  for  the  night,  determined  to  solace 
ourselves  at  this  oasis  for  the  privations  of  the  past  three 
days. 

“ The  water  was  free  from  salts,  but  heavily  charged 


WAR-PARTY. 


197 


with  sediment,  and  we  were  obliged  to  boil  it  for  some 
time,  and  remove  from  the  surface  a very  considerable  per- 
centage of  thick  vegetable  matter  before  it  was  fit  for  use. 

“ For  two  days  past  we  have  seen  an  extensive  fire  on 
the  prairie  to  the  southwest,  and  supposed  it  was  made  by 
some  of  Pah-hah-eu-ka’s  band,  who,  our  Delawares  say,  are 
ranging  somewhere  in  this  vicinity ; but  we  subsequently 
learned  from  the  Comanches  that  a war-party  of  one  hund- 
red and  fifty  northern  Comanches,  Kioways,  Arapahoes, 
Cheyennes,  and  Sioux  passed  here  about  this  time  on  their 
way  to  join  another  party  of  one  hundred  of  their  people 
who  had  passed  farther  west,  with  the  intention  of  rendez- 
vousing at  the  crossing  of  the  Rio  Grande,  below  the  Pre- 
sidio del  Norte,  from  whence  they  proposed  to  penetrate 
Mexico,  indiscriminately  putting  to  death  men,  women,' and 
children,  laying  waste  haciendas,  driving  off  animals,  and 
doing  all  the  mischief  in  their  power. 

“Thus  they  proposed  to  avenge  the  death  of  nearly  a 
hundred  of  their  comrades  who  last  winter  were  entrapped 
by  the  Mexicans  in  a mountain  pass  near  Durango,  and 
met  with  a just  punishment  for  their  many  unprovoked 
atrocities. 

“They  have  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  different 
towns  in  northern  Mexico  for  the  ostensible  purpose  of 
traffic,  and  professing,  at  the-  same  time,  the  most  devoted 
friendship,  and  often  even  making  treaties  of  amity  and 
-peace,  wherein  they  pledge  themselves  forever  to  regard 
their  dupes  as  brothers,  and  to  refrain  in  future  from  com- 
mitting depredations  upon  them,  while,  pending  the  nego- 
tiations, they  are  looking  around  to  see  where  they  can 
operate  to  the  best  advantage,  when  suddenly  they  disap- 
pear from  the  neighborhood,  driving  off  animals,  and  kill- 
ing all  who  oppose  their  designs. 

“These  outrages  had  been  repeated  so  often  that  the 

R* 


198 


COMANCHES  DEFEATED. 


Mexicans,  upon  the  occasion  we  have  alluded  to,  resolved 
to  turn  the  tables  upon  them.  They  accordingly  met  the 
Indians  with  much  apparent  friendship,  and  invited  them 
to  hold  a council,  for  the  purpose  of  discussing  the  prelimi- 
naries of  a treaty  of  peace. 

“ The  council  was  convened  in  a valley  of  the  mountains, 
the  only  approaches  to  which  were  through  certain  passes 
that  could  easily  be  defended  by  a few  men.  These  they 
had  taken  the  precaution  to  guard  with  a good  number  of 
soldiers,  who,  as  soon  as  the  council  commenced  its  deliber- 
ations, fell  upon  the  astonished  Comanches,  and  put  nearly 
all  of  them  to  death.  The  few  that  escaped  wandered  back 
to  their  homes  in  the  north,  where  they  told  the  sad  tale  of 
their  disaster,  and  there  was  mourning  for  a long  time.  A 
feeling  of  indignation  was  aroused,  with  an  insatiable  thirst 
for  revenge,  which  resulted  in  fitting  out  the  large  party  I 
have  spoken  of.  What  would  have  been  our  fate  had  we 
encountered  them  it  is  impossible  to  tell ; we  were,  however, 
perfectly  contented  to  return  home  without  seeing  them. 

“The  foregoing  facts  were  detailed  to  us  by  several  of 
the  Comanches,  and  corroborated  by  the  Delawares,  and  I 
have  no  doubt  are  strictly  correct. 

“ I have  not  learned  the  result  of  this  expedition,  but  the 
presumption  would  be  that  a party  of  this  magnitude,  com- 
posed of  the  choice  spi  rits  of  several  different  warlike  tribes, 
all  burning  with  a thirst  for  revenge,  and  animated  by  a 
spirit  of  rivalry  and  desire  for  distinction,  which  such  an 
alliance  would  undoubtedly  engender,  would  not  return 
without  making  an  effort  to  accomplish  their  designs,  and 
I fear  the  Mexicans  have  suffered  a terrible  retribution. 

“I  was  very  desirous  of  extending  our  explorations  to 
the  mountains  beyond  the  head  of  the  Brazos,  but  my  asso- 
ciate, Major  Neighbors,  was  unwilling  to  go  farther  in  that 
direction,  as  he  had  already  suffered  much  from  drinking 


SOUTH  FORK  OF  BRAZOS. 


199  * 


the  gypsum  water;  as,  moreover,  one  of  the  soldiers  had 
become  very  much  debilitated  from  the  same  cause,  I re- 
luctantly abandoned  the  project,  and  contented  myself  with 
merely  seeing  from  a distance  the  position  of  some  of  the 
sources  of  the  river,  without  visiting  the  localities  ‘ in  pro- 
pria persona.7  I am  enabled,  however,  from  the  view  I ob- 
tained upon  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  and  from  the 
courses  I noted  down,  with  compass  in  hand,  at  several  dif- 
ferent points  on  our  route,  to  trace  the  streams  with  con- 
siderable accuracy,  and  to  approximate  to  the  distances. 

“ The  next  morning  we  directed  our  course  toward  the 
eastern  extremity  of  a low  mountain,  nearly  south  from  our 
last  camp,  which  I recognized  as  the  same  I had  seen  in 
1849,  from  the  point  where  the  Dona  Ana  road  strikes  a 
stream  which  has  heretofore  been  known  as  the  double 
mountain  fork  of  the  Brazos.  My  Delaware  guide  (Black 
Beaver)  upon  that  occasion  correctly  informed  me  that  this 
mountain  was  near  the  South  Fork  of  the  Brazos. 

“On  reaching  the  South  Fork  we  found  it  similar  in 
character  to  the  branch  we  passed  yesterday,  and  about  the 
same  magnitude.  Immediately  after  crossing  it  we  ascend- 
ed the  mountain,  which  was  here  composed  of  sandstone 
and  gypsum,  and  covered  with  cedar  bushes. 

“ Upon  the  summit  was  an  extensive  plateau  very  much 
resembling  the  Llano  estacado,  and  it  is  highly  probable 
this  may  be  a spur  of  that  plain. 

“ Toward  the  east  from  this  elevation  nothing  could  be 
seen  but  one  continuous  mesquit  flat,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  small  patches  of  open  prairie,  while  in  the  opposite 
direction,  in  a due  west  course,  we  discerned  the  elevated 
mountains  beyond  the  head  of  the  Brazos.  Two  peaks  pre- 
sented themselves  to  the  view  from  this  position,  the  out- 
line of  which  was  similar  to  the  figure  on  the  following  page. 

“After  leading  our  horses  down  the  mountain,  or  pla- 


200 


GAME  ABUNDANT. 


teau,  we  turned  our  faces  toward  the  train  and  traveled  un- 
til ten  o’clock  at  night,  encamping  at  a pool  of  despicable 
water,  with  which  we  manufactured  a cup  of  salt  coffee,  and 
with  a venison  steak,  cooked  by  friend  Neighbors  in  his 
best  camp  style  (which,  ‘by-the-by,’  would  not  bring  dis- 
credit upon  a professional  cuisiniere),  we  managed  to  make 
a supper. 

“On  the  following  morning  we  saddled  up  early  and 
rode  rapidly  forward,  hoping  to  find  some  good  water  for 
our  breakfast.  Eighteen  miles  brought  us  to  some  pools 
of  water  in  the  bed  of  a creek,  where  we  breakfasted,  and 
continued  on  down  the  bank  of  the  stream  for  eight  miles, 
when  we  encountered  a terrific  thunder  - shower,  which 
called  into  requisition  all  our  gutta-percha  and  India-rub- 
ber habiliments,  and  those  of  the  party  who  were  not  pro- 
vided with  them  were  thoroughly  drenched. 

“ The  country  through  which  we  are  now  passing  is  gen- 
tly undulating  and  covered  with  mesquit-trees.  The  soil  is 
very  rich,  producing  several  varieties  of  gramma  and  mes- 
quit  grasses,  and  begins  to  be  watered  with  streams  of  fresh 
water. 

“The  deer  and  turkeys  are  plenty  in  this  section,  and 
our  hunters  have  no  difficulty  in  supplying  us  with  fresh 
meat.  "We  now  and  then  see  an  antelope;  I have,  how- 
ever, met  with  very  few  during  the  entire  trip,  and  they 
seem  to  have  almost  disappeared  since  I was  in  this  coun- 
try in  1849. 

“We  encamped  upon  the  creek,  where  we  found  a sup- 
ply of  good  running  water,  and  the  following  morning 


A CHARMING  VALLEY. 


201 


passed  another  larger  stream  flowing  from  the  south.  "We 
here  left  the  main  creek  and  turned  to  the  left,  ascending  a 
small  spring-branch  for  twelve  miles,  finding  water  along 
the  entire  distance. 

“ This  stream  runs  south  20°  west,  and  takes  its  rise 
upon  the  south  side  of  the  ridge  dividing  the  Clear  Fork 
from  the  Salt  Fork  of  the  Brazos.  It  will  always  afford  a 
sufficiency  of  good  water  for  the  largest  trains  in  the  dry- 
est  seasons,  and  I have  no  doubt  that  the  large  creek  en- 
tering from  the  south,  before  mentioned,  would  supply  wa- 
ter for  many  miles  farther  in  the  direction  of  its  course. 
Had  we  known  these  facts  before  leaving  the  main  body 
of  the  escort,  we  would  have  had  no  difficulty  in  bringing 
the  train  much  nearer  the  sources  of  the  Brazos. 

“ Passing  the  sources  of  the  spring-creek,  in  the  even- 
ing we  traveled  fifteen  miles  over  mesquit  uplands,  and  en- 
camped at  a spring  of  good  water.  Our  course  the  next 
morning  was  north  20°  east  for  fifteen  miles,  which  carried 
us  to  the  borders  of  a valley  inclosed  with  a barrier  of 
lofty  and  rugged  hills,  which  shut  out  the  bleak  northers 
that  in  the  winter  sweep  across  these  prairies. 

“ From  the  crest  of  these  hills  the  valley  below  presented 
a carpet  of  verdant  grasses,  besprinkled  with  a profusion  of 
flowers  of  the  most  vivid  hues,  through  the  midst  of  which 
meandered  one  of  the  most  beautiful  streams  of  pure  water 
I have  seen  in  this  country. 

“We  entered  this  charming  valley,  and  on  reaching  the 
banks  of  the  creek  discovered  that  a large -party  of  Kicka- 
poos,  with  their  usual  good  taste,  had  occupied  this  locality 
for  a hunting  camp.  The  skeletons  of  their  lodges  (fifty- 
six  in  number)  were  still  standing,  and,  judging  from  the 
piles  of  deer’s  hair  which  we  observed  in  several  places, 
and  the  bones  scattered  over  the  ground  in  all  directions, 
they  must  have  made  a successful  hunt  while  here.  Our 


202 


HOT  WEATHER. 


Indians  pronounced  it  four  weeks  since  the  camp  had  been 
occupied. 

“ Passing  the  creek,  we  continued  on  for  ten  miles,  when 
we  again  struck  the  main  trunk  of  the  Brazos,  and,  ascend- 
ing five  miles,  our  eyes  were  once  more  gladdened  by  the 
sight  of  the  encampment  of  the  escort. 

“We  joined  our  comrades,  and,  after  the  privations  we 
had  necessarily  been  subjected  to  during  our  excursion,  en- 
joyed exceedingly  the  few  luxuries  our  remaining  stores 
afforded. 

“The  weather  during  our  absence  had  been  very  hot 
(the  thermometer  sometimes  at  102°  Fahrenheit  in  the 
shade),  we  had  been  obliged  to  ride  during  almost  the  en- 
tire day  for  the  whole  journey,  yet  the  trip  had  not  been 
without  its  attractions,  and  we  trust  the  information  we 
have  obtained  concerning  this  hitherto  unknown  region 
will  be  of  sufficient  importance  to  compensate  us  for  our 
trouble. 

“ Those  of  us  who  had  suffered  from  the  effects  of  the 
gypsum  water  were  relieved  as  soon  as  we  left  that  min- 
eral. Even  the  soldier  who  had  been  so  very  ill  was  al- 
most entirely  restored  on  our  arrival  at  the  main  camp. 

“ In  conversing  with  the  Comanches  afterward  upon  this 
subject,  they  said  they  always  avoided  this  country  as  much 
as  possible ; that  whenever  they  had  visited  it  they  had  in- 
variably been  afflicted  with  diarrhoea,  and  several  of  their 
children  had  died  from  the  effects  of  it. 

“On  the  morning  of  the  7th  we  struck  our  camp  and 
crossed  the  river  with  our  train,  descending  upon  the  south 
side  to  the  old  Kickapoo  camp,  where  we  remained  on  the 
day  following,  and  examined  the  creek  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Brazos. 

“The  valley  is  about  a mile  wide,  the  soil  productive 
and  well  watered,  but,  with  the  exception  of  mesquit  and 


KETUMSEE. 


203 


a few  hackberry-trees,  there  is  no  timber,  which  we  regard 
as  an  insuperable  objection  to  selecting  this  as  a reserve  for 
the  Indians.  There  are,  however,  many  quarries  of  the 
very  best  building  stone  in  the  valley,  which  might  serve 
a white  population  in  lieu  of  timber,  and  this  may  yet  be- 
come a superior  farming  locality.  The  deep  prolific  soil 
would  unquestionably  produce  bountiful  returns  of  any 
grain  suited  to  this  latitude,  and  would,  for  a long  term  of 
years,  require  no  fertilizing  auxiliaries. 

“ Our  course  on  the  following  day  was  southeast,  over  a 
mesquit  country  for  twelve  miles,  making  our  camp  on  a 
small  tributary  of  the  Brazos,  where  we  found  an  abund- 
ance of  good  living  water. 

“ Our  course  the  next  day  was  the  same,  over  a very  un- 
dulating and,  in  places,  broken  country,  traversed  by  sev- 
eral small  spring-branches  of  good  water,  between  which 
we  passed  through  groves  of  mesquit,  but  possessing  little 
other  interest  until  we  reached  a large  creek  running  to- 
ward the  Brazos,  which  winds  through  a broad  valley  in- 
closed with  hills  upon  either  side,  and  has  more  timber 
upon  its  borders  than  any  we  have  seen  above.  The  wa- 
ter is  good,  and  the  high  banks  have  sufficient  capacity  to 
contain  it  all  at  the  highest  stage.  This  valley  would  be  a 
good  position  for  an  Indian  reserve,  but  it  is  disposed  of 
and  not  now  vacant. 

“ Quite  a sensation  was  created  in  our  camp  during  the 
afternoon  by  several  strangers  whom  we  saw  in  the  dis- 
tance crossing  the  valley  and  coming  toward  us.  On  their 
arrival  they  proved  to  be  a Comanche  chief  (Ketumsee), 
with  two  of  his  wives,  who  had  come  to  pay  us  a visit.  He 
stated  that  they  had  received  a message  from  us  some  time 
since  requesting  the  chiefs  of  the  Southern  Comanches  to 
meet  us,  and  that  he  had  for  several  days  endeavored  to 
prevail  upon  some  of  the  principal  men  to  accompany  him, 


204 


CAPTAIN  VAN  BEUREN. 


but  they  all  made  objections,  and  he  finally  determined  to 
set  out  alone  in  search  of  us.  He  had  been  traveling  fast 
for  six  days,  and  had  only  struck  our  trail  the  day  previ- 
ous, and  he  was  apparently  very  glad  to  overtake  us.  We 
gave  him  a cordial  welcome,  and  told  him  we  would  make 
him  as  comfortable  as  possible  while  he  chose  to  remain 
our  guest.  He  is  a tall,  fine-looking  man,  about  fifty-five 
years  of  age,  with  an  open,  intelligent  countenance,  and  as- 
sures us  (which  of  course  we  are  expected  to  believe)  that 
he  is  the  best  friend  to  the  whites  in  the  Comanche  nation. 
He  acknowledges  that  there  are  others  who  profess  friend- 
ship, but  are  not  necessarily  sincere.  Taking  his  word  for 
it,  he  is  not  one  of  that  stamp.  He  stated  that  his  own 
band,  with  but  few  exceptions,  are  disposed  to  avail  them- 
selves of  the  present  opportunity  to  change  their  wander- 
ing life,  and  learn  to  live  like  their  more  civilized  brethren. 
He  also  says  that  they  are  as  yet  perfectly  ignorant  of  ev- 
ery thing  relating  to  agriculture,  and  it  will  be  necessary 
for  their  Great  Father  to  send  them  farmers  to  teach  them 
before  they  can  attempt  it. 

“ Ketumsee  brought  with . him  a letter  from  the  com- 
manding officer  at  Fort  Chadbourn,  in  which  he  communi- 
cated to  us  the  melancholy  intelligence  of  the  death  of 
Captain  Yan  Beuren,  and  expressing  his  opinion  that  some 
members  of  Ketumsee’s  band  were  implicated  in  the  out- 
rage. 

“ In  reply  to  our  interrogatories  upon  this  subject,  he, 
with  much  apparent  frankness  and  sincerity,  gave  us  his 
version  of  the  matter,  which  was,  in  substance,  as  follows : 

“He  asserts  that  nearly  all  the  depredations  which  are 
committed  by  the  Indians  in  Texas  can  be  traced  directly 
to  the  Northern  tribes.  That  all  the  depredating  parties 
are  organized  among  these  Indians,  but  that  occasionally 
one  of  them  passes  his  camp,  when  they  talk  to  his  young 


EARLY  BREAKFAST. 


205 


men,  and  endeavor  to  persuade  them  to  join  the  expedi- 
tion. That  he  has  always  given  them  good  advice,  en- 
treating them  to  refrain  from  making  war  upon  the  whites, 
and  showing  them  that  they  have  nothing  to  gain  by  so 
doing.  They  are  perfectly  aware  that  we  are  much  more 
powerful  than  themselves,  and  that  they  will  be  held  to  a 
strict  account  for  any  atrocities  they  may  commit.  He 
says  his  counsels  are  generally  listened  to  and  adopted  by 
his  warriors,  but  that  now  and  then  an  impetuous  young 
man,  more  anxious  than  others  for  distinction,  will  not  take 
his  advice  or  obey  his  commands,  and  goes  off  with  a war- 
party.  Such,  he  says,  might  have  been  the  case  in  the  re- 
cent affair  alluded  to,  and  one  of  his  band  may  have  been 
engaged  therein,  but  he  did  not  think  that  he  should  be 
held  responsible  for  such  acts,  after  he  had  done  all  in  his 
power  to  prevent  them.  He  states  farther,  that  those  of  his 
people  who  make  war  upon  the  whites  must  take  the  con- 
sequences to  themselves,  as  they  will  receive  no  counte- 
nance or  protection  from  him.  Whether  he  is  sincere  or 
not  in  what  he  has  stated  we  have  no  means  of  determin- 
ing, but  his  manner  certainly  impressed  us  with  confidence 
in  his  good  faith. 

“On  the  morning  of  the  11th  we  left  our  camp  before 
daylight,  and  traveled  ten  miles  in  the  same  course  as  the 
day  previous,  which  carried  us  into  the  valley  of  a fine 
stream  of  running  water,  with  several  varieties  of  timber 
upon  its  borders.  The  soil  in  the  valley  is  arable  in  the 
high est^  degree,  and  the  natural  resources  of  the  locality  ful- 
fill all  the  conditions  necessary  for  making  good  farms. 
This  section  is  appropriated,  and  not  available  for  the  In- 
dians. 

“On  the  following  morning  we  breakfasted  at  the  very 
unfashionable  hour  of  one  o’clock,  and  were  en  route  an 
hour  afterward  in  a southwest  course  toward  the  high  ridge 


206 


TOO  FAR  EAST. 


dividing  the  main  Brazos  from  the  Clear  Fork,  and  at  ten 
o’clock  crossed  the  road  leading  to  Dona  Ana,  encamping 
near  the  Fort  Belknap  and  Phantom  Hill  road,  at  a point 
ten  miles  east  of  the  crossing  of  the  Clear  Fork. 

.“It  was  our  intention  to  have  intersected  this  road  twen-  * 
ty  miles  farther  west,  but  our  guide  was  in  this  instance  at 
fault,  and  although  I repeatedly  expressed  my  opinion  that 
our  course  was  leading  us  too  far  east,  the  Delawares  be- 
lieved they  were  right,  and  we  suffered  them  to  proceed. 

“As  they  have  generally  been  very  correct  in  their  judg- 
ment regarding  courses  and  localities,  this  error  must  be  re- 
garded as  an  exception  to  the  general  rule.  They,  like  all 
their  brethren  with  whom  I have  been  associated,  are  more 
perfect  in  the  art  of  woodcraft  than  any  people  I have  ever 
known.  They  are  full  of  expedients  for  all  emergencies, 
and  their  great  experience  upon  the  prairies  renders  their 
services  highly  valuable. 

“Soon  after  crossing  the  California  road,  which  I had 
traveled  in  1849,  we  entered  a section  covered  with  large 
mesquit-trees,  beneath  which  were  innumerable  large  sun- 
flowers, spreading  over  the  entire  country  as  far  as  we  could 
see,  and  giving  it  a brilliant  yellow  hue. 

“These  continued  as  far  as  the  crossing  of  the  Clear  Fork 
of  the  Brazos,  upon  the  Phantom  Hill  road,  which  point 
we  reached  the  next  day  about  ten  o’clock  A.M. 

“A  change  takes  place  in  the  physiognomy  of  the  coun- 
try in  passing  from  the  main  or  Salt  Fork  to  the  beautiful 
Clear  Fork  of  the  Brazos,  which  seems  almost  magical. 

“We  here  find,  within  the  small  space  of  a day’s  travel, 
all  that  is  rude,  barren,  and  uninteresting  in  nature,  in  close 
proximity  to  that  which  is  most  pleasing  and  beautiful  in 
pastoral  scenery. 

“Nature  here  evinces,  in  this  sudden  transition,  a caprice 
that  I have  rarely  observed  in  contiguous  localities.  In- 


A CONTRAST. 


20' 


deed,  I doubt  if  two  streams  can  be'  found  in  widely  sepa- 
rated districts  that  present  a greater  contrast. 

“The  waters  of  the  former  stream  are  red,  heavily  loaded 
with  earthy  matter,  exceedingly  bitter  to  the  taste,  and  flow 
sluggishly  over  a bed  of  quicksand,  through  a valley  almost 
destitute  of  timber,  while  the  waters  of  the  latter  flow  rap- 
idly over  a bed  of  limestone  and  gravel  of  dazzling  white- 
ness, which  exhibits  their  purity  and  limpidity  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  smallest  objects  are  distinctly  visible  at  the 
depth  of  fifteen  feet,  while  the  banks  are  clothed  with  a va- 
riety of  trees  of  gigantic  dimensions,  covered  in  many  places 
with  parasitical  dependences,  which  overshadow  the  stream, 
and  are  reflected  from  the  surface  of  the  pure  water  in  the 
same  colors  that  they  present  when  directly  seen. 

“ The  valley  teems  with  a rich  and  verdant  herbage, 
which  exhibits  the  amazing  fecundity  of  the  soil,  and  every 
thing  here  reminds  us  of  all  that  is  most  picturesque  and 
charming  in  a highly  cultivated  country. 

“The  stream  is  here  twenty-five  yards  wide,  inclosed  upon 
each  side  by  high,  precipitous  banks,  which  contain  the  wa- 
ter at  the  highest  stages,  and  are  lined  with  pecan,  hackber- 
ry,  black  walnut,  and  other  trees,  which  in  many  places 
along  the  lowlands  spread  out  over  spaces  of  considerable 
extent,  constituting  a goodly  amount  of  timber  suitable  for 
building  purposes  or  fuel. 

“About  six  miles  below  the  crossing  the  oak-timbered 
lands  commence,  and  continue  along  the  course  of  the 
stream  upon  both  banks  to  its  confluence  with  the  main 
Brazos. 

“The  greater  portion  of  the  land  in  this  direction  is, 
however,  taken  up  by  individuals. 

“The  valley  of  the  Clear  Fork  is,  in  this  vicinity,  from 
one  quarter  of  a mile  to  two  miles  in  width,  and  is  every 
where  bountifully  supplied  with  cool  fresh  water  spring- 


208 


AGRICULTURE. 


brooks.  Limestone,  winch  is  here  the  predominating  rock, 
is  found  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and  is  better  adapted  for 
building  purposes  than  any  I have  ever  seen  before.  It 
has  been  shaped  out  by  natural  causes  into  cubes  and  other 
symmetrical  figures  of  convenient  dimensions,  with  smooth 
surfaces  and  perfect  angles  in  such  a manner  as  to  be  al- 
ready dressed  for  the  hands  of  the  mason. 

“We  were  much  rejoiced  on  arriving  here  to  find  evi- 
dences of  civilization  in  this  fat  Western  Indian  country. 

“ A former  agent  of  the  Comanches  (Colonel  J.  Stem) 
some  years  since  purchased  a tract  of  land  here,  upon  which 
he  determined  to  open  a farm. 

“ The  experiment  was  made  by  turning  over  the  sod  with 
a prairie  plow,  and  planting  the  seed  (corn  and  oats)  upon 
it.  No  other  labor  wa§  expended  in  the  way  of  hoeing  or 
plowing,  but  it  grew  up  most  luxuriantly,  and  produced  a 
very  bountiful  yield  of  grain. 

“ It  has  now  been  planted  for  three  successive  seasons, 
and  in  every  instance  with  good  results ; while  during  the 
same  period,  in  some  of  the  populated  sections  farther  east, 
the  crops  have  failed.  During  the  past  summer,  the  uni- 
versal drought  throughout  the  Southwestern  States  caused 
an  almost  entire  failure  in  the  corn  crop,  but  here  they  did 
not  suffer  in  the  least. 

“ Thus  far  the  cultivation -of  this  farm  has  realized  hand- 
some profits  to  its  proprietor,  and  he  finds  a ready  market 
for  his  produce  at  Fort  Belknap,  at  good  prices. 

“ These  facts  may  seem  foreign  to  the  subject  matter  of 
a report  of  this  character,  but  I have  brought  them  to  notice 
as  an  evidence  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  an  argument 
in  support  of  the  adaptation  of  this  locality  to  the  wants  of 
the  Indians. 

“ There  are  numerous  remains  of  old  Comanche  camps 
throughout  the  valley,  showing  that  this  has  for  many  years 


QUA-QUA-HO-NO — PAINT  CREEK. 


209 


been  a favorite  resort  for  them.  All  the  best  varieties  of 
the  gramma  and  mesquit  grasses  are  found  here,  and  ani- 
mals require  no  other  forage  during  the  winter  months ; in- 
deed, we  are  told  that  they  thrive  and  keep  in  better  condi- 
tion during  the  winter  than  in  the  summer. 

“ There  are  not  so  many  flies  here  as  in  the  more  heavily 
timbered  districts  to  the  east,  from  which  cattle  suffer  se- 
verely, and  I verily  believe  there  is  no  place  in  the  uni- 
verse better  suited  to  £ stock  raising’  than  this. 

“We  made  our  encampment  on  the  bank  of  the  Clear 
Fork,  at  a large  spring  of  cold,  delicious  water,  which  gush- 
ed forth  from  the  bank  about  half  a mile  below  Stem’s 
ranch.  As  there  is  a vacant  tract  of  land  of  sufficient  extent 
for  one  reservation  lying  upon  the  river  above  here,  we  de- 
termined to  make  a halt  for  the  purpose  of  examining  it,  and 
in  the  mean  time  send  Ketumsee  for  the  other  chiefs  of  the 
Southern  Comanches,  who  were  about  seventy  miles  off. 

“ On  the  following  morning  Major  Neighbors  and  my- 
self ascended  the  river  about  eight  miles  to  the  confluence 
of  another  tributary,  called  by  the  Comanches  Qua-qua-ho- 
no,  and  by  the  whites  Paint  Creek.  We  ascended  this 
branch  to  the  crossing  of  the  California  road,  where  we 
bivouacked  for  the  night,  and  I made  my  bed  under  the 
same  tree  where  I pitched  my  tent  in  1849.  It  was  here 
that  I met  Senaco’s  band  of  Comanches  upon  that  occasion. 

“We  turned  our  steps  toward  camp  at  an  early  hour  on 
the  next  day,  and  passed  down  upon  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  thus  making  a careful  examination  of  the  tract  of 
country  noted  as  vacant  upon  the  map  furnished  us  from 
the  General  Land  Office,  which  we  find  contains  a good 
share  of  rich  valley  land  along  the  borders  of  the  stream, 
well  suited  to  the  culture  of  grain  or  plants.  The  uplands 
adjoining  are  undulating,  with  rich  grassy  slopes  covered 
with  mesquit-trees,  well  adapted  for  pasturage. 

S* 


210 


SENACO. 


“ As  we  were  returning  to  camp  we  met  two  Indians  from 
Senaco’s  camp,  with  a message  from  him  desiring  us  to  put 
no  reliance  in  the  statements  of  Ketumsee,  as  he  did  not  au- 
thorize him  to  talk  for  the  nation. 

“Although  Senaco  is  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  the  rul- 
ing spirit  of  the  Southern  Comanches,  and  claims  and  holds 
that  position  in  their  united  deliberations,  yet  his  band  and 
that  of  Ketumsee  are  otherwise  separate  and  independent. 
Ketumsee  is  an  ambitious  and  astute  leader,  pursuing  a dis- 
creet and  complaisant  policy  in  the  government  of  his  fol- 
lowers calculated  to  enhance  his  popularity,  and  he  has  al- 
ready alienated  several  of  Senaco’s  band,  who  have  trans- 
ferred their  allegiance  to  him.  This  has  engendered  a feel- 
ing of  ill  will  and  jealousy  between  them  that  causes  each 
to  be  suspicious  of  the  motives  of  the  other,  and  it  was 
probably  this  that  induced  him  to  think  he  might  be  mis- 
represented to  us. 

“ Senaco,  with  several  sub-chiefs  and  a chief  of  the  Mid- 
dle Comanches,  having  arrived  on  the  20th,  we  assembled 
them  in  council  in  the  evening,  for  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining their  views  upon  the  subject  of  the  proposed  settle- 
ment. 

“ As  I had  just  come  from  Washington,  the  Indians  were 
anxious  I should  tell  them  what  their  Great  Father’s  wish- 
es were.  I accordingly  stated  to  them  that  I had  been  sent 
into  their  country  to  select  and  survey  a tract  of  land  suit- 
able for  cultivating  corn  and  raising  cattle ; that  their  agent 
had  been  appointed  to  assist  me  in  this  duty ; that  their 
Great  Father  at  Washington  was  sorry  to  see  his  Bed  chil- 
dren upon  the  prairies  suffering  for  food,  and  desired  to 
place  them  in  a situation  where  they  would  be  more  com- 
fortable. To  effect  this,  he  proposed  to  locate  them  upon 
the  lands  we  were  about  to  select,  and  have  them  taught  to 
cultivate  it. 


INDIAN  FARMERS. 


211 


“ In  illustrating  the  benefits  that  would  accrue  to  them, 
I remarked  that  the  buffaloes  had  within  a few  years  entire- 
ly left  their  hunting-grounds;  the  deer  and  other  game 
were  rapidly  disappearing  from  the  Plains,  and  in  a few 
years  they  and  their  children  would  be  compelled  to  resort 
to  some  other  life  than  the  chase  for  a subsistence. 

“ They  would  not  be  permitted  to  depredate  upon  their 
neighbors,  and  there  would  be  no  alternative  left  them  but 
that  of  tilling  the  soil. 

“ That  I had  for  twenty  years  lived  near  and  become  ac- 
quainted with  several  other  tribes  of  Indians  who  once  lived 
as  they  do,  upon  the  uncertain  results  of  the  chase,  but  by 
the  advice  of  the  whites  they  were  induced  to  give  up  their 
wandering  habits,  established  permanent  habitations,  and 
learned  to  plant  corn  and  raise  cattle,  and  were  now  living 
like  the  whites,  having  an  abundance  to  eat  and  wear  dur- 
ing the  entire  year ; and  I believed  it  was  only  necessary 
for  them  to  make  the  experiment  to  satisfy  themselves  that 
they  and  their  children  would  be  much  benefited. 

“I  told  them,  farther,  that  I presumed  the  President  would 
send  them  farmers  to  instruct  them,  and  supply  them  with 
agricultural  implements  and  provisions  to  subsist  them  un- 
til they  could  raise  their  first  crop.  That  their  agent  and 
the  military  authorities  stationed  near  them  would  see  that 
they  were  not  molested  by  the  whites,  and  that  their  rights 
were  respected  by  their  neighboring  brethren.  But  that, 
in  return  for  these  favors,  they  would  be  expected  to  obey 
all  the  orders  of  our  government,  and  remain  firm  friends 
to  the  whites. 

“ In  conclusion,  I desired  them  to  deliberate  well  upon 
what  I had  said,  and  when  they  had  done  so,  we  should  be 
glad  to  hear  what  they  had  decided  upon. 

“ After  conferring  together  for  some  time  in  a low  tone 
of  voice,  and  passing  around  the  pipe,  Senaco  rose,  and,  in 
a very  dignified  manner,  said : 


212 


SENACO’S  SPEECH. 


“ ‘ What  I am  about  to  say  is  the  sentiment  of  all  my 
people;  what  Senaco  says  the  Comanche  nation  say.  We 
have  heard  the  talk  which  our  Great  Father  has  sent  us 
by  our  friend  Captain  Marcy,  and  our  reply  to  it  will  be 
straightforward  and  the  truth. 

‘“We  very  well  remember  what  our  former  chief  “ Mo- 
ko-cho-pe”  told  us  before  he  died,  and  we  endeavor  to  car- 
ry out  his  wishes  after  he  is  gone  from  us.  He  advised  us 
to  take  the  counsels  of  the  whites  and  be  governed  by 
them,  and  they  would  benefit  us.  _ This  has  sunk  deep  into 
our  hearts,  and  we  shall  not  soon  forget  it. 

“‘We  are  very  glad  to  hear  the  talk  which  has  been 
sent  us  at  this  time ; it  makes  our  hearts  warm,  and  Ve  feel 
happy  that  our  Great  Father  remembers  his  poor  Eed  chil- 
dren in  the  prairies. 

“‘We  accept  the  talk,  and  shall  endeavor  to  accede  to 
all  that  is  required  of  us. 

“ ‘ I am  pleased  to  see  Captain  Marcy  once  more.  I well 
remember  meeting  him  five  years  since  near  this  very 
place,  and  I was  glad  when  I was  told  he  was  to  meet  us 
here.’ 

“ After  closing  his  remarks,  we  asked  them  many  ques- 
tions, the  answers  to  which  satisfied  us  that  a majority  of 
them  were  disposed  to  make  a trial  of  the  experiment  in 
farming;  yet,  as  it  is  altogether  a new  thing  to  them  (neither 
they  nor  their  forefathers  from  time  immemorial  having 
ever  planted  a seed),  some  of  them  are  evidently  fearful 
they  will  not  be  benefited  by  it,  and  they  asked  us  why 
the  government  was  so  anxious  to  have  them  abandon  their 
old  mode  of  life  at  this  particular  tim6. 

“They  desired  us  to  locate  their  land  upon  the  Clear 
Fork  of  the  Brazos,  where  they  have  been  in  the  habit  of 
spending  the  winter,  and  have  very  serious  objections  to 
settling  farther  north,  as  they  say  they  entertain  the  same 


PRESENTS. 


213 


fears  of  the  Northern  Indians  as  their  brethren  upon  the 
Brazos. 

“After  finishing  the  business  of  the  council,  Major  Neigh- 
bors distributed  among  them  the  presents  that  had  been 
purchased  for  them,  which,  with  some  rations  I issued  them, 
made  them  seemingly  very  happy,  and  their  camp  was  a 
scene  of  feasting  during  the  remainder  of  their  stay  with 
us.  They,  like  other  Indians,  are  extravagantly  fond  of 
corn,  and  the  chief  said  he  hoped  we  would  give  them  a 
good  allowance  of  this,  as  otherwise  he  would  not  be  able 
to  prevent  the  women  from  stealing  it  from  the  plantation 
in  our  vicinity. 

“ On  the  following  morning,  Major  Neighbors  and  my- 
self, leaving  the  command  upon  the  Clear  Fork,  went  in  to 
Fort  Belknap,  for  the  purpose  of  making  a more  minute 
examination  of  the  country  below  that  post  than  we  had 
been  enabled  to  do  previous  to  our  departure  upon  our  ex- 
pedition up  the  Brazos. 

“We  found  upon  our  map  a vacant  tract  of  country  ly- 
ing below  the  junction  of  the  Clear  Fork,  and  as  this  was 
the  only  available  locality  suited  to  the  wishes  of  the  Bra- 
zos Indians,  we  directed  our  attention  exclusively  to  it.  It 
is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which  divides  it  into 
two  equal  parts'  of  four  leagues  each,  and  is  in  every  par- 
ticular well  adapted  to  the  uses  of  two  separate  tribes. 

“ There  is  a large  body  of  valley  land  of  the  most  pre- 
eminent fertility  upon  either  side  of  the  stream,  extending 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  tract.  This,  upon  both 
sides,  is  bordered  by  mesquit  uplands,  covered  with  luxu- 
riant gramma  grasses,  affording  the  best  pasturage,  and  ad- 
joining this  a range  of  mountains,  covered  with  oak  timber 
extends  upon  each  side  to  the  north  and  south  lines,  bound- 
ing the  reservations. 

“ Each  tract  has  a river  front  of  upward  of  twenty-six 


214 


SUMMARY. 


miles,  affording  an  abundance  of  water  at  all  seasons  for 
their  animals.  Then  there  are  several  streams  of  fresh  wa- 
ter, fed  from  springs,  which  will  always  supply  them  with 
water  for  their  own  use.  The  pure  water  of  the  Clear  Fork 
(the  largest  confluent  in  this  section)  modifies  the  salts  in  the 
main  stream  to  such  a degree  that  animals  drink  it  readily 
and  thrive  upon  it. 


“ Summary. 

“A  brief  and  comprehensive  glance  at  the  general  phys- 
ical geography  of  this  section  of  country,  a portion  of  which 
has  been  noticed  in  detail  in  the  foregoing  narrative,  will 
disclose  the  considerations  which  influenced  us  in  making 
the  selections  for  the  Indian  reservations. 

“Before  entering  upon  the  discharge  of  the  duties  as- 
signed us  in  our  letters  of  instructions  from  the  Depart- 
ments of  War  and  Interior,  we  procured  from  the  General 
Land  Office  of  Texas  a map  of  that  portion  of  the  state  to 
which  our  attention  was  directed,  up6n  which  all  the  va- 
cant domain  was  indicated.  A perusal  of  the  foregoing 
journal  will  show  that  a great  share  of  the  most  desirable 
lands,  bordering  the  streams  in  the  country  over  which  we 
passed,  has  been  disposed  of  by  the  state,  and  was  not  then 
available  for  Indian  purposes.  We,  however,  found  many 
spots  where  all  the  natural  requisites  were  at  hand  for  mak- 
ing good  farms,  but,  in  almost  every  instance,  these  vacant 
tracts  were  not  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  constitute  reserva- 
tions of  the  dimensions  required. 

“From  the  examination  I had  before  made  of  that  por- 
tion of  Northern  Texas  lying  upon  the  waters  of  Red, 
Witchita,  and  the  Canadian  Rivers,  west  of  the  100th  me- 
ridian of  latitude,  I was  of  the  opinion  that  a much  better 
locality  could  be  found  near  the  Big  Witchita  or  the  Bra- 
zos Rivers. 


GENERAL  FEATURES. 


215 


“The  different  confluents  of  Little  Witchita  are  bordered 
by  lands  which  are  very  highly  productive  to  their  very 
sources  ; and  in  that  portion  of  the  valley  near  Red  River, 
woodland  is  sufficiently  plenty  for  the  purposes  of  the 
farmer,  but  this  is  appropriated,  and  in  that  section  of  the 
valley  which  is  vacant  there  is  a deficiency  of  timber.  As 
I have  observed  before,  however,  the  fine  building-stone 
found  throughout  the  valley  may  answer  the  purposes  of  a 
white  population,  and  this  may  yet  offer  sufficient  induce- 
ments to  attract  settlers. 

“The  country  embraced  within  the  valley  of  the  Big 
Witchita  presents  in  its  physical  aspect  two  remarkable  di- 
visions, distinct  belts  as  it  were,  extending  along  the  course 
of  the  stream,  with  entirely  different  topographical  features. 
Commencing  at  Red  River,  and  ascending  the  stream  for 
seventy-five  miles,  the  valley,  which  is  from  one  to  five 
miles  wide,  is  smooth  and  regular,  the  soil  highly  fertile, 
and  covered  with  a luxuriant  vegetation.  And  upon  the 
borders  of  this  savanna  a chain  of  bluffs  terminates  the  ele- 
vated prairie  lands  adjoining,  from  whence  issue  many 
springs  of  pure,  wholesome  water ; but,  with  the  exception 
of  a few  cottonwood-trees  upon  the  immediate  borders  of 
the  river,  there  is  no  woodland  throughout  this  section. 

“ The  upper  division  of  the  river  finds  its  way  through  a 
valley  more  contracted  than  that  spoken  of,  and  the  soil  is 
much  more  sterile,  being  a mixture  of  clay  and  sand  unsuit- 
ed to  the  rapid  development  of  vegetation.  The  bluffs  rise 
from  the  base  to  a much  greater  height,  and  approach  near- 
er the  river  bank,  and  are  covered  with  a variety  of  stunted 
red  cedar  bushes,  indicating  a great  increase  in  the  general 
elevation  of  the  country.  The  surrounding  plains  assume 
a lonely,  melancholy,  and  arid  aspect,  producing  in  the  mind 
a sadness  which  contrasts  strikingly  with  the  feeling  inspired 
upon  the  most  unimpressible  temperament  by  the  beauty  of 


216 


THE  MOUNTAINS. 


a landscape  embellished  with  verdant  woodlands  and  smil- 
ing prairies,  garnished  with  multitudes  of  gorgeous  flowers. 

“ Above  the  sources  of  the  Big  Witchita  a range  of 
mountains  stretch  away  to  the  south  for  about  forty  miles, 
embracing  all  the  principal  upper  confluents  of  the  Brazos. 
These  mountains  are  composed  principally  of  gypsum  and 
sandstone,  and  stand  out  in  bold  relief  upon  the  vast  prairie 
lands  surrounding.  They  are  clothed  with  a scanty  growth 
of  dwarf  cedar  and  cacti  toward  the  bases,  while  the  sum- 
mits are  denuded  of  all  vegetation,  which,  with  the  rugged 
disposition  of  the  strata,  adds  to  the  general  imposing  effect 
upon  the  beholder,  and  strangely  contrasts  with  the  smiling 
aspect  of  the  prairies  that  sweep  off  to  the  east  and  south 
from  below. 

“The  gypsum  rock,  which  imparts  to  all  the  water  in 
this  section  those  peculiar  and  unpalatable  properties  that 
have  been  mentioned,  will  render  this  country  uninhabita- 
ble by  man  for  any  great  length  of  time. 

“ On  leaving  these  dreary  solitudes  and  turning  to  the 
east  down  the  right  bank  of  the  Brazos,  we  soon  enter  a 
much  more  inviting  section  of  country.  We  here  encount- 
er several  tributaries  of  the  Clear  Fork,  affording  pure 
water,  and  the  geological  formation  rapidly  changes.  The 
gypsum  rock  is  only  seen  in  detached  masses,  and  its  place 
is  soon  entirely  occupied  by  lime  and  sandstone. 

“ Although  in  our  expedition  to  the  sources  of  the  Big 
Witchita  and  the  Brazos  we  were  unsuccessful  in  discover- 
ing a suitable  location  for  the  Indians,  yet  it  is  thought  that 
the  results  of  our  labors  will  not  be  entirely  devoid  of  util- 
ity or  interest.  The  geographical  knowledge  we  have  ob- 
tained of  this  hitherto  unexplored  region  enables  me  to 
complete  a sketch  of  the  only  tributaries  of  the  Brazos  that 
were  before  unknown.  It  will  be  observed  that  upon  the 
map  accompanying  my  report,  a large  stream  (the  Double 


AN  IMAGINARY  RIVER. 


217 


Mountain  Fork  of  the  Brazos),  which  has  before  been  noted 
upon  all  the  maps  of  this  section,  is  wanting.  This  imag- 
inary river  has  heretofore  been  supposed  to  enter  the  main 
Brazos  about  thirty  miles  above  Fort  Belknap,  and  is  even 
found  delineated  upon  the  surveyor’s  maps  that  were  sent  us 
from  the  General  Land  Office  of  Texas,  with  surveys  noted 
upon  it.  On  our  return  from  the  head  waters  of  the  Bra- 
zos we  traveled  down  the  south  bank  of  the  stream  until 
we  arrived  within  forty  miles  of  Fort  Belknap,  when  we 
struck  south  for  the  Clear  Fork,  expecting  to  cross  the 
Double  Mountain  Fork  before  we  reached  it,  but,  to  our 
surprise,  the  Clear  Fork  was  the  first  stream  of  magnitude 
we  encountered,  so  that  the  Double  Mountain  Fork  has  no 
existence. 

“ On  my  return  from  New  Mexico  in  1849, 1 struck  quite 
a large  stream  running  to  the  east  about  thirty-five  miles 
west  of  the  crossing  of  Paint  Creek.  I was  then  given  to 
understand  by  my  Delaware  guide  that  this  was  the  ‘Double 
Mountain  Fork  of  the  Brazos,’  but  our  observations  now 
prove  it^to  have  been  Paint  Creek. 

“ The  geological  information  we  have  secured  is  also  re- 
garded as  important. 

“ I had  upon  my  former  expeditions  traced  a great  belt 
of  gypsum  from  the  Canadian  River  across  the  Plains  in  a 
southwesterly  course  for  several  hundred  miles  toward  the 
Rio  Grande. 

“We  have  traced  the  continuation  of  this  formation 
where  it  intersects  the  valley  of  the  Big  Witchita,  and 
thence  across  the  different  branches  of  the  Brazos.  Near 
the  head  of  the  Brazos  it  presents  a solid  stratum  of  the 
enormous  thickness  of  five  hundred  feet.  It  occurs  in  va- 
rious shades  of  purity,  from  the  common  plaster  of  Paris 
to  pure  selenite,  quite  similar  in  appearance  to  that  upon 

the  Red  and  Canadian  Rivers. 

T 


218 


THE  MESQUIT-TREE. 


“ In  the  journeys  I had  made  before  upon  the  Plains  I 
had  observed  the  mesquit-tree  extending  over  vast  tracts 
of  country,  and  I had  noticed  some  of  its  useful  properties, 
such  as  its  durability  and  its  adaptation  for  fuel,  but  I was 
never  so  fully  impressed  with  its  many  valuable  qualities 
as  during  the  past  summer. 

“It  covered  a great  portion  of  the  country  over  which 
we  traveled,  and  our  attention  was  especially  attracted  to 
an  exudation  of  gum  from  its  trunk  and  branches,  which, 
upon  tasting,  we  pronounced  to  be  closely  allied  to  the  gum- 
arabic  of  commerce. 

“This  tree  was  first  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  public  by 
Dr.  Edwin  James,  Assistant  Surgeon  United  States  Army, 
who  met  with  it  in  his  trip  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  with 
Colonel  Long,  forty -seven  years  ago.  It  is  a variety  of  the 
acacia,  and  possesses  many  properties  in  common  with  other 
species  of  that  group  of  plants. 

“What  the  exact  geographical  range  of  the  tree  is  we 
are  as  yet  (with  a great  portion  of  our  territory  unexplored) 
unable  to  define ; my  own  observations,  however,  warrant 
me  in  asserting  confidently  that  it  is  only  indigenous  to  the 
great  plains  of  the  West  and  South,  extending  far  beyond 
the  limits  of  most  other  varieties  of  trees,  and  it  would 
seem  from  its  locality  to  have  been  planted  by  an  all- wise 
Providence  with  special  reference  to  the  wants  of  the  occu- 
pants of  a section  of  country  suitable  to  the  growth  of  no 
other  tree. 

“ Between  the  twenty-sixth  and  thirty-sixth  parallels  of 
north  latitude,  within  the  ninety-seventh  and  one  hundred 
and  third  meridians  of  longitude,  it  is  found  abundantly, 
often  constituting  vast  tracts  of  woodland,  and  is,  indeed, 
almost  the  only  silva  of  the  section.  It  is  also  found  in 
very  many  places  between  the  Rocky  Mountain  range  and 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  appears  to  flourish  better  and  to 


VALUE  OF  MESQUIT. 


219 


attain  greater  dimensions  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Gila  River 
than  in  any  other  locality  I have  heard  of  west  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte. 

“ In  going  north  from  the  parallel  of  thirty-three  degrees 
(in  the  direction  I have  traveled)  the  trees  gradually  be- 
come smaller  and  smaller,  until  at  last  they  are  mere  bushes; 
and,  finally,  on  arriving  near  the  latitude  of  thirty-six  de- 
grees they  entirely  disappear. 

“The  vast  geographical  range  of  the  mesquit-tree,  and 
its  many  useful  properties,  some  of  which  will  be  enumer-  ^ 
ated  in  the  sequel,  renders  it  available,  and  I have  no  doubt 
it  is  destined  to  become  highly  important  to  the  future  oc- 
cupants of  a large  section  of  our  new  territory. 

“ It  is  a tree  of  short,  scrubby  growth,  the  stock  averag- 
ing from  four  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  and  seldom  at- 
taining a height,  including  its  top,  of  more  than  twenty  feet. 
The  limbs  are  short,  crooked,  and  thickly  studded  with  long, 
sharp  thorns ; the  leaves  pinnated,  and  the  leaflets  are  long 
and  elliptical ; the  bark  is  a dark  gray,  resembling  that  of 
the  peach-tree ; the  wood  coarse-grained,  very  brittle ; and 
the  heart,  which  constitutes  nearly  the  entire  tree,  somewhat 
like  the  darker  varieties  of  mahogany. 

“ It  burns  readily,  even  when  green,  with  a bright,  cheer- 
ful flame,  leaving  a residue  of  coals  almost  as  perfect  in  form 
as  the  original  wood,  making  a very  hot  fire,  and  is,  indeed, 
the  best  fuel  I have  ever  seen,  hickory  not  excepted. 

“ It  possesses  durability  in  an  eminent  degree,  and  is,  in 
consequence,  much  used  for  building  in  Southern  Texas 
and  Mexico.  As  an  evidence  of  its  lasting  qualities,  I have 
seen  pieces  of  the  wood,  in  a perfect  state  of  preservation, 
imbedded  in  the  stones  of  an  old  ruin  upon  the  Nueces 
River,  in  Texas,  which  must  have  been  exposed  to  the 
weather  for  very  many  years,  as  the  stones  had  become 
partially  disintegrated,  and  were  crumbling  away  with  age, 
while  the  wood  remained  sound. 


220 


st.  John’s  bread. 


“ The  mesquit  is  often  found  upon  the  most  elevated  and 
arid  prairies,  far  from  water-courses,  but  will,  I believe,  only 
grow  upon  soil  of  the  first  quality ; and  so  well  is  this  fact 
established,  that  the  mesquit  groves,  or  ‘flats,’ as  they  are 
called,  are  sought  after  in  Western  Texas  as  the  most  de- 
sirable spots  for  cultivation,  and  they  have  thus  far  proved 
exceedingly  productive.  The  trees  stand  at  wide  intervals, 
upon  ground  covered  with  a dense  carpet  of  verdure,  and  a 
stranger,  on  approaching  one  of  the  groves,  can  not  resist 
the  impression  that  he  has  a peach  orchard  before  him,  so 
striking  is  the  resemblance.  The  blossoms  put  forth  in 
June,  and  a fruit  appears  in  the  form  of  a long,  slender 
bean,  from  which  the  Mexicans  make  a cooling  and  pleasant 
beverage.  These  beans  ripen  in  September,  when  they  fall 
to  the  ground,  and  afford  sustenance  to  wild  horses,  deer, 
antelope,  and  turkeys. 

“The  pod  is  highly  saccharine  and  nutritious,  and  is 
used  for  food  by  the  natives  of  the  Plains,  as  well  as  those 
west  of  the  Eocky  Mountains.  The  Indians  upon  the  Col- 
orado and  Gila  Eivers  pulverize  and  press  them  into  cakes, 
which  are  said  to  be  quite  palatable. 

“ They  make  most  excellent  forage  for  horses  and  mules, 
and  there  are  many  instances  where  they  have  sustained 
those  of  the  California  emigrants  upon  some  of  those  long 
‘journadas,’ or  sandy  and  barren  deserts,  toward  the  Pacific. 

“A  tree  very  similar  to  the  mesquit,  ‘called  the  carob- 
tree,’  is  found  in  the  south  of  Spain.  It  affords  a bean  like 
the  mesquit,  which  is  imported  under  the  name  of  ‘ Algaro- 
ba  bean.’  It  is  used  for  food  in  Spain,  and  is  there  called 
‘ St.  John’s  Bread.’  It  was  this  bean  that  often  constituted 
the  only  forage  of  the  English  cavalry  horses  during  the 
war  of  1811  and  1812. 

“The  species  of  acacia  from  which  the  gum-arabic  of 
commerce  is  obtained  (the  acacia  vera)  is  a hard,  withered- 


MESQUIT  GUM. 


221 


looking  tree,  with  a crooked  stem  and  gray  bark,  very  like, 
in  external  appearance,  the  mesquit. 

“ The  gum  of  the  mesquit  exudes  from  the  trunk  and 
branches  wherever  there  is  an  abrasion  in  the  bark.  It  is 
also  produced  when  a cut  is  made  with  a sharp  instrument, 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  sap  is  drawn  from  the  sugar  ma- 
ple. It  commences  exuding  in  July,  and  continues  until 
the  last  of  September.  It  is,  at  first,  in  a translucent  and 
nearly  fluid  state,  but  soon  hardens  by  exposure  to  the  sun 
and  air ; and  if  there  is  no  rain  (and  there  seldom  is  any  at 
this  season),  it  forms  in  globules  upon  the  bark,  and  can  be 
collected  in  large  quantities ; and  I have  no  doubt  it  will 
eventually  become  an  important  article  of  commerce,  an- 
swering all  the  purposes  of  the  gum-arabic  of  the  shops. 

“ Specimens  of  the  gum  collected  by  us  were  submitted 
to  Dr.  John  Torrey,  who  kindly  returned  to  me  the  follow- 
ing remarks  upon  the  subject,  which,  coming  from  so  dis- 
tinguished a source,  will  be  read  with  interest : 

“ ‘ The  collection  of  plants  made  by  Dr.  James  in  his  expe- 
dition to  the  Bocky  Mountains  was  submitted  to  me  for  ex- 
amination, an  account  of  which,  with  descriptions  of  all  the 
new  species  that  it  contained,  I published  in  the  “Annals  of 
the  New  York  Lyceum  of  Natural  History”  in  1827  (voL 
ii.,  p.  161-254).  The  mesquit  was  found  to  be  a new  spe- 
cies of  the  genus  Prosopis  of  Linnaeus,  to  which  I gave  the 
name  of  P.  gland ulosa,  and  a figure  of  the  plant  accompa- 
nied the  description.  The  eminent  botanist,  Mr.  Bentham, 
who  has  made  a special  study  of  the  Leguminosa,  considers 
the  section  Algaroba  of  Prosopis  as  a distinct  genus.  His 
views  were  adopted  in  the  “ Flora  of  North  America”  by 
Dr.  Gray  and  myself,  so  that  the  plant  is  there  described  as 
“ Algaroba  glandulosa”  (Torr.  and  Gray,  H.  N.  Amer.,  i.,  p. 
399).  Twelve  or  more  other  species  are  natives  of  Mexico 
and  the  western  coast  of  South  America.  All  of  them  bear 
a long,  compressed  pod,  which  is  filled  with  a sweet,  nutri- 

rpjf 


222 


DR.  TORREY’S  OPINION. 


tious  pulp.  These  pods  were  used  for  food  by  Major  Long’s 
party.  They  constitute,  also,  a most  valuable  fodder  for 
animals. 

“ ‘ For  several  years  I have  known  that  a gum,  allied  to 
the  gum-arabic,  exuded  from  the  trees,  especially  where 
they  were  wounded.  Specimens  of  the  gum  were  long  ago 
brought  to  me  by  different  travelers  from  New  Mexico  and 
Western  Texas,  but  I never  examined  the  substance  par- 
ticularly till  I received  a supply  of  it  from  you  a few  days 
ago.  At  your  request  I submitted  it  to  examination,  and 
compared  it  with  the  well-known  gum-arabic. 

“ £ The  mesquit  or  algaroba  gum  is  intermediate  in  ap- 
pearance between  the  darker  kinds  of  gum-arabic  and  cher- 
ry-tree gum.  Portions  of  it,  however,  are  almost  colorless, 
and  have  the  roughish  surface  and  cracked  structure  that 
belong  to  the  better  kinds  of  gum-arabic.  The  portion  that 
you  sent  me  was  probably  not  gathered  with  particular  care, 
for  some  of  it  has  particles  of  bark  attached  to  the  lumps, 
or  disseminated  through  them. 

“ ‘ On  testing  the  solubility  of  the  gum  in  cold  water,  it 
dissolved  as  readily  as  gum-arabic,  and  the  mucilage,  though 
of  a brownish  tint,  was  destitute  of  bitterness  or  other  un- 
pleasant flavor,  and  it  is  strongly  adhesive.  When  the  so- 
lution is  poured  into  a shallow  vessel,  and  left  to  spontane- 
ous evaporation,  it  leaves  the  gum  in  transparent  brilliant 
plates,  having  all  the  qualities  of  the  original  gum.’  ‘If  the 
gum  can  not  be  gathered  without  a small  portion  of  dirt 
being  entangled  in  it,  the  best  plan  would  be  to  dissolve  it 
in  water,  and  let  the  dirt  subside,  or  separate  it  by  strain- 
ing. The  mucilage  might  then  be  dried,  the  thin  plates  of 
gum  bleached  in  the  sun,  and  afterward  pulverized. 

“‘You  are  perhaps  aware  that  the  trees  affording  the 
mesquit  gum  and  gum-arabic  belong  to  the  same  natural 
group  of  plants,  so  it  is  not  remarkable  that  they  so  strong- 
ly resemble  each  other.’  ” 


THE  COMANCHE  RESERVATION. 


223 


As  the  history  of  the  experiment  of  civilizing  the  Coman- 
ches  may  possess  some  interest  to  many  of  my  readers,  I re- 
mark, in  concluding  my  account  of-these  reservations,  that 
Ketumsee  and  his  followers  settled  upon  the  lands  designed 
for  them,  and  under  the  able  superintendence  of  their  agent, 
Major  Neighbors,  and  the  instruction  of  farmers  provided 
by  the  United  States  government,  they  made  commendable 
progress  in  the  rudiments  of  agriculture.  Their  women 
and  children  worked  in  the  fields  and  were  cultivating  good 
crops  of  grain,  and  their  condition  was  undergoing  such 
rapid  improvement  when  contrasted  with  their  former  rov- 
ing life  and  their  precarious  means  of  gaining  a livelihood, 
that  there  is  no  question  in  my  mind,  if  they  had  been  un- 
molested, the  next  generation  would  have  found  them  agri- 
culturists and  not  hunters.  But  this  desirable  end  was  not 
destined  to  be  consummated. 

After  they  had  made  some  considerable  improvements 
upon  their  lands,  their  value  was  so  much  enhanced  that 
they  became  an  object  worthy  the  attention  of  those  lawless 
border  robbers  that  inhabit  Western  Texas,  and,  as  I was 
informed,  they  organized  a large  force,  went  to  the  reserva- 
tion, and,  without  the  slightest  provocation  from  the  In- 
dians, attacked  and  indiscriminately  murdered  many  of  the 
men,  women,  and  children.  Those  that  escaped  the  foul 
massacre  made  their  way  into  the  Plains,  and  this  pretty 
much  broke  up  the  settlement. 

Major  Neighbors,  who  subsequently  commented  severely 
upon  the  turpitude  of  the  act,  was  shortly  afterward  shot  in 
the  back  by  one  of  the  cowardly  assassins,  and  died  in  a 
short  time. 

Senaco  and  his  band  never  settled  upon  the  reservation, 
but  made  war  upon  the  whites  for  attempting  to  coerce 
them  into  the  measure,  and  they  continue  to  roam  over  the 
Plains  to  this  day. 


224 


WINTER  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

WINTER  EXPEDITION  OYER  THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

Winter  Expedition  over  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Objects  of  the  Expedition. 
— General  Scott’s  Opinions. — Leaving  Fort  Bridger. — Desertion  of  Indian 
Guide. — Descending  Mountain. — Singular  Corral. — Reach  Grand  River. 
— Ute  Indians. — Commence  the  Ascent  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. — Snow. 
— Cache  Luggage. — Mules  giving  out  and  dying. — Provisions  consumed. 
— Commence  eating  Mules. — Ptarmigan. — Getting  lost. — New  Guide. — 
Excellent  Conduct  of  the  Soldiers.  — Destitute  Condition.  — Bivouac. — 
Reach  the  Summit  of  the  Mountains. — Send  Messengers  to  Fort  Massa- 
chusetts.— Return  of  the  Messengers. — Joy  of  the  Party. — Mariano. — 
Overeating. — Arrival  at  Fort  Massachusetts. — Arrival  at  Taos. — Compar- 
ative Qualities  of  different  Animals  in  Snow. 

During  the  month  of  November,  1857,  while  our  troops 
were  encamped  at  Fort  Bridger,  in  Utah  Territory,  I was 
ordered,  with  a command  of  forty  enlisted  men,  to  cross  the 
mountains  by  the  most  direct  route  into  New  Mexico,  and 
procure  supplies. 

As  but  little,  if  any  thing,  is  known  to  the  public  about 
this  expedition,  and  as  a great  deal  has  been  written  and 
said  concerning  others  of  a similar  character,  which,  per- 
haps, were  of  no  more  importance  in  their  results  than  this, 
I trust  that  a brief  account  of  some  of  the  most  prominent 
incidents  connected  with  that  journey  will  not  prove  unin- 
teresting. 

The  objects  of  this  march  are  set  forth  in  the  following 
extracts  from  the  report  of  the  Secretary  of  War  for  1858. 
He  says:  “The  destruction  of  our  trains  by  the  Mormons, 
and  the  disasters  which  necessarily  flowed  from  it,  drove 


REPORT  OF  SECRETARY  OF  WAR. 


225 


General  Johnston  to  the  necessity  of  sending  a detachment 
of  men  to  New  Mexico  for  supplies  essential  to  enable  him 
to  prosecute  his  march  with  all  practicable  dispatch. 

“ This  expedition  was  intrusted  to  Captain  R.  B.  Marcy, 
of  the  5th  Infantry ; and,  without  intending  to  make  an  in- 
vidious comparison  between  the  services  of  officers  where 
all  are  meritorious,  it  is  but  just  to  bring  the  conduct  of 
this  officer  and  his  command  to  your  especial  notice.  It 
may  be  safely  affirmed  that,  in  the  whole  catalogue  of  haz- 
ardous expeditions  scattered  so  thickly  through  the  history 
of  our  border  warfare,  filled  as  many  of  them  are  with  ap- 
palling tales  of  privation,  hardship,  and  suffering,  not  one 
surpasses  this,  and  in  some  particulars  it  has  been  hardly 
equaled  by  any. 

“Captain  Marcy  left  Fort  Bridger  on  the  24th  day  of 
November,  1857,  with  a command  of  forty  enlisted  men, 
and  twenty-five  mountain  men,  besides  packers  and  guides. 
Their  course  lay  through  an  almost  trackless  wilderness, 
over  lofty  and  rugged  mountains,  without  a pathway  or 
human  habitation  to  guide  or  direct,  in  the  very  depth  of 
winter,  through  snows,  for  many  miles  together,  reaching 
to  the  depth  of  five  feet.  Their  beasts  of  burden  very  rap- 
idly perished  until  very  few  were  left ; their  supplies  gave 
out;  their  luggage  was  abandoned;  they  were  driven  to 
subsist  upon  the  carcasses  of  their  dead  horses  and  mules ; 
all  the  men  became  greatly  emaciated ; some  were  frost- 
bitten, yet  not  one  murmur  of  discontent  escaped  the  lips 
of  a single  man.  Their  mission  was  one  of  extreme  im- 
portance to  the  movements  of  the  army,  and  great  disaster 
might  befall  the  command  if  these  devoted  men  failed  to 
bring  succor  to  the  camp.  They  had  one  and  all  volun- 
teered for  this  service,  and,  although  they  'might  freeze  or 
die,  yet  they  would  not  complain. 

“ After  a march  of  fifty -one  days,  they  emerged  from  the 


226 


THANKS  OF  GENERAL-IN-CHIEF. 


forests,  and  found  themselves  at  Fort  Massachusetts,  in 
New  Mexico. 

“During  their  whole  march  Captain  Marcy  shared  all 
the  privations  of  the  common  soldier,  marching,  sleeping, 
and  eating  as  they  did.” 

After  my  return  to  Fort  Bridger,  I had  the  honor  of  re- 
ceiving the  following  letter : 

“Head-quarters  of  the  Army,  New  York,  May  29,  1858. 

“ Sir, — I am  instructed  by  the  general-in-chief  to  say  to 
you,  in  reply  to  your  letter  of  the  29th  of  March  (reporting 
my  movements),  that  the  unconquerable  energy,  patience, 
and  devotedness  to  duty  displayed  by  yourself  and  the 
command  intrusted  to  your  skillful  guidance  and  direction, 
have  been  highly  appreciated  by  himself,  and  that  the  un- 
usual sufferings  and  hard  labor  to  which  the  troops  were 
exposed  in  accomplishing  their  arduous  march  in  the  depth 
of  winter  has  been  made  known  to  the  whole  country  by 
the  public  press.  * * * * The  general-in-chief  will 

not  fail  to  commend  your  admirable  conduct  to  the  special 
notice  of  the  War  Department. 

“ I am,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  “Geo.  W.  Lay,  Lieut.  Col.  and  A.  D.  C. 

“Captain  R.  B.  Marcy,  5th  Infantry.” 

When  we  left  Fort  Bridger  there  was  only  six  inches  of 
snow  on  the  ground,  and  my  guides,  as  well  as  other  mount- 
ain men,  were  of  opinion  that  we  should  not,  at  that  early 
season,  find  over  two  feet  of  snow  upon  the  summit  of  the 
mountains.  They  also  believed  that  we  could  make  the 
trip  to  Fort  Massachusetts,  New  Mexico,  in  twenty-five 
days;  but,  to  make  sure  of  having  enough  provisions,  I 
deemed  it  wise  to  take  thirty  days’  supply,  which,  with  our 
luggage,  was  packed  upon  sixty -six  mules. 


THE  START. 


227 


After  bidding  adieu  to  our  friends  at  Fort  Bridger,  we 
proceeded  down  Henry’s  Fork  to  its  confluence  with  Green 
Biver,  where  we  forded  the  latter  stream,  and  followed  a 
trail  that  led  us  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  dividing  Green 
from  Grand  River.  Here  we  found  three  lodges  of  Digger 
Utes,  and  engaged  one  of  them  to  act  as  guide  over  the 
mountain.  Our  first  day’s,  march  from  here  up  a very  cir- 
cuitous canon  brought  us  to  the  top  of  this  mountain,  where 
we  found  the  snow  nearly  two  feet  in  depth.  We  en- 
camped at  the  head  of  the  canon,  and,  after  supper,  our  In- 
dian guide-  came  to  me  and  expressed  some  doubt  as  to 
whether  we  were  in  possession  of  the  articles  he  had  been 
promised  for  his  services,  and  Jim  Baker,  the  interpreter, 
advised  that  they  should  be  shown  to  him.  Accordingly, 
the  knife,  powder,  lead,  and  paint  were  spread  out  before 
him ; and,  although  I rather  disapproved  the  proceeding, 
Baker  allowed  him  to  take  possession  of  them. 

Before  I lay  down  for  the  night  I posted  sentinels  around 
the  camp,  and  directed  the  guard  to  keep  careful  watch 
upon  the  Indian.  About  midnight  I was  awakened  by 
the  sergeant  of  the  guard,  who  reported  that  he  believed 
our  Indian  guide  intended  deserting,  as  he  had  placed  his 
rifle  and  all  his  other  effects  in  such  a position  that  he 
could  seize  them  instantly,  and  he  appeared  to  be  watch- 
ing for  an  opportunity  to  break  away.  I repeated  to  the 
sergeant  the  order  to  guard  him  closely,  and  directed  him, 
if  he  made  any  attempt  at  deserting  us,  to  seize  and  tie 
him. 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  the  sergeant  returned  with  the 
intelligence  that,  in  spite  of  all  his  vigilance,  the  fellow  had 
broken  away  from  the  guard  and  escaped.  I regretted 
this,  because  we  wanted  his  services  to  pilot  us  across  the 
summit  of  the  mountain  on  the  following  day.  We  were 
obliged,  however,  to  set  out  without  him,  and,  shortly  after 


228 


A NATURAL  CORRAL. 


emerging  from  the  canon,  found  ourselves  upon  a level 
plateau  about  ten  miles  wide.  Our  track  led  us  across  this 
elevated  table-land,  which  we  found  terminating  in  a tow- 
ering and  almost  perpendicular  cliff  or  bluff,  bordering  the 
valley  of  Grand  River,  and  some  two  thousand  feet  above 
it.  On  reaching  this  lofty  escarpment,  it  did  not  seem  pos- 
sible that  our  mules  could  descend  it,  and,  indeed,  I had 
been  previously  told  that  there  was  but  one  place  for  fifty 
miles  along  this  cliff  where  the  declivity  was  practicable 
for  animals,  and  this  was  at  a point  where  the  Indians  had 
cut  out  a narrow  path  along  the  face  of  the  bluff,  winding 
around  over  rocks  and  along  the  brinks  of  deep  chasms. 

We  bivouacked  in  the  snow  directly  upon  the  verge  of 
this  precipice,  where  we  had  a magnificent  view  of  the  val- 
ley of  Grand  River  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  beyond.  Im- 
mediately after  we  halted  I sent  out  Baker  to  search  for 
the  trail  leading  into  the  valley,  and  it  was  not  until  late  at 
night  that  he  discovered  it.  In  the  morning  we  entered  the 
tortuous  defile  and  commenced  the  descent,  which  we  found 
exceedingly  precipitous  and  slippery.  Our  pack  mules 
had  great  difficulty  in  keeping  their  footing.  Occasionally 
one  of  them  would  fall,  and,  with  his  pack,  roll  over  and 
over  for  thirty  or  forty  feet  down  the  rocks,  until  he  was 
brought  up  by  a tree  or  projecting  crag.  At  length,  how- 
ever, after  numerous  tumbles  and  somersaults,  we  reached 
the  valley  at  the  base,  and,  to  our  surprise,  found  the  grass 
green,  and  not  a particle  of  snow  upon  the  ground,  while, 
as  I said  before,  directly  over  our  heads,  upon  the  summit 
of  the  plateau,  it  lay  two  feet  deep.  We  discovered  at  this 
place  a naturally  inclosed  pasture,  containing  about  two 
hundred  acres,  surrounded  by  an  almost  perpendicular  trap 
wall  some  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  with  but  one 
opening  of  not  more  than  a hundred  yards  wide.  Our  ani- 
mals were  all  turned  into  this  natural  corral , and  a herds- 


DIGGER  INDIANS. 


229 


man  stationed  at  the  opening  secured  them  as  perfectly  as 
if  they  had  been  shut  up  in  a stable. 

We  picked  up  a horse  here  that  had  become  very  fat 
upon  the  rich  bunch  grass.  He  had  probably  been  lost  or 
abandoned  by  the  Indians.  We  appropriated  the  animal, 
and  subsequently  used  him  for  food  in  the  mountains. 

On  the  8th  of  December  we  struck  Grand  River  near 
the  confluence  of  its  two  principal  branches,  the  Uncomjpa- 
dre  and  the  BunJcara.  We  forded  them,  but  with  much  dif- 
ficulty, as  the  water  was  deep  and  rapid,  and  filled  with 
floating  ice,  and  encamped  at  the  base  of  the  “ Elk  Mount- 
ain,” near  the  remains  of  an  old  Indian  trading  establish- 
ment, which  had  formerly  been  occupied  by  a man  named 
Robedeau,  of  St.  Louis,  who  wandered  out  into  this  remote 
wilderness  many  years  ago,  but  was  subsequently  driven 
away  and  his  buildings  burned  by  the  Indians. 

We  were  at  this  point  within  a few  miles  from  the  west- 
ern base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  rose  in  formidable 
proportions  in  front  of  us,  and  appeared  covered  with  a 
heavy  coating  of  snow.  Thus  far  our  journey  had  been 
pleasant,  and  we  had  encountered  no  serious  obstacles. 
Our  animals  had  found  abundance  of  grass,  and  were  in  fair 
condition. 

But,  as  the  guides  informed  me  that  we  were  to  enter  the 
mountains  at  this  point,  their  appearance  gave  me  serious 
apprehensions  for  the  future.  We  here  fell  in  with  a large 
band  of  Digger  Ute  Indians,  who  were  subsisting  upon  rab- 
bits, bugs,  crickets,  etc.  They  came  flocking  around  us  as 
soon  as  we  arrived,  examining  every  thing,  and  begging 
for  such  articles  as  happened  to  take  their  fancy.  They 
were  a ragged,  villainous-looking  set,  and  we  had  our  hands 
full  in  keeping  the  women  from  stealing  every  thing  that 
came  in  their  way. 

They  had  a good  many  ponies ; but,  although  we  offered 


230 


DISCOURAGEMENT. 


large  prices  for  some  of  them,  we  could  not  induce  them  to 
part  with  a single  one.  Their  curiosity  appeared  a good 
deal  exercised  to  ascertain  our  business  in  their  country  ; 
and  when  we  informed  them  that  we  were  bound  for  New 
Mexico,  they  expressed  great  astonishment,  and  would  point 
to  the  mountains  and  shiver  as  if  with  cold. 

I endeavored  to  persuade  the  chief  to  accompany  us  as 
guide  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  and  offered  him 
the  value  of  three  horses  in  goods,  but  he  peremptorily  re- 
fused, saying  that  he  was  not  yet  ready  to  die,  and  that,  un- 
less we  turned  back,  or  stopped  and  passed  the  winter  with 
them,  we  would  all  inevitably  perish.  My  interpreter  asked 
him  if  he  took  us  for  a set  of  old  women,  who  would  be  in- 
timidated by  a little  snow ; and  added,  that  he  had  always 
before  taken  him  for  a warrior  and  a man,  but  now  he  had 
discovered  his  mistake,  and  he  would  advise  him  to  go  back 
to  his  lodge,  cover  up  warm,  and  assist  his  squaw  in  tend- 
ing the  babies ; that  we  were  of  the  masculine  gender ; we 
had  started  to  cross  the  mountains  into  New  Mexico,  and 
were  going  to  accomplish  it  at  all  hazards,  and  if  he  did  not 
feel  disposed  to  go,  we  could  dispense  with  his  services. 
This  taunt  had  no  effect  upon  him,  however.  He  persisted 
in  refusing  to  go  with  us,  saying  that  all  we  had  would  not 
be  sufficient  to  induce  him  to  attempt  the  journey.  I then 
asked  him  how  much  snow  he  supposed  we  would  find  in 
the  mountains  ? He  replied  that  he  was  not  positive  as  to 
the  exact  depth,  but  that  he  crossed  over  the  same  route 
we  proposed  to  travel  in  the  autumn,  when  the  leaves  were 
commencing  to  fall,  and  that  he  then  found  about  one  foot 
upon  the  summit;  that  there  had  been  a great  deal  of  rain 
in  the  valley  since  that  time,  which  he  presumed  had  its 
equivalent  in  snow  upon  the  mountains,  and  he  was  of 
opinion  that  we  might  encounter  from  four  to  five  feet,  and 
perhaps  even  more  than  that.  He  concluded  by  saying, 


DEEP  SNOW. 


231 


“You  may  think  I do  not  tell  the  truth,  but  if  you  will 
only  cast  your  eyes  toward  the  mountains  you  can  see  for 
yourselves  that  the  snow  is  there.” 

On  the  following  morning  (the  11th  day  of  December), 
in  despite  of  the  gloomy  and  discouraging  prospects  held 
out  to  us  by  the  Digger  chief,  we  packed  up  our  mules 
and  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  western  slope  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  We  had  proceeded  but  a few  miles 
when  the  snow  began  very  seriously  to  impede  our  prog- 
ress. On  the  second  day  it  became  still  deeper,  with  a 
crust  upon  the  surface,  which  cut  the  legs  of  our  animals 
seriously,  and  caused  some  of  them  to  refuse  their  work. 
We,  however,  pushed  on,  until  at  length  we  found  the  snow 
so  deep  that  they  could  no  longer  force  their  way  through 
it,  and  I was  now  obliged  to  resort  to  a new  order  of  march. 
Up  to  this  time  we  had,  for  the  security  of  our  animals, 
adopted  the  plan  of  marching  with  an  advanced  guard,  im- 
mediately followed  by  the  pack  mules,  with  the  main  party 
in  rear. 

I now  placed  the  greater  part  of  the  command  in  front, 
in  single  rank,  so  as  to  break  a track  for  the  animals.  This 
was,  of  course,  very  hard  work  upon  a few  of  the  leading 
men ; and,  in  order  to  equalize  the  labor  as  much  as  possi- 
ble, I directed  that  every  man,  as  he  came  in  front,  should 
retain  that  position  a certain  length  of  time,  after  which  he 
was  permitted  to  turn  out  of  the  track  and  allow  all  the 
others  to  pass  him,  taking  his  place  in  rear.  By  these  al- 
ternations the  work  was  very  much  lightened,  and,  after 
all  the  party  had  passed,  a good  track  was  left  for  the  ani- 
mals. And  they  really  required  all  our  care,  as,  from  the 
time  we  entered  the  mountains,  they  received  no  other  sus- 
tenance than  what  they  derived  from  the  bitter  pine-leaves. 
The  effects  of  this  novel  and  unwholesome  forage  soon  be- 
gan to  manifest  itself  upon  them.  They  became  weak  and 


232 


BREAKING  THE  TRACK. 


exhausted,  and  at  length  began  to  give  out  and  die.  I was 
then  obliged  to  cache , or  hide,  all  our  surplus  luggage,  which 
reduced  the  weight  of  the  packs  very  considerably.  Not- 
withstanding this,  they  continued  to  perish.  One  day  we 
lost  five,  and  another  day  as  many  as  eight  died  out  of  our 
little  stock.  This  gave  me  very  serious  uneasiness,  as  our 
supply  of  provisions  was  becoming  very  small,  and  I knew, 
after  these  were  gone,  our  only  dependence  for  subsistence 
must  be  upon  our  famished  animals.  Our  beef  cattle  had 
nearly  all  been  consumed,  and  our  stock  of  bread  was  very 
limited.  I felt  the  necessity  of  husbanding  the  strength  of 
my  men  and  animals  as  much  as  possible.  I therefore  or- 
dered the  command  to  throw  away  every  article  of  baggage 
they  had  remaining  excepting  one  blanket  each  and  their 
arms  and  ammunition.  They  cheerfully  complied  with  the 
order,  and  we  thus  made  another  very  material  reduction 
in  the  weight  of  our  packs,  which  enabled  our  enfeebled 
animals  to  proceed  with  more  ease. 

The  snow  increased  day  . after  day  as  we  ascended,  until 
it  was  four  feet  deep,  and  was  so  dry  and  light  that  the 
men,  walking  in  an  upright  position,  would  sink  to  their 
waists,  and  could  not  move.  One  of  the  guides  made  a 
pair  of  snow  shoes,  and  attempted  to  walk  upon  them,  but 
they  sank  so  deep  in  the  soft  snow  that  it  was  impossible 
to  use  them. 

Our  only  alternative  now,  in  the  deepest  snow,  was  for 
the  three  or  four  leading  men  of  the  party  to  lie  down  and 
crawl  upon  their  hands  and  feet,  each  man  following  in  the 
tracks  of  the  leader,  and  all  placing  their  hands  and  feet  in 
the  same  holes.  This  method  packed  the  snow  so  that, 
after  a few  men  had  passed,  it  bore  up  the  others,  and  was 
sufficiently  firm  to  sustain  the  mules  after  all  the  men  had 
traversed  it. 

The  leading  man  was  generally  able  to  go  about  fifty 


OUT  OF  TOBACCO. 


238 


yards  before  be  became  exhausted ; but  I bad  one  soldier, 
named  McLeod,  of  the  10th  Infantry,  whose  powers  of  en- 
durance exceeded  those  of  any  other  man  I have  ever 
known.  He  would  generally,  when  his  turn  came  to  lead 
the  party,  make  about  four  times  the  distance  of  any  other 
man.  He  was  always  in  good  spirits,  and  never  became 
weary  or  discouraged,  and  his  example  had  a most  cheer- 
ing effect  upon  his  comrades.  One  bitter  cold  day,  after 
having  labored  very  hard,  we  halted  for  a few  moments, 
and  made  fires  to  warm  our  feet.  While  standing  over  the 
fire,  I took  out  my  pipe,  and,  cutting  a little  tobacco  from  a 
small  piece  I had  remaining,  indulged  myself  in  a smoke, 
the  men  having  used  their  last  tobacco  some  ten  days  be- 
fore. McLeod  was  standing  near  me  at  the  time,  and,  be- 
ing desirous  of  doing  something  to  show  my  appreciation 
of  his  valuable  service,  I handed  him  the  precious  morsel 
of  tobacco,  and  asked  him  if  he  would  not  like  to  smoke. 
He  replied,  “No,  I thank  you,  captain,  I never  smoke.”  I 
suggested  that  he  was  very  fortunate  in  not  being  addicted 
to  the  habit  at  a time  when  tobacco  was  so  very  scarce. 
After  a moment’s  hesitation,  he  said,  “/  sometimes  take  a 
chew”  when  I told  him  to  help  himself,  which  he  did,  and 
immediately  exclaimed,  “ I never  tasted  any  thing  so  good 
in  my  life;  I would  have  given  ten  dollars  for  that,  cap- 
tain.” 

Notwithstanding  I reduced  the  rations  one  half,  our  pro- 
visions were  all  consumed  long  before  we  reached  the  top 
of  the  mountains,  and  we  were  then  entirely  dependent 
upon  our  famished  animals  for  food. 

Our  first  repast  upon  the  novel  regimen  was  from  a colt 
belonging  to  Tim  Goodale’s  Indian  wife,  who  accompanied 
us,  and  underwent  the  hardships  of  the  trip  with  astonish- 
ing patience  and  fortitude. 

She  cried  very  bitterly  when  the  colt  was  killed,  as  it 


234 


MULE-STEAKS. 


had  always  been  her  pet ; but  she  realized  the  necessity  of 
the  sacrifice,  and  was  consoled  upon  my  promising  her  an- 
other on  our  arrival  in  New  Mexico. 

We  found  the  meat  well-flavored,  tender,  and  palatable. 

Our  next  meal  was  from  a very  old,  lean,  and  tough  mare 
which  had  given  out  and  could  perform  no  farther,  service. 
This  we  found  any  thing  but  a “bonne  bouche.”  We  were, 
however,  very  hungry,  and  ate  it. 

After  this  our  only  diet  for  twelve  days  consisted  of 
starved  mules  as  they  became  exhausted  and  could  go  no 
farther.  Twelve  of  my  men  had  frozen  their  feet  so  badly 
as  to  be  unable  to  walk,  and  we  were  obliged  to  appropri- 
ate all  our  serviceable  animals  to  carry  them.  I had  given 
up  my  own  horse  to  one  of  these  men,  and  took  his  place 
in  the  snow  with  the  others.  We  had  not  a single  morsel 
of  any  thing  left  to  eat  except  these  animals.  If  we  had 
had  some  salt  we  would  have  done  better,  but  that  was  all 
gone.  I was  in  the  habit  of  sprinkling  a little  gunpowder 
upon  my  mule-steaks,  and  it  did  not  then  require  a very 
extensive  stretch  of  the  imagination  to  fancy  the  presence 
of  both  pepper  and  salt. 

This  lean  meat  did  not,  however,  by  any  means  satisfy 
the  cravings  of  the  appetite,  and  we  were  continually  long- 
ing for  fat  meat.  Although  we  consumed  large  quantities 
of  the  mule  meat,  yet  within  half  an  hour  from  the  time  we 
had  finished  our  meals  we  would  feel  as  hungry  as  before 
we  had  eaten. 

One  day,  as  we  were  making  our  weary  way  through  the 
deepest  snow  near  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  and  when 
we  were  suffering  severely  from  the  intense  cold,  and  the 
piercing  winds  which  sweep  over  those  high  altitudes,  my 
guide,  Tim  Goodale,  called  out  to  me  from  the  front,  and 
pointing  toward  a snow-bank,  said  there  were  some  birds 
he  had  never  but  once  before  seen. 


WHITE-TAILED  PTARMIGAN. 


235 


I cast  my  eyes  in  the  direction  indicated,  but  could  dis- 
cern nothing  until  the  birds  rose  up  and  flew  away.  We 
subsequently  killed  two  of  them,  and,  upon  examination, 
found  them  about  the  size  of  the  partridge  of  the  North,  or 
the  pheasant  of  the  South.  They  were  as  white  as  the  snow 
itself,  without  a single  colored  feather,  and  their  method  of 
flying,  and  their  appearance  in  other  respects,  was  very  sim- 
ilar to  that  of  the  grouse.  I was  quite  confident  we  had 
discovered  a new  variety  of  that  species  of  bird,  until  two 
specimens  which  were  sent  to  Professor  Baird,  of  the  Smith- 
sonian Institute,  showed  them  to  be  the  “ Sagopus  leucurus 
or  white-tailed  ptarmigan,  a species  of  which  but  two  or 
three  specimens  are  said  to  be  found  in  any  ornithological 
collections,  and  those  are  in  Europe.  This  beautiful  bird, 
which,  in  its  winter  plumage,  is  as  white  as  the  snow  upon 
which  we  invariably  found  them,  was  before  supposed  to  be 
confined  to  that  part  of  the  Bocky  Mountain  chain  north 
* of  latitude  54°  north.  The  specimens  sent  to  Professor 
Baird  are  said  by  him  to  be  the  first  indications  of  their 
occurrence  within  the  limits  of  our  possessions,  and  it  ex- 
tends their  supposed  range  about  a thousand  miles  to  the 
south. 

These  birds  were  the  only  glimpses  of  animal  life  that  we 
had  met  with,  outside  of  our  own  party,  during  thirty  days 
that  we  were  struggling  through  the  deep  snow. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  my  journal,  written  on 
the  evening  of  the  1st  of  January. 

“ This  morning  dawned  upon  us  with  gloomy  auspices, 
far  from  promising  to  us  a happy  New  Year.  We  have 
been  engaged  since  daylight  this  morning  in  wallowing 
along  through  snow  at  least  five  feet  deep,  and  have  only 
succeeded*  by  the  severest  toil,  in  making  about  two  miles 
. during  the  entire  day.  From  our  bivouac  to-night  we  can 
see  the  fires  of  last  night,  and  in  the  darkness  they  do  not 


236 


COCHETOPE  PASS. 


appear  over  a rifle-shot  distant.  The  leading  men  have 
been  obliged  to  crawl  upon  their  hands  and  knees  to  pre- 
vent sinking  to  their  necks,  and  could  only  go  a few  yards 
at  a time  before  they  were  compelled,  in  a state  of  complete 
exhaustion,  to  throw  themselves  down  and  let  others  take 
their  places. 

“ Gallant  fellows ! Many  of  them  are  almost  barefooted, 
and  several  whose  feet  have  been  frozen  have  suffered  in- 
tensely from  pain  and  cold.  Yet  every  soldier,  without  a 
single  exception,  has  performed  every  thing  I required  of 
him  cheerfully  and  manfully ; they  have  never  faltered, 
or  uttered  a murmur  of  complaint.  I feel  for  them  from 
the  bottom  of  my  heart,  and  I should  be  recreant  to  my 
duty  as  their  commander  if  I neglected  to  give  expression 
to  my  profound  gratitude  for  the  almost  superhuman  efforts 
put  forth  by  them  to  extricate  the  party  from  our  perilous 
position.” 

At  one  period  of  this  toilsome  journey,  while  we  were 
ascending  the  Eagle-tail  River,  a branch  of  the  Grand  Riv- 
er, my  guide  made  a mistake,  and  took  the  wrong  direc- 
tion for  the  “ Cochetope  Pass,”  the  point  at  which  we  were 
aiming,  and  which  was,  as  I was  well  aware,  the  only  place 
where  it  was  possible  for  us  to  cross  the  summit  of  the 
chain,  as  on  the  north  and  south  of  this  passway  the  mount- 
ains were  much  more  elevated,  and  the  snow  so  deep  at 
that  season  that  it  would  have  been  utterly  impossible  for 
us,  in  our  enfeebled  and  famished  condition,  to  have  forced 
our  way  through  it.  It  was  only  fifty  miles  south  of  the 
Cochetope  Pass  that  General  Fremont  attempted  to  pene- 
trate these  mountains  from  New  Mexico,  and  encountered 
so  much  snow  that  all  his  animals  perished,  and  he  was 
forced  to  turn  back,  with  the  loss  of  several  of  his  men,  be- 
fore the  party  was  extricated  from  their  perilous  position. 
We  traveled  the  greatest  part  of  fhe  day  in  the  wrong  di- 


LOSING  THE  WAY. 


237 


rection ; and  after  we  had  bivouacked  for  the  night,  one  of 
my  employes,  a Mexican  by  the  name  of  Miguel  Alona, 
came  to  me  and  told  me  that  we  had  left  the  right  direc- 
tion in  the  morning,  and,  pointing  toward  a depression  in 
the  mountains  at  right  angles  to  the  course  we  had  taken, 
some  thirty  miles  distant,  said  that  was  the  Cochetope  Pass. 
I asked  him  how  it  happened  that  he  knew  any  thing  about 
the  country.  He  replied  that  he  had  been  there  before,  and 
that  he  knew  it  well.  Whereupon  I called  up  the  guide, 
and  upon  questioning  him  in  regard  to  it,  he  admitted  that 
the  face  of  the  country,  buried  as  it  was  in  deep  snows,  pre- 
sented so  different  an  appearance  from  what  it  did  in  the 
summer  season,  when  he  had  traversed  it  before,  that  it  was 
possible  he  might  have  been  mistaken  ; but  still  he  be- 
lieved he  was  right.  I did  not  blame  him,  as  this  might 
have  occurred  with  any  one;  but  this  first  exhibition  of 
doubt  on  his  part  caused  me  great  uneasiness,  and  I now 
regarded  our  situation  as  involving  us  in  imminent  peril. 
We  had  advanced  too  far  to  retrace  our  steps,  and  the  only 
alternative  left  us  was  to  go  forward ; and  I asked  the  Mex- 
ican if  he  was  willing  to  act  as  guide,  telling  him  I would, 
in  addition  to  his  regular  pay,  make  him  a handsome  pres- 
ent for  his  services,  provided  he  conducted  us  in  safety  to 
Hew  Mexico ; but  I also  informed  him  that  if  at  any  time 
I discovered  he  was  leading  us  in  a wrong  direction,  I 
should  hang  him  to  the  first  tree. 

He  was  quite  displeased  at  this,  saying  that  he  was  sorry 
I should  think  he  would  attempt  to  deceive  me.  I told 
him  all  I required  was  for  him  to  be  sure  he  was  right,  and 
to  think  over  the  matter  deliberately,  and  come  back  and 
let  me  know  if  he  was  willing  to  enter  into  the  agreement 
upon  the  terms  proposed  by  me.  He  returned  in  a short 
time  and  said,  “I’ll  risk  my  neck  on  it,  captain.”  “Very 
well,”  I replied,  “ you  are  guide.” 


238 


BRAVE  SOLDIERS. 


From  this  time  the  uncertainty  of  our  position,  and  the 
knowledge  of  the  fact  that  if  we  failed  to  strike  the  Coche- 
tope  Pass  we  must  all  inevitably  perish,  gave  me  great  anx- 
iety, and  prevented  me  from  sleeping  for  several  nights. 
There  was  not  the  slightest  sign  of  a road,  trail,  or  foot- 
mark to  guide  us ; all  was  one  vast,  illimitable  expanse  of 
snow  as  far  as  the  eye  could  penetrate ; and  the  mountains 
rose  before  us,  peak  upon  peak,  until  they  were  lost  in  the 
clouds.  Not  a living  animal  outside  of  our  own  party  was 
seen  for  many,  many  long  days;  all  was  dreary,  desolate 
solitude ; but  my  noble  soldiers  struggled  manfully  ahead, 
and  not  a single  murmur  or  complaint  ever  was  heard  to 
come  from  them ; on  the  contrary,  they  endeavored  to  give 
me  encouragement,  and  requested  the  senior  sergeant  to  in- 
form me  that  they  had  observed  for  a few  days  past  that  I 
looked  melancholy,  and  they  desired  him  to  say  to  me  that 
they  were  willing  to  eat  mule  meat,  or  to  undergo  any  oth- 
er privations  that  I might  think  necessary^ and  that  they 
would  work  for  me  as  long  as  they  could  stand  upon  their 
legs.  As  before  stated,  I had  already  required  them  to 
throw  away  all  their  personal  baggage  except  one  blanket 
each,  and  the  poor  fellows  were  extremely  destitute  of  ev- 
ery thing.  They  had  worn  out  their  shoes,  and  had  patch- 
ed them  with  mule  hides  as  long  as  they  would  hang  to- 
gether, when  some  of  them  were  obliged  to  wrap  their  feet 
in  pieces  of  blankets  or  of  their  coat-tails  to  keep . them 
from  freezing.  Many  of  them  had  worn  out  their  pants, 
and  their  legs  were  greatly  exposed. 

The  dazzling  reflection  of  the  sun’s  rays  from  th^  snow 
was  very  painful,  and  made  several  of  the  men  snow  blind ; 
but  we  found  a remedy  for  this  by  blacking  our  faces  with 
powder  or  charcoal. 

The  greatest  deprivation  we  experienced,  however,  and 
the  one  which  caused  more  suffering  among  the  men  than 


239 


BILLY,  THE  MULE. 

any  other,  was  the  want  of  tobacco.  All  our  tobacco  was 
consumed  long  before  we  reached  the  summit  of  the  mount- 
ains, and  no  one  who  has  not  been  accustomed  to  the  use 
of  the  weed  can  imagine  the  intense  longing  produced  by 
being  suddenly  deprived  of  it. 

An  incident  occurred  while  we  were  in  the  mountains 
which  struck  me  at  the  time  as  being  one  of  the  most  re- 
markable and  touching  evidences  of  devotion  that  I have 
ever  known  evinced  among  the  brute  creation. 

On  leaving  Fort  Leavenworth  with  the  army  for  Utah  in 
the  previous  summer,  one  of  the  officers  rode  a small  mule, 
whose  kind  and  gentle  disposition  soon  caused  him  to  be- 
come a favorite  among  the  soldiers,  and  they  named  him 
“ Billy.”  As  this  officer  and  myself  were  often  thrown  to- 
gether upon  the  march,  the  mule,  in  the  course  of  a few 
days,  evinced  a growing  attachment  for  a mare  that  I rode. 
The  sentiment  was  not,  however,  reciprocated  on  her  part, 
and  she  intimated  as  much  by  the  reversed  position  of  her 
ears,  and  the  free  exercise  of  her  feet  and  teeth  whenever 
Billy  came  within  her  reach.  But  these  signal  marks  of 
displeasure,  instead  of  discouraging,  rather  seemed  to  in- 
crease his  devotion,  and  whenever  at  liberty  he  invariably 
sought  to  get  near  her,  and  appeared  much  distressed  when 
not  permitted  to  follow  her. 

On  leaving  Camp  Scott  for  New  Mexico  Billy  was  among 
the  number  of  mules  selected  for  the  expedition.  During 
the  march  I was  in  the  habit,  when  starting  out  from  camp 
in  the  morning,  of  leading  off  the  party,  and  directing  the 
packmen  to  hold  the  mule  until  I should  get  so  far  in  ad- 
vance with  the  mare  that  he  could  not  see  us ; but  the  mo- 
ment he  was  released  he  would,  in  spite  of  all  the  efforts  of 
the  packers,  start  off  at  a most  furious  pace,  and  never  stop 
or  cease  braying  until  he  reached  the  mare’s  side.  We  soon 
found  it  impossible  to  keep  him  with  the  other  mules,  and 
he  was  finally  permitted  to  have  his  own  way. 


240 


BRUTE  CONSTANCY. 


In  the  course  of  time  we  encountered  the  deep  snows  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains, 'where  the  animals  could  get  no  for- 
age, and  Billy,  in  common  with  the  others,  at  length  be- 
came so  weak  and  jaded  that  he  was  unable  any  longer  to 
leave  his  place  in  the  caravan  and  break  a track  through 
the  snow  around  to  the  front.  He  made  frequent  attempts 
to  turn  out  and  force  his  way  ahead,  but  after  numerous 
unsuccessful  efforts  he  would  fall  down  exhausted,  and  set 
up  a most  mournful  braying. 

The  other  mules  soon  began  to  fail,  and  to  be  left,  worn 
out  and  famished,  to  die  by  the  wayside.  It  was  not,  how- 
ever, for  some  time  that  Billy  showed  symptoms  of  becom- 
ing one  of  the  victims,  until  one  evening  after  our  arrival 
at  camp  I was  informed  that  he  had  dropped  down  and 
been  left  upon  the  road  during  the  day.  The  men  all  de- 
plored his  loss  exceedingly,  as  his  devotion  to  the  mare 
had  touched  their  kind  hearts,  and  many  expressions  of 
sympathy  were  uttered  around  their  bivouac  fires  on  that 
evening. 

Much  to  our  surprise,  however,  about  ten  o’clock,  just  as 
we  were  about  going  to  sleep,  we  heard  a mule  braying 
about  half  a mile  to  the  rear  upon  our  trail.  Sure  enough, 
it  proved  to  be  Billy,  who,  after  having  rested,  had  followed 
upon  our  track  and  overtaken  us.  As  soon  as  he  reached 
the  side  of  the  mare  he  lay  down  and  seemed  perfectly  con- 
tented. 

The  next  day  I relieved  him  from  his  pack,  and  allowed 
him  to  run  loose ; but  during  the  march  he  gave  out,  and 
was  again  abandoned  to  his  fate,  and  this  time  we  certainly 
never  expected  to  see  him  more.  To  our  great  astonish- 
ment, however,  about  twelve  o’clock  that  night  the  sonor- 
ous but  not  very  musical  notes  of  Billy  in  the  distance 
aroused  us  from  our  slumbers,  and  again  announced  his  ap- 
proach. In  an  instant  the  men  were  upon  their  feet,  gave 


BIVOUAC  IN  THE  SNOW. 


241 


three  hearty  cheers,  and  rushed  out  in  a body  to  meet  and 
escort  him  into  camp. 

But  this  well-meant  ovation  elicited  no  response  from 
him.  He  came  reeling  and  floundering  along  through  the 
deep  snow,  perfectly  regardless  of  these  honors,  pushing 
aside  all  those  who  occupied  tbe  trail  or  interrupted  his 
progress  in  the  least,  wandering  about  until  he  found  the 
mare,  dropped  down  by  her  side,  and  remained  until  morn- 
ing. 

When  we  resumed  our  march  on  the  following  day  he 
made  another  desperate  effort  to  proceed,  but  soon  fell  down 
exhausted,  when  we  reluctantly  abandoned  him,  and  saw 
him  no  more. 

Alas ! poor  Billy ! your  constancy  deserved  a better  fate ; 
you  may,  indeed,  be  said  to  have  been  a victim  to  unre- 
quited affection. 

The  method  of  constructing  our  bivouac  was  for  each  set 
of  two  or  three  men  to  dig  a hole  about  seven  or  eight  feet 
square  down  through  the  snow  to  the  ground,  where  a bed 
was  made  of  soft  pine  twigs,  over  which  a blanket  was 
spread.  Two  forked  sticks  were  then  set  upright  in  the 
snow  to  the  windward  of  the  centre,  and  across  them  a hor- 
izontal pole  was  laid,  and  extending  from  this  to  the  snow 
a thick  covering  of  pine  bushes  was  placed,  forming  a sort 
of  roof  that  shielded  us  perfectly  from  the  wind.  This  ar- 
rangement, with  good  fires  at  the  bottom  of  the  pits,  ena- 
bled us  to  keep  tolerably  warm  during  the  coldest  nights. 
We  suffered  more  from  the  cold  during  the  daytime,  and 
it  was  while  marching  that  the  men  froze  their  feet. 

From  some  cause  or  other  which  was  incomprehensible 
to  me,  the  men  were  often  attacked  with  violent  cramps  in 
the  stomach,  even  before  they  commenced  eating  mule  meat, 
and  the  symptoms  in  all  cases  were  nearly  the  same.  I in- 
variably administered  for  it  a dose  of  about  twenty  grains 

X 


242 


THE  TOP  OF  THE  PASS. 


of  blue  mass,  which  afforded  temporary  relief,  but  on  the 
second  or  third  day  following  the  complaint  generally  re- 
turned in  a more  aggravated  form  than  at  first,  and  I then 
gave  another  dose  of  about  thirty  grains  of  the  same  medi- 
cine, which  never  failed  to  effect  a permanent  cure. 

After  I had  placed  Miguel  in  the  position  of  guide,  we 
struggled  along  up  the  western  slope  of  the  mountains  as 
rapidly  as  the  snow  and  our  exhausted  condition  would 
permit,  and,  at  the  expiration  of  ten  days,  found  ourselves 
upon  the  summit  of  a mountain,  which  the  guide  pro- 
nounced the  long-looked-for  Cochetope  Pass  — that  Mecca 
of  our  most  ardent  aspirations. 

Although  I was  by  no  means  certain  he  was  right,  yet  I 
was  much  rejoiced,  and  I now  felt  in  a great  measure  re- 
lieved from  the  burden  of  responsibility  which  had  given 
me  such  anxiety  and  distress  of  mind  during  the  last  twen- 
ty days  and  nights. 

From  the  crest  of  the  great  continental  vertebral  column 
of  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain,  with  one  foot  standing  upon 
the  earth  drained  by  the  waters  of  the  Pacific,  and  the  oth- 
er upon  that  from  which  flowed  a tributary  to  the  Atlantic, 
we  could  see  in  the  east,  stretching  off  from  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  a vast  plain,  extending  to  the  south  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach.  This,  the  guide  informed  me,  was  the  val- 
ley of  the  Rio  del  Norte ; and  a mountain,  which  we  could 
discern  on  the  opposite  side  of  this  valley,  apparently  a 
hundred  miles  distant,  he  said  was  near  Fort  Massachu- 
setts. 

As  we  still  had  three  good  mules  remaining,  I determ- 
ined to  send  forward  Mariano  and  Miguel  to  Fort  Massa- 
chusetts, to  bring  us  back  supplies,  as  we  were  now  reduced 
to  a state  bordering  on  starvation.  Accordingly,  I wrote  a 
letter  to  the  commanding  officer,  telling  him  our  situation, 
and  requesting  him  to  forward  us  succor  as  soon  as  possible. 


THE  RELIEF. 


243 


These  men  took  the  good  mules  and  started,  and  we  fol- 
lowed on  their  tracks,  expecting  they  would  return  to  us 
with  the  supplies  in  about  six  or  seven  days ; but  we  con- 
tinued on  the  trail,  until  finally  the  snow  had  covered  it 
up,  so  that  we  could  no  longer  see  it,  and  at  length,  after 
ten  days,  as  the  men  did  not  return,  we  concluded  they 
must  have  perished  or  been  lost.  On  the  eleventh  day  we 
reached  the  extended  valley  at  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
and,  for  the  first  time  in  thirty  days,  found  a little  dry  grass 
appearing  above  the  snow.  As  our  few  remaining  mules 
were  greatly  famished,  I concluded  to  make  a halt  for  a 
day  at  this  place  and  let  them  graze.  W e had  not  yet  seen 
a human  being  outside  of  our  own  party  since  we  left  Grand 
River,  thirty-one  days  before,  and  we  were  all  anxiously 
looking  out  for  the  return  of  our  messengers  from  Fort 
Massachusetts.  Nothing  appeared,  however,  until  near  sun- 
set, when  one  of  the  soldiers,  upon  an  elevation  near  camp, 
cried  out,  “ There  comes  two  men  on  horseback and, 
sure  enough,  in  a few  moments,  up  galloped  our  long-absent 
Companions  upon  fresh  horses,  firing  their  revolvers,  and 
making  other  demonstrations  of  joy. 

We  knew  from  their  fresh  horses  that  they  had  reached 
the  fort  and  that  we  were  now  saved,  and  the  exhibition  of 
joy  manifest  among  the  command  exceeded  any  thing  of 
the  kind  ever  beheld.  Some  of  the  men  laughed,  danced, 
and  screamed  with  delight,  while  others  (and  I must  con- 
fess I was  not  one  among  the  former)  cried  like  children. 
I had  not  slept  half  an  hour  at  a time  for  twenty  days 
and  nights,  and  was  reduced  from  170  to  131  pounds  in 
weight,  and,  of  course,  my  nervous  system  was  not  at  that 
juncture  under  very  good  control.  My  joy  was  too  great, 
under  the  circumstances,  to  find  utterance  in  noise  or  lev- 
ity ; on  the  contrary,  I mentally  offered  up  sincere  thanks 
to  the  Almighty  for  delivering  us  from  the  horrible  death 
of  starvation. 


244 


BRANDY. 


The  mere  accident  of  Miguel’s  happening  to  be  with  us, 
without  any  doubt,  saved  our  lives,  as  without  him  we 
could  never  have  found  the  pass,  and  must  have  perished 
in  the  mountain. 

As  soon  as  Mariano  arrived  he  was  surrounded  by  the 
men,  eagerly  entreating  him  for  tobacco,  when  he  produced 
a large  plug  of  Cavendish,  and  threw  it  among  them.  It 
was  in  an  instant  torn  to  pieces  and  distributed,  but  one 
man  had  been  omitted  in  the  division,  and  I heard  him  of- 
fer ten  dollars,  or  a month’s  pay,  for  a quid. 

Mariano  informed  me  that  he  had  delivered  my  letter  to 
Captain  Bowman,  the  commanding  officer  at  Fort  Massa- 
chusetts, who  at  once  dispatched  three  wagons  with  sup- 
plies for  us ; that  these  wagons  left  the  fort  with  him,  and 
were  then  probably  about  fifty  miles  back,  as  he  had  come 
very  rapidly.  I at  once  turned  him  back,  with  an  order 
for  the  man  in  charge  to  drive  night  and  day  until  he  met 
us ; and  early  on  the  following  morning  we  resumed  our 
march,  and  had  not  gone  over  ten  miles,  when,  much  to  our 
delight,  we  met  the  wagons,  and  immediately  went  into 
camp.  I was  obliged  to  guard  them  very  closely,  to  pre- 
vent the  men  from  getting  at  the  provisions,  as  I was  fully 
aware  of  the  danger  of  overeating  after  long  abstinence. 

Among  other  things  which  Captain  Bowman  had  kindly 
sent  me  was  a jug  of  brandy,  and,  as  I thought  this  a prop- 
er occasion  to  indulge  my  men  in  the  good  cheer  that  they 
had  been  so  long  .deprived  of,  I issued  to  each  of  them  a 
moderate  drink  of  the  liquor,  but,  much  to  my  astonish- 
ment, in  a short  time  many  of  them  were  very  much  under 
the  influence  of  it,  and  some  even  crazy  drunk.  It  had 
acted  upon  their  empty  stomachs  much  more  potently  than 
I had  anticipated,  but  I felt  no  inclination  to  censure  them 
for  this ; on  the  contrary,  I entertained  a feeling  some- 
what similar  to  that  of  General  Jackson  when  a charge  of 


AKIilVAL  NEAR  FORT  MASSACHUSETTS. 


FORT  MASSACHUSETTS. 


247 


drunkenness  was  made  to  him  against  an  officer  who  had 
rendered  conspicuous  services  in  the  war  of  1812,  and  he  re- 
plied that  Colonel  C.’s  gallant  conduct  in  battle-  authorized 
him  to  continue  drunk  during  the  remainder  of  his  life,  if 
he  thought  proper.  I conceived  that  my  men  had  a per- 
fect right  to  get  drunk  after  what  they  had  endured. 

We  had  a most  luxurious  supper,  and  all  enjoyed  it 
hugely;  but  during  the  night,  several  of  the  men,  not  feel- 
ing satisfied  with  the  soup  I had  thought  it  wise  to  confine 
them  to,  had  gone  to  the  wagons  and  prevailed  upon  the 
sentinels  to  allow  them  to  take  enough  to  gorge  themselves 
so  much  that  the  next  morning  found  them  suffering  most 
excruciating  torture,  and  one  of  the  poor  fellows  died  the 
next  day. 

On  the  fourth  day  after  this  we  marched  into  Fort  Mas- 
sachusetts, and  were  most  hospitably  received  by  the  offi- 
cers and  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  who  supplied  us  with 
clothing,  provisions,  and  every  thing  else  we  needed. 

As  we  approached  the  fort,  one  of  the  officers  compli- 
mented us  by  saying  that  he  took  us  for  a band  of  prairie 
Indians.  Not  more  than  one  half  of  the  men  had  any  caps, 
and  but  few  had  any  remains  of  trowsers  below  the  knees. 
Their  feet  were  tied  up  with  mule  hides,  pieces  of  blankets, 
coat-tails,  etc.,  and  they  certainly  were  rough  and  ragged- 
looking  specimens  of  United  States  soldiers.  As  for  my- 
self, I am  confident  my  own  wife  would  not  have  recog- 
nized me.  I had  set  out  from  Fort  Bridger  with  a ward- 
robe of  stout  material  suited  to  the  rough  work  which  I ex- 
pected to  encounter,  but  I had  divided  this  among  my  des- 
titute men  until  I was  myself  reduced  to  a scanty  allow- 
ance. Among  other  garments  I had  remaining  was  a sol- 
dier’s overcoat,  from  the  skirts  of  which  I was  in  the  habit 
of  cutting  off  pieces  to  patch  my  pants  and  stockings ; and 
as  rents  in  these  were  of  every-day  occurrence,  by  the  time 


248 


mariano’s  suppers. 


I reached  the  fort  there  was  but  very  little  left  of  my  orig- 
inal coat-tails. 

Mariano  and  Miguel,  whom  I had  sent  forward  with  the 
message  to  the  commanding  officer,  had  experienced  great 
suffering  from  hunger  upon  their  trip,  and  had  been  obliged 
to  kill  one  of  their  mules  for  food  before  they  arrived  at 
the  fort. 

Mariano  took  lodgings  with  a Mexican  living  in  the  fort, 
and  immediately  ordered  a bountiful  supper,  which  he  said 
he  devoured  with  exceeding  gusto,  and  called  for  more. 
After  this  had  been  disposed  of,  he  says  he  smoked  his 
pipe  and  related  incidents  of  his  journey  to  the  family  until 
about  nine  o’clock,  when  he  began  to  feel  hungry  again, 
and  offered  the  hostess  two  dollars  if  she  would  cook  him 
another  supper,  which  she  willingly  did,  and  he  again  did 
ample  justice  to  its  merits.  This  he  thought  would  suffice 
him  until  morning.  Accordingly,  he  laid  down  and  went 
to  sleep ; but  ,dimng  the  night  he  awoke,  and,  to  his  sur- 
prise, found  himself  again  very  hungry.  The  family  were 
all  abed,  and  asleep  at  this  time ; the  fire  was  out,  and  he 
was  loth  to  disturb  them,  and  he  endured  the  cravings  of 
his  appetite  for  some  time ; but  at  length,  not  being  able  to 
stand  it  any  longer,  he  called  out  to  the  woman  of  the 
house,  telling  her  if  she  would  be  so  kind  as  to  get  up  and 
cook  him  one  more  supper  he  would  give  her  five  dollars. 
This  tempting  offer  had  the  effect  he  desired,  and  he  ate 
the  fourth  repast,  which  he  smilingly  informed  me  enabled 
him  to  worry  through  the  remainder  of  the  night. 

Some  of  my  readers  may  be  incredulous  regarding  the 
powers  of  Mariano  for  accomplishing  such  gastronomic 
feats ; but  when  it  is  considered  that  he  was  a half-breed 
Indian,  and  had  been  trained  to  their  habits  from  infancy, 
it  will  not  appear  at  all  surprising  to  those  who  are  familiar 
with  Indian  life. 


MONTE. 


249 


From  Fort  Massachusetts  we  marched  to  Taos,  New 
Mexico,  where  I paid  off  the  citizens  of  my  party,  and  of 
these  Mariano  received  some  five  hundred  dollars  for  his 
arduous'  and  valuable  services,  which  I thought  would 
prove  sufficient  to  supply^ all  his  wants  for  a long  period ; 
but  my  credulity  was  greatly  taxed  on  the  following  morn- 
ing when  he  told  me  his  money  was  all  gone,  and  asked 
me  for  a loan  of  five  dollars.  I said  to  him,  “ Is  it  possible 
you  have  been  robbed?”  He  replied,  “No,  but  me  lose 
him  all  at  monte,  messieur.”  I gave  him  the  modest  loan 
he  solicited,  accompanied  with  an  injunction  against  visit- 
ing the  monte  bank  again. 

He  thanked  me  for  the  advice,  but  at  the  same  time  ob- 
served, raising  his  eyes  and  shrugging  his  shoulders,  “May- 
be some  time  me  win,  messieur.” 

A few  days  after  this  I dispatched  him  back  to  Fort 
Bridger,  via  the  South  Pass,  with  a letter  to  General  John- 
ston reporting  our  arrival  in  New  Mexico.  The  return 
journey  he  accomplished  successfully,  and  was  handsomely 
rewarded  by  the  general  for  his  services. 

As  it  may  be  a subject  of  some  interest  to  those  who 
should  ever  have  occasion  to  travel  through  deep  snow  to 
know  the  relative  qualities  of  different  animals,  and  their 
powers  of  endurance  in  this  description  of  work,  I will  re- 
mark that  I set  out  upon  this  journey  with  horses,  mules, 
and  oxen,  the  latter  to  be  used  as  food. 

I found,  as  soon  as  we  struck  snow  three  feet  deep,  that 
the  mules  directly  became  disheartened,  laid  down,  and 
would  not  exert  themselves.  The  horses  seemed  more  am- 
bitious, and  would  push  their  way  through  the  snow  as 
long  as  possible ; but  they  soon  became  weary,  and  gave 
out  from  exhaustion  ; while  the  oxen  slowly  and  deliberate- 
ly plowed  their  way  through  the  deep  snow  for  a long  time 
without  becoming  jaded.  Moreover,  they  seemed  to  derive 


250 


THE  OX. 

much  better  sustenance  from  the  pine  leaves,  and  from 
browsing  upon  jDther  trees,  than  the  horses  and  mules.  I 
am  so  well  satisfied  upon  this  subject  that,  if  I was  ever 
obliged  to  make  another  journey  over  the  mountains  in 
winter  (which  God  forbid),  I would  take  no  other  animals 
but  oxen.  They  could  be  packed  with  luggage,  and  used 
as  beef  when  required.  There  is  also  less  danger  of  their 
stampeding  or  being  stolen  by  Indians  than  with  horses  or 
mules. 


RETURN  TRIP. 


251 


CHAPTER  IX. 

RETURN  TRIP  TO  UTAH. 

Return  Trip  to  Utah. — Route  of  the  March. — Organization  of  the  Party. — 
Order  to  Halt. — Fontaine-qui-bouille. — Herd  of  Elk. — Arrival  of  Re-en- 
forcements. — Terrible  Snow-storm. — Stampede.  — Storms. — Platte  River. 
— Denver  City. — Arrival  at  Fort  Bridger.  — Entrance  into  Salt  Lake 
City. — Scarcity  of  Mormons. — Salt  Lake. — Bathing. — Mormon  Industry. 
— Proclamation  by  Brigham  Young. — Mormon  Depredations. — Order  of 
Daniel  H.  Wells. — Interview  with  Captain  Van  Yliet. — Tone  of  the  Pul- 
pit and  Press. — Benediction  by  Heber  Kimball. 

Haying  accomplished  the  objects  of  my  mission  to  New 
Mexico  by  procuring  animals  and  other  supplies  sufficient 
to  enable  the  troops  at  Fort  Bridger  to  make  an  early 
march  into  Salt  Lake  Valley,  I,  on  the  15th  day  of  March, 
left  Fort  Union  on  my  return  for  Utah,  intending  to  pass 
around  the  eastern  base  of  the  mountains  near  Pike’s  Peak, 
and  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  Platte  Rivers, 
following  the  Cherokee  trail  from  the  “ Cache  la  poudre .” 
The  command  was  well  organized,  and  we  made  rapid 
progress  for  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  when,  on 
the  27th  day  of  March,  I received  an  order  from  the  gen- 
eral commanding  in  New  Mexico  to  halt  and  await  re-en- 
forcements. 

It  appeared  that  General  Johnston,  commanding  the 
troops  in  Utah,  had  received  information  that  the  Mor- 
mons intended  sending  out  a force  of  their  people  to  inter- 
cept our  party,  and  stampede,  scatter,  or  steal  our  animals. 
This  information  induced  General  Scott  to  believe  that  a 
force  superior  in  numbers  to  that  I had  at  my  disposal  was 
necessary  to  insure  our  safe  return. 


252 


FONTAINE-QUI-BOUILLE. 


I regretted  the  delay  caused  by  this  order,  as  I felt  con- 
fident we  were  sufficiently  strong  to  cope  with  any  force 
the  Mormons  would  be  likely  to  send  against  us.  More- 
over, I had  anticipated  that  the  “ Saints ” might  take  it  into 
their  heads  to  pay  their  respects  to  us  before  we  reached 
Fort  Bridger,  and  had  made  such  dispositions  in  the  organ- 
ization of  the  party  as  in  my  judgment  would  have  ren- 
dered us  perfectly  secure  against  any  molestations  from 
them.  I had  about  a hundred  of  the  best  trailers,  hunters, 
and  Indian  fighters  in  New  Mexico,  and  I intended,  as  soon 
as  we  reached  a point  where  there  was  any  probability  the 
Mormons  would  come,  to  keep  these  men  continually  scout- 
ing at  least  a day  in  advance  of  the  main  command  with 
the  animals  and  supplies.  They  would,  I believed,  have 
discovered  the  presence  of  the  Mormons  before  the  latter 
were  aware  of  our  proximity,  and  my  plan  was  to  have  the 
Mexicans,  who  were  perfectly  au  fait  in  all  such  matters, 
either  take  or  stampede  all  the  Mormons’  animals,  thereby 
turning  the  tables  upon  them,  and  placing  them  on  foot. 
But  I had  no  discretion.  I was  obliged  to  obey  the  order, 
and  went  into  camp  upon  the  head  waters-  of  a small  tribu- 
tary of  the  Arkansas  called  u Fontaine-qui-bouillef  directly 
at  the  foot  of  Pike’s  Peak,  and  near  a very  peculiar  spring, 
which  gives  the  name  to  the  stream. 

This  beautiful  fountain  issues  from  the  centre  of  a basin, 
or  rather  bowl,  about  six  feet  in  diameter,  and  throws  out  a 
column  of  water  near  the  size  of  a man’s  arm.  The  recep- 
tacle, which  is  constantly  filled,  but  never  runs  over,  seems 
to  have  been  formed  by  the  deposit  of  salts  from  the  water, 
and  is  as  perfectly  symmetrical  and  round  as  if  it  had  been 
cut  out  with  a chisel. 

As  the  fountain  is  constantly  playing  and  never  over- 
flows, it  of  course  has  a subterraneous  outlet. 

The  most  remarkable  feature,  however,  in  the  Fontaine - 


HERD  OF  ELK. 


253 


qui-bouille  is  the  peculiar  taste’ of  the  water.  It  is  pungent 
and  sparkling,  and  somewhat  similar  in  taste  to  the  water 
from  the  Congress  Springs  at  Saratoga,  but  sweeter,  and, 
to  my  palate,  pleasanter.  We  drank  it  every  day  in  large 
quantities  without  perceiving  any  ill  effects  from  it,  and 
the  men  made  use  of  it  instead  of  yeast  in  raising  their 
bread,  which  induced  the  belief  that  it  contained  soda,  or 
some  other  alkali.  The  Indians  believe  it  to  possess  some 
mysterious  powers,  the  purport  of  which  I could  not  learn ; 
but  there  were  a great  many  arrows,  pieces  of  cloth,  and 
other  articles  that  they  had  deposited  in  the  spring,  proba- 
bly as  offerings  to  the  “big  medicine”  genius  that  presided 
over  it. 

We  remained  at  this  place  a month,  during  which  time 
we  amused  ourselves  in  hunting  elk,  mountain  sheep,  and 
black-tailed  deer,  all  of  which  were  very  abundant  in  the 
surrounding  country,  and  our  larder  was  constantly  sup- 
plied with  the  most  delicious  game. 

I remember  that  one  morning,  just  at  daybreak,  I was 
awakened  by  my  servant,  who  told  me  there  was  a large 
herd  of  elk  in  close  proximity  to  the  camp.  I ran  out  as 
soon  as  possible,  and  saw  at  least  five  hundred  of  these 
magnificent  animals  drawn  up  in  line,  like  a troop  of  cav- 
alry horses,  with  their  heads  all  turned  in  the  same  direc- 
tion, and  from  the  crest  of  a high  projecting  cliff  looking 
in  apparent  wonder  and  bewilderment  directly  down  upon 
us.  It  was  to  me  a most  novel  and  interesting  spectacle. 
The  noise  made  in  the  camp  soon  frightened  them,  how- 
ever, and  they  started  for  the  mountains.  They  were  pur- 
sued for  some  distance  by  our  hunters,  who  succeeded  dn 
killing  six  before  they  escaped. 

On  the  30th  day  of  April,  our  re-enforcements  having 
joined  us,  we  gladly  resumed  our  march  for  Utah,  and  at 
about  one  o’clock  encamped  upon  the  ridge  that  divides 

Y 


254 


A FIERCE  STORM. 


the  Arkansas  from  the  PlattS  Rivers.  The  day  was  bright, 
cheerful,  and  pleasant,  the  atmosphere  soft,  balmy,  and  de- 
lightful, the  fresh  grass  was  about  §jx  inches  high,  the  trees 
had  put  forth  their  new  leaves,  and  all  nature  conspired  in 
giving  evidence  that  the  sombre  garb  of  winter  had  been 
cast  aside  for  the  more  verdant  and  smiling  attire  of  spring. 
Our  large  herds  of  animals  were  turned  out  to  graze  upon 
the  tender  and  nutritious  grass  that  every  where  abounded. 
Our  men  were  enjoying  their  social  jokes  and  pastimes  after 
the  fatigues  of  the  day-’s  march,  and  every  thing  indicated 
contentment  and  happiness. 

This  pleasant  state  of  things  lasted  until  near  sunset, 
when  the  wind  suddenly  changed  into  the  north : it  turned 
cold,  and  soon  commenced  snowing  violently,  and  continu- 
ed to  increase  until  it  became  a frightful  winter  tempest, 
filling  the  atmosphere  with  a dense  cloud  of  driving  snow, 
against  which  it  was  utterly  impossible  to  ride  or  walk. 
Soon  after  the  storm  set  in  one  of  our  herds  of  three  hund- 
red horses  and  mules  broke  furiously  away  from  the  herds- 
men who  were  guarding  them,  and,  in  spite  of  their  utmost 
efforts,  ran  at  full  speed,  directly  with  the  wind,  for  fifty 
miles  before  they  stopped.  Three  of  the  herdsmen  fol- 
lowed them  as  far  as  they  were  able,  but  soon  became  ex- 
hausted, bewildered,  and  lost  on  the  prairie. 

One  of  them  succeeded  in  finding  his  way  back  to  camp 
in  a state  of  great  prostration  and  suffering.  One  of  the 
others  was  found  frozen  to  death  in  the  snow,  and  the  third 
was  discovered  crawling  about  upon  his  hands  and  knees, 
in  a state  of  temporary  delirium,  after  the  tempest  sub- 
sided. 

This  terrific  storm  exceeded  in  violence  and  duration 
any  thing  of  the  kind  our  eldest  mountaineers  had  ever  be- 
held. It  continued  with  uninterrupted  fury  for  sixty  con- 
secutive hours,  and  during  this  time  it  was  impossible  to 


STAMPEDE  OF  HORSES  AND  MULES 


. 


ANIMALS  IN  A STOEM. 


257 


move  for  any  distance  facing  the  wind  and  snow.  One  of 
our  employes,  who  went  out  about  two  hundred  yards  from 
camp,  set  out  to  return,  but  was  unable  to  do  so,  and  perish- 
ed in  the  attempt. 

The  instincts  of  all  our  animals,  excepting  the  herds  al- 
luded to,  led  them  to  seek  shelter  in  a grove  of  timber  near 
camp,  where  they  were  somewhat  protected  from  the  fury 
of  the  gale.  But  several  antelopes  were  found  frozen  upon 
the  prairie  aftei*  the  storm. 

We  had  with  us  a flock  of  sheep,  which  scattered  through- 
out the  timber  in  every  direction  during  the  storm,  and 
afterward  were  nearly  as  wild  as  deer;  they,  like  the  in- 
sane herdsman,  seemed  to  have  lost  their  senses. 

I have  noticed  that  horses  and  mules,  during  a severe 
storm  upon  the  prairies,  will  generally  turn  their  heads 
from  the  wind,  and  stand  quiet  until  it  is  over.  For  in-1 
stance,  while  we  were  en  route  for  Utah,  on  the  30th  of 
July,  1857,  near  the  Big  Blue,  a very  severe  storm  sudden- 
ly arose,  which  soon  brought  with  it  hailstones  as  large,  as 
pigeon’s  eggs.  These  formidable  missiles  pelted  the  com- 
mand so  severely,  that  to  me,  who  possess  an  exceedingly 
keen  appreciation  of  the  ridiculous,  the  cavalcade  presented 
one  of  the  most  farcical  and  ludicrous  pictures  I ever  be- 
held. 

The  instant  the  hailstones  commenced  striking  the  ani- 
mals they  probably  supposed  it  a severe  application  of  the 
whip,  and  started  off  furiously  in  every,  direction,  without 
any  regard  to  each  other  or  to  the  road,  and  without  sub- 
mitting to  the  slightest  control  from  their  drivers  or  riders. 
The  mules  especially  seemed  perfectly  frantic  with  terror. 
They  plunged,  kicked,  and  jumped,  and  in  the  mean  time 
the  hailstones  rapidly  increased  in  size,  and  added  a corre- 
sponding re-enforcement  to  the  momentum  of  their  blows. 
The  mules  brayed  with  agony  and  fright ; they  threw  off 

Y* 


258 


A HAIL-STORM. 


their  riders,  overturned  many  of  the  wagons,  and  produced 
a universal  stampede  among  the  entire  command. 

My  own  mule,  which  I was  riding  at  the  time,  was  no 
more  quiet  or  reconciled  to  the  existing  condition  of  things 
than  the  others.  She  made  several  very  desperate  efforts 
at  lofty  vaulting  when  she  felt  the  first  hailstones,  and  came 
very  near  unseating  me,  but  I managed  to  quiet  her  suffi- 
ciently to  dismount,  and  attempted  to  hold  her  from  run- 
ning away.  I soon  found,  however,  that  the  hail  was  giv- 
ing me  some  very  severe  raps  upon  my  face  and  hands,  and 
that  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  seek  some  protection.  ‘I  ac- 
cordingly, with  great  difficulty,  took  off  my  saddle  while 
the  mule  was  plunging  and  kicking  vigorously,  and  let  her 
go,  then  squatted  down  upon  the  ground  and  covered  my 
head  with  the  saddle,  which  guarded  it  against  the  frozen 
missiles.  My  hands,  however,  projected  over  the  edges  of 
the  saddle,  and  received  several  hard  knocks  that  took  off 
the  skin. 

After  the  animals  broke  loose,  they  soon  discovered  that 
they  did  not  escape  the  hail  by  running,  and  they  all  of 
their  own  accord  stopped,  turned  their  tails  to  windward, 
and  remained  perfectly  quiet  in.that  position  until  the  storm 
ceased. 

In  Western  and  Southern  Texas,  during  the  autumn  and 
winter  months,  storms  arise  suddenly,  and  are  generally  ac- 
companied by  a north  wind,  which  is  very  severe  upon 
men  and  animals  mT  and  although  the  mercury  seldom  indi- 
cates the  freezing  point,  yet  these  storms  are  sometimes  so 
terrific  as  to  compel  travelers  to  hasten  to  the  nearest  shel- 
tered spot  to  save  their  lives,  and  I have  known  of  several 
instances  where  men  and  animals  have  perished  in  these 
11  Northers,11  as  they  are  called.  During  the  winter  season 
the  climate  here  is  generally  as  mild  and  genial  as  the  May 
atmosphere  in  New  York  ; but  when  a Norther  appears, 


A FLOOD. 


259 


the  temperature  often  undergoes  a sudden  depression  of 
many  degrees  in  a few  minutes,  the  perspiration  is  checked, 
and  the  system  receives  a shock,  against  which  it  requires 
great  vital  energy  to  bear  up.  Men  and  animals  are  not 
in  this  latitude  prepared  for  these  capricious  atmospheric 
changes,  and,  as  I said  before,  they  often  perish  under  their 
effects. 

While  passing  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Colorado  of 
Texas  in  the  autumn  of  1849, 1 left  one  of  my  camps  at 
daylight  in  the  morning,  with  a mild  and  soft  atmosphere, 
tempered  with  a gentle  breeze  from  the  south,  but  had  trav- 
eled only  a short  distance  when  the  wind  suddenly  whipped 
around  into  the  north,  bringing  with  it  a furious  chilling 
rain,  and  in  a few  minutes  the  ground  became  so  soft  and 
heavy  as  to  make  the  labor  of  pulling  the  wagons  over  it 
very  exhausting  upon  our  mules.  When  we  went  into 
camp  the  animals  were  in  a profuse  sweat,  and  the  rain  was 
pouring  down  in  torrents  upon  them.  It  continued  to 
rain  incessantly,  as  hard  as  I ever  saw  it  in  a violent  thun- 
der-shower, for  upward  of  thirty  consecutive  hours,  and  it 
seemed  as  if  the  heavens  were  pouring  out  upon  us  a sec- 
ond deluge. 

A ravine  near  us,  which  was  dry  when  we  encamped, 
was,  on  the  following  morning,  a rapid  stream  of  sufficient 
magnitude  to  float  an  ocean  steam-ship,  and  the  ground  was 
every  where  covered  with  water. 

We  had  great  difficulty,  on  our  first  arrival  in  camp,  in 
making  a fire ; for,  as  soon  as  it  was  started  a little,  the  rain 
would  put  it  out,  like  dashing  a bucket  of  water  upon  it, 
and  we  were  obliged  finally  to  hold  blankets  over  it  until 
the  wood  was  thoroughly  kindled. 

Our  mules  were  unharnessed  as  soon  as  we  reached  the 
camping-ground  and  turned  out  to  graze,' but,  instead  of 
feeding  as  usuftl,  they  turned  their  heads  from  the  wind, 


260 


LOSS  OF  MULES. 


and  remained  in  that  position,  chilled  and  trembling,  with- 
out making  the  least  effort  to  move ; and  on  the  following 
morning,  thirty-five  out  of  our  herd  of  one  hundred  and 
ten  had  perished,  while  those  still  alive  could  hardly  be 
said  to  have  any  vitality  left.  They  were  drawn  up  with 
cold,  and  could  with  difficulty  walk. 

We  cut  up  our  tents  and  wagon-covers  to  protect  them 
from  the  storm,  which  still  continued  with  unabated  fury, 
and  drove  them  about  until  a little*  vital  energy  was  re- 
stored, after  which  they  commenced  eating  grass  and  re- 
cuperated, but  it  was  three  days  before  they  were  sufficient- 
ly recovered  to  resume  the  march. 

I made  a mistake  in  driving  the  mules  after  the  “ North- 
er” commenced.  Had  I halted  at  once,  and  encamped  be- 
fore they  became  heated  and  wearied,  they  would  probably 
have  eaten  the  grass,  and  this,  I have  no  doubt,  would  have 
fortified  them  against  the  effects  of  the  storm;  but,  as  it 
was,  their  blood  became  heated  from  overwork,  and  the  sud- 
den chill  brought  on  a reaction  which  proved  fatal. 

If  an  animal  eats  his  forage  plentifully,  there  is  but  little 
danger  of  his  perishing  with  cold. 

The  loss  of  our  animals  obliged  us  to  abandon  several  of 
our  wagons,  and  every  thing  else  we  could  possibly  dis- 
pense with,  before  we  were  able  to  continue  our  journey. 

I subsequently  learned  that  the  Gomanches  appropriated 
this  property,  and  used  the  iron  in  making  arrow-points 
and  lance-heads. 

With  these  observations  in  regard  to  the  storms  I have 
encountered  in  different  latitudes,  I will  now  invite  the  read- 
er to  return  with  me  to  Squirrel  Creek,  where  we  left  the 
command  in  the  snow-storm. 

At  the  termination  of  this  frightful  tempest  there  was 
about  three  feet  of  snow  upon  the  ground,  but  the  warm 
rays  of  the  sun  soon  melted  it,  and,  after  collecting  together 


THE  PROPHET’S  BLOCK. 


ORIGIN  OF  DENVER  CITY. 


263 


our  stampeded  animals,  we  again  set  forward  for  Utah,  and 
on  the  third  day  following  struck  the  South  Platte  at  its 
confluence  with  .Cherry  Creek. 

We  found  the  river  at  such  a high  stage,  and  so  rapid, 
that  we  were  compelled  to  encamp  here  for  four  days  and 
construct  a flat-boat,  in  which  we  crossed  our  entire  party. 

There  was  at  that  time  but  one  white  man  living  within 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  of  the  place,  and  he  was  an  In- 
dian trader  named  Jack  Audeby,  upon  the  Arkansas. 

While  our  ferry-boat  was  being  constructed,  one  of  our 
citizen  employes  washed  from  the  sands  of  Cherry  Creek  a 
small  amount  of  gold-dust,  which  he  showed  to  me.  Soon 
afterward  he  was  discharged  and  went  to  St,  Louis,  and  in 
a short  time  the  miners  commenced  flocking  to  the  locality, 
and  laid  out  a town  which  has  continued  to  flourish  ever 
since,  and  at  this  time  contains  several  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  called  “ Denver  City ,”  and  I feel  quite  confident 
that  the  representations  made  by  our  discharged  teamster 
in  St.  Louis  and  other  places  were  the  origin  of  the  loca- 
tion and  establishment  of  a new  city  and  Territory. 

As  we  anticipated  finding  the  North  Platte  River  (some 
two  hundred  miles  in  advance)  above  a fording  stage,  we 
determined  to  haul  our  flat-boat  to  that  point.  According- 
ly, we  mounted  it  upon  a stout  wagon  drawn  by  a,  team  of 
twenty  mules,  and  transported  it  the  entire  distance.  We 
did  not  use  it,  however,  as  the  river  was  fordable.  We  left 
the  boat  there,  and  it  was  often  used  by  travelers  afterward, 
and  I believe  it  still  remains  at  the  same  place. 

Nothing  worthy  of  special  mention  occurred  to  us  after 
this,  and  we  reached  Fort  Bridger  with  our  supplies  on  the 
9th  day  of  June. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Fort  Bridger,  General  Johnston 
marched  his  command  into  Salt  Lake  Yalley,  and  we  en- 
camped in  a “church  pasture”  on  the  other  side  of  Jor- 


261 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


dan,  opposite  to  and  about  a mile  distant  from  Salt  Lake 
City. 

We  marched  through  the  city  with  colors  flying  and 
bands  playing,  but,  to  our  astonishment,  we  only  saw  here 
and  there  a very  few  persons.  The  city  seemed  to  have 
been  deserted,  and  those  that  we  did  see  were  apparently  so 
busily  occupied  that  they  never  even  condescended  to  look 
toward  our  sacrilegious  cavalcade  of  Gentiles.  This  was  the 
first  body  of  troops  of  any  magnitude  that  had  ever  made 
its  appearance  in  this  remote  part  of  the  universe ; yet  one 
would  have  thought,  from  the  perfect  indifference  with 
which  our  advent  was  looked  upon  by  the  Saints,  that  the 
event  was  of  every-day  occurrence. 

While  in  the  Territory,  I visited  that  vast  natural  deposit 
of  chloride  of  sodium,  Salt  Lake,  and  with  several  friends 
tried  the  experiment  of  bathing  in  it.  We  waded  out  from 
the  shore  until  the  water  reached  our  arm-pits,  when  our 
feet  were  raised  from  the  bottom  and  we  remained  suspend- 
ed. The  specific  gravity  of  the  water  is  so  great  that  we 
were  enabled  to  float  upon  the  surface  without  moving  hand 
or  foot.  We  folded  our  arms  and  sat  up  in  the  lake,  only 
sinking  to  near  the  arms,  and  we  floated  about  like  corks. 
The  sensation  was  most  novel  and  peculiar. 

The  fact  is,  that  the  entire  volume  of  the  lake  is  a satura- 
ted solution  of  salt,  the  water  being  charged  to  its  maximum 
capacity,  and  we  were  told  that  four  buckets  of  the  water 
made,  when  evaporated,  one  fourth  the  volume  of  pure  salt. 

The  wind  was  blowing  quite  fresh  while  we  were  in  the 
lake,  and  the  spray  fell  upon  our  heads  and  in  our  eyes, 
causing  most  acute  pain.  In  a very  few  minutes  after  we 
came  out  of  the  water  our  bodies  were  incrusted  with  an 
armor  of  salt,  and  our  hair  was  also  frosted  over  with  it, 
giving  us  the  appearance  of  very  great  longevity.  We  felt 
exceedingly  uncomfortable  in  this  saline  covering,  and  were 


SALT  LAKE. 


265 


puzzled  as  to  how  we  should  dispose  of  it,  until  some  one 
suggested  that  we  should  go  to  a fresh- water  spring  near  by, 
and  dissolve  the  salt,  which  we  did.  We  did  not  see  a fish 
or  any  other  living  animal  or  reptile  in  the  lake,  and  I doubt 
if  animal  life  could  be  sustained  there. 

As  is  very  generally  known,  this  vast  body  of  water 
(something  like  eighty  by  thirty  miles  in  extent)  receives 
several  quite  large  fresh- water  streams,  but  has  no  visible 
outlet. 

Ever  since  it  was  first  discovered  it  has  been  constantly 
contracting,  and  the  water  receding  from  the  shores.  The 
water  of  the  Salt  Lake  has  a greater  specific  gravity,  and  a 
greater  amount  of  solid  matter  than  any  other  known,  with 
the  exception  of  that  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

One  hundred  parts  of  the  water  by  weight  were  found 
to  contain,  after  evaporation,  22.422  of  solid  matter,  in  which 
were  the  following  constituents : 


Chloride  of  Sodium 20.196 

Sulphate  of  Soda 1.834 

Chloride  of  Magnesium 0.252 

22.282, 


with  a trace  of  Chloride  of  Calcium. 

The  analysis  of  the  Salt  Lake  waters,  as  given  by  Colonel 
Fremont,  for  100  parts  of  solid  matter,  is  as  follows : 


Chloride  of  Sodium 97.80 

“ “ Calcium 0.61 

“ “ Magnesium 0.24 

Sulphate  of  Soda 0.23 

“ “ Lime 1.12 


100.00 

One  hundred  parts  in  weight  of  the  Dead  Sea  water  gave 
24.580  of  solid  contents,  or  2.298  more  than  the  water  of 
Salt  Lake. 

The  following  analysis  of  the  Dead  Sea  water  at  different 
dates  and  by  different  chemists,  shows  some  very  different 
constituents  from  those  in  Salt  Lake. 

Z 


266 


MORMON  INDUSTRY. 


Dr.  Marcet. 
1807. 

Gay-Lussac. 

1818. 

Dr.  Apjohn. 
1839. 

Chloride  of  Calcium 

3.920 

3.980 

2.438 

‘ ‘ Magnesium 

10.246 

15.310 

7.370 

“ Sodium 

10.360 

6.950 

7.839 

“ Manganese 

0.005 

“ Potassium 

0.852 

Bromide  of  Magnesium 

0.201 

Sulphate  of  Zinc 

0.054 

0.075 

Water 

75.420 

73.760 

81.220 

The  specific  gravity  of  the  Dead  Sea  water,  as  given  by 
the  above-named  authorities,  is  as  follows.  The  water  was 
taken  at  the  boiling  point,  and  contrasted  with  the  pure 
water  at  1000. 

Dr.  Marcet,  1211.  Gay-Lussac,  1228.  Dr.  Apjohn,  1153. 

Specific  gravity  of  Salt  Lake  Water 1.170 

Stanley,  in  his  work  on  Sinai  and  Palestine,  gives  the 
level  of  the  Dead  Sea  as  1300  feet  below  that  of  the  Medi- 
terranean, while  the  level  of  Salt  Lake  is  4200  feet  above 
the  ocean.  Both  of  these  peculiar  lakes  receive  fresh-water 
Jordans,  and  have  no  outlets. 

The  Mormons  are  a very  industrious  people,  and  no  one 
is  allowed  to  remain  idle  in  their  community.  Their  prin- 
cipal occupation  is  farming,  which  they  pursue  with  unre- 
mitting patience  and  perseverance. 

The  cultivation  of  the  soil  in  this  valley  is  attended  with 
a vast  amount  of  labor,  as  the  soil  produces  nothing  with- 
out artificial  irrigation,  and  this  involves  the  necessity  of 
excavating  canals  for  long  distances  to  bring  the  water 
from  the  mountain  streams,  after  which  it  is  distributed 
over  the  fields  in  small  ditches. 

The  construction,  repairs,  and  tending  of  these  numerous 
water  communications  requires  so  much  extra  labor  that 
one  man  can  cultivate  only  about  four  acres  of  ground,  or 
not  much  more  than  one  tenth  the  amount  that  he  could 
in  the  Eastern  States,  where  no  irrigation  is  required. 

In  view  of  these  facts,  it  struck  me  that  no  other  people 


A PROCLAMATION. 


267 


but  the  Mormons  or  Mexicans  would  ever  think  of  becom- 
ing farmers  in  Utah,  when  there  is  so  much  vacant,  uncul- 
tivated  domain  east  of  the  mountains,  where  the  rains  from 
heaven  irrigate  and  fertilize  the  soil. 

Before  we  reached  Utah  we  heard  many  rumors  con- 
cerning the  unfriendly  disposition  of  the  Mormons  toward 
the  United  States  government,  and  their  determination  to 
resist  by  force,  if  necessary,  our  entrance  into  Salt  Lake 
Yalley,  but  we  did  not  give  much  credence  to  these  reports 
until  we  received  the  following  proclamation  of  Brigham 
Young: 

u Proclamation  by  the  Governor. 

“ Citizens  of  Utah , — We  are  invaded  by  a hostile  force, 
who  are  evidently  assailing  us  to  accomplish  our  over- 
throw and  destruction. 

“For  the  last  twenty -five  years  we  have  trusted  officials 
of  the  government,  from  constables  and  justices  to  judges, 
governors,  and  presidents,  only  to  be  scorned,  held  in  de- 
rision, insulted,  and  betrayed.  Our  houses  have  been  plun- 
dered and  then  burned,  our  fields  laid  waste,  our  principal 
men  butchered  while  upder  the  pledged  faith  of  the  gov- 
ernment for  their  safety,  and  our  families  driven  from  their 
homes  to  find  that  shelter  in  the  barren  wilderness,  and  that 
protection  among  hostile  savages  which  were  denied  them 
in  the  boasted  abodes  of  Christianity  and  civilization. 

“ The  Constitution  of  our  common  country  guarantees  to 
us  all  that  we  do  now,  or  have  ever  claimed. 

“If  the  constitutional  rights  which  pertain  unto  us  as 
American  citizens  were  extended  to  Utah  according  to  the 
spirit  and  meaning  thereof,  and  fairly  and  impartially  ad- 
ministered, it  is  all  that  we  could  ask,  all  that  we  ever  asked. 

“Our  opponents  have  availed  themselves  of  prejudice 
existing  against  us  because  of  our  religious  faith,  to  send 


268 


THE  PROCLAMATION. 


out  a formidable  host  to  accomplish  our  destruction.  We 
have  had  no  privilege,  no  opportunity  of  defending  our- 
selves from  the  false,  foul,  and  unjust  aspersions  against  us 
before  the  nation. 

“The  government  has  not  condescended  to  cause  an  in- 
vestigating committee,  or  other  person,  to  be  sent  to  inquire 
into  and  ascertain  the  truth,  as  is  customary  in  such  cases. 

“We  know  those  aspersions  to  be  false,  but  that  avails 
us  nothing.  We  are  condemned  unheard,  and  forced  to 
an  issue  with  an  armed  mercenary  mob,  which  has  been 
sent  against  us  at  the  instigation  of  anonymous  letter-writ- 
ers, ashamed  to  father  the  base,  slanderous  falsehoods  which 
they  have  given  to  the  public;  of  corrupt  officials,  who 
have  brought  false  accusations  against  us  to  screen  them- 
selves in  their  own  infamy ; of  hireling  priests  and  holding 
editors , who  prostitute  the  truth  for  filthy  lucre’s  sake. 

“The  issue  which  has  been  thus  forced  upon  us  compels  • 
us  to  resort  to  the  great  first  law  of  self-preservation,  and 
stand  in  our  own  defense,  a right  guaranteed  to  us  by  the 
genius  of  the  institutions  of  our  country,  and  upon  which 
the  government  is  based. 

“ Our  duty  to  ourselves,  to  our  families,  requires  us  not 
tamely  to  be  driven  and  slain,  without  an  attempt  to  pre- 
serve ourselves.  Our  duty  to  our  country,  our  holy  relig- 
ion, our  God,  to  freedom  and  liberty,  requires  that  we 
should  not  quietly  stand  still  and  see  those  fetters  forging 
around,  which  are  calculated  to  enslave  and  bring  us  in 
subjection  to  an  unlawful  military  despotism,  such  as  can 
only  emanate  (in  a country  of  constitutional  law)  from 
usurpation,  tyranny,  and  oppression. 

“ Therefore , I,  Brigham  Young,  Governor  and  Superin- 
tendent of  Indian  Affairs  for  the  Territory  of  Utah,  in  the 
name  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  in  the  Territory 
of  Utah, 


A MORMON  LETTER. 


269 


“1st.  Forbid  all  armed  forces  of  every  description  from 
coming  into  this  Territory,  under  any  pretense  -whatever. 

“2d.  That  all  the  forces  in  said  Territory  hold  them- 
selves in  readiness  to  march  at  a moment’s  notice  to  repel 
any  and  all  such  invasion. 

“ 3d.  Martial  law  is  hereby  declared  to  exist  in  this  Ter- 
ritory from  and  after  the  publication  of  this  proclamation, 
and  no  person  shall  be  allowed  to  pass  or  repass  into  or 
through,  or  from  the  Territory,  without  a permit  from  the 
proper  officers. 

“Given  under  my  hand  and  seal  at  Great  Salt  Lake  City, 
Territory  of  Utah,  this  15th  day  of  September,  A.D.  1857, 
and  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America 
the  82d. 

(Signed)  “ Brigham  Young.” 

"With  this  proclamation  came,  by  express  from  Salt  Lake 
City,  the  following : 

“ Governor’s  Office,  Utah  Territory,  ) 
Great  Salt  Lake  City,  Sept.  29, 1857.) 
“To  the  officer  commanding  the  forces  now  invading  Utah  Territory: 

“ Sir, — By  reference  to  the  Act  of  Congress  passed  Sep- 
tember 9, 1850,  organizing  the  Territory  of  Utah,  publish- 
ed in  a copy  of  the  Laws  of  Utah,  herewith  forwarded,  p. 
146-7,  you  will  find  the  following : ‘ Section  2.  And  be  it 
further  enacted , That  the  executive  power  and  authority 
in  and  over  said  Territory  of  Utah  shall  be  vested  in  a gov- 
ernor, who  shall  hold  his  office  for  four  years,  and  until  his 
successor  shall  be  appointed  and  qualified , unless  sooner  re- 
moved by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  The  gov- 
ernor shall  reside  within  said  Territory,  shall  be  command- 
er-in-chief of  the  militia  thereof,’  etc. 

“ I am  still  the  Governor  and  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs  for  this  Territory,  no  successor  having  been  appoint- 


270 


A COOL-  PROPOSITION. 


ed  and  qualified,  as  provided  by  law,  nor  have  I been  re- 
moved by  the  President  of  the  United  States.  By  virtue 
of  the  authority  thus  vested  in  me,  I have  issued  and  for- 
warded you  a copy  of  my  proclamation  forbidding  the  en- 
trance of  armed  forces  into  this  Territory.  This  you  have 
disregarded”  (great  presumption,  this !).  “I  now  farther  di- 
rect that  you  retire  forthwith  from  the  Territory,  by  the 
same  route  you  entered.  Should  you  deem  this  impracti- 
cable, and  prefer  to  remain  until  spring  in  the  vicinity  of 
your  present  position  at  Black’s  Fork  or  Green  Biver,  you 
can  do  so  in  peace  and  unmolested,  on  condition” — (now 
comes  the  cream  of  the  joke) — “ that  you  deposit  your  arms 
and  ammunition  with  Lewis  Bobinson,  Quarter-master-gen- 
eral of  the  Territory,  and  leave  in  the  spring  as  soon  as  the 
condition  of  the  roads  will  permit  you  to  march.  And 
should  you  fall  short  of  provisions,  they  can  be  furnished 
you  upon  making  the  proper  applications  therefor. 

“General  D.  H.  Wells  will  forward  this,  and  receive  any 
communication  you  may  have  to  make. 

“Very  respectfully,  etc., 

(Signed)  “ Brigham  Young,  Governor,  etc.” 

Shortly  after  this  the  Mormons  burned  two  of  our  supply 
trains,  containing  a large  amount  of  stores  for  the  use  of  the 
troops  during  the  winter.  They  drove  off  our  cattle,  and 
committed  other  acts  of  hostility  toward  us. 

On  the  16th  of  October  I caught  some  Mormons  carrying 
supplies  to  the  parties  that  were  committing  depredations 
upon  us,  and  upon  the  person  of  one  of  them  (a  major)  I 
found  several  papers,  one  of  which  was  as  follows : 

“Head-quarters  Eastern  Expedition,) 
Camp  near  Cashecove,  Oct.  4,  1857.  ) 

“Major  Joseph  Taylor, — You  will  proceed  with  all 
possible  dispatch,  without  injuring  your  animals,  to  the  Or- 


GENERAL  WELLS’S  ORDERS. 


271 


egon  Road,  near  the  head  of  Bear  River,  north  by  east  of 
this  place.  Take  close  and  correct  observations  of  the 
country  on  your  route.  When  you  approach  the  road, 
send  scouts  ahead  to  ascertain  if  the  invading  troops  have 
passed  that  way.  Should  they  have  passed,  take  a con- 
cealed route  and  get  ahead  of  them.  Express  to  Colonel 
Burton,  who  is  now  on  that  road  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
troops,  and  effect  a junction  with  him,  so  as  to  operate  in 
concert. 

“ On  ascertaining  the  locality  or  route  of  the  troops,  pro- 
ceed at  once  to  annoy  them  in  every  possible  way.  Use 
every  exertion  to  stampede  their  animals,  and  set  fire  to 
their  trains.  Burn  the  whole  country  before  them  and  on 
their  flanks.  Keep  them  from  sleeping  by  night  surprises. 
Blockade  the  road  by  felling  trees,  or  destroying  the  fords 
when  you  can.  Watch  for  opportunities  to  set  fire  to  the 
grass  on  their  windward,  so  as,  if  possible,  to  envelop  their 
trains.  Leave  no  grass  before  them  that  can  be  burned. 
Keep  your  men  concealed  as  much  as  possible,  and  guard 
against  surprise.  Keep  scouts  out  at  all  times,  and  commu- 
nication open  with  Colonel  Burton,  Major  McAllister,  and 
O.  P.  Rockwell,  who  are  operating  in  the  same  way.  Keep 
me  advised  daily  of  your  movements,  and  every  step  the 
troops  take,  and  in  which  direction. 

“ God  bless  you  and  give  you  success. 

“Your  brother  in  Christ, 

(Signed)  “Daniel  H.  Wells. 

“P.S. — If  the  troops  have  not  passed,  or  have  turned  in 
this  direction,  follow  in  their  rear,  and  continue  to  annoy 
them,  and  stampede  or  drive  off  their  animals  at  every  op- 
portunity. D.  H.  Wells.” 

Brigham  Young,  in  an  interview  with  Captain  Yan  Yliet, 
of  the  Army,  who  was  sent  to  Salt  Lake  City  to  confer 


272 


BRIGHAM  YOUNG’S  VIEWS. 


with  the  Mormon  authorities,  complained  that  our  govern- 
ment  officials  had  taken  for  truth  ex  parte  statements,  made 
against  them  by  men  of  notoriously  immoral  characters, 
who  had  become  prejudiced  against  them  without  cause, 
and,  without  giving  them  any  opportunity  to  defend  them- 
selves, had  made  premature  decisions  adverse  to  his  people. 

He  thought  it  due  to  him  and  his  followers,  especially 
while  he  regarded  himself  as  ex  officio  the  chief  magistrate 
of  the  Territory,  to  have  given  him  a hearing.  Instead  of 
this,  he  said,  the  government  had  instituted  proceedings  of 
a most  unusual  and  rigorous  character,  sending  out  a very 
large  armed  force,  with  a menacing  aspect,  to  coerce  them 
into  subjection  to  laws  which  they  had  always  respected 
and  obeyed.  He  added,  “I  can,  with  my  people,  keep  out 
the  forces  now  approaching  us,  and  I shall  most  positively 
do  so.  No  United  States  soldier  shall  enter  this  valley. 
And  if  they  attempt  to  pass  Fort  Bridger,  I shall  first  have 
all  the  grass  between  that  point  and  this  city  burned  up. 
If  that  does  not  stop  them,  I shall  then  make  use  of  all  the 
means  within  my  control  to  resist  by  force,  if  necessary, 
their  approach.” 

Captain  Yan  Yliet  said  to  him  that  he  might  possibly 
succeed  in  keeping  out  during  the  winter  the  troops  now 
en  route,  but  that  he  must  be  a#are  that  this  step  would  be 
looked  upon  by  our  government  as  an  insult  of  no  ordi- 
nary character,  and  that  a sufficient  number  of  troops  to 
chastise  them  would  certainly  be  sent  out  in  the  spring. 

He  replied,  “I  am  conscious  of  that;  but  I have  four 
years’  supply  of  provisions  on  hand ; and  before  we  will 
submit  to  a military  rule,  we  will  burn  and  destroy  every 
house,  fence,  tree,  and  other  vestige  of  improvement  in  this 
valley,  and  retreat  to  the  mountains,  where  we  can  live  un- 
molested in  the  enjoyment  of  our  religion.” 

He  was  then  asked  how  he  would  receive  Governor 


A MORMON  WRITER. 


273 


Cummings  on  his  arrival.  He  replied,  “ I would  very  qui- 
etly place  him  in  a carriage,  and  politely  escort  him  out  of 
the  Yalley.” 

The  foregoing  proclamation,  and  orders  subsequently  is- 
sued, show  conclusively  that  Brigham  was  sincere  in  what 
he  said  to  Captain  Van  Yliet. 

The  Mormon  leaders  were  all  intensely  exercised  upon 
the  subject  of  our  approach,  and  gave  vent  to  their  feelings 
in  the  pulpit  and  in  their  papers. 

In  an  article  which  I saw  in  the  Deseret  News,  the  writer 
very  ably  and  ingeniously  set  forth  the  grievances  of  the 
Saints  from  the  time  of  Joe  Smith  up  to  that  moment.  His 
arguments  were,  however,  somewhat  specious  and  sophisti- 
cal, and  not  in  all  respects  sustained  by  fact ; as,  for  exam- 
ple, he  said  that  the  United  States  had  not  sent  armed 
forces  into  other  Territories  to  assist  the  Federal  authorities 
in  the  execution  of  law,  when  he  must  have  known  that 
troops  had  repeatedly  been  employed  in  similar  service, 
and  that  a portion  of  the  very  force  designed  for  Utah  was 
at  that  moment  detained  in  Kansas  for  precisely  the  same 
object.  He  also  said  that  the  people  of  other  Territories  had 
always  been  allowed  to  elect  their  own  rulers,  when  it  was 
known  to  every  body  that  the  people  of  the  Territories  gen- 
erally have  nothing  to  do  with  the  appointment  of  Territo- 
rial officers ; that,  on  the  contrary,  these  officers  are  in  al- 
most all  cases  selected  from  other  places,  and  sent  to  the 
Territories.  Utah,  in  that  regard,  had  been  more  favored 
than  any  other  Territory,  as  their  prophet  and  ruler  had 
been  permitted  to  occupy  the  governor’s  seat  a longer  pe- 
riod than  usual. 

In  one  of  the  numbers  of  the  Deseret  News  were  several 
speeches  made  by  the  leaders,  all  of  which  breathed  forth 
sentiments  teeming  with  war  to  the  knife.  Brigham  said 
“ he  had  always  prophesied  that  there  was  a time  coming 


274 


PULPIT  ORATORY. 


when  the  cord  that  bound  the  Saints  to  the  world  must  be 
severed,  and  when  a military  force  was  sent  to  Utah  to 
kill  him  and  his  people,  then  would  be  the  time  to  cut  it.” 

The  following  racy  specimen  of  pulpit  oratory,  although 
not  very  chaste  or  classic  in  its  character,  emanated  from 
the  fulminating  and  explosive  brain  of  that  “ father  in  Is- 
raelBrother  Heber  Kimball,  about  that  time.  It  was  in 
the  form  of  a benediction  to  his  flock. 

“May  the  Almighty  bless  you;  may  the  peace  of  God 
be  with  you,  and  with  your  children,  and  with  your  chil- 
dren’s children  forever  and  ever ; and  may  God  Almighty 
curse  our  enemies  (voices,  1 Amen  1’).  I feel  to  curse  my 
enemies;  and  when  God  won’t  bless  them,  I do  not  think 
he  will  ask  me  to  bless  them.  If  I did,  it  would  be  to  put 
the  poor  curses  to  death  who  have  brought  death  and  de- 
struction on  me  and  my  brethren,  upon  my  wives  and  chil- 
dren that  I buried  on  the  road  between  the  States  and  this 
place. 

“ Did  I ever  wrong  them  out  of  a dime  ? No ; but  I 
have  fed  thousands  when  I never  received  a dime.  Poor 
rotten  curses ! and  the  President  of  the  United  States,  in- 
asmuch as  he  has  turned  against  us,  and  will  take  a course 
to  persist  in  pleasing  the  ungodly  curses  that  are  howling 
around  him  for  the  destruction  of  this  people,  he  shall  be 
cursed  in  the  name  of  Israel’s  God ; and  I curse  him,  and 
all  his  coadjutors  in  their  cursed  deeds,  in  the  name  of 
Jesus  Christ,  and  by  the  authority  of  the  holy  priesthood, 
and  all  Israel  shall  say  ‘Amen!’ 

“ Send  two  thousand  five  hundred  troops  here,  my  breth- 
ren, to  make  a desolation  of  this  people  ! God  Almighty 
helping  me,  I will  fight  until  there  is  not  a drop  of  blood  in 
my  veins.  Good  God ! I have  wives  enough  to  whip  out 
the  United  States  ! Amen.” 

In  speaking  of  the  approach  of  the  army  upon  another 


MANNA  FOR  MORMONS. 


275 


occasion,  we  have  the  following  Biblical  illustration  from 
the  same  orator.  “ Will  we  have  manna  ? Yes,  the  United 
States  have  seven  hundred  wagons  loaded  with  about  two 
tons  to  each  wagon,  with  all  kinds  of  things , and  then 
seven  thousand  head  of  cattle ; and  there  is  said  to  be  two 
thousand  five  hundred  troops  with  this,  and  that,  and  the 
other. 

“ That  is  all  right.  Suppose  the  troops  don’t  get  here, 
but  all  these  goods  and  cattle  come  ? well,  that  would  be  a 
mighty  help  to  us  ; that  would  clothe  up  the  boys  and  girls, 
and  make  them  comfortable ; and  then  remember  there  is 
fifteen  months’  provisions  besides.  I am  only  talking  about 
this.  Suppose  it  extends  four  or  five  years,  and  they  send 
one  hundred  thousand  troops  and  provisions,  and  goods  in 
proportion,  and  every  thing  else  got  here  and  they  did  not, 
etc.,  etc.” 

The  sequel  of  the  Mormon  expedition  is  well  known  to 
the  public. 


276 


UNEXPLORED  TERRITORY. 


CHAPTER  X. 

UNEXPLORED  TERRITORY. 

Unexplored  Territory. — Lack  of  geographical  Information  in  1849. — Wagon 
Road  from  Fort  Smith. — New  Road  from  Dona  Ana. — Great  Canon  of 
the  Colorado. — Visit  of  the  Spaniards. — Mr.  Kern’s  Opinions. — Tall  Race 
of  Men. — Height  of  the  Canon. — Attempts  to  explore  it. — Splendid  Scen- 
ery. — Mineral  Considerations.  — Method  for  exploring  the  Canon  sug- 
gested. 

Previous  to  our  occupation  of  the  Territory  of  New 
Mexico  in  1846,  but  little  was  known  concerning  the  phys- 
ical features  of  the  greater  part  of  that  country,  and  almost 
the  entire  section  of  Northwestern  New  Mexico  embraced 
between  the  Rio  del  Norte  and  the  Rio  Colorado  of  Califor- 
nia had  been,  up  to  that  period,  a “ terra  incognita .”  Indeed, 
as  late  as  1849,  our  authorities  at  Washington  possessed  so 
little  information  in  regard  to  the  country  west  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte,  that  I was  ordered  to  escort  emigrants  from  Fort 
Smith,  Arkansas,  to  Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico,  under  the  sup- 
position that  there  were  direct  practicable  wagon-roads  from 
the  latter  point  to  San  Francisco ; but,  on  our  arrival  at 
Santa  Fe,  we  learned,  from  the  most  experienced  guides  of 
the  country,  that  the  most  direct  known  wagon-route  to  the 
Pacific  coast  left  the  Rio  del  Norte  some  three  hundred 
miles  below  Santa  Fe,  thus  making  a deflection  of  a right 
angle  from  the  course  which  we  had  traveled.  We  had 
discovered  and  rendered  passable  an  excellent  wagon-road 
from  the  point  of  our  departure  in  Arkansas  to  Santa  Fe, 
according  to  our  instructions,  but  the  information  regarding 
the  country  west  of  Santa  Fe  showed  conclusively  that  our 


UNEXPLORED  REGIONS. 


277 


road,  in  connection  with  that  down  the  Gila,  deviated  so 
much  from  a direct  track  across  the  continent,  that  it  would 
not  subserve  the  purposes  of  subsequent  emigration.  I 
therefore  made  inquiries  from  all  persons  I could  meet  with 
who  knew  any  thing  about  the  country  east  of  the  Del 
Norte  in  regard  to  the  practicability  of  making  a wagon- 
road  directly  back  from  the  point  on  that  river  where  the 
emigrants  turned  west  toward  the  Gila  to  Fort  Smith.  The 
greater  part  of  the  guides  of  the  country  informed  me  that 
there  were  several  ranges  of  mountains  intervening,  and 
were  of  the  opinion  that  I would  have  difficulty  in  finding 
a passage  through  them.  I,  however,  heard  of  a Comanche 
Indian,  living  among  the  Mexicans,  who  was  reported  to  be 
familiar  with  the  section  over  which  I desired  to  'pass,  and 
I consulted  him.  He  said  he  knew  the  country  as  far  east 
as  the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos,  and  that  he  could  guide 
me  over  a route  that  was  entirely  safe  for  wagons  from 
Dona  Ana  to  that  stream,  and  he  would  insure  us  water 
every  night.  Our  own  guide,  Black  Beaver,  was  confident 
. he  could  pilot  us  from  the  Brazos  to  Fort  Smith ; accord- 
ingly, we  returned  over  that  route  directly  across  the  coun- 
try indicated,  making  a most  excellent  road,  which  was 
traveled  for  several  years  afterward  by  California  emi- 
grants. 

Since  that  time  several  exploring  parties  have  traversed 
portions  of  northwestern  New  Mexico,  and  the  information 
gained  by  our  officers  who  have  campaigned  against  the 
Indians  in  that  section  has  added  greatly  to  our  stock  of 
geographical  knowledge  ; but  it  presents  such  an  exceeding- 
ly barren,  rough,  and  forbidding  aspect,  and  has  been  so 
difficult  of  access  on  account  of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians, 
that  but  few  white  men  have  ventured  into  it,  so  that  some 
portions  still  remain  unexplored.  There  is,  for  example,  a 

section  of  some  two  hundred  miles  or  more  of  the  Colorado 

2 A 


278 


THE  COLORADO  CANON. 


River  that  has  never,  so  far  as  we  have  any  record,  been 
traversed  by  a white  man,  and  that  I believe  to  be  at  the 
present  moment  about  the  only  part  of  our  vast  possessions 
of  which  we  have  not  some  knowledge. 

I refer  to  that  portion  of  the  Colorado  extending  from 
near  the  confluence  of  Grand  and  Green  Rivers,  which  is 
known  as  the  “ Big  Canon  of  the  Colorado.”  This  canon 
is  without  doubt  one  of  the  most  stupendous  freaks  of  Na- 
ture that  can  be  found  upon  the  face  of  the  earth.  It  ap- 
pears that  by  some  great  paroxysmal  convulsive  throe  in 
the  mysterious  economy  of  the  wise  laws  of  Nature,  an  ele- 
vated chain  of  mountains  has  been  reft  asunder,  as  if  to  ad- 
mit a passage  for  the  river  along  the  level  of  the  grade  at 
the  base.  ’ The  walls  of  this  majestic  defile,  so  far  as  they 
have  been  seen,  are  nearly  perpendicular ; and  although  we 
have  no  exact  data  upon  which  to  base  a positive  calcula- 
tion of  their  altitude,  yet  our  information  is  amply  suffi- 
cient to  warrant  the  assertion  that  it  far  exceeds  any  thing 
of  the  kind  elsewhere  known. 

The  first  published  account  of  this  remarkable  defile  was . 
contained  in  the  work  of  Castenada,  giving  a description  of 
the  expedition  of  Don  Francisco  Vasquez  de  Coronado  in 
search  of  the  “ seven  cities  of  Cibola”  in  1540-1. 

He  went  from  the  city  of  Mexico  to  Sonora,  and  from 
thence  penetrated  to  Cibola;  and  while  there,  dispatched 
an  auxiliary  expedition,  under  the  command  of  Don  Garcia 
Lopez  de  Cardenas,  to  explore  a river  which  emptied  into 
the  Gulf  of  California,  called  “ Rio  del  Tison ,”  and  which, 
of  course,  was  the  Rio  Colorado. 

On  reaching  the  vicinity  of  the  river,  he  found  a race  of 
natives  of  very  great  stature,  who  lived  in  subterranean 
tenements  covered  with  straw  or  grass.  He  says,  when 
these  Indians  traveled  in  cold  weather,  they  carried  in  their 
hands  a firebrand,  with  which  they  kept  themselves  warm. 


THE  COLORADO  CANON. 


279 


Captain  Sitgreaves,  who  in  1852  met  the  Mohave  In- 
dians on  the  Colorado  River,  says  “ they  are  over  six  feet 
tall and  Mr.  R.  H.  Kern,  a very  intelligent  and  reliable 
gentleman,  who  was  attached  to  the  same  expedition,  and 
visited  the  lower  part  of  the  great  canon  of  the  Colorado, 
says,  “ The  same  manners  and  customs  (as  those  described 
by  Castenada)  are  peculiar  to  all  the  different  tribes  inhab- 
iting the  valley  of  the  Colorado,  even  to  the  use  of  the 
brand  for  warming  the  body.  These  Indians,  as  a mass, 
are  the  largest  and  best-formed  men  I ever  saw,  their  aver- 
age height  being  an  inch  over  six  feet.” 

The  Spanish  explorer  says  he  traveled  for  several  days 
along  on  the  crest  of  the  lofty  bluff  bordering  the  canon, 
which  he  estimated  to  be  three  leagues  high,  and  he  found 
no  place  where  he  could  pass  down  to  the  water  from  the 
summit.  He  once  made  the  attempt  at  a place  where  but 
few  obstacles  seemed  to  interfere  with  the  descent,  and 
started  three  of  his  most  active  men.  They  were  gone  the 
greater  part  of  the  day,  and  on  their  return  informed  him 
that  they  had  only  succeeded  in  reaching  a rock  about  one 
third  the  distance  down.  This  rock,  he  says,  appeared  from 
the  top  of  the  canon  about  six  feet  high,  but  they  informed 
him  that  it  was  as  high  as  the  spire  of  the  cathedral  at  Se- 
ville in  Spain. 

The  river  itself  looked,  from  the  summit  of  the  canon,  to 
be  something  like  a fathom  in  width,  but  the  Indians  as- 
sured him  it  was  half  a league  wide. 

Antoine  Lereux,  one  of  the  most  reliable  and  best-in- 
formed guides  in  New  Mexico,  told  me  in  1858  that  he  had 
once  been  at  a point  of  this  canon  where  he  estimated  the 
walls  to  be  three  miles  high. 

Mr.  Kern  says,  in  speaking  of  the  Colorado:  “No  other 
river  in  North  America  passes  through  a canon  equal  in 
depth  to  the  one  alluded  to.  The  description  (Castenada’s) 


280 


LIEUTENANT  IVES’S  EXPEDITION. 


is  made  out  with  rare  truth  and  force.  We  had  a view  of 
it  from  the  San  Francisco  Mountain,  N.  M.,  and,  judging 
from  our  own  elevation,  and  the  character  of  the  interven- 
ing country,  I have  no  doubt  the  walls  are  at  least  five 
thousand  feet  in  height.” 

The  mountaineers  in  Utah  told  me  that  a party  of  trap- 
pers many  years  since  built  a large  row-boat  and  made 
the  attempt  to  descend  the  river  through  the  defile  of  the 
canon,  but  were  never  heard  from  afterward.  They  prob- 
ably dashed  their  boat  in  pieces,  and  were  lost  by  being 
precipitated  over  sunken  rocks  or  elevated  falls. 

In  185-  Lieutenant  Ives,  of  the  United  States’  Engineers, 
was  ordered  to  penetrate  the  canon  with  a steamer  of  light 
draught.  He  ascended  the  river  from  the  Gulf  as  high  as 
a little  above  the  mouth  of  the  gorge,  but  there  encountered 
rapids  and  other  obstacles  of  so  serious  a character  that  he 
was  forced  to  turn  back  and  abandon  the  enterprise,  and 
no  other  efforts  have  since  been  made  under  government 
auspices  to  explore  it. 

A thorough  examination  of  this  .canon  might,  in  my 
opinion,  be  made  by  taking  small  row-boats  and  ascending 
the  river  from  the  debouche  of  the  gorge  at  a low  stage  of 
water.  In  this  way  there  would  be  no  danger  of  being  car- 
ried over  dangerous  rapids  or  falls,  and  the  boats  could  be 
carried  around  difficult  passages.  Such  an  exploration 
could  not,  in  my  judgment,  prove  otherwise  than  intensely 
interesting,  as  the  scenery  here  must  surpass  in  grandeur 
any  other  in  the  universe. 

Wherever  we  find  rivers  flowing  through  similar  forma- 
tions elsewhere,  as  at  the  “ daUes ” of  the  Columbia  and  Wis- 
consin Rivers,  and  in  the  great  canons  of  Red  and  Canadian 
Rivers,  although  the  escarpments  at  those  places  have  noth- 
ing like  the  altitude  of  those  upon  the  Colorado,  yet  the 
long-continued  erosive  action  of  the  water  upon  the  rock 


GOLD  AND  SILVER. 


281 


has  produced  the  most  novel  and  interesting  combinations 
of  beautiful  pictures.  Imagine,  then,  what  must  be  the  ef- 
fect of  a large  stream  like  the  Colorado  traversing  for  two 
hundred  miles  a defile  with  the  perpendicular  walls  tower- 
ing five  thousand  feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river.  It  is  im- 
possible that  it  should  not  contribute  largely  toward  the 
formation  of  scenery  surpassing  in  sublimity  and  pictur- 
esque character  any  other  in  the  world.  Our  landscape 
painters  would  here  find  rare  subjects  for  their  study,  and 
I venture  to  hope  that  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  some 
of  the  most  enterprising  of  them  may  be  induced  to  pene- 
trate this  new  field  of  art  in  our  only  remaining  unexplored 
territory.  I am  confident  they  would  be  abundantly  re- 
warded for  their  trouble  and  exposure,  and  would  find 
subjects  for  the  exercise  of  genius,  the  sublimity  of  which 
the  most  vivid  imaginations  of  the  old  masters  never 
dreamed  of. 

A consideration,  however,  of  vastly  greater  financial  and 
national  importance  than  those  alluded  to  above,  which 
might,  and  probably  would  result  from  a thorough  explo- 
ration of  this  part  of  the  river,  is  the  development  of  its 
mineral  wealth. 

In  1849  I met  in  Santa  Fe  that  enterprising  pioneer,  Mr. 
F.  X.  Aubrey,  who  had  just  returned  from  California,  and 
en  route  had  crossed  the  Colorado  near  the  outlet  of  the  Big 
Carton , where  he  met  some  Indians,  with  whom,  as  he  in- 
formed me,  he  exchanged  leaden  for  golden  rifle-balls,  and 
these  Indians  did  not  appear  to  have  the  slightest  apprecia- 
tion of  the  relative  value  of  the  two  metals. 

That  gold  and  silver  abound  in  that  region  is  fully  estab- 
lished, as  those  metals  have  been  found  in  many  localities 
both  east  and  west  of  the  Colorado.  Is  it  not,  therefore, 
probable  that  the  walls  of  this  gigantic  crevice  will  exhibit 
many  rich  deposits?  Companies  are  formed  almost  daily, 

2 A* 


282 


EL  DORADO. 


and  large  amounts  of  money  and  labor  expended  in  sink- 
ing shafts  of  one,  two,  and  three  hundred  feet,  with  the  con- 
fident expectation  of  finding  mineral  deposits ; but  here  Na- 
ture has  opened  and  exposed  to  view  a continuous  shaft 
two  hundred  miles  in  length  and  five  thousand  feet  in 
depth.  In  the  one  case  we  have  a small  shaft  blasted  out 
at  great  expense  *by  manual  labor,  showing  a surface  of 
about  thirty-six  hundred  feet,  while  here  Nature  gratuitous- 
ly exhibits  ten  thousand  millions  of  feet  extending  into  the 
very  bowels  of  the  earth. 

Is  it,  then,  at  all  without  the  scope  of  rational  conjecture 
to  predict  that  such  an  immense  development  of  the  interi- 
or strata  of  the  earth — such  a huge  gulch,  if  I may  be  al- 
lowed the  expression,  extending  so  great  a distance  through 
the  heart  of  a country  as  rich  as  this  in  the  precious  met- 
als, may  yet  prove  to  be  the  El  Dorado  which  the  early 
Spanish  explorers  so  long  and  so  fruitlessly  sought  for ; and 
who  knows  but  that  the  government  might  here  find  a 
source  of  revenue  sufficient  to  liquidate  our  national  debt  ? 

Regarding  the  exploration  of  this  river  as  highly  import- 
ant in  a national  aspect,  I in  1858  submitted  a paper  upon 
the  subject  to  the  War  Department,  setting  forth  my  views 
somewhat  in  detail,  and  offering  my  services  to  perform  the 
work ; but  there  was  then  no  appropriation  which  could  be 
applied  to  that  object,  and  the  Secretary  of  War  for  this 
reason  declined  ordering  it. 


HUNTING. 


283 


CHAPTER  XI. 

HUNTING. 

Hunting. — Its  Benefits  to  the  Soldier. — Disposition  of  Fire-arms. — Nama- 
quas.  — Tracking.  — Horse  Tracks.  — Elk  Hunt.  — Faculties  of  Indians. 
— Deer  Hunting. — Rifles. — Antelope. — Bear. — Lassoing  Grizzlies. — Am- 
ateur Sportsman. — Big-Horn. — Buffalo. — Rapidly  diminishing. — H.  H. 
Sibley’s  Remarks. — Range  of  the  Buffalo.  — Chasing  on  Horseback. — 
Stalking. — Winter  Hunting. — The  Beaver. — The  Prairie  Dog. — Hints  to 
Sportsmen. 

I know  of  no  better  school  of  practice  for  perfecting  men 
in  target-firing,  and  the  use  of  fire-arms  generally,  than  that 
in  which  the  frontier  hunter  receives  his  education.  One 
of  the  first  and  most  important  lessons  that  he  is  taught  im- 
presses him  with  the  conviction  that,  unless  his  gun  is  in 
good  order  and  steadily  directed  upon  the  game,  he  must 
go  without  his  supper ; and  if  ambition  does  not  stimulate 
his  efforts,  his  appetite  will,  and  ultimately  lead  to  success 
and  confidence  in  his  own  powers. 

The  man  who  is  afraid  to  place  the  butt  of  his  piece 
firmly  against  his  shoulder,  or  who  turns  away  his  head  at 
the  instant  of  pulling  trigger  (as  soldiers  often  do  before 
they  have  been  drilled  at  target-practice),  will  not  be  likely 
to  bag  much  game  or  to  contribute  materially  toward  the 
result  of  a battle.  The  successful  hunter,  as  a general  rule, 
is  a good  shot,  will  always  charge  his  gun  properly,  and 
may  be  relied  upon  in  action.  I would,  therefore,  when  in 
garrison  or  at  permanent  camps,  encourage  officers  and  sol- 
diers in  field-sports.  If  permitted,  men  very  readily  culti- 
vate a fondness  for  these  innocent  and  healthy  exercises, 


284 


HUNTERS  AND  SOLDIERS. 


and  occupy  their  leisure  time  in  their  pursuit ; whereas,  if 
confined  to  the  narrow  limits  of  a frontier  camp  or  garrison, 
having  no  amusements  within  their  reach,  they  are  prone 
to  indulge  in  practices  which  are  highly  detrimental  to 
their  physical  and  moral  condition. 

By  making  short  excursions  about  the  country  they  ac- 
quire a knowledge  of  it,  become  inured  to  fatigue,  learn  the 
art  of  bivouacking,  trailing,  etc.,  etc.,  all  of  which  will  be 
found  serviceable  in  border  warfare ; and,  even  if  they 
should  perchance  now  and  then  miss  some  of  the  minor 
routine  duties  of  the  garrison,  the  benefits  they  would  de- 
rive from  hunting  would,  in  my  opinion,  more  than  coun- 
terbalance its  effects.  Under  the  old  regime  it  was  thought 
that  drills,  dress-parades,  and  guard-mountings  comprehend- 
ed the  sum  total  of  the  soldier’s  education,  but  the  experi- 
ence of  the  last  ten  years  has  taught  us  that  these  are  only 
the  rudiments,  and  that  to  combat  successfully  with  Indians 
we  must  receive  instruction  from  them,  study  their  tactics, 
and,  where  they  suit  our  purposes,  copy  from  them. 

The  union  of  discipline  with  the  individuality,  self-reli- 
ance, and  rapidity  of  locomotion  of  the  savage  is  what  we 
should  aim  at.  This  will  be  the  tendency  of  the  course  in- 
dicated, and  it  is  believed  by  the  writer  that  an  army  com- 
posed of  well-disciplined  hunters  will  be  the  most  efficient 
of  all  others  against  the  only  enemy  we  now  have  to  en- 
counter within  the  limits  of  our  vast  possessions. 

I find  some  pertinent  remarks  upon  this  subject  in  a 
very  sensible  essay  by  “ a late  captain  of  infantry”  (U.  S.). 
He  says : 

“ It  is  conceived  that  scattered  bands  of  mounted  hunt- 
ers, with  the  speed  of  a horse  and  the  watchfulness  of  a 
wolf  or  antelope,  whose  faculties  are  sharpened  by  their  ne- 
cessities ; who,  when  they  get  short  of  provisions,  separate 
and  look  for  something  to  eat,  and  find  it  in  the  water,  in 


HUNTING  TO  BE  ENCOURAGED. 


285 


the  ground,  or  on  the  surface ; whose  bill  of  fare  ranges 
from  grass-seed,  nuts,  roots,  grasshoppers,  lizards,  and  rat- 
tlesnakes up  to  the  antelope,  deer,  elk,  bear,  and  buffalo, 
and  who  have  a continent  to  roam  over,  will  be  neither  sur- 
prised, caught,  conquered,  overawed,  or  reduced  to  famine 
by  a rumbling,  bugle-blowing,  drum-beating  town  passing 
through  their  country  on  wheels  at  the  speed  of  a loaded 
wagon. 

“ If  the  Indians  are  in  the  path  and  do  not  wish  to  be 
seen,  they  cross  a ridge,  and  the  town  moves  on,  ignorant 
whether  there  are  fifty  Indians  within  a mile  or  no  Indian 
within  fifty  miles.  If  the  Indians  wish  to  see,  they  return 
to  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  crawl  up  to  the  edge,  pull  up  a 
bunch  of  grass  by  the  roots,  and  look  through  or  under  it 
at  the  procession.” 

Although  I would  always  encourage  men  in  hunting 
when  permanently  located,  yet,  unless  they  are  good  woods- 
men, it  is  not  safe  to  permit  them  to  go  out  alone  in  march- 
ing through  the  Indian  country,  as,  aside  from  the  danger 
of  encountering  Indians,  they  would  be  liable  to  become 
bewildered  and  perhaps  lost,  and  this  might  detain  the  en- 
tire party  in  searching  for  them.  The  better  plan  upon  a 
march  is  for  three  or  four  to  go  out  together,  accompanied 
by  a good  woodsman,  who  will  be  able  with  certainty  to 
lead  them  back  to  camp. 

The  little  group  could  ascertain  if  Indians  are  about,  and 
would  be  strong  enough  to  act  on  the  defensive  against 
small  parties  of  them ; and,  while  they  are  amusing  them- 
selves, they  may  perform  an  important  part  as  scouts  and 
flankers. 

An  expedition  may  have  been  perfectly  organized,  and 
every  thing  provided  that  the  wisest  forethought  could  sug- 
gest, yet  circumstances  beyond  the  control  of  the  most  ex- 
perienced traveler  may  sometimes  arise  to  defeat  the  best 


286 


DISPOSITION  OF  ARMS. 


concerted  plans.  It  is  not,  for  example,  an  impossible  con- 
tingency that  the  traveler  may,  by  unforeseen  delays,  con- 
sume his  provisions,  lose  them  in  crossing  streams,  or  have 
them  stolen  by  hostile  Indians,  and  be  reduced  to  the  ne- 
cessity of  depending  upon  game  for  subsistence.  Under 
these  circumstances,  a few  observations  upon  the  habits  of 
the  different  animals  that  frequent  the  Plains,  and  on  the 
best  methods  of  hunting  them,  may  not  be  altogether  de- 
void of  interest  or  utility  in  this  connection. 

Previous  to  describing  the  methods  of  hunting  the  differ- 
ent animals,  I propose  to  give  a few  useful  hints  regarding 
fire-arms,  and  other  items  of  information  which  will  be 
found  important  to  those  who  should  have  occasion  to  go 
out  into  the  Plains.  First  I notice  the  disposition  of  fire- 
arms. 

The  mountaineers  and  trappers  exercise  a very  wise  pre- 
caution, on  lying  down  for  the  night,  by  placing  their  arms 
and  ammunition  by  their  sides,  where  they  can  be  seized  at 
a moment’s  notice.  This  rule  is  never  departed  from,  and 
they  are  therefore  seldom  liable  to  be  surprised.  In  Par- 
ky ns’s  “ Abyssinia”  I find  the  following  remarks  upon  this 
, subject : 

“When  getting  sleepy,  you  return  your  rifle  between 
your  legs,  roll  over,  and  go  to  sleep.  Some  people  may 
think  this  is  a queer  place  for  a rifle ; but,  on  the  contrary, 
it  is  the  position  of  all  others  where  utility  and  comfort  are 
most  combined.  The  butt  rests  on  the  arm,  and  serves  as 
a pillow  for  the  head ; the  muzzle  points  between  the  knees, 
and  the  arms  encircle  the  lock  and  breech,  so  that  you  have 
a smooth  pillow,  and  are  always  prepared  to  start  up  armed 
at  a moment’s  notice.” 

I have  never  made  the  experiment  of  sleeping  in  this 
way,  but  I should  imagine  that  a gun-stock  would  make 
rather  a hard  pillow. 


ARMY  AND  NAVY  REVOLVERS. 


287 


Many  of  our  experienced  frontier  officers  prefer  carrying 
their  pistols  in  a belt  at  their  sides  to  placing  them  in  hol- 
sters attached  to  the  saddle,  as  in  the  former  case  they  are 
always  at  hand  when  they  are  dismounted;  whereas,  by 
the  other  plan,  they  become  useless  when  a man  is  un- 
horsed, unless  he  has  time  to  remove  them  from  the  saddle, 
which,  during  the  excitement  of  an  action,  would  seldom  be 
the  case. 

Notwithstanding  Colt’s  army  and  navy  sized  revolvers 
have  been  in  use  for  a long  time  in  our  army,  officers  are 
by  no  means  of  one  mind  as  to  their  relative  merits  for 
frontier  service.  The  navy  pistol,  being  more  light  and 
portable,  is  more  convenient  for  the  belt,  but  it  is  very 
questionable  in  my  mind  whether  these  qualities  counter- 
balance the  advantages  derived  from  the  greater  weight  of 
powder  and  lead  that  can  be  fired  from  the  larger  pistol, 
and  the  consequent  increased  projectile  force. 

This  point  is  illustrated  by  an  incident  which  fell  under 
my  own  observation.  In  passing  near  the  “ Medicine-Bow 
Butte”  during  the  spring  of  1858, 1 most  unexpectedly  en- 
countered and  fired  at  a full-grown  grizzly  bear;  but,  as 
my  horse  had  become  somewhat  blown  by  a previous  gal- 
lop, his  breathing  so  much  disturbed  my  aim  that  I missed 
the  animal  at  the  short  distance  of  about  fifty  yards,  and 
he  ran  off.  Fearful,  if  I stopped  to  reload  my  rifle,  the  bear 
would  make  his  escape,  I resolved  to  drive  him  back  to  the 
advanced  guard  of  our  escort,  which  I could  see  approach- 
ing in  the  distance ; this  I succeeded  in  doing,  when  sever- 
al mounted  men,  armed  with  the  navy  revolvers,  set  off  in 
pursuit.  They  approached  within  a few  paces,  and  dis- 
charged ten  or  twelve  shots,  the  most  of  which  entered  the 
animal,  but  he  still  kept  on,  and  his  progress  did  not  seem 
materially  impeded  by  the  wounds.  After  these  men  had 
exhausted  their  charges,  another  man  rode  up  armed  with 


288 


CARRYING  FIRE-ARMS. 


the  army  revolver,  and  fired  two  shots,  which  brought  the 
stalwart  beast  to  the  ground.  Upon  skinning  him  and 
making  an  examination  of  the  wounds,  it  was  discovered 
that  none  of  the  balls  from  the  small  pistols  had,  -after  pass- 
ing through  his  thick  and  tough  hide,  penetrated  deeper 
than  about  an  inch  into  the  flesh,  but  that  the  two  balls 
from  the  large  pistol  had  gone  into  the  vitals  and  killed 
him.  This  test  was  to  my  mind  a decisive  one  as  to  the 
relative  efficiency  of  the  two  arms  for  frontier  service,  and 
I resolved  thenceforth  to  carry  the  larger  size. 

Several  different  methods  are  practiced  in  slinging  and 
carrying  fire-arms  upon  horseback.  The  shoulder-strap, 
with  a swivel  to  hook  into  a ring  behind  the  guard,  with 
the  muzzle  resting  downward  in  a leather  cup  attached  by 
a strap  to  the  same  staple  as  the  stirrup-leather,  is  a very 
handy  method  for  cavalry  soldiers  to  sling  their  carbines; 
but,  the  gun  being  reversed,  the  jolting  caused  by  the  mo- 
tion of  the  horse  tends  to  move  the  charge  and  shake  the 
powder  out  of  the  cone,  which  renders  it  liable  to  burst  the 
gun  and  to  miss  fire. 

An  invention  of  the  fNamaquas,  in  Africa,  described  by 
Galton  in  his  Art  of  Travel,  is  as  follows : 

“ Sew  a bag  of  canvas,  leather,  or  hide,  of  such  bigness  as 
to  admit  the  butt  of  the  gun  pretty  freely.  The  straps  that 
support  it  buckle  through  a ring  in  the  pommel,  and  the 
thongs  by  which  its  slope  is  adjusted  fasten  round  the  girth 
below.  The  exact  adjustments  may  not  be  hit  upon  by  an 
unpracticed  person  for  some  little  time,  but,  when  they  are 
once  ascertained,  the  straps  need  never  be  shifted.  The  gun 
is-  perfectly  safe,  and  never  comes  below  the  arm-pit,  even 
in  taking  a drop  leap ; it  is  pulled  out  in  an  instant  by  bring- 
ing the  elbow  in  front  of  the  gun  and  close  to  the  side,  so 
as  to  throw  the  gun  to  the  outside  of  the  arm ; then,  lower- 
ing the  hand,  the  gun  is  caught  up.  It  is  a bungling  way 


ACCIDENTS  FROM  FIRE-ARMS. 


289 


to  take  out  the  gun  while  its  barrel  lies  between  the  arm 
and  the  body.  Any  sized  gun  can  be  carried  in  this  fash- 
ion. It  offers  no  obstacle  to  mounting  or  dismounting.” 

This  may  be  a convenient  way  of  carrying  the  gun ; I 
have  never  tried  it.  Of  all  methods  I have  used,  I prefer, 
for  hunting,  a piece  of  leather  about  twelve  inches  by  four, 
with  a hole  cut  in  each  end ; one  of  the  ends  is  placed  over 
the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  and  with  a buckskin  string  made 
fast  to  it,  where  it  remains  a permanent  fixture.  When  the 
rider  is  mounted,  he  places  his  gun  across  the  strap  upon 
the  saddle,  and  carries  the  loose  end  forward  over  the  pom- 
mel, the  gun  resting  horizontally  across  his  legs.  It  will 
now  only  be  necessary  occasionally  to  steady  the  gun  with 
the  hand.  After  a little  practice  the  rider  will  be  able  to 
control  it  with  his  knees,  and  it  will  be  found  a very  easy 
and  convenient  method  of  carrying  it.  When  required  for 
use,  it  is  taken  out  in  an  instant  by  simply  raising  it  with 
the  hand,  when  the  loose  end  of  the  strap  comes  off  the 
pommel. 

The  chief  causes  of  accidents  from  the  use  of  fire-arms 
arise  from  carelessness,  and  I have  always  observed  that 
those  persons  who  are  most  familiar  with  their  use  are  in- 
variably the  most  careful.  Many  accidents  have  happened 
from  carrying  guns  with  the  cock  down  upon  the  cap. 
When  in  this  position,  a blow  upon  the  cock,  and  some- 
times the  concussion  produced  by  the  falling  of  the  gun, 
will  explode  the  cap;  and,  occasionally,  when  the  cock 
catches  a twig,  or  in  the  clothes,  and  lifts  it  from  the  cap,  it 
will  explode.  With  a gun  at  half-cock  there  is  but  little 
danger  of  such  accidents ; for,  when  the  cock  is  drawn  back, 
it  either  comes  to  the  fujl-cock,  and  remains,  or  it  returns 
to  the  half-cock,  but  does  not  go  down  upon  the  cone.  An- 
other source  of  very  many  sad  and  fatal  accidents  resulting 
from  the  most  stupid  and  culpable  carelessness  is  in  persons 


290 


CAPTAIN  SCOTT'S  ADVICE. 


standing  before  the  muzzles  of  guns  and  attempting  to  pull 
them  out  of  wagons,  or  to  draw  them  through  a fence  or 
brush  in  the  same  position.  If  the  cock  encounters  an  ob- 
stacle in  its  passage,  it  will,  of  course,  be  drawn  back  and 
fall  upon  the  cap.  These  accidents  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence, and  the  cause  is  well  understood  by  all,  yet  men  con- 
tinue to  disregard  it,  and  their  lives  pay  the  penalty  of  their 
indiscretion.  It  is  a wise  maxim,  which  applies  with  espe- 
cial force  in  campaigning  on  the  prairies,  “ Always  look  to 
your  gun , but  never  let  your  gun  look  at  you .” 

An  equally  important  maxim  might  be  added  to  this : 
Never  to  point  your  gun  at  another , whether  charged  or  un- 
charged, and  never  allow  another  to  point  his  gun  at  you. 
Young  men,  before  they  become  accustomed  to  the  use  of 
arms,  are  very  apt  to  be  careless,  and  a large  percentage  of 
gun  accidents  may  be  traced  to  this  cause.  That  finished 
sportsman  and  wonderful  shot,  my  friend  Captain  Martin 
Scott,  than  whom  a more  gallant  soldier  never  fought  a 
battle,  was  the  most  careful  man  with  fire  - arms  I ever 
knew,  and  up  to  the  time  he  received  his  death -wound 
upon  the  bloody  field  of  Molino  del  Key  he  never  ceased 
his  cautionary  advice  to  young  officers  upon  this  subject. 
His  extended  experience  and  intimate  acquaintance  with 
the  use  of  arms  had  fully  impressed  him  with  its  import- 
ance, and  no  man  ever  lived  whose  opinions  upon  this  sub- 
ject should  carry  greater  weight.  As  incomprehensible  as 
it  may  appear  to  persons  accustomed  to  the  use  of  fire-arms, 
recruits  are  very  prone,  before  they  have  been  drilled  at 
target  practice  with  ball  cartridges,  to  place  the  ball  below 
the  powder  in  the  piece.  Officers  conducting  detachments 
through  the  Indian  country  should  therefore  give  their 
special  attention  to  this,  and  require  the  recruits  to  tear  the 
cartridge  and  pour  all  the  powder  into  the  piece  before  the 
ball  is  inserted. 


TRACKING. 


291 


As  accidents  often  occur  in  camp  from  the  accidental 
discharge  of  fire-arms  that  have  been  capped,  I would  rec- 
ommend that  the  arms  be  continually  kept  loaded  in  cam- 
paigning, but  the  caps  not  placed  upon  the  cones  until  they 
are  required  for  firing.  This  will  cause  but  little  delay  in 
an  action,  and  will  conduce  much  to  security  from  accidents. 

When  loaded  fire-arms  have  been  exposed  for  any  con- 
siderable time  to  a moist  atmosphere,  they  should  be  dis- 
charged, or  the  cartridges  drawn,  and  the  arms  thoroughly 
cleaned,  dried,  and  oiled.  Too  much  attention  can  not  be 
given  in  keeping  arms  in  perfect  firing  order. 

TRACKING. 

I know  of  nothing  in  the  woodman’s  education  of  so 
much  importance,  or  so  difficult  to  acquire,  as  the  art  of 
trailing  or  tracking  men  and  animals.  To  become  an  adept 
in  this  art  requires  the  constant  practice  of  years,  and  with 
some  men  a life-time  does  not  suffice  to  learn  it. 

Almost  all  the  Indians  whom  I have  met  with  are  profi- 
cient in  this  species  of  knowledge,  the  faculty  for  acquiring 
which  appears  to  be  innate  with  them.  Exigencies  of 
woodland  and  prairie  life  stimulate  the  savage  from  child- 
hood to  develop  faculties  so  important  in  the  arts  of  war 
and  of  the  chase. 

I have  seen  very  few  white  men  who  were  good  trailers,* 
and  practice  did  not  seem  very  materially  to  improve  their 
faculties  in  this  regard ; they  have  not  the  same  acute  per- 
ceptions for  these  things  as  the  Indian  or  the  Mexican.  It 
is  not  apprehended  that  this  difficult  branch  of  woodcraft 
can  be  taught  from  books,  as  it  pertains  almost  exclusively 
to  the  school  of  practice,  yet  I will  give  some  facts  relating 
to  the  habits  of  the  Indians  that  will  facilitate  its  acquire- 
ments. 

A party  of  Indians,  for  example,  starting  out  upon  a war 


292 


FOLLOWING  TRAILS. 


excursion,  leave  their  families  behind,  and  never  transport 
their  lodges ; whereas,  when  they  move  with  their  families, 
they  carry  their  lodges  and  other  effects.  If,  therefore,  an 
Indian  trail  is  discovered  with  the  marks  of  the  lodge-poles 
upon  it,  it  has  certainly  not  been  made  by  a war-party;  but 
if  the  track  do  not  show  the  trace  of  lodge-poles,  it  will  be 
equally  certain  that  a war  or  hunting  party  has  passed  that 
way,  and  if  it  is  not  desired  to  come  in  conflict  with  them, 
their  direction  may  be  avoided.  Mustangs  or  wild  horses, 
when  moving  from  place  to  place,  leave  a trail  which  is 
sometimes  difficult  to  distinguish  from  that  made  by  a 
mounted  party  of  Indians,  especially  if  the  mustangs  do 
not  stop  to  graze.  This  may  be  determined  by  following 
upon  the  trail  until  some  dung  is  found,  and  if  this  should 
lie  in  a single  pile,  it  is  a sure  indication  that  a herd  of 
mustangs  has  passed,  as  they  always  stop  to  relieve  them- 
selves, while  a party  of  Indians  would  keep  their  horses  in 
motion,  and  the  ordure  would  be  scattered  along  the  road. 
If  the  trail  pass  through  woodland,  the  mustang  will  occa- 
sionally go  under  the  limbs  of  trees  too  low  to  admit  the 
passage  of  a man  on  horseback. 

An  Indian,  on  coming  to  a trail,  will  generally  tell  at  a 
glance  its  age,  by  what  particular  tribe  it  was  made,  the 
number  of  the  party,  and  many  other  things  connected  with 
it  astounding  to  the  uninitiated. 

I remember,  upon  one  occasion,  as  I was  riding  with  a 
Delaware  upon  the  prairies,  we  crossed  the  trail  of  a large 
party  of  Indians  traveling  with  lodges.  The  tracks  appear- 
ed to  me  quite  fresh,  and  I remarked  to  the  Indian  that  we 
must  be  near  the  party.  “Oh  no,”  said  he,  “the  trail  was 
made  two  days  before,  in  the  morning,”  at  the  same  time 
pointing  with  his  finger  to  where  the  sun  would  be  at  about 
eight  o’clock.  Then,  seeing  that  my  curiosity  was  excited 
to  know  by  what  means  he  arrived  at  this  conclusion,  he 


A BEAR-TRACK. 


293 


called  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  there  had  been  no  dew 
for  the  last  two  nights,  but  that  on  the  previous  morning  it 
had  been  heavy.  He  then  pointed  out  to  me  some  spears 
of  grass  that  had  been  pressed  down  into  the  earth  by  the 
horses’  hoofs,  upon  which  the  sand  still  adhered,  having 
dried  on,  thus  clearly  showing  that  the  grass  was  wet  when 
the  tracks  were  made. 

At  another  time,  as  I was  traveling  with  the  same  Indian, 
I discovered  upon  the  ground  what  I took  to  be  a bear- 
track,  with  a distinctly-marked  impression  of  the  heel  and 
all  the  toes.  I immediately  called  the  Indian’s  attention  to 
it,  at  the  same  time' flattering  myself  that  I had  made  quite 
an  important  discovery,  which  had  escaped  his  observation. 
The  fellow  remarked  with  a smile,  “Oh  no,  captain,  maybe 
so  he  not  bear-track.”  He  then  pointed  with  his  gun-rod 
to  some  spears  of  grass  that  grew  near  the  impression,  but  I 
did  not  comprehend  the  mystery  until  he  dismounted  and 
explained  to  me  that,  when  the  wind  was  blowing,  the 
spears  of  grass  would  be  bent  over  toward  the  ground,  and 
the  oscillating  motion  thereby  produced  would  scoop  out 
the  loose  sand  into  the  shape  I have  described.  The  truth 
of  this  explanation  was  apparent,  yet  it  occurred  to  me  that 
its  solution  would  have  baffled  the  wits  of  most  white  men. 

Fresh  tracks  generally  show  moisture  where  the  earth 
has  been  turned  up,  but  after  a short  exposure  to  the  sun 
they  become  dry.  If  the  tracks  be  very  recent,  the  sand 
may  sometimes,  where  it  is  very  loose  and  dry,  be  seen  run- 
ning back  into  the  tracks,  and  by  following  them  to  a place 
where  they  cross  water,  the  earth  will  be  wet  for  some  dis- 
tance after  they  leave  it.  The  droppings  of  the  dung  from 
animals  are  also  good  indications  of  the  age  of  a trail.  It 
is  well  to  remember  whether  there  have  been  any  rains 
within  a few  days,  as  the  age  of  a trail  may  sometimes  be 
conjectured  in  this  way.  It  is  very  easy  to  tell  whether 

2 B* 


294 


INDIANS  IN  FLIGHT. 


tracks  have  been  made  before  or  after  a rain,  as  the  water 
washes  off  all  the  sharp  edges. 

It  is  not  a difficult  matter  to  distinguish  the  tracks  of 
American  horses  from  those  of  Indian  horses,  as  the  latter 
are  never  shod ; moreover,  they  are  much  smaller. 

In  trailing  horses,  there  will  be  no  trouble  while  the 
ground  is  soft,  as  the  impressions  they  leave  will  then  be 
deep  and  distinct ; but  when  they  pass  over  hard  or  rocky 
ground,  it  is  sometimes  a very  slow  and  troublesome  pro- 
cess to  follow  them.  Where  there  is  grass,  the  trace  can  be 
seen  for  a considerable  time,  as  the  grass  will  be  trodden 
down  and  bent  in  the  direction  the  party  has  moved; 
should  the  grass  have  returned  to  its  upright  position,  the 
trail  can  often  be  distinguished  by  standing  upon  it  and 
looking  ahead  for  some  distance  in  the  direction  it  has  been 
pursuing ; the  grass  that  has  been  turned  over  will  show  a 
different  shade  of  green  from  that  around  it,  and  this  often 
marks  a trail  for  a long  time. 

Should  all  traces  of  the  track  be  obliterated  in  certain 
localities,  it  is  customary  with  the  Indians  to  follow  on  in 
the  direction  it  has  been  pursuing  for  a time,  and  it  is  quite 
probable  that  in  some  place  where  the  ground  is  more  fa- 
vorable it  will  show  itself  again.  Should  the  trail  not  be 
recovered  in  this  way,  they  search  for  a place  where  the 
earth  is  soft,  and  make  a careful  examination,  embracing 
the  entire  area  where  it  is  likely  to  run. 

Indians  who  find  themselves  pursued  and  wish  to  escape, 
scatter  as  much  as  possible,  with  an  understanding  that 
they  are  to  meet  again  at  some  point  in  advance,  so  that,  if 
the  pursuing  party  follows  any  one  of  the  tracks,  it  will  in- 
variably lead  to  the  place  of  rendezvous.  If,  for  example, 
the  trail  points  in  the  direction  of  a mountain  pass,  or  to- 
ward any  other  place  which  affords  the  only  passage 
through  a particular  section  of  country,  it  would  not  be 


HORSE-TRACKS. 


295 


worth  while  to  spend  much  time  in  hunting  it,  as  it  would 
probably  be  regained  at  the  pass. 

As  it  is  important  in  trailing  Indians  to  know  at  what 
gaits  they  are  traveling,  and  as  the  appearance  of  the  tracks 
of  horses  are  not  familiar  to  all,  I have  in  the  following  cut 


HORSE-TRACKS  AT  ORDINARY  SPEED. 


represented  the  prints  made  by  the  hoofs  at  the  ordinal 
speed  of  the  walk,  trot,  and  gallop,  so  that  persons,  in  fol- 


296 


POINTS  OF  COMPASS. 


lowing  the  trail  of  Indians,  may  form  an  idea  as  to  the 
probability  of  overtaking  them,  and  regulate  their  move- 
ments accordingly. 

In  traversing  a district  of  unknown  country  where  there 
are  no  prominent  landmarks,  and  with  the  view  of  return- 
ing to  the  point  of  departure,  a pocket  compass  should  al- 
ways be  carried,  and  attached  by  a string  to  a button-hole 
of  the  coat,  to  prevent  its  being  lost  or  mislaid;  and  on 
starting  out,  as  well  as  frequently  during  the  trip,  take 
the  bearing,  and  examine  the  appearance  of  the  country 
when  facing  toward  the  starting-point,  as  a landscape  pre- 
sents a very  different  aspect  when  viewed  from  opposite 
directions.  There  are  few  white  men  who  can  retrace  their 
steps  for  any  great  distance  unless  they  take  the  above  pre- 
cautions in  passing  over  an  unknown  country  for  the  first 
time ; but  with  the  Indians  it  is  different ; the  sense  of  lo- 
cality seems  to  be  innate  with  them,  and  they  do  not  re- 
quire the  aid  of  the  magnetic  needle  to  guide  them. 

Upon  a certain  occasion,  when  I had  made  a long  march 
over  an  unexplored  section,  and  was  returning  upon  an  en- 
tirely different  route  without  either  road  or  trail,  a Dela- 
ware, by  the  name  of  “Black  Beaver,”  who  was  in  my  par- 
ty, on  arriving  at  a particular  point,  suddenly  halted,  and, 
turning  to  me,  asked  if  I recognized  the  country  before*  us. 
Seeing  no  familiar  objects,  I replied  in  the  negative.  He 
put  the  same  question  to  the  other  white  men  of  the  party, 
all  of  whom  gave  the  same  answers,  whereupon  he  smiled, 
and  in  his  quaint  vernacular  said,  “Injun  he  don’t  know 
nothing.  Injun  big  fool.  White  man  mighty  smart;  he 
know  heap.”  At  the  same  time  he  pointed  to  a tree  about 
two  hundred  yards  from  where  we  were  then  standing,  and 
informed  us  that  our  outward  trail  ran  directly  by  the  side 
of  it,  which  proved  to  be  true. 

Another  time,  as  I was  returning  from  the  Comanche 


LOST  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 


297 


country  over  a route  many  miles  distant  from  the  one  I 
had  traveled  in  going  out,  one  of  my  Delaware  hunters, 
who  had  never  visited  the  section  before,  on  arriving  upon 
the  crest  of  an  eminence  in  the  prairie,  pointed  out  to  me  a 
clump  of  trees  in  the  distance,  remarking  that  our  outward 
track  would  be  found  there.  I was  not,  however,  disposed 
to  credit  his  statement  until  we  reached  the  locality,  and 
found  the  road  passing  the  identical  spot  he  had  indicated. 

This  same  Indian  would  start  from  any  place  to  which 
he  had  gone  by  a sinuous  route,  through  an  unknown 
country,  and  keep  a direct  bearing  back  to  the  place  of  de- 
parture ; and  he  assured  me  that  he  has  never,  even  during 
the  most  cloudy  or  foggy  weather,  or  in  the  darkest  nights, 
lost  the  points  of  compass.  There  are  very  few  white 
men  who  are  endowed  with  these  wonderful  faculties,  and 
those  few  are  only  rendered  proficient  by  matured  experi- 
ence. 

I have  known  several  men,  after  they  had  become  lost  in 
the  prairies,  to  wander  about  for  days  without  exercising 
the  least  judgment,  and  finally  exhibit  a state  of  mental 
aberration  almost  upon  the  verge  of  lunacy.  Instead  of 
reasoning  upon  their  situation,  they  exhaust  themselves 
running  ahead  at  their  utmost  speed  without  any  regard  to 
direction.  When  a person  is  satisfied  that  he  has  lost  his 
way,  he  should  stop  and  reflect  upon  the  course  he  has  been 
traveling,  the  time  that  has  elapsed  since  he  left  his  camp, 
and  the  probable  distance  that  he  is  from  it ; and  if  he  is 
unable  to  retrace  his  steps,  he  should  keep  as  nearly  in  the 
direction  of  them  as  possible ; and  if  he  has  a compass,  this 
will  be  an  easy  matter;  but,  above  all,  he  should  guard 
against  following  his  own  track  around  in  a circle  with  the 
idea  that  he  is  in  a beaten  trace. 

When  he  is  traveling  with  a train  of  wagons  which  leaves 
a plain  trail,  he  can  make  the  distance  he  has  traveled  from 


298 


THE  STARS  AS  GUIDES. 


camp  the  radius  of  a circle  in  which  to  ride  around,  and  be- 
fore the  circle  is  described  he  will  strike  the  trail.  If  the 
person  has  no  compass,  it  is  always  well  to  make  an  obser- 
vation, and  to  remember  the  direction  of  the  wind  at  the 
time  of  departure  from  camp ; and  as  this  would  not  gener- 
ally change  during  the  day,  it  would  afford  a means  of  keep- 
ing the  points  of  the  compass. 

In  the  night  Ursa  Major  (the  Great  Bear)  is  not  only  use- 
ful to  find  the  north  star,  but  its  position,  when  the  pointers 
will  be  vertical  in  the  heavens,  may  be  estimated  with  suf- 
ficient accuracy  to  determine  the  north  even  when  the  north 
star  can  not  be  seen.  In  tropical  latitudes,  the  zodiacal 
constellations,  such  as  Orion  and  Antares,  give  the  east  and 
west  bearing,  and  the  Southern  Cross  the  north  and  south, 
when  Polaris  and  the  Great  Bear  can  not  be  seen. 

It  is  said  that  the  moss  upon  the  firs  and  other  trees  in 
Europe  gives  a certain  indication  of  the  points  of  compass 
in  a forest  country,  the  greatest  amount  accumulating  upon 
the  north  side  of  the  trees.  But  I have  often  observed  the 
trees  in  our  own  forests,  and  have  not  been  able  to  form 
any  positive  conclusions  in  this  way. 

In  the  autumn  of  1844 1 made  a hunting  excursion  upon 
the  peninsula  of  Michigan,  in  the  vicinity  of  Saginaw  Bay. 
That  part  of  the  country  was  then  perfectly  in  a state  of 
nature,  and  probably  continues  so  to  this  day,  as  it  is  a cold, 
barren  region,  covered  with  heavy  pine  and  tamarack  trees, 
growing  upon  a miserable  soil,  illy  adapted  to  the  purposes 
of  the  agriculturist.  In  this  wild  and  lonely  section  there 
were  at  that  time  a good  many  elk,  and  I started  out  for 
the  purpose  of  trying  my  skill  in  hunting  the  noble  beast, 
which  I had  then  never  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing.  I en- 
gaged for  a guide  an  old  Chippeway  Indian  named  uPeto- 
wanquad ,”  who  had  passed  the  greater  portion  of  his  life  in 
hunting  moose,  elk,  bears,  and  deer  in  that  very  locality, 


PETOWANQUAD. 


299 


and  was  perfectly  well  acquainted  with  the  haunts  and 
habits  of  those  animals. 

He  told  me  that,  many  years  before  this,  he  was  hunting 
here  in  the  winter  season  at  a time  when  the  snow  was  so 
deep  that  he  was  obliged  to  use  snow-shoes ; that  during 
the  course  of  his  hunt  he  struck  the  tracks  of  seven  moose, 
which  he  followed  until  he  came  within  rifle  range,  and 
succeeded  in  killing  two  of  them.  The  other  five  made 
their  escape  for  the  time,  but  he  proceeded  on  the  trail  un- 
til he  killed  another,  and  thus  he  went  on  for  three  days, 
bivouacking  at  night  upon  the  tracks,  and  at  the  expiration 
of  this  time  he  had  killed  the  entire  gang,  with  a large 
black  bear  which  he  encountered  during  the  time.  He 
then  returned  home  and  called  out  a sufficient  number  of 
Indians  to  go  with  hand-sleds  and  bring  in  the  meat. 

After  we  had  reached  the  hunting-ground  we  made  our 
bivouac  in  the  woods,  and  prepared  to  try  our  luck  the  fol- 
lowing morning. 

Petowanquad,  who  was  master  of  ceremonies  upon  the 
occasion,  cautioned  us  against  firing  our  guns  or  making 
other  noises,  as  he  said  the  sense  of  hearing  in  the  elk  was 
so  very  acute  that  at  the  slightest  unusual  noise  they  would 
take  alarm  and  run  away. 

At  daylight  the  next  morning  Petowanquad  and  myself 
shouldered  our  rifles  and  started  out  with  two  dogs  in  leash, 
and  we  had  not  gone  far  before  I saw  some  tracks  which 
to  me  appeared  fresh,  but  the  Indian  said  they  were  made 
the  day  previous,  and  that  the  animals  then  were  probably 
far  off.  "We  soon  saw  others,  which  he  said  had  been  made 
during  the  past  night,  but  these  were  not  sufficiently  fresh 
to  answer  his  purposes.  Afterward  we  came  to  others, 
which  he  decided  to  have  been  made  some  three  hours  be- 
fore ; but  still  he  did  not  seem  inclined  to  follow  them,  and 
so  we  traveled  on  until  it  got  to  be  about  ten  o’clock,  when 


300 


SHOOTING  ELK. 


we  struck  the  tracks  of  five  elk,  which  the  Indian,  in  a low 
tone  of  voice,  informed  me  had  just  passed,  and  were  in  all 
probability  close  by  us  at  that  time,  whereupon  we  un- 
leashed the  dogs,  who  instantly  bounded  away  upon  the 
tracks  into  a dense  thicket  of  brush,  and  in  a very  few 
minutes  we  heard  them  giving  tongue  most  vociferously 
on  the  other  side,  and  rapidly  making  their  way  up  the 
bank  of  a small  creek.  The  Indian  was  nearly  as  much 
excited  as  I was  myself,  and  we  started  in  pursuit  at  the 
top  of  our  speed.  After  we  had  run  about  half  a mile  my 
ardor  began  to  abate  somewhat ; I became  thoroughly 
blown,  and  seated  myself  upon  a log  to  rest,  telling  the  In- 
dian to  follow  the  sound  of  the  dogs,  and  keep  them  within 
hearing  until  they  brought  the  animals  to  bay,  but  under 
no  circumstances  to  fire  at  them,  as  I was  ambitious  to  have 
the  honor  of  killing  them  myself.  He  proceeded  on,  and 
in  a few  minutes  I heard  him  call  to  me.  On  joining  him 
he  informed  me  that  the  dogs  had  brought  a large  buck  elk 
“to  bay”  in  the  creek  just  above  where  we  then  were, 
whereupon  I approached  the  sound  of  the  dogs’  voices, 
and  saw  an  immense  elk,  with  antlers  at  least  five  feet  long, 
standing  in  the  bed  of  the  creek,  with  his  head  erect,  and 
the  two  dogs  jumping  up  and  biting  his  nose  and  ears,  at 
the  same  time  keeping  up  a furious  barking.  I leveled  my 
rifle  and  placed  an  ounce  of  lead  directly  back  of  his  shoul- 
der, at  which  he  trotted  off,  but  the  excellent  dogs  brought 
him  to  bay  again  directly,  when  with  the  Indian’s  rifle  I 
gave  him  another  shot  near  the  same  place,  but  it  was  not 
until  I had  fired  another  ball  into  his  head  that  I brought 
him  down.  He  was  a magnificent  fellow,  weighing  at  least 
five  hundred  pounds,  and  his  horns  were  so  large  that  they 
were  a full  load  for  the  Indian  in  returning  to  our  camp. 
This  was  my  first  elk,  and,  as  may  be  imagined,  I felt  very 
proud  of  the  exploit. 


THE  DEER. 


801 


The  main  object  I had  in  view  in  describing  this  hunt 
here  was  to  show  the  great  accuracy  with  which  the  expe- 
rienced Indian  hunter  will  at  a glance,  from  the  appearance 
of  a track,  approximate  to  the  time  when  the  game  passed. 
I endeavored  to  learn  from  the  Indian  the  secret  of  this 
wonderful  faculty ; he  could  not,  however,  enlighten  me, 
saying  that  it  was  in  his  head,  but  he  could  not  explain  it ; 
I am  therefore  convinced  that  a knowledge  of  this  art  can 
only  be  attained  by  long-continued  practical  application 
and  experience. 

From  our  camp  to  the  point  where  we  struck  the  fresh 
elk  tracks  was  some  eight  or  ten  miles  in  a direct  line,  over 
a densely  - timbered,  flat  country,  without  a single  hill, 
stream,  or  other  landmark  to  break  the  monotony  of  the 
surface.  I noticed,  in  passing  over  it  in  the  morning,  that 
the  Indian  would  occasionally  kick  up  some  dry  leaves 
with  his  feet,  and,  in  returning,  I observed  that  we  passed 
near  some  of  these  places ; but  my  astonishment  was  very 
great  when  he  stopped  suddenly  and  requested  me  to  fire 
off  my  rifle,  which  I did,  and  immediately  our  companions 
in  the  camp  called  out  to  us  but  a short  distance  off.  Al- 
though I considered  myself  a tolerably  good  woodsman, 
yet  I had  not  the  slightest  conception  we  were  then  any 
where  near  our  camp  that  we  had  left  in  the  morning. 

There  was  so  much  sameness  in  the  appearance  of  this 
section  that  one  of  our  young  Indians  got  lost  on  the  same 
day,  and  did  not  find  his  way  back  until  he  went  to  the 
lake  and  followed  out  our  trail. 

THE  DEER. 

Of  all  game  quadrupeds  indigenous  to  this  continent,  the 
common  red  deer  is  probably  more  widely  dispersed  from 
north  to  south  and  from  east  to  west  over  our  vast  posses- 
sions than  any  other.  They  are  found  in  all  latitudes  from 


302 


DECREASE  OF  GAME. 


Hudson’s  Bay  to  Mexico,  and  they  clamber  over  the  most 
elevated  peaks  of  the  western  sierras  with  the  same  ease 
that  they  range  the  eastern  forests  or  the  everglades  of 
Florida.  In  summer  they  crop  the  grass  upon  the  sum- 
mits of  the  Bocky  Mountains,  and  in  winter,  when  the  snow 
falls  deep,  they  descend  into  sheltered  valleys,  where  they 
fall  an  easy  prey  to  the  Indians. 

Besides  the  common  red  deer  of  the  Eastern  States,  two 
other  varieties  are  found  in  the  Bocky  Mountains,  viz.,  the 
“ black-tailed  deer,”  which  takes  its  name  from  the  fact  of 
its  having  a small  tuft  of  black  hair  upon  the  end  of  its 
tail,  and  the  long-tailed  species.  The  former  of  these  is  con- 
siderably larger  than  the  Eastern  deer,  and  is  much  darker, 
being  of  a very  deep-yellowish  iron-gray,  with  a yellowish 
red  upon  the  belly.  It  frequents  the  mountains,  and  is 
never  seen  far  away  from  them.  Its  habits  are  similar  to 
those  of  the  red  deer,  and  it  is  hunted  in  the  same  way. 
The  only  difference  I have  been  able  to  discern  between 
the  long-tailed  variety  and  the  common  deer  is  in  the  length 
of  the  tail  and  body.  I have  seen  this  animal  only  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Bocky  Mountains,  but  it  may  resort  to 
other  localities. 

Although  the  deer  are  still  abundant  in  many  of  our  for- 
est districts  in  the  East,  and  do  not  appear  to  decrease  very 
rapidly,  yet  there  has  within  a few  years  been  a very  evi- 
dent diminution  in  the  numbers  of  those  frequenting  our 
Western  prairies.  In  passing  through  Southern  Texas  in 
1846,  thousands  of  deer  were  met  with  daily,  and,  astonish- 
ing,^ it  may  appear,  it  was  no  uncommon  spectacle  to  see 
frpm  one  to  two  hundred  in  a single  herd;  the  prairies 
* seemed  literally  alive  with  them ; but  in  1855  it  was  sel- 
dom that  a herd  of  ten  was  seen  in  the  same  localities.  It 
seemed  to  me  that  the  vast  herds  first  met  with  could  not 
have  been  killed  off  by  the  hunters  in  that  sparsely-popu- 


DEER  - STALKING. 


303 


lated  section,  and  I was  puzzled  to  know  what  had  become 
of  them.  It  is  possible  they  may  have  moved  off  into  Mex- 
ico ; they  certainly  are  not  in  our  territory  at  the  present 
time. 

Sportsmen  have  never  been,  and  probably  never  will  be, 
unanimous  in  their  opinions  regarding  the  best  arm  for 
deer-hunting.  The  relative  efficiency  of  the  rifle  and  the 
smooth-bored  fowling-piece  has  been  a fruitful  theme  for 
discussion  among  the  respective  advocates  of  each  for  many 
years,  and  some  very  cogent  arguments  have  been  adduced 
in  support  of  both  sides  of  the  question. 

In  driving  deer  with  dogs,  where  the  hunter  is  stationed 
upon  a “runway,”  and  seldom  has  an  opportunity  of  get- 
ting any  other  than  a running  shot,  and  this  oftentimes  in 
dense  cover,  I should  unquestionably  give  the  preference  to 
a large  gauged  shot-gun.  I should  also  choose  the  same  de- 
scription of  gun  to  hunt  deer  on  horseback  in  thick  cover, 
where  the  game  is  lying  down,  and  generally  springs  up 
suddenly  and  is  out  of  sight  before  a rifle  could  be  brought 
to  bear  with  much  certainty  upon  it ; but  when  it  comes  to 
still-hunting  deer,  there  is  no  comparison,  in  my  judgment, 
between  the  relative  merits  of  the  two  arms. 

Any  one  who  has  been  in  the  habit  of  deer-stalking 
knows  that  it  is  generally  difficult  to  approach  nearer  to 
them  than  about  one  hundred  yards ; he  also  will  be  aware 
of  the  fact  that  a smooth-bored  gun,  even  when  charged 
with  Ely’s  wire  buck-shot  cartridges,  is  a very  uncertain 
weapon  at  greater  distances  than  about  sixty  or  seventy 
yards ; while,  on  the  other  hand,  it  will  be  equally  appar- 
ent to  him  that  a good  rifle,  in  the  hands  of  an  experienced 
shot,  is  perfectly  reliable  at  all  distances  under  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards. 

That  man  who  can  not  kill  a deer  at  one  hundred  yards 
with  a good  rifle  had  better  throw  it  aside,  take  the  shot- 


304 


RIFLES. 


gun,  and  turn  his  attention  to  smaller  game,  for  he  certainly 
never  will  become  proficient  as  a deer-hunter. 

One  of  the  most  conclusive  arguments  I know  of  upon 
this  subject  is  found  in  the  fact  that  all  our  frontier  hunt- 
ers, who  rely  exclusively  upon  their  guns  to  furnish  them 
subsistence,  use  only  the  rifle ; and,  indeed,  I have  never 
known  a very  expert  deer-stalker  that  would  make  use  of 
any  other  arm. 

The  rifles  that  are  manufactured  in  the  Eastern  States 
are  designed  for  small  game  or  target  practice,  and  are,  for 
the  most  part,  of  small  calibre,  carrying  from  about  eighty 
to  one  hundred  round  balls  to  the  pound.  While  it  is  ad- 
mitted that  these  missiles,  when  fired  with  great  accuracy 
through  the  vitals  of  a deer,  will  bring  him  to  the  ground, 
yet  it  is  contended  that  if  they  only  penetrate  the  fleshy 
parts  of  the  animal,  or  even  pass  through  the  entrails,  they 
are  often  insufficient  to  stop  him ; whereas,  if  a deer  be 
wounded  with  a large  ball,  he  will  bleed  much  more  free- 
ly, and  will  sooner  become  exhausted. 

I have  always  been  much  more  successful  with  a large- 
calibred  rifle  than  with  a small  one ; and  I am  of  the  opin- 
ion that  a gauge  admitting  about  thirty-two  round  balls  to 
the  pound  is  the  most  efficient,  not  only  for  deer-shooting, 
but  for  all  the  other  large-game  quadrupeds  found  upon 
our  continent. 

A hunting  rifle  should  not  be  shorter  in  the  barrel  than 
thirty  inches  (I  prefer  thirty-four  inches),  as  this  length  in- 
sures a good  line  of  sight,  and  gives  a desirable  balance  to 
the  gun  when  brought  to  the  shoulder.  A shorter  barrel 
may  throw  the  ball  with  as  much  accuracy,  but  it  is  more 
easily  thrown  out  of  the  proper  line  of  direction,  and  does 
not  allow  sufficient  interval  between  the  front  and  back 
sights. 

The  weight  of  metal  in  the  barrel  is  a consideration  of 


RIFLE  SIGHTS. 


305 


importance,  but  will  depend  somewhat  upon  the  physical 
powers  of  the  individual.  A heavy  barrel  recoils  less  than 
a light  one,  and,  consequently,  throws  the  projectile  with 
more  precision ; but  a delicate  man  can  not  carry  a very 
heavy  rifle  upon  his  shoulder  all  day  without  too  great  a 
tax  upon  his  powers  of  endurance.  Some  of  our  stout  and 
hardy  frontiermen,  like  the  Swiss  mountaineers,  may  carry 
a rifle  of  twenty  pounds’  weight,  but  this  I deem  unneces- 
sarily large.  A rifle  weighing  entire  from  ten  and  a half 
to  twelve  pounds  is,  in  my  judgment,  heavy  enough  for 
hunting  purposes.  It  does  not  recoil  perceptibly  when 
properly  charged,  and  is  not  cumbersome  for  men  of  ordi- 
nary physique. 

A great  variety  of  complicated  elevating-  back-sights 
have  been  brought  to  the  notice  of  the  public  within  the 
past  few  years,  and  some  of  them  received  with  favor 
among  military  men.  They  are  graduated,  and  designed 
to  be  elevated  or  depressed  as  the  firing  distance  increases 
or  diminishes.  Theoretically  they  are  correct  in  principle, 
and  perhaps,  for  military  arms,  they  may  be  found  advan- 
tageous when  the  distances  can  be  determined  with  accu- 
racy ; but  when  the  enemy  is  manoeuvring,  and  continual- 
ly occupying  different  positions,  the  distances  must,  for  the 
most  part,  be  estimated.  Under  such  circumstances,  it 
strikes  my  mind  that  but  little,  if  any,  practical  utility  will 
be  attained  from  the  use  of  this  awkward  and  cumbersome 
appendage. 

The  open  back-sight  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  only  one  that 
should  ever  be  used  upon  a hunting-rifle.  After  it  is  firm- 
ly attached  to  the  gun,  the  point-blank  distance  can  be  as- 
certained by  experiment,  and  the  sights  adjusted  to  the 
proper  distance.  If  the  object  is  at  a greater  or  less  dis- 
tance, the  hunter  draws  a coarser  or  finer  sight,  and  by 
practice  he  will  become  enabled  to  make  this  estimate  with 

2 C* 


306 


HABITS  OF  DEER. 


a good  deal  of  accuracy ; whereas,  if  he  have  the  elevating 
sight  upon  his  rifle,  he  must  stop  to  regulate  it  to  the  dis- 
tance the  game  happens  to  show  itself  before  he  can  fire, 
and  by  the  time  this  is  done,  unless  the  game  is  more  ac- 
commodating than  I have  usually  found  it,  he  will  be  dis- 
appointed. 

The  only  objection  I have  discovered  in  the  use  of  the 
open  sight  is,  that  when  the  sun’s  rays  strike  it  at  particu- 
lar angles  it  produces  a glimmering  in  the  notch,  which  pre- 
vents drawing  a fine  sight ; but  this  difficulty  is,  in  a great 
degree,  overcome  by  a very  ingenious  and  simple  device, 
which  originated  with  one  of  my  Eocky  Mountain  guides. 
It  consists  in  having  a semi-spherical  concavity  drilled  into 
the  top  of  the  sight,  with  the  circumference  tangent  to  the 
outer  front  and  rear  edges  of  it.  The  notches  are  then  cut 
so  as  to  be  in  a vertical  plane  with  the  axis  of  the  piece 
when  the  sight  is  fixed  in  position.  This  orifice  effectually 
screens  the  notches  and  prevents  any  glimmering. 

The  front  sights  upon  the  rifles  found  in  the  shops  in 
Northeastern  States  are  generally  too  short,  and  our  West- 
ern hunters  always  knock  them  off  and  put  on  others. 
This  sight  should  be  about  an  inch  long,  and  shaped  ac- 
cording to  the  opposite  diagram.  The  hunters  generally 
make  them  of  a piece  of  silver  cut  from  the  edge  of  a half 
dollar. 

Twenty  years’  experience  in  deer-hunting  has  taught  me 
several  facts  relative  to  the  habits  of  the  animal,  which, 
when  well  understood,  will  be  found  of  much  service  to  the 
inexperienced  hunter,  and  greatly  contribute  to  his  success. 
The  best  target-shots  are  not  necessarily  the  most  skillful 
deer-stalkers.  One  of  the  great  secrets  of  this  art  is  in 
knowing  how  to  approach  the  game  without  giving  alarm, 
and  this  can  not  easily  be  done  unless  the  hunter  sees  it  be- 


fore  he  is  himself  discovered.  There  are  so  many  objects 
in  the  woods  resembling  the  deer  in  color  that  none  but  a 
practiced  eye  can  often  detect  the  difference. 

When  the  deer  is  reposing  he  generally  turns  his  head 
from  the  wind,  in  which  position  he  can  see  an  enemy  ap- 
proaching from  that  direction,  and  his  nose  will  apprise 
him  of  the  presence  of  danger  from  the  opposite  side.  The 
best  method  of  hunting  deer,  therefore,  is  across  the  wind. 


308 


WALKING  UP  TO  DEER. 


While  the  deer  are  feeding,  early  in  the  morning  and  a 
short  time  before  dark  in  the  evening  are  the  best  times  to 
stalk  them,  as  they  are  then  busily  occupied  and  less  on 
the  alert.  When  a deer  is  espied  with  his  head  down,  crop- 
ping the  grass,  the  hunter  advances  cautiously,  keeping  his 
eyes  constantly  directed  upon  him,  and  screening  himself 
behind  intervening  objects,  or,  in  the  absence  of  other  cov- 
er, crawls  along  upon  his  hands  and  knees  in  the  grass,  un- 
til the  deer  hears  his  step  and  raises  his  head,  when  he 
must  instantly  stop  and  remain  in  an  attitude  fixed  and  mo- 
tionless as  a statue,  for  the  animal’s  vision  is  his  keenest 
sense.  When  alarmed  he  will  detect  the  slightest  move- 
ment of  a small  object,  and,  unless  the  hunter  stands  or  lies 
perfectly  still,  his  presence  will  be  detected.  If  the  hunter 
does  not  move,  the  deer  will,  after  a short  time,  recover 
from  his  alarm  and  resume  his  grazing,  when  he  may  be 
again  approached.  The  deer  always  exhibits  his  alarm  by 
a sudden  jerking  of  the  tail  just  before  he  raises  his  head. 

I once  saw  a Delaware  Indian  walk  directly  up  within 
rifle  range  of  a deer  that  was  feeding  upon  the  open  prairie 
and  shoot  him  down ; he  was,  however,  a long  time  in  ap- 
proaching, and  made  frequent  halts  whenever  the  animal 
flirted  his  tail  and  raised  his  head.  Although  he  often 
turned  toward  the  hunter,  yet  he  did  not  appear  to  notice 
him,  probably  taking  him  for  a stump  or  tree. 

When  the  deer  are  lying  down  in  the  smooth  prairie,  un- 
less the  grass  is  tall,  it  is  difficult  to  get  near  them,  as  they 
are  generally  looking  around,  and  become  alarmed  at  the 
least  noise. 

The  most  auspicious  season  of  the  year  for  still:hunting 
deer  in  a northern  latitude  is  immediately  after  the  first 
light  falls  of  snow  during  the  early  part  of  winter.  The 
game  is  then  “ in  season ,”  fat,  well-flavored,  and  the  fawns 
sufficiently  grown  to  take  care  of  themselves. 


DEER  IN  COYER. 


309 


When  the  ground  is  covered  with  a soft  carpet  of  three 
or  four  inches  of  snow,  the  hunter  passes  over  it  without 
making  much  noise  by  the  crackling  of  twigs  or  the  rus- 
tling of  leaves  under  his  feet. 

Moccasins  are  preferable  for  this  kind  of  hunting  to  boots 
or  shoes,  especially  in  the  cold  and  dry  weather,  for  the  rea- 
son that  they  are  more  soft  and  yielding,  and  do  not  occa- 
sion so  much  noise  by  crushing  twigs  or  striking  against 
hard  substances,  and  are  therefore  less  liable  to  startle  the 
game. 

In  starting  out  at  early  dawn,  after  there  has  been  a light 
snow  during  the  preceding  night,  the  hunter  may  be  cer- 
tain, should  he  encounter  a track,  that  it  is  fresh,  and  that 
the  animal  is  not  very  far  distant.  He  then,  in  a region 
where  the  deer  are  not  very  abundant,  takes  the  trail  and 
follows  it ; but,  in  doing  this,  he  should  not  keep  his  eyes 
constantly  fixed  upon  the  ground,  but  walk  cautiously^ilong 
near  the  track,  carefully  avoiding  stepping  upon  dry  brush, 
or  breaking  off  overhanging  limbs  of  trees,  and  attentively 
scrutinizing  all  the  ground  in  front  within  rifle  range. 

Where  the  deer  has  been  moving  directly  along,  without 
stopping  to  lie  down  or  wandering  about  to  eat,  it  will  not 
be  necessary  to  exercise  so  much  caution,  as  the  animal 
will  probably  be  found  some  distance  in  advance ; but 
whenever  the  track  takes  a direction  toward  a thicket  of 
brush,  a morass  covered  with  tall  grass  or  rushes,  or,  in- 
deed, toward  any  other  place  affording  dense  cover,*  where 
the  animal  might  be  likely  to  lie  down,  the  hunter  should 
at  once  leave  the  trail  and  make  a wide  detour  around 
upon  the  lee  side  of  such  covert,  keeping  his  eyes  intently 
occupied  in  scrutinizing  every  object  within  the  area.  Aft- 
er passing  entirely  around  the  copse  in  this  manner,  and 
arriving  at  the  point  of  departure,  if  he  has  not  crossed  the 
track  on  the  opposite  side,  he  knows  that  the  deer  is  within 


310 


RUNNING  DEER. 


the  circle  he  has  described,  and  he  then  makes  sure  that  his 
rifle  is  in  good  firing  order ; and,  carrying  it  in  such  a po- 
sition that  it  can  be  brought  to  bear  upon  the  object  in  the 
shortest  possible  time,  he  begins  to  contract  the  circle  by 
gradually  approaching  nearer  the  covert,  and  keenly  search- 
ing every  place  where  it  is  possible  for  the  deer  to  make 
his  bed.  To  insure  success  in  the  execution  of  this  very 
adroit  and  strategic  approach,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that 
the  hunter  should  move  with  a slow  and  regular  gait,  but 
on  no  account  stop,  or  make  any  unusual  demonstration, 
until  he  discovers  the  game  and  is  in  readiness  to  deliver 
his  shot,  as,  in  the  event  of  his  being  very  near,  the  deer 
will  oftentimes  jump  up  and  run  at  the  instant  he  makes  a 
halt,  whereas  if  he  moves  steadily  along  with  a measured 
step,  as  if  he  intended  to  pass  by,  they  will  generally  lie 
close,  and  sometimes  I have  even  seen  them  lower  their 
heads  upon  the  ground  to  hide  from  the  hunter. 

The  antlers  of  the  bucks,  before  they  shed  them,  can  oft- 
en be  seen  over  the  tops  of  the  tall  grass  or  low  brush  when 
they  are  lying  down,  and  the  long  erect  ears  of  the  does  are 
the  first  objects  that  make  their  appearance  under  the  same 
circumstances. 

The  hunter  must  be  careful  not  to  allow  his  eyes  to  catch 
those  of  the  deer  when  he  discovers  him,  as  I am  informed 
by  a finished  sportsman  and  an  experienced  deer-stalker 
(although  I have  never  observed  the  fact  myself)  that  in 
such  event  the  animal  will  instantly  jump  up  and  run. 

During  the  “ running  season ” the  bucks  follow  on  the 
trail  of  the  does  in  a fast  walk  or  slow  trot,  and,  as  they  are 
then  eagerly  occupied  in  the  pursuit  of  their  object,  they 
are  not  easily  diverted  from  it.  The  hunter  may  then  fall 
in  behind  them  after  they  pass  him,  and,  following  up  rap- 
idly, approach  within  rifle  range  without  difficulty. 

The  “ running  season”  in  the  Northern  States  generally 


WOUNDED  DEER. 


311 


commences  in  October,  and  lasts  about  a month ; but  in  the 
Southern  States  it  is  about  a month  later.  During  this  sea- 
son the  bucks  run  themselves  down,  become  poor,  their 
necks  swell  to  an  enormous  size,  and  the  venison  is  then 
rank  and  unfit  for  the  table. 

A wounded  deer  can  be  followed  without  difficulty  upon 
the  snow ; and  if  the  blood  that  flows  from  the  wound  is 
of  a light  red  or  pink  color,  it  is  a certain  indication  that 
the  animal  has  been  struck  in  the  vitals,  and  will  not  run 
far.  In  the  summer  season  a wounded  deer  will  generally 
seek  the  water,  and,  hiding  under  the  shelving  banks  of 
rivers,  or  in  the  grass  upon  the  borders  of  ponds,  sink  his 
body,  only  keeping  his  head  exposed ; it  then  becomes  nec- 
essary to  search  very  closely  to  discover  his  hiding-place. 

When  a deer  has  been  alarmed  by  a hunter  upon  his 
track,  he  often  runs  a long  distance  before  he  recovers  from 
his  fright,  and  it  requires  a long  and  exhausting  chase  to 
come  up  with  him  again ; even  then  he  will  be  likely  to 
keep  an  eye  to  the  rear  for  a considerable  time,  and  it  will 
require  great  caution  to  approach  within  shooting  distance. 
I have  always,  under  such  circumstances,  thought  it  better 
to  abandon  the  track  and  look  for  another. 

When  a deer  has  but  one  leg  broken  he  makes  good 
running,  and  a man  on  foot  will  find  it  very  difficult  to 
overtake  him  without  a dog  to  bring  him  11  to  bay.”  I re- 
member one  instance  where  I broke  both  fore  legs  of  a doe 
just  above  the  knees,  yet,  notwithstanding  these  severe 
wounds,  she  ran  off  upon  the  stumps  nearly  half  a mile  be- 
fore I succeeded  in  securing  her. 

Another  very  successful  method  of  deer-stalking,  which 
is  practiced  a good  deal  in  the  sparsely-populated  districts 
of  Texas  and  Mexico,  where  the  game  is  abundant,  and  ac- 
customed to  grazing  in  the  vicinity  of  cattle  and  horses,  is 
by  making  use  of  a gentle  and  tractable  horse  or  mule,  and 


312 


SHOOTING  WITH  A HOESE. 


approaching  as  near  the  deer  as  can  conveniently  be  done 
without  giving  alarm  (about  300  yards) ; the  hunter  then 
dismounts,  attaches  one  end  of  his  wiping-stick,  or  other 
small  rod,  to  the  bridle-bit  by  means  of  a string ; he  then 
takes  the  opposite  end  of  the  rod  in  one  hand,  his  rifle  in 
the  other,  and,  placing  himself  near  the  horse’s  shoulder  on 
the  opposite  side  from  the  deer,  so  as  to  be  screened  from 
their  observation  by  the  horse,  he  moves  off  very  slowly  in 
a direction  not  directly  toward  the  game,  but  so  as  to  pass 
within  the  desirable  rifle  range,  and  upon  the  lee  side. 
With  the  stick  he  is  enabled  to  guide  his  horse,  stop  him, 
or  turn  him  in  any  direction  he  may  desire.  In  this  man- 
ner he  proceeds  in  a slow  walk,  carefully  covering  himself 
behind  the  horse,  and  gradually  bearing  toward  the  deer. 

During  the  approach  the  deer  will  sometimes  take  alarm, 
raise  their  heads,  and  cast  a startled  and  inquiring  look  at 
the  horse.  Should  this  occur,  the  hunter  will  at  once  stop 
and  allow  his  horse  to  crop  the  grass,  while  he  himself  low- 
ers his  head  so  as  to  be  entirely  screened  from  the  deer. 
As  soon  as  they  regain  their  composure  and  resume  their 
grazing,  he  proceeds  again,  and  will  generally  be  able  to 
get  within  short  rifle  range,  when  he  can  stoop  down  and 
fire  under  his  horse’s  belly  or  neck.  If,  however,  the  stalk- 
ing-horse has  not  been  trained  to  this  particular  method  of 
hunting,  or  is  alarmed  at  the  report  of  fire-arms,  the  hunter 
should  carry  the  lariat  rope  in  his  hand,  and,  when  he  is 
sufficiently  near  the  deer,  drop  the  guiding-stick,  and  allow 
his  horse  to  pass  on,  while  he  remains  upon  the  ground  be- 
hind, and  places  himself  in  position  to  fire  at  the  instant  he 
is  uncovered  by  the  horse.  I have  often  hunted  in  this 
way,  and  with  good  success.  I observed,  however,  after  a 
particular  herd  had  been  stalked  several  times,  that  they 
became  wary,  after  which  it  was  necessary  to  unsaddle  be- 
fore commencing  the  approach.  ^ 


PLEATING  DEER. 


313 


Another  successful,  but  not  very  sportsmanlike  method 
of  deer -stalking  is  resorted  to  by  the  unscrupulous  pot- 
hunters in  Western  Texas  and  Mexico,  and  which  is  so  en- 
tirely different  from  any  other  I have  ever  heard  of  that  it 
is  worthy  of  a notice  for  its  originality.  It  consists  in 
making  use  of  a dry  and  stiff  ox-hide,  to  one  end  of  which 
a rope  is  attached.  A yoke  of  well-trained  and  gentle  oxen 
are  then  hitched  to  the  rope,  and  the  hunter  drives  out  into 
the  prairies  where  the  deer  resort.  When  he  discovers  a 
herd,  and  has  approached  as  near  as  can  be  done  without 
disturbing  them,  he  seats  himself  upon  the  hide,  and,  with- 
out speaking  or  making  any  other  noise,  directs  the  team 
with  his  whip  toward  the  game.  During  the  approach,  he 
allows  his  cattle  to  move  slowly,  and  occasionally  to  stop 
and  crop  the  grass.  He  is  well  screened  by  the  oxen  and 
the  prairie  grass,  and  will  find  it  a very  easy  matter  to 
drive  within  short  rifle  range  without  being  discovered. 
After  killing  a deer,  he  places  it  upon  his  drag,  and  drives 
on  in  search  of  others. 

The  Indians  are  in  the  habit  of  using  a small  instrument 
which  imitates  the  bleat  of  the  young  fawn,  with  which 
they  lure  the  doe  within  range  of  their  rifles.  The  young 
fawn  gives  out  no  scent  upon  its  track  until  it  is  sufficient- 
ly grown  to  make  good  running,  and  instinct  teaches  the 
mother  that  this  wise  provision  of  nature  to  preserve  the 
helpless  little  quadruped  from  the  ravages  of  wolves,  pan- 
thers, and  other  carnivorous  beasts,  will  be  defeated  if  she 
remains  with  it,  as  her  tracks  can  not  be  concealed.  She 
therefore  hides  her  fawn  in  the  grass,  where  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  see  it,  even  when  very  near  it,  goes  off  to  some 
neighboring  thicket  within  call,  and  makes  her  bed  alone. 
The  Indian  pot-hunter,  who  is  but  little  scrupulous  as  to 
the  means  he  employs  in  accomplishing  his  ends,  sounds 
the  bleat  along  near  the  places  where  he  thinks  the  game 


314 


BUCK  FEVER. 


is  lying,  and  the  unsuspicious  doe,  who  imagines  that  her 
offspring  is  in  distress,  rushes  with  headlong  impetuosity 
toward  the  sound,  and  often  goes  within  a few  yards  of  the 
hunter  to  receive  her  death-wound. 

This  is  cruel  sport,  and  can  only  be  justified  when  meat 
is  scarce,  which  is- very  frequently  the  case  in  the  Indian’s 
larder. 

It  does  not  always  comport  with  a man’s  feelings  of  se- 
curity, especially  if  he  happens  to  be  a little  nervous,  to 
sound  the  deer-bleat  in  a wild  region  of  country.  I once 
undertook  to  experiment  with  the  instrument  myself,  and 
made  my  first  essay  in  attempting  to  call  up  an  antelope 
which  I discovered  in  the  distance.  I succeeded  admirably 
in  luring  the  wary  victim  within  shooting  range,  had  raised 
upon  my  knees,  and  was  just  in  the  act  of  pulling  trigger, 
when  a rustling  in  the  grass  on  my  left  drew  my  attention 
in  that  direction,  where,  much  to  my  surprise,  I beheld  a 
huge  panther  within  about  twenty  yards,  bounding  with  gi- 
gantic strides  directly  toward  me.  I turned  my  rifle,  and 
in  an  instant,  much  to  my  relief  and  gratification,  its  con- 
tents were  lodged  in  the  heart  of  the  beast. 

Many  men,  when  they  suddenly  encounter  a deer,  are 
seized  with  nervous  excitement,  called  in  sporting  parlance 
the  “ buck  fever ,”  which  causes  them  to  fire  at  random.  Not- 
withstanding I have  had  much  experience  in  hunting,  I 
must  confess  that  I am  never  entirely  free  from  some  of  the 
symptoms  of  this  malady  when  firing  at  large  game,  and  I 
believe  that  in  four  out  of  five  cases  where  I have  missed 
the  game  my  balls  have  passed  too  high.  I have  endeav- 
ored to  obviate  this  by  sighting  my  rifle  low,  and  it  has 
been  attended  with  more  successful  results.  The  same  re- 
marks apply  to  most  other  men  I have  met  with.  They 
fire  too  high  when  excited. 


A 


\ 


THE  ANTELOPE. 


317 


THE  ANTELOPE. 

This  animal  frequents  the  most  elevated  bleak  and  naked 
prairies  in  all  latitudes  from  Mexico  to  Oregon,  and  consti- 
tutes an  important  item  of  subsistence  with  many  of  the 
prairie  Indians.  It  is  the  most  wary,  timid,  and  fleet  ani- 
mal that  inhabits  the  Plains.  It  is  about  the  size  of  a small 
deer,  with  a heavy  coating  of  coarse,  wiry  hair,  and  its  flesh 
is  more  tender  and  juicy  than  that  of  the  deer.  It  seldom 
enters  a timbered  country,  but  seems  to  delight  in  cropping 
the  grass  from  the  elevated  swells  of  the  prairies.  When 
disturbed  by  the  traveler,  it  will  circle  around  him  with  the 
speed  of  the  wind,  but  does  not  stop  until  it  reaches  some 
prominent  position  whence  it  can  survey  the  country  on  all 
sides,  and  nothing  seems  to  escape  its  keen  vision.  They 
will  sometimes  stand  for  a long  time  and  look  at  a man, 
provided  he  does  not  move  or  go  out  of  sight ; but  if  he 
goes  behind  a hill  with  the  intention  of  passing  around  and 
getting  nearer  to  them,  he  will  never  find  them  again  in  the 
same  place.  I have  often  tried  the  experiment,  and  invari- 
ably found  that,  as  soon  as  I went  where  the  antelope  could 
not  see  me,  he  moved  off.  Their  sense  of  hearing,  as  well 
as  vision,  is  very  acute,  which  renders  it  difficult  to  stalk 
them.  By  taking  advantage  of  the  cover  afforded  in  bro- 
ken ground,  the  hunter  may,  by  moving  slowly  and  cau- 
tiously over  the  crests  of  the  irregularities  in  the  surface, 
sometimes  approach  within  rifle  range. 

The  antelope  possesses  a greater  degree  of  curiosity  than 
any  other  animal  I know  of,  and  will  often  approach  very 
near  a strange  object.  The  experienced  hunter,  taking  ad- 
vantage of  this  peculiarity,  lies  down  and  secretes  himself 
in  the  grass,  after  which  he  raises  his  handkerchief,  hand,  4 
or  foot,  so  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  animal,  and  thus 
often  succeeds  in  beguiling  him  within  shooting  distance. 

2D* 


318 


THE  BEAR. 


In  some  valleys  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  the 
pasturage  is  good  during  the  winter  season,  they  collect  in 
immense  herds.  The  Indians  are  in  the  habit  of  surround- 
ing them  in  such  localities  and  running  them  with  their 
horses  until  they  tire  them  out,  when  they  slay  large  num- 
bers. 

The  antelope  makes  a track  much  shorter  than  the  deer, 
very  broad  and  round  at  the  heel,  and  quite  sharp  at  the 
toe ; a little  experience  renders  it  easy  to  distinguish  them. 

THE  BEAR. 

Besides  the  common  black  bear  of  the  Eastern  States,  sev- 
eral others  are  found  in  the  mountains  of  California,  Oregon, 
Utah,  and  New  Mexico,  viz.,  the  grizzly,  brown,  and  cinna- 
mon varieties ; all  have  nearly  the  same  habits,  and  are  hunt- 
ed in  the  same  manner. 

From  all  I had  heard  of  the  grizzly  bear,  I was  induced 
to  believe  him  one  of  the  most  formidable  and  savage  ani- 
mals in  the  universe,  and  that  the  man  who  would  deliber- 
ately encounter  and  kill  one  of  these  beasts  had  performed 
a signal  feat  of  courage  which  entitled  him  to  a lofty  posi- 
tion among  the  votaries  of  Nimrod.  So  firmly  had  I be- 
come impressed  with  this  conviction,  that  I should  have 
been  very  reluctant  to  fire  upon  one  had  I met  him  when 
alone  and  on  foot.  The  grizzly  bear  is  assuredly  the  mon- 
arch of  the  American  forests,  and,  so  far  as  physical  strength 
is  concerned,  he  is  perhaps  without  a rival  in  the  world ; 
but,  after  some  experience  in  hunting,  my  opinions  regard- 
ing his  courage  and  his  willingness  to  attack  men  have  very 
materially  changed. 

In  passing  over  the  elevated  table-lands  lying  between 
the  two  forks  of  the  Platte  River  in  1858, 1 encountered  a 
full-grown  female  grizzly  bear,  with  two  cubs,  very  quietly 
reposing  upon  the  open  prairie,  several  miles  distant  from 


A COWARDLY  MOTHER. 


319 


any  timber.  This  being  the  first  opportunity  that  had  ever 
occurred  to  me  for  an  encounter  with  the  ursine  monster, 
and  being  imbued  with  the  most  exalted  notions  of  the 
beast’s  proclivities  for  offensive  warfare,  especially  when  in 
the  presence  of  her  offspring,  it  may  very  justly  be  imag- 
ined that  I was  rather  more  excited  than  usual.  I,  howev- 
er, determined  to  make  the  assault.  I felt  the  utmost  confi- 
dence in  my  horse,  as  she  was  afraid  of  nothing ; and,  after 
arranging  every  thing  about  my  saddle  and  arms  in  good 
order,  I advanced  to  within  about  eighty  yards  before  I was 
discovered  by  the  bear,  when  she  raised  upon  her  haunches 
and  gave  me  a scrutinizing  examination.  I seized  this  op- 
portune moment  to  fire,  but  missed  my  aim,  and  she  started 
off,  followed  by  her  cubs  at  their  utmost  speed*  After  re- 
loading my  rifle,  I pursued,  and,  on  coming  again  within 
range,  delivered  another  shot,  which  struck  the  large  bear 
in  the  fleshy  part  of  the  thigh,  whereupon  she  set  up  a most 
distressing  howl  and  accelerated  her  pace,  leaving  her  cubs 
behind.  After  loading  again  I gave  the  spurs  to  my  horse 
and  resumed  the  chase,  soon  passing  the  cubs,  who  were 
making  the  most  plaintive  cries  of  distress.  They  were 
heard  by  the  dam,  but  she  gave  no  other  heed  to  them  than 
occasionally  to  halt  for  an  instant,  turn  around,  sit  up  on 
her  posteriors,  and  give  a hasty  look  back ; but,  as  soon  as 
she  saw  me  following  her,  she  invariably  turned  again  and 
redoubled  her  speed.  I pursued  about  four  miles  and  fired 
four  balls  into  her  before  I succeeded  in  bringing  her  to  ' 
the  ground,  and  from  the  time  I first  saw  her  until  her 
death-wound,  notwithstanding  I was  often  very  close  upon 
her  heels,  she  never  came  to  bay  or  made  the  slightest  dem- 
onstration of  resistance.  Her  sole  purpose  seemed  to  be  to 
make  her  escape,  leaving  her  cubs  in  the  most  cowardly  . 
manner. 

Upon  three  other  different  occasions  I met  the  mountain 


320 


A LADY  AND  A WOLF. 


bears,  and  once  the  cinnamon  species,  which  is  called  the 
most  formidable  of  all,  and  in  none  of  these  instances  did 
they  exhibit  indications  of  anger,  but  invariably  ran  from 
me.  While  I was  returning  from  New  Mexico  to  Utah  in 
1858, 1 encountered  a large  gray  bear,  which  I drove  for 
two  miles  in  the  same  manner  that  a wild  cow  is  driven. 
I was  well  mounted,  and  could  ride  around  the  bear  when- 
ever I desired,  and  this  enabled  me  to  turn  the  animal  in 
any  direction,  and  thus  I drove  him  directly  back  to  the 
command,  where  he  was  killed. 

Such  is  my  experience  with  this  formidable  monarch  of 
the  mountains.  I believe  that  if  a man  came  suddenly 
upon  the  beast  in  a thicket,  where  it  could  have  no  previ- 
ous warning,  he  might  be  attacked ; and  it  is  possible  that 
a large  grizzly  bear  might  attack  a man  on  foot  in  the  open 
prairie,  and  in  some  instances  they  have  been  known  to 
make  war  upon  men  on  horseback ; but  I have  always  ob- 
served that  an  acquaintance  with  the  larger  wild  animals 
of  our  country  makes  them  much  less  formidable  than  they 
are  represented  to  us  when  in  the  distance. 

It  has  generally  been  considered  a very  daring  feat  for 
General  Putnam  when  he  entered  a cave  and  killed  a wolf, 
and  the  spot  is  to  this  day  pointed  out  as  the  scene  of  a 
most  wonderful  performance;  whereas  those  persons  who 
understand  the  cowardly  nature  of  the  wolf,  and  are  famil- 
iar with  their  habits,  are  perfectly  aware  that  such  an  un- 
dertaking is  not  attended  with  the  slightest  danger.  I 
knew  a woman  who,  in  the  night-time,  hearing  a disturb- 
ance in  her  poultry-yard,  went  out  and  met  a large  wolf 
carrying  off  one  of  her  turkeys.  She  had  a very  great  ap- 
preciation for  her  turkeys,  as  they  were  the  only  ones  with- 
in a hundred  miles,  and  she  pursued  the  wolf,  made  him 
drop  the  turkey,  and  run  away. 

If  any  one  should  have  any  doubt  regarding  this  state- 


GENERAL  VAN  VLIET. 


321 


meat,  I beg  to  refer  him  to  mj  wife,  who  was  the  owner  of 
the  turkeys.  She,  however,  did  not  know  what  animal  she 
had  pursued  until  a sentinel  saw  the  wolf. 

It  is  my  opinion,  from  all  I have  seen  of  the  grizzly  bear, 
that  if  he  gets  the  wind  or  sight  of  a man  on  horseback  at 
any  considerable  distance,  he  will  endeavor  to  get  away  as 
soon  as  possible.  I am  so  fully  impressed  with  this  con- 
viction, that  I should  hunt  the  animal  (provided  I was  well 
mounted  on  a reliable  horse)  with  a feeling  of  as  much  se- 
curity as  I would  have  in  hunting  the  buffalo.  My  expe- 
rience in  hunting  the  grizzly  bear  differs  materially  from 
that  of  some  of  my  acquaintances. 

General  Yan  Yliet,  who  at  one  time  was  stationed  at  Fort 
Laramie,  was  hunting  in  the  Black  Hills,  when  he  suddenly 
came  into  close  proximity  with  a large  grizzly  bear,  and 
gave  him  a shot,  wounding  him  in  one  of  the  fore  legs. 
This  only  served  to  exasperate  the  animal,  and,  instead  of 
running  away,  he  took  the  offensive,  and  charged  upon  the 
general,  who  was  mounted  upon  a good  horse,  but  he  had 
never  before  seen  one  of  the  hideous-looking  monsters,  and 
was  so  much  terrified  at  his  appearance  that  he  became  al- 
most paralyzed,  and  could  hardly  move ; and  the  most  vig- 
orous application  of  the  spurs  had  no  effect  in  accelerating 
his  speed,  until  the  bear  came  up  and  struck  him  in  the 
buttock  with  one  of  his  huge  paws,  which  restored  his  pow- 
ers of  locomotion,  and  he  bounded  off  with  lightning  speed, 
and  carried  his  rider  out  of  danger.  The  general  subse- 
quently killed  the  bear. 

My  first  bear  was  killed  in  rather  a novel  manner,  in  the 
hills  bordering  Pecan  Bayou,  Texas,  in  1850,  while  I was 
examining  the  country  with  the  view  of  establishing  a new 
military  post.  Attached  to  my  command  were  several  Del- 
aware hunters,  to  whom  I had  expressed  an  earnest  desire 
of  adding  the  ursine  monarch  to  the  list  of  my  hunting  tro- 


322 


INDIANS  DRIVING  A BEAR. 


phies,  and  they  very  obligingly  promised  to  afford  me  ev- 
ery facility  in  their  power  to  gratify  my  ambition. 

One  day,  while  hunting  alone,  in  an  exceedingly  wild  and 
solitary  locality,  I heard  in  the  distance  the  sound  of  loud 
whooping  and  screaming  of  Indians,  who  apparently  were 
approaching  toward  me.  I was  in  the  woods  at  the  time, 
and  could  not  discern  objects  very  far  off,  but  as  this  was 
in  a section  frequented  by  wild  Indians,  I thought  it  by  no 
means  improbable  that  the  sounds  proceeded  from  some  of 
them,  and  I hastened  to  a position  behind  a large  rock 
where  I could  screen  myself  and  horse,  and  at  the  same 
time  observe  every  thing  in  front.  The  sound  continued 
to  advance,  until  at  length,  to  my  great  relief  (for  I must 
confess  I was  considerably  excited  just  then),  I discovered 
a black  bear  emerge  from  the  woods,  with  three  of  the  Del- 
awares whooping  most  vociferously  in  hot  pursuit,  and  all 
coming  directly  to  where  I stood.  I mounted  my  horse, 
and,  joining  in  the  chase,  had  the  good  fortune  to  kill  the 
bear  at  the  first  shot. 

The  Indians  informed  me  that  they  had  driven  the  ani- 
mal for  nearly  a mile,  and  were  on  the  way  back  to  the 
command  for  the  express  purpose  of  giving  me  an  oppor- 
tunity to  kill  it.  He  had,  several  times  during  the  drive , 
taken  to  trees,  but  in  every  instance  they  had  climbed  up 
and  shaken  him  down.  They  laughed  most  heartily  in  de- 
scribing to  me  the  efforts  of  the  animal  to  make  his  escape 
from  them,  and  congratulated  me  on  the  occasion  of  killing 
my  u first  bear.” 

Black  Beaver  says  he  was  once  in  a canoe  pursuing  a 
black  bear  that  had  taken  the  water  to  cross  the  Missouri 
River.  On  coming  near  the  animal  he  gave  him  a shot, 
but  the  ball  only  grazed  the  top  of  his  head,  and  he  turned, 
swam  up  to  the  canoe,  and,  placing  his  paws  upon  the  gun- 
wale,, seemed  determined  to  get  in.  Not  feeling  inclined  to 


" 


■ 


. 

' 

■ 


■ 


THE  GRIZZLY. 


SAGACITY  OF  BEARS. 


325 


take  such  a passenger  into  his  frail  craft,  he  endeavored  to 
keep  him  off  by  striking  him  over  the  head  with  his  dis- 
charged rifle,  but  this  only  had  the  effect  to  infuriate  him, 
and  make  him  the  more  persistent  in  his  apparent  determ- 
ination to  embark  in  the  dug-out.  He  then  resorted  to  an 
expedient  he  had  heard  of,  but  never  before  practiced.  It 
was,  to  lay  his  paddle  across  upon  the  top  of  the  bear’s 
neck,  which  caused  him  to  let  go  his  hold  upon  the  canoe, 
seize  the  paddle  on  each  side  of  his  neck,  and  immediately 
sink  to  the  bottom,  and  he  was  drowned. 

The  grizzly,  like  the  black  bear,  hibernates  in  winter, 
and  makes  his  appearance  in  the  spring,  with  his  claws 
grown  out  long,  and  very  soft  and  tender ; he  is  then  poor, 
and  unfit  for  food. 

I have  heard  a very  curious  fact  stated  by  several  old 
mountaineers  regarding  the  mountain  bears,  which,  of 
course,  I can  not  vouch  for,  but  it  is  given  by  them  with 
great  apparent  sincerity  and  candor.  They  assert  that  no 
instance  has  ever  been  known  of  a female  bear  having  been 
killed  in  a state  of  pregnancy.  This  singular  fact  in  the 
history  of  the  animal  seems  most  inexplicable  to  me,  unless 
she  remains  concealed  in  her  brumal  slumber  until  after 
she  has  been  delivered  of  her  cubs. 

I was  told  by  an  old  Delaware  Indian  that  when  the  bear 
has  been  traveling  against  the  wind  and  wishes  to  lie  down, 
he  always  turns  in  an  opposite  direction,  and  goes  some  dis- 
tance away  from  his  first  track  before  making  his  bed.  If 
an  enemy  then  comes  upon  his  trail,  his  keen  sense  of  smell 
will  apprise  him  of  the  danger.  The  same  Indian  mention- 
ed that  when  a bear  had  been  pursued  and  sought  shelter 
in  a cave,  he  had  often  endeavored  to  eject  him  with  smoke, 
but  that  the  bear  would  advance  to  the  mouth  of  the  cave, 
where  the  fire  was  burning,  and  put  it  out  with  his  paws, 
then  retreat  into  the  cave  again.  This  would  indicate  that 

2 E 


326 


LASSOING  BEARS. 


Bruin  is  endowed  with  some  glimpses  of  reason  beyond  the 
ordinary  instincts  of  the  brute  creation  in  general,  and,  in- 
deed, is  capable  of  discerning  the  connection  between  cause 
and  effect.  Notwithstanding  the  extraordinary  intelligence 
which  this  quadruped  exhibits  upon  some  occasions,  upon 
others  he  shows  himself  to  be  one  of  the  most  stupid  brutes 
imaginable.  For  example,  when  he  has  taken  possession  of 
a cavern,  and  the  courageous  hunter  enters  with  a torch  and 
rifle,  it  is  said  he  will,  instead  of  forcibly  ejecting  the  in- 
truder, raise  himself  upon  his  haunches  and  cover  his  eyes 
with  his  paws,  so  as  to  exclude  the  light,  apparently  think- 
ing that  in  this  situation  he  can  not  be  seen.  The  hunter 
can  then  approach  as  close  as  he  pleases  and  shoot  him 
down. 

LASSOING  GRIZZLY  BEARS. 

The  Spanish  vaqueros  of  California,  who,  by  the  constant 
exercise  of  their  vocation,  become  astonishingly  expert  in 
throwing  the  lasso,  occasionally  capture  the  grizzly  bear 
with  it.  As  this  curious  and  somewhat  hazardous  method 
of  hunting  is  well  described  by  Mr.  J.  Ross  Browne,  in  his 
interesting  book  on  California,  I do  not  know  how  to  give 
a better  idea  of  it  than  to  quote  his  own  words.  It  appear- 
ed that  while  he  was  in  the  valley  of  the  Santa  Marguerita, 
he  saw  a large  animal  coming  toward  him  pursued  by  four 
horsemen,  upon  which  he  concealed  himself  in  a ravine. 
He  says : “ Scarcely  had  I partially  concealed  myself  when 
I heard  a loud  shouting  from  the  men  on  horseback,  and, 
peeping  over  the  bank,  saw  within  fifty  or  sixty  paces  a 
huge  grizzly  bear,  but  no  longer  retreating.  He  had  faced 
round  toward  his  pursuers,  and  now  seemed  determined  to 
fight.  The  horsemen  were  evidently  native  Californians, 
and  managed  their  animals  with  wonderful  skill  and  grace. 
The  nearest  swept  down  like  an  avalanche  toward  the  bear, 


A GRIZZLY  LASSOED. 


327 


while  the  others  coursed  off  a short  distance  in  a circling 
direction  to  prevent  his  escape.  Suddenly  swerving  a lit- 
tle to  one  side,  the  leader  whirled  his  lasso  once  or  twice 
around  his  head,  and  let  fly  at  his  game  with  unerring  aim. 
The  loop  caught  one  of  the  fore  paws,  and  the  bear  was  in- 
stantly jerked  down  upon  his  haunches,  struggling  and 
roaring  with  all  his  might.  It  was  a striking  instance  of 
the  power  of  the  rider  over  the  horse,  that,  wild  with  ter- 
ror as  the  latter  was,  he  dared  not  disobey  the  slightest 
pressure  of  the  rein,  but  went  through  all  the  evolutions, 
blowing  trumpet  - blasts  from  his  nostrils,  and  with  eyes 
starting  from  their  sockets.  Despite  the  strain  kept  upon 
the  lasso,  the  bear  soon  regained  his  feet,  and  commenced 
hauling  in  the  spare  line  with  his  fore  paws  so  as  to  get 
within  reach  of  the  horse.  He  had  advanced  within  ten 
feet  before  the  nearest  of  the  other  horsemen  could  bring 
his  lasso  to  bear  upon  him.  The  first  throw  was  at  his 
hind  legs — the  main  object  being  to  stretch  him  out — but 
it  missed.  Another  more  fortunate  cast  took  him  round 
the  neck.  Both  riders  pulled  in  opposite  directions,  and 
the  bear  soon  rolled  on  the  ground  again,  biting  furiously 
at  the  lassos,  and  uttering  the  most  terrific  roars.  The 
strain  upon  his  neck  soon  choked  off  his  breath,  and  he 
was  forced  to  let  loose  his  grasp  upon  the  other  lasso. 
While  struggling  to  free  his  neck,  the  two  other  horsemen 
dashed  up,  swinging  their  lassos  and  shouting  with  all  their 
might  so  as  to  attract  his  attention.  The  nearest,  watching 
narrowly  every  motion  of  the  frantic  animal,  soon  let  fly 
his  lasso,  and  made  a lucky  hitch  around  one  of  his  hind 
legs.  The  other,  following  quickly  with  a large  loop,  swung 
it  entirely  over  the  bear’s  body,  and  all  four  riders  now  set 
up  a yell  of  triumph,  and  began  pulling  in  opposite  direc- 
tions. The  writhing,  pitching,  and  straining  of  the  pow- 
erful monster  were  now  absolutely  fearful.  A dust  arose 


328 


AN  AMATEUR  SPORTSMAN. 


over  him,  and  the  earth  flew  up  in  every  direction.  Some- 
times by  a desperate  effort  he  regained  his  feet,  and  actu- 
ally dragged  one  or  more  of  the  horses  toward  him  by 
main  strength ; but  whenever  he  attempted  this,  the  others 
stretched  their  lassos,  and  either  choked  him  or  jerked 
him  down  upon  his  haunches.  It  was  apparent  that  his 
wind  was  giving  out,  partly  by  reason  of  the  long  chase, 
and  partly  owing  to  the  noose  around  his  throat.  A gen- 
eral pull  threw  him  once  more  upon  his  back.  Before  he 
could  regain  his  feet,  the  horsemen,  by  a series  of  dexterous 
manoeuvres,  wound  him  completely  up,  so  that  he  lay  per- 
fectly quiet  upon  the  ground,  breathing  heavily,  and  utterly 
unable  to  extricate  his  paws  from  the  labyrinth  of  lassos  in 
which  he  was  entangled.  One  of  the  riders  now  gave  the 
reins  of  his  horse  to  another  and  dismounted.  Cautiously 
approaching,  with  a spare  riata  he  cast  a noose  over  the 
bear’s  fore  paws,  and  wound  the  remaining  part  tightly 
round  the  neck,  so  that  what  strength  might  still  have  been 
left  was  speedily  exhausted  by  suffocation.  This  done,  an- 
other rider  dismounted,  and  the  two  succeeded  in  binding 
their  victim  so  firmly  by  the  paws  that  it  was  impossible 
for  him  to  break  loose.  They  next  bound  his  jaws  to- 
gether by  means  of  another  riata , winding  it  all  the  way 
up  around  his  head,  upon  which  they  loosened  the  fastening 
around  his  neck  so  as  to  give  him  air.  When  all  was  se- 
cure, they  freed  the  lassos  and  again  mounted  their  horses.” 

The  bear  was  secured,  and  subsequently  hauled  away  for 
a grand  bull-fight. 

AN  AMATEUR  SPORTSMAN. 

Although  four  expert  vaqueros  might  with  safety  at- 
tempt and  succeed  in  capturing  a full-grown  grizzly  bear, 
yet  I should  imagine  that  it  would  hardly  be  advisable  for 
one  or  two  men  to  undertake  the  same  feat. 


LASSOING  THE  GRIZZLY 








AN  AMATEUR’S  LASSO. 


331 


I have  heard  it  stated  that  a naval  officer  many  years 
ago  made  the  experiment  of  hunting  the  animal  with  the 
lasso,  but  his  success  was  by  no  means  as  decisive  as  in  the 
instance  related  by  Mr.  Browne.  This  officer  had,  it  ap- 
peared, by  constant  practice  upon  the  ship  while  making 
the  long  and  tiresome  voyage  round  the  Horn,  acquired 
very  considerable  proficiency  in  the  use  of  the  lasso,  and 
was  able,  at  twenty  or  thirty  paces,  to  throw  the  noose  over 
the  head  of  the  negro  cook  at  almost  every  cast.  So  con- 
fident had  he  become  in  his  skill,  that  on  his  arrival  upon 
the  coast  of  Southern  California  he  employed  a guide,  and, 
mounted  upon  a well-trained  horse,  with  his  lasso  properly 
coiled  and  ready  for  use,  he  one  morning  set  out  for  the 
mountains  with  the  firm  resolve  of  bagging  a few  grizzlies 
before  night.  He  had  not  been  out  a great  while  before  he 
encountered  one  of  the  largest  specimens  of  the  mighty 
beast,  whose  terrific  aspect  amazed  him  not  a little ; but,  as 
he  had  come  out  with  a firm  determination  to  capture  a 
grizzly,  in  direct  opposition  to  the  advice  of  his  guide  he 
resolved  to  show  him  that  he  was  equal  to  the  occasion. 
Accordingly  he  seized  his  lasso,  and,  riding  up  near  the  an- 
imal, gave  it  several  rapid  whirls  above  his  head  in  the 
most  artistic  manner,  and  sent  the  noose  directly  around 
the  bear’s  neck  at  the  very  first  cast ; but  the  animal,  in- 
stead of  taking  to  his  heels  and  endeavoring  to  run  away 
as  he  had  anticipated,  very  deliberately  sat  up  on  his 
haunches,  facing  his  adversary,  and  commenced  making  a 
very  careful  examination  of  the  rope.  He  turned  his  head 
from  one  side  to  the  other  in  looking  at  it ; he  felt  it  with 
his  paws,  and  scrutinized  it  very  closely,  as  if  it  was  some- 
thing he  could  not  comprehend.  In  the  mean  time  the 
officer  had  turned  his  horse  in  the  opposite  direction,  and 
commenced  applying  the  rowels  to  his  sides  most  vigorous- 
ly, with  the  confident  expectation  that  he  was  to  choke  the 


332 


CATCHING  A TARTAR. 


bear  to  death  and  drag  him  off  in  triumph ; but,  to  his  as- 
tonishment, the  horse,  with  his  utmost  efforts,  did  not  seem 
to  advance.  The  great  strain  upon  the  lasso,  however,  be- 
gan to  choke  the  bear  so  much  that  he  soon  became  en- 
raged, and  gave  the  rope  several  violent  slaps,  first  with  one 
paw  and  then  with  the  other ; but,  finding  that  this  did  not 
relieve  him,  he  seized  the  lasso  with  both  paws,  and  com- 
menced pulling  it  in  hand  over  hand,  or  rather  paw  over 
paw,  and  bringing  with  it  the  horse  and  rider  that  were  at- 
tached to  the  opposite  extremity.  The  officer  redoubled 
the  application  of  both  whip  and  spurs,  but  it  was  all  of  no 
avail ; he  had  evidently  “ caught  a Tartar,”  and,  in  spite 
of  all  the  efforts  of  his  horse,  he  recoiled  rather  than  ad- 
vanced. At  this  intensely  exciting  and  critical  juncture  he 
cast  a hasty  glance  to  the  rear,  and,  to  his  horror,  found 
himself  steadily  backing  toward  the  frightful  monster,  who 
sat  up  with  his  eyes  glaring  like  balls  of  fire,  his  huge 
mouth  wide  open  and  frothing  with  rage,  and  sending  forth 
the  most  terrific  and  deep-toned  roars.  He  now,  for  the 
first  time,  felt  seriously  alarmed,  and  cried  out  vociferously 
for  his  guide  to  come  to  his  rescue.  The  latter  responded 
promptly,  rode  up,  cut  the  lasso,  and  extricated  the  ama- 
teur gentleman  from  his  perilous  position.  He  was  much 
rejoiced  at  his  escape,  and,  in  reply  to  the  inquiry  of  the 
guide  as  to  whether  he  desired  to  continue  the  hunt,  he  said 
it  was  getting  so  late  that  he  believed  he  would  capture  no 
more  grizzlies  that  day. 

I do  not,  of  course,  pretend  to  vouch  for  the  authenticity 
of  the  foregoing  narrative ; I have  merely  given  it  in  the 
way  it  was  related  to  me,  as  a good  story,  the  truth  of 
which  the  reader  can  judge  of  as  well  as  myself.  I have 
no  doubt,  however,  that  an  animal  of  such  extraordinary 
proportions,  possessing  such  enormous  development  of  bone 
and  muscle,  and  whose  strength  is  asserted  as  sufficient  to 


THE  BIG-HORN. 


388 


enable  him  to  drag  off  a full-grown  buffalo,  could  compete 
successfully  with  a California  horse  in  a contest  of  physical 
powers.  I therefore  see  nothing  improbable  in  the  account 
given  above. 


THE  BIG-HORN. 

The  big-horn  or  mountain  sheep,  which  has  a body  like 
the  deer,  with  the  head  of  a sheep,  surmounted  by  an  enor- 
mous pair  of  short,  heavy  horns^  is  found  throughout  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  resorts  to  the  most  inaccessible  peaks 
and  to  the  widest  and  least-frequented  glens.  It  clambers 
over  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  with  the  greatest  ease  and 
celerity,  and  skips  from  rock  to  rock,  cropping  the  tender 
herbage  that  grows  upon  them. 

It  has  been  supposed  by  some  that  this  animal  leaps 
down  from  crag  to  crag,  lighting  upon  his  horns,  as  an  evi- 
dence of  which  it  has  been  advanced  that  the  front  part  of 
the  horns  is  often  much  battered.  This  I believe  to  be  er- 
roneous, as  it  is  very  common  to  see  horns  that  have  no 
bruises  upon  them. 

The  old  mountaineers  say  they  have  often  seen  the  bucks 
engaged  in  desperate  encounters  with  their  huge  horns, 
which,  in  striking  together,  made  loud  reports.  This  will 
account  for  the  marks  sometimes  seen  upon  them. 

The  flesh  of  the  big-horn,  when  fat,  is  more  tender,  juicy, 
and  delicious  than  that  of  any  other  animal  I know  of,  but 
it  is  a bon  louche  which  will  not  grace  the  tables  of  our  city 
epicures  until  a railroad  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  affords  the 
means  of  transporting  it  to  a market  a thousand  miles  dis- 
tant from  its  haunts. 

In  its  habits  the  mountain  sheep  greatly  resembles  the 
chamois  of  Switzerland,  and  it  is  hunted  in  the  same  man- 
ner. The  hunter  traverses  the  most  inaccessible  and  broken 
localities,  moving  along  with  great  caution,  as  the  least  un- 


334 


BUFFALO. 


usual  noise  causes  them  to  flit  away  like  a phantom,  and 
they  will  be  seen  no  more.  The  animal  is  gregarious,  but 
it  is  seldom  that  more  than  eight  or  ten  are  found  in  a 
flock.  When  not  grazing  they  seek  the  sheltered  sides  of 
the  mountains,  and  repose  among  the  rocks. 

BISON  OR  BUFFALO. 

This  largest  and  most  useful  animal,  that  is  indigenous  to 
this  continent,  was  first  seen  by  Europeans  in  an  individual 
specimen  exhibited  to  Cortez  and  his  followers  in  a kind  of 
menagerie,  or  zoological  collection  of  Montezuma  at  Mexico 
in  1521.  The  animal  had  been  procured  in  the  north,  and 
brought  here  by  the  natives,  to  whom  the  Aztec  monarch 
intrusted  the  collection  of  rare  birds  and  quadrupeds. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  the  expedition  of  Coronado 
into  New  Mexico  in  1541  that  the  vast  ranges  of  the  quad- 
ruped were  discovered.  The  Spanish  explorers  found  none 
throughout  the  mountainous  districts  of  New  Mexico,  but 
met  with  the  herds  in  countless  numbers  in  the  prairies  east 
of  the  Del  Norte,  in  the  region  about  the  South  Fork  of  the 
Arkansas. 

Castenada’s  narrative  has  the  following:  “On  Coronado 
went,  traversing  immense  plains,  seeing  nothing  for  miles 
together  but  skies  and  herds  of  bison ; hundreds  of  these 
were  killed.” 

De  Soto,  in  the  same  year,  met  with  the  buffalo  after  he 
crossed  the  Mississippi  River,  and  penetrated  into  the  coun- 
try now  embraced  within  the  limits  of  Arkansas  and  Mis- 
souri. De  Soto  applied  the  term  vaca  to  the  animal,  and 
the  word  boeuf  was  afterward  given  by  the  French,  which 
merely  indicated  its  identity  with  the  species  of  our  domes- 
tic cattle.  Linnaeus  gave  it  the  name  of  bison,  in  contra- 
distinction to  the  Asiatic  buffalo;  but  the  name  by  which 
the  peculiar  species  in  our  country  is  generally  known  is 
“buffalo.” 


BUFFALO  NEAR  THE  ATLANTIC. 


335 


In  a work  published  at  Amsterdam  in  1637,  called  “ New 
English  Canaan,”  by  Thomas  Morton,  one  of  the  first  set- 
tlers of  New  England,  he  says : “ The  Indians  have  also 
made  description  of  the  great  heards  of  well-growne  beasts 
that  live  about  the  parts  of  this  lake  (Erocoise),  now  Lake 
Champlain,  such  as  the  Christian  world  (until  this  discov- 
ery) hath  not  bin  made  acquainted  with.  The  beasts  are 
of  the  bigness  of  a coue,  their  flesh  being  very  good  foode, 
their  hides  good  leather,  their  fleeces  very  useful,  being  a 
kind  of  woole,  as  fine  almost  as  the  woole  of  the  beaver,  and 
the  salvages  do  make  garments  thereof.  It  is  tenne  yeares 
since  first  the  relation  of  these  things  came  to  the  eares  of 
the  English.” 

It  is  stated  by  another  author  (Purchas)  that  as  early  as 
in  1613  the  adventurers  in  Virginia  discovered  a “slow 
kinde  of  cattell  as  bigge  as  kine,  which  were  good  meate.” 

In  a work  published  in  London  in  1589,  by  Hakluyt,  it 
is  said  that  in  the  island  of  Newfoundland  were  found 
“mightie  beastes,  like  to  camels  in  greatness,  and  their 
feete  were  cloven.”  He  adds:  “I  did  see  them  farre  off, 
not  able  to  descerne  them  perfectly ; but  their  steps  (tracks) 
showed  their  feete  were  cloven,  and  bigger  than  the  feete  of 
camels.  I suppose  them  to  be  a kind  of  buffes,  which  I 
read  to  bee  in  the  countreys  adjacent,  and  very  many  in 
the  firme  land.” 

It  is  supposed  by  some  that  these  animals  may  have  been 
the  musk-ox.  They  were  found  by  Captain  Franklin  as 
high  as  60°  north  latitude.  I am  inclined  to  doubt  this, 
however,  as  the  musk-ox  has  not,  I believe,  been  found  in 
large  herds. 

What  were  formerly  the  precise  limits  of  the  buffalo 
range  the  history  of  the  early  settlement  of  the  country 
does  not  inform  us.  That  it  embraced  nearly  all  that  vast 
area  lying  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  Mount- 


336 


RANGE  OF  BUFFALO. 


ains  there  is  abundant  evidence  to  show.  They  were  also 
found  in  Illinois  and  Indiana,  and  extended  south  as  far  as 
Ohio  and  Kentucky : but  there  is  no  record  of  their  having 
ever  been  seen  within  the  present  limits  of  Florida,  although 
it  is  only  a few  years  since  they  were  abundant  in  the  same 
latitude  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Gulf,  in  Texas.  It  is 
but  a few  years  since  some  of  the  animals  were  seen  in  the 
timbered  country  near  the  head  of  the  St.  Francis  River,  in 
Arkansas.  They  formerly  thronged  the  present  area  of 
Kentucky,  and  they  were  said  to  have  extended  their  east- 
ern range  to  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie.  They  were  also  at 
one  time  abundant  in  Southern  Wisconsin,  and  crossed  the 
Mississippi  above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  in  Minnesota, 
for  the  last  time,  it  is  believed,  in  1820. 

Two  buffaloes  were  killed  by  the  Sioux  Indians  upon 
the  “ Trempe  a l’Eau,”  in  Upper  Wisconsin,  in  1832,  “ and 
they  are  supposed  to  have  been  the  last  specimens  of  the 
noble  bison  which  trod,  or  will  ever  again  tread  the  soil 
of  the  region  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi  River”  (H.  H. 
Sibley). 

If  the  statements  of  Morton,  Purchas,  and  Hakluyt  are 
to  be  relied  upon,  the  buffalo  formerly  extended  his  wan- 
derings as  far  east  of  the  Alleghany  range  as  the  Atlantic 
Ocean. 

The  western  limits  of  the  buffalo  range  at  an  early  period 
are  not  certainly  defined,  but  they  have  seldom  been  seen 
on  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

They  go  into  high  northern  latitudes  even  to  the  present 
day,  and  often  pass  the  winter  in  the  mountainous  districts, 
where  the  snow  remains  upon  the  ground  during  the  entire 
winter.  Early  in  the  spring  of  1858  I found  them  in  the 
mountains  at  the  head  of  the  Arkansas  and  South  Platte 
Rivers,  and  there  was  every  indication  that  this  was  their 
permanent  abiding-place.  It  is  not  more  than  half  a cen- 


DESTRUCTION  OF  BUFFALOES. 


337 


tury  since  the  buffalo  thronged  in  countless  multitudes  over 
nearly  all  that  vast  area  included  between  Mexico  and  the 
British  Possessions.  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  descending  the 
Missouri  in  July,  1806,  estimated  that  at  one  place  they  be- 
held twenty  thousand  buffaloes  at  a single  view.  At  an- 
other place  they  saw  such  a multitude  of  the  animals  cross- 
ing the  river  that  the  stream  for  a mile  was  so  filled  up 
they  could  not  proceed  until  the  herd  had  passed. 

The  buffaloes  formerly  ranged  free  and  uninterrupted 
over  the  Great  Plains  of  the  West,  only  guided  in  their 
course  by  that  faithful  instinct  which  invariably  led  them 
to  the  freshest  and  sweetest  pastures.  Their  only  enemy 
then  was  the  Indian,  who  supplied  himself  with  food  and 
clothing  from  the  herds  around  the  door  of  his  lodge,  but 
would  have  looked  upon  it  as  sacrilege  to  destroy  more 
than  barely  sufficient  to  supply  the  wants  of  his  family. 
Thus  this  monarch  of  the  Plains  was  allowed  free  range 
from  one  extremity  of  the  continent  to  the  other.  But  this 
happy  state  of  things  was  not  destined  to  continue.  With 
the  advent  of  the  European  an  enemy  appeared,  who  made 
war  upon  them,  and  the  insatiate  slaughter  inflicted  upon 
them  by  this  avaricious  stranger  in  a few  years  produced  a 
very  sensible  diminution  in  their  numbers,  and  greatly  con- 
tracted the  limits  of  their  wanderings.  This  enemy,  in  his 
steady  advance,  also  caused  the  original  proprietor  of  the 
soil  to  recede  before  him,  and  to  diminish  in  numbers  al- 
most as  rapidly  as  the  buffalo.  Thousands  of  these  animals 
were  annually  slaughtered  for  their  skins,  and  often  for 
their  tongues  alone ; animals  whose  flesh  is  sufficient  to  af- 
ford sustenance  to  a large  number  of  men  are  sacrificed  to 
furnish  a bon  louche  for  the  rich  epicure.  This  wholesale 
slaughter  on  the  part  of  the  white  man,  with  the  number 
consumed  by  the  Indians,  who  are  constantly  on  their  trail, 
migrating  with  them  as  regularly  as  the  season  comes 

2 F 


338 


H.  H.  SIBLEY  S VIEWS. 


round,  with  the  ravenous  wolves  that  are  always  at  hand 
to  destroy  one  of  them  if  wounded,  gives  the  poor  beast 
but  little  rest  or  prospect  of  permanent  existence.  It  is 
only  fourteen  years  since  the  western  borders  of  Texas 
abounded  with  buffaloes ; but  now  they  seldom  go  south  of 
Red  River,  and  their  range  upon  the  east  and  west  has  also 
very  much  contracted  within  the  same  time,  so  that  they 
are  at  present  confined  to  a narrow  belt  of  country  between 
the  outer  settlements  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  With  this 
rapid  diminution  in  their  numbers,  they  must,  in  the  course 
of  a very  few  years,  become  exterminated. 

In  a very  interesting  paper  upon  this  matter,  written  by 
the  Hon.  H.  H.  Sibley,  of  Minnesota,  who  is  himself  an  ex- 
cellent sportsman,  and  perfectly  well  acquainted  with  the 
subject  upon  which  he  treats, I find  the  following: 

“ The  multitudes  of  these  animals  (buffaloes)  which  have 
hitherto  darkened  the  surface  of  the  great  prairies  on  the 
west  of  the  ‘Father  of  Waters’  are  fast  wasting  away  under 
the  fierce  assaults  made  upon  them  by  the  white  man  as 
well  as  the  savage.  From  data  which,  although  not  mathe- 
matically correct,  are  sufficiently  so  to  enable  us  to  arrive 
at  conclusions  approximating  the  truth,  it  has  been  esti- 
mated that  for  each  buffalo  robe  transported  from  the  In- 
dian country  at  least  five  animals  are  destroyed.  If  it  be 
borne  in  mind  that  very  few  robes  are  manufactured  of  the 
hides  of  buffalo,  except  of  such  as,  in  hunter’s  parlance,  are 
killed  when  they  are  in  season — that  is,  during  the  months 
of  November,  December,  and  January,  and  that  even  of 
these  a large  proportion  are  not  used  for  that  purpose,  and 
also  that  the  skins  of  cows  are  principally  converted  into 
robes,  those  of  the  males  being  too  thick  and  heavy  to  be 
easily  reduced  by  the  ordinary  process  of  scraping,  togeth- 
er with  the  fact  that  many  thousands  are  annually  destroy- 
ed through  sheer  wantonness  by  civilized  as  well  as  savage 


RANGE  OF  BUFFALO. 


339 


men,  it  will  be  found  that  the  foregoing  estimate  is  a mod- 
erate one.  From  the  Missouri  region,  the  number  of  robes 
received  varies  from  40,000  to  100,000  per  annum,  so  that 
from  a quarter  to  half  a million  of  buffalo  are  destroyed  in 
the  period  of  each  twelve  months.  So  enormous  a drain 
must  soon  result  in  the  extermination  of  the  whole  race ; 
and  it  may  be  asserted  with  certainty  that  in  twenty  years 
from  this  time,  the  buffalo,  if  existing  at  all,  will  be  only 
found  in  the  wildest  recesses  of  the  Bocky  Mountains.  The 
savage  bands  of  the  West,  whose  progenitors  have  from 
time  immemorial  depended  mainly  upon  the  buffalo,  must, 
with  them,  disappear  from  the  earth,  unless  they  resort  to 
other  means  of  subsistence,  under  the  fostering  care  of  the 
general  government.” 

The  traveler,  in  crossing  the  Plains  from  Texas  or  Ar- 
kansas, through  Southern  New  Mexico  to  California,  does 
not,  at  the  present  day,  encounter  the  buffalo.  Upon  the 
direct  route  from  Fort  Leavenworth  to  Santa  Fe  they  are 
almost  invariably  met  with  between  the  99th  and  102d 
meridians  of  longitude,  and  they  are  often  seen  upon  the 
South  Platte,  along  the  road  from  St.  Joseph  to  Denver 
and  Fort  Laramie,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Kearney. 

In  1859  I passed  across  from  the  Missouri  Eiver  at  Fort 
Eandall  to  Fort  Laramie,  a distance  of  three  hundred  and 
sixty  miles,  over  a country  that  has  very  seldom  been  trav- 
eled by  a white  man,  and,  to  my  surprise,  I did  not  see  a 
buffalo,  and  there  was  no  indication  of  their  having  been 
upon  the  immediate  track  I followed  for  three  years.  They 
are  rapidly  disappearing,  and  a very  few  years  will,  at  the 
present  rate  of  destruction,  be  sufficient  to  exterminate  the 
species. 

There  are  two  methods  generally  practiced  in  hunting 
. the  buffalo,  viz.,  running  them  on  horseback,  and  stalking, 
or  still  hunting.  The  first  method  requires  a sure-footed 


340 


BUFFALO  CHASING. 


and  tolerably  fleet  horse  that  is  not  easily  frightened.  The 
buffalo  cow,  which  makes  much  better  beef  than  the  bull, 
when  pursued  by  the  hunter  runs  rapidly,  and,  unless  the 
horse  be  fleet,  it  requires  a long  and  exhausting  chase  to 
overtake  her. 

When  the  buffaloes  are  discovered,  and  the  hunter  intends 
to  give  chase,  he  should  first  dismount,  arrange  his  saddle- 
blanket  and  saddle,  buckle  the  girth  tight,  and  make  every 
thing  about  his  horse  furniture  snug  and  secure.  He  should 
then  put  his  arms  in  good  firing  order,  and,  taking  the  lee 
side  of  the  herd,  so  that  they  may  not  get “ the  wind ” of  him, 
he  should  approach  in  a walk  as  close  as  possible,  taking 
advantage  of  any  cover  that  may  offer.  His  horse  then, 
being  cool  and  fresh,  will  be  able  to  dash  into  the  herd,  and 
probably  carry  his  rider  very  near  the  animal  he  has  select- 
ed before  he  becomes  alarmed. 

If  the  hunter  be  right-handed,  and  uses  a pistol,  he  should 
approach  upon  the  left  side,  and  when  nearly  opposite  and 
close  upon  the  buffalo,  deliver  his  shot,  taking  aim  a little 
below  the  centre  of  the  body,  and  about  eight  inches  back 
of  the  shoulder.  This  will  strike  the  vitals,  and  generally 
render  another  shot  unnecessary. 

When  a rifle  or  shot-gun  is  used  the  hunter  rides  up  on 
the  right  side,  keeping  his  horse  well  in  hand,  so  as  to  be 
able  to  turn  off  if  the  beast  charges  upon  him ; this,  howev- 
er, never  happens  except  with  a buffalo  that  is  wounded, 
when  it  is  advisable  to  keep  out  of  his  reach. 

The  buffalo  has  immense  powers  of  endurance,  and  will 
run  for  many  miles  without  any  apparent  effort  or  diminu- 
tion in  speed.  The  first  buffalo  I ever  saw  I followed  about 
ten  miles,  and  when  I left  him  he  seemed  to  run  faster  than 
when  the  chase  commenced. 

As  a long  buffalo -chase  is  very  severe  labor  upon  a 
horse,  I would  recommend  to  all  travelers,  unless  they  have 


STALKING. 


341 


a good  deal  of  surplus  horse-flesh,  never  to  expend  it  in 
this  sport. 

Still  hunting,  which  requires  no  consumption  of  horse- 
flesh, and  is  equally  successful  with  the  other  method,  is  rec- 
ommended. In  stalking  on  horseback,  the  most  broken 
and  hilly  localities  should  be  selected,  as  these  will  furnish 
cover  to  the  hunter,  who  passes  from  the  crest  of  one  hill  to 
another,  examining  the  country  carefully  in  all  directions. 
When  the  game  is  discovered,  if  it  happen  to  be  on  the  lee 
side,  the  hunter  should  endeavor,  by  making  a wide  detour} 
to  get  upon  the  opposite  side,  as  he  will  find  it  impossible 
to  approach  within  rifle  range  with  the  wind. 

When  the  animal  is  upon  a hill,  or  in  any  other  position 
where  he  can  not  be  approached  without  danger  of  disturb- 
ing him,  the  hunter  should  wait  until  he  moves  off  to  more 
favorable  ground,  and  this  will  not  generally  require  much 
time,  as  they  wander  about  a great  deal  when  not  grazing ; 
he  then  pickets  his  horse,  and  approaches  cautiously,  seek- 
ing to  screen  himself  as  much  as  possible  by  the  undula- 
tions in  the  surface,  or  behind  such  other  objects  as  may  pre- 
sent themselves;  but  if  the  surface  should  offer  no  cover, 
he  must  crawl  upon  his  hands  and  knees  when  near  the 
game,  and  in  this  way  he  can  generally  get  within  rifle 
range. 

Should  there  be  several  animals  together,  and  his  first 
shot  take  effect,  the  hunter  can  often  get  several  other  shots 
before  they  become  frightened.  A Delaware  Indian  and 
myself  once  killed  five  buffaloes  out  of  a small  herd  before 
the  remainder  were  so  much  disturbed  as  to  move  away. 
Although  we  were  within  the  short  distance  of  twenty  yards, 
yet  the  reports  of  our  rifles  did  not  frighten  them  in  the 
least,  and  they  continued  grazing  during  all  the  time  we 
were  loading  and  firing. 

The  sense  of  smelling  is  exceedingly  acute  with  the  buf- 

2 F* 


342 


HAZARDOUS  HUNTING. 


falo,  and  they  will  take  the  wind  from  the  hunter  at  as 
great  a distance  as  a mile. 

When  the  animal  is  wounded,  and  stops,  it  is  better  not 
to  go  near  him  until  he  lies  down,  as  he  will  often  run  a 
great  distance  if  disturbed ; but  if  left  to  himself,  will  in 
many  cases  die  in  a short  time. 

When  buffaloes  are  grazing  upon  an  open  flat  prairie 
where  the  grass  is  short,  affording  no  cover,  the  Indians 
stalk  them  by  covering  themselves  with  a light-colored 
blanket,  and  crawling  along  the  ground  on  their  hands  and 
knees  to  the  leeward  of  the  herd,  and  at  the  same  time 
dragging  their  guns  or  bows  and  arrows  along  with  them. 
If  proper  caution  is  used,  they  are  thus  enabled  to  reach 
the  desired  proximity,  and  may  even  approach  directly  into 
the  midst  of  the  herds  without  giving  alarm. 

It  very  rarely  happens  that  there  is  any  danger  resulting 
from  this  method  of  approach  unless  the  hunter  by  a care- 
less shot  gives  an  animal  a slight  flesh-wound,  which  only 
tends  to  irritate  him.  Instances  have  occurred  under  such 
circumstances  when  the  hunter’s  life  has  been  exposed  to 
imminent  jeopardy.  I once  knew  a case  of  this  kind  in 
which  an  experienced  buffalo-hunter  was  pursued  by  a 
young  bull  for  several  hundred  yards,  and  he  only  effected 
his  escape  by  passing  over  an  elevated  swell  in  the  prairie 
and  hiding  in  some  tall  grass  which  he  was  so  fortunate  as 
to  find  at  this  critical  juncture.  The  buffalo,  on  reaching 
the  top  of  the  eminence,  cast  a glance  around,  but,  not  dis- 
covering his  adversary,  abandoned  the  pursuit  and  walked 
away  in  another  direction. 

When  a man  on  foot  is  pursued  by  a buffalo,  if  he  will 
drop  some  object,  such  as  his  coat,  hat,  or  other  article  of 
dress,  this  will  often  divert  the  animal’s  attention,  and  he 
will  stop  and  vent  his  rage  upon  it,  thus  giving  the  hunter 
time  to  get  out  of  danger. 


LOSING  HORSES. 


343 


When  a herd  of  buffalo  is  pursued  they  generally  run  in 
a solid  mass,  keeping  close  together,  but  with  the  cows  near 
the  front  and  inside,  so  that  it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  reach 
them,  to  penetrate  the  dense  phalanx  of  bulls  occupying 
the  outside.  This  may  be  done  by  riding  along  with  the 
herd  and  gradually  inclining  toward  the  centre  as  openings 
present  themselves ; this,  however,  is  a feat  attended  with 
some  hazard,  and  should  not  be  attempted  by  any  one  with- 
out a well-trained  and  sure-footed  horse,  as,  in  the  event  of 
being  unhorsed,  the  hunter  would  inevitably  be  trampled  to 
pieces  under  the  feet  of  the  buffalo. 

It  is  dangerous  to  chase  a herd  of  buffalo  when  they  raise 
such  a dust  as  to  make  it  difficult  to  see  them  or  to  judge 
accurately  of  their  position. 

The  hunter  should  never  leave  his  horse  near  a herd  of 
buffalo  without  tying  him,  as  horses  will  often  start  off  with 
the  buffalo,  and  are  sometimes  irretrievably  lost  in  this 
way.  One  of  our  officers,  en  route  to  Utah,  jumped  from 
his  horse,  and,  leaving  him  without  tying,  ran  forward  to 
shoot  a buffalo,  when,  much  to  his  astonishment,  his  horse 
suddenly  took  to  his  heels,  joined  the  fleeing  herd  with  sad- 
dle, bridle,  and  other  accoutrements,  continued  with  it  far 
over  the  prairies  out  of  sight,  and  has  not,  I believe,  been 
heard  from  since. 

The  tongues,  humps,  and  marrow-bones  are  regarded  as 
the  choice  parts  of  the  animal.  The  tongue  is  taken  out  by 
ripping  open  the  skin  between  the  prongs  of  the  lower  jaw- 
bone, and  pulling  it  out  through  the  orifice.  The  hump 
may  be  taken  off  by  skinning  down  on  each  side  of  the 
shoulders  and  cutting  away  the  meat,  after  which  the  hump 
ribs  can  be  unjointed  where  they  unite  with  the  spine. 
The  marrow,  when  roasted  in  the  bones,  is  delicious. 

My  friend,  General  Sibley,  in  the  interesting  paper  before 


344 


BOW  AND  ARROW. 


alluded  to,  makes  some  pertinent  remarks  upon  the  buffalo 
chase,  from  which  I take  the  liberty  of  quoting  the  fol- 
lowing : 

“ The  chase  of  the  buffalo  on  horseback  is  highly  excit- 
ing, and  by  no  means  unattended  with  danger.  The  in- 
stinct of  that  animal  leads  him,  when  pursued,  to  select  the 
most  broken  and  difficult  ground  over  which  to  direct  his 
flight,  so  that  many  accidents  occur  to  horse  and  rider  from 
falls,  which  result  in  death,  or  dislocation  of  the  limbs  of 
one  or  both.  When  wounded,  or  too  closely  pressed,  the 
buffalo  will  turn  upon  his  antagonist,  and  not  unfrequently 
the  latter  becomes  the  victim  in  the  conflict,  meeting  his 
death  upon  the  sharp  horns  of  an  infuriated  bull. 

“ In  common  with  the  moose,  the  elk,  and  others  of  the 
same  family,  Nature  has  furnished  the  buffalo  with  exquisite 
powers  of  scent,  upon  which  he  principally  relies  for  warn- 
ing against  danger.  The  inexperienced  voyager  will  often 
be  surprised  to  perceive  the  dense  masses  of  these  cattle 
urging  their  rapid  flight  across  the  prairie,  at  a distance  of 
two  or  three  miles,  without  any  apparent  cause  of  alarm, 
unaware,  as  he  is,  of  the  fact  that  the  tainted  breeze  has  be- 
trayed to  them  his  presence  while  still  far  away. 

11  The  bow  and  arrow,  in  experienced  hands,  constitute 
quite  as  efficient  a weapon  in  the  chase  of  the  buffalo  as  the 
fire-arm,  from  the  greater  rapidity  with  which  the  discharges 
are  made,  and  the  almost  equal  certainty  of  execution.  The 
force  with  which  an  arrow  is  propelled  from  a bow,  wielded 
by  an  Indian  of  far  less  than  the  ordinary  physical  strength 
of  white  men,  is  amazing.  It  is  generally  imbedded  to  the 
feather  in  the  buffalo,  and  sometimes  even  protrudes  on  the 
opposite  side.  It  is  reported  among  the  Dacotahs  or  Sioux 
Indians,  and  generally  credited  by  them,  that  one  of  their 
chiefs,  Wah-na-tah  by  name,  who  was  remarkable,  up  to 
the  close  of  his  life,  for  strength  and  activity  of  frame,  and 


WINTER  HUNTING. 


845 


who  was  equally  renowned  as  a hunter  and  warrior,  on  one 
occasion  discharged  an  arrow  with  sufficient  force  entirely 
to  traverse  the  body  of  a female  buffalo,  and  to  kill  the  calf 
by  her  side.  For  the  accuracy  of  this  statement  I do  not, 
of  course,  pretend  to  vouch.  The  arrow  is  launched  from 
the  bow  while  the  body  of  the  victim  is  elongated  in  mak- 
ing his  forward  spring,  and  the  ribs,  being  then  separated 
from  each  other  as  far  as  possible,  allow  an  easy  entrance 
to  the  missile  between  them. 

“ The  same  instant  is  taken  advantage  of  by  such  of  the 
Western  Indians  as  make  use  of  long  lances  wherewith  to 
destroy  the  buffalo.  Approaching  sufficiently  near  to  the 
particular  cow  he  has  selected  for  his  prey,  the  hunter  al- 
lows the  weapon  to  descend  and  rest  upon  her  back,  which 
causes  her  at  first  to  make  violent  efforts  to  dislodge  it. 
After  a few  trials  the  poor  beast  becomes  accustomed  to  the 
touch,  and  ceases  farther  to  notice  it  in  her  great  anxiety  to 
escape  from  her  pursuer,  who  then,  by  a dexterous  and 
powerful  thrust,  sheathes  the  long  and  sharp  blade  into 
her  vitals,  and  withdraws  it  before  the  animal  falls  to  the 
ground.  This  mode  of  slaughter  is  successful  only  with 
those  who  have  fleet  and  well-trained  horses,  and  who  have 
perfect  reliance  upon  their  own  coolness  and  skill. 

“ When  the  alternate  thawing  and  freezing  during  the 
winter  months  have  formed  a thick  crust  upon  the  deep 
snows  of  the  far  Northwest,  the  buffalo  falls  an  easy  victim 
to  the  Indian,  who  glides  rapidly  over  the  surface  upon  his 
snow-shoes,  while  the  former  finds  his  powers  of  locomotion 
almost  paralyzed  by  the  breaking  of  the  icy  crust  beneath 
his  ponderous  weight.  He  can  then  be  approached  with 
absolute  impunity,  and  dispatched  with  the  gun,  the  arrow, 
or  the  lance. 

“ It  sometimes  happens  that  a whole  herd  is  surrounded 
and  driven  upon  the  clear  ice  of  a lake,  in  which  case  they 


846 


HYBRIDS. 


spread  out  and  fall  powerless,  to  be  mercilessly  massacred 
by  their  savage  pursuers.  It  is  a well-known  fact  that,  sev- 
eral years  since,  nearly  a hundred  buffaloes  attempted  to 
cross  Lac  qui  Parle , in  Minnesota,  upon  the  ice,  which,  not 
being  sufficiently  strong  to  bear  so  enormous  a pressure, 
gave  way,  and  the  whole  number  miserably  perished.  The 
meat  furnished  a supply  of  food  for  many  weeks  to  the 
people  at  the  neighboring  'trading-post,  as  well  as  to  the  In- 
dians, and  to  the  wolves  and  foxes. 

“ In  the  northern  part  of  Minnesota,  on  both  sides  of  the 
line  dividing  the  United  States  from  the  British  Posses- 
sions, there  is  to  be  found  a large  population,  consisting 
mostly  of  mixed  bloods.  These  men  possess,  in  an  emi- 
nent degree,  the  physical  energy  and  powers  of  endurance 
of  the  white  man,  combined  with  the  activity,  subtlety,  and 
skill  in  hunting  of  the  Indian.  They  are  fine  horsemen, 
and  remarkably  dexterous  in  the  chase  of  the  buffalo. 
Half  farmer  and  half  hunter,  they  till  the  ground,  and  raise 
fine  crops  of  wheat  and  other  cereals,  while  semi-annually 
they  repair  to  the  buffalo  region  to  procure  meat,  which 
they  cure  in  divers  ways,  and  dispose  of  to  our  own  citizens, 
and  to  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  for  the  supply  of  their 
inland  trading-posts.  Being  numerous,  and  well  supplied 
with  horses,  oxen,  and  carts,  the  number  of  buffaloes  annu- 
ally slaughtered  by  them  is  astonishing.” 

It  has  been  thought  by  many  persons  that  the  buffalo 
would  cross  with  the  domestic  cattle,  and  I have  several 
times  seen  domestic  animals  upon  the  frontier  which  were 
said  to  have  been  hybrids  of  the  two  species  of  the  Bos 
family,  but  I am  very  firm  in  the  belief  that  there  are  no 
properly  authenticated  instances  where  these  animals  have 
bred  together.  A trader  among  the  Chickasaws  collected 
about  forty  buffalo  some  years  since,  and,  although  they 
were  herded  with  his  domestic  cattle  for  two  years,  he  in- 
formed me  that  they  never  crossed. 


WONDERFUL  SAGACITY. 


347 


THE  BEAYER. 

I know  of  no  animal  concerning  which  the  accounts  of 
travelers  have  been  more  extraordinary,  more  marvelous 
or  contradictory,  than  those  given  of  the  beaver. 

By  some  he  has  been  elevated  in  point  of  intellect  almost 
to  a level  with  man.  He  has  been  said,  for  instance,  to  con- 
struct houses  with  several  floors  and  rooms ; to  plaster  the 
rooms  with  mud  in  such  a manner  as  to  make  smooth  walls, 
and  to  drive  stakes  of  six  or  eight  inches  in  diameter  into 
the  ground,  and  to  perform  many  other  astounding  feats, 
which  I am  induced  to  believe  are 'not  supported  by  credi- 
ble testimony. 

Laying  aside  these  questionable  statements,  there  is  quite 
sufficient  in  the  true  natural  history  of  the  animal  to  excite 
our  wonder  and  admiration. 

On  the  12th  of  June,  1852, 1 encamped  upon  a small 
tributary  of  the  North  Fork  of  Red  River,  near  where  a 
community  of  beavers  had  just  completed  the  construction 
of  a new  dam. 

Upon  an  examination  of  their  works,  we  were  both  as- 
tonished and  delighted  at  the  wonderful  sagacity,  skill,  and 
perseverance  which  they  displayed. 

In  the  selection  of  a suitable  site,  and  in  the  erection  of 
the  structure,  they  appeared  to  have  been  guided  by  some- 
thing more  than  mere  animal  instinct,  and  exhibited  as  cor- 
rect a knowledge  of  hydrostatics,  and  the  action  of  forces 
resulting  from  currents  of  water,  as  the  most  scientific  mill- 
wright would  have  done. 

Having  chosen  a spot  where  the  creek  was  narrow,  and 
the  banks  on  each  side  sufficiently  high  to  raise  a head  of 
about  five  feet,  they  selected  two  cottonwood-trees  some 
fifteen  inches  in  diameter,  situated  above  this  point,  and 
having  an  inclination  toward  the  stream;  these  they  cut 


348 


BEAVER  DAM. 


down  with  their  teeth  (as  the  marks  upon  the  stumps  plain- 
ly showed),  and,  floating  them  down  to  the  position  for  the 
dam,  they  were  placed  across  the  stream  with  an  inclination 
downward,  the  butt  ends  uniting  in  the  centre.  These  con- 
stituted the  foundation  upon  which  the  superstructure  of 
brush  and  earth  was  placed,  in  precisely  the  same  manner 
as  a brush  dam  is  built  by  our  millwrights,  with  the  bushes 
and  earth  alternating  and  packed  closely,  the  butts  in  all 
cases  turned  down  the  stream. 

After  this  was  raised  to  a sufficient  height,  the  top  was 
covered  with  earth  except  in  the  centre,  where  there  was 
a sluice  or  waste- wier  to  let  off  the  superfluous  water  when 
the  creek  rose  so  high  as  to  endanger  the  structure.  In 
examining  the  results  of  the  operations  of  these  ingenious 
quadrupeds,  it  occurred  to  me  that  the  plan  of  constructing 
our  brush  dams  may  have  been  originally  suggested  by 
witnessing  those  made  by  the  beavers,  as  they  are  so  very 
much  alike. 

I observed  at  one  place  above  the  pond  where  they  had 
commenced  another  dam,  and  had  progressed  so  far  as  to 
cut  down  two  trees  on  opposite  sides  of  the  creek ; but  as 
they  did  not  fall  in  the  right  direction  to  suit  their  pur- 
poses, the  work  was  abandoned. 

During  the  month  of  April,  1858, 1 found  upon  one  of  the 
head  branches  of  the  South  Platte  River,  in  the  mountains 
near  Pike’s  Peak,  a place  where  the  beavers  had  dammed 
the  creek  for  three  miles  in  such  a manner  as  to  form  a 
continuous  succession  of  ponds  or  slack-water  for  the  entire 
distance.  There  were  a large  number  of  dams,  and  all  in 
good  repair,  which,  with  the  stumps  of  the  freshly -cut  wil- 
lows, showed  conclusively  that  there  were  an  immense 
number  of  the  animals  there ; yet,  although  we  were  upon 
the  creek  for  several  hours,  we  did  not  see  one  of  them. 
They  are  exceedingly  timid  and  shy,  and  at  the  slightest 


PET  BEAVER. 


349 


noise  take  alarm  and  hide  themselves  in  their  houses,  the 
entrance  to  which  are  hidden  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
water. 

The  only  way  they  can  be  seen  is  to  lay  concealed  and 
quiet  near  their  dams  about  sunset,  when  they  will  come 
out  to  work  or  play,  and  in  this  manner  they  are  often 
killed  by  the  hunters. 

A friend  of  mine  related  to  me  an  amusing  incident  con- 
nected with  a pet  beaver  which  he  had  caught  when  he 
was  quite  young,  and  raised. 

He  was  in  the  habit  of  leaving  him  in  his  cabin,  with  the 
door  fastened,  while  he  visited  his  traps. 

Upon  one  of  these  occasions,  he  found  on  his  return  that 
the  beaver  had  accidentally  upset  the  water-bucket,  and, 
seeing  the  stream  running  down  the  floor,  he  had  attempted 
to  make  a dam  to  stop  it.  All  the  tables,  benches,  blank- 
ets, skins,  and  every  thing  else  movable  in  the  cabin  had 
been  piled  across  the  floor  in  the  vain  effort  of  the  animal 
to  prevent  the  escape  of  his  favorite  element. 

PRAIRIE  DOG. 

This  interesting  and  gregarious  little  specimen  of  the 
mammalia  of  our  country  is  indigenous  to  the  most  of  our 
far  Western  prairies,  from  Mexico  to  the  northern  limits  of 
our  possessions,  and  has  often  been  described  by  those  who 
have  traveled  on  the  Plains ; but  as  there  are  some  facts 
in  relation  to  their  habits  that  I have  never  seen  mentioned 
in  any  published  account  of  them,  I trust  I shall  be  pardon- 
ed if  I add  a few  remarks  to  what  has  already  been  said. 

In  the  selection  of  a site  or  position  for  their  towns,  they 
appear  to  have  special  reference  to  their  food,  which  is  a 
species  of  short,  wiry  grass,  and  a variety  of  cactus  growing 
upon  the  Plains,  where  there  is  often  no  water  near;  in- 
deed, I have  sometimes  seen  their  towns  upon  the  elevated 

2 G 


350 


HIBERNATING. 


table-lands  of  New  Mexico,  where  there  was  no  water  upon 
the  surface  of  the  ground  within  twenty  miles,  and  where 
it  could  not  probably  have  been  found  by  excavating  a 
hundred  feet.  This  fact  has  induced  me  to  believe  that 
they  do  not  require  that  element,  without  which  most  oth- 
er animals  perish  in  a short  time. 

As  there  are  generally  no  rains  or  dews  during  the  sum- 
mer months  where  these  dog  communities  are  found,  and 
as  the  animals  never  wander  far  from  home,  I think  I am 
warranted  in  coming  to  the  conclusion  that  they  require  no 
water  beyond  what  the  grass  affords.  That  they  hiber- 
nate, passing  the  winter  in  a lethargic  or  torpid  state,  is  ev- 
ident from  the  fact  that  they  lay  up  no  sustenance  for  the 
winter,  and  that  the  grass  in  the  vicinity  of  their  burrows 
dries  up  in  the  autumn  ; the  earth  freezes  hard,  and  renders 
it  utterly  impossible  for  them  to  procure  food  in  the  usual 
manner. 

When  the  prairie  dog  first  feels  the  approach  of  the 
sleeping  season  (generally  about  the  last  days  of  October), 
he  closes  all  the  passages  to  his  dormitory,  to  exclude  the 
cold  air,  and  betakes  himself  to  his  brumal  slumber  with 
the  greatest  possible  regularity  and  care._  He  remains 
housed  until  the  warm  days  of  spring,  when  he  removes 
the  obstructions  from  his  door,  and  again  appears  above 
ground  as  lively  and  frolicsome  as  ever.  I have  been  in- 
formed by  the  Indians  that  a short  time  before  a cold 
storm  in  the  autumn  all  the  prairie  dogs  may  be  seen  in- 
dustriously occupied  with  weeds  and  earth  closing  the  en- 
trances to  their  burrows.  They  are  sometimes,  however, 
observed  reopening  them  while  the  weather  is  still  cold  and 
stormy,  but  mild  and  pleasant  weather  is  always  certain  to 
follow.  It  appears,  therefore,  that  instinct  teaches  the  little 
quadruped  when  to  expect  good  or  bad  weather,  and  to 
make  his  arrangements  accordingly. 


LARGE  TOWN. 


351 


In  passing  through  their  villages  the  traveler  is  often 
obliged  to  turn  out  of  his  course  to  avoid  the  mounds  of 
earth  thrown  up  around  their  holes.  The  animals  are  seen 
in  countless  numbers  sitting  upright  at  the  mouths  of  their 
domicils,  and  presenting  in  the  distance  very  much  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  stumps  of  small  trees ; and  so  incessant  is 
the  clatter  of  their  barking,  that  it  requires  but  little  effort 
of  the  imagination  to  fancy  one’s  self  surrounded  by  the 
busy  hum  of  a city. 

The  immense  numbers  of  these  animals  in  some  of  these 
towns  or  warrens  may  be  conjectured  from  the  large  area 
which  they  cover. 

One  near  the  head  of  Red  River  which  we  passed  was 
about  thirty  miles  long.  Supposing  its  dimensions  in  other 
directions  to  have  been  the  same,  it  would  have  embraced 
a space  of  six  hundred  and  twenty -five  square  miles,  or 
eight  hundred  and  ninety-six  thousand  acres.  Estimating 
the  burrows  to  have  been  twenty  yards  apart,  and  each 
family  containing  four  or  five  dogs,  the  aggregate  popula- 
tion would  have  excelled  in  numbers  any  city  of  the  uni- 
verse. 

A species  of  small  owl,  about  the  size  of  a quail,  is  fre- 
quently found  in  the  mouths  of  the  burrows  occupied  by 
the  dogs,  whether  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  food,  or  for 
some  other  object,  I do  not  know.  They  do  not,  however, 
as  some  have  asserted,  burrow  with  the  dogs  ; and  when  ap- 
proached, instead  of  entering  the  holes,  they  invariably  fly 
away. 

It  has  also  been  said  that  the  rattlesnake  is  a constant 
companion  of  the  prairie  dog;  but  this  is  a mistake,  for  I 
have  sometimes  passed  for  days  through  their  towns  with- 
out seeing  one.  They  are,  however,  often  met  with  in  the 
burrows  with  the  dogs,  and  for  this  reason  it  has  been  sup- 
posed by  some  that  they  were  welcome  guests  with  the  pro- 


352 


HINTS  TO  SPORTSMEN. 


prietors  of  the  establishments;  but  we  have  satisfied  our- 
selves that  this  is  a domestic  arrangement  entirely  at  vari- 
ance with  the  wishes  of  the  dogs,  as  the  snakes  prey  upon 
them,  and  consequently  must  be  considered  as  intruders. 
One  snake  which  we  killed  was  found  to  have  swallowed  a 
full-grown  dog. 

When  the  prairie  dog  is  full  grown  he  is  of  a light  brown 
color,  about  the  size  of  a gray  rabbit,  with  a bushy  tail 
some  four  inches  long,  and  shaped  very  much  like  a young 
bull  pup. 


HINTS  TO  SPORTSMEN. 

To  those  persons  who  are  desirous  of  participating  in  the 
exciting  amusement  of  a buffalo  chase,  and  doubtless  there 
are  many  such,  a few  words  in  regard  to  the  most  comfort- 
able and  expeditious  routes  for  reaching  the  localities  where 
the  animals  can  with  certainty  be  met  with  will  not  be 
amiss  in  this  connection.  I have  known  several  English 
sportsmen  who  crossed  the  Atlantic  for  no  other  purpose 
but  that  of  enjoying  the  pleasures  of  a buffalo  hunt,  who, 
on  their  arrival,  seemed  to  be  impressed  with  the  idea  that 
the  best,  if  not,  indeed,  the  only  route, to  the  hunting- 
grounds  was  by  St.  Paul,  and  thence  to  the  Red  River  of 
the  North.  This  is  a very  erroneous  notion,  as  it  is  seldom 
that  buffalo  are  found  within  four  or  five  hundred  miles  of 
St.  Paul ; besides,  in  the  section  of  country  west  of  Red 
River,  the  ranges  of  the  buffalo  are  so  variable  and  uncer- 
tain that  it  is  seldom  they  can  be  found  two  consecutive 
seasons  in  the  same  eastern  localities,  the  courses  taken  by 
the  herds  from  year  to  year  depending  in  a great  measure 
on  the  way  they  are  driven  by  the  Indians,  and  upon  other 
circumstances  contingent  upon  grass,  water,  etc.,  which  are 
without  the  scope  of  anticipation  or  previous  calculation. 
This,  however,  is  not  the  case  in  the  direction  of  New  Mex- 


STARTING-POINT. 


353 


ico  and  Colorado,  where  the  ranges  are  more  uniform  and 
reliable. 

A party  leaving  New  York  City  can  by  rail  reach  the 
Missouri  River  at  St.  Joseph  or  Atcheson  in  less  than  three 
days,  and  from  thence  the  overland  stages  will,  in  three  or 
four  days  more,  carry  them  with  absolute  certainty  near 
the  buffalo  on  either  the  Fort  Kearney  or  Fort  Riley  routes. 
At  these  forts  the  most  accessible  hunting  localities  can  be 
ascertained,  and  some  of  the  officers,  or  other  persons  who 
are  acquainted  with  the  country,  will  generally  be  found 
ready  to  join  the  hunt. 

Should  the  aspirations  of  any  of  our  Eastern  sportsmen 
induce  them  to  venture  an  encounter  with  the  grizzly  bear, 
they  will,  unless  they  go  to  the  Pacific  or  ascend  the  Mis- 
souri River  very  high,  be  obliged  to  travel  a long  distance 
over  the  Plains  in  order  to  accomplish  the  object.  In  1858 
these  animals  were  abundant  about  the  head  waters  of  the 
Arkansas  and  Platte  Rivers,  and  they  were  often  seen  in 
the  vicinity  of  Pike’s  Peak  and  the  present  site  of  Denver 
City ; but  as  that  country  has  been  so  much  frequented  and 
settled  since  I visited  it,  I doubt  if  many  are  left  there  at 
the  present  time.  The  Black  Hills,  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Fort  Laramie,  I should  regard  as  the  most  likely  place  for 
finding  the  animal  now. 

From  the  Missouri  River  at  Atcheson  or  Leavenworth  to 
Fort  Laramie  is  about  seven  hundred  miles,  but  the  road  is 
excellent,  and  the  grass,  wood,  and  water  are  abundant  upon 
the  entire  route.  While  the  Indians  remain  hostile  it  would 
not,  of  course,  be  safe  for  a small  party  to  venture  into  that 
section  for  pleasure ; but,  after  the  Indian  difficulties  are 
terminated,  I know  of  no  summer  excursion  that  would  be 
more  delightful  or  conducive  to  health  than  for  a party  of 
gentlemen,  who  are  fond  of  shooting  and  excitement,  to 
start  out  from  the  Missouri  River  with  their  ovfn  transpor- 

2 G* 


354 


HEALTH  ON  THE  PRAIRIES. 


tation  and  camping  arrangements,  passing  through  the  buf- 
falo range  south  of  Fort  Kearney,  and  along  the  North 
Platte  River  to  the  Black  Hills,  thence  turning  south, 
skirting  the  eastern  base  ot  the  mountains,  crossing  the 
head  waters  of  the  Laramie  and  other  branches  of  the 
Platte  Kiver,  and  through  the  Parks  to  Denver  City;  re- 
turning home  by  the  Arkansas  or  the  Kepublican  Fork  of 
the  Kansas,  upon  either  of  which  routes  buffalo  are  always 
found.  Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  pure,  elastic,  and 
invigorating  than  the  summer  atmosphere  in  the  country 
that  would  be  traversed  in  this  way.  The  climate  of  the 
plains  and  the  mountains  is  of  so  salubrious  a character, 
that  invalids,  whose  healths  have  been  seriously  impaired 
by  sedentary  occupations  in  the  damp,  changeable,  and  foul 
atmosphere  of  our  crowded  cities,  often  derive  great  benefit 
from  it,  and  are  rapidly  restored  to  perfect  health.  Several 
cases  of  this  character  have  come  under  my  own  observa- 
tion, one  of  which  was  a gentleman  of  New  York  City,  who 
had  for  several  years  been  suffering  from  a complication 
of  complaints  that  kept  him  almost  continually  in  the  hands 
of  the  physicians,  without  any  apparent  prospect  of  restora- 
tion to  health.  He  accompanied  me  for  four  months  upon 
the  Plains,  and  returned  home  entirely  free  from  disease, 
and  has  been  hale,  hearty,  and  robust  ever  since.  He  has 
“thrown  physic  to  the  dogs,”  and  the  doctors  have  lost  one 
of  their  very  best  patrons. 

Besides  the  grizzly  bears  that  would  be  found  upon  the 
route  I have  indicated,  elk,  black-tailed  deer,  antelope,  and 
occasionally  mountain  sheep  will  be  met  with  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  mountains. 

The  most  favorable  season  of  the  year  for  leaving  the 
Missouri  River  is  about  the  middle  of  May.  The  grass 
then  affords  good  pasturage  for  animals,  the  roads,  are  dry 
and  firm,  atid  the  temperature  is  mild  and  agreeable. 


OUTFIT. 


355 

An  outfit  of  wagons,  teams,  and  other  requisites  for  the 
expedition  can  be  procured  at  reasonable  rates  at  St.  Jo- 
seph, Atcheson,  Leavenworth  City,  and  at  other  points  of 
departure  on  the  Missouri  River.  A guide  who  knows 
the  country  is  indispensable,  especially  after  reaching  the 
mountains,  and  one  such  can  generally  be  found  at  the 
places  mentioned. 


356 


PIONEERS  OP  THE  WEST. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PIONEERS  OF  THE  WEST. 

Pioneers  of  the  West. — Frontier  Settlers. — Night  at  a Log  Cabin. — Effects 
of  drinking  Mint  Juleps. — A young  Cadet’s  Arrival  at  West  Point. — Prai- 
rie Belle. — Tdxas  Surveyor. — Dinner  in  Arkansas. — Night  in  Arkansas. 
— New  Use  of  Tea. — Yankee  Curiosity  illustrated. — Propensity  for  roam- 
ing.— Meeting  a Fellow-statesman  in  Mexico. — An  old  Acquaintance. — 
Southern  Curiosity. — Virginia  Hospitality. — Perversion  of  the  English 
Language. — Arrival  in  the  Settlements  in  1849. — A Texas  Clergyman’s 
Experience. — Frontier  Settlers  of  Texas. — Major  Neighbors’s  Experience. 
— The  Six-man  Team. — Texas  Volunteers. — Recuperative  Character  of 
the  Frontiersman  illustrated. 

The  object  I have  in  view  in  the  following  pages  is  to 
contribute  something,  in  as  attractive  and  reliable  a form  as 
I am  able,  to  perpetuate  the  true  characteristics  of  the  fron- 
tiersman, the  greater  part  of  which  I have  obtained  from 
long  personal  intercourse  and  observation.  My  sketches 
may  perhaps  be  regarded  as  crude  and  unfinished,  but,  so 
far  as  they  extend,  they  may  be  relied  on  as  faithful  repre- 
sentations of  real  existing  specimens,  and  without  any  col- 
oring of  romance. 

It  may  be  thought  by  some  that  I am  endowed 'with  a 
more  vivid  conception  of  the  ludicrous  and  mirthfuf  than 
is  desirable  in  the  character  of  a historian  or  a biographer ; 
indeed,  I am  rather  inclined  to  this  opinion  myself.  The 
farcical  always  possessed  far  greater  attractions  for  me  than 
the  tragic ; in  fact,  I may  say  that  tragedy  is  my  abhor- 
rence. I seldom  read  the  newspaper  accounts  of  horrible 
murders ; and  when  I visit  a theatre,  it  is  not  for  the  pur- 
pose of  getting  my  feelings  wrought  up  to  the  crying  pitch, 


\ 


FRONTIER  SETTLERS.  357 

but  I go  there  for  the  express  object  of  indulging  in  a good 
hearty  laugh.  The  ordinary  every-day  affairs  of  life  have 
enough  commingling  of  tragedy  to  answer  my  aspirations, 
without  the  necessity  of  paying  for  a box  in  which  to  un- 
dergo three  hours’  agony  and  torture  from  listening  to  a 
mock  representation  of  it.  Let  it  not,  therefore,  surprise 
the  reader  if  he  should  find  that  in  the  following  illustra- 
tions I have  drawn  largely  from  the  comic  elements  in  the 
characters  of  the  classes  represented. 

FRONTIER  SETTLERS. 

The  ideas,  habits,  and  language  of  the  population  upon 
the  borders  of  Arkansas  and  Texas  are  eminently  peculiar, 
and  very  different  from  those  of  any  other  people  I have 
ever  before  met  with  in  my  travels ; they  seem  to  consti- 
tute an  anomalous  and  detached  element  in  our  social 
structure.  Their  sparsely  scattered  forest  habitations,  be- 
ing far  removed  from  towns  or  villages,  and  seldom  visit- 
ed by  travelers,  almost  entirely  exclude  them  from  inter- 
course with  the  civilized  world,  and  they  are  nearly  as  ig- 
norant of  what  is  transpiring  outside  their  own  immediate 
sphere  as  the  savages  themselves.  They  seldom  or  never 
see  a newspaper,  and  could  not  read  it  if  they  did ; and  I 
honestly  believe  that  many  of  them  could  not  tell  whether 
General  Jackson,  Mr.  Lincoln,  or  Mr.  Johnson  is  President 
of  the  United  States  at  the  present  time. 

Some  of  the  most  salient  traits  in  the  character  of  this 
singular  type  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  have  been  exhibited 
in  a conspicuous  light  among  the  specimens  I have  encoun- 
tered upon  the  frontier,  and  I now  propose  to  introduce 
some  of  them  to  the  notice  of  the  reader. 

I remember,  upon  one  occasion,  after  riding  all  day 
through  a dense  forest  region  in  Northwestern  Texas,  in 
the  winter  of  1850-1,  without  the  slightest  indication  of  a 


358 


A TEXAN  HOSTESS. 


road  or  even  trail  to  guide  me,  and  during  a severe  storm 
of  snow  and  rain,  and  without  having  met  with  a single  hu- 
man being  during  the  entire  day,  that  I suddenly  came  out 
into  a small  clearing,  in  the  centre  of  which  was  a very  di- 
minutive log  cabin,  from  whence  arose  a cheerful  smoke,  in- 
dicating the  presence  of  occupants.  This  was  a very  pleas- 
ant surprise  to  me,  as  I had  confidently  calculated  on  being 
obliged  to  bivouac  for  the  night  alone  in  the  woods,  and 
this,  during  such  a cold  storm,  would  have  been  any  thing 
but  agreeable.  I therefore  gladly  turned  my  jaded  horse 
toward  the  hut,  and,  on  my  approach,  a woman,  some  half 
a dozen  children,  and  about  as  many  dogs  emerged  there- 
from. 

After  passing  the  customary  salutations  of  the  country, 
and  exchanging  particular  inquiries  as  to  the  past  and  pres- 
ent condition  of  each  other’s  health,  I begged  to  inquire  if 
I could  be  accommodated  with  lodgings  for  the  night,  to 
which  the  woman  very  obligingly  replied,  “Wall,  now, 
stranger,  my  ole  man  he  ar  out  on  a bar  track,  but  I sort-o- 
reckon  maybe  you  mought  git  to  stay she,  however,  for 
my  consideration,  added  “that  thar  war  narry  show  of 
vittles  in  the  house  barrin  some  sweet  taters  and  a small 
chance  of  corn.”  As  I was  very  hungry,  and  did  not  feel 
disposed  to  put  up  with  such  meagre  fare,  I dismounted, 
tied  my  horse,  took  my  rifle,  and  went  out  into  the  woods 
in  quest  of  something  more  substantial  for  supper,  and  for- 
tunately had  not  gone  far  before  I succeeded  in  killing  a 
deer,  which  I packed  to  the  house,  and,  by  the  aid  of  my 
“ couteau  de  chasse soon  had  nicely  dressed.  My  hostess  and 
the  children  seemed  highly  delighted  at  my  success,  as  they 
had  seen  no  meat  for  several  days,  and  the  old  lady  com- 
plimented me  by  asking  “ what  my  name  mought  be 
and  upon  my  informing  her  that  it  was  Marcy,  she  said 
“ she  knowd  a heap*  o’  Massys  down  in  ole  Massasip ,”  and 


NARROW  QUARTERS. 


359 


that  “me  an  him  (Davy,  her  husband)  allers  ’lowed  that 
them  thar  Massys  was  considdible  on  bar  and  other  var- 
mints.” She  then  told  me,  if  I would  grind  some  corn  in  a 
coffee-mill  which  was  fastened  against  the  corner  of  the 
house,  that  she  would  bake  a poen  for  me.  Accordingly,  I 
set  to  work,  and,  after  about  half  an  hour’s  steady  applica- 
tion, succeeded  in  producing  from  the  rickety  old  machine 
about  a quart  of  meal,  which  was  speedily  converted  into 
a cake.  This,  with  some  of  the  ribs  of  the  fat  venison  well 
roasted,  and  a cup  of  good  coffee  produced  from  my  saddle- 
bags, made  a most  substantial  and  excellent  supper.  After 
this  was  over  I lighted  my  pipe,  and,  seating  myself  before 
the  cheerful  log  fire,  for  the  first  time  since  my  arrival  took 
a survey  of  the  establishment. 

It  consisted  of  one  room  about  fourteen  feet  square,  with 
the  intervals  between  the  logs  not  chinked , and  wide  enough 
in  places  to  allow  the  dogs  to  pass  in  and  out  at  their  pleas- 
ure. There  was  an  opening  for  the  door,  which  was  closed 
with  a greasy  old  beef’s  hide,  but  there  were  no  windows, 
and  no  floor  excepting  the  native  earth.  The  household 
furniture  consisted  of  two  small  benches  of  the  most  primi- 
tive construction  imaginable,  and  two  bedsteads,  each  made 
by  driving  four  forked  stakes  into  the  ground,  across  which 
poles  were  placed,  and  then  covered  transversely  by  flour- 
barrel  staves,  the  whole  structure  surmounted  by  a sack  of 
prairie  hay,  upon  which  I observed  the  remains  of  an 
antiquated  coverlid  that  had  evidently  seen  much  service. 
The  table  furniture  consisted  of  one  tin  milk-pan,  three  tin 
cups,  two  knives  and  three  forks,  two  of  the  latter  having 
but  one  prong  each.  The  tout  ensemble  gave  every  indica- 
tion of  the  most  abject  destitution  and  poverty ; indeed,  the 
hostess  informed  me  that  she  had  not,  previous  to  my  ar- 
rival, tasted  sugar,  tea,  or  coffee  for  three  months ; yet,  as 
strange  as  it  may  appear,  she  seemed  entirely  contented 


360 


BED  AND  BOARD. 


with  her  situation,  and  considered  herself  about  as  well  to 
do  in  the  world  as  the  most  of  her  neighbors.  She  had 
emigrated  to  this  remote  and  solitary  spot  from  Mississippi 
about  two  years  previously,  and  not  the  slightest  trace  of  a 
road  or  trail  had  since  been  made  leading  to  the  locality 
from  any  direction,  and  she  informed  me  that  her  nearest 
neighbor  was  some  fifteen  miles  distant. 

Upon  her  remarking  that  her  husband  was  occasionally 
absent  for  several  days  at  a time,  I inquired  if  she  was  not 
afraid  to  stay  alone  in  this  wild,  out-of-the-way  place.  She 
said  “No;  that  when  Davy  was  away  the  dogs  kept  the 
varmints  off,  and  that  mighty  few  humans  ever  corn’d  that- 
a-way.” 

After  finishing  my  pipe,  and  getting  my  clothes  well 
dried,  and  feeling  quite  fatigued  and  sleepy,  I asked  the 
woman  where  I should  sleep.  She  replied,  “ Stranger,  you 
take  that  thar  bed  with  the  boys,  and  I’ll  take  this  yere 
with  the  gals.” 

Now  the  width  of  the  bed  indicated  for  my  use  was 
measured  with  a flour-barrel  stave,  and  was  already  occu- 
pied by  three  boys,  two  on  the  back  side  and  one  at  the 
foot.  It  therefore  became  a question  of  some  considerable 
interest  to  me  as  to  how  I should  manage  to  stow  myself 
away  in  such  contracted  quarters,  especially  in  view  of  the 
fact  that  my  longitudinal  meridian  was  some  twelve  inches 
greater  than  the  space  allotted  me.  Nevertheless,  as  I was 
not  very  exclusive  or  particular  in  my  notions,  I turned  in, 
and  for  some  time  tried  to  sleep,  but  my  position  between 
the  three  bedfellows  was  so  much  cramped  and  distorted 
that  I found  it  impossible  to  get  any  repose.  I did  not, 
however,  like  the  idea  of  disturbing  the  boys,  but  the  case 
seemed  to  me  a desperate  one : I must  have  some  sleep,  and 
the  only  alternative,- under  the  circumstances,  was  to  make 
the  effort  to  secure  a greater  area ; I therefore  very  quietly 


WRITING  A LETTER. 


361 


administered  a pinch  upon  my  nearest  juvenile  neighbor, 
who  was  sound  asleep,  which  caused  him  to  scream  most 
lustily.  His  mother,  probably  thinking  that  he  was  dream- 
ing, or  suddenly  taken  with  the  nightmare,  called  out  from 
the  other  bed,  “Now,  Dave,  ef  yer  don’t  get  shut  o’  that  thar 
yellin,  yer’l  wake  up  the  stranger.”  This  admonition  qui- 
eted him  for  a while,  but  as  soon  as  he  was  asleep  again  I 
gave  him  another  sharp  pinch,  which  made  him  cry  out 
more  vociferously  than  before,  while  at  the  same  time  I 
was  exerting  my  utmost ‘efforts  in  giving  a good  imitation 
of  the  loftiest  pitch  of  snoring.  The  mother  then  got  up, 
came  to  our  bed,  and  shaking  the  boy,  told  him  “ef  he 
didn’t  dry  up  that  hollerin  she  woodn’t  ’low  him  to  sleep 
’long  with  the  stranger  no  more,  no  how.”  Another  well- 
timed  and  vigorous  pinch,  as  soon  as  he  had  fallen  asleep 
the  third  time,  accomplished  my  object.  He  was  taken  up ; 
but,  as  his  mother  was  lifting  the  pugnacious  young  gentle- 
man out  of  the  bed,  he  had  become  so  fully  sensible  of 
what  was  passing  that  he  began  to  suspect  I had  something 
to  do  with  his  disturbance,  and  hit  me  quite  a severe  blow 
in  the  side  with  his  hard  little  fist.  I,  however,  after  this 
episode,  slept  soundly  till  morning. 

Before  I left  the  house  my  hostess  inquired  of  me  if  I 
knew  how  to  write ; and,  upon  learning  that  my  education 
had  extended  that  far,  she  desired  me  to  act  as  her  amanu- 
ensis, while  she  dictated  a letter  to  a friend  “ way  down  in 
ole  Massasip.”  Having  a pencil  and  some  old  letters  in  my 
pocket,  I told  her  I would  take  down  what  she  desired  to 
communicate,  copy  it  in  ink  on  my  return  to  the  fort,  and 
send  it  for  her  through  the  post,  which  seemed  to  give  her 
great  pleasure ; whereupon  I seated  myself,  and  asked  her 
what  she  wished  me  to  write.  She  said : 

“ Tell  uni,  stranger,  thar’s  narry  fever-n’agur  down  this- 
a-way.” 


362 


TAKING  A CHAR. 


“Very  well,”  I said,  “that  is  down;  what  shall  I say 
next?” 

“ Tell  um,  stranger,  Davy  he  raised  a powerful  heap  o’ 
corn  and  taters  this  year.” 

“Yes,”  I said;  “what  next?” 

“ Tell  um,  stranger,  thar’s  a mighty  smart  chance  o’  var- 
mints in  these  yere  diggins.” 

And  thus  she  went  on  throughout  the  entire  letter,  which 
she  “ ’lowed  was  a peart  hand  write.”  I transcribed  it  lit- 
erally in  her  own  words  on  my  return  home,  and  forward- 
ed it  to  its  destination  in  Mississippi,  and  I sincerely  hope 
the  good  woman  has  received  an  answer  ere  4his. 

While  marching  a battalion  of  my  regiment  from  Little 
Rock  to  Fort  Towson  during  a very  warm  day  in  the  au- 
tumn of  1848, 1 made  a halt  at  a respectable-looking  farm- 
house near  the  Choctaw  line  in  Arkansas,  and,  seeing  a 
woman  sitting  out  upon  the  portico,  I rode  up  for  the  pur- 
pose of  making  some  inquiries  regarding  the  roads.  She 
returned  my  salutation,  and  very  politely  invited  me  to 
“’light  and  have  a char.”  I dismounted,  took  the  chair, 
and  complimented  the  good  woman  upon  the  neat  and  com- 
fortable appearance  of  her  surroundings.  She  said  “ it  was 
tollible  far,  considerin  they  had  corn’d  thar  and  commenced 
deadnin  the  trees  and  maulin  the  rails  only  five  years 
afore.”  I should  have  imagined,  however,  from  the  very 
limited  extent  of  her  knowledge  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, that  she  had  but  just  arrived,  or  that  she  had  been  hi- 
bernating during  the  five  years  mentioned.  As  our  road 
forked  near  the  house,  I asked  her  which  of  the  two  would 
lead  us  to  a small  town  on  our  route  about  ten  miles  dis- 
tant. She  replied  That  “she  didn’t  adzactly  mind,  but  she 
sort’r  reckon’d  her  nigger  gal  mought  tell  me ;”  where- 
upon she  called  out  in  a loud,  shrill  voice,  “ O-o-o-oh  Gre- 
rushe !”  but,  as  the  servant  did  not  respond,.  she  said, 


AN  OLD  GAL. 


363 


✓ 


“ Whar  is  that  nigger  ?”  and  again  cried  out,  in  a still  loud- 
er and  more  prolonged  tone  of  voice,  “ 0 — o — o — o — o — oh 
Gerushe ! ! !”  but  the  strength  of  her  lungs  seemed  to  have 
been  so  nearly  expended  in  the  effort  of  giving  proper  em- 
phasis to  the  letter  0,  that  the  name  of  the  servant  was 
called  in  a quick,  faint,  and  barely  audible  voice.  The  last 
call  had  the  desired  effect,  and  soon  a venerable  negress,  at 
least  seventy  years  old,  and  who  struck  me  as  being  pretty 
well  advanced  for  a “gal,”  approached,  and,  after  dropping 
a polite  courtesy  to  me,  asked  what  she  could  do  for  “mis- 
sus.” The  latter,  in  a sharp,  petulant,  but  exhausted  tone, 
indicating  that  the  previous  effort  to  rouse  her  sable  domes- 
tic had  been  rather  too  much  for  her, said,  “You  lazy,  no 
’count  nigger,  you  gess  tell  this  yere  stranger  whar  these 
yere  roads  goes  to,  right  quick,  do  ye  hear  ?”  Gerushe  very 
promptly  replied,  “ Wall,  mass’r,  I ’specs  I’ze  guine  to  tell 
you  all  about  it : Mass’r  Jeemes  he  ’lowed  this  yere  left- 
hand  one  he  guine  down  to  Wash-un-tum,  and  that  thar 
t’other  one  he  guine  to  Choctaw  na-shum.”  I then  asked 
the  woman  of  the  house  the  distance  to  the  nearest  post- 
office,  but  of  this  she  had  not  the  remotest  idea,  and  again 
referred  me  to  the  servant,  who  at  once  gave  me  the  in- 
formation. Several  other  inquiries  which  I made  of  the 
mistress  of  the  house  only  served  to  exhibit  her  ignorance 
of  and  indifference  to  every  thing  that  was  transpiring 
around  her.  She  almost  invariably  appealed  for  informa- 
tion to  her  antiquated  African  “gal,”  who  seemed  to  be 
much  better  posted  than  her  mistress ; indeed,  she  appeared 
to  be  her  sense-bearer,  performing  not  only  her  physical 
drudgery,  but  also  her  mental  functions. 

During  the  course  of  our  conversation  the  proprietor  of 
the  establishment,  a stalwart,  leather-stocking  specimen  of 
a backwoodsman,  came  home,  leading  his  horse,  with  a deer 
packed  upon  each  side,  followed  by  several  dogs,  and  carry- 


364 


A SPECIMEN  FRONTIERSMAN. 


ing  a huge  rifle  across  his  shoulder.  I congratulated  him 
upon  his  success  in  hunting,  and  observed  that  the  deer 
must  be  abundant  in  that  neighborhood.  On  the  contrary, 
he  said  they  were  getting  very  scarce ; that  when  he  first 
arrived  in  that  section  “ thar  war  right  smart  o’  deer;  they 
war  numerous  then,”  he  said;  but,  although  he  had  been 
out  in  the  woods  all  the  morning,  he  had  only  killed  three, 
besides  “ bustin’’  two  caps  at  another  which  he  did  not  get. 
He  then  commenced  the  following  dialogue : 

“ Ar  you  gwine  fur  to  jine  ole  Zack  down  in  Mexico  ?” 
“No,  sir,  the  Mexican  war  is  ended,  and  we  are  now  en 
route  for  the  Choctaw  nation.” 

“ Whar  did  ye  come  from,  stranger  ?” 

“We  came  last  from  Pascagoula.” 

“ Mought  you  be  the  boss  hossifer  of  that  thar  army  ?” 
pointing  to  the  men. 

“Iam  the  commanding  officer  of  that  detachment,  sir.” 

“ Wall,  Mr.  Hossifer,  be  them  sure  ’nuff  sogers,  or  is  they 
make  b’lieve  chaps,  like  I seen  down  to  Orleans  ?” 

“They  have  passed  through  the  Mexican  war,  and  I 
trust  they  have  proved  themselves  not  only  worthy  the  ap- 
pellation of  real,  genuine  soldiers,  but  of  veterans,  sir.” 
“Now  I gest  want  to  know  one  thing  more,  boss ; be 
them  chaps  reg-lars,  or  be  they  melish?” 

“I  assure  you  that  they  belong  to  the  regular  army  of 
the  United  States.” 

Then,  pointing  to  my  uniform,  he  added,  “ Apperiently, 
then,  fightin’s  your  trade  ?” 

“I  adopted  the.  profession  of  arms  at  an  early  age,”  I re- 
plied. 

“War  you  at  the  Orleans  fight,  whar  our  boys  gin  sich 
particlar  fits  to  ole  Pack?”  (Packenham  I suppose  he 
meant). 

I answered  that,  though  a pretty  old  soldier,  my  commis- 
sion did  not  date  quite  so  far  back  as  1814. 


A SPECIMEN  FRONTIERSMAN. 


365 


“Wall,  ole  boss,  you  moughtn’t  a been  thar,  but  you 
ain’t  no  chicken  now,  sure.”  He  continued : “ One  time 
me  an  him,  Ike  Thompson,  we  went  on  a sogerin  spree.” 

“Ah!  indeed;  in  what  place  did  you  serve,  pray?” 

“In  severial  places;  but  the  last  pop  we  fout  at  the  bat- 
tle of  the  Hoss-shoe,  whar  we  and  ole  Hickry  cleaned  out 
the  Ingines.” 

“ That  was  a most  decisive  and  sanguinary  battle,”  I ob- 
served. 

“I  calkerlate,  Mr.  Hossifer,  that  war  the  most  c?e-cisivest 
and  the  most  san-^mVi-ariest  fight  you  ever  seen  in  all  yer 
born  days.  We  boys,  we  up  and  pitched  in  thar,  and  .we 
gin  the  yaller-bellies  the  most  parr- ticlar  hail  Columby. 
We  chawed  um  all  up ; we  laid  um  out  cold’r  nur  a wedge ; 
we  saved  every  mother’s  son  of  um — we  did  that  thar  lit- 
tle thing,  boss.” 

I replied  that  I had  no  doubt  very  many  of  the  Indians 
were  killed,  but  that  I had  always  been  under  the  impres- 
sion that  some  of  them  made  their  escape ; and,  in  fact,  I 
was  very  confident  that  several  Creek  Indians  were  then 
living  upon  the  Canadian  River  who  participated  in  the 
battle  of  the  Horse-shoe.  He  said  he  “ rayther  reckon’d 
not;”  but,  at  all  events,  he  was  quite  certain  “ef  any  of 
the  dogond  varmints  did  git  away,  they  war  d — d badly 
wounded,  sartin  sure.” 

He  then  produced  a bottle  of  whisky,  and  gave  me  a 
pressing  invitation  “to  liquor,”  remarking  that  “he  war 
not  too  proud  to  take  a horn  with  a fellur-soger,  even  if  he 
war  a reg-lar.” 

After  having  taken  the  drink,  he  approached  me,  and  in 
a serious  tone  said,  “ Thar’s  narry  paper  tuck  in  this  yere 
settle-men^,  but  I hearn  tell  that  Gin-ral  Jackson  ar  dead ; 
maybe  you  mought  heer’d  some  talk  ’bout  it  as  you  corn’d 
’long  the  road,  stranger  ?” 


2 Ii* 


366 


MINT  JULEPS. 


I answered  that  I had  not  the  slightest  doubt  of  the  fact, 
and  that,  in  my  opinion,  it  was  very  generally  believed 
throughout  the  United  States  that  the  general  had  died  at 
the  Hermitage  as  long  ago  as  1845. 

Quite  an  amusing  incident  was  related  to  me  as  having 
occurred  in  Washington  County,  Arkansas,  during  the  early 
settlement  of  that  section  of  the  state ; and,  although  I can 
not  vouch  for  its  perfect  authenticity,  yet,  as  it  is  eminently 
characteristic  of  the  habits  of  the  people  who  inhabited  that 
country  when  I first  visited  there,  and  as  it  also  illustrates 
a prominent  feature  in  the  customs  of  the  Virginians,  I ven- 
ture to  relate  it,  even  if  not  wholly  new. 

It  appeared  that  a traveler  from  the  Old  Dominion,  while 
en  route  for  Texas,  stopped  at  a house  in  Western  Arkansas 
for  the  purpose  of  feeding  his  horse,  and  obtaining  some 
rest  and  refreshment’ for  himself  after  a hard  ride  in  a hot 
summer’s  day.  On  entering  the  hospitable  farm-house,  he 
was  politely  invited  to  take  a seat,  and  shortly  afterward  a 
jug  of  whisky  was  produced,  and  he  was  solicited  by  the 
proprietor  to  join  him  in  a social  glass.  He  most  cheerful- 
ly complied  with  the  request,  but  found  the  liquor  of  very 
inferior  quality  and  exceedingly  unpalatable.  On  receiv- 
ing an  invitation  to  take  a second  glass,  he  intimated  that 
he  was  very  fond  of  mint  juleps,  and,  if  there  were  no  par- 
ticular objections,  he  would  prefer  to  take  the  next  drink  in 
that  form.  His  host,  it  appeared,  had  never  before  heard 
of  the  mixture,  but  expressed  a perfect  willingness  to  be  in- 
ducted into  the  mystery  of  compounding  it ; whereupon  the 
gentleman  from  the  Old  Dominion  stepped  out  into  the  in- 
closure in  front  of  the  house,  picked  some  fresh  mint  from 
a large  patch  growing  there,  and  with  cold  water  direct  from 
the  spring,  and  some  brown,  sugar,  he  soon  manufactured 
two  juleps,  which,  although  not  quite  equal,  perhaps,  to  those 
that  can  be  obtained  in  sofne  of  the  luxurious  saloons  of  our 


“ THE  OLE  MAN’S  DEAD,  STRANGER.”  367 

large  cities,  yet  were  far  from  being  unpalatable  to  a thirsty 
traveler,  and  certainly  were  a very  great  improvement  upon 
the  “ bald  face ” in  its  crude,  native  state. 

The  Arkansian  pronounced  it  excellent,  and  very  soon 
called  upon  his  guest  to  concoct  another,  which  he  consid- 
ered still  better  than  the  first,  and  before  they  parted  quite 
a number  of  the  fascinating  compounds  had  been  imbibed, 
and  the  host  had  learned  the  secret  of  manufacturing  them. 

The  Virginian  continued  on  his  journey  toward  Texas, 
and  in  due  course  of  time  set  out  to  return.  On  arriving 
at  the  house  before-mentioned,  he  concluded  he  would  call 
and  renew  his  acquaintance  with  his  friendly  old  host. 
Accordingly,  he  rode  up  to  the  gate,  and  seeing  one  of  the 
boys  of  the  family  standing  near,  asked  him,  “ How  is  the 
old  gentleman,  your  father,  my  son  ?” 

The  boy,  with  an  air  of  the  most  perfect  indifference,  re- 
plied, “ Why,  the  ole  man’s  dead,  stranger.” 

“ Is  it  possible  ? How  long  since  ?” 

“ About  two  weeks,  stranger.” 

“ Ah,  indeed ! Pray  what  was  the  matter  with  the  poor 
old  gentleman,  my  son  ?” 

“Waal,  now,  stranger,  I’ll  tell  ye  what  it  war.  Thar 
war  an  old  fellar  from  Virgine,  he  corn’d  along  this  way 
last  summer,  and  he  jist  ups  and  larns  the  ole  man  to  drink 
greens  in  his  licker,  and  you  can  bet  your  life  on’t  it 
knocked  him  higher  nor  a kite !” 

Upon  the  Virginian’s  suggesting  to  the  boy  that  it  might 
have  been  possible  the  bad  quality  of  the  whisky  exercised 
a more  deleterious  influence  upon  his  father’s  health  than 
the  mint,  he  replied, 

“Ho,  stranger,  it  war  not  the  whisky,  for  we’ve  allers 
used  licker  in  our  family,  and  though  it  made  old  mom 
powerful  weak,  yet  it  never  phazed  ole  pop  arry  time — no, 
it  war  the  greens,  as  sure  as  yer  born.” 


368 


FREE  DRINKING. 


As  the  Yirginian  had  not  been  recognized  by  the  young 
man,  and  did  not  feel  disposed  to  incur  the  responsibility 
of  having  recommended  the  introduction  of  such  a fatal  in- 
gredient into  the  family  beverage,  he  went  on  his  way,  if 
not  a better,  certainly  a wiser  man  than  before. 

Among  the  characteristics  of  the  people  of  the  United 
States,  I know  of  no  custom  which  exhibits  a more  marked 
contrast  in  their  habits  and  those  of  their  cousins  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Atlantic  than  that  of  the  interchange  of 
civilities  over  the  social  glass.  Whenever  friends  meet,  in 
this  country,  at  a private  house  or  a hotel,  it  is  seldom  that 
they  separate  without  “ renewing  the  assurances”  of  their 
mutual  esteem  by  taking  a drink  together ; and  if  they  are 
on  the  “ temperance  list,”  they  take  a glass  of  beer,  lemon- 
ade, or  any  thing  else  that  suits  their  inclinations,  but  the 
person  extending  the  invitation  always  expects  to  pay  the 
bill.  This  practice  is  especially  prevalent  in  the  South- 
western States ; and  in  some  places,  if  a man  takes  a drink 
at  the  bar  of  an  inn,  and  does  not  invite  all  those  around  to 
join  him,  even  though  they  may  be  strangers  to  him,  he  is 
looked  upon  with  contempt. 

An  acquaintance  of  mine,  living  in  the  Cherokee  coun- 
try, once  visited  Little  Rock,  and  stopped  at  the  Anthony 
House.  Feeling  fatigued  and  thirsty  after  a hard  ride,  he, 
on  entering  the  hotel,  went  to  the  bar  and  called  for  a glass 
of  liquor,  when,  to  his  astonishment,  he  said,  “Fourteen  men 
who  were  sitting  around  stepped  up  and  ’lowed  they’d  take 
sugar  in  thar’n !”  He  paid  for  the  fifteen  drinks,  as  it  was 
in  strict  conformity  with  the  customs  of  the  country,  but  he 
did  not  visit  the  bar  again. 

As  is  well  understood,  the  corps  of  cadets  of  the  Military 
Academy  at  West  Point  is  composed  of  young  men  who 
are  appointed  from  all  sections  of  the  United  States,  and 
occasionally  may  be  seen  among  them  frontier  youths  who, 


A GREEN  CADET. 


369 


on  their  first  arrival,  have  seen  but  little  of  the  world,  and 
are  exceedingly  primitive  and  unsophisticated. 

I remember  very  well,  while  I was  at  the  institution,  that 
a young  man  from  the  remote  Western  borders,  near  the 
Cherokee  nation,  who  had  never  in  his  life  been  over  a few 
miles  from  home,  received  a letter  of  appointment  to  the 
Military  Academy  through  the  representative  from  his  Con- 
gressional district. 

His  father  furnished  him  with  a horse,  saddle,  and  bridle, 
and  With  his  slender  wardrobe  packed  in  a capacious  pair 
of  saddle-bags,  he  set  out  on  his  long  journey  for  West 
Point.  After  many  days’  hard  riding  (there  were  no  rail- 
roads then)  he  at  length  arrived  in  Jersey  City,  where,  after 
selling  his  horse,  he  took  his  saddle-bags  on  his  arm,  and, 
crossing  the  ferry,  entered  Hew  York,  with  the  intention  of 
“putting  up”  at  the  first  respectable  tavern  he  could  find. 

He  passed  up  Courtlandt  Street  and  Broadway  with  his 
eyes  continually  searching  for  the  sign-post  and  swinging 
sign  which  he  supposed  to  be  the  universal  evidence  of  a 
tavern  throughout  the  civilized  world,  but  his  search  was  in 
vain.  He  found  nothing  but  one  vast  conglomeration  of 
stores,  shops,  and  private  bouses ; not  a single  tavern  did  he 
meet  with.  Finally,  after  becoming  considerably  fatigued 
in  wandering  about  the  streets,  he  discovered  the  sign  of  an 
oyster  saloon,  and-,  as  he  had  never  before  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  testing  the  merits  of  the  bivalves,  he  entered  the 
establishment,  and,  putting  down  his  saddle-bags,  informed 
the  waiter  that  “he  didn’t  mind  if  he  tuck  a few  of  them  ar 
oysters  hisself;”  and  in  answer  to  the  inquiry  of  how  many 
he  desired  to  have,  said  “he  reckon’d  about  half  a peck.” 
They  were  accordingly  set  before  him  raw,  “on  the  half-* 
shell.”  He  did  not  at  all  fancy  their  appearance ; yet,  as 
he  observed  persons  all  around  him  devouring  them  with 
much  apparent  relish,  he  selected  one  of  the  largest,  and, 


370 


ARRIVAL  AT  WEST  POINT. 


after  scrutinizing  it  very  attentively  for  a moment,  put  it  in 
his  mouth ; but  no  sooner  had  it  come  in  contact  with  his 
palate  than  it  was  ejected,  with  intense  disgust,  half  way 
across  the  room;  at  the  same  time  he  called  out  to  the 
waiter,  “ Look  a yere,  mister,  take  off  these  yere  nasty  var- 
mints, and  bring  me  some  bacon  and  eggs.” 

Soon  after  this  he  delivered  a letter  of  introduction,  with 
which  he  had  been  provided,  to  a gentleman  in  the  city, 
who  kindly  showed  him  to  a hotel,  and  assisted  him  in  pur- 
chasing a trunk  and  a suitable  wardrobe;  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  he  took  the  steamer  for  his  destination, 
and,  in  due  course  of  time,  was  landed  upon  the  wharf  at 
West  Point. 

Now  his  letter  of  appointment  required  him  to  report  in 
person  to  the  superintendent,  Colonel  Thayer,  who  was  a 
very  refined,  courteous,  and  dignified  gentleman,  but,  at  the 
same  time,  he  was  exceedingly  rigid  in  enforcing  the  strict- 
est discipline,  and  the  highest  respect  for  rank  and  military 
authority.  My  young  friend,  after  ascertaining  where  the 
colonel’s  quarters  were  situated,  shouldered  his  trunk  (he 
was  then  about  six  feet  high,  and  powerfully  developed), 
and  staggered  under  its  weight  up  the  steep  hill  to  the  su- 
perintendent’s house,  put  down  his  trunk  upon  the  steps, 
and  was  at  once  admitted  into  the  colonel’s  presence. 

Unlike  most  of  the  cadets  on  their  first  introduction  to 
this  dignitary,  he  was  not  in  the  slightest  degree  abashed, 
but  felt  entirely  self-possessed,  and,  taking  a chair  close  to 
the  colonel,  and  looking  him  attentively  in  the  face,  said, 
“ Ole  man,  ar  you  Colonel,  or  Captain,  or  whatever-you- 
call-um  Thayer?”  To  which  the  old  gentleman  very 
gravely  replied,  “ I am  Colonel  Thayer,  sir.”  “ Wall,  now, 
look-a-yere,  Kurn ,”  said  the  youth,  “ this  yere  hill  o’  yourn 
am  a breather;  ef  it  ain’t,  d — n me.” 

The  colonel  soon  comprehended  what  kind  of  a specimen 


A PRAIRIE  BELLE. 


371 


of  humanity  he  had  before  him,  and  directed  his  orderly  to 
show  him  to  the  barracks,  where  he  was  soon  inducted  into 
the  mysteries  of  wholesome  discipline. 

As  it  may  be  a matter  of  curiosity  with  some  to  know 
what  success  this  untutored  youth  of  the  forest  met  with 
in  his  academical  career,  I add,  for  their  information,  that 
he  applied  himself  zealously  to  his  studies,  attained  a good 
standing  in  his  class,  and,  on  graduating,  was  an  accom- 
plished gentleman  and  scholar,  who  reflected  credit  upon 
the  institution,  and  was  afterward  favorably  known  as  the 
author  of  a History  .of  Texas. 

A PRAIRIE  BELLE. 

As  I was  returning  from  the  Plains,  after  having  ex- 
plored the  Brazos  River  to  its  sources  in  1854, 1 met,  near 
the  most  remote  frontier  house,  three  girls,  who  were  ac- 
companied by  a young  man,  who  were  picking  wild  grapes 
beside  the  road.  We  learned  from  them  that  they  lived 
but  a shbrt  distance  in  advance,  and  that  there  was  a very 
fine  spring,  with  good  camping-ground,  near  their  house, 
and  we  resolved  to  halt  there  for  the  night. 

As  we  had  a vacant  seat  in  our  wagon,  and  as  the  party 
were  on  foot,  I inquired  if  one  of  the  young  ladies  would 
not  like  to  ride  with  us  to  the  house.  One  of  them  assent- 
ing, my  companion,  a New  York  gentleman,  very  politely 
extended  his  hand  to  assist  her;  but,  instead  of  accepting 
it,  she  made  a sudden  leap  from  the  ground  over  the  side 
of  the  vehicle,  and  landed  directly  by  his  side.  This  extra- 
ordinary acrobatic  feat  of  agility,  which  would  have  done 
credit  to  the  Ravel  family,  or  any  other  professional  artistes, 
took  us  by  surprise,  and  as  we  proceeded  toward  the  house 
we  entered  into  conversation  with  her,  and  were  greatly 
diverted  by  the  originality  of  her  ideas,  and  the  perfect 
freedom  and  abandon  with  which  she  gave  expression  to 


372 


THE  FRONTIER  STYLE. 


them.  She  appeared  to  be  about  eighteen  years  of  age, 
with  rather  a masculine  physique,  her  figure  tall,  erect,  and 
lithe,  but  well  rounded,  and  exceedingly  graceful  and  femi- 
nine in  outline,  the  incarnation  of  perfect  health  and  vigor. 
Her  face  was  thoroughly  browned  by  exposure  and  exer- 
cise in  the  open  air  (she  had  probably  never  seen  or  heard 
of  such  a hothouse  appendage  as  a sun-shade),  and  was  con- 
stantly lighted  up  with  a cheerful,  happy  expression,  indi- 
cating an  overflowing  exuberance  of  spirits,  which  dissem- 
inated an  atmosphere  around  her,  the  fascination  of  which 
was  irresistible  to  those  who  came  within  its  influence ; 
and  her  laughing,  dancing  blue  eyes  seemed  ever  on  the 
qui  vive  for  fun  and  frolic.  She  wore  a closely  - fitting 
bloomer  costume,  with  a jaunty  little  straw  hat  upon  one 
side  of  her  head,  fastened  under  the  chin  with  a pretty  pink 
ribbon,  and  her  luxurious  natural  hair  curled  in  ringlets  all 
over  her  shoulders. 

• She  was  evidently  the  reigning  belle  of  the  neighbor- 
hood, as  well  as  the  favorite  spoiled  child  of  her*  family ; 
and  she  was  j ust  as  wild,  untamed,  and  free  from  the  ab- 
surd, tyrannical  conventionalities  of  society  as  the  mustangs 
that  roamed  over  the  adjacent  prairies. 

My  companion  related  to  her  some  of  the  most  remark- 
able incidents  of  our  expedition,  which  seemed  to  interest 
her  vastly;  but,  at  the  same  time,  her  credulity  appeared 
to  be  somewhat  taxed,  .and  would  occasionally  find  utter- 
ance in  such  ejaculations  as , “Oh,  git  out!”  11  You  go-long 
now!”  “Look  at  him!”  etc.,  which  seemed  the  spontaneous 
outbursts  of  her  impulsive  nature,  and  rather  in  the  char- 
acter of  a soliloquy  than  seriously  intended  to  express  doubt 
as  to  the  truth  of  the  narrative. 

In  one  instance  she  became  intensely  absorbed  in  my 
friend’s  account  of  a visit  we  received  from  the  Comanches, 
and  some  of  the  peculiar  habits  of  those  people,  and  gave 


AFRAID  OF  WOLVES. 


373 


vent  to  her  feelings  by  administering  a violent  slap  upon 
his  knee,  and  at  the  same  time  exclaiming,  “ The  lie — e — e 
— II  you  say , stranger  /”  giving  particular  emphasis  to  and 
dwelling  upon  the  most  objectionable  word  in  the  sentence. 

She  inquired  very  particularly  about  our  camping  ar- 
rangements, and  manifested  a good  deal  of  curiosity  con- 
cerning the  shape,  capacity,  and  material  of  our  tent.  She 
had  never  seen  one,  it  appeared,  and  I remarked  to  her  that 
after  ours  was  pitched,  if  she  would  honor  us  with  a call, 
she  would  have  a good  opportunity  of  seeing  how  very 
comfortable  we  could  make  ourselves  in  camp.  At  this 
she  turned  around,  facing  me,  applied  her  thumb  to  her 
nose  with  her  fingers  extended,  closed  one  eye,  and,  with 
her  countenance  assuming  a most  ludicrously  severe  ex- 
pression, observed,  “ Pm  afraid  of  wolves,  ole  hoss .” 

As  I was  quite  unconscious  of  having  intended  any  dis- 
respect to  the  young  lady,  I was  a good  deal  surprised  at 
this  exhibition  of  indignation.  What  signification  her  re- 
mark was  intended  to  convey  I have  never  yet  learned  ; I 
certainly  never  for  a /noment  imagined  that  any  resem- 
blance could  be  detected  between  the  carnivorous  quadru- 
ped so  pointedly  alluded  to  and  ourselves,  even  had  we 
been  attired  in  “sheep’s  clothing .”  From  the  savage  ex- 
pression her  countenance  assumed,  however,  I did  not  feel 
inclined  to  press  her  for  an  explanation,  and  changed  the 
subject  as  soon  as  possible. 

While  surveying  Indian  reservations  in  the  wilds  of 
Western  Texas  during  the  summer  of  1854,1  encountered 
a deputy  state  surveyor  traveling  on  foot,  with  his  compass 
and  chain  upon  his  back.  I saluted  him  politely,  remarking 
that  I presumed  he  was  a surveyor,  to  which  he  replied, 
“I  reckon,  stranger,  I ar  that  thar  individoal.” 

I had  taken  the  magnetic  variation  several  times,  always 
with  nearly  the  same  results  (about  10°  20') ; but,  in  order 

2 T 


374 


AN  INVARIABLE  COMPASS. 


to  verify  my  observations,  I was  curious  to  learn  how  they 
accorded  with  his  own  working,  and  accordingly  inquired 
what  he  made  the  variation  of  the  compass  in  that  locality. 
He  seemed  struck  with  astonishment  at  the  question,  took 
the  compass  from  his  back,  laid  it  upon  a log  near  by,  then 
facing  me,  and  pointing  with  his  finger  toward  it,  said, 
“Stranger,  do  yer  see  that  thar  in-stru-raertf?”  to  which  I 
replied  in  the  affirmative.  He  continued : “ I’ve  owned  her 
well-nigh  goin  on  twenty  year.  I’ve  put  her  through  the 
perarries  and  through  the  timber,  and  now  you  look-a-yere, 
stranger,  you  can  jist  bet  yer  life  on’t  she  never  var- ried 
arry  time,  and  ef  you’ll  foller  her  sign  ye’ll  knock  the  cen- 
tre outer  the  north  star ; she  never  lies,  she  don't” 

He  seemed  to  consider  my  interrogatory  as  a direct  in- 
sinuation that  his  compass  was  an  imperfect  one,  and  hence 
his  indignation.  Thinking  I should  not  get  any  important 
information  concerning  the  magnetic  variation  from  this 
surveyor,  I begged  his  pardon  for  questioning  the  accuracy 
of  his  instruraer^,  bade  him  good-morning,  and  continued 
my  journey. 

On  my  return  to  Fort  Smith,  Arkansas,  in  the  autumn 
of  1852,  after  having  explored  the  Red  Eiver  to  its  sources, 
and  upon  the  occasion  when  it  was  very  generally  supposed 
that  our  party  had  all  been  overpowered  and  put  to  death 
by  the  Indians,  I set  out  with  two  gentlemen  of  the  party, 
Captain  McClellan  and  a friend  from  Hew  York,  who  had 
accompanied  us  for  the  benefit  of  his  health,  en  route  for 
Rock  Roe,  the  steam-boat  landing  on  White  River,  a dis- 
tance of  some  two  hundred  miles. 

The  health  of  my  invalid  companion  was  not  yet  suffi- 
ciently restored  to  enable  him  to  digest  the  heavy  balls  that 
were  usually  set  before  travelers  in  that  country  under  the 
name  of  biscuit,  and  he  laid  in  at  Fort  Smith  a good  supply 
of  baker’s  bread  and  tea  for  our  journey. 


NOT  MASSACRED. 


375 


Our  first  halt,  after  we  left  Fort  Smith,  was  at  a planta- 
tion house  some  twenty-five  miles  out.  We  drove  up  to 
the  gate,  and  I entered  the  house,  where  I found  a woman 
lying  upon  a bed,  suffering  from  a severe  attack  of  rheuma- 
tism. I apologized  for  disturbing  her,  and  remarked  that  I 
had  called  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  if  two  companions 
and  myself  could  be  accommodated  with  dinner. 

She  said  her  servants  were  all  out  in  the  field,  and  she 
could  not  at  that  time  think  of  taking  them  from  their 
work.  I then  asked  her  how  long  she  had  been  ill,  and 
whether  she  had  a good  physician  to  attend  her,  etc.  She 
replied  that  the  only  doctor  she  had  confidence  in  was  Dr. 
Shumard,  and,  as  he  had  been  killed  by  the  Indians,  she 
did  not  feel  inclined  to  call  upon  any  other.  Now  Dr. 
Shumard  had  been  the  surgeon  upon  my  recent  expedition, 
and  had  returned  with  me  to  Fort  Smith. 

I inquired  of  the  lady  if  she  was  quite  certain  that  the 
doctor  had  been  massacred  by  the  savages.  She  said  there 
was  not  the  slightest  doubt  upon  the  subject,  as  he  was  with 
Captain  Marcy,  who,  with  every  soul  in  the  party,  were  put 
to  death  by  the  Comanches.  I then  asked  her  if  I could 
prove  to  her  that  Dr.  Shumard  was  alive  and  well,  and  at 
that  very  time  at  his  home  in  Fort  Smith,  whether  she 
would  allow  her  servants  to  come  in  and  get  us  dinner,  to 
which  she  most  willingly  assented ; whereupon,  making  a 
profound  obeisance  to  her,  I said, “ 1 have  the  honor,  mad- 
am, of  presenting  myself  to  you  as  the  identical  Captain 
Marcy  whom  you  suppose  to  have  been  killed  by  the  In- 
dians ; and  I also  have  the  pleasure  to  inform  you  that 
your  physician  returned  with  me  yesterday  to  Fort  Smith, 
and  in  the  best  possible  state  of  health.” 

She  immediately  screamed  out  at  the  top  of  her  voice, 
“You  Jim,  go  out  into  the  field,  and  tell  Sally  to  come 
here  quick,  and  get  these  gentlemen  some  dinner ; do  you 


376 


TOAST  AND  TEA. 


hear?”  Sally  soon  made  her  appearance,  and  in  a short 
time  set  before  us  a very  excellent  repast,  to  which  we  did 
ample  justice,  and,  bidding  our  hostess  good-by,  resumed 
our  journey. 

On  the  second  day  out  from  the  fort  we  halted  for  the 
night  at  a respectable-looking  farm-house,  where  we  were 
informed  we  could  be  accommodated  with  lodgings,  and 
my  New  York  companion  readily  obtained  from  the  host- 
ess a promise  to  make  a nice  dish  of  toast  and  a cup  of  tea 
for  supper. 

In  due  course  of  events  our  supper  was  announced,  and  we 
seated  ourselves  at  the  table,  which,  according  to  the  custom 
of  the  country,  was  spread  under  the  portico  of  the  house. 

The  dishes  before  us  consisted  of  fried  bacon  floating  in 
grease,  some  corn-bread  in  the  shape  of  hand  grenades,  and 
a quantity  of  glutinous,  half-baked  hot  biscuit,  neither  of 
which  seemed  calculated  to  tempt  the  appetite  of  the  gen- 
tleman from  New  York,  who  called  for  the  toast.  The  land- 
lady replied  that  “she  had  it  on  a fryin , and  she  ’lowed  it 
would  soon  be  done.”  Captain  McClellan  and  myself  ex- 
changed significant  glances  at  this  information,  but  my 
friend  from  New  York  did  not  appear  to  appreciate  the 
joke,  and  asked  “what  the  devil  she  meant  by  frying  toast.” 
She  assured  him  it  was  all  right,  as  he  would  soon  see  for 
himself.  When  it  came  on  the  table  it  appeared  that  she 
had  taken  the  loaf,  cut  it  in  two  parts,  placed  them  in  a 
pan,  and  fried  them  in  grease  for  about  half  an  hour.  My 
friend  did  not  seem  to  relish  this  method  of  cooking,  and 
explained  to  the  hostess  in  detail  the  proper  method  of 
making  toast;  whereupon  she  said,  “ Oh,  you  want  burnt 
bread ; I thought  you  wanted  toast.” 

The  woman  evidently  did  not  know  much  more  about 
making  tea  than  she  did  of  the  proper  method  of  preparing 
the  toast. 


A POPULOUS  BED. 


377 


Indeed,  it  is  very  seldom  that  tea  can  be  found  among 
these  people ; and,  although  ‘they  all  make  excellent  cof- 
fee, very  many  of  them  never  drank  a cup  of  tea  in  their 
lives.  A lady  of  my  acquaintance,  in  traveling  from  Fort 
Towson  to  Shreveport  some  twelve  years  since,  knowing 
the  difficulty  of  procuring  her  favorite  beverage  in  that 
section,  had  provided  herself  with  about  a pound  of  choice 
green  tea,  and  at  one  of  her  stopping-places  upon  Red 
River  requested  the  woman  of  the  house  to  make  her  a 
cup  of  it.  When  the  supper  was  announced  my  friend  in- 
quired for  her  tea;  the  woman  said,  “ Wall,  now,  marm,  I 
put  them  dried  greens  o’  yourn  in  the  pot  mor’n  a half 
hour  ago,  and  they’ve  been  bilin  ever  since,  and  I’ve 
changed  the  water  three  times,  but  tain’t  no  use,  I reckon ; 
thar  so  bitter  now  that  no  woman  in  Rackensack  (Arkan- 
sas) can  eat  um.” 

After  the  supper  was  concluded  a room  with  three  beds 
was  assigned  to  our  use,  and  we  congratulated  ourselves 
on  the  prospect  of  .obtaining  a comfortable  night’s  repose. 
Shortly  after  we  had  retired,  however,  I felt  something,  as  I 
imagined,  crawling  upon  my  legs,  and  made  several  rapid 
passes  with  my  hand  for  the  purpose  of  catching  the  intrud- 
er ; but  without  success ; he  constantly  eluded  my  grasp ; 
and,  after  many  failures,  the  tickling  sensation  still  continu- 
ing, I quietly  got  up,  lit  a candle,  returned  to  the  bed  and 
pulled  down  the  clothes,  when,  without  the  slightest  exag- 
geration, I sincerely  believe  that,  at  a moderate  estimate, 
at  least  ten  thousand  bedbugs  greeted  my  eyes.  There  was 
a perfect  army  of  them,  marching  and  countermarching  in 
all  directions,  apparently  seeking  whom  they  might  devour. 
As  the  prospect  for  sleep  did  not  appear  very  encouraging 
here,  I took  my  own  blanket,  went  out  into  the  inclosure  in 
front  of  the  house,  and  lay  down  upon  the  grass.  As  I 
was  passing  out,  the  gentleman  from  New  York  called  out, 

2 1* 


378 


CURIOSITY. 


“What  in  thunder  is  it  that  tickles  my  legs  so?”  I re- 
plied, “ Nothing  at  all,”  and  recommended  him  to  go  to 
sleep  and  remain  quiet.  It  was  but  a short  time,  however, 
before  both  my  companions  joined  me,  and  we  all  passed 
the  remainder  of  the  night  upon  the  grass. 

The  people  of  the  New  England  States  are  proverbial  for 
their  curiosity,  and  it  is  sometimes  difficult  to' elude  their 
inquisitive  and  persevering  tact  in  gaining  the  information 
they  desire.  For  example,  I was  traveling  through  Wis- 
consin during  the  early  period  of  its  settlement  in  1838, 
and  stopped  overnight  at  a small  log  tavern  in  Janesville, 
on  Rock  River.  The  house,  on  my  arrival,  was  occupied 
by  a number  of  travelers,  all  crowded  into  one  small  room, 
and  among  them  I observed  a man  evidently  from  New 
England,  who  made  himself  conspicuous  by  questioning 
every  one  as  to  where  he  was  from,  where  he  was  going, 
what  his  business  was,  etc.,  etc. 

During  the  evening  he  accosted  me  by  saying,  “ From 
Madison,  mister?” 

Not  feeling  disposed  to  gratify  his  impertinent  proclivi- 
ties, I abruptly  replied,  “No,  sir.” 

He  then  said,  “Oh,  yer  from  Mineral  Pint,  hay?” 

“No.” 

“Goin  tu  Milwakee?” 

“No.” 

“Oh, maybe  yer  goin  tu  Racine?” 

“ No,  sir,  no,  I tell  you.”  I then  asked  him  if  there  were 
any  other  items  of  information  upon  which  I could  enlight- 
en him.  He  hesitated  for  an  instant,  then  continued : 

“Live  at  Prairie  du  Chien, mister?” 

“No.” 

“ Mabby  ye  live  at  Gerlena?” 

“ No,  sir.” 

“ Where  du  ye  make  it  yer  hum  ?” 


ROVERS. 


379 


I replied  “nowhere  in  particular,”  but  informed  him  that 
the  peculiar  idiosyncrasy  of  my  individual  'penchant  rather 
inclined  me  to  adopt  a cosmopolitan  life.  This  answer  ap- 
peared to  puzzle  him  greatly,  and  the  only  reply  he  made 
was  to  raise  his  hands,  turn  up  his  eyes,  and  exclaim,  “You 
doan’t  say  so,  neou,  du  yer.”  He  suspended  his  interroga- 
tories here,  but  evidently  resolved  to  watch  me  closely. 

Now  the  fact  is,  I was  at  that  time  stationed  at  Fort 
Winnebago,  and  en  route  for  Chicago,  but  I firmly  resolved 
that  the  Yankee  (I  am  one  myself,  and  have  a right  to  tell 
them  their  faults)  should  not  discover  it  if  I could  possibly 
prevent  it.  Soon  afterward,  however,  my  companion  du 
voyage  entered,  and  approaching  me,  said,  “ I wish,  Marcy, 
on  your  return  from  Chicago,  you  would  remember  me 
very  kindly  to  the  officers  at  Winnebago.” 

The  inquisitive  individual  instantly  jumped  up,  and  with 
a most  gratified  expression  of  countenance  exclaimed,  “Oh, 
Mr.  Marcy,  ye  make  it  yer  hum  tu  Winnebago,  doan’t  ye, 
and  yer  going  tu  Chicago,  ain’t  ye?” 

I was  considerably  annoyed  at  his  triumph,  but  the  only 
retaliation  I was  able  to  inflict  upon  him  was  to  suggest 
that,  in  my  opinion,  it  would  be  just  as  well  for  him  if  he 
would  attend  to  his  own  affairs,  and  let  other  people  alone. 

Another  trait  in  the  character  of  the  New  England  man 
which  is  fully  as  marked  as  their  desire  to  obtain  informa- 
tion is  their  erratic  cosmopolitan  propensity  for  locomotion 
and  roaming.  They  are  eminently  social  and  gregarious 
in  their  dispositions  and  habits,  but  at  the  same  time  they 
are  very  far  from  being  local  or  clannish  in  their  proclivi- 
ties, and  they  may  be  found  dispersed  throughout  almost 
all  the  habitable  parts  of  the  universe. 

At  the  time  the  army  under  General  Taylor  occupied 
Brownsville,  opposite  Matamoras,  during  the  spring  of  1846, 
we  found  it  very  difficult  to  procure  supplies  of  vegetables 


380 


A YANKEE-MEXICAN. 


and  fruits,  and  I had,  for  the  first  time,  turned  my  attention 
to  the  Spanish  language  as  the  only  means  of  communica- 
ting with  the  Mexicans,  and  had,  with  a great  deal  of  diffi- 
culty, mastered  a few  useful  phrases,  when  one  day  I start- 
ed out  in  search  of  supplies  for  our  mess. 

I had  not  gone  far  before  I met  an  old  Mexican  (as  I 
supposed),  dressed  in  full  Spanish  costume,  with  slashed 
trowsers,  gilt  buttons,  and  broad  - brimmed  sombrero,  and 
followed  by  several  senoras  and  senoritas  leading  bur  os 
packed  with  vegetables.  I halted,  and  pointing  to  a good- 
sized  cabbage,  said,  “Quantus  pour  este,  senor?”  (Howr 
much  for  that,  sir?)  To  which  the  man,  to  my  astonish- 
ment, answered,  “Abeout  tue  bits;”  upon  which  I said, 
“ You  speak  English  very  well,  senor.”  He  rejoined, 
“Well,  I think  I or-tue — I come  from  Massachusetts.” 

Upon  inquiry,  I learned  that  this  man  was  born  and 
raised  only  about  twenty  miles  from  my  own  native  town, 
and  that  he  had  emigrated  to  Texas  some  thirty  years  be- 
fore ; was  engaged  in  General  Green’s  expedition  at  Mier, 
captured  and  taken  to  Mexico  as  a prisoner,  and  subse- 
quently confined  in  the  Castle  of  Perote  for  a long  time, 
but  was  finally  released,  and  found  his  way  back  to  Mata- 
moras,  where  he  had  lived  ever  since,  adopting  the  Mexi- 
can costume  and  habits. 

The  propensity  of  the  New  Englanders  for  wandering 
does  not  seem  to  be  confined  to  the  male  sex,  as  the  fol- 
lowing little  incident  will  show. 

During  the  summer  of  1864, 1 was  descending  the  Mis- 
sissippi River  en  route  from  Little  Rock,  when  the  steamer 
I was  upon  stopped  to  wood  at  an  island  where  a contra- 
band wood-yard  had  been  established  under  government 
protection. 

While  the  steamer  was  receiving  its  fuel  I walked  out 
upon  shore,  where  I found  quite  a group  of  log-huts  erected 


A RECOGNITION. 


881 


tor  the  use  of  the  negroes.  In  the  door  of  one  of  them  I 
saw  an  elderly  white  woman  standing,  and  entered  into 
conversation  with  her.  After  a few  minutes  she  asked  me 
if  I was  attached  to  the  army,  and  on  my  giving  an  affirm- 
ative answer,  she  continued,  “ What  may  I call  your  name  ?” 
I said  “ Marcy.”  “ What,  R.  B.  Marcy ?”  “Yes.”  “ Ran- 
dolph B.  Marcy?”  I repeated  “Yes.”  “Are  you  from 
Massachusetts?”  “Yes.”  “From  Hampshire  County?” 
“Yes.”  “ From  Greenwich  ?”  “Yes.”  “ The  son  of  L. 
Marcy?”  “Yes.”  “ Well,  then,  I made  your  shirts  when 
you  went  to  West  Point.”  Of  course  I was  very  much  as- 
tonished, and  begged  to  ask  whom  I had  the  honor  of  ad- 
dressing, and  how  it  happened  that  she  had  wandered  so  far 
from  the  place  of  her  nativity.  She  stated  that  she  had 
been  sent  out  here  by  some  Christian  benevolent  associa- 
tion to  teach  the  freedmen’s  children,  and  she  was,  I be- 
lieve, the  only  white  female  upon  the  island ; at  all  events, 
I saw  no  other. 

It  is  very  true  that  the  New  Englanders  seem  to  be  pos- 
sessed with  an  irresistible  penchant  for  accumulating  as 
large  a stock  as  possible  of  useful  information,  nevertheless 
I have  observed  the  same  dominant  proclivities  in  the  char- 
acter of  the  Southern  and  Western  people ; with  them,  how- 
ever, they  are  manifested  in  a more  direct  and  blunt  man- 
ner. 

A friend  of  mine,  who  was  traveling  in  Alabama  upon 
one  occasion,  met  a man  in  the  road  who  accosted  him  as 
follows : “ Whar  ar  ye  from,  stranger  ?”  He,  knowing  the* 
prejudices  of  the  Southern  people  against  the  “Yankees,” 
although  he  had  never  been  there  in  his  life,  replied,  “ From 
Richmond.” 

At  this  answer  the  man  said,  “ I once  know’d  a heap  o’ 
people  in  Richmond,  and  I’ve  got  right  smart  of  kin-folks 
thar  too;  maybe  you  mought  know  Jim  Johnson,  of  Main 


382 


HOSPITALITY. 


Street?”  to  which,  my  friend  was  obliged  to  answer  in 
the  negative.  “Wall,  now,  stranger,  do  yer  know  Jake 
Brown,  on  Broad  Street?”  He  said  he  had  not  the  pleas- 
ure of  his  acquaintance  either.  Several  other  interrogato- 
ries about  Richmond  were  asked  and  replied  to  in  a similar 
manner,  greatly  to  the  confusion  of  my  friend,  who,  not- 
withstanding the  Southern  prejudices  against  New  En- 
glanders, resolved  the  next  time  he  was  questioned  to  tell 
the  truth. 

He  soon  afterward  met  another  man,  who  said  to  him, 
“ Whar  did  ye  come  from,  stranger?” 

“ I came  from  Connecticut,  sir.” 

“ Whar  did  ye  say  ?” 

“ From  Connecticut.” 

“Connecticut?  Connecticut?”  repeated  the  man,  with  a 
puzzled  look ; “ wall,  now,  stranger,  I don’t  mind  hearin  o’ 
that  thar  town  afore,  I be  dogond  ef  I do.” 

Virginians  are  proverbial  for  their  hospitality,  and  I have 
no  doubt  that  very  many  of  them  richly  deserve  the  envia- 
ble reputation  they  have  acquired  for  the  liberal,  open- 
handed  manner  in  which  they  entertain  their  guests ; but  I 
am  compelled  to  acknowledge  that  in  my  travels  I have 
found  exceptions  to  this  rule. 

In  1849  I made  a road  from  New  Mexico,  passing 
through  Northern  Texas  to  Arkansas,  which  was  traveled 
for  several  years  by  California  emigrants,  thus  affording  a 
good  market  to  the  farmers  along  the  adjacent  country  for 
their  produce. 

In  1854  I passed  over  this  road  again,  and  stopped  for 
dinner  at  a plantation  owned  by  a Mr.  McCarty,  from  Vir- 
ginia, who,  on  my  arrival,  seemed  highly  delighted  to  see 
me  again,  remarking  that  if  I had  only  notified  him  I was 
coming  that  way,  he  would  have  given  me  the  biggest  bar- 
becue that  country  had  ever  seen. 


BORDER  DIALECTS. 


383 


He  complimented  me  by  saying  that  I had  done  more 
for  the  country  than  any  other  man  living,  and  if  I would 
run  for  Congress  in  that  district  he  would  insure  my  elec- 
tion. I thanked  him  for  his  kind  wishes  in  my  behalf,  and 
informed  him  that  I should  not  be  able  to  stay  for  the  bar- 
becue, but  that,  if  it  was  perfectly  convenient,  we  would 
with  pleasure  dine  with  him. 

After  dinner  I hesitated  for  some  time  about  offering 
compensation  to  our  host,  but  finally  did  so  by  asking  him 
how  much  we  were  indebted  for  our  dinner.  He  replied, 
u Only  six  bits  apiece,  Cap.”  (The  usual  price  in  that  coun- 
try was  two  bits.) 

As  we  were  preparing  to  leave,  he  remarked,  “ You  must 
give  us  a call  on  your  return,  sir , and  stay  overnight  with 
us,  sir  ; I want  to  show  you  a specimen  of  genuine  old  Vir- 
ginia hospitality,  sir”  He  then  directed  one  of  the  negroes 
to  bring  up  our  horses,  and,  as  we  were  mounting,  said, 
u Gentlemen,  don’t  give  that  boy  Jake  two  bits  apiece  for 
taking  care  of  your  horses;  don’t  do  it,  gentlemen.”  (We 
had  then  made  no  demonstrations  toward  rewarding  the 
boy.) 

From  the  price  we  paid  for  our  dinner,  it  occurred  to  me 
that  if  the  barbecue  had  come  off,  the  Virginian’s  hospital- 
ity might  have  proved  rather  an  expensive  affair  to  me. 

The  people  inhabiting  the  rural  districts  of  the  South- 
western States  have,  as  the  reader  has  probably  observed, 
adopted  many  words  and  phrases  which  are  not  found  in 
Webster’s  Dictionary,  or  sanctioned  by  any  of  our  gram- 
marians. They  have  also  taken  the  liberty  of  changing 
the  pronunciation  of  many  words  in  such  a manner,  and 
applying  them  in  such  novel  ways,  that  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible for  one  not  familiar  with  these  peculiarities  to  com- 
prehend their  meaning  in  ordinary  conversation.  For  in- 
stance, they  call  bear,  bar ; door,  doo ; chair,  char ; stair, 


384 


AN  OVERCRAP. 


star ; crop,  crap  ; etc.,  etc.  They  say,  “ I made  right  smart 
o’  craps  this  year,”  or  “ How  ar  ye  crappin  on’t?”  etc.  But 
I heard  this  word  used  in  a still  more  singular  connection 
while  I was  making  the  passage  across  the  Gulf  from  New 
Orleans  to  Powder-horn,  in  company  with  Mr.  Kendall,  for- 
merly of  the  New  Orleans  Picayune,  and  several  other  very 
agreeable  gentlemen,  who  were  en  route  to  Texas. 

Shortly  after  leaving  New  Orleans  our  attention  was  di- 
rected to  a newly-married  couple  on  board,  who  presented 
the  most  extraordinary  contrast  in  size  that  I have  ever 
met  with.  The  man  was  exceedingly  diminutive — I should 
imagine  about  five  feet  high,  and  probably  not  exceeding 
one  hundred  pounds  in  weight ; while,  on  the  other  hand, 
his  bride  was  a most  buxom  and  ponderous  personage,  and, 
as  I verily  believe,  weighed  at  the  smallest  calculation  two 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds.  The  contrast  was  so  marked, 
and  indeed  ludicrous,  that  they  were  the  objects  of  irresist- 
ible observation  and  comment  whenever  they  made  their 
appearance  together. 

One  day  I was  standing  upon  the  upper  deck  of  the 
steamer  while  the  happy  pair  were  promenading  back  and 
forth,  arm  in  arm,  when  a passenger,  who  was  evidently  a 
backwoodsman,  approached  me,  and,  pointing  toward  them, 
said,  “Now,  Cap.,  don’t  you  sorter  reckon  that  thar  little  man 
thar  has  a leetle  bit  overcrapt  hisself  t”  I concurred  with 
him  in  what  I took  to  be  the  import  of  his  agricultural  fig- 
ure, and  observed  that,  in  my  opinion,  the  young  gentleman 
would  have  his  hands  full  in  the  event  of  any  future  dis- 
cord which  should  lead  to  a personal  encounter  between 
them.  He  turned  and  walked  away,  remarking,  “ As  sure 
as  yer  born,  he’s  a mighty  small  chance  of  a man  to  have 
such  a powerful  heap  o’  wife.” 

As  we  were  coming  into  the  border  settlements  of  Texas 
from  my  first  expedition  across  the  Plains  in  1849,  after  an 


LOST  AND  FOUND. 


385 


absence  of  eight  months,  during  which  time  we  had  not 
heard  a word  from  our  friends  at  home,  one  of  the  first 
houses  we  met  with  upon  our  route  was  that  of  a planter 
by  the  name  of  Butt,  who  possessed  a large  force  of  negroes, 
and  cultivated  extensive  crops.  As  may  be  imagined,  our 
wardrobes,  after  a long  march  through  an  unexplored  coun- 
try from  New  Mexico,  were  in  a somewhat  dilapidated  con- 
dition, and  our  tattered  costumes  were  not  such  at  this  time 
as  to  give  any  indication  that  we  held  commissions  in  the 
United  States  Army,  or  to  impress  a stranger  very  favor- 
ably toward  us. 

I started  out  from  camp  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning, 
in  advance  of  the  command,  and,  riding  up  to  Mr.  Butt’s 
gate,  saw  a man  standing  upon  the  piazza,  whom  I took  to 
be  the  proprietor  of  the  establishment,  and  inquired  if  he 
had  any  corn  for  sale.  He,  in  a very  curt  and  indifferent 
manner,  after  casting  a glance  at  me,  said,  “Yes,  I’ve  a plen- 
ty of  corn;”. and  in  reply  to  my  inquiry  as  to  whether  he 
would  sell  me  some,  he  said,  “ Yes,  sir,  if  you’ve  got  money 
to  pay  for  it.” 

I told  him  that,  unfortunately,  our  finances  were  then 
pretty  low,  but,  if  it  would  answer  his  purposes,  I would 
give  him  an  order  upon  the  quartermaster  at  Fort  Wash- 
ita, which  I assured  him  would  be  a good  voucher  for  the 
payment  of  the  corn.  This  proposition  seemed  to  strike 
him  with  surprise,  and,  after  looking  attentively  at  me  for 
a moment,  he  came  out  to  the  gate,  invited  me  to  alight 
and  walk  into  the  house.  He  then  inquired  of  me  what 
part  of  the  country  I came  from,  and  on  my  replying  that  I 
was  just  in  from  the  Plains,  he  said,  “Ah  indeed!  pray  did 
you  hear  any  thing  from  Captain  Marcy  as  you  passed 
through  the  Indian  country  ?”  Now  the  fact  was,  we  had 
been  expected  for  several  weeks,  and  serious  fears  were  be- 
ginning to  be  entertained  by  our  friends  for  our  safety.  I 

2 K 


386 


LOST  AND  FOUND. 


answered  his  question  by  assuring  him  that  I had  several 
times  met  the  individual  he  seemed  to  take  such  an  interest 
in,  and,  indeed,  that  we  had  traveled  together  for  a consid- 
erable distance. 

“Is  it  possible?”  said  he.  “Well,  sir,  can  you  give  me 
any  information  as  to  his  whereabouts  at  this  time,  for  his 
wife  has  been  at  Fort  Washita  several  weeks,  in  a state  of 
considerable  anxiety,  awaiting  tidings  from  him?” 

I replied  that  I had  no  doubt  the  lady  had  a proper  ap- 
preciation of  the  perils  her  husband  had  been  subjected  to, 
but  that  I knew  him  well,  as  we  had  been  raised  and  were 
schoolmates  together ; indeed,  I said,  the  origin  of  our  ac- 
quaintance might  be  dated  some  forty  years  back.  I,  how- 
ever, quietly  intimated  to  him  that  it  might  be  just  as  well 
for  him  to  say  nothing  about  the  exact  number  of  years  to 

Mrs.  M , as  I was  under  the  impression  that  she  was  a 

little  sensitive  upon  this  particular  subject.  I then  added 
that,  according  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  belief,  the 
captain  was  the  identical  personage  with  whom  he  was  con- 
versing at  that  very  instant.  Of  course  he  was  greatly  as- 
tonished, and  told  me  that  his  corn,  hay,  house,  and  every 
thing  it  contained,  were  all  at  my  disposal. 

I frequently  met  Mr.  Butt  afterward,  and  am  indebted  to 
him  and  his  accomplished  lady  for  many  hospitalities  which 
they  have  extended  to  me. 

In  passing  through  the  interior  settlements  of  Texas,  Ar- 
kansas, and  Southwestern  Missouri,  the  traveler  rarely  sees 
a church  or  school-house.  The  few  plapes  of  public  wor- 
ship that  are  met  with  in  this  country  are  generally  located 
in  the  vicinity  of  springs  and  in  groves  of  timber,  where 
semicircular  tiers  of  benches  are  placed,  with  a pulpit  in 
the  centre,  something  in  the  form  of  a decapitated  sentry- 
box,  the  whole  having  no  other  covering  but  the  branches 
of  the  trees,  surmounted  by  the  canopy  of  the  heavens; 


A BOLD  PARSON. 


387 


and  it  is  only  occasionally,  at  wide  intervals  of  time,  when 
a circuit  or  other  itinerant  preacher  happens  to  come  around, 
that  they  have  an  opportunity  of  listening  to  any  elucida- 
tion of  the  Scriptures.  The  consequence  is,  that  these  peo- 
ple have  but  little  appreciation  of  the  sanctity  and  holiness 
of  the  principles  inculcated  by  our  Christian  religion,  and 
do  not,  in  many  cases,  entertain  a proper  respect  and  rev- 
erence for  the  teachers  of  this  religion. 

The  Reverend  Mr.  C , who  had  spent  the  greater 

part  of  his  life  in  endeavoring  to  improve  the  spiritual  con- 
dition of  the  people  in  Western  Texas,  was  at  one  time  ap- 
pointed chaplain  for  a military  post  at  which  I chanced  to 
be  stationed,  and  related  to  me  several  quite  amusing  inci- 
dents connected  with  his  professional  career  in  that  country. 

He  was  a man  of  most  unexceptionable  moral  and  re- 
ligious character,  besides  being  an  educated  and  refined  gen- 
tleman; but,  at  the  same  time,  he  possessed  an  irascible 
and  explosive  temperament,  which  required  the  exercise  of 
all  his  powers  of  self-discipline  to  keep  it  under  proper 
subjection.  For  example,  he  once  learned  that  a certain 
deacon  of  his  church  had  made  allegations  which  were 
highly  detrimental  to  his  character,  and  wholly  untrue. 
This  roused  his  indignation  to  such  a pitch  that,  upon  the 
impulse  of  the  moment,  he  seized  a cowhide,  and  started 
out  with  the  firm  determination  of  giving  him  a sound  flag- 
ellation ; but,  before  reaching  the  deacon’s  residence,  it  oc- 
curred to  him  that  this  was  rather  an  improper  proceeding 
for  a man  of  his  profession,  and,  after  a little  reflection,  he 
abandoned  his  purpose. 

While  riding  his  circuit  at  one  time  in  the  sparsely-set- 
tled country  bordering  Red  River,  he  wandered  from  his 
customary  route,  and  was  overtaken  by  night  near  the 
house  of  a gambler  of  notoriously  desperate  character, 
whose  hostility  to  religious  persons  had  been  evinced  upon 


388 


A BOLD  PARSON. 


numerous  occasions,  and  was  proverbial.  It  was  generally 
believed  that  he  had  been  guilty  of  more  heinous  practice's 
than  that  of  obtaining  money  by  the  exercise  of  the  tricks 
of  his  profession,  and  it  was  even  hinted  that  some  of  the 
travelers  who  had  taken  lodgings  at  his  house  had  very 

mysteriously  disappeared.  Mr.  C was  perfectly  aware 

of  these  facts,  and  would  have  preferred  other  quarters; 
but  he  was  a valorous  “soldier  of  the  Cross,”  of  whom  it 
might  very  truly  be  said  “ that  he  feared  neither  man  nor 
the  devil,”  and  he  did  not  hesitate  to  stop.  As  he  rode  up 
to  the  door,  he  overheard  the  man  observe  to  his  wife, 
“ There  comes  that  d — d old  parson.  I suppose  he  wants 
to  stay  overnight ; but  if  he  thinks  I am  going  to  put  up 
with  his  praying  and  psalm-singing,  he  is  very  much  mis- 
taken. I’ll  make  him  pay  his  bill  in  different  coin  from 
that.”  He  paid  no  attention  to  the  ill-natured  remark,  but, 
dismounting,  entered  the  house,  and  informed  the  surly  pro- 
prietor that  he-  intended  passing  the  night  with  him.  To 
which  the  man  replied  that  perhaps  he  would  suspend  his 
decision  upon  that  subject  until  he  had  ascertained  whether 
his  presence  would  be  agreeable.  To  this  he  made  no  an- 
swer, excepting,  as  he  pulled  off  his  overcoat,  he  observed 
that  he  had  come  to  stay.  When  supper  was  announced, 
and  all  were  seated  at  the  table,  the  gambler  seized  his  knife 
and  fork,  and  was  about  commencing  his  repast,  when  the 
clergyman  raised  his  hands  as  in  the  act  of  invoking  a bless- 
ing, and,  at  the  same  time,  cast  a stern  look  of  inquiry  at 
him,  which  caused  him  to  drop  his  knife  and  fork,  and  in 
an  indignant  tone  to  say,  11  Let  er  slide,  parson.”  He  was 
evidently  much  annoyed  at  the  rather  arbitrary  and  dicta- 
torial manner  in  which  the  clerical  gentleman  exercised  his 
ecclesiastical  prerogatives  upon  his  premises,  and  hardly 
condescended  to  address  any  conversation  to  him  during 
the  evening.  The  clergyman,  however,  was  not  at  all  in- 


TEXAN  PIONEERS. 


389 


timidated  or  disconcerted  by  these  manifestations  of  dissat- 
isfaction and  ill-humor,  and  resolved,  when  the  time  ap- 
proached for  retiring  to  bed,  that  he  would  perform  his 
customary  evening  family  service.  Thereupon  he  drew 
from  his  pocket  a Bible,  and  in  a very  solemn  and  stern 
manner  motioned  to  the  gambler  to  bring  him  a small 
table.  He  complied  with  the  summons,  seized  the  table, 
and  in  a manner  as  if  to  ventilate  his  indignation,  slammed 
it  down  in  front  of  his  guest ; then,  resuming  his  seat,  com- 
menced whistling  the  “Arkansas  Traveler.”  The  clergy- 
man said  nothing,  but  looked  a severe  reprimand  at  him 
while  he  significantly  pointed  his  finger  to  the  Bible.  This 
had  the  desired  effect.  He  ceased  his  derisive  whistling, 
and,  with  a most  disgusted  air,  said,  “Well,  d — n it,  par- 
son, bile  ahead .” 

The  night  passed  quietly,  the  morning  service  was  per- 
formed, and,  as  my  friend  was  about  taking  his  departure, 
he  opened  his  purse  and  inquired  the  amount  of  his  bill, 
and  received  the  following  laconic  reply:  “Not  a d — d 
cent,  parson ; go  along  about  your  business ; but  don’t 
come  psalm-singing  around  my  house  any  more,  for  I won’t 
stand  it.” 

Among  the  pioneers  who,  under  the  inducements  held 
out  by  Mexico,  first  emigrated  to  Texas  from  the  United 
States,  were  many  worthy  citizens,  who  entered  this  new 
field  of  enterprise  with  the  design  of  making  permanent 
homes  for  their  families ; but  with  these  were  commingled 
adventurous  spirits,  who  sought  excitement  and  danger; 
also  individuals  of  desperate  fortunes,  who  had  nothing  to 
lose ; as  well  as  refugees  from  justice,  who  deemed  this  the 
safest  asylum  to  escape  the  penalties  due  to  their  crimes. 

As  a necessary  consequence,  society  composed  of  such 
heterogeneous  elements  was  eminently  impulsive,  unsettled, 
and  lawless.  During  the  revolution  which  was  inaugurated 

2K* 


890 


FREQUENCY  OF  MURDERS*. 


and  carried  on  by  them,  and  indeed  for  years  after  they 
had  secured  their  independence,  many  of  the  border  set- 
tlers held  themselves  amenable  to  no  laws  save  those  that 
were  enforced  at  the  muzzle  of  the  revolver  and  the  point 
of  the  bowie-knife.  Even  as  late  as  1854,  after  the  forms 
of  statutory  civil  jurisdiction  had  been  instituted  under 
legislative  enactment,  and  courts  had  been  established,  the 
authorities  were,  as  a general  rule,  almost  entirely  disre- 
garded, and  virtually  set  at  defiance  by  the  lawless  desper- 
adoes along  the  borders,  and  crimes  of  the  greatest  turpi-, 
tude  were  perpetrated  almost  daily. 

The  law  officers  seldom,  if  ever,  took  cognizance  of  cases 
where  men  were  killed  in  personal  encounters,  and  often- 
times the  most  foul  and  premeditated  murders  were  allowed 
to  pass  by  unnoticed. 

To  such  an  extent  were  these  atrocities  sometimes  car- 
ried, that  the  better  classes  of  the  people,  seeing  the  impo- 
tence of  the  legal  authorities,  and,  in  some  instances,  their 
probable  complicity  with  the  perpetrators  of  the  crimes, 
would  become  roused  to  such  a pitch  of  indignation  that 
they  occasionally  took  the  law  into  their  own  hands,  and 
executed  summary  justice  according  to  the  code  of  Judge 
Lynch. 

Murderers  were  often  allowed  to  escape  trial  or  punish- 
ment, but  it  was  seldom  that  a man  who  had  been  guilty 
of  horse-stealing  could  avoid  the  extreme  penalty  of  Lynch 
law;  this  was  looked  upon  by  them  as  the  most  unpardon- 
able offense  known  to  their  legal  calendar,  and  public  sen- 
timent was  unanimous  in  pronouncing  this  a capital  crime, 
only  to  be  expiated  at  the  end  of  the  halter. 

While  I was  stationed  upon  the  Rio  Grande,  a quiet,  re- 
spectable citizen,  whom  I happened  to  know,  arrived  at  Rio 
Grande  City,  opposite  Comargo,  and,  entering  a billiard  sa- 
loon, seated  himself  to  observe  the  game.  He  had  not  been 


A DESPERADO. 


391 


there  long  before  a man  who  was  an  entire  stranger  to  him 
came  in  and  blustered  around  a good  deal,  with  the  evident 
intention  of  creating  a disturbance.  He  made  frequent  in- 
sulting remarks  to  persons  in  the  room,  endeavoring  to 
bully  them  into  a quarrel,  but  they  did  not  seem  disposed 
to  come  in  collision  with  him.  At  length,  however,  he  ap- 
proached the  stranger,  and  in  an  insulting  tone  said,  “ Per- 
haps you  may  have  something  to  say  about  it?” 

“About  what,  sir?”  he  replied. 

“ Why,  sir,  about  my  being  the  best  man  in  all  Texas. 
I make  this  assertion,  and  would  like  to  see  the  man  who 
presumed  to  differ  with  me  upon  that  subject.” 

The  stranger  was  so  much  annoyed  at  these  impertinent 
remarks  that  he  replied,  “ In  my  opinion,  you,  instead  of 
being  the  best,  are  about  the  worst  man  I have  met  with  in 
the  state.”  This  brought  on  a quarrel,  which  resulted  in 
both  parties  drawing  their  revolvers,  and  firing  several 
shots  at  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  The  man  who  gave 
the  insult  was  killed,  and  the  other  was  so  severely  wound- 
ed that  he  could  not  stand. 

At  this  juncture  a notorious  desperado  entered  the  estab- 
lishment, and  seeing  the  two  men  lying  upon  the  floor,  de- 
manded to  know  what  had  happened,  and  on  being  in- 
formed, drew  his  revolver,  went  up  to  the  living  man,  who 
was  stretched  out  perfectly  powerless,  and  told  him  he  in- 
tended taking  his  life.  The  man  begged  of  him  to  allow 
him  to  see  a friend  in  town  for  a moment,  in  order  to  make 
some  arrangements  about  his  family  affairs.  He  told  him 
he  would  not  permit  it,  and,  holding  the  pistol  near  his 
head,  deliberately  fired  several  balls  into  his  brain,  either 
of  which  was  sufficient  to  take  his  life ; after  which  he 
walked  around  the  dead  body  of  his  victim  for  several 
hours,  defying  every  body,  and  challenging  the  community 
to  attempt  his  arrest.  No  one,  however,  felt  disposed  to 


392 


MAJOR  NEIGHBORS. 


encounter  the  fiend,  and  he  was  suffered  to  remain  unmo- 
lested in  town  until  the  following  day,  when  he  mounted 
his  horse  and  quietly  rode  off. 

These  facts  were  related  to  me  by  a respectable  gentle- 
man of  the  place,  who  was  an  eyewitness  to  at  least  a por- 
tion of  the  tragedy,  and  who  made  an  effort  to  get  up  a par- 
ty to  lynch  the  murderer ; but  the  friends  of  the  latter  were 
so.  numerous  that  he  was  very  glad  to  suspend  proceedings. 
The  last  time  I heard  of  the  desperado  he  was  living  at 
San  Antonio,  and,  for  aught  I know,  is  there  still. 

My  friend,  Major  Neighbors,  whom  I have  several  times 
before  alluded  to,  related  to  me  the  following  incident  in 
his  experience  among  the  early  settlers  of  Texas : 

He  was,  during  the  revolution,  attached  to  the  army  in 
the  capacity  of  quartermaster,  and  upon  one  occasion  had 
purchased  a quantity  of  corn  from  a farmer  somewhere  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Austin ; but,  for  want  of  the  means  of 
transportation,  could  not  remove  it  at  the  time,  and  ar- 
ranged with  the  vendor  to  keep  it  in  store  until  it  could  be 
sent  for.  After  a considerable  lapse  of  time  he  procured 
wagons  and  went  for  the  corn  ; but,  on  his  arrival,  the  per- 
son from  whom  it  was  purchased  stated  that  he  had  a claim 
against  the  government,  and  should  not  allow  the  grain  to 
be  taken  away  until  this  claim  was  liquidated.  The  major 
replied  that,  as  the  corn  had  already  been  paid  for,  he 
should  certainly  take  it,  and  accordingly  directed  his  men 
to  load  up  the  wagons,  which  was  done;  but,  as  he  was 
about  leaving,  the  man  assured  him  that  before  he  reached 
Austin  the  corn  would  certainly  be  taken  from  him.  The 
major  comprehended  the  import  of  the  threat,  and  told  the 
man  that  he  should  encamp  at  a certain  spring,  where  he 
could  be  found  until  nine  o’clock  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  that  he  should  be  ready  to  receive  any  proposi- 
tions he  might  have  to  make.  He  knew  the  man  to  be  of 


ABATING  A NUISANCE. 


398 


desperate  character,  and  anticipated  trouble  with  him.  He 
therefore,  on  the  following  morning,  cleaned,  recharged,  and 
recapped  his  rifle,  and  awaited  the  issue.  About  nine 
o’clock  the  man  rode  up  with  several  of  his  associates,  all 
fully  armed,  and  apparently  prepared  for  battle ; but  the 
friends  of  the  man  did  not  seem  disposed  to  engage  in  the 
contest^  and  held  a little  back,  while  the  principal  individ- 
ual dismounted  and  took  a position  behind  an  unoccupied 
log  hut,  from  whence  he  would  occasionally  show  himself 
around  the  corner  and  fire  at  the  major  with  his  revolver, 
but  did  not  hit  him.  The  major  then  placed  his  rifle  to  his 
shoulder,  and,  when  his  antagonist  made  his  appearance 
again,  drew  trigger;  but  the  gun  missed  fire.  He  put  on  a 
new  cap,  and  missed  the  second  time.  He  then  deliberate- 
ly pricked  some  powder  into  the  cone,  and  recapped  the 
rifle,,  while,  in  the  mean  time,  his  antagonist  was  firing  sev- 
eral shots  at  him,  none  of  which  took  effect.  Then,  raising 
his  rifle  again,  he  fired,  shot  the  man  through  the  brain, 
and  he  fell  dead  in  his  tracks.  His  companions  then  ap- 
proached, and  congratulated  the  major  on  having  performed 
a meritorious  act  in  ridding  the  country  of  a bad  subject, 
who  was  a nuisance  to  the  whole  neighborhood. 

Major  Neighbors  was  attached  to  the  celebrated  Mier 
expedition,  and  was  taken  prisoner,  marched  to  the  city  of 
Mexico,  and  thence  to  Pueblo,  where  he  and  his  compan- 
ions received  very  harsh  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the 
Mexicans.  He  informed  me  that  himself  and  five  comrades 
were  every  morning  harnessed  into  a cart  and  conducted 
by  a guard  to  the  city  market,  where  supplies  for  the  day 
were  procured,  and  hauled  by  this  novel  six-man  team  back 
to  the  prison. 

Notwithstanding -the  rigor  of  their  treatment  here,  the 
major  said  they  were  generally  in  good  spirits,  and  many 
practical  jokes  were  perpetrated  upon  the  simple-minded 


394 


A YANKEE  TEAM. 


soldiers  who  had  them  in  charge.  The  “ off  lead ” man  in 
the  team  before  mentioned  was  very  conspicuous  in  this 
regard ; indeed,  he  seemed  utterly  unable  to  resist  improv- 
ing an  opportunity  for  a good  joke.  As  an  instance,  one 
morning,  while  they  were  being  driven  into  the  market, 
they  were  passing  the  stall  of  a very  old  Mexican  woman, 
whose  peculiarly  fantastic  costume,  and  shriveled,  haggard 
countenance  gave  her  more  the  appearance  of  a fiend  than 
a human  being.  As  soon  as  the  off  leader  caught  a glimpse 
of  this  hideous  old  woman,  he  cast  a wink  back  at  his  com- 
rades, and,  suddenly  raising  his  head  and  snorting  like  a 
horse,  started  off  in  a trot,  sheering  around  her,  and  gradu- 
ally turning  his  head  in  imitation  of  a horse  who  shuns  a 
suspicious-looking  object.  All  the  other  men  entered  into 
the  spirit  of  the  joke,  and  followed  him  around,  pretending 
to  be  prodigiously  frightened,  and  they  all  with  one  accord 
set  out  at  full  speed  down  the  Jalapa  Eoad,  with  the  cart 
rattling  along  over  the  pavement  behind  them,  and  pursued 
by  the  astonished  guard,  calling  out  in  Spanish  at  the  top 
of  their  voices  for  them  to  halt.  They  paid  no  attention  to 
the  order,  but  continued  on  for  nearly  a mile  before  the 
guard  was  able  to  get  around  them  and  arrest  their  head- 
way. The  officer  then  came  up,  very  much  blown,  and  in 
a most  excited  and  angry  tone  demanded  to  know  what 
they  meant  by  such  insubordinate  conduct.  The  “ off  lead- 
er,”  who  was  the  originator  of  the  joke,  asked  him  if  he  did 
not  observe  that  horrible  old  hag  sitting  in  the  market- 
place. “Was  that  what  frightened  you  so?”  said  the  offi- 
cer. “Why,  certainly,”  he  replied;  “she  did  it,  and  we 
could  not  help  running  away : did  she  not  scare  you  too  ?” 
“ No,”  he  answered,  slapping  his  breast,  “ I am  a soldier, 
and  am  not  intimidated  by  such  trifles.”  They  were  then 
taken  back  to  the  market,  and  as  they  approached  near  the 
old  woman,  the  officer,  observing,  as  he  thought,  some  indi- 


GENERAL  HOUSTON. 


395 


cations  of  another  stampede,  ordered  two  of  his  men  to  take 
the  leaders  by  the  heads,  and  conduct  them  by  a wide  cir- 
cuit around  the  object  of  their  supposed  terror. 

They  overheard  the  officer  report  the  affair  to  the  com- 
mander of  the  Tort  on  their  return,  and  the  latter  affirmed, 
as  his  candid  opinion,  that  “ los  Gringos ” (Yankees)  were 
great  cowards  after  all. 

In  1854  I had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  Colonel  McLeod, 
who  commanded  the  expedition  to  Santa  Fe  in  1841,  so 
graphically  described  by  Mr.  Kendall  in  his  interesting  nar- 
rative of  that  expedition.  Colonel  McLeod  was  at  one  time 
adjutant  general  of  the  republic  of  Texas  when  General 
Houston  was  president,  and  he  related  to  me  several  very 
amusing  anecdotes  in  relation  to  the  general.  I can  not,  of 
course,  give  them  to  the  reader  in  his  peculiarly  felicitous 
and  happy  style,  but  I will  attempt  to  convey  as  correct  an 
idea  of  the  substance  of  one  or  two  of  them  as  possible. 

At  one  time  a large  force  of  volunteers  had  been  called 
out  to  resist  the  encroachments  of  a numerous  band  of  In- 
dians, who  were  reported  as  advancing  on  Nacogdoches. 
These  troops  were  placed  under  command  of  General  Rusk, 
afterward  United  States  Senator,  and  were  composed  of 
frontier  rangers,  every  man  of  whom  considered  himself 
as  good  as  the  president,  secretary  of  war,  or  any  other  dig- 
nitary in  the  universe. 

After  the  troops  had  been  assembled,  they  were  all  desir- 
ous of  encountering  the  savages,  and  felt  very  confident  of 
their  ability  to  defeat  them ; but  it  appears  that  the  presi- 
dent, who  was  at  General  Rusk’s  head-quarters,  entertained 
a different  opinion,  and  either  entered  into  a treaty,  or  made 
some  other  arrangements  by  which  the  Indians  were  al- 
lowed to  escape  without  a battle.  The  troops  were  then  dis- 
banded and  authorized  to  return  home.  On  the  following 
day  the  streets  of  Nacogdoches  were  filled  with  them,  and 


396 


QUIETING  A VOLUNTEER. 


there  was  a general  jollification ; but,  at  the  same  time,  it 
appeared  that  great  dissatisfaction  was  entertained  against 
the  president  for  his  pacific  action  in  the  matter,  and  some 
of  them  did  not  hesitate  to  give  expression  to  their  feelings 
in  open  denunciations  of  his  course. 

During  the  day  Generals  Houston  and  Rusk  and  Col- 
onel McLeod  were  walking  through  the  streets,  when  they 
came  near  a large  collection  of  men,  and  in  their  midst  was 
a young  and  stalwart  disbanded  volunteer,  who  had  prob- 
ably taken  several  drinks,  and  was  expatiating  in  a most 
excited  and  vociferous  manner  to  the  people  around  him. 

The  trio  halted,  and  General  Houston  said,  “ It  seems  to 
me,  General  Rusk,  that  you  do  not  preserve  very  good  or- 
der or  discipline  among  your  men.” 

General  Rusk  replied  that  these  men  were  disbanded, 
and  they  were  not  then  subject  to  his  control.  “Well, 
Rusk,”  said  the  general,  “ come  along  with  me,  and  I’ll 
show  you  how  to  dispose  of  such  disorderly  crowds.”  Col- 
onel McLeod  thought  he  would  like  to  witness  the  gener- 
al’s method  of  enforcing  discipline  among  the  “Mustangs” 
and  the  three  set  off  together.  It  was  with  great  difficulty 
that  they  were  enabled  to  penetrate  the  dense  mass  of  men 
to  where  the  unruly  speaker  was  holding  forth,  but,  by  dint 
of  a good  deal  of  hard  squeezing,  twisting,  and  turning, 
they  at  length  found  themselves  confronting  the  speaker, 
when  General  Houston,  in  a very  mild  and  amiable  tone 
of  voice,  after  placing  his  hand  on  the  young  man’s  shoul- 
der and  looking  him  in  the  eye,  said,  “ Are  you  not  aware, 
my  young  friend,  that  you  are  disturbing  the  peace  and 
quiet  of  this  community,  and  that,  too,  sir,  in  the  presence 
of  the  President  of  the  Republic?”  The  young  man,  who 
the  instant  before  had  been  screaming  at  the  highest  pitch 
of  his  voice  and  gesticulating  in  the  most  excited  manner, 
suddenly  ceased  his  harangue,  and,  turning  upon  the  gen- 


A HARD  CASE. 


397 


eral,  in  a low  but  very  emphatic  tone,  said,  “Are  you  Sam 
Houston  f” 

“ 1 am,  sir,”  be  replied. 

“Are  you  the  President  of  the  Republic  ?” 

“Yes,  my  young  friend,  I have  the  honor  to  bear  that 
distinguished  cognomen.” 

At  this  the  young  man  closed  his  fists,  and,  springing 
like  a tiger  upon  the  general,  knocked  him  down,  while  at 
the  same  time  he  exclaimed,  “Well,  d — n you,  Sam  Hous- 
ton,  you  are  the  very  man  I wanted  to  see and  it  was 
with  great  difficulty  that  they  extricated  the  poor  old  man 
from  the  clutches  of  the  infuriated  volunteer. 

The  stoical  indifference  with  which  the  frontiersman  sub- 
mits to  misfortunes  of  the  most  disastrous  character  is  strik- 
ingly exhibited  in  the  following  incident,  which  is  related 
by  Captain  Burton  in  his  work  on  the  “ City  of  the  Saints.” 
A man,  traveling  upon  the  desert  of  the  Humboldt,  was  pass- 
ing a solitary  wagon  standing  in  the  road,  without  any  team 
attached,  “and,  seeing  a wretched -looking  lad  nursing  a 
starving  baby,  asks  him  what  the  matter  may  be.  ‘ Wall, 
now,’  responds  the  youth,  ‘ guess  I’m  kinder  streakt.  Gle 
dad’s  drunk ; ole  mom’s  got  the  %-sterics ; brother  Jim  be 
playing  poker  with  two  gamblers ; sister  Sal’s  down  thar  a 
courtin’  of  a en-tire  stranger;  this  yere  baby’s  got  the  di- 
aree  the  wust  sort ; the  team’s  clean  guv  out ; the  wagon’s 
broke  down ; it’s  twenty  miles  to  the  next  water — I don’t 

care  a ef  I never  see  Californey.’  ” 

Another  illustration  will  suffice  to  establish  the  philo- 
sophical and  recuperative  nature  of  these  people : 

Governor  , of Territory,  was  questioned 

by  an  Eastern  friend  regarding  the  character  and  resources 
of  the  country  over  which  his  official  jurisdiction  extended. 
The  governor,  who  was  of  sanguine  temperament,  replied 
that  it  was  generally  regarded  as  possessing  advantages  over 


398 


BANNOCK  OR  BUST. 


almost  any  other  of  our  new  Territories  ; indeed,  he  said  he 
had  never  seen  or  heard  of  but  one  man  who  was  not  cap- 
tivated with  it,  and  that  individual  did  not  remain  long 
enough  to  thoroughly  appreciate  its  merits.  The  person 
he  alluded  to  was  bound  for  Bannock,  and  had  met  with  a 
good  many  accidents  upon  the  road,  such  as  losing  his  cat- 
tle, breaking  his  wagon,  and  in  various  other  ways,  which 
would  have  disheartened  most  men;  but  he  was  by  no 
means  discouraged,  and  pushed  forward  with  unabated  vigor 
until  he  lost  all  his  animals  except  one  ox  and  a small  cow. 
These,  as  a dernier  resort,  he  yoked  together,  and  they  con- 
stituted the  only  remaining  motive  power  for  his  wagon. 
Still  he  was  undaunted  in  his  purpose  to  accomplish  the 
journey  he  had  undertaken,  and,  as  an  evidence  of  this 
fact,  he  had,  with  a piece  of  charcoal,  written  in  large  char- 
acters upon  the  side  of  his  wagon,  “j Bannock  or  bust”  At 
length,  however,  the  severe  labor  proved  too  much  for  the 
poor  cow,  and  she  died ; and,  as  if  to  complete  the  catalogue 
of  hig  disasters,  his  only  remaining  animal  took  it  into  his 
head  to  stampede,  and  he  was  then  left  without  any  means 
of  transportation.  About  this  time  the  governor  was  pass- 
ing, and  observed  the  man  sitting  over  a small  fire  in  rather 
a disconsolate  mood,  but  apparently  endeavoring  to  keep 
up  his  spirits  by  whistling  “ Hail  Columbia !”  The  inscrip- 
tion upon  his  wagon,  however,  had  been  erased,  and  a new 
one  substituted  in  its  place,  as  follows — “Busted,  by  thun- 
der!” 


MOUNTAINEERS. 


399 


.CHAPTER  XIII. 

MOUNTAINEERS. 

Mountaineers. — Jim  Bridger.  — His  Troubles  with  the  “Danites.” — Sir 
George  Gore. — Tim  Goodale  and  Jim  Baker. — Bear  Eight. — Singular 
Duel. — Mariano. — Mr.  Clyburn. — His  Adventures  in  the  Mountains. — 
His  Return  to  the  Settlements. — Narrow  Escape  on  Rock  River. — Indian 
Law. 

Scattered  here  and  there  throughout  the  wilds  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  are  still  remaining  a few  of  those  semi- 
civilized  white  men  called  “ mountaineers,”  who  wandered 
from  their  homes  in  the  Border  States  early  in  life,  and  en- 
listed in  the  service  of  the  different  fur  companies.  Many 
of  these  peculiar  and  interesting  people  have  spent  the 
greater  portion  of  their  lives  and  grown  gray  in  the  rough 
and  adventurous  life  incident  to  their  occupations  as  hunt- 
ers and  trappers,  and  the  history  of  their  experiences  teems 
with  thrilling  incident  and  reckless  personal  adventure. 

At  the  time  the  American  and  Northwest  Fur  Companies 
were  at  the  height  of  their  prosperity,  and  when  beaver  fur 
was  worth  ten  dollars  a pound,  these  men  were  employed 
in  Montreal,  St.  Louis,  and  other  places  on  the  frontier  for 
a term  of  years,  and  from  the  time  they  left  the  settle- 
ments until  their  return  they  seldom  tasted  bread,  sugar, 
tea,  coffee,  or  vegetables.  Like  the  prairie  Indians,  almost 
their  only  subsistence  from  one  year’s  end  to  another  con- 
sisted of  fresh  meat,  and  even  this  was  only  supplied  by  the 
precarious  results  of  the  chase.  The  rifle  furnished  their 
entire  commissariat,  and,  as  a necessary  consequence  in  a 


400 


JIM  BRIDGES. 


locality  where  game  did  not  abound,  they  were  often  sub- 
jected to  great  suffering  from  hunger. 

Notwithstanding  the  privations  and  perils  to  which  these 
people  were  constantly  exposed,  and  the  slender  pecuniary 
profits  which  they  derived  from  their  avocations,  strange 
as  it  may  appear,  I have  yet  to  see  the  first  one  of  them 
who  did  not  become  fascinated  with  the  life,  and  it  is  sel- 
dom if  ever  they  can  be  prevailed  upon  to  abandon  it.  It 
seems  to  possess  for  them  a charm  of  excitement  and  ro- 
mance which  no  other  occupation  can  supply. 

I have  known  several  of  these  men  who  returned  to  the 
settlements  after  years  spent  in  the  Indian  country,  intend- 
ing to  abandon  their  roving  life ; but  they  soon  became 
restless  and  discontented,  and,  after  a brief  period,  went 
back  to  the  mountains  and  resumed  the  habits  of  the  trap- 
per. 

Among  these  people,  one  of  the  most  interesting  speci- 
mens it  has  been  my  fortune  to  meet  with,  and  one  who  oc- 
cupies an  exalted  position  among  his  confreres  as  a success- 
ful trapper  and  hunter,  and  who  has  no  superior  as  a relia- 
ble guide  and  bold  Indian  fighter,  is  the  well-known  veter- 
an mountaineer  Jim  Bridger , who  has  passed  the  major  por- 
tion of  his  solitary  life  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  far  re- 
moved from  all  intercourse  with  civilized  society. 

When  I first  met  him  at  Fort  Laramie  in  1857,  he  was  a 
man  about  sixty  years  of  age,  tall,  thin,  wiry,  and  with  a 
complexion  well  bronzed  by  toil  and  exposure,  with  an  in- 
dependent, generous,  and  open  cast  of  countenance  indica- 
tive of  brave  and  noble  impulses,  which  are  characteristics 
of  the  hunter  generally.  His  history,  pregnant  as  it  is 
with  scenes  of  startling  personal  incident,  interested  me  su- 
premely. 

Bridger  was  a native  of  the  “ Old  Dominion,”  and  had 
come  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  about  thirty -four 


JIM  BRIDGER. 


401 


years  before,  and  was  there  engaged  for  many  years  in 
trapping.  From  thence  he  wandered  south  into  California, 
and  ultimately  established  himself  upon  Black’s  Fork  of 
Green  Biver,  one  of  the  two  principal  tributaries  of  the 
Colorado  of  California.  Here  he  erected  an  establishment 
which  he  called  Fort  Bridger,  and  here  he  was  for  several 
years  prosecuting  a profitable  traffic  both  with  the  Indians 
and  with  California  emigrants.  At  length,  however,  his 
prosperity  excited  the  cupidity  of  the  Mormons,  and  they 
intimated  to  him  that  his  presence  in  such  close  proximity 
to  their  settlements  was  not  agreeable,  and  advised  him  to 
pull  up  stakes  and  leave  forthwith ; and  upon  his  question- 
ing the  legality  or  justice  of  this  arbitrary  summons,  they 
came  to  his  place  with  a force  of  “ avenging  angels,”  and 
forced  him  to  make  his  escape  to  the  woods  in  order  to 
save  his  life.  He  remained  secreted  for  several  days,  and, 
through  the  assistance  of  his  Indian  wife,  was  enabled  to 
elude  the  search  of  the  Danites , and  make  his  way  to  Fort 
Laramie,  leaving  all  his  cattle  and  other  property  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Mormons. 

From  Laramie  he,  for  the  first  time  in  thirty-one  years, 
returned  to  the  States,  and  laid  his  case  before  the  authori- 
ties at  Washington,  and  he  was  on  his  return  when  I met 
him.  As  may  be  imagined,  he  did  not  entertain  the  most 
friendly  feelings  for  the  “ Latter-day  Saints ,”  and  he  would 
not  probably  have  gone  very  far  out  of  his  way  to  have 
saved  their  sculps , as  he  termed  the  savages’  battle  trophy. 

Bridger  had  been  the  guide,  interpreter,  and  companion 
of  that  distinguished  Irish  sportsman,  Sir  George  Gore, 
whose  peculiar  tastes  led  him  in  1855  to  abandon  the  lux- 
urious life  of  Europe  and  bury  himself  for  over  two  years 
among  the  savages  in  the  wildest  and  most  unfrequented 
glens  of  the  Kocky  Mountains. 

The  outfit  and  adventures  of  this  titled  Nimrod,  conduct- 
2L* 


402 


SIR  GEORGE  GORE. 


ed  as  they  were  upon  a most  gigantic  scale,  probably  ex- 
ceeded any  thing  of  the  kind  ever  before  attempted  on  this 
continent,  and  the  results  of  his  exploits  will  compare  favor- 
ably with  the  performances  of  Gordon  Curnming  in  Africa. 

Some  conception  may  be  formed  of  the  magnitude  of  his 
equipment  when  it  is  stated  that  his  party  consisted  of 
about  fifty  persons,  comprising  secretaries,  steward,  cooks, 
fly-makers,  dog-tenders,  hunters,  servants,  etc.,  etc.  He  was 
provided  with  a train  of  thirty  wagons,  besides  numerous 
saddle-horses  and  dogs. 

I met  Sir  George  at  St.  Louis  soon  after  his  return  from 
the  mountains,  and  found  him  affable  and  communicative. 
He  related  to  me  several  of  his~  adventures  with  the  In- 
dians, and  showed  me  his  guns  of  various  descriptions  and 
calibres,  suited  to  the  destruction  of  all  kinds  of  game,  and 
upon  them  I observed  the  names  of  Joe  Manton,  Purdy, 
Westley  Richards,  and  other  celebrated  makers. 

He  informed  me  that  during  his  protracted  hunt  he  had 
slaughtered  the  enormous  aggregate  of  forty  grizzly  bears, 
twenty -five  hundred  buffaloes,  besides  numerous  elk,  deer, 
antelope,  and  other  small  game.  He  had  brought  back 
with  him  a host  of  trophies,  which  would  be  abundant 
vouchers  for  his  performances  on  his  return  home. 

Some  persons  will  probably  think  it  a very  strange  in- 
fatuation that  a nobleman  like  Sir  George,  possessing  an 
income  of  some  $200,000  per  annum,  should  voluntarily 
withdraw  from  all  society,  and  retire  to  the  wilderness 
among  savages  for  two  long  years,  exposed  to  all  the  perils 
and  privations  consequent  upon  such  a life ; but  I assure 
the  denizens  of  cities  that  he  required  no  sympathy  from 
them,  as  he  was  one  of  those  enthusiastic,  ardent  sportsmen 
who  derived  more  real  satisfaction  and  pleasure  from  one 
day’s  successful  hunting  than  can  possibly  be  imagined  by 
those  who  have  never  participated  in  this  exhilarating  and 


LITERATURE. 


403 


healthful  amusement.  Besides,  he  returned  home  with  a 
renovated  constitution,  good  health  and  spirits,  and  a new 
lease  of  perhaps  ten  years  to  his  life,  and,  finally,  he  had 
seen  something  of  life  out  of  the  ordinary  beaten  track  of 
the  great  mass  of  other  tourists. 

Bridger  often  spoke  to  me  about  Sir  George  Gore,  and 
always  commended  him  as  a bold,  dashing,  and  successful 
sportsman,  a social  companion,  and  an  agreeable  gentleman. 

Sir  George’s  habit  was  to  sleep  until  about  ten  or  eleven 
o’clock  in  the  morning,  when  he  took  his  bath,  ate  his 
breakfast,  and  set  out  generally  alone  for  the  day’s  hunt ; 
and  Bridger  says  it  was  not  unusual  for  him  to  remain  out 
until  ten  o’clock  at  night,  and  he  seldom  returned  to  camp 
without  augmenting  the  catalogue  of  his  exploits. 

His  dinner  was  then  ordered,  to  partake  of  which  he 
generally  extended  an  invitation  to  my  friend  Bridger, 
and  after  the  repast  was  concluded,  and  a few  glasses  of 
wine  had  been  drunk,  he  was  in  the  habit  of  reading  from 
some  book,  and  eliciting  from  Bridger  his  comments  there- 
on. His  favorite  author  was  Shakspeare,  which  Bridger 
“ reckon’d  was  a leetle  too  highfalutin  for  him more- 
over, he  remarked  that  he  “ rayther  calculated  that  thar  big 
Dutchman,  Mr.  Full-stuff ] was  a leetle  bit  too  fond  of  lager 
beer,”  and  suggested  that  probably  it  might  have  been  bet- 
ter for  the  old  man  if  he  had  imbibed  the  same  amount  of 
alcohol  in  the  more  condensed  medium  of  good  old  Bour- 
bon whisky. 

Bridger  seemed  deeply  interested  in  the  adventures  of 
Baron  Munchausen,  but  admitted,  after  the  reading  was 
finished,  that  “he  be  dogond  ef  he  swallered  every  thing 
that  thar  Baren  Mountchawson  said,  and  he  thout  he  was  a 
durn’d  liar.”  Yet,  upon  farther  reflection,  he  acknowledged 
that  some  of  his  own  experience  among  the  Blackfeet  would 
be  equally  marvelous,  “ ef  writ  down  in  a book.” 


404 


GOODALE  AND  BAKER. 


One  evening  Sir  George  entertained  his  auditor  by  read- 
ing to  him  Sir  Walter  Scott’s  account  of  the  battle  of  Wa- 
terloo, and  afterward  asked  him  if  he  did  not  regard  that  as 
the  most  sanguinary  battle  he  had  ever  heard  of.  To  which 
Bridger  replied,  “Wall,  now,  Mr.  Gore,  that  thar  must  ’a  bin 
a considdible  of  a skrimmage,  dogon  my  skin  ef  it  mustn’t ; 
them  Britishers  must  ’a  fit  better  thar  than  they  did  down 
to  Horleans,  whar  Old  Hickry  gin  um  the  forkedest  sort 
o’  chain-lightnin’  that  prehaps  you  ever  did  see  in  all  yer 
born  days !”  And  upon  Sir  George’s  expressing  a little  in- 
credulity in  regard  to  the  estimate  Bridger  placed  upon  this 
battle,  the  latter  added,  “You  can  jist  go  yer  pile  on  it,  Mr. 
Gore — you  can , as  sure  as  yer  born.” 

Two  veteran  mountaineers,  Tim  Goodale  and  Jim  Baker, 
accompanied  me  as  guides  when  I made  my  expedition  over 
the  Bocky  Mountains  from  Fort  Bridger  to  New  Mexico, 
during  the  winter  of  1857-8,  to  procure  supplies  for  our  lit- 
tle army  in  Utah,  and  I am  under  great  obligations  to  them 
for  the  valuable  assistance  they  rendered  me  in  overcoming 
the  formidable  obstacle  presented  by  the  deep  snows  we 
encountered  upon  the  lofty  summits  of  those  sierras,  and  I 
shall  never  cease  to  regard  them  with  the  liveliest  interest 
and  friendship.  Tim  Goodale  was  an  intelligent  man,  of 
fair  education,  and  had  traveled  across  the  continent  several 
times  to  California.  He  had  lived  for  many  years  among 
the  Indians,  and  had  trapped  beaver  upon  the  head  waters 
of  the  Missouri,  Columbia,  and  Colorado.  He  was  an  inti- 
mate friend  of  Kit  Carson,  and  they  had  often  spread  their 
blankets  together  in  their  mountain  bivouac. 

Baker  was  a man  of  more  limited  experience  and  educa- 
tion, but  a generous,  noble-hearted  specimen  of  the  trapper 
type,  who  would  peril  his  life  for  a friend  at  any  time,  or 
divide  his  last  morsel  of  food. 

He  was  born  in  Illinois,  and  lived  at  home  until  he  was 


GOODALE  AND  BAKER. 


405 


eighteen  years  of  age,  when  he  enlisted  in  the  American 
Fur  Company,  went  to  the  mountains,  and  had  remained 
there  ever  since.  He  had  married  a wife,  according  to  the 
Indian  custom,  from  the  Snake  tribe,  and  had  lived  with 
the  Indians  for  several  years,  adopting  many  of  their  hab- 
its, ideas,  and  superstitions.  He  firmly  believed  in  the  effi- 
cacy of  the  charms  and  incantations  of  the  “ medicine-men” 
in  curing  diseases  and  divining  where  their  enemy  was  to 
be  found,  predicting  the  results  of  war  expeditions,  etc. 
Unfortunately,  however,  for  my  friend  Jim,  he  would  oc- 
casionally allow  himself  to  take  a glass  of  whisky  beyond 
what  he  could  discreetly  carry,  and,  when  in  this  condition, 
would  sometimes  commit  faux  pas. 

When  I first  met  him,  I inquired  if  he  had  traveled  much 
over  the  settled  part  of  the  United  States  before  he  came 
out  into  the  mountains,  to  which  he  replied,  “ Right  smart, 
Cap.”  I then  asked  whether  he  had  visited  Hew  York. 
He  said  he  had  not.  “ Have  you  been  in  Hew  Orleans?” 
“ Ho,  I hasn’t  been  to  Horleans,  Cap.,  but  I’ll  tell  you  whar 
I have  been : I’ve  traveled  mighty  nigh  all  over  four  coun- 
ties in  the  State  of  Illinois  I”  and  this,  it  appeared,  was  the 
extent  of  his  wanderings  before  leaving  home. 

Jim  seemed  fond  of  his  squaw  and  children,  and  usually 
treated  them  very  kindly ; but  his  friend,  Tim  Goodale,  in- 
formed me  that,  upon  one  occasion,  when  he  had  taken  a 
drop  of  liquor  too  much,  he  came  into  his  lodge,  and  ex- 
pressed serious  doubts  regarding  the  faithfulness  of  his 
wife ; whereupon  Tim  assured  him  that  he  had  no  grounds 
for  his  suspicions,  and  endeavored  to  convince  him  of  his 
injustice,  but  without  success.  Jim  was  very  indignant, 
seized  his  hunting-knife,  and,  with  an  oath,  said,  “ I’ll  cut 
off  one  of  her  ears,  Tim and  it  was  with  great  difficulty 
that  his  friend  prevailed  upon  him  to  desist  from  carrying 
his  purpose  into  execution.  This  was  one  of  the  Indian 


406 


SKULPIjSTG  grizzlies. 


methods  of  punishing  a truant  spouse,  and  it  seemed  to  Jim 
the  most  appropriate  for  the  present  occasion. 

When  we  reached  the  settlements  in  New  Mexico,  after 
passing  over  the  mountains,  Baker  concluded  he  would,  for 
the  time  being,  cast  aside  his  leggins,  moccasins,  and  other 
mountain  gear,  and  adopt  a civilized  wardrobe ; according- 
ly, he  supplied  himself  with  a complete  outfit,  and  when  I 
met  him  shortly  afterward  -he  had  undergone  an  entire 
metamorphose.  I remarked  that  I should  hardly  have 
known  him,  so  great  was  the  change.  He  did  not  appear 
to  appreciate  the  compliment,  however,  and  said,  “ Con- 
found these  yere  store  butes,  Cap. ; they  choke  my  feet  like 
hell.”  It  was  the  first  time  in  twenty  years  that  he  had 
worn  any  thing  but  moccasins  upon  his  feet,  and  they  were 
not  prepared  for  the  severe  torture  inflicted  by  the  break- 
ing in  of  a pair  of  badly -fitting  new  boots.  He  soon  cast 
them  aside,  and  resumed  the  softer  foot-gear  of  the  mount- 
ains. 

Jim  Baker  had  been  in  at  the  death  of  many  a grizzly 
bear,  and  related  to  me  a number  of  thrilling  accounts  of 
his  encounters  with  this  formidable  quadruped.  On  one 
occasion,  while  he  was  setting  his  traps,  with  a companion, 
on  the  head  waters  of  Grand  River,  they  came  suddenly 
upon  two  young  grizzly  bears,  about  the  size  of  well-grown 
dogs.  He  remarked  to  his  friend  that  if  they  could  “pitch 
in  and  skulp  the  varmints  with  their  knives,”  it  would  be 
an  exploit  to  boast  of.  They  accordingly  laid  aside  their 
rifles  and  “went  in,”  Bridger  attacking  one  and  his  com- 
panion the  other.  He  says  the  bears  immediately  raised 
themselves  upon  their  haunches,  and  were  ready  for  the 
encounter.  He  ran  around,  endeavoring  to  get  an  oppor- 
tunity to  give  a blow  from  behind  with  his  long  knife ; but 
the  young  brute  was  too  quick  for  him,  and  turned  as  he 
passed  around  so  as  always  to  confront  him  face  to  face. 


- ' 

. 

' 


. 

. 


‘ 


JIM  BAKER  8 FIGHT. 


SKULPING  GRIZZLIES. 


409 


He  knew  if  he  came  within  reach  of  his  paws  that,  although 
young,  he  could  inflict  a formidable  blow;  moreover,  he 
felt  great  apprehensions  that  the  piteous  howls  set  up  by 
the  cubs  would  bring  the  infuriated  dam  to  their  rescue, 
when  their  chances  for  escape  would  be  small.  These 
thoughts  passing  rapidly  through  his  mind  made  him  ex- 
ceedingly nervous,  and  anxious  to  terminate  the  combat  as 
soon  as  possible.  He  made  many  desperate  lunges  at  the 
bear,  but  the  animal  invariably  warded  them  off  with  his 
fore  paws  like  a pugilist,  and  protected  his  body  at  the  ex- 
pense of  several  severe  cuts  upon  his  legs'.  This,  however, 
only  served  to  exasperate  him,  and  at  length  he  took  the 
offensive,  and,  with  his  mouth  frothing  with  rage,  he  bound- 
ed toward  Baker,  who  grappled  with  him  and  gave  him  a 
death-wound  under  the  ribs.  While  all  this  was  going  on 
his  companion  had  been  furiously  fighting  the  other  bear, 
and  by  this  time  had  become  greatly  exhausted,  and  the 
odds  were  turning  decidedly  against  him.  He  entreated 
Baker  to  come  to  his  assistance  at  once,  which  he  did ; but, 
much  to  his  astonishment,  as  soon  as  he  entered  the  second 
contest  his  companion  ran  off,  leaving  him  to  fight  the  bat- 
tle alone.  He  was,  however,  again  victorious,  and  soon  had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  his  two  antagonists  stretched  out 
lifeless  before  him;  but  he  firmly  resolved  never  again  to 
make  war  on  a bear  with  a hunting-knife,  saying  that  he 
would  “never  fight  narry  nother  grizzly  without  a good 
shootin-iron  in  his  paws.” 

Like  the  mountaineers  generally,  Baker  was  liberal  to  a 
fault,  and  eminently  improvident.  He  had  made  a great 
deal  of  money  in  trading  and  trapping,  but,  at  the  annual 
rendezvous  of  the  traders,  would  spend  the  earnings  of  a 
season  in  a few  days’ jollification.  He  told  me  that  during 
one  season  he  had  been  particularly  successful  in  accumu- 
lating a very  large  amount  of  furs,  from  which  he  realized 

2 M 


410 


NOVEL  DUEL. 


the  handsome  sum  of  about  nine  thousand  dollars,  and  he 
resolved  that  he  would  abandon  his  mountain  life,  return 
to  the  settlements,  purchase  a farm,  and  endeavor  to  live 
comfortably  for  the  remainder  of  his  days.  He  accordingly 
made  his  preparations  to  leave,  and  was  upon  the  point  of 
departure,  when  a friend  invited  him  to  visit  a monte  bank 
which  had  been  opened  in  camp.  He  was  easily  persuaded 
to  take  a little  social  parting  amusement  with  his  old 
friends,  whom  he  might  never  meet  again,  and  accepted  the 
invitation,  the  result  of  which  was  that  the  aguardiente  cir- 
culated freely,  and  tbe  following  morning  found  him  with- 
out a cent  of  money ; he  had  lost  every  thing.  His  entire 
plans  were  thus  frustrated,  and  he  returned  to  the  hunting- 
grounds  with  the  Indians,  where  he  had  remained  ever 
since. 

The  last  time  I saw  Jim  was  on  my  return  to  the  States 
from  Utah.  He  had  established  a little  store  at  the  cross- 
ing of  Green  Kiver,  and  had  for  some  time  been  doing  a 
fair  business  in  trafficking  with  the  emigrants  and  trading 
with  the  Indians ; but,  shortly  before  my  arrival,  a French- 
man had  made  his  appearance  there,  and  set  up  a rival  es- 
tablishment, which  divided  the  limited  trade,  and  very  ma- 
terially reduced  the  profits  of  Baker’s  business. 

This  engendered  a bitter  spirit  of  competition  and  hos- 
tility, which  soon  culminated  in  a cessation  of  all  social  in- 
tercourse between  them  ; and,  about  the  time  of  my  arrival, 
it  had  reached  such  a pitch  that  I found  Baker  standing  in 
his  door,  with  a pistol  loaded  and  cocked  in  each  hand, 
pretty  drunk  and  immensely  excited.  I dismounted,  and 
asked  him  the  cause  of  all  this  disturbance.  He  replied, 
“ That  thar  yaller-bellied,  toad-eatin  parly-voo  over  thar, 
and  me,  we’ve  been  havin  a small  chance  of  a skrimmage 
to-day,  we  have,  Cap.”  I remonstrated  with  him  upon  his 
folly,  but  he  continued : “ The  sneakin  polecat,  I’ll  raise 


MARIANO. 


4m 

his  har  yet.  I’ll  sculp  him,  Cap.,  ef  he  don’t  quit  these  yeare 
diggins.” 

It  appeared  that  they  had  an  altercation  in  the  morning, 
which  ended  in  a challenge,  when  they  ran  to  their  respect- 
ive cabins,  seized  their  revolvers,  and  from  the  doors,  that 
were  only  about  one  hundred  yards  apart,  fired  at  each 
other.  They  then  retired  into  the  cabins,  took  a drink  of 
whisky,  reloaded  their  pistols,  and  again  renewed  the  com- 
bat. This  peculiar  duel  had  been  kept  up  for  several  hours 
when  I arrived,  but,  fortunately  for  them,  the  whisky  had 
produced  such  an  effect  upon  their  nerves  that  their  aim 
was  very  unsteady,  and  none  of  their  many  shots  had  as 
yet  taken  effect. 

I took  away  Baker’s  pistols,  telling  him  that  I was  great- 
ly astonished  to  find  that  a man  of  his  usually  good  sense 
should  make  such  a fool,  of  himself.  He  submitted  quietly, 
saying  that  he  knew  I was  his  friend,  but  he  did  not  think 
I would  wish  to  have  him  take  insults  from  a cowardly 
Frenchman. 

The  following  morning  at  daylight  Jim  called  at  my 
camp  to  bid  me  good-by,  and  expressed  great  regret  at  what 
had  transpired  the  day  before.  He  said  this  was  the  first 
time  since  his  return  from  New  Mexico  that  he  had  allowed 
himself  to  drink  whisky,  and  when  the  whisky  was  in  him 
he  had  “ narry  sense.” 

Another  peculiar  specimen  of  the  mountaineer  genus 
who  accompanied  me  over  the  mountains  was  a half-breed 
Frenchman  and  Indian  by  the  name  of  Mariano.  He  had 
spent  all  his  life  among  the  Indians,  and  for  many  years 
had  been  in  the  service  of  the  American  and  Northwest  Fur 
Companies.  Besides  the  French,  Spanish,  and  English,  he 
spoke  the  languages  of  several  of  the  Indian  tribes  with 
whom  he  had  lived. 

He  was  an  intimate  friend  of  the  old  patriarch  mountain- 


£12 


MR.  CLYBURN. 


eer  Jack  Robinson,  and  when  I met  him  their  lodges  were 
pitched  in  the  same  valley. 

While  we  were  making  our  slow  progress  up  the  western 
slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  through  snow  from  three  to 
five  feet  deep,  at  the  rate  of  two  or  three  miles  a day,  I found 
Mariano’s  experience  in  the  high  northern  latitudes,  and 
the  ready  resources  which  he  always  had  at  hand  for  every 
emergency,  of  great  service  to  me. 

For  example,  he  found  a substitute  for  tea  in  the  wild 
mint  which  abounded  in  the  line  of  our  march,  and  a fair 
imitation  of  tobacco  was  supplied  by  the  inner  bark  of  the 
red  willow. 

Mariano’s  qualities  have  been  more  fully  shown  in  an- 
other part  of  the  book. 

While  traveling  in  Wisconsin  in  the  winter  of  1835, 1 fell 
in  with  a remarkably  interesting  apd  intelligent  man  by  the 
name  of  Clyburn,  who  accompanied  me  from  Sheboygan  to 
Green  Bay. 

At  that  early  period  in  the  settlement  of  this  now  dense- 
ly-populated  state  there  was  not  a house  between  the  two 
places  mentioned,  and  the  only  approximation  to  a road 
was  a narrow  Indian  trail,  without  a tree  cut  down  or  a 
bridge  made  upon  it. 

I found  Mr.  Clyburn  a very  pleasant  traveling  companion, 
and  he  very  kindly  whiled  away  the  monotony  of  our  long 
and  solitary  ride  through  that  dense  wilderness  by  relating 
to  me  several  thrilling  incidents  in  the  history  of  his  highly 
eventful  career.  As  his  character  for  honor  and  veracity 
are  fully  established,  and  will,  I dare  say,  be  vouched  for 
by  the  early  settlers  of  Milwaukee,  the  reader  may  rest  per- 
fectly assured  that  every  word  of  his  narrative  has  the  im- 
press of  reality  and  truth. 

He  informed  me  that  at  an  early  period  in  his  life  (some- 
where about  the  }^ear  1820  I think  it  was)  he  enlisted 


TRAPPING. 


413 


at  St.  Louis  to  serve  for  five  years  in  the  private  fur  enter- 
prise organized  by  General  Ashley,  and  with  this  company 
he  went  immediately  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri, 
where  he  followed  the  vocation  of  trapper  and  hunter  dur- 
ing the  entire  term  of  his  enlistment. 

It  was  the  practice  of  the  agents  in  charge  of  the  busi- 
ness at  that  time  to  establish  a grand  depot  for  the  deposit 
of  goods  and  the  reception  of  furs,  after  which  the  em- 
ployes were  sent  out  in  pairs  and  distributed  over  the  best 
trapping-grounds  throughout  the  mountains,  each  two  men 
having  a certain  district  of  country  assigned  to  them  for 
the  season. 

Mr.  Clyburn  and  a companion  were  at  one  time  assigned 
to  a district  within  the  country  frequented  by  the  Blackfeet 
Indians,  who  had  always  manifested  a most  implacable 
spirit  of  hostility  to  the  whites,  and  made  war  upon  them 
whenever  they  met. 

The  two  companions,  however,  exercised  the  greatest 
possible  precaution  in  carrying  on  their  trapping  opera- 
tions, setting  and  visiting  their  traps  only  at  early  dawn 
and  late  in  the  evening,  and  lying  concealed  in  some  soli- 
tary mountain  glen  during  the  daytime.  Thus  they  con- 
tinued their  business  during  the  entire  season  without 
having  been  at  all  molested  by  their  Indian  enemies,  and 
they  were  richly  rewarded  for  their  labors  by  unusual  suc- 
cess. They  had  accumulated  a large  amount  of  valuable 
furs,  which  they  packed  upon  their  horses,  and  started  to 
return  to  the  depot  with  them.  After  traveling  a short 
distance,  they  determined  to  cross  a stream  which  lay  in 
their  route,  and  had  already  entered  a grove  of  timber  that 
covered  the  bottom  lands,  when  all  at  once,  to  their  perfect 
amazement  and  horror,  they  emerged  directly  into  a huge 
encampment  of  Blackfeet  Indians.  Mr.  Clyburn,  who  was, 
under  all  circumstances,  cool  and  self-possessed,  motioned 

2 M* 


414 


BLACKFEET  HOSPITALITY. 


to  his  companion  to  follow  him,  and  rode  directly  up  to  the 
chief’s  lodge,  telling  him  by  signs  that  they  were  friends, 
had  come  into  his  camp  to  pass  the  night,  and  claimed  his 
protection,  thinking  that  this  appeal  to  his  hospitality,  one 
of  the  most  prominent  of  the  savages’  virtues  (if  they  pos- 
sess any  traits  of  character  that  are  worthy  that  appella- 
tion), might  touch  his  pride,  and  possibly  induce  him  to 
spare  their  lives.  The  chief  received  them  very  coldly, 
told  them  to  dismount  and  sit  down,  and  ordered  some  of 
his  wives  to  unpack  their  horses  and  give  them  supper. 
He  then  required  them  to  give  an  account  of  themselves, 
and  imperiously  demanded  to  know  how  they  dare  pre- 
sume to  intrude  upon  his  hunting-grounds,  to  all  of  which 
they  gave  the  most  discreet  replies  they  could  invent  upon 
the  spur  of  the  occasion ; but  the  chief  was  evidently  very 
far  from  being  satisfied  or  kindly  disposed  toward  them. 
The  squaws  set  some  buffalo  meat  before  them,  and  .their 
savage  host  in  a very  surly  and  dictatorial  manner  told 
them  “to  eat but,  although  they  had  been  traveling  a long 
time,  and,  under  ordinary  circumstances,  would'  have  done 
ample  justice  to  the  fare,  yet  their  surroundings  upon  the 
present  occasion  were  of  such  a character  as  almost  entirely 
to  take  away  their  appetites.  They,  however,  in  order  to 
do  away  with  any  exhibition  of  alarm  on  their  part,  forced 
themselves  to  swallow  some  of  the  meat,  then  lit  their  pipes 
and  commenced  smoking.  Shortly  after  this,  Clyburn,  who 
understood  a little  of  the  Blackfeet  language,  overheard  the 
chief  tell  some  of  his  warriors  that  he  and  his  companion 
must  be  put  to  death.  Now  the  encampment  was  situated 
directly  upon  the  river  bank,  and  the  chief’s  lodge  where 
they  were  seated  was  about  a hundred,  yards  distant.  As 
soon  as  Clyburn  learned  the  fate  which  the  Indians  had  in 
store  for  them,  he  immediately  resolved  upon  the  course  he 
should  pursue,  and  very  quietly,  in  a low  tone  of  voice,  in- 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


415 


formed  his  friend  what  he  had  overheard,  at  the  same  time 
directing  him,  as  the  only  chance  for  saving  their  lives,  to 
keep  constant  watch  upon  his  own  movements,  and  to  do 
precisely  as  he  did.  He  waited  until  nearly  dark,  when  he 
found  an  opportunity  at  a time  the  Indians  seemed  off  their 
guard,  and  had  their  eyes  turned  in  another  direction,  to 
spring  to  his  feet,  and  with  lightning  speed  to  run  rapidly 
toward  the  river.  His  friend  followed,  but  the  Indians  in- 
stantly gave  the  war-cry,  and,  seizing  their  arms,  pursued 
them  closely,  firing  many  balls  and  arrows,  some  of  which 
passed  in  most  disagreeable  proximity  to  his  person.  He, 
however,  had  the  good  fortune  to  reach  the  river,  and 
jumped  in,  diving  deeply,  and  striking  out  with  desperate 
strides  for  the  opposite  shore,  which  he  reached  in  safety, 
and  hid  himself  under  the  shelving  bank.  Here  he  awaited 
in  great  anxiety  for  some  time,  until  the  Indians  had  given 
up  the  search  and  returned  to  their  camps,  when  he  crawled 
out  and  endeavored  to  get  some  trace  of  his  friend,  but 
none  was  found,  and  he  was  never  heard  of  afterward,  so 
that  he  must  have  been  murdered  by  the  savages. 

My  friend  Clyburn  was  now  reduced  to  first  principles. 
He  had  lost  all  his  horses,  guns,  and  traps,  besides  the  pro- 
ceeds of  a year’s  labor.  Indeed,  he  now  found  himself  to- 
tally destitute  of  every  thing  except  the  clothes  upon  his 
back.  He  was  very  far  from  being  discouraged,  however, 
and  started  at  once  for  the  rendezvous,  where  he  arrived  a 
few  days  afterward,  and,  providing  himself  with  another 
outfit  and  companion,  he  returned  to  the  trapping-grounds 
with  as  good  a heart  as  ever.  This  kind  of  life  he  pursued 
until  the  expiration  of  his  term  of  service,  when,  unlike  the 
most  of  the  mountaineers,  he  resolved  to  go  back  to  his 
home,  and  for  the  future  lead  a civilized  life.  Accord- 
ingly, after  bidding  adieu  to  his  friends,  he  embarked  in 
one  of  the  fleet  of  Mackinaw  boats  which  were  annuallv 


START  FOR  HOME. 


416 

sent  by  the  company  with  their  furs  down  the  Missouri 
River  to  St.  Louis.  In  the  course  of  their  trip  they  arrived 
at  the  upper  end  of  a narrow  peninsula,  made  by  a very 
long  detour  in  the  river,  which  rendered  it  necessary  for 
the  boats  to  pass  many  miles  around,  while  the  distance 
across  the  neck  of  the  peninsula  was  comparatively  very 
short.  Thinking  that  perhaps  he  might  find  game  here,  he 
obtained  permission  from  the  man  in  charge  of  his  boat  to 
go  ashore  and  take  a hunt  while  the  fleet  was  making  the 
passage  around  the  bend,  expecting  to  re-embark  at  the 
lower  extremity.  He  accordingly  passed  several  hours  in 
hunting,  without  giving  much  heed  to  time,  believing  that 
he  could  easily  reach  the  designated  point  before  the  ar- 
rival of  the  boats.  On  reaching  the  river  bank,  he  seated 
himself  and  quietly  awaited  their  coming,  but  he  remained 
here  one,  two,  and  three  hours  without  seeing  them. 

Thinking  that  possibly  they  might  have  been  delayed 
from  some  cause  or  other,  he  did  not  yet  feel  at  all  alarmed, 
but  after  remaining  here  hour  after  hour  in  anxious  expec- 
tation until  night,  he  began  to  think  that  the  fleet  must  have 
passed  before  he  arrived,  and  that  he  was  left  alone  in  the 
wilderness.  He  knew  full  well  that  the  life  of  a trapper 
was  of  but  little  moment  in  the  estimation  of  those  in  charge 
of  the  boats  when  put  in  comparison  with  the  importance 
of  securing  a speedy  transit  for  a year’s  accumulation  of  the 
company’s  furs,  and  he  was  also  perfectly  conscious  of  the 
fact  that  he  had  no  reason  to  expect  that  they  would  make 
any  halt  on  his  account. 

He,  however,  still  clung  to  the  hope  that  the  boats  might 
yet  be  above  him,  and,  after  making  a fire,  took  his  station 
upon  the  bank  to  await  their  coming ; but  the  night  passed 
and  no  boats  appeared,  and  he  was  now  reluctantly  com- 
pelled to  abandon  all  hopes  of  ever  seeing  them  again.  He 
possessed  a very  good  general  knowledge  of  the  country, 


SOLITARY  JOURNEY. 


417 


and,  as  near  as  he  could  calculate,  he  was  at  this  point  about 
a thousand  miles  from  the  fort  at  Council  Bluffs,  the  nearest 
place  where  ha  could  expect  to  reach  a white  man’s  habita- 
tion. He  had  his  rifle,  with  eight  charges  of  powder  and 
ball,  and  with  these  he  must  provide  himself  with  subsist- 
ence during  the  long  and  solitary  journey  before  him,  or 
perish  in  the  attempt.  It  was  a most  appalling  and  des- 
perate alternative,  yet  he  was  not  to  be  discouraged  by  tri- 
fles, and  he  at  once  set  about  making  his  preparations  for 
departure. 

He  struck  out  from  the  river  bottom  upon  the  prairies, 
and  took  his  course  for  Council  Bluffs,  traveling  day  after 
day  and  night  after  night,  and  he  says  that,  for  several  days 
and  nights  after  he  set  out,  he  was  under  such  a fearful  state 
of  anxiety  in  regard  to  his  situation  that  he  could  neither 
sleep  nor  eat.  He  husbanded  his  ammunition  with  great 
care,  only  expending  a charge  when  he  became  very  hun- 
gry and  was  sure  of  his  game.  He  would  then  eat  all  he 
could  upon  the  spot,  and  carry  with  him  the  remainder. 
In  this  manner  he  continued  on  until  he  wore  out  his  moc- 
casins and  leggins,  when  the  sharp  prairie  grass  cut  his 
feet  and  legs  so  badly  that  he  suffered  intense  pain  there- 
from. 

Days  and  weeks  passed  by,  his  eyes  eagerly  sweeping  the 
field  of  vision  in  all  directions.  Hot  a solitary  human  be- 
ing made  his  appearance  during  the  whole  time.  ‘ At  length, 
after  expending  all  his  ammunition  and  consuming  his  last 
morsel  of  meat,  he  became  greatly  famished,  and  the  only 
nutriment  he  now  had  was  derived  from  a few  grasshoppers 
and  spiders  which  he  met  with  in  his  track ; but  these  were 
very  far  from  satisfying  the  cravings  of  his  voracious  appe- 
tite. He  continued  to  press  forward  as  long  as  he  had  a 
particle  of  strength  remaining,  hoping  every  moment  to  see 
some  evidences  of  proximity  to  the  fort,  but  on  every  side 


418 


GREAT  SUFFERING. 


of  him  was  nothing  but  one  vast  expanse  of  dreary,  deso- 
late prairie  solitude ; and,  finally,  he  became  so  much  ex- 
hausted and  so  lame  that  he  could  go  no  farther,  and  was 
forced  to  the  conclusion  that  he  must  die  upon  the  prairie. 
The  dread  anticipation  of  such  a death,  in  his  enfeebled  and 
famished  state,  induced  a condition  of  mind  bordering  upon 
insanity,  and,  to  add  to  his  torture,  the  wolves  now  began 
to  mark  him  as  their  victim,  and  followed  on  his  track  for 
several  days,  lapping  the  blood  which  dropped  upon  the 
grass  from  his  lacerated  feet  and  legs. 

In  his  delirious  moments  he  would  imagine  himself  raised 
from  the  earth,  and  carried  with  giant  strides  through  the 
air.  The  wolves  seemed  to  be  transformed  into  savage 
Blackfeet  warriors,  who  were  bent  upon  his  destruction, 
and  he  underwent  all  the  mental  torture  their  actual  pres- 
ence would  have  produced.  Still  he  staggered  on,  until 
exhausted  nature  entirely  gave  way,  and  he  sank  down 
upon  the  ground,  expecting  never  to  rise  again. 

He  fell  into  a most  profound  sleep,  which  he  thinks  must 
have  continued  many  hours,  and  when  he  awoke,  to  his  as- 
tonishment, he  felt  very  much  refreshed.  His  mental  ab- 
erration had  left  him ; but  it  was  with  the  greatest  diffi- 
culty that  he  succeeded,  after  several  efforts,  in  rising  to  his 
feet  and  slowly  resuming  his  painful  journey.  His  iron 
will  and  indomitable  firmness  of  purpose,  however,  aided 
by  a powerful  physique,  enabled  him  to  conquer  obstacles 
which  would  have  disheartened  most  men  at  the  outset,  and 
he  again  pushed  forward  with  renewed  vigor  toward  the 
fort.  He  traveled  on  without  any  sustenance  until  at  length 
he  became  weary  and  exhausted  again,  and  once  more  sank 
down  powerless  upon  the  ground,  and  he  now  abandoned 
all  thoughts  of  ever  rising  again.  He  expected  to  die  there, 
and  consigned  his  soul  to  his  Maker.  Yet  another  deep 
sleep  soon  came  over  him,  on  awaking  from  which  he  again 


ARRIVAL  AT  COUNCIL  BLUFFS. 


419 


felt  somewhat  refreshed,  and  endeavored  to  rise  to  his  feet, 
but  found  himself  unable  to  do  so.  At  this  time  he  was 
near  the  summit  of  a hill,  and  he  thought  if  he  could  reach 
the  crest  he  might  perhaps  be  able  to  discover  something 
that  would  afford  him  relief.  Accordingly,  he  put  forth  all 
his  remaining  powers,  and,  with  the  utmost  difficulty,  suc- 
ceeded in  crawling  upon  his  hands  and  knees  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  elevation,  which  proved  to  be  a bluff  bordering 
the  Missouri  Valley;  and  who  can  conceive  of  his  joy  and 
astonishment  when,  on  raising  his  eyes,  he  beheld,  directly 
in  front  of  him,  and  only  about  half  a mile  distant,  the  flag 
waving  from  the  fort  at  Council  Bluffs?  His  feelings  on 
beholding  this  welcome  haven  may  be  more  easily  imag- 
ined than  described.  He  was  like  a man  who  has  been 
brought  from  death  unto  life ; and  the  consciousness  of  his 
safety,  after  the  horrible  state  of  mental  anxiety  and  torture 
to  which  he  had  been  subjected  for  weeks,  overwhelmed 
him  with  the  most  intense  and  heartfelt  emotions  of  joy 
and  gratitude.  He  prostrated  himself  upon  the  earth,  and 
gave  vent  to  his  feelings  by  weeping  for  a long  time,  and 
then  offered  up  sincere  thanks  to  the  Almighty  for  his  de- 
liverance. 

In  the  course  of  a few  hours  he  was  enabled  to  crawl  to- 
ward the  fort,  where  he  was  kindly  received  by  the  officers, 
and  nursed  for  several  weeks  before  he  was  sufficiently  re- 
stored to  resume  his  homeward  journey. 

After  all  the  scenes  of  danger,  privation,  and  suffering 
through  which  Mr.  Clyburn  had  passed,  he  was  delighted 
to  revisit  once  more  the  home  of  his  childhood,  and  he  con- 
fidently anticipated  that  the  remainder  of  his  days  would 
pass  in  peace  and  quietness ; but  in  this  he  was  greatly  mis- 
taken, as  the  following  narrative  will  show. 

He  had,  in  1834,  taken  up  his  abode  among  the  first  set- 
tlers at  Milwaukee;  but  the  population  soon  increased  to 


420 


POTAW  ATOMIES. 


such  an  extent  that  the  place  became  too  crowded  to  suit 
him,  and  he  was  desirous  of  purchasing  a farm  in  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  Rock  River;  and,  as  the  government  was 
about  bringing  those  lands  into  market,  he,  with  a friend, 
set  out  upon  an.  expedition  to  explore  that  region,  and  make 
selections  of  lands.  They  engaged  a man  to  transport  their 
luggage  to  the  bank  of  Rock  River,  where  they  cut  down 
a tree  and  constructed  a “ dug-out ” (canoe),  in  which  they 
embarked,  and  started  on  their  voyage  down  the  river. 

As  night  approached  they  arrived  at  an  old  Kickapoo 
village,  which  was  then  abandoned.  It  was  raining  at  the 
time,  and  as  the  bark  lodges  offered  good  shelter,  they  de- 
termined to  take  up  lodgings  for  the  night  in  one  of  them. 
Accordingly  they  made  a landing,  and  commenced  carry- 
ing their  baggage  ashore,  and  the  transfer  was  nearly  com- 
pleted, when,  as  Clyburn  went  into  the  lodge,  and  was  in  the 
act  of  striking  a light,  he  heard  his  companion  give  the 
Indian  salutation  of  “ boo-joo ” to  some  person  outside.  On 
going  out  he  met  two  Indians,  an  old  and  a young  man. 
They  shook  hands  with  him,  apparently  in  a friendly  man- 
ner, and  informed  him  that  they  were  Potawatomies.  Rem- 
nants of  this  tribe,  as  well  as  of  the  Kickapoos,  Chippeways, 
and  Winnebagoes,  then  ranged  over  that  section  of  country, 
but  they  were  supposed  to  be  perfectly  peaceable  and  well- 
disposed  toward  the  whites. 

As  soon  as  he  had  passed  a few  words  with  the  Indians, 
Clyburn  told  his  friend  to  kindle  a fire  in  the  lodge,  while 
he  would  go  out  and  collect  some  wood  for  the  night.  He 
went  out,  picked  up  an  armful  of  wood,  and  was  returning, 
when  suddenly  he  heard  a rifle-shot  in  the  lodge,  and,  at 
the  same  moment,  a cry  of.  distress  from  his  companion, 
and  instantly  afterward  the  two  Indians  bounded  out  of 
the  lodge  and  fired  a shot  at  him,  which  broke  his  arm. 
He  dropped  the  wood  and  ran  at  the  top  of  his  speed  into 


FIRST  COURT  AT  MILWAUKEE. 


421 


the  woods,  with  the  Indians  after  him  in  eager  pursuit. 
Fortunately  for  him,  it  was  now  night,  and,  under  cover  of 
the  darkness,  he  was  enabled  to  elude  the  search  of  his  sav- 
age pursuers.  He  concealed  himself  under  a log,  and  heard 
them  prowling  about  near  him  for  some  time;  but  they 
finally  gave  up  the  search  and  went  away.  He  then,  with 
great  difficulty,  managed  to  bind  up  his  shattered  arm  with 
his  handkerchief,  and  started  back  toward  Milwaukee.  It 
was  raining  very  hard  during  all  the  night  (I  remember  it 
well,  as  I myself  bivouacked  in  the  woods  near  Sheboygan 
on  the  same  night),  and  Mr.  Clyburn  soon  became  exhaust- 
ed from  the  loss  of  blood,  and  very  wet  and  cold.  He  at- 
tempted to  strike  a fire,  but,  in  consequence  of  his  broken 
arm,  was  unable  to  hold  the  flint  and  punk.  He  continued 
on,  however,  and  the  next  day  (I  think  it  was)  had  the  sat- 
isfaction of  reaching  his  home  at  Milwaukee. 

A note  was  immediately  dispatched  to  Fort  Dearborn, 
Chicago,  the  nearest  military  post,  and  an  officer,  Captain 
Baxley,  with  a suitable  force,  was  sent  out  to  apprehend 
the  perpetrators  of  the  deed.  They  found  the  body  of  the 
murdered  man,  and  arrested  several  Indians  whom  they 
discovered  near  the  locality.  These  were  taken  to  Fort 
Howard,  Green  Bay,  where  I was  then  stationed,  and  placed 
in  close  confinement  until  they  could  be  confronted  by  Mr. 
Clyburn,  who  was  laid  up  for  several  weeks  with  his  wound, 
and  had  just  recovered  sufficiently  to  travel  when  I met 
him  at  Sheboygan.  Although  he  had  only  seen  the  two  In- 
dians concerned  in  the  murder  for  a moment,  yet,  on  his  ar- 
rival at  Fort  Howard,  he  recognized  them  again  instantly 
among  a dozen  others. 

The  Indians  then  acknowledged  themselves  to  have  been 
the  guilty  parties,  and  were  tried  for  murder  before  the 
first  court  ever  held  at  Milwaukee.  They  were  convicted, 
the  old  man  sentenced  to  be  hung,  and  his  son  to  imprison- 

2 N 


422 


.INDIAN  LAW. 


ment  for  life.  I was  myself  a witness  upon  the  trial,  hay- 
ing heard  the  confession  of  the  Indians  at  Green  Bay. 

The  sentences  of  these  Indians,  owing,  I believe,  to  some 
flaw  in  the  proceedings,  were  not  executed.  The  stoical 
imperturbability  of  the  savage  character  was  strikingly 
illustrated  when  they  received  the  information  of  the  re- 
sult. 

The  sheriff  called  the  old  man  out  of  his  cell  and  asked 
him  if  he  was  aware  that  the  day  appointed  for  his  execu- 
tion had  arrived.  He,  without  changing  the  expression  of 
his  countenance  in  the  least,  replied  that  he  did  not  think 
the  time  was  so  near  at  hand,  but  that  he  was  ready,  and, 
shaking  hands  with  us,  bade  us  good-by.  The  sheriff  then 
told  him  that  he  was  not  to  be  executed,  and  was  free  to  go 
where  he  pleased,  all  of  which  he  received  with  apparently 
perfect  indifference. 

The  reason  assigned  by  these  Indians  for  committing  the 
murder  was  that  a relative  of  the  old  man’s  wife  had  been 
killed  by  a sentinel  at  Fort  Winnebago,  and  she,  with  the 
instincts  of  her  race,  gave  the  old  man  no  peace  until  he 
had  assuaged  her  thirst  for  revenge  with  the  blood  of  a 
white  man.  One  of  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  the  In- 
dians is  that  they  never  make  allowances  for  accidents.  If 
a man,  for  example,  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a gun, 
happens  to  kill  one  of  their  people,  they  hold  him  just  as 
much  responsible  for  the  result  as  if  he  committed  a will- 
ful act  of  murder.  Their  legal  code  makes  no  distinction 
between  justifiable  homicide  and  murder  in  the  first  degree. 

While  I was  at  Green  Bay,  a Frenchman,  who  was  hunt- 
ing deer  in  the  night  with  a torch-light,  seeing  before  his 
canoe  two  eyes  glistening  like  those  of  a deer,  immediately 
raised  his  rifle  and  fired.  He  was,  however,  horrified,  on 
approaching  the  object,  to  find  that,  instead  of  a deer,  he  had 
shot  an  Indian  directly  through  the  brain.  He  recognized 


FIRE  - HUNTING. 


423 


the  man,  and,  taking  the  body  in  his  canoe,  carried  it  to  the 
lodge  of  his  brother,  to  whom  he  related  all  the  circum- 
stances, expressing  great  regret  at  what  had  happened. 
The  Indian,  instead  of  pardoning  him,  seized  his  rifle,  and 
killed  the  Frenchman  upon  the  spot. 


424 


COON  STORY. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

CAPTAIN  MARTIN  SCOTT. 

Captain  Martin  Scott.— The  Coon  Story.— The  Bear-hunter.— The  Horse- 
race.— Courting  Days. — Rifle  and  Pistol  Shooting. — His  Duel. — Expedi- 
tion with  Explorers. — Hunting  in  Texas.— Wonderful  Dog. — “Tally 
Ho  !” — Return  Home  to  Bennington. — His  Death. 

"When  I first  joined  my  regiment  (the  5th  United  States 
Infantry)  at  Fort  Howard,  Green  Bay,  in  the  spring  of  1833, 
I was  assigned  to  “ D”  Company,  then  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Martin  Scott,  of  coon  notoriety. 

The  coon  story  has  been  so  often  related  that  it  is  prob- 
ably familiar  to  many ; but  as  some  may  not  have  heard  it, 
and  as  I shall  have  a good  deal  to  say  about  Captain  Scott, 
whose  peculiar  reputation  it  aptly  illustrates,  it  may  not  be 
amiss  to  give  a brief  repetition  of  it  here. 

The  story,  as  I understand,  first  appeared  in  a newspaper 
published  in  Utica,  New  York,  in  1840,  and  the  purport  of 
it  was  something  like  the  following:  Captain  Scott,  with 
several  friends,  were  supposed  to  have  been  hunting  in  the 
woods,  and  had  become  separated.  As  they  were  passing 
along,  one  of  them  discovered  a raccoon  sitting  upon  the 
highest  limb  of  one  of  the  tallest  trees,  and  fired  at  him, 
but  missed  the  object  and  went  on.  Soon  another  of  the 
party  made  his  appearance  and  delivered  a shot,  but  with 
the  same  result ; and  after  this,  several  others  took  shots  at 
him,  but  all  were  equally  unsuccessful ; the  coon  was  not 
harmed.  After  a while,  however,  Captain  Scott  passed  that 


YOUNG  BEAR-HUNTER. 


425 


way,  and,  seeing  the  raccoon,  drew  up  his  rifle,  and  was  in 
the  act  of  pulling  trigger,  when  the  coon  said  to  him, “ Who 
are  you  ?”  He  replied,  “ My  name  is  Scott.”  “ What 
Scott?”  inquired  the  coon.  “Why,  Captain  Scott.”  “Are 
you  Captain  Martin  Scott?”  said  the  coon.  “The  same,” 
was  the  answer.  “ Then,”  said  the  coon,  “ you  need  not 
shoot ; I’ll  come  down.” 

This  officer  had  served  for  many  years  at  our  most  re- 
mote frontier  posts,  and  he  had  always  borne  the  reputa- 
tion of  having  been  the  best  shot  of  his  day.  His  ambition 
consisted  in  owning  the  best  horses,  dogs,  and  guns,  and  he 
was  a thorough  sportsman  and  hunter,  besides  being  a faith- 
ful and  gallant  soldier.  * 

At  an  early  day,  when  he  was  a boy  only  twelve  years 
of  age,  living  at  his  home  in  Bennington, Vermont,  a bear 
made  his  appearance  in  that  neighborhood,  committing 
great  havoc  among  the  farmers’  sheep,  and  creating  much 
alarm  among  the  timid  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding 
country. 

So  great  was  the  excitement  produced  by  the  advent  of 
this  savage  intruder  that  the  people  of  several  towns  turned 
out  in  mass  to  hunt  him  down.  They  organized  into  par- 
ties to  scour  all  the  adjacent  mountains  and  woodlands  on 
a certain  day,  and  were  to  assemble  at  the  hotel  in  Ben- 
nington after  the  day’s  hunt  was  over. 

Now  our  young  hero  felt  an  earnest  desire  to  participate 
in  this  exciting  sport,  but  he  was  perfectly  well  aware  that 
his  father  would  not  give  his  consent  to  such  a proposal  if 
it  was  suggested  to  him.  He  therefore  very  quietly  got 
up  before  daylight  on  the  appointed  day,  took  an  old 
smooth-bored  gun  of  his  father’s,  loaded  it,  and  started  out 
alone  into  the  mountain  where  the  bear  was  last  heard 
from.  He  wandered  about  nearly  all  day,  but  without  dis- 
covering any  signs  of  the  animal,  and  at  length  turned  to- 

2 N* 


426 


BEAR  KILLED. 


ward  home;  and,  as  he  was  descending  the  mountain,  he 
came  to  a shelving  rock,  and  was  just  in  the  act  of  passing 
over  it,  when  suddenly  he  came  upon  the  bear  lying  appar- 
ently asleep  just  beneath  where  he  stood.  He  at  once 
raised  the  gun  to  his  shoulder  and  fired,  and  he  fortunately 
lodged  its  contents  in  the  vitals  of  the  beast,  killing  him  in- 
stantly. He  then  started  for  the  tavern,  where  many  of 
the  hunters  had  already  congregated,  and  were  relating  to 
each  other  the  history  of  the  day’s  experience.  He  told 
them  that  he  had  killed  the  bear,  but  they  did  not  believe 
it  possible,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  he  finally 
persuaded  some  of  the  men  to  go  with  him  to  verify  his 
statement.  When  they  reached  the  place  where  the  ani- 
mal lay,  they  were  amazed  that  so  small  a lad  should  have 
had  the  temerity  to  attack  such  a monster.  He  was  a huge 
fellow,  and  they  were  obliged  to  construct  a stout  litter  to 
carry  him  into  town.  When  they  arrived  at  the  entrance 
of  the  village  they  mounted  Martin  upon  the  top  of  the 
bear,  and  thus  carried  him  in  triumph  through  the  street; 
and  on  passing  his  father’s  house,  the  old  gentleman  came 
out,  and,  in  a very  abrupt  manner,  said,  “ Come  down  from 
there;  what  are  you  doing  up  there,  sir?”  The  men  re- 
plied, “Let  the  boy  alone,  for  he  has  killed  the  bear;”  and 
thus  they  went  on  to  the  tavern,  where  they  celebrated  the 
event  with  great  feasting  and  rejoicing.  After  this  they 
dubbed  Martin  the  Bear-hunter,  and  he  has  often  said  to  me 
that  this  was  the  happiest  day  of  his  life. 

Like  other  boys,  young  Scott  was  very  fond  of  visiting 
places  of  amusement,  such  as  horse-races,  trainings,  town 
meetings,  etc.,  and,  as  he  was  a good  rider,  he  was  some- 
times selected  to  ride  races  by  the  sporting  fraternity  of 
that  section. 

In  those  days  (before  the  time  of  horse-fairs)  horse-racing 
was  looked  upon  by  the  New  Englanders  as  a most  im- 


DEACON  ROBINSON. 


427 


moral  and  pernicious  practice,  and  young  Scott  was  never 
allowed  to  make  his  appearance  at  such  places  with  his  fa- 
ther’s consent. 

Upon  one  occasion,  an  unknown  horse  was  brought  to 
Bennington  by  some  sportsmen,  who  offered  large  wagers 
upon  his  running  against  any  other  horse  that  could  be 

produced.  Now  a certain  Deacon  R , of  that  place, 

was  the  owner  of  several  fine  horses,  and  among  them  was 
one  that  was  considered  very  fleet,  but  those  disposed  to 
contest  the  wager  so  confidently  offered  on  the  strange 
horse  were  perfectly  well  aware  that  a Presbyterian  deacon 
could  not  openly  sanction  and  give  countenance  to  such 
diabolical  immorality ; yet  those  who  knew  him  well  verily 
believed  if  there  was  any  one  trait  in  the  deacon’s  character 
that  was  not  in  strict  accordance  with  the  requirements  of 
his  church  and  with  the  sanctity  of  his  ecclesiastical  func- 
tions, it  was  the  weakness  he  manifested  for  owning  the 
fleetest  horse  in  the  country. 

The  men  proposing  to  take  up  the  gauntlet  so  defiantly 
thrown  out  by  the  backers  of  the  new  horse  entered  the 
deacon’s  favorite  horse  for  the  race,  but  with  the  express 
stipulation  that  the  race  should  come  off  in  the  night-time, 
and  should  be  kept  a profound  secret  except  to  those  di- 
rectly interested.  The  terms  having  been  satisfactorily 
arranged,  Martin  Scott  was  selected  as  the  jockey  for  the 
deacon’s  horse ; and  on  the  night  designated  for  the  con- 
test, he  stole  very  quietly  into  the  stable,  and,  muffling  the 
horse’s  feet,  led  him  out  and  took  him  to  the  race-track. 
The  judges  were  then  posted,  the  riders  mounted,  and  the 
horses  were  off.  It  was  a single  straight  dash  of  a mile, 
and  both  horses  were  put  to  their  speed,  and  kept  constant- 
ly down  to  their  work  from  the  word  “ go.”  But,  as  they 
approached  the  “coming-out”  place,  the  strange  horse  be- 
gan to  gain  a little  upon  his  antagonist,  and  at  this  moment 


428 


COURTSHIP. 


of  interest  and  excitement  to  all  parties  concerned,  it  looked 
as  if  the  deacon’s  horse  was  to  be  beaten,  when  suddenly 
from  behind  a board  fence  near  the  track  jumped  up  Dea- 
con R himself,  who  in  a very  loud  and  excited 

manner  screamed  out,  “Put  the  whip  to  him, Martin!  put 
the  whip  to  him,  I tell  you !”  Martin  was  perfectly  as- 
tounded and  almost  paralyzed  at  this  unexpected  appari- 
tion, but,  with  nervous  desperation,  he  made  several  vigor- 
ous and  well-timed  applications  of  his  whip,  which  caused 
the  horse  to  redouble  his  efforts  and  win  the  race  by  half  a 
length,  at  which  the  deacon,  in  the  excitement  of  the  mo- 
ment, took  off'  his  hat  and  gave  a lusty  cheer ; but,  instant- 
ly afterward  recollecting  himself,  and  considering  the  ludi- 
crous role  he  had  been  enacting  in  this  somewhat  farcical 
performance,  he  assumed  an  indignant  air,  and  approach- 
ing Martin,  who  was  holding  the  horse  in  great  trepidation, 
said,  “ Martin  Scott,  you  young  reprobate,  you  have  stolen 
my  horse,  sir,  and,  unless  you  instantly  lead  him  back  to  * 
the  stable,  and  give  him  a good  rubbing  down,  I’ll  report 
you  to  your  father,  sir !” 

When  young  Scott  arrived  at  the  age  of  sixteen  he  fell 
in  love  with  a young  lady  in  a neighboring  village,  and  re- 
ceived her  permission  to  pay  his  addresses ; but  his  father’s 
opinions  upon  the  subject,  being  somewhat  austere  and  dic- 
tatorial, did  not  accord  with  his  own,  and  compelled  him  to 
conduct  his  courtship  in  a clandestine  manner.  He  was  in 
the  habit  of  waiting  until  his  father  went  to  bed,  when  he 
would  take  a horse  from  the  stable,  pay  a visit  to  his  lady- 
love, and  return  home  before  daylight.  After  one  of  these 
weekly  visits,  he  had  just  put  his  horse  into  the  stable,  and 
had  made  some  little  noise  in  doing  soy  which  awakened  his 
father,  who  ran  out  toward  the  stable,  thinking  that  some 
person  was  attempting  to  steal  his  horse.  Martin  saw  him 
approaching,  and,  unable  to  elude  his  observation,  ran  into 


APPOINTED  ENSIGN. 


429 


a corn-house  near  by  and  ascended  a ladder  into  the  loft, 
with  the  old  man  close  upon  his  heels. 

It  was  dark  at  the  time,  and  he  hid  himself  in  one  corner 
of  the  loft ; but  his  father  groped  around  until  he  was  sat- 
isfied that  the  next  instant  he  would  be  in  his  grasp,  and 
he  saw  but  one  method  of  escaping  detection,  which  he  in- 
stantly resorted  to.  He  leaped  upon  the  poor  old  man,  and 
gave  him  a blow  which  knocked  him  down,  and  thus  se- 
cured an  opportunity  to  make  his  escape  to  the  house. 

The  old  man  soon  recovered  himself,  however,  and  called 
out,  “ Martin ! Martin ! come  here  quick ; there  are  robbers 
about,  and  one  of  them  has  knocked  me  down.”  Martin 
turned,  and,  running  back  to  the  corn-house,  aided  his  fa- 
ther for  a considerable  time  in  searching  for  the  supposed 
robber. 

As  he  was  plowing  in  the  field  one  day  during  the  year 
1814,  the  postmaster  of  the  village  brought  him  a letter 
marked  “ War  Department,  Adjutant  General’s  Office,”  and 
directed  to  Ensign  Martin  Scott,  on  opening  which 'he 
found  a commission  for  himself  as  ensign  in  the  United 
States  Army.  He  had  made  no  application  for  the  appoint- 
ment, and  its  being  conferred  upon  him  was  a mystery 
which  was  never  solved  to  the  day  of  his  death.  He  ac- 
cepted his  appointment,  and  forthwith  joined  his  company 
at  Sackett’s  Harbor. 

He  was  shortly  afterward  sent  to  the  Western  frontier, 
where  he  found  ample  scope  for  the  development  of  his 
proclivities  as  a sportsman. 

His  reputation  for  accurate  rifle  and  pistol  shooting  was 
well  deserved,  and  I am  not  aware  that  he  was  ever  ex- 
celled, if,  indeed,  he  was  ever  equaled  by  any  of  his  con- 
temporaries. 

One  of  his  performances  with  the  pistol,  which  I have 
often  heard  vouched  for  by  officers  who  had  witnessed  it, 


430 


TARGET  PRACTICE. 


and  which  appears  to  me  to  require  more  skill  in  the  use 
of  the  arm  than  any  other  feat  I have  heard  of,  was  in  tak- 
ing two  potatoes,  throwing  them  into  the  air  successively, 
and  putting  a pistol  ball  through  both  of  them  as  they 
crossed,  one  going  up  and  the  other  coming  down. 

Some  of  his  performances  in  rifle-shooting  I have  wit- 
nessed myself,  and  for  great  accuracy  I must  acknowledge 
that  they  exceed  any  thing  of  the  kind  I have  ever  before 
seen.  One  of  the  many  instances  where  I have  been  pres- 
ent at  his  shooting  will,  I presume,  suffice  to  illustrate  this. 

He  proposed  to  me,  upon  one  occasion,  that  we  should 
take  an  old-fashioned  United  States  yager  that  he  had,  and 
determine  which  could  load  and  fire  three  shots  in  the 
shortest  space  of  time,  and  make  the  best  target.  Accord- 
ingly, a playing-card,  with  a spot  or  bull’s-eye  in  the  cen- 
tre about  the  size  of  a dime,  was  attached  to  a log  of  wood, 
and  placed  at  seventy-five  yards  from  where  we  proposed 
to  stand.  Captain  Scott  then  took  the  rifle  uncharged,  with 
the  powder-flask  at  hand,  and  the  balls  and  patches  in  his 
mouth,  and  he  made  the  three  shots  “ off-hand”  in  one  min- 
ute and  twenty  seconds.  I then  myself  went  to  the  target, 
and  found  one  round  hole  directly  through  the  centre  of 
the  bull’s-eye.  I was  surprised  at  the  precision  of  the  shot, 
but  observed  to  the  captain  that  the  other  two  had  entirely 
missed  the  target.  He  shook  his  head  and  called  for  an 
axe,  when  we  split  the  log,  and  found  the  three  balls  in  one 
mass,  all  having  passed  through  the  same  round  aperture 
directly  in  the  centre  of  the  card. 

The  captain  was  also  a very  excellent  marksman  with  a 
bird-gun,  and,  although  I have  seen  him  fire  numerous 
shots,  I do  not  remember  ever  to  have  known  him  to  miss 
his  bird. 

At  a very  early  day,  but  a few  years  after  the  close  of 
the  war  in  1814,  he  was  attached  to  the  expedition  under 


EAELY  HABITS  OF  THE  OFFICERS. 


431 


the  command  of  General  Atkinson,  which  ascended  the 
Missouri  River  and  established  a military  post  at  Council 
Bluffs,  which  at  that  time  was  very  far  beyond  the  remotest 
border  settlements.  The  war  had  not  improved  the  morals 
of  the  army,  and  its  effects  were  still  seen  among  the  offi- 
cers, many  of  whom  were  addicted  to  cards  and  liquor,  and 
a man  who  did  not  participate  in  these  dissipated  pastimes 
was  considered  as  wanting  in  that  spirit  of  social  congeni- 
ality which,  according  to  their  code,  was  indispensable  to 
an  officer. 

Captain  Scott  had  never  in  his  life  drank  a glass  of  ar- 
dent spirits,  played  a game  of  cards,  or  used  tobacco  in  any 
form.  He  was  liberal  in  his  intercourse  with  his  brother 
officers,  but  was  exceedingly  parsimonious  in  his  own  per- 
sonal expenses,  and  took  good  care  of  his  money.  This 
was  not  in  accord  with  the  views  of  the  officers  around  him, 
and  they  soon  gave  vent  to  their  feelings  by  petty  slights 
and  annoyances,  and  by  a gradual  withdrawal  from  his  so- 
ciety. This  finally  culminated  by  all  the  officers,  with  three 
exceptions,  putting  him  in  Coventry.  He  submitted  to  their 
unjust  persecution  and  insults  as  long  as  possible,  but  at 
length  it  came  to  such  a pass  that  he  could  endure  it  no 
longer,  and  he  took  counsel  with  his  three  friends  as  to  the 
course  he  should  pursue.  They  were  unanimous  in  the  opin- 
ion that  there  were  but  two  alternatives  left  to  him : one 
was  to  throw  up  his  commission  and  leave  the  service  at 
once,  and  the  other  was  to  challenge  the  first  man  who  should 
insult  him.  He  determined  to  adopt  the  latter  course. 

The  officers  were  soon  apprised  of  what  had  been  decided 
upon,  and  as  Captain  Scott  was  a much  better  pistol-shot 
than  any  of  them,  they  did  not  feel  disposed  to  risk  an  en- 
counter against  such  odds. 

One  of  their  friends,  however,  who  was  then  stationed  at 
another  post,  was  a celebrated  shot,  and  had  brought  down 


432 


CURING  THE  CONSUMPTION. 


his  antagonist  in  several  duels.  They  dispatched  a messen- 
ger for  him,  and,  on  his  arrival,  he  took  the  first  opportuni- 
ty to  insult  Captain  Scott  at  the  mess-table,  and  a challenge 
immediately  ensued.  The  preliminaries  were  arranged  in 
due  form,  and  the  parties  came  upon  the  ground.  In  giv- 
ing me  the  history  of  this  affair,  Captain  Scott  said  that  he 
had  always  opposed  dueling  from  principle,  and  he  would 
not  have  believed  that  he  could,  under  any  circumstances, 
have  been  drawn  into  one,  but  here  he  was;  and  he  ac- 
knowledged that  he  was  very  considerably  agitated,  and 
had  determined  to  throw  away  his  shot  by  firing  into  the 
air,  when  he  heard  his  antagonist  remark  that  he  had  a 
very  disagreeable  job  on  hand  that  morning,  which  was  to 
shoot  a d — d Yankee.  This,  he  said,  roused  his  indigna- 
tion to  the  highest  pitch,  and  made  him  perfectly  cool  and 
collected,  and  he  firmly  resolved  to  punish  his  adversary. 

They  took  their  positions  and  fired : Captain  Scott  re- 
ceived a slight  flesh-wound,  but  his  adversary  fell  to  the 
ground,  shot  through  the  lungs.  He  was  carried  to  the 
hospital,  and  ultimately  recovered.  It  is  mentioned  as  a 
curious  circumstance  that  previous  to  this  duel  he  had  the 
consumption,  but  the  wound  he  received  is  supposed  to 
have  effected  a cure  of  that  disease,  and  he  lived  for  many 
years  afterward. 

At  the  next  meeting  of  the  officers  at  the  mess-table, 
Captain  Scott  took  occasion  to  inform  them  that  he  should 
in  future  hold  them  personally  responsible  for  any  and 
every  insult  offered  to  him.  They  did  not  seem  disposed 
to  contest  the  matter  any  farther,  and  he  was  soon  restored 
to  his  proper  social  position. 

The  invincible  determination  of  purpose  and  stubborn 
perseverance  with  which  he  contended  against  obstacles 
are  strikingly  shown  in  the  following  narrative,  which  I 
received  from  his  own  lips. 


EXPLORING  EXPEDITION. 


433 


Somewhere  about  the  year  1825  (I  am  not  certain  about 
the  precise  date),  the  Scientific  Exploring  Expedition,  con- 
ducted by  the  naturalist  Say,  was  organized  by  the  govern- 
ment, and  Captain  Scott,  then  stationed  at  Fort  Snelling, 
was  selected  by  the  Secretary  of  War  to  command  the  es- 
cort. It  so  happened  that  he  was  not  a favorite  with  his 
commanding  officer,  who  determined  that  another  officer 
should  be  assigned  to  this  desirable  duty.  Accordingly, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  scientific  gentlemen  at  the  fort,  he  in- 
formed them  that  he  could  not  furnish  their  escort  from  his 
weak  command,  but  that  he  would  send  Captain  Scott  to 
Prairie  du  Chien  for  the  necessary  force,  the  distance  be- 
tween the  two  places  by  river  being  something  like  three 
hundred  miles,  and  the  only  means  of  transit  at  that  early 
day  by  Mackinaw  boats.  With  these  the  captain  started, 
and,  as  he  had  favorable  winds,  he  made  a rapid  trip,  se- 
cured his  men,  and  returned  to  Fort  Snelling  in  an  almost 
unprecedentedly  brief  period ; but  what  was  his  antonish- 
ment,  on  his  arrival,  to  find  that  the  expedition  had  set  out 
immediately  after  his  departure  with  an  escort  from  the 
garrison  of  Fort  Snelling,  commanded  by  another  officer. 
The  expedition  had  been  off  about  two  weeks,  and  was 
then  probably  some  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles  on  its 
way  to  Pembina.  This,  however,  did  not  discourage  Scott, 
and  he  demanded  from  the  commanding  officer  the  priv- 
ilege of  following  and  overtaking  the  party.  This  could 
not  consistently  be  refused  him,  but  at  the  same  time  he 
was  only  allowed  an  escort  of  four  men,  with  one  old  horse, 
that  was  never  known  to  go  over  about  twenty  miles  with- 
out breaking  down,  to  transport  his  supplies.  With  this 
outfit  he  started.  As  he  had  anticipated,  the  horse  gave  out 
and  was  abandoned  the  first  day  out.  They  were  obliged 
to  pack  their  luggage  upon  their  backs,  and  in  this  manner 
continued  on  rapidly  day  after  day,  until  at  length  their 

20 


434 


BOTANY  BAY. 


provisions  were  all  exhausted  excepting  a few  biscuits, 
which  were  divided  equally.  No  game  was  seen  for  sev- 
eral days,  and  their  only  subsistence  for  a considerable 
time  was  confined  to  one  biscuit  per  man  daily.  Even 
these  were  finally  consumed,  and  for  two  days  they  had 
nothing.  They  wore  out  their  shoes,  and  became  so  lame 
that  it  was  with  difficulty  they  could  walk.  The  captain 
saw  that,  under  such  circumstances,  his  prospects  for  over- 
taking the  main  party  were  small.  He  therefore  ordered 
all  his  escort  to  turn  back  to  the  fort,  and  alone  pushed  for- 
' ward  again.  After  a few  days’  rapid  and  toilsome  march- 
ing, he  overtook  the  party  near  Pembina,  assumed  command 
of  the  escort,  and  retained  it  throughout  the  remainder  of 
the  expedition. 

For  several  years  after  the  establishment  of  the  post  of 
Fort  Snelling,  all  the  lumber  was  procured  by  the  labor  of 
the  troops,  and  it  had  been  the  practice  every  year  to  send 
an  officer  with  a detachment  of  men  to  Rum  River,  where 
they  passed  the  entire  winter  in  cutting  “saw-logs,”  and 
rafted  them  down  to  the  falls  in  the  spring.  This  service 
was  any  thing  but  agreeable  to  the  officers,  and  Rum  River 
was  designated  by  them  as  “Botany  Bay;”  and  some  of 
them  even  had  the  temerity  to  whisper  it  about  that,  by  a 
most  astonishing  coincidence,  whenever  an  officer  incurred 
the  displeasure  of  the  commanding  officer,  it  invariably  be- 
came his  next  detail  for  service  at  “ Botany  Bay.”  How- 
ever this  may  have  been,  it  is  quite  certain  that  Captain 
Scott  passed  the  following  winter  at  Rum  River. 

Although  Captain  Scott  possessed  his  firmness  of  nerve 
and  accuracy  of  sight  up  to  the  day  of  his  death,  yet  his 
qualities  as  a hunter  were  seriously  impaired  by  age. 

During  the  winter  of  1845-6,  while  General  Taylor’s 
army  occupied  Corpus  Christi,  Colonel  Garland,  Captains 
Scott,  McCall,  and  myself,  went  about  a hundred  miles  up 


SUCCESSFUL  HUNT. 


435 


the  Nueces  upon  a hunting  expedition.  Our  hunt,  after  we 
reached  the  ground,  lasted  four  days,  and  the  result  was 
we  bagged  twenty-seven  deer,  seventy-three  wild  turkeys, 
four  tiger-cats,  besides  quite  a number  of  geese  and  ducks, 
and  of  these  Captain  McCall  and  myself  killed  the  greater 
part.  Captain  Scott  only  killed  one  deer  and  a few  turkeys. 

I soon  perceived  that  he  considered  his  reputation  as 
somewhat  damaged  by  these  disparaging  results,  and,  as  we 
were  returning  to  Corpus  Christi,  he  remarked  to  me  that 
it  might  be  just  as  well  not  to  mention  to  the  officers  at 
camp  which  one  of  us  bagged  the  greatest  amount  of  game, 
as  this  would  not  probably  please  the  other  two  gentlemen. 
I replied  that  it  would  be  exceedingly  unbecoming  in  me 
to  boast  of  my  own  exploits,  therefore  I should,  of  course, 
say  nothing  upon  the  subject. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  encampment  with  the  extraordinary 
quantity  of  game,  the  officers  collected  around  us,  and  mani- 
fested a great  desire  to  ascertain  which  of  the  four  had  ex- 
celled in  the  hunt.  I made  an  evasive  answer,  stating  that 
we  had  not  been  particular  about  keeping  accurate  count, 
but  that  there  was  not  probably  much  difference.  The 
question  was  then  put  to  Captain  Scott,  who,  after  my  gen- 
erous reply,  thought  he  must  say  something  magnanimous 
in  return,  and  he  answered  that  he  was  not  altogether  cer- 
tain as  to  which  had  bagged  the  most  game,  but  of  one  thing 
he  was  quite  sure,  and  that  was  that  he  had  seen  a great 
many  deer-hunters  in  his  day,  but  that  he  had  never  met 
with  one  who  could  crawl , and  sneak , and  squirm  up  to  a 
deer  like  Marcy.  I appreciated  the  motive  which  dictated 
the  remark  fully,  but,  at  the  same  time,  I regarded  the  in- 
tended compliment  as  somewhat  equivocal  in  its  import. 

The  captain  was  not  upon  all  other  occasions  as  magnani- 
mous as  he  might  have  been  toward  those  who  attempted 
to  come  in  competition  with  him  as  marksmen  or  hunters. 


436 


TARGET-SHOOTING. 


While  at  Green  Bay  in  1833, 1 had  procured  a rifled  pis- 
tol, which  description  of  arm  had  only  been  in  use  a short 
time  then,  and  Captain  Scott,  haying  never  before  seen  one, 
was  incredulous  in  regard  to  my  assertions  as  to  its  per- 
formances. The  barrel  of  this  pistol  was  about  twelve 
inches  in  length,  and  would  throw  a ball  fifty  yards  with 
as  much  accuracy  as  a rifle.  Scott  did  not  believe  it,  how- 
ever, and  often  bantered  me  to  give  a specimen  of  its  pow- 
ers ; but,  not  feeling  disposed  to  subject  myself  to  the  ridi- 
cule of  this  celebrated  sportsman  by  incurring  the  risk  of 
making  a possible  failure  in  the  presence  of  spectators,  I de- 
clined, until  one  day  he  proposed  that  we  should  go  out 
alone  and  try  it,  to  which  proposition  I assented.  In  order 
fully  to  appreciate  the  sequel  of  our  target  excursion,  it 
must  be  remembered  that  the  captain  was  exceedingly  eco- 
nomical, and  estimated  a dollar  at  its  full  value.  He  had 
that  morning  treated  himself  to  a new  and  high-priced  pock- 
et-knife, with  which  he  cut  out  a piece  of  paper  about  four 
inches  square,  and  fastened  it  to  a board  by  sticking  his 
knife  directly  through  the  centre  of  it.  I made  a shot 
standing  fifty  yards  distant,  and  struck  the  lower  part  of 
the  paper.  He  expressed  some  astonishment  at  the  preci- 
sion of  the  shot,  but  gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  it  was  acci- 
dental, and  doubted  if  it  could  be  done  again.  I assured 
him  that  it  was  by  no  means  the  result  of  chance,  and  that, 
in  all  probability,  I should  make  a better  shot  the  next 
time ; indeed,  I added  that  he  must  not  be  surprised  if  I 
struck  his  new  pen-knife  (only  the  end  of  the  handle  was 
exposed).  He  replied,  “Never  mind  the  knife;  don’t  let 
that  give  you  the  slightest  uneasiness,  sir;  go  ahead  and 
make  your  shot ; I’ll  be  responsible  for  the  knife.”  Where- 
upon I raised  the  pistol  and  fired  again,  and  at  the  same  in- 

* stant  the  paper  fell  to  the  ground.  Upon  examination,  we 

• discovered  that  the  ball  had  hit  the  knife  in  the  end  of  the 


WONDERFUL  DOG. 


437 


handle,  and  split  it  into  at  least  a dozen  pieces.  Scott  made 
no  comments,  but,  looking  daggers  at  me,  abruptly  turned 
and  walked  off  to  his  quarters,  and  it  was  some  days  before 
he  received  me  into  favor  again. 

Captain  Scott  was  at  one  time,  while  stationed  at  Prairie 
du  Chien,  in  possession  of  a wonderfully  sagacious  dog,  a 
cross  of  the  setter  and  pointer.  I never  saw  the  animal 
myself,  but  several  of  the  officers  of  my  regiment  had  fre- 
quently witnessed  his  astonishing  performances,  and  those 
of  them  who  are  now  living  will  doubtless  vouch  for  the 
truth  of  what  I relate. 

The  captain  would,  for  example,  while  sitting  in  his  quar- 
ters at  the  fort,  with  the  dog  at  his  feet,  say  to  him,  “Mark, 
I want  you  to  go  over  to  the  island  and  ascertain  if  there 
are  any  woodcock  there,  and  come  back  and  tell  me.”  The 
dog  would  instantly  go  to  the  river,  swim  to  the  island, 
and,  after  having  hunted  it  over,  return,  and,  if  he  had  found 
birds,  run  up  to  his  master,  then  to  the  gun,  wag  his  tail, 
and  make  other  demonstrations  of  joy,  which  made  it  per- 
fectly apparent  that  he  had  been  successful.  Scott  would 
then  tell  the  dog  to  get  the  canoe  in  readiness,  and,  strange 
as  it  may  appear,  he  would  take  the  cushion  in  his  mouth, 
carry  it  to  the  river  bank  where  the  canoe  was  moored, 
place  it  upon  the  seat,  return  for  the  paddle,  carry  that  to 
the  canoe,  then  go  back  to  Scott,  and  look  up  in  his  face 
with  an  expression  which  indicated  that  all  was  ready. 

The  captain  had  at  the  same  time  another  dog,  which  he 
called  Turk.  These  dogs,  from  their  first  acquaintance, 
had  never  been  on  friendly  terms,  and  they  had  many  se- 
verely contested  encounters,  which  finally  resulted  in  Turk’s 
gaining  and  retaining  the  mastery.  Mark  was  emphatically 
a vanquished  dog,  and,  by  his  meek  and  submissive  demean- 
or in  the  presence  of  his  adversary,  he  admitted  as  much. 

Upon  one  occasion  Turk  had  gained  possession  of  a 

2 0* 


438 


STRATEGY. 


bonne  bouche  in  the  form  of  a beef’s  bone,  which  he  was 
quietly  enjoying  by  himself  upon  the  parade-ground,  when 
Mark  chanced  to  pass  that  way,  and  scented  the  choice  mor- 
sel. The  longing,  anxious  look  which  he  cast  toward  the 
bone,  as  he  circled  around  at  a respectable  distance,  told 
how  desirous  he  was  to.  participate  in  the  feast ; but  his  ex- 
perience had  taught  him  that  an  attempt  to  contend  with 
his  powerful  adversary  would  only  result  in  his  own  dis- 
comfiture. He  therefore  prudently  resolved  to  resort  to 
strategy  in  order  to  accomplish  his  ends.  Accordingly,  he 
ran  furiously  outside  the  stockade  inclosure  and  set  up  a 
tremendous  barking,  as  if  something  very  extraordinary 
had  occurred ; upon  which,  as  usual,  all  the  dogs  in  the  fort 
hurried  out  of  the  gates  to  see  what  was  the  matter,  and 
among  them  was  Turk,  who,  in  the  excitement  of  the  mo- 
ment, abandoned  his  bone.  As  soon  as  this  was  done,  Mark 
very  quietly  slipped  back,  seized  the  prize,  and  carried  it  to 
a hiding-place  where  he  could  enjoy  it  at  his  leisure. 

Mark  was  by  no  means  a dog  of  regular  habits,  and  would 
often  steal  away  from  home  and  pass  the  night  among  his 
canine  companions  of  the  opposite  sex.  For  this  he  was 
invariably  punished,  his  master  compelling  him  to  stand 
upon  his  hind  feet,  with  his  fore  paws  resting  against  the 
wall,  while  the  castigation  was  administered  with  a cow- 
hide. In  one  instance,  after  having  absented  himself  all 
night,  he  returned  home  with  a most  dejected  and  penitent 
air,  and,  seeing  his  master  looking  very  angry  at  him,  he 
immediately  went  to  the  wall,  placed  himself  in  the  posi- 
tion he  had  been  required  to  assume  when  he  received  his 
previous  punishments,  and  at  the  same  time  turned  his 
head  around  and  looked  at  Scott,  as  much  as  to  say  “I  am 
ready.” 

In  the  course  of  time  Mark  waxed  in  years,  and  was  no 
longer  able  to  endure  the  work  required  in  hunting,  and 


HUNTING  NOMENCLATURE. 


439 


Captain  Scott  took  him  home  to  Bennington  to  pass  the  re- 
mainder of  his  days  in  quiet  retirement,  and  here  he  con- 
tinued to  make  himself  useful  even  in  his  dotage  by  going 
to  the  pasture  every  night  and  driving  home  the  cows.  It 
certainly  appeared  as  if  this  animal  was  endowed  with 
something  beyond  mere  brute  instinct,  as  he  seemed  to 
comprehend  the  relations  existing  between  cause  and  ef- 
fect. 

Captain  Scott  was  so  very  fond  of  his  dogs*  that  I have 
known  him,  upon  the  death  of  a favorite  one,  to  walk  his 
room  in  great  apparent  distress  of  mind  during  the  entire 
night,  and  afterward  place  the  body  in  a coffin,  and,  with 
his  boy  Jack  leading  his  hunting-horse  draped  in  black,  fol- 
low it  to  the  grave,  and  bur}'  it  with  as  much  care  and  cer- 
emony as  if  it  had  been  a child. 

He  generally  kept  a pack  of  hounds,  and  would  occa- 
sionally take  out  his  friends  to  participate  in  a deer  or  fox 
drive ; but,  upon  these  occasions,  he  invariably  insisted  that 
every  one  should  conform  strictly  with  the  most  approved 
rules  of  the  chase.  He  was  himself  thoroughly  posted  in 
all  the  technicalities  of  sporting  lore,  and  he  lost  all  respect 
for  those  persons  who  misapplied  or  ridiculed  the  proper 
use  of  sporting  nomenclature.  Thus  he  never  failed  to  cor- 
rect a man  who  called  a line  of  geese  “ a flock  of  geese,”  a 
bevy  of  quails  ua  brood  of  quails ,”  a herd  of  elk  11  a gang 
of  elk,”  etc.  He  was  an  uncompromising  stickler  for  the 
correct  and  literal  application  of  sporting  language  upon  all 
occasions,  but  more  especially  when  in  the  field. 

This  peculiarity  of  his  was  forcibly  illustrated  while  our 
army  was  lying  at  Corpus  Christi  in  1846.  He  proposed 
that  we  should  take  his  hounds  and  go  out  into  a place 
called  the  Rincon,  where  the  large  jackass  rabbits  were 
abundant,  and  have  a drive.  Quite  a number  of  officers 
joined  the  party,  and  we  started  out  under  the  guidance  of 


440 


TALLY  HO. 


Captain  Scott,  who  was  the  acknowledged  master  of  the 
hunt. 

On  arriving  upon  the  ground  near  where  the  game  was 
supposed  to  be,  the  captain  stationed  the  gentlemen  around 
upon  the  skirts  of  an  extensive  chaparral  thicket,  and  pre- 
pared to  send  in  the  dogs  to  drive  out  the  rabbits.  He  gave 
his  last  instructions,  and  specially  enjoined  upon  every  one, 
on  the  instant  a rabbit  should  make  its  appearance,  to  give 
the  view  halloo  of  “ Tally  ho.”  How  it  so  happened  that 
among  the  officers  engaged  in  the  hunt  was  Captain  F. 

B n,  who  was  distinguished  for  his  propensities  as  a 

practical  joker,  and  never  was  known  to  let  an  opportunity 
escape  for  indulging  in  his  favorite  amusement. 

The  hounds  were  unleashed  and  taken  into  the  chapar- 
ral, and  in  a very  few  minutes  they  gave  tongue  most  vo- 
ciferously. All  were  waiting  upon  their  posts  with  eager 
anxiety  to  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the  game  as  it  emerged 
from  the  brush,  when  suddenly,  near  the  position  of  Captain 

B n,  bounded  out  a mule,  with  some  twenty  dogs  in  full 

cry  at  her  heels.  At  this  instant  of  excitement  we  heard  a 

prolonged  cry  from  the  stentorian  lungs  of  Captain  B n 

of  “ /Sally  whoa  ! Sally  whoa  ! Sally  whoa  !” 

The  appearance  of  the  terrified  mule,  and  the  ludicrous 
metamorphose  of  Captain  Scott’s  “ view  halloo,”  turned  the 
whole  thing  into  a farce,  which  brought  forth  irresistible 
peals  of  laughter  from  every  one  in  the  party  excepting 
Captain  Scott.  He  did  not  smile  ; on  the  contrary,  his  face 
flushed,  and  assumed  a most  indignant  expression.  He 

called  off  his  dogs,  and,  looking  daggers  at  Captain  B n, 

went  back  to  camp.  Immediately  after  this  he  sent  a chal- 
lenge to  Captain  B n,  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty 

that  their  friends  could  adjust  the  matter  to  his  satisfaction 
without  an  exchange  of  shots. 

With  the  exception  of  the  money  he  expended  in  horses, 


RETURN  HOME. 


441 


dogs,  and  guns,  which  were  always  of  the  very  best  descrip- 
tion, Captain  Scott,  as  I remarked  before,  was  very  econom- 
ical in  his  own  personal  expenses ; he,  however,  did  a great 
deal  toward  supporting  several  members  of  his  family  who 
were  not  very  well  to  do  in  the  world,  and  contributed 
liberally  toward  this  worthy  object  during  his  whole  life. 
Upon  one  occasion,  after  he  had  been  absent  in  the  Far 
West  for  quite  a number  of  years,  and  had  accumulated  a 
considerable  sum  of  money,  he  obtained  a furlough  for  the 
purpose  of  revisiting  his  friends  in  Bennington.  He  had 
left  there  a poor  farmer’s  boy,  and  he  resolved  to  make  a 
respectable  appearance  on  his  return.  He  owned  two  of 
the  finest  horses  that  I have  ever  seen,  and  a negro  boy 
for  whom  he  paid  five  dollars  a pound,  and  whom  he  sub- 
sequently set  free. 

Captain  Scott  was  seated  in  a beautiful  new  gig,  drawn 
by  his  magnificent  white  horse,  followed  by  Jack  dressed 
in  livery  as  an  outrider,  and  mounted  upon  his  thorough- 
bred horse  Dandy,  and  the  rear  of  the  cortege  was  brought 
up  by  some  twenty  full-blooded  dogs  of  various  breeds  and 
descriptions.  In  this  order  he  drove  through  the  quiet 
streets  of  Bennington  and  halted  at  the  village  inn,  where 
a great  crowd  of  inquisitive  citizens  were  soon  assembled, 
all  manifesting  the  keenest  anxiety  to  learn  the  name  of 
this  distinguished  stranger.  Ho  one,  however,  recognized 
him  as  he  entered  the  house  and  took  his  seat  by  the  win- 
dow. He  did  not  remain  long  before  he  saw  his  brother 
passing  with  a yoke  of  oxen,  whereupon  he  went  out  and 
accosted  him,  saying,  “You  have  a very  fine  pair  of  oxen 
there,  sir;  do  they  belong  to  you  ?”  His  brother,  not  recog- 
nizing him,  answered  that  they  were  very  good  cattle,  but 
belonged  to  one  of  his  neighbors,  and  that  he  was  not  able 
to  purchase  them. 

The  captain  then  inquired  what  they  could  be  had  for, 


442 


HAPPY  REUNION. 


and  when  his  brother  mentioned  the  sum,  he  took  out  his 
purse,  handed  him  the  amount,  telling  him  that  he  liked 
his  appearance  so  much  that  he  would  make  him  a present 
of  the  oxen.  This  most  extraordinary  liberality  astonished 
his  brother,  who  could  hardly  believe  it  possible  that  a man 
should  show  such  munificence  to  a stranger.  He,  however, 
took  the  money,  and  expressed  his  profound  gratitude  to 
his  benefactor. 

The  captain  then  asked  him  where  he  lived,  and  remark- 
ed that  he  would,  if  he  had  no  objections,  like  to  make  him 
a call,  to  which  his  brother  replied  that  he  rented  a small 
farm  near  by,  and  that  it  was  only  by  the  most  rigid  econ- 
omy and  industry  that  he  could  manage  to  support  his 
family  and  pay  his  rents,  but  that,  of  course,  he  would  be 
glad  to  receive  a visit  from  one  who  had  shown  such  gen- 
erosity to  him.  He  then  inquired  of  his  brother  what  price 
the  owner  put  upon  the  farm,  adding  that  he  believed  he 
should  like  to  present  him  with  that  also.  His  brother 
now  looked  attentively  at  him,  and  for  the  first  time  rec- 
ognized him.  They  went  home  together,  both  exceedingly 
happy. 

As  those  persons  who  are  not  familiar  with  the  history 
of  Captain  Scott  may  have  some  desire  to  know  what  be- 
came of  him,  I will  add,  for  their  information,  that  he  was 
killed  while  gallantly  leading  forward  his  command  in  that 
most  sanguinary  battle  of  the  Mexican  war,  “ Molino  del 
Rey.” 

Although,  like  the  most  of  us,  he  had  his  faults,  yet,  upon 
the  whole,  Captain  Martin  Scott  was  a pleasant  companion, 
an  honorable  man,  a kind  brother,  and  a gallant  soldier.  I 
most  sincerely  respect  his  memory,  and  with  all  my  heart 
say,  “Peace  be  to  his  ashes.” 


THE  END. 


* 


. 


J 


